•*- 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


COPYRIGHT 

I8g6 
BY  OSCAR  TSCHIRKY 


TX7I 
T27J 

AGRIC. 
LIBRARY 


Preface. 

In  placing  this  work  before  my  friends  at  The  Waldorf  and  the 
public  in  general,  it  is  with  the  feeling  that  I  am  giving  them  a  book 
illustrative  of  the  best  methods  of  preparing  food  at  the  present  day. 

The  collection  of  recipes  embodies  many  which  have  been  rendered 
easy  of  comprehension  and  arranged  in  such  a  manner  as  to  meet  the 
wants  of  all  — the  caterer  to  large  dinners  or  receptions,  as  well  as  the 
more  modest  entertainment  furnished  at  the  hearthside.  There  has  been 
more  particular  attention  devoted  to  the  requirements  of  the  latter  than 
to  those  of  the  former,  as,  in  the  writer's  opinion,  the  giver  of  a  small 
reception  has  been,  it  might  be  said,  rather  neglected  in  such  works  as 
have  come  before  the  notice  of  the  undersigned,  relative  to  cookery. 

The  title  selected  for  the  book  is:  THE  COOK  BOOK  BY  "OSCAR" 
OF  THE  WALDORF,  and  it  is  with  great  honor  dedicated  to  the  patrons 
of  The  Waldorf,  with  the  hope  that  they  will  receive  it  as  a  token  of 
my  high  esteem  and  sincere  appreciation  of  their  kindness  as  shown  to 
me  at  all  times. 

In  conclusion,  let  me  state  that  I  enter  the  arena  as  an  author 
with  the  hope  that  my  experience  may  prove  entertaining  to  my 
friends,  as  well  as  enable  them  to  prepare  a  Waldorf  Dinner  at  their 
own  homes. 

With  the  hope  that  my  friends  and  the  public  will  appreciate  the 
work  here  presented  to  them,  I  am 

Very   respectfully, 

OSCAR  TSCHIRKY, 

Maitre  d' Hotel,  The  Waldorf. 


M362152 


A  few  Suggestions  with  Regard  to  the 

Kitchen. 

In  the  construction  of  a  kitchen  range — that  is,  one  that  is  intended  for  cook- 
ing— it  is  necessary  to  consider  whether  it  is  advisable  or  not  to  erect  a  stove  for 
each  particular  purpose  or  process,  or  whether  a  stove  can  be  so  constructed  as  it 
will  enable  all  processes  to  be  carried  on  with  it  at  one  time,  or  independently.  The 
old-fashioned  open  stove,  with  boiler  and  oven  attached,  permitted  the  carrying  out 
of  more  processes  at  once  than  any  other,  such  as  roasting,  baking,  boiling,  stewing, 
frying,  and,  at  the  same  time,  keeping  up  a  supply  of  hot  water  for  any  purpose  for 
which  it  might  be  required.  But  for  the  perfection  of  modern  cooking  something 
further  is  required  in  the  way  of  a  hot  plate,  upon  which  the  contents  of  saucepans 
and  other  vessels  can  be  kept  simmering  or  boiling  fast  at  the  cook's  discretion;  and 
this  demand  is  not  met  with  in  the  close-fire  range.  The  evils  of  the  open  range 
may  be  described  as  very  great;  the  vessels  used  being  exposed  to  the  open  fire  be- 
come dirty  with  soot,  there  is  great  loss  of  heat,  the  kitchen  itself  receiving  more 
than  its  fair  share.  Then,  again,  it  is  difficult  on  an  open  range  to  modify  the  heat 
according  to  certain  requirements,  and  the  chimney  requires  sweeping  frequently. 
As  rapidly  as  improvements  are  made  in  this  country  in  stoves  and  ranges,  there 
would  be  some  foundation  for  hoping  that  sooner  or  later  this  would  be  the  most 
expert  of  cooking  countries,  for  in  no  other  part  of  the  world  have  such  vast  strides 
been  made,  or  have  such  clever  inventions  been  placed  before  the  public  as  in  the  United 
States  during  the  past  quarter  of  a  century.  The  excellence  of  style  and  perfection 
of  use  have  created  for  them  a  demand  in  all  civilized  portions  of  the  globe.  In 
France,  which  may  be  considered  the  queen  of  cooking  countries,  American  and 
British  stoves  are  preferred  to  all  others,  not  only  on  account  of  their  superior  manu- 
facture and  metal,  but  also  because  they  do  their  work  best. 

A  very  important  piece  of  furniture  is  the  kitchen  table.  There  are  many  dresser 
boards,  shelves  and  flaps,  but  they  are  useless  to  the  cook  as  compared  with  a  good 
kitchen  table.  It  should  be  made  of  stout  deal,  as  large  as  the  size  of  the  kitchen 
will  permit,  fitted  with  a  convenient  drawer  for  holding  knives,  forks,  spoons,  clean 
kitchen  cloths,  and  other  necessaries.  Not  only  should  the  table  be  the  most  prominent 
of  the  furniture  in  the  kitchen,  to  which  all  other  fittings  must  play  a  supplementary 
part,  but  it  should  be  kept  at  all  times  ready  for  immediate  use,  uncovered  and  scru- 
pulously clean.  The  practice  of  using  the  table  for  a  chopping-board,  trimming- 


ii  SUGGESTIONS. 

board,  pot-board,  or  for  making  paste,  cannot  be  too  carefully  avoided.  In  such 
cases  the  surface  soon  becomes  scratched  and  unsightly. 

A  well-ventilated  kitchen  is  a  pleasure  to  the  cook  and  conducive  to  the  health  of 
all  concerned  in  or  about  it.  Open  windows  are  the  best  form  of  ventilators.  When 
the  windows  are  opened,  they  should  be  pulled  down  from  the  top;  but  as  some 
kitchen  windows  open  from  pantries  or  entries  or  passages,  some  form  of  independent 
ventilation  should  be  adopted. 

A  very  practical  writer  on  kitchen  management  observes  :  "  I  would  mention 
the  extreme  importance  of  including  among  the  list  of  household  requisites  a  pair  of 
scales  and  a  set  of  weights.  There  is  no  check  so  effectual  against  short  weights  as 
the  practice  of  weighing.  With  the  butcher's  meats  this  is  particularly  important, 
joints  often  being  unaccountably  changed,  from  one  being  so  like  another,  except  in 
weight.  Aside  from  this,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  cook  meat  accurately  unless  it  is 
previously  weighed  and  timed.  A  pair  of  scales  and  a  set  of  weights,  large  enough 
for  all  domestic  purposes,  can  be  bought  for  three  or  four  dollars,  and  I  have  no  hesi- 
tation in  saying  that  they  will  defray  their  cost  in  less  than  a  year's  use." 

There  should  be  no  such  thing  as  waste  in  a  well-ordered  kitchen.  The  term  is 
often  misapplied  to  the  refuse  that  results  from  the  preparation  of  vegetables  and 
other  things  for  cooking.  But  the  term  "  kitchen  waste  "  is  also  oftentimes  more 
correctly  applied  than  intended  by  the  cook  who  uses  it;  that  is,  if  the  legitimate 
meaning  is  to  be  accepted,  of  anything  spoiled,  destroyed  or  thrown  away.  Waste  is 
the  outcome  of  extravagance,  hence  it  is  advisable  for  those  in  authority  carefully  to 
calculate  the  return  from  the  foods  supplied  for  kitchen  use.  Kitchen  cloths  are  often 
objects  of  indiscriminate  use.  Dresser  cloths,  tea  cloths  and  dusters,  pudding-cloths 
and  window  rags  are  frequently  misappropriated,  thus  leading  to  waste.  Remnants 
of  food  and  drippings  are  invariably  wasted  by  an  untidy  servant.  Scraps  of  meat, 
bones  and  shanks  can  be  put  into  the  stockpot,  which  should  be  found  in  every 
kitchen.  Something  may  be  added  to  the  stockpot  daily  and  this  prevents,  by  using 
up,  accumulations  that  otherwise  would  be  troublesome  and  offensive.  Small  quan- 
tities of  cold  vegetables — potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  cauliflower,  spinach,  etc. — are 
used  for  thickening  and  flavoring  plain  soups,  and  cold  cabbage  and  potatoes  can  be 
fried  for  the  kitchen  dinner.  Dripping,  melted  down  and  put  into  jars,  keeps  well, 
and  is  very  useful.  The  fat  skimmed  off  cold  broth  is  good  for  adding  to  vegetables 
when  mashed,  and  for  other  purposes.  Strong  paper  and  wooden  skewers  are  handy 
at  any  time;  but  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  heaps  of  grocers'  and  other  papers  are 
often  the  cause  of  cockroaches  swarming  in  the  kitchen.  When  there  is  no  use  at 
home  for  so-called  "kitchen  waste,"  it  should  be  carefully  sorted,  and  either  sold  or 
given  away. 

As  it  would  be  impossible  to  organize  a  system  of  keeping  kitchen  accounts  that 
would  be  found  perfect  enough  to  meet  all  purposes,  something  must  be  left  to  the 
cook  and  the  master,  each  of  whom  will  prove  his  ability  to  deal  with  the  subject  by 


SUGGESTIONS.  Hi 

formulating  a  system  to  meet  his  own  requirements,  based  upon  a  few  suggestions  we  are 
able  to  make  for  general  guidance.  We  here  have  to  deal  with  accounts,  and  not 
with  losses  from  indiscreet  marketing  or  bad  cooking;  these  matters  have  to  be  treated 
on  their  own  merits. 

Every  cook  should  have  an  order  book,  with  counterfoils,  upon  which  an  exact 
copy  of  the  order  issued  should  be  taken.  With  each  parcel  of  goods,  care  should 
be  taken  to  receive  an  invoice,  and  no  goods  should  be  received  without  one.  The 
invoice  should  coincide  with  the  counterfoils  of  the  order  book,  and  be  marked  with 
the  weight  and  measure  and  price  of  each  article.  After  the  weights  and  measures 
have  been  corroborated  by  actual  weighing  and  measuring,  which  is  so  often  neglected, 
and  the  price  is  ascertained  to  be  correct,  according  to  the  markets,  the  invoice  is 
to  be  filed  for  future  reference,  or,  where  a  kitchen  clerk  is  kept,  it  may  be  entered 
up  fully  in  the  invoice  book  kept  for  the  purpose.  This  is  your  check  upon  the  trades- 
man, whose  petty  defalcations  are  not  in  all  cases  a  fable.  When  once  it  is  under- 
stood that  the  goods  are  weighed  and  measured  when  received,  the  necessity  for 
it  will  disappear;  but  the  system  should  not  be  relaxed,  for  all  that.  Instead  of  an 
order  form,  books  are  sometimes  used,  in  which  the  order  is  written  and  signed  and 
filled  up  with  prices  and  quantities  by  the  tradesmen,  and  returned  with  the  goods. 
This  system  saves  much  writing,  but  it  is  open  to  this  objection,  the  book  mjght  be 
lost,  and  then  the  cook  would  have  no  existing  check  upon  the  account  of  the  trades- 
man. 

The  cook  should  also  keep  a  journal  or  diary — that  is  to  say,  a  book  in  which 
can  be  jotted  down  at  any  moment  circumstances  worthy  of  note,  especially  such  as 
cash  paid  out  or  received  for  kitchen  purposes,  orders  received  and  executed,  memo- 
randa for  a  future  day,  and  notes  of  new  ideas.  Besides  this  there  should  be  an  ac- 
count or  cash  book  in  which  tradesmen's  bills,  wages  and  cash  transactions  generally 
are  entered;  a  petty  cash  book  in  which  small  sums  under  a  certain  amount  can  be 
quickly  entered  without  reference  to  the  account  book,  and  a  slate  hung  up  in  a 
convenient  spot. 

Cooks  in  large  kitchens  have  a  style  of  bookkeeping  convenient  to  themselves, 
as  also  have  proprietors  and  managers  of  hotels  ;  but  the  small  householder  is  often  the 
victim  of  the  fraudulent  tradesman,  because  the  cook  is  not  expected  to  keep  accounts, 
and  the  mistress  is  too  indolent  or  careless  to  do  so.  If  the  amount  of  money 
wasted  yearly  could  be  calculated,  it  is  certain  that  the  total  would  be  astonishing. 

Every  good  housekeeper  will  have  a  room  in  which  stores  can  be  kept  under 
lock  and  key.  Groceries  should  always,  if  possible,  be  bought  in  quantity,  and  it 
is  well  to  remember  that  at  certain  times  of  the  year,  some  goods  are  cheaper  than 
at  others;  all  these  details  should  be  carefully  noted,  and  a  book  kept  to  enter  dates 
of  purchase,  quantities  and  prices  paid. 

A  dry  room  should  be  chosen  for  keeping  stores,  and  this  should  be  amply 
fitted  with  drawers,  shelves  and  nails  or  hooks.  There  should  be  earthenware  jars 


iv  SUGGESTIONS. 

for  sugar,  tins  for  tea,  coffee,  biscuits  and  loaf-sugar,  and  a  net  for  lemons.  Jams, 
pickles,  and  preserves  should  be  kept  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  room.  Soap  should 
be  cut  up  and  stood  with  spaces  between  the  pieces,  being  turned  at  regular  intervals 
of  time.  Starch  must  be  kept  very  dry.  Rice,  tapioca  and  sago  must  be  kept  in 
covered  vessels  or  insects  will  get  into  them.  Flour  is  usually  kept  in  the  pantry  in 
a  flour  box  Onions,  shallots,  leaks,  etc.,  should  not  be  kept  in  a  storeroom  for  ob- 
vious reasons.  Dried  herbs  in  separate  bags  may  be  conveniently  suspended  from 
the  ceiling  or  walls.  Apples  must  be  stored  in  a  near-by  room,  etc. 


Menus,  or  Bills  of  Fare. 

Menus  are  prepared  for  breakfasts,  luncheons,  dinners  and  suppers,  but  the 
dinner  menu  is  of  the  greatest  importance.  The  menus  or  bills  of  fare  are  generally 
selected  a  few  days  in  advance,  in  order  that  the  necessary  provisions  may  be  pur- 
chased, and  that  there  may  be  ample  time  to  prepare  everything  necessary,  thereby 
avoiding  much  confusion. 

The  menu  should  be  strictly  followed  in  every  case.  If  the  dinner  is  to  include 
ladies,  it  should  be  of  light,  fancy  dishes;  but,  on  the  contrary,  if  intended  for  gentle- 
men alone,  it  should  be  more  substantial  and  at  the  same  time  shorter. 

The  color  of  the  various  meats  and  sauces  should  be  as  different  from  each  other 
as  possible,  from  one  course  to  another,  offering  all  the  foods  in  their  respective  sea- 
sons, and  have  the  early  products  of  the  finest  quality  (See  Table  of  Supplies,  Page 
xv),  and  only  use  preserved  articles  when  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  others 

Oysters,  as  a  rule,  are  always  served  at  the  beginning  of  a  dinner,  though  they  are 
used  only  in  such  months  of  the  year  in  which  the  letter  "r"  occurs,  such  as  January, 
February,  March,  April,  September,  October,  November  and  December,  and  little 
neck  clams  are  used  in  their  stead. 

After  the  oysters,  come  the  soups.  If  two  soups  are  to  be  served,  select  one 
clear  and  one  thick;  but  if  one  is  to  be  used,  give  the  preference  to  the  clear 
soup. 

Hot  hors  d'ceuvre  generally  consist  of  timbales,  croustades,  palmettes,  mousse- 
lines,  bouchees,  etc.  Cold  side  dishes  are  served  with  the  same  course,  such  as  olives, 
radishes,  canapes,  caviar,  anchovies,  etc. 

The  fish,  if  it  is  boiled  or  fried,  should  have  potatoes  served  with  it;  if  broiled  or 
cooked  in  any  fancy  manner,  serve  cucumber  salad  with  it. 

If  two  entrees  are  chosen  in  a  dinner,  the  first  entree  should  be  made  the  light- 
est of  the  two,  and  they  should  be  made  in  a  fancy  way,  so  as  to  avoid  any  carving. 
Terrapin,  oysters,  crabs,  lobsters,  shrimps  and  frogs  are  allowable  as  entrees,  especially 
during  Lent. 

The  roasts  or  solid  joints  are  composed  of  saddles  of  either  veal,  mutton,  lamb, 
venison  or  antelope,  or  beef  tenderloins.  Also,  turkey,  goose,  duck,  capon,  etc,,  may 
be  served,  accompanied  by  one  or  two  vegetables. 

After  the  roasts  and  vegetables,  and  before  the  game,  a  punch  or  sherbet  is 
always  served,  but  should  not  be  given  an  extra  heading  on  the  menu,  simply  placing 
them  on  a  line  by  themselves. 

Games  are  served  immediately  following  the  sherbet ;  a  roast  usually  being  pre- 


vi  MENUS. 

ferred  for  dinner,  but  poultry  may  be  served  instead,  such  as  turkey,  capon,  duck, 
squabs,  etc. 

Cold  dishes  are  served  after  the  game,  with  a  salad.  If  no  cold  dishes  are  served 
with  the  dinner,  the  salad  should  be  served  with  the  game. 

Hot  and  cold  sweet  dishes  are  served  after  the  game,  and  consist  of  puddings, 
crusts,  fritters,  pancakes,  omelets  and  soufflees,  the  cold  and  hot  sweet  dishes  forming 
a  separate  course  by  themselves.  The  cold  dishes  are  composed  usually  of  jellies, 
bavarois,  creams,  blancmanges,  macedoines,  charlottes,  etc. 

After  the  sweet  dishes,  comes  the  dessert,  consisting  of  cheese,  fresh  fruits,  pre- 
served fruits,  jams,  dried  fruits,  candied  fruits,  bonbons,  mottoes,  frozen  puddings, 
plombieres,  ices,  ice-cream  and  fancy  cakes. 

Coffee. — Turkish  or  French  coffee  is  usually  served,  and  is  the  last  article  upon 
the  menu. 

The  Serving  of  Wines  and  Cordials: 

With  Oysters: — (Sauterne)  Chateau  Rieussec,  1878. 
With  the  Soup: — (Sherry)  Amontillado  Passado. 
With  Fish:—  (Rhine  Wine) Schloss  Vollradser,  1892. 
With  Entrees: — (Claret)  Chateau  Marbuzet,  1881. 
With  Roasts: — Champagne. 

Iced    Punches  and  Sherbets. 

With  Game: — (Burgundy)  Romance  Conti,  1892. 

With  Cold  Dishes: — Champagne. 

With  Hot  and  Cold  Sweet  Dishes: — Champagne. 

With  Dessert  or  Cheese: — (Port  Wine)   Duque,  Very  Old 

With  Coffee: — Liquors. 


Seasons. 


Almost  every  kind  of  food  has  its  particular  season — that  is,  a  period  of  the 
year  when  it  is  in  its  prime.  Produced  out  of  season  they  may  bring  higher  prices, 
but,  however  grateful  they  may  be  to  the  gourmet,  there  are  few  foods  that  do  not 
lose  flavor  by  being  forced.  A  large  variety  of  foods  are  in  season  the  year  round, 
but  this  does  not  apply  to  the  majority.  The  following  list  may  be  found  of  some 
use  to  the  cook,  although  the  best  guide  as  to  what  is  in  season  is  to  visit  the 
markets,  remembering  always  that  when  foods  are  cheapest  and  most  plentiful  they 
are  most  frequently  prime;  when  expensive  they  are  generally  out  of  season.  It  may 
be  taken  for  granted  then,  that  when  dear  they  are  scarce,  or  when  cheap  they  are 
plentiful,  but  their  high  price  does  not  necessarily  improve  their  quality. 


Angel, 

Bass — Black,       i 

Sea, 

Striped,    . 

Lake, 
Blackfish, 
Bluefish, 
Bonito,    . 
Butterfish, 
Carp — Common, 

German, 
Codfish,  . 
Eels,  .    . 

Flounders, 
Frost  Fish,    . 
Grouper, 
Haddock, 
Halibut, 
Herring, 
Kingfish, 
Lafayette, 
Lamprey, 
Mackerel — Fresh, 

Spanish, 
Mullet, 
Muscallonge, 
Perch, 


Fish. 


July   1st  to  September   ist. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 

June   ist  to  January   1st. 

April   ist  to  November   ist. 

May   ist  to  November  ist. 

June   ist  to  November   ist. 

October   ist  to  May   ist. 

July  1 5th  to  November  1st. 

October   ist  to  May   ist. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 

October  i$th  to  April  ist. 

November  I5th  to  April  ist. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 

October  ist  to  May  ist. 

May  ist  to  November  ist. 

August  1 5th  to  November  I5th. 

April   ist  to  June   ist. 

April   ist  to  October   ist. 

April   1 5th  to  October   I5th. 

June  ist  to  November  ist. 

June  ist  to  January  ist. 

September  ist  to  June  ist. 


vn 


Vlll 


SEASONS. 


Pike  Perch, 
Pike  or  Pickerel, 

Pompano, 

Porgies,  , 
Red  Snapper, 
Salmon — Kennebec, 

Oregon, 
Salmon  Trout, 
Shad  and  Roe,     . 
Sheepshead, 
Skate, 
Smelts, 
Sole,  English, 
Spot  Fish, 
Sturgeon,  .   : 

Trout — Brook, 

Wild,      , 
Turbot — American, 

English, 
Weakfish, 
Whitebait, 
Whitefish,       . 


September  ist  to  May  ist. 
June  ist  to  January  ist. 

SMay  ist  to  August  ist,  and 
November  I5th  to  January  ist. 
June  1 5th  to  October  i5th. 
October  ist  to  April  ist. 
June  ist  to  October  ist. 
October   ist  to  June   ist. 
October   ist  to  April    ist. 
January  ist  to  June  ist. 
June  1 5th  to  November  I5t 
September  ist  to  July  ist. 
August  1 5th  to  April  I5th. 
November  ist  to  May  ist. 
August  ist  to  June  ist. 
June  ist  to  October  I5tn. 
April  ist  to  September  ist. 
April  ist  to  September  ist. 
January  ist  to  July  I5th. 
January  ist  to  April  ist. 
May  1 5th  to  October  I  5th. 
May  ist  to  April  ist. 
November  1st  to  March  ist. 


Shell  Fish. 


Clams — Hard, 
Soft, 

Crabs — Hard, 
Soft, 

Crawfish, 

Lobsters, 

Mussels, 

Oysters, 

Scallops, 

Shrimps, 


All  the  year. 
May  ist  to  October  I  5th. 
All  the  year. 

May  ist  to  October  I5th. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
All  the  year. 
May  ist  to  October  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  I5th  to  April  ist. 
j  March  I5th  to  June  ist,  and 
I  September  1 5th  to  October  1 5th. 


Miscellaneous. 


Codfish — Tongues, 

Crabs,  Oyster, 

Frogs, 

Milts, 

Terrapin, 

Turtle — Green, 

Prawns,   . 


October  ist  to  June  ist. 

October  ist  to  June  ist. 

All  the  year,  but  June  ist  to  November  ist. 

All  the  year. 

November  ist  to  June  ist. 

All  the  year. 

June  ist  to  November  ist. 


SEASONS.  ix 


Salt  Fish. 

Anchovies,     ,  .  .  .  All  the  year. 

Codfish,  dried,     .  .  .  .All  the  year. 

Herring,          .  .  .  All  the  year 

Herring — Pickled,  .  .  .       All  the  year. 

Mackerel,       .  .All  the  year. 

Prawns,   .  .  .  September  1st  to  April  ist. 

Salmon,  ,  .  .  .  All  the  year. 


Smoked  Fish. 

Haddock Smokedor  )  October  Ist  to  A    n  Ist 

Finnan  Haddie      } 

Halibut  —  Smoked,   .              .              .  October  ist  to  April  ist. 

Herring — Smoked,          .              .              .  All  the  year. 

Bloaters,                 .              .  October  ist  to  May  ist. 

Kippered,      .              .              .  October  ist  to  May  1st. 

Mackerel,       .              .              ,              .  October  ist  to  May  ist. 

Salmon,  .....  All  the  year. 

Shad,               .              .              .              .  October  ist  to  May  ist. 

Sturgeon,              .'.            .              .              .  October  ist  to  May  ist. 

Whitefish,      .             .             .             .  October  1st  to  May  ist. 


Poultry. 

Capon.      .....  December  ist  to  August  ist. 

Chicken  to  Broil,  I  ^  lb.,      .  .  All  the  year. 

Saute.  2  y±  Ibs.     .  .  .  All  the  year. 

Roast,  3  Ibs.,  .  .  All  the  year. 

Winter,  4  Ibs.,  .  .  .  All  the  year. 

Duck — Mongrel,        .  .  .  September  1st  to  May  1st. 

Tame,     ....  May  ist  to  December  ist. 

Duckling,       ....  May  ist  to  December  ist. 

Fowl,       .....  All  the  year. 

Geese,  *  .  .  .  All  the  year. 

Guinea  Fowl,       .  .  .  .  All  the  year 

Peacock,         ....  All  the  year. 

Pigeon,    .....  All  the  year. 

Pigeon,  stall  fed,         . ,.,          ,  .  All  the  year. 

Pullet,       .  .  .  .  .All  the  year. 

Squab,  .  .  .  .  All  the  year. 

Turkey,  >  ..  .  .  .  All  the  year. 

E.  R.  I.,          ,  .  .  All  the  year;  best  in  September  to  March. 

Spring,     .  .  .  All  the  year;  best  September  I  to  Dec.  I. 

Suckling  Pig,  ...  All  the  year. 


SEASONS. 


Game. 


Antelope  and  Venison,    . 

Bear, 

Doe  Birds,         .  . 

Doe  Lark, 

Doe  Rail  Chopper,  or  Sora, 

Doe  Reed  Birds, 

Doe  Rice  Birds, 

Doe  Small  Birds, 

Buffalo, 

Duck,  all  kinds, 

Black  Head, 

Ruddy  Duck, 

Canvas  Back. 

Mallard, 

Red  Head, 

Teal,  Blue  Wing, 

Green, 

Widgeon, 

Wood, 
Geese  Brant, 

Wild, 
Grouse,  or  Prairie  Hen, 

Spruce, 
Hare — American, 

English, 
Partridge, 
Pheasants, 

Pigeons,          .  f . 

Plovers — Grass, 
Golden, 

Yellow  Legs,  . 
Ptarmigans,   . 
Quail,      .  .          l$jpd 

Rabbits, 
Robins,    . 
Snipe — Curlew, 

English, 

Jersey, 

Sand, 

Squabs,  wild, 
Squirrel,  .  . 

Turkey,  wild, 
Woodcock, 


August  1 5th  to  November  I5th. 
November  ist  to  February  ist. 
May  ist  to  September  ist. 
October  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  1st. 

September  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  ist  to  April  1st. 
September  1st  to  April  1st. 
November  ist  to  February  ist. 
September  1st  to  May  ist. 
September  1st  to  May  1st. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  ist  lo  May  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  1st  to  May  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  1st  to  May  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
September  ist  to  May  ist. 
August  i  5th  to  February  ist. 
September  ist  to  January  1st. 
November  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  ist  to  March  ist. 
August  i  5th  to  February  1st. 
October  ist  to  February  1st. 
j  March  ist  to  July  ist,  and 
\  September  ist  to  December  ist. 
September  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  1st  to  January  ist. 
February  ist  to  May  ist. 
November  ist  to  February  ist. 
November  ist  to  January  1st. 
(Law  against  selling.) 
September  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  ist  to  January  1st. 
September  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  ist  to  January  ist. 
September  ist  to  January  ist. 
August  ist  to  February  1st. 
November  ist  to  May  ist. 
August  1 5th  to  February  ist. 


SEASONS. 


XI 


Meat. 


Beef, 

Kid, 

Lamb — Spring, 

Yearling, 
Mutton, 

Pig, 
Veal, 


All  the  year;  best  Nov.  1st  to  March  ist. 

March  ist  to  September  ist. 

January  ist  to  July  ist. 

All  the  year;  best  Aug.  ist  to  Nov.  ist. 

All  the  year;  best  Nov.  ist  to  April  ist. 

All  the  year;  best  Oct.  1st  to  April  ist. 

All  the  year;  best  Nov.  ist  to  July  ist. 


Vegetables. 


Artichoke, 

Jerusalem,  '. 

Asparagus — Hot  House, 
Outdoor, 
Green, 
Tips, 
White, 
Beans — Broad, 

Lima, 

String,     .  , 

Wax  and  Butter, 
Beets,  .  .  , 

Brussels  Sprouts, 
Cabbage — Green  Kale, 
Red, 
Savoy, 

%  White, 

Cardon,  .  .  . 

Carrots,   . 
Cauliflower,    . 
Celery  Knobs — Celeriac, 

Soup, 

Corn,       .  .  .    ' 

Cranberries,  . 
Cucumbers, 

Hot  House, 
Small  Pickles, 
Egg  Plant,     . 
Garlic — Dry, 
Herbs — Basil, 

Bay  Leaves,  dry, 
Burnet,          .  - 
Chervil, 

Hot  House. 
Chives, 

Hot  House, 


All  the  year.      (From  Europe). 

October  ist  to  May  ist. 

January  ist  to  February  I5th. 

February  I  5th  to  July  ist. 

February  I  5th  to  July  ist. 

February  I5th  to  July  ist. 

February  I  5th  to  July  1st. 

August  ist  to  October  I5th. 

August  ist  to  November  ist. 

All  the  year. 

February  ist  to  November  I5th. 

All  the  year;  new  in  April. 

November  ist  to  March  1 5th. 

January  ist  to  May  ist. 

August  1 5th  to  May  ist. 

August  i  5th  to  May  ist. 

All  the  year;  new  in  February. 

January  1st  to  March  ist. 

All  the  year;  new  in  April. 

All  the  year. 

July  1 5th  to  May  ist. 

All  the  year. 

June  1 5th  to  September  1st. 

October  ist  to  May  ist. 

All  the  year. 

October  1st  to  July  ist. 

August  1 5th  to  October  I5th. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year;  new  in  July. 

August  ist  to  November  ist. 

All  the  year. 

June  ist  to  October  1st. 

All  the  year. 

October  ist  to  June  ist. 

All  the  year. 

October  ist  to  June  1st. 


Xll 


SEASONS. 


Herbs — Fennel, 

Marjoram, 

Mint, 

Hot  House, 

Parsley, 

Rosemary, 

Savory, 

Tarragon, 

Hot  House, 

Thyme, 
Hops, 
Kohl  Rabi, 
Leeks, 
Mushrooms — Cultivated, 

Field,  . 

Girolles,    . 
Morils, 

Okra  or  Gombo, 

Onions,  .  .  .'. 

Bermuda,  . 

Small,  .  , 

Oyster  Plant.       .  , 

Parsnips,         .  . 

Peas — South,       .  .  i  ' 

Long  Island,  . 
Peppers,  .  , 

From  the  South, 
Potatoes,  . 

From  South, 

Long  Island, 

Bermuda, 

Sweet,      .  , 

Pumpkins,      .  ..  ', 

Radishes — Black,  » 

Horse, 

Red, 

White  or  Gray,  , 

Rhubarb, 
Salad — Monk's  Beard, 

Celery, 

Chicory, 

Fetticus,  . 

Dandelion, 

Escarolle, 

Lettuce, 

Romaine, 

Watercress, 
Shallots, 


August  ist  to  November  1st. 

August  ist  to  November  ist. 

All  the  year. 

October  ist  to  June  ist. 

All  the  year. 

August  ist  to  November  ist. 

August  ist  to  November  ist. 

All  the  year. 

October  ist  to  June  ist. 

August  ist  to  November  ist. 

May  i  5th  to  June  I5th. 

July  ist  to  December  1st. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 

j  April  ist  to  July  ist,  and  from 

|  September  ist  to  December  ist. 

September  ist  to  November  I5th. 

September  1st  to  November  I5th. 

{All  the  year  from    South;    December 
ist  to  July  ist. 
All  the  year. 
January  I  5th  to  July  1 5th. 
July  ist  to  June  ist. 
August  ist  to  June  ist. 
August  ist  to  June  ist. 
January  ist  to  July  ist. 
July  ist  to  November  ist. 
All  the  year. 
January   ist  to  June  ist. 
All  the  year. 
April. 

July   ist  to  August   1 5th. 
January   I5th  to  July   ist. 
August   ist  to  May   1st. 
September   ist  to  February    1 5th. 
April   ist  to  January   ist. 
All  the  year, 
All  the  year. 

April  1 5th  to  November   i5th. 
February  ist  to  July   ist. 
December  ist  to  April   ist. 
August   ist  to  April   ist. 
July  ist  to  April  ist. 
February    ist  to  May   ist. 
December   ist  to  June   ist. 
August   ist  to  April  ist. 
All  the  year. 
May  ist  to  December  ist. 
All  the  year. 
All  the  year;    new  in  July. 


SEASONS. 


xni 


Sorrel, 

Hot  House, 
Spinach, 

Squash — Summer  White, 
Yellow, 

Winter  Hubbard, 

Marron, 
Tomatoes,  .  . 

From  South, 

Hot  House,  . 

Turnip — -Rutabaga, 

Teltow,     .  . 

White, 


All  the  year. 

November  1st  to  June  ist. 

All  the  year. 

July  ist  to  October  I  5th. 

July  ist  to  October  I5th. 

September   ist  to  March   I5th. 

September  ist  to  March    I5th. 

All  the  year. 

March   1st  to  August   1st. 

November   ist  to  March  ist. 

June  ist  to  May  ist. 

October  ist  to  January  ist. 

All  the  year;  new  in  June,  July,  August, 
and  September. 


Fruit. 


Alligator  Pears, 

Apples,  .  '   . 

Apricots,  .  . 

Bananas,       -'' •  .'- 

Barberries, 

Blackberries, 

Cherries, 

Chestnuts, 

Cocoanuts,  , 

Currants  (Black  and  Red), 

Figs, 

Ginger, 

Gooseberries, 

Grapes — Brighton, 

Concord, 

Delaware, 

Hauteford, 

Hot  House, 

Ives, 

lona, 

Malaga, 

Muscatel, 

Niagara,  . 

Pokington, 

Rebecca, 

Tokay, 

Grape  Fruit,  or  Shaddock, 
Green  Gages, 
Huckleberries, 
Lemons, 
Limes,     .  r' 


July  ist  to  October  ist. 

All  the  year. 

July  1 5th  to  August  I5th. 

All  the  year. 

October   ist  to  November   I  i;th 

July  ist  to  August  1 5th. 

May   ist  to  July   I5th. 

November  ist  to  March  ist. 

All  the  year. 

July   ist  to  August   1 5th. 

October  I5th. 

July   1 5th  to  January   ist. 

July   ist. 

July   ist  to  December   ist. 

July   1 5th  to  November   1 5th. 

July  ist  to  October   I5th. 

July  ist  to  December   ist. 

February   ist  to  December  I5th 

July  ist  to  December  ist. 

July  ist  to  December  ist. 

September   ist  to  April   ist. 

July   ist  to  December   ist. 

July   ist  to  December  ist. 

July  ist  to  December  ist. 

July  1 5th  to  November  I5th. 

July  1 5th  to  December  ist. 

October  ist  to  July  ist. 

August  ist  to  September  I5th. 

June  1 5th  to  September  ist. 

All  the  year. 

All  the  year. 


xiv  SEASONS. 

Mangoes,        ....  July  1st  to  October  1st. 

Melon — Canteloup,          .  .  .  July  1 5th  to  October  1 5th, 

Musk,  .  .  .  July  1 5th  to  October  1 5th. 

Spanish,   ....  November  ist. 

Water,  .  .  .  July  ist  to  October  ist. 

Nectarines,  ....  July  ist  to  September  ist. 

Oranges — Florida,     .  .  .  November  1st  to  March  ist. 

Mandarines,  .  .  .  December  1st  to  March  ist. 

Spanish,  .  .  .  All  the  year. 

Peaches,  .  .  .  <i  July  ist  to  October  1 5th. 

Hot  House,     .  .  .  May  1st  to  July  1st. 

Pears,       .  .  .  .  .  July  I5th  to  March  ist. 

Pineapples,     ....  All  the  year. 

Plums,      .  .  .  .  .  July  ist  to  October  1st. 

Persimmons,  .  .  .  October  ist  to  November  I5th. 

Pomegranates,      ....  December  1st  to  February  ist. 

Quinces,          ....  September  1st  to  December  1st 

Raspberries,         .  June  ist  to  September  ist. 

Strawberries,  .  .  «  March  ist  to  July  ist. 

Hot  House,  .  .  .  January  ist  to  March  ist. 

Tamarinds,     .  .  .  ;.  .  July  1st  to  October  1st. 

Tangerines,  ....  November  1st  to  February  ist. 

Wintergrecn,  .  .  .  July  ist  to  January  ist. 


Market  List. 


ON  HAND. 


Beef. 

Snort  Loin, 

Hips, 

Shoulders,     . 

Top  Ends, 

Chucks, 

Ribs, 

Butts,  .... 

Fresh  Rump,     .          , 

Fresh  Briskets,      .         . 

Shins,        .          .          . 

Kidneys,        .        .»,_.,.• 

Tongues, 

Tails,    .... 

Marrow  Bones, 

Ox  Palates, 

Tenderloin, 

Livers, 

Suet, 

Smoked   Beef. 

Corned  Beef  Rump, 
Corned  Beef  Plate,    . 
Corned  Beef  Brisket,     . 
Spiced  Corned  Beef, 
Smoked  Beef  Tongues, 
Salted  Beef  Tongues, 


WANTED. 


XV! 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

Veal. 

Side,     . 

Backs,      \ 

Hind  Quarter, 

Legs, 

Shoulder, 

Breast,      .         .         .         / 

Loins, 

Knuckles, 

Head, 

Liver,        , 

Feet 

Kidneys 

Brains, 

Sweetbreads  for  broiling, 

Sweetbreads  for  Croquettes, 

Palates. 


WANTED. 


Mutton. 

Backs, 

Saddle  (English  Cut) 

Saddle,  Hind, 

Legs,       . « /     ? , 

Shoulder, 

Breast, 

Kidneys,    .'.;. 

Sheep's  Trotters,      „ 

Necks, 

Suet. 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

Lamb. 

Lamb, 

Backs, 

Legs, 

Saddle, 

Breast, 

Shoulder, 

Feet,         .         .         . 

Fries,    .         . 

Kidneys,  . 

Spring  Lamb,  whole, 

Backs,  Spring  Lamb, 

Legs,  Spring  Lamb, 

Saddle,  Spring  Lamb, 

Breast,  Spring  Lamb,    . 

Shoulder,  Spring  Lamb, 

Provisions. 

Smoked  Hams, 

Fresh  Hams,     . 

Virginia  Hams, 

Westphalia, 

Corned,    •  •   ,   ; 

Bacon  No.  i,    . 

Bacon  No.  2,     :  .,.        r 

Fresh  Loin  of  Pork, 

Country  Loin  of  Pork,  . 

Pork  Tenderloin, 

Larding  Pork, 

Salt  Pork, 

Pickled  Lamb  Tongues, 


xvu 


WANTED. 


XV111 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

PROVISIONS— Continued. 

Country  Sausage, 

Deerfoot  Sausage, 

Helps  Sausage,      .          .          . 

Blood  pudding, 

Audinillette, 

Sausage  Meat, 

Lyons  Sausage,     .          ... 

Bologna, 

Smoked  Shoulders, 

Fresh  Shoulders,        .          . 

Honeycombed  Tripe,     . 

Tripe  No.  2, 

Pigs'  Feet  Pickled, 

Pigs'  Feet  Parboiled, 

Pigs'  Jowls, 

Suckling  Pigs, 

Crepinette,          r,..;. 

Head  Chucks, 

Snails,  . 

Goose  Breasts  (smoked)  . 

Lard.  .... 

Poultry, 

Roasting  Chicken,      '    . 
Broiling  Chicken,  large,    . 
Broiling  Chicken,  small, 
Squab  Chicken, 
Capon,  .          .      !" «        '.' 

Fowl,        .... 
Roasting  Turkey  No.  i, 
Roasting  Turkey  No.  2,    . 


WANTED 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

POULTRY— Continued. 

Broiling  spring,     . 

Boiling,    .... 

Boston  geese, 

Mongol  geese, 

Ducks, 

Spring  Ducklings, 

Spring  Ducklings,  celery  fed, 

Pigeons,    .         ...        ,          . 

Squabs,  .        ;  .. [    -    .;     , 

Guinea  Hens,    .       '-'  *.       "i   : 

Game. 

Canvasback  Ducks, 

Red  Head,     j  r--  tgi'1]  •.  . 

Mallard,        .          .         .         . 

Blackhead,        .         ^ ,       ,-   ' 

Wood,  r.         .',       ..-       •. 

Brandt,     .          .         ;*  "- 

Widgeons,     .          .         ».        .. 

Ruddy,     .          ..'      . 

Teal,     . 

Partridges,  American,       •. 

Partridges,   English,    „          . 

Chicken  grouse,         .          ,    : 

Grouse,          .          .          . 

Woodcocks,  . 

Ptarmigan,    . 

English  Snipe, 

Yellow  Leg  Snipe, 

Sand  Snipe, 

Plover,  .          . 


xix 


WANTED. 


XX 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

GAME— Continued. 
Plover,  Golden,         , 
Quail,  .         . 

Doe  Birds,         .          .         • 
Rail  Birds,    . 
Reed  Birds, 
Wild  Turkeys, 
English  Pheasant, 
Rabbits, 
Venison  Leg,    . 
Venison  Saddle,    . 
Venison  Hind  Quarter, 
Bear,     .... 

Fish— Fresh. 

Angelfish 

Bass,  Black, 

Bass,  Sea, 

Bass  Striped, 

Blackfish, 

Bluefish, 

Butterfish, 

Carp,    . 

Codfish,  live,     .          .          . 

Codfish  steak, 

Codfish  tongues, 

Eels,     .... 

Frogs'  Legs,     . 

Frostfish, 

Haddock,          .          .         . 

Halibut,         . 

Halibut  chicken, 


WANTED 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

FISH — Continued. 
Herrings, 

Kingfish,       .•'."• 
Mackerel — Spanish, 
Mackerel — Fresh, 
Muscallonge,    . 

Perch '\ 

Pickerel,  .... 

Pike '. 

Pompano,          .         ,         . 

Porgies,          .          .       . ..,.  •     •... 

Red  Snapper,    .         . 

Salmon,          .         .         . 

Shad,        .          .      ' ''.'       . 

Shad  Roe,     .          .         .          -. 

Sheepshead, 

Skatefish,  *   .         . 

Smelts, 

Trout,  Brook,        . 

Trout,  Canadian,   •    . 

Trout,  Salmon,      .          .•        ; 

Turbot,     .          . 

Weakfish,      .          .         .          . 

Whitefish, 

Whitebait,     . 

Smoked    and     Salted 
Fish. 

Smoked  Herring, 
Smoked  Finnan  Haddie, 
Smoked  Salmon, 
Smoked  Whitefish, 
Salted  Mackerel, 
Dry  Codfish, 


xxi 


WANTED. 


XX11 


ON  HAND. 


MARKET  LIST. 

Shellfish,   Etc. 

Crayfish, 

Crabs,  Hard, 

Crabs,  Oyster, 

Crabs,  Soft,  .          .         . 

Crabs,  Meat,     .  :    . 

Lobsters,       .          .          «          . 

Prawn,      .          .          .          . ; 

Scallops, 

Shrimp,    . 

Terrapin  Counts,  . 

Terrapin  Shorts, 

Turtle,  .         .          .      ':> 

Oysters,  Clams,  Etc. 

Bluepoints, 
Rockaway,    . 
Shinnecocks,     . 
Lynnhaven,  . 
Shrewsburys,     . 
Cape  Cods,  .... 
Box  Oysters,    .          .   ,      . 
Clams,  Little  Necks, 
Clamsf  Chowder, 
Clams,  Medium,    . 
Clams,  Large,  .          .  •' 
Clams,  Soft,          .      i  ».'       * 


WANTED. 


Soups. 


Kettner  writes  about  Soup:  "There  has  been  a  good  deal  of  needless  contro- 
versy about  Soup,  some  people  finding  in  it  a  dinner  in  itself,  and  some  refusing  it 
as  a  weak  wash,  fit  only  for  babies  and  invalids.  Grimod  de  la  Reyniere  said  that 
Soup  is  to  a  dinner  what  a  portico  is  to  a  palace,  or  an  overture  is  to  an  opera.  It  is 
not  only  the  commencement  of  the  feast,  but  should  give  an  idea  of  what  is  to 
follow."  Another  epicure,  no  less  than  Marquis  de  Cussy,  dubs  Soup  a  sort  of 
preface  to  the  dinner,  and  expresses  his  opinion  that  a  good  work  can  do  without  a 
preface.  Undoubtedly  the  majority  of  opinions  would  be  against  the  Marquis,  for 
with  the  Soup  not  only  does  the  feast  begin,  but  the  stomach  receives  a  little  encour- 
aging stimulation  which  prepares  it  for  the  more  elaborate  task  about  to  follow. 
Admitting  this,  however,  Kettner,  continues,  "  It  is  quite  true,  however,  that  to  serve 
a  purpose  (stomach  stimulating),  we  do  not  require  much  weight  of  matter,  and  the 
plain  rule  to  follow  is:  for  a  great  dinner  the  Soups  should  be  as  light  as  possible, 
just  enough  to  give  a  fillip;  for  a  little  dinner,  with  only  one  or  two  dishes,  they  may 
be  as  rich  and  satisfying  as  you  please.  De  Cussy  is  quite  in  accord  here  with 
Thomas  Walker,  who  maintained  that  if  he  gave  turtle  Soup  to  his  guests  they  would 
want  but  little  else — 'whitebait  and  a  grouse.'  ' 

Soup  should  always  be  sent  to  the  table  in  a  metal  or  earthenware  tureen,  tightly 
covered.  A  metal  ladle  is  best  for  serving  and  it  should  be  separate  from  the  tureen. 
Tureens  with  holes  cut  in  the  lids  for  the  ladle  handle,  let  out  the  heat  and  steam. 
The  following  directions  may  be  of  value  to  the  soup  maker: 

Bring  the  cold  water  in  the  stockpot  with  the  meat  and  bones  to  the  boil  slowly, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  hours,  never  boiling,  and  never  ceasing  to  simmer.  Skim  off 
every  bit  of  scum  and  fat,  for  which  purpose  it  is  as  well  to  .use  a  stockpot  with  a 
faucet  at  the  bottom.  Beware  of  using  too  much  salt ;  a  little  is  advisable,  as  it 
causes  the  scum  to  rise,  but  as  the  liquid  boils  down,  the  proportion  of  salt  is 
increased  in  consequence,  because  the  water  flies  off  in  steam,  but  the  salt  remains. 
Soft  water  is  the  best  for  making  Soup. 

Beef  Tea. 

Procure  some  lean  rump  of  beef,  remove  every  particle  of  fat,  cut  into  small 
pieces  and  place  in  a  champagne  bottle,  cork  and  tie  down  tightly.  Place  the  bottle 
in  a  deep  saucepan  of  cold  water,  reaching  two-thirds  of  the  way  to  the  top  of  the 
bottle,  place  the  pan  on  a  slow  fire,  and  allow  it  to  come  slowly  to  a  boil.  After 
boiling  for  fifteen  minutes,  take  out  the  bottle,  pour  out  the  liquor,  and  use  as 
required. 


io  SOUPS. 


Beef  Jelly. 


Prepare  some  beef  tea  with  very  little  if  any  salt,  and  without  adding  water. 
Place  an  eighth  of  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  cold  water  and 
soak  it;  let  it  stay  there  until  sufficiently  swollen,  then  place  on  the  fire  and  boil 
until  dissolved.  Take  the  beef-tea  extract  when  nearly  cold,  add  the  gelatine,  stir 
well  and  allow  it  to  become  well  set. 

Bisque   of  Clams. 

Place  a  good  knuckle  of  veal,  weighing  about  a  pound  and  a  half,  into  a  soup 
kettle,  with  a  quart  of  water,  one  small  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  bay  leaf,  and  the 
liquor  drained  from  the  clams,  and  simmer  gradually  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  skim- 
ming from  time  to  time.  Then  strain  the  soup  and  again  place  it  in  the  kettle;  rub 
a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  an  equal  amount  of  flour  together  and  add 
it  to  the  soup  when  it  is  boiling,  stirring  the  while  until  again  boiling.  Chop  up 
twenty-five  clams  very  fine  and  place  them  in  the  soup,  season,  and  boil  for  about 
five  minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  and  remove  from  the  fire  immediately, 
and  serve. 

Bisque   of  Crabs. 

Place  a  dozen  live  crabs  in  some  cold  water  with  a  little  salt,  and  let  them  soak 
there  for  one  hour,  then  hash  up  a  couple  of  ounces  of  carrot  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  onion,  and  fry  them  together  with  a  little  butter  in  a  saucepan  large  enough  to 
hold  the  crabs,  add  a  little  parsley  in  sprigs,  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  seasoning  with  salt, 
a  quarter  of  a  bottle  of  white  wine  and  a  little  white  stock,  then  cover  with  the  lid 
and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  after  which  remove  the  crabs,  strain  the  broth,  and  place 
it  one  side  for  twenty  minutes,  when  the  top  should  be  poured  off.  Next,  remove 
the  shells  from  the  crabs,  taking  out  the  lungs  from  both  sides,  and  wash  each  one 
at  a  time  in  some  slightly  warmed  water,  removing  the  small  legs,  then  drain  them 
and  pound  to  a  paste,  with  about  half  their  quantity  of  cooked  rice,  add  a  little  of  the 
juice  in  which  they  have  been  cooked,  drain  first  through  a  sieve  and  then  through  a 
tammy-cloth,  and  mix  in  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce.  Add  a  little  salt  and  red 
pepper,  and  place  over  the  fire  just  previous  to  serving,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  come 
to  a  boil,  adding  an  eighth  of  a  pound  of  fine  butter,  and  mix  with  a  spoon  until 
entirely  melted,  and  serve  with  bread  crusts  fried  in  butter. 


Bisque   of  Crayfish. 


Procure  five  or  six  dozen  fresh  water  crayfish,  and  boil  them  without  any  vinegar 
in  the  water.  Select  two  dozen  and  a  half  of  the  finest  tails  that  remain  whole,  and 
pound  the  rest  with  all  the  fleshy  parts  and  meat  in  a  mortar,  with  the  flesh  from  the 
breasts  of  two  roasted  chickens  or  fowls.  Boil  the  crumb  of  a  couple  of  French  rolls 


SOUPS.  ii 

in  some  rich  broth  ;  place  this  in  a  mortar  with  a  few  yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  and 
pound  well  together,  then  mix  thoroughly  with  the  crayfish  and  chicken  ;  put  the 
shells  of  the  fish  to  boil  in  a  little  water  or  broth,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Boil 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream,  stirring  continually  so  that  no  scum  will  arise  ;  pour  this 
into  the  soup,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  Have  in  readiness  two  spawn  of  a 
lobster  well  pounded,  dilute  it  with  some  of  the  ,broth,  and  mix  in  with  the  soup, 
which  must  be  kept  hot  but  without  boiling.  Soak  a  few  rounds  of  bread  and  lay 
them  at  the  bottom  of  a  tureen,  pour  the  bisque  over  them,  place  the  tails  which 
have  been  placed  one  side,  over  the  soup,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Bisque   of  Lobster. 

Remove  the  meat  of  a  lobster  from  the  shell,  and  cut  the  tender  pieces  into 
quarter  inch  dice ;  put  the  ends  of  the  claw-meat  and  any  tough  portions  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  the  bones  of  the  body  and  a  little  cold  water,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes, 
adding  a  little  water  from  time  to  time  as  may  be  necessary.  Put  the  coral  to  dry  in 
a  moderate  oven,  and  mix  a  little  flour  with  some  cold  milk,  and  stir  into  the  milk, 
which  should  be  boiling,  stirring  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  strain  the  water 
from  the  bones  and  other  parts,  mix  it  with  the  milk,  add  a  little  butter,  salt,  pepper 
and  cayenne  to  taste,  and  rub  the  dry  coral  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  putting  enough 
into  the  soup  to  make  it  a  bright  pink  color.  Place  the  green  fat  and  lobster  dice  in 
a  soup  tureen,  strain  the  boiling  soup  over  them  and  serve  at  once. 

Bisque  of  Oysters. 

Place  about  thirty  medium  sized  oysters  in  a  saucepan  together  with  their  own 
juice,  and  poach  them  over  a  hot  fire,  after  which  drain  them  well.  Then  fry  a 
shallot  colorless  in  some  butter  together  with  an  onion,  sprinkle  over  them  a  little 
curry  and  add  some  of  the  oyster  juice,  seasoning  with  salt  and  red  pepper  ;  pound 
the  oysters  to  a  good  firm  paste,  moistening  them  with  a  little  of  their  juice,  and 
strain  through  a  fine  tammy-cloth ;  warm  them  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  them  boil; 
add  a  small  quantity  of  thickening  of  potato  flour  mixed  with  a  little  water,  (about  a 
tablespoonful  for  each  quart  of  the  mixture),  and  when  about  to  serve,  incorporate 
some  cream  and  fine  butter,  garnishing  with  some  chopped  oysters  and  mushrooms, 
mixed  with  bread  crumbs  and  herbs  ;  add  a  little  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg, some  raw  egg  yolks  and  roll  this  mixture  into  ball-shaped  pieces,  place  them  on 
a  well  buttered  baking  sheet  in  a  slack  oven  and  poach  them,  then  serve. 

Tomato   Bisque. 

Stew  half  a  can  of  tomatoes  until  they  become  quite  soft  and  will  strain  readily, 
then  boil  a  quart  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Cook  together  a  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch  and  an  equal  quantity  of  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  adding  enough  hot  milk 


12  SOUPS. 

to  make  it  pour  readily,  then  stir  it  carefully  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  let  it  boil  for 
about  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  a  third  of  a  cup  of  butter  in  small  lumps,  and  stir  it 
until  it  has  become  well  incorporated,  add  some  salt  and  pepper  and  the  strained 
tomatoes,  and  if  the  tomatoes  are  very  acid,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  soda  may  be 
added.  Serve  while  hot. 

Broth. 


Barley 


Put  a  trimmed  sheep's  head  or  two  pounds  of  fleshy  shin  of  beef  into  half  a 
gallon  of  water,  adding  a  teacupful  of  well- washed  and  strained  barley  (Pearl),  two 
sliced  onions  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  together  with  half  a  dozen  peeled  and 
sliced  potatoes  and  a  little  thyme  ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer  for 
three  or  four  hours,  stirring  frequently  to  prevent  the  meat  and  vegetables  settling  at 
the  bottom  and  burning.  Serve  very  hot. 

Beef  Broth  with  Vermicelli. 

Cut  some  lean  beef  into  small  squares  and  chop  it,  put  in  a  stew  pan,  with  an 
egg  broken  and  poured  over  ;  skim  the  fat  off  of  two  quarts  of  cold  bouillon,  and 
pour  it  over  the  whole,  add  a  piece  of  leek,  a  piece  of  celery,  and  a  little  minced 
carrot,  stirring  occasionally.  When  it  bubbles,  move  it  to  one  side,  and  simmer 
gently  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Drain  into  a  good-sized  bowl  through  a  wet 
cloth,  and  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  put  it  on  to  boil  for  five  minutes  longer,  then  add 
a  few  ounces  of  blanched  vermicelli.  Serve  with  toast,  in  a  tureen. 

Chicken   Broth. 

Chop  a  chicken  into  pieces  and  put  them  into  an  earthenware  pot  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  pearl  barley,  one  tea  spoonful  of  coriander  seed,  pour  in  two  quarts  of 
water  and  boil  for  three  hours,  skimming  frequently  ;  then  add  a  handful  or  so  of 
lettuce  leaves,  cover  over  the  pot,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  let  it  stand  for  twenty 
minutes,  strain  through  a  cloth  or  fine  sieve,  and  serve. 

Clam-Juice   Broth. 

After  washing  the  clams  in  their  shells  in  cold  water,  place  them  on  a  stove  in  a 
very  thick  saucepan,  and  as  they  become  hot,  their  shells  will  open ;  then  carefully 
pour  out  the  broth,  strain  it  through  a  closely  woven  cloth,  season  to  suit  the  taste, 
and  serve. 

Jelly   Broth,    Palestine   Style. 

Make  one  quart  of  jelly  broth,  strain,  and  keep  it  hot  by  the  side  of  the  fire. 
With  a  vegetable  scoop,  cut  some  balls  from  Jerusalem  artichokes,  blanch  them  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  broth,  and  boil  until  they  are  tender,  and  the 
broth  is  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Boil  one  teacupful  of  well-washed  rice  in  broth  till  soft. 


SOUPS.  13 

place  the  artichokes  and  rice  into  a  soup  tureen,  mix  one-half  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
with  the  broth,  pour  it  over  the  vegetables,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread, 
or  sippets  of  toast. 

Jelly  Broth  with  Macaroni. 

Boil  in  salted  water  six  or  eight  ounces  of  macaroni  ;  when  tender,  drain,  and  cut 
it  across  into  pieces  about  one  and  one-half  inch  in  length.  Have  ready  some  boil- 
ing jelly  broth  and  put  it  in  the  macaroni.  In  about  ten  minutes  time  turn  the  broth 
into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  with  a  plateful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

Mutton   Broth. 

Wash  two  pounds  of  the  scrag  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  wipe  it  with  a  cloth, 
cut  off  the  fat  and  skin,  scrape  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  chop  it  into 
small  squares.  Put  the  meat  in  a  saucepan  with  three  pints  of  water  and 
the  bones  in  another  pan  with  one  pint  of  water.  Place  the  pan  containing  the 
bones  by  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  until  wanted.  Set  the  pan  with  the 
meat  over  a  quick  fire,  boil  it,  skimming  frequently,  and  when  the  scum  comes  up 
quite  white  put  in  one  pint  of  pearl  barley  and  skim  again.  Cut  a  carrot,  a  turnip 
and  an  equal  quantity  of  celery  into  small  pieces  and  fry  them  in  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter  for  five  minutes,  add  them  to  the  meat  and  cook  slowly  for  about  four  hours. 
Put  one  tablespoonful  each  of  flour  and  butter  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  when 
the  flour  is  smooth  add  the  strained  broth  from  the  bones,  and  pour  it  into  the  meat 
broth.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  two  of  salt,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes  longer  and  serve  without  strain- 
ing. In  most  cases  the  meat  is  preferred  strained  from  the  broth,  but  if  the  skin  and 
fat  are  removed  the  strong  and  disagreeable  flavor  will  be  prevented.  A  larger 
quantity  of  vegetables  may  be  used  if  desired,  or  rice  may  be  used  instead  of  barley, 
or  the  meat  may  be  cut  into  dice  and  fried  a  few  minutes  in  butter.  If  the  carrots 
are  grated  they  will  give  the  broth  a  fine  color. 

Plain   Broth. 

Place  the  desired  amount  of  beef  into  a  stockpot,  with  a  knuckle  of  veal  and  half 
a  fowl,  covering  with  plenty  of  water.  Boil  this  slowly,  letting  the  scum  come  to  the 
surface  and  removing  same  until  it  has  become  quite  clear;  then  while  still  boiling 
put  in  a  head  of  celery,  three  or  four  small  carrots,  three  leeks,  three  turnips  and  a 
couple  of  onions,  stick  into  one  of  the  onions  a  few  cloves,  say  four  or  five;  move  the 
stockpot  to  one  side  and  simmer  for  several  hours;  skim  off  all  the  fat,  put  in  a  lump 
of  salt  and  it  is  ready  for  serving. 

Tapioca   Broth. 

Place  a  chicken  and  a  knuckle  of  veal  in  a  saucepan  or  double  boiler,  with  a  few 
vegetables  previously  cooked  in  white  broth,  and  pour  over  one  gallon  of  cold  water, 


I4  SOUPS. 

set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  boil  gently  until  the  meat  is  done.  Strain  the  broth 
through  a  cloth  into  another  saucepan,  remove  the  fat,  and  boil  up  once  more;  then 
add  as  much  tapioca  as  may  be  required,  letting  it  fall  into  the  soup  like  rain. 
Remove  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  cook  gently  for  twenty  minutes  or 
so.  If  desired  it  can  be  thickened  with  yolks  of  eggs.  Turn  the  soup  into  the 
tureen,  and  serve  it  very  hot. 

Broth   Thickened   with   Eggs. 

Take  enough  good  game  or  fowl  consomme,  and  to  each  half  pint  add  the  yolk 
of  one  egg,  and  beat  in  and  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour. 

Veal   Broth. 

Place  four  or  five  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal  in  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of 
water,  two  blades  of  mace,  one  onion,  a  little  parsley,  and  a  head  of  celery  cut  into 
pieces,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  boiling,  move  the  saucepan  a  trifle  to 
the  side,  and  keep  the  water  simmering  until  it  is  reduced  one-third.  Strain  the 
broth,  stir  in  with  it  a  little  well  boiled  rice  or  vermicelli,  and  serve. 

Vegetable   Broth. 

Boil  two  sliced  potatoes,  a  carrot,  turnip  and  onion  for  an  hour  in  a  quart  of 
water,  taking  care  to  keep  the  full  amount  of  water  in,  by  adding  a  little  now  and 
then,  as  required  ;  flavor  with  salt  and  sweet  herbs  and  strain.  Add  a  little  mush- 
room catsup  and  serve. 

Catfish   Chowder. 

Wash  the  fish  in  warm  water,  then  place  it  on  the  fire  in  just  enough  water  to 
cover  it,  and  boil  until  tender,  or  until  the  bones  will  slip  out.  Take  out  the  largest 
bones,  chop  up  the  fish,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  about  a  pint  of  water,  a  large  piece 
of  butter,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and  salt,  one 
small  onion,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  and  one-half  teacupful  of  walnut  catsup, 
and  stew  the  mixture  until  quite  thick.  Garnish  with  sliced  lemons,  and  serve  hot. 

Clam    Chowder. 

Fry  six  slices  of  crisp,  fat  pork,  after  which  chop  them  to  pieces,  and  sprinkle 
them  in  the  bottom  of  a  pot  ;  lay  over  a  layer  of  clams,  adding  a  little  cayenne 
or  black  pepper  and  salt,  and  sprinkle  on  a  few  small  lumps  of  butter,  then  place  a 
layer  of  chopped  onions,  and  another  of  small  crackers,  split  and  moistened  with 
some  warm  milk.  Over  this  preparation  pour  a  little  of  the  fat  left  in  the  pan  in 
which  the  pork  has  been  fried  ;  then  repeat  the  layers  of  pork,  clams,  and  onions, 
until  the  pot  is  filled,  or  nearly  so,  then  cover  with  water  and  stew  slowly,  keeping 


SOUPS.  15 

the  pot  closely  covered  the  while,  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  drain  off  all  the 
liquor  that  will  come  off  readily,  turn  the  chowder  into  a  tureen,  and  return  the 
gravy  to  the  pot.  Thicken  the  gravy  with  some  flour  or  pounded  crackers,  add  a 
glass  of  wine,  some  catsup  and  a  little  spiced  sauce,  let  it  boil  up  and  pour  it  over  the 
contents  in  the  tureen.  Either  walnut  or  butternut  pickles  may  be  served  with  it. 

Corn   Chowder. 

Scrape  about  one  quart  of  raw  sweet  Indian  corn  from  the  cob,  and  place  it  in  a 
saucepan  with  enough  water  to  cover,  boiling  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Skim  out  the 
corn  as  it  floats  on  the  top  ;  pare  some  potatoes,  so  that  when  cut  into  slices  they  will 
fill  a  pint  measure,  soak  and  put  them  into  hot  water  to  scald.  Fry  an  onion  to- 
gether with  a  piece  of  salt  pork  of  about  two  inches  cube,  and  strain  the  fat  into  a 
saucepan  with  the  corn  water.  Put  in  the  potatoes,  corn,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
of  pepper,  place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  let  the  liquor  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  until  the  corn  and  potatoes  are  tender.  Put  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
one  pint  of  potatoes,  one  pint  of  milk,  and  boil  up  again.  It  must  be  served  hot  with 
crisp  crackers. 

Consomme  Stock. 

Cut  finely  a  shin  of  beef,  put  it  in  a  stockpot  with  two  scraped  carrots,  two 
peeled  onions,  three  washed  leeks,  a  few  sticks  of  celery,  and  a  small  bunch  of  par- 
sley roots,  all  finely  minced  ;  add  six  cloves,  one  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns,  a  bay 
leaf,  and  the  whites  and  shells  of  six  eggs.  Moisten  this  with  two  gallons  of  broth 
and  one  quart  of  water,  stir  for  a  few  minutes,  place  on  the  range,  add  a  few  pieces  of 
chicken  or  bones  if  handy.  Simmer  for  four  hours,  skim  off  the  grease  and  strain 
through  a  wet  cloth. 

Chicken    Consomme. 

Remove  the  fillets  from  two  chickens  and  put  the  carcases  with  six  pounds  of 
fillet  of  veal  into  a  stockpot  with  five  quarts  of  good  stock,  season  with  half  an 
ounce  of  salt,  place  the  pot  on  the  fire  and  boil  ;  skim  it  well,  add  two  onions  stuck 
with  two  cloves  each,  a  head  of  celery  and  four  leeks.  Let  the  pot  simmer  on  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  about  three  hours,  skim  off  the  fat,  strain  the  broth  and  clarify 
with  the  fillets  of  chicken  previously  removed  ;  then  strain  once  more  through  a  cloth 
into  a  basin.  This  consomme  should  be  colorless. 

Duchess    Consomme. 

Butter  a  baking  sheet,  cover  with  four  ounces  of  chou-paste,  cook  in  the  oven 
for  six  minutes,  then  cover  the  paste  with  forcemeat  in  small  lumps  laid  at  a  little 
distance  apart.  Cut  the  paste  into  twelve  equal  sized  pieces,  each  piece  holding  a 
lump  of  the  forcemeat,  pour  one  quart  of  boiling  consomme  over  and  serve. 


16  SOUPS. 

Fish   Consomme. 

Put  into  a  two  gallon  stewpan  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  four  sliced 
onions,  three  heads  of  celery  cut  up  small,  five  carrots  cut  in  slices,  four  unpicked 
shallots,  two  bay  leaves,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  three  cloves,  one  clove  of  unpicked 
garlic  and  twelve  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  fry  to  a  reddish  brown  color.  When  they  are 
well  done,  pour  in  five  quarts  of  water  and  one  bottle  Chablis  or  Sauterne.  Put  the 
stewpan  on  the  fire  and  boil,  skim  and  add  a  little  mignonette  pepper,  an  ounce  and 
a  half  of  salt,  six  pounds  of  any  kind  of  fish  cut  in  pieces,  and  the  heads  and  bones 
of  six  large  whiting,  cod  or  eels,  but  keeping  their  fillets  to  clarify.  Place  the  pan 
on  the  side  of  the  fire,  simmer  for  two  hours,  then  strain  the  contents  through  a  nap- 
kin. Pound  the  fillets  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  stir  them  in  the  liquor,  replace 
the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  After  straining  again  it  is 
ready  to  serve. 

Consomme   Printanier. 

Cut  two  carrots  and  one  turnip  into  shapes  with  a  vegetable  scoop,  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes  in  salted  water,  drain  and  throw  into  one  quart  of  consomme,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  French  beans,  cut  into  small  pieces.  Add  a  handful  of 
chiffonade,  cook  five  minutes  more  and  serve. 


Royal 


Consomme. 


Beat  two  eggs  and  mix  with  them  half  a  teacupful  of  milk  and  one  pinch  of 
salt.  Pour  the  beaten  eggs  and  milk  in  a  basin,  stand  the  basin  in  a  larger  one  con- 
taining hot  water,  put  them  in  the  oven  and  bake  until  the  contents  of  the  small 
basin  are  firm,  then  take  the  basins  out  and  put  the  small  one  away  to  cool;  when  set 
cut  the  mixture  into  small  well  shaped  pieces,  and  pour  over  them  one  quart  of 
boiling  consomme,  and  serve. 

Consomme  with   Green   Peas. 

Cut  into  pieces  half  a  breast  of  a  cooked  chicken,  put  in  a  tureen,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  boiled  rice,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  green  peas,  and  one  truffle  cut 
into  dice.  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  consomme  over  all. 

Consomme  with  Pearl    Barley. 

Wash  three  tablespoonfuls  of  pearl  barley,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  three  pints  of 
consomme,  and  let  boil  for  forty  minutes.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  breast 
of  chicken  cut  in  dice,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  green  peas,  and  serve  in  a  hot 
tureen. 


SOUPS.  17 

Consomme  with   Quenelles. 

Prepare  some  small  quenelles  in  a  buttered  stew  pan,  pour  salted  water  over 
them,  and  poach  for  two  minutes.  Drain  on  a  sieve,  put  in  a  tureen  with  one  quart 
of  boiling  consomme  over  them,  and  serve. 

Consomme  with  Rice  and   Cream. 

Remove  the  fat  from  half  a  gallon  of  consomme,  put  in  a  stewpan  and  when  at 
the  point  of  boiling  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  rice,  previously  moistened 
with  a  little  stock.  Boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  add  one  teaspoonful  each  of  sugar  and 
salt,  boil  again  and  when  the  rice  is  quite  done,  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  cream. 

Barley  Cream  Soup. 

Mix  in  a  saucepan  in  the  following  proportions :  Some  barley  (one  teacupful) 
an  onion,  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  and  three  pints  of  chicken 
broth.  When  it  comes  to  a  boiling  point,  remove  to  one  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  it 
simmer  slowly  for  five  hours.  Then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  returning  it  to 
the  saucepan.  Mix  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk,  or  if  cream  is  used  in  place  of  milk,  the  butter  may  be  omitted  ;  season  to  taste 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  teacupful  of  milk  ;  mix  this 
in  the  soup,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  a  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil 
after  the  eggs  are  added.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve  with  a  plate  of 
sippets  of  roast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Cauliflower  Cream  Soup. 

The  clear,  white  broth  which  has  had  an  old  fowl  boiled  tender  in  it  is  the  best 
for  such  soup  as  this,  and  any  pieces  of  bones  from  the  breakfast  or  dinner  meats  may 
be  put  into  the  stockpot  with  it  to  make  it  richer.  Take  about  a  quart  of  stock,  a 
pint  of  good  rich  milk,  one  pint  of  cauliflower  sprays,  one  tablespoonful  each  of 
butter,  salt  and  white  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  half  a  blade  of 
mace  and  a  small  quantity  of  any  vegetables  at  hand — cauliflower  being  the  prin- 
cipal one.  If  cooked  for  the  purpose,  pick  the  cauliflower  into  little  branches,  and 
boil  it  separately  for  half  an  hour  in  salted  water.  Strain  off  one  quart  of  the  stock, 
clear  and  free  from  grease,  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  it  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
minced  onion ;  then  mash  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cooked  cauliflower  and  throw  it  in  ; 
boil  one  pint  of  rich  milk  and  add  that  ;  season  with  a  little  salt  and  white  pepper, 
if  not  sufficiently  blended,  thicken,  till  it  looks  like  a  thin  cream,  with  flour  and 
water  ;  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  the  other  breakfast  cupful  of 
cooked  cauliflower  branches,  and  sprinkle  on  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley.  It 
is  then  ready  to  be  served. 


i8  SOUPS. 


Cream   of  Celery. 


Boil  a  trimmed  head  of  celery  in  one  pint  of  water  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes; 
boil  a  piece  of  mace  and  a  large  slice  of  onion  in  one  pint  of  milk;  mix  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  milk,  add  this  to  the  boiling  milk, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Mash  celery  in  the  water  in  which  it  has  been  cooked, 
mix  it  into  the  boiling  milk,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  season  with  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Strain  and  serve  immediately.  The  flavor  may  be  improved  by 
adding  one  teacupful  of  whipped  cream  when  the  soup  is  in  the  tureen. 

Cream   of   Game. 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  any  boiled  game,  remove  the  skin  and  chop,  pound  it 
to  a  paste  in  a  mortar  and  then  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  well 
washed  rice,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs>  a  dozen  pepper  corns,  three  or  four  cloves,  a 
dessertspoonful  of  salt  and  three  pints  of  broth.  Boil  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  strain 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve  and  mix  one  teacupful  of  cream  with  it.  Serve  in  a  tureen 
with  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  game  cut  into  small  pieces. 

Cream  of  Lentils. 

Soak  one  pint  of  lentils  in  cold  water  for  four  hours,  then  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  boil  with  two  quarts  of  water,  one  carrot,  one  onion,  two  ounces  of  salt  pork, 
six  whole  peppers,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt  and 
bones  of  one  partridge.  Cook  for  forty-five  minutes,  and  then  rub  through  a  sieve; 
cut  half  the  breast  of  a  partridge  in  slices,  place  them  in  the  soup  tureen  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  pour  over  the  puree,  and  serve  with  a  handful  of  fried  sippets  of 
bread,  suppressing  the  parsley. 

Cream  of  Lettuce. 

Wash  well  three  good-sized  heads  of  lettuce,  drain,  chop,  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  about  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
lightly.  Moisten  with  two  quarts  of  broth,  and  season  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  add  a 
garnished  bunch  of  parsley  and  four  or  five  ounces  of  well  cleaned  raw  rice  ;  cover 
the  saucepan  and  cook  for  forty-five  minutes  ;  then  remove  the  parsley,  and  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Clean  the  saucepan  well,  pour  the  soup  into  it  again,  and  let 
it  come  nearly  to  the  boil,  stirring  "meanwhile  with  a  spatula.  Pour  in  one  pint  of 
sweet  cream,  stir  it  a  little  more,  and  turn  it  into  a  hot  tureen.  Serve  with  sippets  of 
toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 


SOUPS.  19 

Cream   of  Lima  Beans. 

Put  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  mirepoix,  a  little  flour  and 
the  Lima  beans,  seasoned  with  salt.  Moisten  them  with  some  white  broth,  and  cook 
for  thirty  minutes.  Strain  them  through  a  sieve,  and  serve  with  some  cream  and 
small  croutons  souffles. 

Cream   of  Mushrooms. 

Wash  and  peel  one  quart  of  fresh  mushrooms,  put  them  into  a  quart  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  until  tender  enough  to  rub  through  a  sieve  ;  stir  them  in  two  quarts  of 
cream  soup,  as  follows  :  take  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  mix 
until  they  bubble,  then  stir  in  one  quart  of  hot  milk  and  boiling  water,  a  teacupful  at 
a  time.  When  all  the  water  and  milk  have  been  used  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Potato   Cream  Soup. 

Boil  some  veal  bones  in  three  quarts  of  water  until  it  is  reduced  to  two  quarts, 
first  placing  in  with  the  veal  bones,  a  knuckle  of  ham  or  a  slice  of  pickled  pork  and  a 
bunch  of  vegetables.  Then  chop  an  onion  very  fine  and  put  it  in  the  soup ;  peel  and 
boil  two  large  potatoes,  and  when  thoroughly  cooked,  drain  and  mash  them,  mixing 
in  a  little  at  a  time,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  cream  or  milk.  Mix  in  the  potato  cream 
with  the  soup,  and  strain  it  through  a  colander  into  a  soup  tureen,  seasoning  it  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley  and  serve. 

Cream  of  Rice. 

Cut  about  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  loin  of  veal  into  small  pieces,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  two  quarts  of  milk,  and  nearly  a  breakfast  cupful  of  well-washed 
rice ;  add  a  small  onion,  and  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt.  Let  the  whole 
simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  meat  is  very  tender  and  the  rice  reduced  to  a 
pulp.  Strain  the  soup  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  then  return  it  to  the  saucepan ;  when 
boiling,  move  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  that  have 
been  beaten  up  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  strained.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen 
and  serve  it  while  very  hot,  accompanied,  if  desired,  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of  toast 
or  small  croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  fried  to  a  delicate  brown  in  butter. 

Cream   of  Sorrel. 

Steam  three  or  four  handfuls  of  well-washed  sorrel  with  one  ounce  of  butter. 
After  cooking  for  ten  minutes,  rub  through  a  sieve  into  a  saucepan,  add  one  pint  of 
bechamel  sauce,  and  one  quart  of  white  broth,  season  with  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  let  it  boil  for,  fifteen  minutes.  Thicken  the 
soup  with  one  teacupful  of  cream  and  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  well-beaten  together 
and  serve  with  slices  of  bread  or  toast. 


20  SOUPS. 


Cream   of  Tapioca. 


Put  a  large  slice  of  ham  into  a  saucepan  with  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  dust 
in  one  breakfastcupful  of  flour,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  for  a  few  minutes;  then 
pour  in  a  little  thick  soup  and  stir  it  until  the  liquor  is  quite  thick.  Pour  three  quarts 
each  of  milk  and  good  rich  stock  into  a  saucepan,  strain  the  thickening  into  it,  and 
add  a  blade  of  mace,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  finely  chopped  onion,  half  that  quantity 
each  of  carrots  and  turnips,  also  finely  chopped,  and  finally  a  trifle  more  than  one 
teacupful  of  tapioca.  Boil  very  gently  until  the  grains  of  tapioca  are  quite  trans- 
parent, add  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  pour  the 
soup  into  a  tureen,  and  serve. 


Tomato   Cream  Soup. 


Peel  and  slice  one  quart  of  fresh,  ripe  tomatoes,  pick  carefully  over  one-half 
breakfast  cupful  of  rice,  and  wash  it  well  in  cold  water;  rub  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  to  a  smooth  paste  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  put  the  tomatoes  over  the 
fire  in  a  soup  kettle,  with  one  quart  of  cold  water,  and  let  them  heat  gradually. 
When  they  are  thoroughly  heated  add  one  more  quart  of  cold  water,  and  when  this 
boils,  put  in  the  rice,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and 
continue  the  boiling  until  the  rice  is  tender,  but  not  broken;  then  stir  in  the  paste  of 
flour  and  butter,  one  saltspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  and  one  pint  of  milk,  or 
sufficient  to  make  the  soup  as  thick  as  cream.  Allow  the  soup  to  boil  for  a  few 
minutes  to  thoroughly  cook  the  flour,  and  then  serve  without  delay  in  a  tureen. 


Puree  of  Asparagus. 


Pick  out  the  tender  parts  of  the  asparagus,  wash  thoroughly,  and  heat  in  boiling 
water  with  some  salt  to  make  them  green.  When  beginning  to  get  tender,  drain  and 
place  them  in  cold  water.  When  cold,  drain  on  a  clean  towel,  and  when  dry,  put  in 
a  saucepan  previously  prepared  with  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter,  some  sprigs  of 
green  parsley,  and  a  few  green  onions;  fry  them  as  quickly  as  possible,  to  preserve 
the  green  color,  adding  a  lump  of  sugar,  a  little  salt,  and  a  small  quantity  of  fine 
flour,  and  moisten  with  a  good  broth.  Cool  quickly  and  rub  through  a  tammy  sieve, 
adding  a  little  spinach  green  to  color  it. 


Red  Bean  Puree  Soup. 


Put  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  enough  red  beans  previously  soaked  in  cold  water 
for  four  hours  and  moisten  with  some  white  broth  ;  cook  till  soft  and  rub  through  a 
sieve,  adding  a  couple  of  ounces  of  salt  pork  blanched,  some  onion,  carrot  and  a 
garnished  bouquet,  together  with  a  little  pepper.  Cook  thoroughly  for  one  hour, 
and  strain,  adding  half  a  glass  of  claret,  and  serve  with  small  croutons  of  fried  bread. 


SOUPS.  21 

Puree  of  Cardoons. 

Remove  the  prickles  from  some  white  and  sound  cardoons,  blanch  them  in  water 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  rub  off  the  skins,  cut  them  in  three-inch  lengths,  and 
put  them  on  a  wire  drainer  in  an  oval  stewpan  ;  lay  on  the  top  some  thin  slices  of 
bacon  (fat)  and  cover  them  with  a  white  dressing  made  of  flour,  stock  and  clarified 
fat ;  add  one  onion,  stuck  with  two  cloves,  some  slices  of  peeled  and  seeded  lemon, 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Allow  these  to  simmer  until  the  cardoons  are  done, 
then  pour  in  an  equal  quantity  of  bechamel  sauce,  reduce  and  press  the  mixture 
through  a  tammy-cloth.  Before  serving  add  butter  and  raw  cream  to  the  puree. 

Carrot  Puree. 

Chop  very  finely  all  the  red  portions  of  some  carrots  ;  fry  them  in  butter,  and 
finish  cooking  by  adding  a  little  broth  ;  when  done,  reduce  the  broth  to  a  glaze,  stir 
in  six  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce,  and  strain  through  a  sieve.  Mix  with  this 
puree  five  or  six  pints  of  white  broth,  then  pass  it  all  through  a  sieve  into  a  sauce- 
pan, place  it  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  it  begins  to  bubble  ;  then  move  it  on  one  side 
of  the  stove  and  leave  for  an  hour  to  settle.  Skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  broth,  and 
thicken  it  with  a  mixture  of  four  egg  yolks,  diluted  with  cream  and  poured  through 
a  sieve  ;  and  then  place  the  soup  over  the  fire  again,  stirring  in  a  few  tablespoonfuls 
of  blanched  noodles  and  a  lump  of  butter.  When  the  soup  is  hot,  pour  it  into  a 
soup  tureen,  and  serve. 

Celery   Puree. 

Prepare  half  a  dozen  heads  of  celery  as  for  celery  with  gravy,  wipe  and  drain, 
cutting  them  into  small  pieces.  Put  these  into  a  glazing-pan  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  bechamel  sauce,  reduce  well  and  then  pass  all  through  a  sieve  by  rubbing  with  the 
back  of  a  spoon.  Add  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  teacupful  of  rich  cream  to  the 
mixture,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste. 

Puree  of  Herbs  with   Vegetables. 

Wash  a  savoy  cabbage,  slice  it  and  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  two  sliced  leeks 
and  a  little  butter;  let  them  fry  for  an  hour,  put  with  them  four  sliced  heads  of  cab- 
bage lettuce,  one  small  sized  beet  root,  one  handful  each  of  borage  leaves,  and  sor- 
rel, and  one  pinch  of  chervil.  When  the  herbs  are  done,  sprinkle  over  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  pour  in  two  quarts  of  broth,  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  begins  to 
boil.  Beat  six  eggs  and  one-fourth  pint  of  cream  and  stir  it  in  the  broth.  Cut  a 
fourth  pound  of  butter  into  little  bits  and  add  it  to  the  soup. 


22  SOUPS. 

Vegetable  Puree. 

Wash  well  a  couple  of  bunches  of  young  carrots,  scrape  them  thoroughly  and 
rasp  off  the  red  parts  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  small  quantity  of  butter  and  a  slice  of 
lean  ham,  also  a  few  leeks  and  sticks  of  celery  tied  up  in  a  bundle,  and  stir  well  over 
the  fire  until  the  vegetables  are  slightly  colored,  then  pour  in  the  required  quantity 
of  fowl  or  other  consomme,  and  boil  slowly  for  two  hours.  Take  out  the  roots  and 
ham  and  strain  the  soup  into  another  saucepan,  rub  the  carrots  through  a  sieve  and 
add  them  to  the  soup,  and  bring  it  once  more  to  the  boil.  Remove  the  saucepan  to 
the  side  of  the  fire,  skim  the  soup  carefully,  add  a  small  pinch  of  sugar,  pour  it  into  a 
tureen  and  serve. 

American  Soup. 

Put  one  pound  of  the  neck  of  mutton  into  a  saucepan  with  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  split  peas  that  have  been  previously  soaked  and  five  pints  of  water,  and 
place  it  over  a  clear  fire  ;  when  boiling,  put  into  a  saucepan  one  large  chopped  onion 
half  a  turnip,  half  a  carrot  and  a  stick  of  celery  cut  into  small  pieces,  also  one-half 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  boil  all  gently  for  two  or  three  hours.  Cut  one  pound  of 
tomatoes  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  the  soup,  and  boil  it  for  thirty  minutes 
longer.  Strain  the  soup  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  pour  it  back  into  the  saucepan 
again,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  up  once  more.  Turn  it  into  a  soup 
tureen,  and  serve  with  it  a  plate  of  sippets  of  toast,  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Andalusian  Soup. 

Simmer  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  three  quarts  of  stock,  prepared  as  for  thick 
soup  with  clarified  fish  broth.  Mix  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  soubise  puree  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs.  Mix  half  a  dozen  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  with  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  pike  quenelle  forcemeat,  and  season  it  with  a  little  mild  Spanish  pepper. 
Shape  it  into  quenelles  and  poach  them.  Add  the  soubise  preparation  with  the  soup, 
and  stir  it  well  ;  then  skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  soup.  Put  the  quenelles  into  a 
soup  tureen,  strain  the  soup  over  them,  and  serve  with  a  dish  of  poached  eggs. 

Asparagus  Soup. 

The  desired  number  of  asparagus  heads  should  be  picked,  scraped  and  thor- 
oughly washed,  the  tops  being  broken  off  as  far  down  the  stalks  as  possible.  Cook 
in  boiling  salt  water  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Put  the  stalks  into  some  good  veal 
stock  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Then  cut  an  onion  into  thin  slices,  and  fry  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  for  ten  minutes,  being  careful  not  to  allow  it  to  burn, 
and  add  a  portion  of  the  asparagus  tips.  Cook  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  gently  ; 
add  a  little  flour,  and  continue  the  cooking  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  Remove 
the  stalks  from  the  stock,  pour  in  the  contents  of  the  frying  pan  and  boil  all  together 


SOUPS.  23 

for  twenty  minutes.  Then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Have  ready  boiling  a  pint  of  milk 
and  a  pint  of  cream,  and  add  to  the  stock.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
serve. 

Barley  Soup. 

Make  with  some  mutton  a  good  soup,  then  wash  a  teacupful  or  so  of  pearl  barley 
in  two  or  three  waters,  and  boil  in  plenty  of  fresh  water  for  two  hours.  Strain  the 
liquor  from  it,  rinse  in  cold  water  and  set  one  side.  Cut  two  slices  of  turnip,  and  half 
that  quantity  of  carrot  and  onion  into  small  dice-shaped  pieces  all  of  one  size  and  boil 
them  in  a  soup-stock  until  tender,  say  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Cut  up  about  as 
small  size  as  much  meat  as  there  was  turnips  and  add  to  the  soup.  Follow  by  adding 
the  cooked  barley  and  chopped  parsley,  seasoning  slightly. 


Black   Bean  Soup. 


The  night  before  the  soup  is  desired,  soak  the  beans  in  some  water,  and  on  the 
following  morning  drain  off  the  beans  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  some  fresh  water. 
When  boiling,  remove  to  one  side  of  the  fire  and  let  them  simmer  for  six  hours.  Put 
in  with  the  beans  a  bunch  of  sweet  herb,  one  large  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot  and  turnip 
and  a  stalk  or  two  of  celery,  all  of  which  have  been  finely  chopped  and  fried  in  butter. 
Add  a  little  whole  allspice,  cloves,  mace  and  cinnamon,  and  pour  in  some  of  the 
stock.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  and  an  equal  quantity  of  flour  on  a  saucepan  and  stir 
over  the  fire  till  brown,  then  stir  it  into  the  soup  and  keep  it  simmering  for  an  hour. 
Place  some  sliced  lemon  in  a  soup-tureen,  pour  in  the  soup  through  a  fine  hair  sieve 
and  serve  with  a  dish  of  egg-balls. 


White  Bean  Soup. 


Use  three  quarts  of  soup  stock  to  each  breakfast  cupful  of  vegetables,  such  as 
onions,  carrots  and  turnips,  cut  up  into  small  pieces,  having  more  of  the  onions  than 
of  the  rest  of  the  vegetables,  and  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  white  beans.  Boil  for  an 
hour,  then  add  a  very  little  flour  moistened,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  sprinkling 
in  a  little  parsley.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Bonne  Femme  Soup. 

Wash  and  chop  four  heads  of  lettuce  finely,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
one  finely  chopped  cucumber,  one  teacupful  of  chopped  chervil  leaves,  and  a  small 
lump  of  butter,  with  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place  the  lid  on  the 
saucepan,  and  allow  the  contents  to  cool  quickly  for  ten  minutes  or  so;  then  stir  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  pour  in  gradually  three  to  four  pints  of  veal  stock,  and 
stir  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let 
the  soup  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  with  one-half 


24  SOUPS. 

pint  of  cream  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  stir  it  by  degrees  into  the  soup. 
Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  and  serve  with  either  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of 
fried  bread. 

Brunoise  Soup. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  an  equal  quantity  of  sliced  carrots,  onions,  leeks,  turnips  and 
celery,  with  a  good  sized  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  the  vegetables  until  brown;  then 
pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  stock  and  boil  it  quickly  until  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Pour 
in  the  desired  quantity  of  clear  soup  and  boil.  Prepare  some  Italian  paste,  boil  it 
separately,  then  mix  it  with  the  soup.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve  it  with 
croutons  of  fried  bread  or  toast.  If  desired,  boiled  rice  can  be  substituted  for  the 
Italian  paste,  and  rings  of  turnips  fried  in  butter. 


Cabbage  Soup. 


Take  a  good  white  heart  cabbage,  wash  and  trim  off  the  outer  leaves,  chop  it 
into  fine  shreds,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  quart  of  water,  boiling  until  quite 
tender.  Put  the  cabbage  and  the  water  into  a  quart  of  mutton  broth,  adding  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  boil  once  more.  When  ready  to  be  served,  stir  in  a  teaspoonful 
of  fresh  butter  and  two  or  three  small  lumps  of  sugar.  The  soup  should  be  quite 
thick. 


Carrot  Soup. 


After  scraping  six  or  eight  large  carrots,  cut  off  the  red  parts,  and  place  them 
in  a  stewpan,  slice  two  onions,  cut  up  one  head  of  celery  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  or 
so  of  raw  ham,  and  put  them  into  the  stewpan  with  the  carrots,  then  add  one  heap- 
ing tablespoonful  of  butter,  cover  and  let  simmer  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes  ;  then 
add  one  quart  of  stock  and  allow  all  to  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender. 
Drain  the  vegetables  well,  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  put  them  in  with  the  stock  in 
which  they  were  cooked,  and  add  another  pint.  Strain  this  through  a  fine  hair  sieve, 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  gently  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  boils  ;  then  remove  the 
stewpan  to  one  side,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  let  it  simmer  slowly  for  half  an  hour. 
When  ready  to  be  served  add  a  gill  of  cream,  a  little  sugar,  pepper  and  sa-lt. 


Celery  Soup. 


Wash  thoroughly  and  trim  three  or  four  heads  of  celery,  and  boil  them  in  about 
two  quarts  of  white  broth.  When  tender,  take  them  out  of  the  broth,  and  pass 
through  a  sieve.  Mix  one  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  and  one  of  corn  starch  with 
one  pint  of  fresh  milk,  stir  it  into  the  broth,  add  a  lump  of  sugar  and  season  with  one 
pinch  of  salt.  Place  the  celery  in  again,  and  stir  it  until  it'  is  quite  thick,  over  a 
moderate  fire,  and  then  put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  After  it  is  melted  and 
properly  blended,  pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve  hot. 


SOUPS.  25 

Celery  and  Onion  Soup. 

Cut  four  or  five  heads  of  celery  into  pieces  four  or  five  inches  long  ;  wash  them 
free  from  grit,  and  boil  them  for  about  ten  minutes.  Remove,  drain  and  put  them 
into  another  saucepan  with  one  half  pound  of  onions  cut  in  slices,  and  add  a  little 
each  of  chervil  and  tarragon,  one  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  sugar,  and  the  necessary 
quantity  of  rich  stock.  Put  the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  boil  gently  until  the 
celery  is  quite  done ;  then  pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve  very  hot. 

Cheese   Soup. 

Take  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  flour,  one  pint  of  rich  cream,  four- 
tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  a  sprinkling  of  cayenne, 
two  eggs,  and  three  quarts  of  clear  soup  stock.  Stir  the  flour,  cream,  butter, 
cheese,  and  pepper  together  in  a  basin,  place  this  into  another  of  hot  water  and 
mix  until  the  whole  forms  a  firm  smooth  paste.  Break  into  it  two  eggs,  mix 
quickly  and  thoroughly,  and  allow  it  to  cook  two  minutes  longer ;  then  set  it  away 
to  cool.  When  cold,  roll  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut.  When  the  balls  are 
all  formed  drop  them  into  boiling  water  and  cook  gently  for  about  five  minutes.  Put 
them  in  a  soup  tureen,  pour  over  the  boiling  stock  and  serve  with  a  dish  of  finely- 
grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

Chicken  Soup. 

Select  an  old  fowl,  pluck,  singe  and  draw.  Stuff  it  with  a  large  lump  of  fat 
bacon,  sew  up  the  neck  and  vent,  truss,  flour  it  well,  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth  and  put  it  into 
a  saucepan  with  sufficient  warm  water  to  almost  cover ;  add  one  carrot  cut  in  slices 
and  two  onions  and  a  couple  of  cloves.  Cover  the  pan  over  securely ;  allow  the 
water  to  come  slowly  to  a  boil  and  then  simmer  for  three  hours  or  so  according  to 
the  size  and  age  of  the  bird.  Take  it  out,  remove  the  cloth,  put  the  chicken  into  a 
bowl,  cover  it  completely  with  any  desired  sauce  and  let  it  remain  for  a  day.  Break 
the  fowl  up  in  pieces,  put  back  in  the  saucepan  with  the  liquor ;  add  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  well-washed  rice,  a  small  turnip  cut  into  pieces  and  a  blade  of  mace  and  boil 
slowly  for  a  couple  of  hours :  rub  as  much  as  possible  through  a  sieve,  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper. 

Chicken  Soup,  Creole  Style. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  Chicken  Soup,  Holland  style,  adding  half  a  chopped 
green  pepper,  one  ounce  of  lean  raw  ham  cut  in  small  pieces  and  adding  a  sliced 
tomato  to  the  soup  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Chicken  Soup,  Holland  Style. 

Cut  about  a  quarter  of  a  chicken  in  small  pieces  and  slice  half  an  onion  ;  brown 
these  well  together  for  ten  minutes  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and 


26  SOUPS. 

moisten  with  three  pints  of  consomme  ;  add  three  tablespoonsfuls  of  raw  rice,  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  very  little  red  pepper  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley. 
After  boiling  thoroughly  for  twenty  minutes,  remove  the  parsley  and  serve. 

Chicken  Soup,  Portuguese  Style. 

Prepare  as   for  Chicken   Soup,    Holland   Style,    adding  half  a  pint   of  finely 
chopped  cooked  vegetables  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Chicken  Soup,  Queen   Style. 

Take  two  fowls  and  a  knuckle  of  veal  and  prepare  a  soup  ;  strain  it  and  put  it 
back  into  the  saucepan  to  boil.  Cut  off  the  fillets  from  two  fowls  in  the  meantime, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter  and  cook.  Cut  them  up  in  small 
pieces  and  pound  in  a  mortar,  adding  one  ounce  of  rice  boiled  in  broth,  four  ounces 
of  breadcrumbs  and  a  little  salt.  Put  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  and  half  a  pint  of  fowl  broth  and  stir  over  the  fire  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  done,  taking  care  that  the  liquor  does  not  boil.  Rub  the  whole 
through  a  fine  sieve,  warm  it  without  boiling,  and  serve  in  a  tureen  with  small  pieces 
of  toasted  bread. 

Chicken  Soup  with  Leeks. 

Cut  about  a  quarter  of  a  chicken  into  slices  ;  brown  for  ten  minutes  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  half  a  chopped  onion ;  moisten  with  three  pints  of 
consomme,  and  add  three  leeks  cut  in  pieces,  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Serve  after  boiling  thirty  minute, 
and  removing  the  parsley. 

Chiffonnade   Soup. 

Wash,  drain,  and  chop  very  fine  one  quart  of  sorrel,  with  the  green  leaves  of  a 
lettuce-head.  Brown  in  a  saucepan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  sliced  onions 
seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  Moisten  with  three  pints  of  white  broth,  a  handful 
of  peas,  string  beans,  and  asparagus  tops,  and  boil  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  with 
one  ounce  of  butter.  Serve  with  slices  of  toasted  bread. 

Clam   Soup. 

Prepare  the  clams  same  as  for  steamed  clams.  Take  one  quart  of  the  clam 
liquor,  after  it  has  settled,  place  it  in  a  saucepan,  boil,  and  remove  the  scum  ;  then 
add  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  season  with  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  cayenne  and 
onion.  Put  in  the  hard  part  of  the  clams,  which  have  been  previously  removed,  and 
let  it  simmer  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  longer,  then  strain  and  boil  once  more,  and 
while  it  is  boiling  thicken  it  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  cooked  in  one  table- 


SOUPS.  27 

spoonful  of  butter.  Pour  one  pint  of  hot  cream  or  milk,  and  the  soft  part  of  the 
clams,  and  when  they  are  all  done  place  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  crackers  and 
pickles. 

Clear  Soup. 

Skim  off  the  fat  from  two  quarts  of  stock,  pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  put  in  an 
equal  quantity  of  prepared  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  leeks,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and 
parsley,  one-fourth  pound  of  scraped  beef,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  lump  of  salt,  and  the 
whites  and  shells  of  two  eggs.  Stand  the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  whip  the  contents 
till  boiling,  then  stop  whipping,  and  let  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes  over  a  moderate 
fire.  Strain  the  soup  first  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  then  two  or  three  times  through 
a  jelly  bag,  till  it  is  quite  clear.  If  desired,  wine  may  be  added  to  the  soup  before 
serving. 

Clear  Soup  with  Nudels. 

Prepare  the  desired  quantity  of  clear  broth  from  beef,  and  skim  it  well.  Peel 
and  slice  some  carrots,  onions  and  green  leeks,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  good 
sized  lump  of  butter  and  one  young  cabbage  cut  into  thin  shreds,  cover  with  the  lid, 
and  put  them  over  a  very  slow  fire,  where  they  may  stew  gently  until  quite  tender, 
shaking  the  pan  now  and  then.  When  the  vegetables  are  cooked  put  them  into  the 
soup,  and  boil  the  whole  gently  for  thirty  minutes  or  so.  Make  the  nudels  as  fol- 
lows: Slightly  warm  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  and  beat  it  until  creamy,  then  work 
in  with  it  slowly  and  smoothly  three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  three  well 
beaten  eggs.  Strain  the  soup  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan;  when  it  boils  up  again 
put  in  small  quantities  of  the  paste,  moulding  them  into  round  balls  with  the  hands, 
which  should  be  constantly  dipped  in  water,  and  let  it  simmer  for  an  hour  or  so 
longer.  When  ready  pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Colbert  Soup. 

Cut  the  hearts  from  four  or  five  heads  of  celery,  blanch  them  well,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry;  then  pour  in  some  clear  soup  and  boil  it. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  teacupful  of  cream,  move  the  saucepan  to  the 
side  of  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the  eggs  and  the  cream  quickly.  Poach  some  eggs,  put 
them  into  a  soup  tureen,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Corn  and  Tomato  Soup. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  beef  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  three 
quarts  of  water,  and  boil  gently  at  one  side  of  the  fire  for  two  hours.  Skim  the 
liquor,  put  in  several  large  tomatoes,  and  boil  them  for  an  hour.  When  cooked, 
drain  and  pass  the  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  return  them  to  the  soup.  Boil 
a  few  ears  of  corn  in  salted  water  ;  when  cooked,  free  the  corn  from  the  cob  and  put 


28  SOUPS. 

it  in  the  soup  ;  also  put  in  a  small  lump  of  butter  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Boil  the  soup  again,  pour  it  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  with  a  plate  of 
sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Crab  Soup. 

Open  some  small  uncooked  crabs,  and  remove  the  deadman's  ringers  and  sand- 
bags. Cut  the  crabs  in  two,  parboil  and  extract  the  meat  from  the  claws,  and  remove 
the  fat  from  the  back  of  the  shells.  Place  some  ripe  tomatoes  in  a  basin,  scald  and 
skin  them,  and  squeeze  the  pulp  through  a  colander,  keeping  back  the  seeds.  Pour 
boiling  water  over  the  seeds  and  juice  of  the  tomatoes  and  strain.  Put  in  a  saucepan 
one  clove  of  garlic,  one  onion,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
lard,  and  the  pulp  of  the  tomatoes  and  let  it  stew  a  short  time.  Put  the  meat  from 
the  claws  of  the  crab,  and  lastly  the  fat  into  the  soup,  season  with  sweet  marjoram, 
parsley,  lemon,  salt,  and  black  and  red  pepper.  Pour  in  the  water  in  which  the  seeds 
were  scalded,  simmer  for  one  hour  and  thicken  with  breadcrumbs. 

Croute-Au-Pot. 

Cut  two  carrots  and  one  turnip  into  round  slices  and  add  to  these  a  few  short 
pieces  of  celery  stalks  and  a  little  white  cabbage.  Stew  these  for  a  few  minutes  in  a 
covered  stewpan  and  add  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter.  As  soon  as  the  veg- 
etables are  beginning  to  take  color  pour  over  them  three  pints  of  broth,  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Boil  this  slowly  for  one-half  hour  or 
more,  and  then  pour  into  a  hot  tureen  in  which  a  few  pieces  of  toasted  bread  or  rolls 
have  been  previously  placed.  Serve  very  hot. 


Duchess  Soup. 


Put  two  large,  sliced  onions  into  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  fry  them  for  eight  minutes.  Sift  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  fry  it  for 
three  minutes,  stirring  well  to  prevent  its  burning  ;  then  pour  in  slowly  one  quart  of 
boiling  milk,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Strain  the  above  mixture,  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  and  place  it  over  the  fire.  Beat  three  eggs,  with  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  then  pour  them  through  a  strainer  into  the  soup.  Move  the  sauce- 
pan to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  stir  the  contents  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn  the  soup 
into  a  tureen,  and  serve  it  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of  toast. 


Ducks'   Giblet  Soup. 


Take  three  or  four  lots  of  duck's  giblets,  scald,  clean,  cut  them  into  pieces,  and 
put  in  a  stewpan  ;   add  three  quarts  of  water,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  gravy  beef,  two 


SOUPS.  29 

onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  and  simmer  until  the 
gizzards  are  soft.  Strain  the  broth,  add  some  slices  of  onion  fried  brown  in  butter, 
mix  in  sufficient  flour  to  thicken  the  soup,  and  stir  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes  until 
it  boils.  Strain,  skim  and  pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  put  back  the  piece  of  lemon 
peel,  and  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  catsup  and  two  wineglassfuls  of  Madeira  wine, 
and  serve  with  toasted  bread  cut  into  dice. 

Farmer's  Soup. 

Thoroughly  clean  a  bullock's  head,  break  the  bones  and  cut  the  meat  into  small 
pieces.  Put  them  in  a  large  pan  with  some  bacon  fat,  and  fry  them  until  lightly 
browned.  Chop  finely  two  carrots,  a  root  of  celery,  one  turnip,  two  lettuces,  half  a 
cabbage  and  a  few  French  beans  ;  put  them  in  with  the  onions  and  leek,  and  cook 
them  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  moisture  has  evaporated.  Blanch  one  pound  of  raw 
ham,  then  put  it  in  with  the  vegetables,  and  pour  over  some  broth.  When  boiling, 
move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  the  broth  simmer  for  thirty  minutes  or 
so.  Then  put  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  minced  potatoes,  and  boil  them  gently  until 
nearly  cooked,  and  then  put  in  two  shredded  lettuces,  a  handful  of  shredded  sorrel,  and 
one  pinch  of  chopped  chervil.  Finish  cooking  the  soup,  then  remove  the  ham.  Put 
some  slices  of  toasted  bread  into  the  soup  tureen,  pour  in  the  soup  and  serve. 

Fish   Soup. 

Melt  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire  two  ounces  of  butter,  put  in  a  couple  of  sliced  car- 
rots and  a  sliced  onion,  and  fry  them  brown,  then  add  one  quart  of  water,  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  two  or  three  laurel  leaves,  three  or  four  cloves,  a  dessertspoonful  of  sugar 
and  half  a  pint  of  shrimps:  boil  until  the  carrots  are  quite  soft,  then  add  any  cold  fish, 
with  the  bones,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Toast  some  small  pieces  of  bread  and 
put  them  in  the  tureen;  add  half  a  glass  of  white  wine  to  the  soup,  strain  it  over  them 
and  serve. 

Flemish  Soup. 

Put  an  equal  quantity  of  carrots,  onions  and  turnips  cut  into  small  pieces  in  a 
saucepan,  with  a  head  of  lettuce,  two  leeks,  a  head  of  endive,  a  little  chervil  and  a 
lump  of  butter,  one-half  pint  of  either  mutton  or  beef  broth;  boil  all  gently  till  tender, 
stirring  now  and  then,  then  pour  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  broth,  season  it  with  pepper, 
salt  and  sugar  and  let  it  simmer  for  two  hours.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with 
one-half  pint  of  cream,  stir  it  in  with  the  soup,  turn  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Game    Soup. 

Put  the  carcasses  and  remains  of  any  cold  cooked  game  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
or  three  peeled  carrots  and  turnips,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
and  a  moderate  quantity  of  spices.  Cover  the  whole  with  plenty  of  stock  and 


30  SOUPS. 

simmer  gently  for  three  or  four  hours.  When  sufficiently  boiled  strain  the  liquor  into 
a  basin,  pick  off  all  the  meat  that  can  be  got  from  the  bones  and  pound  it  in  a  mor- 
tar, soak  half  its  bulk  of  breadcrumbs  in  a  little  of  the  liquor,  and  when  soft  mix 
them  with  the  meat.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  put  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  strained  liquor,  add  more  seasoning  if  necessary  and  boil.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  and  a  wineglassful  of  sherry,  strain  and  stir  in  with  the  soup,  first  moving 
the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen  and  serve  it  with  a 
plate  of  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 

Gourmet's  Soup. 

Put  a  large  knuckle  of  veal  into  a  saucepan  or  stockpot,  together  with  two 
roasted  fowls  and  any  beef  bones  that  may  be  at  hand,  pour  in  ten  pints  of  beef  stock 
and  boil  for  ten  minutes;  carefully  skim  off  all  the  scum,  prepare  and  add  the  desired 
quantities  of  any  vegetables  that  may  be  in  season  and  a  little  pepper,  and  boil  for 
five  hours,  by  which  time  the  liquor  should  be  reduced  to  about  four  quarts;  then 
skim  off  the  fat,  remove  the  meat  and  bones,  clarify  with  the  white  of  beaten  egg, 
which  has  been  beaten  with  a  small  quantity  of  beef  stock,  and  boil  for  twenty 
minutes  longer.  Strain  through  a  cloth  into  another  saucepan,  and  add  the  red  part 
of  a  carrot  and  a  turnip,  cut  with  a  vegetable  cutter  into  columns  and  afterward  into 
slices  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  also  two  heads  of  celery  and  two  leeks 
cut  into  slices,  all  these  having  been  previously  blanched;  add  also  a  small  quantity 
each  of  sorrel  and  chervil,  and  two  lettuces  cut  up  into  pieces,  and  boil  all  for  another 
hour;  then  put  in  a  little  sugar,  and  finally  about  three  tablespoonfuls  of  blanched 
asparagus.  Place  some  small  croutons  of  fried  bread  or  pieces  of  toast  at  the  bottom 
of  a  soup  tureen,  pour  over  the  boiling  soup  and  serve. 

Green   Pea  Soup. 

Put  four  quarts  of  freshly  shelled  green  peas  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt,  a 
small  onion,  a  few  sprigs  of  mint  and  parsley  tied  together,  and  water  to  cover.  Boil 
the  peas  until  tender,  then  strain,  remove  the  onion,  mint  and  parsley,  and  rub  the 
peas  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into  a  basin.  Have  ready  boiling  as  much  clear  stock 
as  will  make  the  required  quantity  of  soup,  from  which  all  the  fat  has  been  removed, 
put  in  the  peas,  with  about  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  or  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
spinach  green  to  give  it  a  brighter  color,  and  boil  up  again,  then  turn  it  into  a  soup 
tureen  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toast. 

Herb  Soup  with   Parmesan  Cheese. 

Wash  in  plenty  of  water  a  head  of  young  celery,  one  handful  each  of  sorrel, 
chervil  and  chives,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  a  small  quantity  of  tarragon;  drain 
the  herbs  thoroughly  and  cut  them  into  pieces.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three 


SOUPS.  31 

pints  of  clear  broth,  and  boil  gently  till  tender.  Cut  some  slices  of  French  rolls  into 
pieces  about  the  size  of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  dip  them  in  hot  butter,  and  roll  in  finely 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  giving  them  a  good  coating.  Spread  a  sheet  of  white  paper 
over  a  baking  tin,  arrange  the  pieces  of  bread  on  top,  and  bake  until  lightly  browned; 
then  add  them  to  the  soup  when  in  the  tureen. 

Hunter's  Soup. 

Peel  and  cut  into  thin  slices  an  equal  quantity  of  carrots  and  onions,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  head  of  celery  that  has  been  washed  and  cut  into  small  pieces, 
about  two  ounces  of  rather  lean  ham  or  bacon,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  small  lump 
of  butter.  Fry  all  these  until  lightly  browned,  then  dredge  in  a  liberal  quantity  of 
flour  and  fry  that  also  until  browned.  Stir  in  one  pint  of  red  wine  and  two  quarts  of 
broth,  leave  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  simmer. 
Clean  and  lay  three  partridges  on  a  roasting  pan  and  roast  them  in  a  brisk  oven, 
basting  well  with  butter.  When  the  partridges  are  cooked,  cut  the  flesh  off  the  bones 
into  nice  equal-sized  pieces.  Break  the  bones  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  the 
soup,  boil  quickly  for  twenty  minutes,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Season 
the  soup  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  return  it  to  the  saucepan  with  the  pieces  of  par- 
tridge meat,  and  allow  it  to  get  thoroughly  hot  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil  again ;  then  turn  it  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  it  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of 
toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Italian   Soup. 

After  a  cow-heel  has  been  used  for  making  jelly,  cut  the  flesh  off  into  small 
pieces.  Put  one-half  teacupful  of  sage  into  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  water  to 
cook  it,  and  boil  until  dissolved.  Take  a  sufficient  quantity  of  clear  stock  to  make  the 
soup,  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Warm  the  pieces  of  meat 
in  the  soup,  put  the  sago  at  the  bottom  of  a  soup-tureen  with  one  ounce  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  pour  the  hot  soup  over  them  and  serve  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of 
toast,  or  small  croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  fried  to  a  delicate  brown  in  butter. 


Julienne  Soup. 


Peel  some  carrots,  onions,  leeks  and  turnips  and  cut  them  into  thin  strips  of  an 
equal  size  and  length,  either  straight  or  scalloped.  Cut  some  heads  of  celery  into 
pieces  the  same  size.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  place  in  the  prepared 
vegetables  and  toss  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Other  vegetables  may  be 
added,  such  as  cauliflower,  peas  or  asparagus  when  in  season.  Pour  in  over  the  vege- 
tables as  much  clear  chicken  broth  as  may  be  desired  for  the  soup,  and  put  in  any 
nice  pieces  of  cold  roast  chicken  that  may  be  available.  When  boiling,  move  the 
soup  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender.  Put 


32  SOUPS. 

some  thin  sippets  of  toast,  or  croutons  of  fried  bread  into  a  soup  tureen,   pour  the 
soup  over  it  and  serve. 

Lamb  Soup. 

Cut  a  shoulder  of  lamb  into  moderately  large  pieces,  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  an  onion  and  a  piece  of  butter  ;  fry  until  nicely  browned  then  dredge  in  a  table- 
spoonful  each  of  flour  and  curry  powder,  stir  it  all  over  the  fire  for  two  minutes,  then 
pour  in  three  quarts  of  broth,  some  trimmings  of  raw  ham  and  a  bunch  of  parsley. 
When  the  liquor  boils,  remove  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer 
until  the  meat  is  cooked.  When  done,  take  the  pieces  of  lamb  out,  pass  the  cook- 
ing liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  place  in  with  it  half  a  pound  of  boiled  rice, 
and  again  boil  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Bone  the  meat  and  put  it  in  a  soup 
tureen,  thicken  the  soup  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  together  with  a  little 
cream,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  colander  over  the  meat,  and  serve  while  hot 
with  sippets  of  toast  or  small  dice  of  fried  bread  in  a  separate  vessel  such  as  a 
dish  or  plate. 

Lark   Soup. 

Boil  ten  ounces  of  washed  rice  in  broth  till  reduced  to  a  puree,  adding  now  and 
then  a  little  more  broth  to  keep  it  thin.  Singe,  draw  and  clean  two  dozen  larks, 
fry  them  in  a  stewpan,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  allow  them  to  cool,  then  remove 
their  fillets,  and  trim  neatly.  With  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  larks  prepare  a 
little  stock.  When  made,  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into  the  rice  puree.  Place 
the  fillets  in  the  soup,  warm  them  up  again,  and  then  pour  all  into  a  hot  dish.  Add 
one  pinch  of  chopped  green  mint,  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  serve. 

Leek  Soup. 

Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oatmeal  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water,  put  it  in 
a  saucepan,  stir  in  about  one  quart  of  boiling  mutton  broth,  adding  it  by  degrees, 
then  throw  in  as  many  leeks  as  are  required,  and  boil  until  tender  and  the  liquor  is  of 
the  consistency  of  cream.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  beaten  up  in  a  little  of  the  broth,  turn  the  whole  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Lettuce  Soup. 

Cool  and  press  out  all  the  water  from  about  two  dozen  blanched  lettuces,  cut 
them  down  the  centres  without  entirely  separating,  dust  over  salt  and  pepper,  and 
place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  veal  broth,  and  the  same  of  rich  fowl  con- 
somme, add  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  a  clove,  one  onion,  one  carrot,  and  a  little 
thyme  and  bay  leaf.  Cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  place  the  lid  on  the  pan, 
and  boil  the  lettuce  gently  for  two  hours.  Take  them  out,  drain  on  a  cloth,  cut  them 
into  halves,  place  them  in  a  soup  tureen,  pour  in  the  strained  stock  in  which  they 


SOUPS. 


33 


were  cooked,  together  with  three  pints  more  of  boiling  broth,  and  serve  with  pieces  of 
toast  floating  on  the  top. 

Macaroni  Soup. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  macaroni  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and 
an  onion  stuck  with  five  or  six  cloves,  and  boil  until  the  macaroni  is  quite  tender ; 
remove  it,  drain,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  two  quarts  of  good  broth. 
Place  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  the  macaroni  gently  for  about  ten 
minutes,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  break  or  become  pulpy.  Add  a  little  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  pour  all  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Macedoine   Soup. 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  some  thin  slices  of  ham,  then  put  in  an 
equal  quantity  of  turnips,  potatoes  and  onions,  about  three  of  each,  and  cut  up  very 
small  ;  pour  in  some  stock,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  let  simmer  gently  until 
cooked  to  a  pulp.  Pass  the  soup  and  vegetables  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  return  it  to 
the  saucepan,  pour  in  one  pint  of  cream,  and  stir  it  by  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes. 
When  ready  to  be  served,  pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen. 

Milanese  Soup. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  a  piece  of  raw  ham  with  one-half  pound  of  chopped  bacon 
and  about  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  haricot  beans.  Wash  a  savoy  cab- 
bage and  cut  it  into  fine  shreds  and  put  it  in  with  the  above  ingredients ;  then  pour 
in  three  quarts  or  more  of  broth  and  place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire.  Cut  up  enough 
celery  roots  into  small  pieces  to  fill  a  breakfast  cup,  and  after  the  broth  has  boiled 
for  ten  minutes,  put  them  in  with  it.  Then  put  in  the  stewpan  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  beans,  an  equal  amount  of  green  peas  and  asparagus  heads,  three-fourths  of  a  pound 
of  unwashed  and  unbroken  rice,  two  smoked  sausages,  and  one  chopped  tomato. 
Move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  allow  the  contents  to  simmer  until  the 
rice  is  done.  When  soft,  mix  in  with  the  soup  a  fair  quantity  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese.  Take  out  the  ham  and  sausage,  cut  the  sausages  into  small  pieces,  put  them 
into  a  soup  tureen,  pour  the  soup  and  vegetables  over  them  and  serve,  send  to  the 
table  at  the  same  time  a  plateful  of  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Mullagatawny  Soup. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  add  three  or  four  sliced  onions 
and  fry  them  until  done.  Cut  two  rabbits  into  nice  sized  pieces,  put  them  in  with 
the  onions  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  pour  in  three  or  four  pints  of  clear  broth 
and  let  it  boil  gently  for  an  hour.  Take  the  rabbit  out  of  the  saucepan,  pass  the 
onions  and  liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  return  them  to  the  stewpan,  pour  in  one 
quart  of  broth  and  boil  for  an  hour  longer.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  into 


34 


SOUPS. 


frying  panwith  a  little  butter  and  fry  it  until  nicely  browned.  Stir  in  gradually  suf- 
ficient broth  or  water  to  make  a  good  paste.  Stir  the  curry  into  the  soup ;  add  a 
little  lemon-pickle  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  frequently  to 
prevent  the  flour  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan.  Turn  the  soup  into 
a  tureen  and  serve  with  it  a  dish  of  plain  boiled  rice. 

Mussel  Soup. 

Clean  thoroughly  one-half  gallon  of  mussels,  and  toss  them  in  a  saucepan  over  a 
fire  until  the  shells  open.  Take  them  out,  remove  the  weeds,  etc.,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  ounce  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  add  a  little  chopped  parsley 
and  sweet  herbs  ;  put  the  pan  on  the  fire,  pour  in  three  pints  of  rich  gravy,  boil  up, 
remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  the  contents  simmer  until  the  liquor  is 
reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Pour  it  out  into  a  dish  garnished  with  pieces  of 
fried  bread.  Serve  very  hot. 

Pickled  Mussels. 

Take  any  quantity  of  cooked  mussels,  pick  them  out  of  their  shells,  remove  the 
beards,  put  them  into  jars  or  wide-mouthed  bottles,  and  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Strain  some  of  their  liquor  (that  is,  what  comes  from  them  when  being 
cooked)  and  add  to  it  an  equal  quantity  of  vinegar  ;  fill  up  the  bottles  with  the 
liquor,  tie  them  down,  let  them  remain  for  a  day  or  so,  when  the  mussels  will  be 
ready  for  use.  They  may  be  eaten  hot  by  pouring  a  little  of  the  liquor  into  a  sauce- 
pan, with  some  minced  parsley,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  thickening  with  a 
little  butter,  well  rolled  in  flour.  Add  the  mussels,  allow  them  to  remain  in  it  until 
thoroughly  warmed  through,  and  serve. 


Neapolitan  Soup. 


Cut  into  rather  small  pieces,  one-fourth  of  a  raw  chicken,  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  ounce  of  lean  raw  ham,  half  a  green  pepper,  half  of 
a  sliced  onion  and  one  sliced  carrot,  and  stew  gently  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  moisten 
with  three  pints  of  white  broth,  season  with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper  and  add  one  tablespoonful  of  raw  rice.  Let  it  simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes,  or  until  about  half-cooked,  then  put  in  one  ounce  of  macaroni  in  small 
pieces,  and  half  of  a  tomato.  Boil  again  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese  separately. 


Noodle  Soup. 


Beat  well  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  whip  the  white  of  one  egg  separately,  add  it  to  the  rest  and  sift  in 
gradually,  stirring  at  the  same  time,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  finely  sifted  flour  to  make 


SOUPS.  35 

a  stiff  paste.  When  quite  smooth  lay  the  paste  on  a  floured  board  and  roll  out  very 
thinly.  Cut  the  paste  into  diamond-shaped  pieces,  put  them  on  a  cloth  and  keep 
them  in  a  warm  place  until  dry.  Prepare  some  nicely  flavored  clear  soup  and  when 
it  is  boiling  very  fast  throw  in  the  pieces  of  paste  and  boil  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 
Pour  the  soup  in  a  soup  tureen  and  serve  while  very  hot,  with  a  plate  of  Parmesan 
cheese. 

Okra  Soup. 

Cut  in  slices  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pork,  put  it  in  a  fryingpan,  fry  gently  for 
a  few  minutes  and  add  a  sliced  onion  and  one  quart  of  green  okra  pods  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Put  the  lid  on  and  fry  the  okras  for  thirty  minutes.  In  the  meantime  cut 
the  meat  from  a  cold  roast  fowl,  place  the  bones  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water 
and  boil.  Squeeze  out  all  the  pork  fat  from  the  okras  and  onions  and  place  these  in 
the  saucepan  with  the  bones.  Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  the  pan  with  the 
pork  fat,  and  when  it  is  a  rich  brown  add  it  to  the  bones  in  the  saucepan;  cover  over 
the  pot  and  simmer  gently  for  three  hours.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve  into  another 
saucepan,  pour  in  two  quarts  of  stock  and  add  the  fowl  meat  cut  in  pieces  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  turn  the  whole  into  a  tureen 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Onion    Soup. 

Mix  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oatmeal  in  cold  water  until  it  is  quite  smooth, 
then  pour  in  gradually  three  pints  of  liquor  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton  has  been  boiled, 
turn  all  into  a  stewpan  with  several  peeled  and  chopped  onions,  and  cook  until  of  the 
consistency  of  cream,  or  leave  out  the  oatmeal,  substitute  wheat  flour,  and  stir  it  into 
the  soup  while  boiling;  a  few  minutes  before  serving  add  the  yolks  of  two  or  three 
eggs,  removing  the  pan  from  the  fire  before  putting  them  in. 

Spanish  Onion  Soup. 

Peel  three  large  Spanish  onions,  cut  and  separate  them  into  rings,  and  fry  in  a 
little  butter  until  they  are  of  a  light  brown  color  and  quite  tender.  Remove  and 
drain  on  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  water.  Put 
the  pan  on  the  fire,  boil  for  an  hour,  stirring  frequently,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
add  the  finely  sifted  crumb  of  a  roll,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Boil  for  one  hour  longer, 
and  just  before  serving  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  beaten  into  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar  and  a  small  quantity  of  the  soup.  Mix  this  in,  stirring  one  way,  pour  into  a 
tureen  and  serve.  Soup  prepared  in  this  way  will  keep  four  or  five  days. 

Ox-Tail  Soup. 

Cut  the  tails  into  joints,  wash  the  pieces,  and  fry  them  in  a  small  quantity  of 
butter,  next  drain  the  pieces  of  tail  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  ham  bone,  two  or 
three  carrots  and  onions  peeled  and  sliced,  a  head  of  celery,  washed  and  cut  in  convenient 


36  SOUPS. 

sized  pieces,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  blade  of  mace  and  a  few  cloves  and  pepper- 
corns. Cover  the  contents  of  the  stewpan  with  water,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  boil 
and  skim  until  the  scum  ceases  to  rise  ;  then  cover  and  boil  slowly  until  the  tail  is 
quite  tender.  When  ready,  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  ;  strain  and  skim  the 
soup,  return  it  to  the  stewpan,  thicken  with  flour,  and  add  a  wineglassful  of  sherry 
wine,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup.  Put  in  the  pieces  of  meat 
again  and  let  the  soup  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  Turn 
the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toast,  or  croutons  of  fried 
bread. 

Oyster   Soup. 

Blanch  two  or  three  dozen  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  beard  them,  and  cut  them 
into  small  pieces.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
and  mix  well  over  the  fire,  then  stir  in  as  much  fish  stock  as  will  make  the  required 
quantity  of  soup.  Continue  stirring  until  it  boils,  then  put  in  the  oysters  and  their 
liquor,  previously  strained,  add  a  moderate  quantity  of  minced  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  in  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  strain  them  ;  move  the  soup  off  the  fire  and  stir  in  the 
beaten  eggs.  Pour  it  in  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of  toast  or 
croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Parisian  Soup. 

Cut  four  leeks  into  strips,  fry  them  in  a  little  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan, 
pour  over  one  quart  of  well-seasoned  mutton  stock,  add  six  or  seven  boiled  potatoes 
cut  into  slices,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  all  together  until  the 
leeks  are  thoroughly  done.  Fry  a  few  crusts  of  bread,  put  them  in  the  tureen  and 
pour  the  soup  over. 

Parmesan  Cheese  Quenelle  Soup. 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  melt  it  and  add  sufficient 
flour  to  form  a  roux.  Cook  this  for  a  few  minutes,  add  more  flour  to  form  a  soft 
paste  and  let  it  dry  for  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the  fire,  then  add  the  yolk  of  six 
eggs,  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  a  small  quantity  of  chicken  glaze,  salt, 
pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  and  lastly  a  slight  coloring  of  essence  of  spinach. 
Poach  a  small  portion  of  this  quenelle  mixture  to  determine  its  firmness;  should  it  be 
too  thick  add  a  little  broth,  but  if  too  thin  add  a  little  more  yolk  of  egg.  Form  it 
into  quenelles,  put  these  into  a  buttered  saute  pan,  pour  over  some  boiling  stock  and 
poach  them  about  fifteen  minutes. 

Pea    Soup. 

Put  over  the  fire  in  four  quarts  of  water  or  broth  a  ham  bone,  bones  of  roasted 
beef  or  mutton,  two  heads  of  celery  washed  and  trimmed,  four  onions  peeled  and  one 
and  one-half  pounds  of  split  peas.  Let  it  boil  till  the  peas  are  quite  soft,  take  out 


SOUPS.  37 

the  bones  and  rub  peas  and  vegetables  through  a  sieve,  return  them  to  the  soup,  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  boil  it  for  an  hour,  skimming  it  when  required.  Spinach 
or  green  peas  added  when  the  bones  are  taken  out  improves  the  soup  very  much. 

Peasant   Soup. 

Cut  into  square-shaped  pieces  two  carrots,  an  eighth  of  a  cabbage,  half  a  turnip, 
half  an  onion,  one  potato,  and  two  or  three  leaves  of  celery.  Steam  them  for  ten 
minutes  with  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  then  moisten  with  three  pints  of 
white  broth,  and  season  with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
pepper.  Cook  for  thirty  minutes,  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  six  thin  slices  of 
bread. 

Pomeranian  Soup. 

Put  one  quart  of  red  haricot /beans  in  a  saucepan  of  water  with  a  lump  of  salt, 
and  boil  them  until  soft.  Drain  the  beans,  put  half  of  them  on  a  wire  sieve,  and  rub 
them  through  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon.  Put  the  mashed  beans  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  in  gradually  sufficient  broth  to  make  the  soup,  which  will  be  three  or 
four  pints.  A  head  of  celery  cut  small  and  previously  boiled  in  soup  will  greatly 
improve  the  flavor.  Put  in  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  and  sweet  herbs  and  the  whole 
beans,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  all  for  fifteen  minutes  or  a  little 
longer.  Remove  the  bunch  of  herbs  from  the  soup,  pour  it  into  a  tureen,  and  serve 
it  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Potato   Soup. 

Boil  in  their  skins  about  a  dozen  medium-sized  potatoes,  and  when  done,  peel 
and  pass  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  about  the  size  of  an  egg  in 
a  saucepan,  let  it  melt,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  well  browned;  then  add  the  potatoes  with  as  much  well  flavored  stock  as  will 
be  required  for  the  soup;  boil  all  together.  When  done,  pour  the  soup  into  a  soup 
tureen,  and  serve  while  hot  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Beef  Pot-au-feu. 

About  six  pounds  of  any  cut  of  beef  will  do  for  this  ;  tie  the  meat  up  with  a  string, 
and  put  it,  with  the  bone,  in  a  very  large  saucepan  filled  with  sufficient  water  to  cover 
the  meat,  then  place  on  fire  and  boil.  As  the  scum  rises  skim-  off  with  a  skimmer. 
Do  not  allow  the  water  to  quite  boil  ;  this  may  be  regulated  by  adding  a  very  small 
quantity  of  cold  water  from  time  to  time,  which  prevents  bubbling  and  allows  the 
scum  to  rise,  then  salt  to  taste,  adding  a  whole  pepper,  allspice  and  an  onion  stuck 
with  cloves,  another  onion  toasted  almost  black,  a  leek  and  three  carrots  of  average 
size  cut  in  lengths,  two  turnips  cut  in  four,  and  a  bunch  of  herbs,  such  as  bay  leaves, 
thyme  and  marjoram,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  small  handful  of  parsley,  all  tied  to- 


38  SOUPS. 

gether  into  a  bundle.  The  vegetables  should  be  added  gradually  so  as  not  to  check 
the  gentle  simmering,  which  it  is  needful  to  keep  uninterrupted.  Skim  again,  and 
leave  on  stove  to  simmer  for  four  hours.  Strain  and  skim  before  serving  ;  add  a 
little  sugar,  and  more  salt  to  taste,  make  very  hot  and  pour  into  a  soup-tureen  over 
small  slices  of  toasted  bread  without  crusts.  Vegetables  may  be  added  or  not, 
according  to  taste. 

French   Pot-au-Feu. 

Melt  in  a  large  saucepan  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter,  and  place  in  some  pieces 
of  meat  (almost  any  kind  of  trimmings  from  joints  will  do),  which  have  been  well 
washed  or  an  old  fowl  or  rabbit.  Place  the  lid  on  the  pan  and  shake  the  contents 
over  a  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  move  it  to  one  side  and  pour  in  some  boiling 
water,  judging  the  quantity  by  that  of  the  meat,  and  simmer  gently  at  the  edge  of  the 
fire  for  three  or  four  hours,  when  some  vegetables  may  be  added,  such  as  carrots, 
turnip,  leeks,  onions,  celery,  etc.,  all  nicely  pared  ;  season  well,  letting  the  whole 
stew  until  the  vegetables  have  become  quite  tender,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  tied  in  a 
bag  should  be  added.  When  done,  take  out  the  vegetables  and  place  them  in  a 
soup  tureen,  straining  the  liquor  through  a  fine  sieve  over  them,  and  serve  with  a 
plate  of  sippets  of  toast. 

Princess  Soup. 

Separate  the  meat  from  the  bones  of  a  cold  roasted  fowl,  chop  the  meat,  place  it 
in  a  mortar,  and  pound  it  well.  Put  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  fowl  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  pint  of  boiling  veal  stock,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Peel  and 
cut  into  slices  four  large  cucumbers ;  put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  to 
melt ;  then  put  in  two  or  three  sliced  onions,  one-half  pound  of  lean  ham,  one  or 
two  sprigs  of  basil,  two  bay  leaves  and  the  sliced  cucumbers.  Fry  them  over  a  brisk 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  broth,  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an 
hour ;  add  the  pounded  fowl,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sago,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  stir  until  well  mixed ;  pour  in  the  broth  from  the  chicken  bones,  and  boil 
the  whole  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Pass  the  soup  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into 
another  stewpan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  pour  in  one  quart  of  boiling 
milk,  skim  it,  and  season  with  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Put  the  slices  of 
cucumbers  into  a  soup  tureen  with  one-half  pint  of  boiled  green  peas  and  one  teacup- 
ful  of  thick  cream,  pour  in  the  soup,  stir  until  well  mixed,  and  then  serve  it.  Should 
the  soup  be  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  milk  of  broth  before  turning  it  into  the  tureen. 

Quenelle  Soup. 

Pour  one  teacupful  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  set  it  over  the  fire,  add  a  small  lump 
of  butter  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  stir  well  until  it  boils,  add  sufficient  flour  to  form  a  fairly 
thick  paste,  turn  it  out  on  to  a  dish,  and  stand  it  on  a  cool  place  until  cold.  Cut  one- 
half  pound  of  lean  veal  into  small  pieces  and  pound  them  thoroughly  in  a  mortar, 


SOUPS.  39 

adding  by  degrees  two  ounces  of  the  above  paste,  and  three  or  four  ounces  of  butter ; 
beat  well  together,  then  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  the  white  of  one,  and  season 
to  taste  with  grated  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt.  Rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair 
sieve,  adding  a  little  cream,  and  with  the  aid  of  two  teaspoons  form  the  mass  into 
quenelles.  Place  them  side  by  side  in  a  saucepan,  pour  in  carefully  sufficient  boiling 
stock  to  cover  them,  and  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Pour  the  necessary  quantity 
of  well  flavored  stock  or  broth  into  a  tureen,  add  the  quenelles  and  serve  hot.  The 
stock  in  which  they  were  cooked  may  also  be  poured  in  if  desired. 

Rice-and-Pea    Soup. 

Wash  thoroughly  one  teacupful  of  rice,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of 
white  stock,  and  allow  it  to  boil  gently  until  it  is  very  tender.  Put  one-half  pint  of 
young  green  peas  into  another  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  white  stock  and  stew  them 
until  tender.  When  both  the  above  vegetables  are  cooked,  stir  them  together  and 
add  as  much  more  stock  as  will  make  the  required  quantity  of  soup;  when  boiling 
move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  stir  in  quickly  the  yolk  of  an  egg  that  has 
been  beaten  up  with  one  pint  of  cream.  Season  to  the  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
pour  the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  it  with  a  plateful  of  sippets  of  toast  or 
croutons  of  bread  fried  in  butter  to  a  delicate  brown. 

Rice-and-Tomato  Soup. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  well  washed  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  vege- 
table stock,  and  boil  the  whole  until  tender.  When  the  rice  is  cooked,  move  the 
saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  mix  in  the  contents  of  a  can  of  tomatoes  and  one 
ounce  of  butter.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  and  serve  it  with  sippets  of  toast  or 
croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  fried  in  butter. 

Russian  Julienne  Soup. 

Cut  into  strips  one  celery  root,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  one  leek,  two  onions  and 
a  small  cabbage,  and  have  ready;  also  cut  up  a  quantity  of  mushrooms  equal  in  bulk 
to  all  the  other  vegetables.  Put  the  leek  and  onions  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small 
lump  of  butter,  and  fry  them;  do  not,  however,  let  them  take  a  color.  Then  put  in 
the  other  vegetables,  together  with  the  mushrooms,  and  cook  gently  until  the  moisture 
of  the  latter  is  reduced;  pour  over  sufficient  rich  broth  to  moisten,  reduce  this  to  a 
glaze,  pour  over  three  or  four  quarts  of  boiling  broth,  remove  the  saucepan  to  the 
side  of  the  fire,  and  allow  the  contents  to  simmer  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Mix 
well,  stir  in  a  little  finely  chopped  fennel,  and  strain  in  enough  sour  cream  to  thicken; 
turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  and  serve  with  rissoles,  croquettes  or  meat  patties.  This 
latter  is  strictly  the  Russian  way  of  serving  this  soup. 


40  SOUPS. 

Sago  Soup. 

Wash  one-fourth  pound  of  sago,  and  boil  it  for  one  hour  in  plenty  of  water,  ad- 
ding a  small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon,  the  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  mix  with  the  sago  three  or  four  slices  of  lemon,  sufficient  red 
wine  to  make. the  required  quantity  of  soup,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Stir  the  soup  over 
the  fire  until  boiling,  then  remove  the  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon.  Sprinkle  some 
powdered  sugar  and  cinnamon  in  with  the  soup  and  serve  it. 

Sanitary  Soup. 

Trim  off  the  exterior  leaves  of  three  large  lettuces,  wash  the  remainder  and  cut 
them  into  fine  shreds.  Wash  and  shred  a  small  quantity  of  beetroot  leaves,  one 
handful  each  of  chervil  and  celery  leaves,  and  about  two  handfuls  of  sorrel  leaves. 
Put  two  leeks  and  one  sliced  onion  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  and  toss  them 
over  the  fire  until  the  butter  has  melted  and  commenced  to  boil ;  then  throw  in  the 
beetroot,  celery  and  lettuce  leaves  and  fry  them  for  ten  minutes ;  add  the  sorrel  and 
chervil,  pour  in  two  quarts  of  broth,  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  move  the  sauce- 
pan to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  skim  off  all  the  fat.  Put  some  thin  slices  of  bread 
into  a  soup  tureen,  soak  them  with  a  little  of  the  soup  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour 
in  the  remainder  and  serve. 

Solferino    Soup. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  with  some  clear  stock  an  equal  quantity  each  of  new  pota- 
toes, string  and  haricot  beans,  young  carrots  and  green  peas ;  add  a  little  chopped 
celery,  parsley  and  chives.  Let  the  soup  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire  till  the  veg- 
etables are  cooked,  then  put  in  a  little  tomato  puree  and  season  to  taste  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Put  some  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread  in  a  soup  tureen,  pour  the  soup 
over  them  and  serve. 

Sorrel   Soup. 

Wash  well  one-fourth  pound  of  fresh  sorrel  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put 
two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  make  it  hot  ;  then  put  in  the  sorrel  and 
toss  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Pour  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  over  the 
sorrel,  and  stew  it  gently  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  any  kind  of  herbs  desired.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread,  toast  or  fry 
them  in  butter  till  lightly  browned,  and  cut  them  into  small  squares  ;  then  put  them 
in  a  soup  tureen,  pour  the  soup  over  them  and  serve. 

Soubise   Soup. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  thinly  sliced  onions,  four  thin  slices  of  bread,  one-half 
pint  of  milk  and  two  pints  of  water.  When  boiling,  mix  with  the  above  ingredients 


SOUPS.  41 

two  ounces  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Stew  them  slowly  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  the  onions  will  mash  to  a  pulp.  Pass  the  soup  through  a  fine  hair  sieve, 
return  it  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  stir  it  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  thick.  Pour  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toast. 

Spanish  Soup,  Parisian   Style. 

Chop  up  four  large  onions  and  fry  them  in  a  little  butter.  Add  a  small  quantity 
of  sugar,  and  when  the  onions  are  of  a  light  golden  color  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  two  quarts  of  warmed  broth,  a  little  parsley,  and  a  bay  leaf,  and  boil  for  eight 
minutes.  Place  some  thin  slices  of  toast  in  a  tureen,  arranging  them  in  layers, 
sprinkle  with  pepper,  pour  the  soup  over  them  and  serve. 

Tapioca  Soup  with  Tomatoes. 

Put  six  ounces  of  tapioca  into  a  saucepan,  pour  over  one-half  gallon  of  rich 
strained  broth,  boil  for  a  couple  of  minutes,  and  move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire 
and  simmer  gently.  Remove  the  seeds  from  four  or  five  large  tomatoes,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  small  onion,  a  small  sprig  of  parsley  and  a  bay  leaf  tied  up  with 
it,  also  a  few  peppercorns  and  salt  to  taste.  Put  the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  reduce 
the  moisture  of  the  tomatoes,  rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into  the  soup, 
and  serve  when  the  tapioca  is  thoroughly  done  and  dissolved. 

Terrapin    Soup. 

Put  the  shells,  heads  and  trimmings  of  three  terrapins  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty 
of  water  and  boil  them  gently  for  two  or  three  hours,  skimming  it  well  the  first  time 
it  bubbles.  When  all  the  good  has  been  extracted  from  the  shells,  etc.,  strain  the 
liquor  into  a  clean  saucepan,  put  in  the  pieces  of  terrapin  meat  and  boil  them  for  an 
hour;  the  fat  should  be  added  after  the  meat  has  boiled  for  a  short  time.  At  the  end 
of  an  hour  take  out  the  pieces  of  terrapin  and  put  them  on  a  dish  to  cool,  strain  their 
liquor  into  a  bowl;  put  the  bones  that  have  been  separated  from  the  meat  into  two 
quarts  of  water  until  all  the  gelatine  has  dissolved,  then  add  the  strained  liquor,  a  bunch 
of  thyme  and  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  bruised  peppercorns,  two  cloves,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  onion  and  half  a  blade  of  mace,  and  let  it  boil  for  about  thirty  min- 
utes longer.  Cut  the  cold  meat  of  the  terrapin  into  small  square  pieces,  strain  the 
soup  into  a  clean  saucepan,  put  in  the  meat  and  boil  it  up.  Boil  up  one  quart  of 
cream  in  another  saucepan,  put  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  lump  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  hen's  egg  into  a  saucepan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  mixed,  then  pour  in  the  boil- 
ing cream;  strain  this  through  a  strainer  into  the  soup.  The  soup  should  be  served 
as  soon  as  the  cream  is  mixed  with  it. 


42  SOUPS. 


Mock  Terrapin  Soup. 


Chop  into  small  pieces  two  pounds  of  roasted  or  boiled  beef,  put  into  a 
saucepan,  pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  milk  and  wine,  and  add  two  ounces 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  made  mustard,  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  boil  for  about  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  turn  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Tomato  Soup. 

Put  one  quart  of  tomatoes  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  hot  water,  and  bring 
it  to  the  boil.  Rub  together  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  ;  stir  this  into  the  boiling  mixture,  and  season.  Boil  for  fifteen 
minutes  in  all,  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Cut  off  some  thin  slices  of  bread, 
without  their  crusts,  butter  them,  cut  them  into  dice  and  plac  hem  in  a  pan  with 
their  buttered  sides  up,  and  brown  them  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  the  bread  and  soup 
separately. 

Turnip  and  Rice  Soup. 

Peel  and  wash  some  turnips,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  some  washed  rice, 
using  more  turnip  than  rice.  Put  in  a  lump  of  butter  and  sufficient  water  to  cook 
them  and  allow  them  to  simmer  gently  until  tender.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a 
fine  hair  sieve,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  mix  in  some  milk,  and  season  it  with  salt 
and  pepper  ;  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  let  it  simmer 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  ;  then  stir  in  a  lump  of  butter  and  one-half  pint  of 
cream.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve  with  a  plateful  of  croutons  of 
fried  bread  or  sippets  of  toast. 

Turtle  Soup  from   Dried  Turtle. 

Cut  into  small  pieces  two  pounds  of  shin  of  beef,  two  ounces  of  lean  raw  ham, 
and  two  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  or  stockpot.  Put 
four  ounces  of  dried  turtle  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  and  allow  it  to  soak  for  forty- 
eight  hours,  changing  the  water  three  or  four  times;  then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  of 
water  and  simmer  very  gently  for  about  twenty-four  hours.  Place  the  turtle  in  the 
saucepan  with  the  other  meat,  pour  in  the  liquor  in  which  it  simmered;  this  should  be 
sufficient  to  make  the  soup;  bring  it  gently  to  the  boil,  skim  as  required,  add  two  or 
three  onions,  one  carrot,  half  a  head  of  celery,  one  turnip,  all  cut  up  into  pieces,  a 
sprig  each  of  thyme  and  marjoram,  one  teacupful  each  of  basil  and  peppercorns,  a 
blade  of  mace,  six  or  eight  cloves,  and  cayenne  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  or 
simmer  gently  for  eight  hours,  take  out  the  pieces  of  turtle,  pass  the  liquor  through 
a  fine  sieve  into  another  saucepan,  allow  it  to  get  cold,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  add  the 
whites  and  shells  of  three  eggs  beaten  slightly,  to  clarify,  boil  up  once  more,  remove 


SOUPS.  43 

the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  stand  there  for  thirty  minutes,  by  which 
time  it  should  be  quite  clear.  Skim  well,  strain  the  liquor  through  a  napkin  or  very 
fine  sieve  into  another  saucepan,  add  the  turtle,  which  should  have  been  pressed  and 
cut  into  convenient-sized  pieces,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  salt  to  taste, 
boil  up  once  more,  turn  the  whole  into  a  soup  tureen  and  serve.  A  little  caramel 
may  be  added  should  the  soup  not  be  dark  enough.  A  wineglassful  of  Madeira  is 
considered  a  great  improvement. 

Mock  Turtle,  French  Style.    . 

Select  a  fine  fresh  calf's  head  with  the  skin  on,  wash  it  well  in  warm  water,  and 
when  well  cleared  of  blood  boil  it  for  two  hours;  then  take  it  up  and  allow  it  to  get 
cold.  Then  cut  off  in  one  inch  square  pieces  the  fat  parts  of  the  head  which  adhere 
to  the  skin,  and  wash  them  well  in  several  waters.  Pour  two  quarts  of  good  beef 
stock  slightly  seasoned  with  salt,  cayenne  and  truffles  and  mushrooms,  into  the  soup 
pot,  add  five  of  six  onions,  five  carrots  and  five  turnips,  all  cut  into  slices,  a  head  of 
celery  cut  small,  two  or  three  shallots,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
three  bay  leaves,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  half  a  dozen  allspice,  three  blades  of  mace,  two 
slices  of  lean  ham  chopped  small,  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce;  let  the  whole  simmer  for  two  hours 
and  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  in  it  the  pieces  of  calf's  head,  boil  it  up, 
and  pour  it  into  the  tureen  together  with  a  little  strained  lemon  juice,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  white  wine,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  brandy.  Serve  cayenne  and  thin  slices 
of  lemon  with  it. 

Preserved  Green  Turtle  Soup. 

Choose  a  medium-sized  turtle,  cut  off  the  head  and  allow  it  to  bleed  for  twelve 
or  fourteen  hours.  Remove  the  bones  by  opening  the  sides,  cut  the  carcass  into 
pieces,  and  blanch  them  for  three  minutes  in  boiling  water.  Lift  off  the  top  shell  and 
place  it  in  a  saucepan,  covering  it  with  white  broth,  a  handful  of  whole  peppers,  a 
dozen  or  so  of  cloves,  half  a  bunch  of  thyme,  and  six  bay  leaves  (all  the  above  spices 
and  herbs  being  tied  up  in  a  piece  of  cloth).  Add  a  handful  of  salt,  and  cook  for 
about  an  hour.  Drain,  remove  the  bones,  and  cut  the  flesh  in  dice.  Allow  the  broth 
to  be  reduced  to  three-fourths  its  quantity,  then  put  in  the  white  lean  meat,  allowing 
it  to  cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  add  the  green  part  of  the  turtle.  Fill  some 
medium-sized  vessels  with  this,  and  when  cold  pour  hot  lard  over  the  tops.  A  wine- 
glassful  or  so  of  Madeira  wine  may  be  added  to  the  broth  if  desired.  '"\  y 


Turtle  Soup  Stock. 


Prepare  and  cut  up  a  turtle.  Put  the  pieces  of  shell  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire 
with  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  for  two  or  three  hours,  or  until 
the  outer  edges  of  the  shell  are  soft.  As  the  water  boils  away  add  more,  always 


44  SOUPS. 

keeping  the  shells  entirely  covered.  Cut  the  soft  parts  of  the  shells  into  pieces  about 
one-half  inch  square,  place  them  in  an  earthenware  bowl,  cover  over  with  a  wet 
napkin,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted.  Place  the  hard  parts,  of  the  shells 
again  into  water  in  which  it  was  boiled,  put  in  also  one-eighth  of  the  first  weight  of 
the  turtle  of  beef  bones,  and  one-sixteenth  of  the  weight  of  veal  bones,  or  of  calf's 
feet  and  head  as  directed  for  soup,  skinning  the  calf's  head.  On  the  top  of  these  in- 
gredients lay  the  neck  and  fins  of  the  turtle,  and  the  cushions  or  rounded  muscles  at 
top  of  the  turtle  fins,  unless  part  of  the  latter  is  to  be  reserved  raw  for  broiling  as 
steaks  ;  add  enough  water  to  cover  all,  together  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  and 
allow  all  to  boil  gently  for  two  hours  or  more,  or  until  the  bones  of  the  fins  separate 
easily  from  the  flesh.  Remove  any  scum  which  may  rise,  and  keep  the  soup  kettle 
closely  covered.  When  the  fins  and  cushions  are  tender,  take  them  out  of  the  stock, 
separate  the  flesh  from  the  bones,  keeping  it  in  good  sized  pieces,  and  put  it  aside,  in 
a  cool  place  until  wanted,  in  an  earthenware  vessel  covered  with  a  wet  cloth.  Return 
the  bones  to  the  stock,  add  to  it  the  proportions  usually  employed  for  soup  stock,  of 
carrots,  turnips,  onions,  parsley,  sweet  herbs,  whole  cloves,  mace  and  peppercorns, 
and  boil  gently  for  five  or  six  hours,  keeping  the  pan  closely  covered.  After  the 
liver,  legs,  fat  and  intestines  have  been  soaked  in  cold  water  boil  them  in  the  stock, 
the  intestines  being  turned  outward  like  the  reversed  finger  of  a  glove,  and  well 
washed  and  scraped.  When  the  stock  is  boiled  it  should  be  strained  through  a 
folded  towel,  laid  in  a  colander  placed  over  a  large  earthenware  bowl,  until  clear. 
All  those  parts  of  the  turtle  which  have  been  cooked  and  covered  with  wet  cloths 
or  napkins  should  now  be  placed  in  the  bowls  and  covered  with  the  strained  turtle 
stock  ;  all  the  stock  remaining  should  be  saved  for  soup.  Most  turtle  cooks  advise 
leaving  out  the  intestines,  chiefly  because  they  are  more  trouble  to  prepare  than  they 
are  worth. 


Vegetable  Soup. 


Chop  finely  sufficient  onion,  carrot  and  celery  in  equal  proportions  to  fill  five 
breakfast  cups,  also  one  teacupful  each  of  turnip,  cabbage  and  parsnip.  The  cabbage, 
parsnip  and  onion  should  have  been  partially  boiled  for  five  minutes  and  then  well 
drained.  Put  all  the  vegetables  into  a  saucepan,  pour  in  one  quart  of  stock  and  one 
quart  of  boiling  water  and  boil  gently  until  tender ;  then  put  in  with  them  one  break- 
"ast  cupful  of  tomatoes,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  each 
of  salt  and  sugar  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Turn  the  soup  into  a  tureen 
and  serve. 


Vermicelli   Soup. 


Put  from  three  to  four  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  one  and  one-half  pounds  of 
scrag  of  mutton  and  one-half  pound  of  ham,  all  cut  up  into  small  pieces,  into 
a  saucepan  with  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  and  an  onion  stuck  with  one  or  two 
cloves,  and  fry  them  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes.  Put  in  with  the  meat  a  bunch  of 


SOUPS.  45 

sweet  herbs,  one  anchovy,  two  carrots,  three  or  four  blades  of  mace  and  four  heads 
of  celery.  Place  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  and  stand  it  over  the  fire  until  all  the  gravy 
has  been  extracted  from  the  meat.  Drain  the  gravy  into  a  basin,  pour  four  quarts  of 
water  over  the  meat  and  boil  slowly  until  reduced  to  three  pints.  Strain  the  soup  into 
another  saucepan,  add  one-fourth  pound  of  vermicelli,  a  head  of  celery  cut  into  small 
pieces  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper  and  salt.  Put  a  French  roll  into  a  soup 
tureen,  pour  a  small  quantity  of  the  soup  on  it,  let  it  soak  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
pour  in  the  remainder  of  the  soup  and  serve. 

Vermicelli, -Queen   Style. 

Blanch  the  vermicelli  in  boiling  water,  them  drain  it ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  rich  broth,  season  to  taste  and  let  it  boil  gently  until  cooked.  Beat  well  the 
yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  mix  a  small  quantity  of  cream  with  them  ;  pour  them  into  the 
soup  and  stir  them  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  allow  them  to 
boil.  Turn  the  vermicelli  into  a  tureen  and  serve  it  with  a  plate  of  sippets  of  toast. 

Vermicelli  Soup  with  Tomato  Puree. 

Prepare  three  quarts  of  fish  stock,  as  for  thick  soup  ;  when  boiling  move  it  to 
the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Make  one  and  one-half  pints 
of  fresh  tomato  puree.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  soup,  put  in  a  bunch  of  parsley  and 
sweet  herbs  and  the  tomato  puree,  then  allow  it  to  simmer  for  twenty  minutes 
longer.  Boil  gently  in  salted  water  one-half  pound  of  vermicelli.  Strain  the  soup, 
put  in  the  vermicelli,  skim  off  all  the  fat  and  boil  up  again.  Turn  the  soup  into  a 
tureen,  and  serve. 

White  Soup. 

Put  six  pounds  of  lean  gravy  beef  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  gallon  of  water 
and  stew  it  gently  until  all  the  goodness  is  extracted,  then  take  the  beef  out.  Put 
into  the  saucepan  with  the  liquor  six  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  one-fourth  pound  of 
ham,  four  onions  and  four  heads  of  celery,  all  cut  into  pieces,  a  few  peppercorns 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Stew  all  these  gently  for  seven  or  eight  hours,  skim- 
ming off  all  the  fat  as  it  rises  to  the  top.  Mix  with  the  crumb  of  two  French  rolls 
two  ounces  of  blanched  and  pounded  sweet  almonds,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
one  pint  of  cream  and  a  little  stock,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  pass  them  through  a 
silk  sieve,  using  a  wooden  spoon  in  the  process.  Mix  the  cream  and  almonds  with 
the  soup,  then  turn  it  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Windsor  Soup. 

Boil  three  calf's  feet  for  one  hour  in  two  quarts  of  broth  and  one  quart  of 
water  ;  when  done  and  cold,  cut  them  into  pieces,  moisten  with  three  or  four  pints  of 
their  own  broth,  adding  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley,  one-half  wineglassful  of 


46  SOUPS. 

Madeira  wine,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Boil  again 
for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  ;  darken  the  soup  with  a  little  caramel 
browning,  and  when  serving  add  twelve  crayfish  quenelles. 

Wine  Soup. 

Put  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  and  the  whites  of  six  into  an  enameled  saucepan 
and  beat  them  thoroughly,  pour  in  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water,  add 
six  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  the  grated  yellow  rind  and  strained  juice  of  a  large  lemon, 
and  one  and  one-half  pints  of  white  wine.  Whisk  the  soup  over  a  gentle  fire  till 
frothed  and  on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  move  it  off  immediately,  turn  it  into  a  soup 
tureen  and  serve  with  a  plate  of  small  sponge  cakes  or  fancy  biscuits.  The  soup  may 
be  served  as  soon  as  ready,  as  the  froth  will  soon  go  down. 

Soup  with  Noques. 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  to  melt,  add  four  or  five  ounces  of  flour 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  nicely  browned.  Pour  in  gradually  with  the  flour  three 
quarts  of  rich  broth,  continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  broth  boils,  then  move 
the  stewpan  slightly  to  the  side  of  the  fire.  Warm  one-half  pound  of  butter  in  a  basin 
and  work  it  with  a  spoon  until  creamy,  then  mix  with  it,  one  at  a  time,  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two.  Beat  the  butter  and  eggs  until  light  and  frothy, 
then  sift  in  slowly  six  ounces  of  flour,  work  the  whole  to  a  smooth  paste,  season  it 
with  nutmeg  and  salt  and  add  the  whipped  whites  of  two  more  eggs.  Try  the  consis- 
tency of  the  above  mixture  by  poaching  a  small  quantity  of  it  in  boiling  water,  stir  in  a 
little  flour,  if  too  light,  and  if  too  thick  then  stir  in  a  little  butter.  Divide  the  mixture 
into  small  equal  portions  and  shape  them  into  round  balls.  Drop  the  noques  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water,  give  them  one  boil  up,  then  move  the  pan  to  the  side 
of  the  fire  and  boil  again  until  firm.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  a  little  cream, 
skim  the,  fat  off  the  soup,  put  in  the  beaten  eggs  and  stir  them  by  the  fire  till  thick. 
The  soup  should  not  boil  after  the  eggs  are  added.  Drain  the  noques,  put  them  into  a 
soup  tureen,  strain  the  soup  over  them  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  and  serve  at  once. 


Soup  Without  Meat. 


Cut  four  large  onions  into  slices,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pound  of 
butter  and  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Put  in  with  the  onions  some  celery 
cut  into  small  pieces,  a  bunch  of  chopped  parsley  and  some  finely-shredded  cabbage 
lettuces;  stir  these  ingredients  over  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  put  in  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  crushed  dry  biscuits  and  two  quarts  of  boiling  milk  and  water  mixed  in 
equal  quantities.  Season  the  soup  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  let  it  simmer  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  an  hour.  Beat  two  eggs  well  and  stir  them  in  the  soup  when 
taken  from  the  fire.  Serve  with  a  plateful  of  sippets  of  toast. 


Fish. 


Anchovies. 

These  delicious  little  seafish  come  principally  from  the  Mediterranean  ;  those 
esteemed  most  highly  come  from  Gorgona.  These  fish  are  also  found  in  small  shoals 
along  the  coast  of  Great  Britain,  but  there  are  no  specific  fisheries  for  them.  They 
are  caught  at  night  by  nets,  the  fish  being  attracted  by  lights  attached  to  the  boats. 

To  preserve  them  for  exportation,  the  heads  are  cut  off  and  the  bodies  cleaned. 
They  are  then  placed  in  brine,  packed  in  barrels  and  afterwards  put  up  in  bottles  for 
the  market.  Dutch  anchovies  may  be  known  by  their  having  the  scales  removed  ; 
and  the  French  anchovies  by  their  larger  size  ;  and  both  by  the  pale  tint  of  their 
flesh.  This  peculiar  coloring  is  sometimes  counterfeited  by  artificial  means  in  sprats 
or  sardines.  It  would  be  well  to  note  that  the  color  of  the  pickle  of  the  best  fish 
on  being  filtered,  is  of  a  clear  pink,  without  sediment  ;  whereas  the  inferior  sorts  are 
generally  turbid  and  red  only  when  stirred,  with  also  a  heavy  red  sediment. 

To  Serve  Anchovies. 

They  must  be  thoroughly  cleaned,  boned  and  trimmed.  To  open,  they  should 
be  soaked  in  cold  water  for  a  couple  of  hours,  taken  out  and  dried  on  a  cloth,  and  the 
backs  divided  by  the  points  of  the  two  thumbs,  rather  than  with  a  knife,  which  should 
never  touch  them  unless  it  is  electro-plated  or  of  silver.  Lay  the  halves  neatly  on  a 
dish,  and  garnish  with  finely  chopped  white  of  egg  and  parsley  ;  pour  salad  oil  over  all. 

Stuffed  Anchovies. 

Split  open  some  anchovies,  wash  them  well  in  white  wine  and  bone  them.  Mince 
a  little  cooked  fish  of  any  kind,  place  in  a  basin  with  very  fine  breadcrumbs,  and 
make  it  into  a  paste  by  adding  yolk  of  eggs.  Stuff  the  anchovies  with  this  mixture, 
dip  into  frying  batter,  plunge  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  and  fry  to  a  light  color. 
Take  out  when  done,  drain  and  arrange  on  the  dish,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  fried 
parsley. 

Anchovies  with   Olives. 

Thoroughly  wash  and  cut  off  the  fillets  of  some  anchovies,  and  chop  them  up 
very  fine  with  a  little  parsley  and  onion  ;  put  the  whole  into  a  mortar  and  pound  it 
well,  adding  a  little  cayenne  for  seasoning.  Cut  a  number  of  Spanish  olives  in  halves, 
take  out  the  stones,  and  fill  them  with  the  pounded  anchovy  mixture.  In  the  mean- 

47 


48    .  FISH. 

time  cut  some  small  rounds  of  bread  about  an  inch  in  thickness  and  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  diameter,  scrape  out  a  little  from  the  center  of  each,  put  them  into  a  frying- 
pan  with  butter,  and  fry  to  a  nice  light  golden  color  ;  then  take  out  and  drain,  and 
arrange  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish  ;  put  an  olive  in  each,  serve  with  a  little 
mayonnaise  sauce  poured  over  and  around  the  foot  of  the  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Baked   Bass,   Plain. 

Scale,  wash  and  thoroughly  clean  a  bass,  leaving  the  head  intact,  if  to  be  sent 
to  table  whole ;  then  make  a  stuffing  of  two  cupfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  one  teacupful 
of  butter,  the  rind  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  minced  fine,  and  two  or  three  sprigs  of 
parsley,  green  thyme  and  marjoram.  Season  this  mixture  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Beat  up  a  couple  of  eggs,  a  very  little  water,  and  mix  the  stuffing  with  it.  Fill  into 
the  fish  and  sew  up  when  stuffed.  Score  both  sides  with  a  sharp  knife  by  cutting 
down  to  the  bone,  and  put  a  slice  of  salt  pork,  cut  thin,  into  each  incision ;  then  bake 
in  a  pan  and  baste  with  stock  and  seasoning.  Place  a  little  tomato  puree  or  tomato 
sauce  into  the  pan  with  the  gravy,  after  removing  the  fish,  and  allow  it  to  come  to 
a  boil ;  then  skim  and  strain  and  serve  in  a  tureen  with  the  fish.  Care  should  be 
taken  not  to  break  the  fish  when  transferring  it  from  the  pan  to  the  dish.  Some  con- 
sider a  glass  of  white  wine  added  to  each  half  pint  of  sauce  an  improvement. 

Boiled  Bass. 

Dress  a  bass,  wash  well  and  drain  it,  and  place  in  a  saucepan  of  warm  water, 
salted,  and  set  over  the  fire.  When  the  water  boils  remove  to  one  side,  and  simmer 
gently  for  twenty  minutes,  by  which  time  the  fish  should  be  quite  done.  Let  it  re- 
main in  the  liquor  until  wanted,  then  take  out,  drain  and  place  on  a  napkin  spread 
over  a  dish,  garnish  with  boiled  potatoes  and  sprigs  of  parsley  and  serve. 

Broiled   Bass. 

Clean  a  bass,  split  it  lengthwise  in  halves,  cutting  each  half  again  into  two  or 
three  pieces ;  sprinkle  over  with  flour  and  place  on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  fire,  broil- 
ing them  very  gently,  brush  over  continually  with  butter  to  prevent  burning.  When 
of  a  light  brown  color,  place  the  pieces  of  fish  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish  and 
serve. 

Fried   Bass  with   Bacon. 

Wash,  scale  and  carefully  clean  the  bass,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  roll 
them  in  flour  and  let  them  lie  in  it  until  ready  to  be  co.oked,  then  drop  into  a  pan  of 
very  hot  lard  and  fry  until  nicely  browned.  Then  fry  in  a  separate  pan  four  slices  of 
streaky  bacon ;  one  piece  for  each  piece  of  the  fish  and  lay  the  slices  of  bacon  one 
on  each  piece  of  fish.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  serve  with  mashed  potatoes. 


FISH.  49 

Fried   Black   Bass. 

Scale  and  clean  the  requisite  number  of  black  bass,  roll  well  in  flour,  put  in  a  fry- 
ingpan  with  hot  fat  to  about  half  their  height  and  fry  until  done.  Place  on  a  dish, 
garnish  with  potatoes,  slices  of  lemon,  parsley,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Bloaters. 

Scrape  and  clean  enough  bloaters  and  wipe  dry  on  a  towel  ;  split  down  the  belly 
from  head  to  tail  and  lay  them  flat  upon  a  buttered  gridiron,  over  a  clear  fire,  broiling 
for  about  six  minutes,  turning  so  as  to  cook  both  sides.  When  they  are  done,  place 
them  on  a  dish  with  a  little  butter  over  them  and  serve. 

Baked  Bluefish,  Italian  Style. 

Score  and  scale  the  requisite  amount  of  bluefish  and  place  it  in  a  buttered  pan 
with  half  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor,  and 
a  little  very  finely  chopped  onion,  six  chopped  mushrooms,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  ;  cover  the  dish  with  buttered  paper  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  remove  and  lay  on  a  dish.  Place  the  liquor  in  a  stewpan,  add  a  gill  of 
Spanish  sauce,  with  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  and  reduce  for  two  minutes.  Pour 
the  sauce  over  the  fish,  with  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  serve,  with  fancy 
croutons  of  bread. 

Bouillabaisse. 

Place  a  sufficient  quantity  of  mixed  fish,  such  as  soles,  whiting,  gurnet  and  flound- 
ers into  a  saucepan,  having  cut  them  into  pieces,  and  add  some  sliced  onions,  one  or 
two  sliced  carrots,  three  shallots,  two  unpicked  cloves  of  garlic,  a  bunch  of  thyme  and 
parsley,  five  or  six  cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  capsicum,  a  little  olive 
oil,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  into  the  above  mixture  a  couple  of  quarts  of 
water  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour,  the  lid  being  placed  on  the  pan.  When  suffi- 
ciently cooked  drain  the  fish  and  arrange  on  a  hot  dish.  Then  mix  a  teaspoonful  of 
saffron  with  the  soup  and  pass  through  a  pointed  strainer  into  a  soup-tureen.  Serve 
the  soup  with  the  fish  and  a  plate  of  croutons  of  fried  bread  or  sippets  of  toast. 

Baked   Carp. 

Clean  a  carp  and  place  it  in  a  bowl  of  salted  cold  water  and  vinegar  to  let  it  dis- 
gorge. Remove,  drain  and  dry  it,  stuff  with  well-seasoned  forcemeat,  sew  up  the  belly, 
brush  it  with  egg,  dredge  breadcrumbs  over  and  put  on  a  few  small  lumps  of  butter 
here  and  there.  Place  the  fish  in  a  deep  earthenware  dish  with  two  onions  cut  in 
slices  and  a  few  sweet  herbs,  pour  over  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  sweet  wine  and 
stock,  mixing  it  with  one  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce  or  essence,  put  the  dish  in  a 


50  FISH. 

moderate  oven  and  bake  for  an  hour.  Dress  the  carp  carefully  on  a  dish  and  keep 
it  hot,  then  strain  the  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour  to 
thicken  and  stir  continually  over  the  fire  until  it  is  done ;  then  mix  in  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  this  into 
a  sauceboat  and  serve. 


Baked   Carp,  -Mariniere. 


Take  a  carp  weighing  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds,  scale,  draw  it,  and  cut  a  little 
off  the  fins  and  fill  the  inside  with  forcemeat.  Remove  a  little  of  the  skin  from  the 
back,  leaving  the  flesh  exposed,  and  lard  this  with  fat  bacon ;  then  truss  the  head ; 
place  the  fish  on  a  drainer  in  a  long  fishkettle,  season  it  and  fill  the  kettle  to  about 
half  the  height  of  the  fish  with  court  bouillon  and  white  wine  in  the  proportion  of  one 
quart  of  the  former  to  one-half  pint  of  the  latter.  Place  the  kettle  on  the  fire  and  let 
the  liquid  boil  for  five  minutes;  then  remove  the  carp  and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven 
to  bake  for  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  basting  it  often.  When  done,  take  it  out, 
drain,  and  pour  its  stock  through  a  sieve,  putting  the  fish  back  into  the  kettle  again 
to  keep  hot.  Prepare  a  little  brown  sauce  with  the  stock,  and  when  clarified  and 
strained,  put  it  into  a  flat  stewpan  with  a  handful  of  mushroom  trimmings ;  pour  in  a 
wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  reduce ;  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  adding  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  good  butter.  Place  the  carp  on  an  oval  dish  and  garnish  it  on  both 
sides  with  a  bunch  of  quenelles  of  whitings,  one  of  mushrooms  and  one  of  blanched 
olives ;  glaze  the  larding  with  a  paste-brush  and  pour  a  little  sauce  over  the  other 
parts  of  the  fish  and  a  little  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Put  the  soft  roes  into  the 
balance  of  the  sauce  and  serve  in  a  sauceboat. 

Boiled    Carp. 

Clean  and  wash  one  or  two  carp,  place  them  in  a  saucepan,  pour  over  sufficient 
rich  beef  gravy  to  cover,  and  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion,  four  cloves,  and 
salt  to  the  taste.  Place  the  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire  and  cook  gently  for  an  hour 
or  until  the  fish  is  done.  Pour  into  a  saucepan  a  pint  of  strong  beef  gravy,  with  two 
wineglassfuls  of  white  wine;  allow  this  to  get  hot,  and  add  the  strained  juice  of  half 
a  lemon.  Place  the  carp  on  a  dish,  pour  over  the  hot  lemon-flavored  liquor  and  serve 
promptly. 

Pickled    Carp. 

After  cleaning  a  carp  make  as  small  an  opening  as  possible,  tie  up  the  head,  put 
the  fish  in  a  fish  kettle,  pour  over  boiling  vinegar,  and  after  a  few  minutes  add  a  tum- 
blerful of  red  wine,  and  a  seasoning  of  two  carrots  and  three  onions  cut  into  slices, 
and  a  small  quantity  each  of  sage,  thyme,  laurel  leaves,  parsley,  cloves  and  garlic,  and 
then  set  the  kettle  on  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  simmer  gently  for  an  hour.  Let  the  fish 
remain  in  this  until  it  is  quite  cold,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 


FISH.  51 

Stewed  Carp. 

Take  a  large  carp,  cut  out  the  gills,  but  do  not  remove  the  tongue;  then  make 
as  small  an  opening  in  the  under  edge  as  possible  in  order  to  open  it,  and  wash  it  out 
thoroughly.  Boil  one-half  pint  of  vinegar,  and  when  it  is  boiling  pour  it  over  the  fish 
that  the  scales  may  drop  off  easily.  Wrap  the  carp  in  a  cloth  and  stew  it  in  a  court 
bouillon.  When  done  drain  it  and  serve  with  capers  and  anchovy  sauce,  or  without 
sauce  after  soup. 

Catfish  Stewed  with   Tomatoes. 

Slice  the  fish,  each  weighing  about  two  ounces,  and  fry  these  with  a  very  little 
butter  or  dripping.  When  they  are  partly  browned  and  about  half  cooked,  add  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  water,  one  or  two  minced  green  onions,  and  a  pod  of  red  pepper. 
Strain  a  can  of  tomatoes  over  a  colander  on  to  the  fish,  and  cook  together  for  half  an 
hour,  Serve  with  pieces  of  dry  toast. 

Baked   Codfish. 

Take  a  fresh  cod  and  prepare  it  by  tying  up  the  head  with  string  and  filling  the 
inside  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  put  the  fish  belly  downward  on  a  buttered  drainer 
in  a  fish  kettle,  and  pour  over  it  a  mixture  made  as  follows:  Melt  two  pounds  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  three  quarts  of  chopped  mushrooms,  two  blanched  and 
chopped  shallots,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  a 
crushed  clove  of  garlic,  and  season  to  taste ;  all  of  these  being  partly  cooked  before 
used.  Pour  over  the  fish  a  pint  and  a  half  of  white  wine,  and  bring  it  quickly  to  a 
boil,  then  let  cook  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  basting  the  fish  every  ten  minutes 
with  the  liquor.  When  the  flesh  is  firm  put  the  fish  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  it  half 
the  fish  stock,  putting  the  rest  in  a  sauce-boat.  Any  fish  sauce  may  accompany  it. 

Baked   Codfish  with   Cream. 

Take  the  tail  of  a  cod,  clean  it,  and  boil  in  salted  water  with  a  little  parsley. 
When  it  is  done  wipe  and  open  down  the  back,  remove  the  bones  and  break  the  meat 
into  pieces.  Place  these  pieces  in  layers,  and  between  each  one  a  little  bechamel 
sauce  slightly  reduced  with  cream,  also  a  piece  of  butter  and  nutmeg.  Sprinkle  a 
few  breadcrumbs  on  top  and  brown  it. 

Codfish    Balls. 

Take  the  bone  from  a  piece  of  fish,  make  it  weigh  six  ounces,  soak  in  cold 
water,  put  in  a  saucepan  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Pound  it  to  a  pulp,  being  careful 
that  all  the  bones  are  removed.  Boil  a  half  pound  of  potatoes  and  when  done  mash 
them  up  with  the  fish,  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and  one  egg.  Make 
this  into  balls  and  fry  to  a  light  brown. 


52  FISH. 

Boiled    Codfish   with    Cream    Sauce. 

Take  out  the  inside  of  a  cod  by  the  white  skin  of  the  belly,  taking  care  to  remove 
all  blood.  Place  the  fish  in  a  kettle  with  salted  cold  water  and  boil  fast  at  first  and 
then  slowly.  When  done  take  out  and  skin.  Pour  over  it  sauce  made  as  follows: 
A  quarter  pound  of  butter  put  in  a  stew  pan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  moisten 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of 
anchovies;  place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  let  thicken  but  not  boil. 

Boiled  Codfish  with  Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Take  the  gills  from  a  cod,  also  the  entrails  where  the  gills  form  a  hole,  chop  off 
the  fins  and  sprinkle  over  the  fish  a  little  salt,  also  putting  some  inside,  then  place  in 
a  cold  place  and  let  it  remain  for  a  few  hours.  Take  it  up,  wash  off  the  salt,  tie  the 
head  with  string,  put  it  in  a  bowl  of  water  and  milk  and  let  it  disgorge  for  about 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Take  it  out  and  drain,  put  belly  downward  on  a  drainer 
in  a  fish  kettle  with  enough  cold  salted  water  to  cover  it,  add  three  cupfuls  of  milk 
and  boil  slowly  until  the  cut  begins  to  open. 

Cleaning  Codfish. 

It  is  usual  first  to  remove  the  gills  by  cutting  their  connection  with  the  rest  of 
the  head  and  shoulders  and  pulling  them  out.  Lay  the  fish  on  his  back,  open  the 
belly  by  cutting  down  the  center,  remove  the  inside,  carefully  preserving  the  liver  and 
roe,  and  leaving  the  sounds  uninjured.  If  the  fish  is  to  be  cooked  whole  it  should  be 
"  scored  "  to  the  bone  transversely  at  intervals  of  two  inches  ;  but  if  it  is  to  be  cooked 
in  pieces,  cut  it  in  slices  three  inches  thick  and  soak  the  fish  in  water  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour.  Cod  is  crimped  by  being  cut  up  and  notched  with  a  knife  while  partly  alive; 
but  some  cooks  object  to  this.  The  following  recipes  for  cooking  cod  are  carefully 
selected  as  likely  to  give  sufficient  variety  to  suit  all  tastes  and  to  all  purposes.  The 
fish  is  usually  divided,  by  the  fishmonger,  into  "  head  and  shoulders,"  "  middle  "  and 
"tail;"  but  although  preference  may  be  given  to  the  middle  cut,  the  tail  is  quite  as 
good,  although  not  so  fleshy,  and  the  head  yields  in  quantity  the  gelatine  that  makes 
excellent  soup.  Codlings  are  for  the  most  part  amenable  to  the  same  treatment. 

Fillets  of  Codfish,    Hollandaise. 

Take  any  number  of  fillets  of  cod,  put  in  a  buttered  stewpan,  add  one  gill  of 
stock,  season,  sprinkle  a  little  fine  parsley  over,  and  set  in  the  oven,  or  on  the  stove, 
with  a  buttered  paper  over.  When  done  put  them  upon  a  dish,  bordered  with  mashed 
potatoes. 

Fried    Cod. 

Cut  a  cod  in  slices,  dust  with  pepper  and  salt  and  let  remain  for  two  hours. 
Wipe  the  slices  dry,  dip  in  yolk  of  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs,  mix  with  flour,  season 


FISH.  53 

and  put  in  pan  with  plenty  of  fat  and  fry  quickly.     The  tail   is  best  for  frying,  and 
after  removing  the  skin  and  bones,  cut  in  slices  and  press  with  a  cutlet  bat. 

Fried    Codfish,  Maitre    d' Hotel. 

Trim  a  few  fillets  of  cod  and  dip  them  in  flour.  Rub  some  breadcrumbs  through 
a  wire  sieve,  whisk  two  whole  eggs,  season,  and  dip  the  fillets  in  the  eggs,  roll  in  the 
breadcrumbs  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Serve  with  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  in  a  boat. 

Hashed   Codfish. 

Take  a  cupful  of  cooked  cod,  pick  in  pieces  and  soak  in  cold  water  for  twelve 
hours.  Boil  some  potatoes  and  add  them  to  the  finely  chopped  fish,  a  little  at  a  time, 
put  in  a  pan  and  stir.  Heat  some  butter,  put  the  hash  in  it  and  let  it  cook  gently. 

Matelote  of  Codfish. 

Remove  the  head  and  bones  of  a  fish,  fill  the  insides  with  stuffings  made  from 
half  a  pint  of  oysters,  one  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  a  little  pepper,  a  little  salt,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  egg,  half  an  onion  and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley.  Take  six  slices  of  bacon,  put  three  on  the  bottom  and  three  on  the  top  of 
the  fish  and  bake  for  an  hour,  basting  with  butter  and  gravy  made  from  the  bones 
boiled  in  water. 

Stewed   Codfish. 

Take  a  piece  of  boiled  fish,  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  and  pick  into  flakes  ; 
put  these  into  a  stew  pan  with  a  little  butter,  pepper,  salt,  minced  parsley,  cayenne, 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Put  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  contents  of  the  pan  are 
quite  hot  the  fish  is  quite  ready  to  serve. 

Baked   Cod's   Head. 

Trim  and  wash  well  the  head  of  a  cod,  fill  the  gills  with  veal  stuffing,  put  the 
head  in  a  baking  dish,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  also  add  a  little  parsley  ;  moisten 
with  a  pint  of  sherry  and  a  little  catsup,  put  a  buttered  paper  over  and  set  in  the 
oven  to  bake.  The  fish  must  be  well  basted  while  baking,  and  a  pint  of  stock  may 
be  added  to  keep  it  moist.  When  the  head  is  nearly  done  sprinkle  it  over  with  fine 
raspings  of  bread,  and  when  it  is  quite  done  put  it  upon  a  dish.  Add  two  gills  of 
brown  sauce  to  the  liquor  in  the  baking  pan,  strain  in  a  stewpan,  and  put  in  a  little 
essence  of  anchovy,  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  lemon  juice  ;  boil  the  sauce  for 
a  few  minutes,  pour  on  the  cod  and  serve. 


54  FISH. 


Salted   Cod,  Biscayan   Style. 


Bone  two  pounds  of  cod  and  soak  in  cold  water  for  a  day,  place  in  a  saucepan 
with  fresh  water  and  simmer  till  boiling,  then  add  fresh  water  and  let  boil  again  ; 
take  out  and  scale.  Fry  two  chopped  onions  and  one  green  pepper  in  a  gill  of  oil 
for  five  minutes,  add  a  sliced  tomato,  one  clove  of  bruised  garlic  and  one  chili  pep- 
per. Moisten  these  with  three  pints  of  broth,  add  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  and  one  pint  of  peeled  potatoes,  and  cook  for  forty 
minutes  ;  then  add  the  cod  and  boil  again  for  five  minutes. 

Boiled  Salted  Cod. 

Steep  two  pounds  of  salted  cod  and  put  in  tepid  water  for  six  hours;  then  take  it 
out  and  place  it  for  the  same  length  of  time  in  cold  water,  changing  about  every  half 
hour.  Put  the  fish  in  a  gallon  saucepan  filled  with  water,  and  when  it  boils  put  on  the 
side  and  let  simmer  for  five  minutes. 

Boiled   Salted   Cod  with   Egg   Sauce. 

Chop  fine  one  pound  of  freshly-salted  cod  that  has  been  soaked,  boiled,  and 
allowed  to  get  cold.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  corn  meal  with  one  cupful  of  milk,  and 
stir  on  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  mashed  potatoes  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two 
beaten  eggs  and  pepper  to  taste. 

(2.)  Boil  two  eggs  for  ten  minutes,  cut  them  into  large  dice,  and  put  in  one 
pint  of  melted  butter  sauce.  When  the  fish  is  done  pour  this  over  it  and  serve. 

Salted   Cod  with   Brown   Butter. 

Soak  the  fish  in  cold  water  for  two  days,  then  scrape  off  the  scales,  clean  and 
wash  thoroughly,  and  place  over  a  slow  fire  until  boiling.  Move  the  kettle  to  the 
side  of  the  fire,  skim  off  the  scum  that  may  have  risen  to  the  top,  and  boil  gently  for 
ten  minutes.  Put  a  little  butter  in  a  fryingpan  and  place  over  the  fire,  when  it  is 
hot  put  in  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  fry  until  brown.  Pour  the  butter  and  parsley 
over  the  fish  and  serve  hot. 

Boiled   Cod's   Tongues  with   Egg  Sauce. 

Place  the  tongues  in  warm  water  and  leave  for  a  day  and  a  half,  changing  the 
water  once.  Put  a  pan  of  water  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  the  tongues  and 
boil  them  for  ten  minutes.  Place  a  piece  of  toast  on  a  dish,  brush  the  tongues  over 
with  egg  sauce,  put  them  on  the  toast  and  serve. 


FISH.  55 

.  i 

Fried    Cod's   Tongues. 

Wash  eighteen  to  twenty  tongues,  dip  in  cold  milk,  and  roll  one  by  one  in  flour. 
Put  one  teacupful  of  clarified  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  lay  in  the  tongues,  keeping  them 
separate  and  cook  for  three  minutes;  then  turn  on  the  other  side  and  cook  for  three 
minutes  longer.  Serve  with  one  gill  of  tomato  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Cod   Tongues,   Poulette   Style. 

Put  eighteen  tongues,  blanched,  in  a  saucepan,  add  a  pint  of  Dutch  sauce,  half  a 
gill  of  the  stock  in  which  they  were  blanched,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  beat  for  five  minutes  without  boiling.  Put  in  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle  with  pars- 
ley and  serve. 

Cod's   Tongues  with   Black   Butter  Sauce. 

Blanch  eighteen  cod's  tongues,  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  gill  of  the 
liquor  that  they  were  blanched  in,  heat,  but  do  not  boil.  Drain,  dress  on  a  hot  dish 
and  pour  over  one  pint  of  black  butter  sauce. 

Braised   Eel,   Royal   Style. 

After  skinning  and  cleaning,  cut  an  eel  into  two-inch  pieces,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  let  them  remain  for  an  hour  or  so.  Plunge  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water  for  ten 
minutes,  dry  them,  put  in  a  well-buttered  saucepan  and  season  with  grated  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  over  them  place  slices  of  lemons  and  shallots,  also  a  little 
scraped  parsley  root  and  a  few  whole  white  peppers.  Set  the  saucepan  over  a  slow 
fire  with  hot  ashes  on  the  lid  and  braise  until  the  fish  is  done.  Place  the  pieces  of 
eel  on  a  dish;  add  to  the  saucepan  one  breakfast  cupful  of  stock  and  boil  for  a  few 
minutes  and  thicken  with  a  white  roux;  let  this  reduce  slightly;  remove  the  pan  from 
the  fire,  add  a  liaison  of  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  boil  up  once  more,  strain  into  a 
saucepan  containing  double  its  quantity  of  German  sauce,  boil  up  again,  pour  around 
the  eel,  and  serve. 

Brochettes  of  Eels. 

Cut  two  or  three  eels  in  slices  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  after  skinning  and 
cleaning;  lay  them  in  a  dish,  dust  over  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  finely  chopped 
parsley  and  sweet  herbs  and  let  them  stand  for  two  or  three  hours.  Have  in  readi- 
ness some  truffles  parboiled  in  white  wine  and  cut  into  slices;  put  the  pieces  of  eels 
on  attelettes  or  skewers  with  pieces  of  truffle  between;  brush  the  whole  over  with 
yolk  of  egg,  dip  into  sifted  breadcrumbs,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat 
and  fry  for  about  twenty  minutes.  When  done  put  them  on  a  dish  without  remov- 
ing the  skewers  and  serve. 


56  FISH. 

Broiled   Eels. 

Skin  and  clean  a  good-sized  eel;  remove  the  backbone  and  cut  the  eel  into  four 
or  five  pieces.  Dip  each  piece  first  into  egg  and  then  into  breadcrumbs  mixed  with 
grated  rind  of  lemon,  nutmeg,  parsley,  sweet  herbs,  pepper  and  salt.  Put  the  pieces 
of  fish  on  a  greased  gridiron  with  the  skin  side  of  the  fish  downward,  over  a  clear 
fire,  and  broil  them,  turning  over  when  done  on  one  side.  Put  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish 
with  parsley  and  horseradish  set  alternately,  and  serve  with  tartar  or  anchovy  sauce 
in  a  sauceboat. 

Fricassee  of  Eel. 

Skin  and  clean  some  eels  and  cut  off  their  heads ;  chop  them  up  into  small  pieces 
and  put  into  a  fryingpan  with  sufficient  white  wine  and  water  in  equal  parts  to  cover ; 
season  with  mace,  pepper,  nutmeg,  cloves,  sweet  herbs,  allspice  and  salt  according  to 
taste.  Set  the  pan  over  a  good  fire  and  boil  until  the  eels  are  quite  tender,  then  put 
them  on  a  dish.  Pound  in  a  mortar  two  anchovies  and  add  them  to  the  liquor  with  a 
little  butter  and  yolks  of  eggs  to  thicken.  Pour  this  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Fried  Eels. 

Cut  a  large  eel  into  thick  slices,  after  skinning  and  cleaning ;  put  the  pieces  into 
a  basin  with  vinegar,  the  peel  from  two  or  three  lemons,  and  a  little  each  of  salt  and 
pepper,  and  let  them  soak  for  a  day  or  so  ;  take  them  out,  drain,  dip  into  batter, 
plunge  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  and  fry.  When  done,  drain,  place  on  a  napkin 
on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  reduced  stock  mixed  with  a  little  lemon 
juice  and  a  pounded,  boned  anchovy. 

Matelote   of  Eels. 

Skin  two  large  eels,  cut  them  into  pieces,  without  opening  the  belly,  thrust  a 
knife  blade  into  each  piece,  and  twist  it  around  to  remove  the  inside.  Wash  them 
well ;  put  into  a  saucepan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  stock  and  half  a  pint  of  claret, 
adding  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  whole  pepper,  a  sliced  onion,  a  bay  leaf,  thyme,  cloves, 
parsley  and  a  little  salt,  and  boil  gently  until  done.  Take  out  the  pieces  of  fish, 
strain  the  liquor  and  add  a  liquorglassful  of  brandy  to  it.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  into 
a  saucepan,  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  thicken,  add  it  to  the  sauce  and  boil. 
Place  croutons  of  fried  bread  in  a  circle  on  a  dish ;  arrange  the  fish  in  the  center,  pour 
the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

Matelote   of  Eels,  Normandy  Style. 

Cut  a  pound  and  a  half  of  eels  into  pieces,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  fry  for  two  minutes,  add  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  three 


FISH.  57 

tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup,  season  well  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  and 
cook  for  ten  minutes  longer;  add  half  a  pint  of  veloute  sauce,  six  mushrooms,  twelve 
blanched  oysters,  six  fish  quenelles,  and  six  small  cooked  crayfish  tails  and  continue 
cooking  for  five  minutes.  Beat  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  when  ready  to  serve,  then 
remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Stewed   Eels,  American   Style. 

Take  three  pounds  of  cleaned,  skinned  eels,  having  all  the  fat  removed  from  the 
insides,  cut  them  into  pieces  about  two  inches  long,  shake  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
over  and  place  in  a  jar  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter.  Chop  an  onion  and  scat- 
ter over  the  eels,  and  one  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Cover  the  jar  closely, 
stand  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water,  allow  it  slowly  to  come  to  a  boil 
and  cook  until  tender.  This  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half  from  the  time  the 
water  boils.  Serve  in  a  deep  dish. 

Stewed   Eels,   Bordelaise  Style. 

Skin  and  clean  an  eel,  split  it  open  and  put  in  a  stewpan  with  a  slice  of  onion, 
two  or  three  sprigs  of  parsley  and  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  with  Madeira 
wine  and  simmer  until  the  eel  is  done.  Take  it  out  and  press  between  two  plates 
until  cold,  strain  and  reduce  the  liquor,  add  a  little  fish  glaze  and  strain  it  through  a 
conical  strainer  into  a  bain-marie  pan,  cut  the  eel  into  fillets,  put  these  with  a  little  of 
the  sauce  into  a  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire  and  heat  the  eel.  Arrange  them  in  a 
circle  on  a  dish  and  garnish  the  center  with  glazed  and  blanched  small  onions.  Mix 
a  little  anchovy  butter  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  with  matelote  sauce.  Pour  over  the 
eels  and  serve. 

Stewed   Eels,   Poulette   Style. 

Cut  some  cleaned  eel  in  two-inch  pieces  and  stew  them  in  a  marinade  or  stock. 
Make  a  little  white  roux,  and  mix  a  little  broth  with  it;  add  a  few  green  onions,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  one  small  white  onion,  five  or  six  mushrooms,  and  a  little  glaze, 
seasoning  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  continually. 
Take  out  the  parsley  and  onions,  and  add  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley  and  the  juice 
of  one  lemon.  Remove  the  eels,  drain,  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  serve. 

Attelettes   of  Fish. 

Cut  a  slice  of  any  fish  to  a  little  more  than  half  an  inch  thick,  remove  the  skin, 
and  divide  the  slice  in  two,  having  removed  the  bone.  Cut  the  slices  into  very  thin 
strips,  forming  the  attelettes,  salt,  dip  them  in  oil,  roll  in  Hour,  and  plunge  them  into 
hot  fat  to  fry.  As  soon  as  the  flesh  is  firm,  take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  drain, 
season  them  with  salt,  and  dish  up  with  a  little  fried  parsley. 

Note  that  this  process  is  simply  one  of  frying  strips  of  flesh,  and  may  therefore 


58  FISH. 

be  applied  equally  well  to  almost  any  kind  of  fish  flesh  which  may  be  convenient. 
The  hot  fat  must  be  hotter  than  boiling  water,  and  a  thick  batter  may  be  used  instead 
of  oil  and  flour.  Anchovy  sauce  goes  well  with  these  fish  attelettes. 

For  this  kind  of  dish  it  is  well  to  have  small  silver  skewers,  about  four  inches 
long  and  of  the  thickness  of  a  packing  needle,  with  a  ring  or  fancy  design  on  the  top, 
the  persons  eating  what  is  served  on  them,  taking  the  head  of  the  skewer  with  the 
thumb  and  fingers  of  the  left  hand  and  picking  it  off  with  a  fork. 

Curried    Fish. 

Peel  and  cut  two  medium-sized  onions  into  thin  slices  and  put  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  small  lump  of  butter  and  fry  until  lightly  browned.  Pour  over  them  some  white 
stock,  judging  the  quantity  by  that  of  the  fish  ;  add  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  curry  powder ;  season  with  salt,  lemon  juice,  a  little  sugar  and  a 
small  quantity  of  cayenne.  Boil  the  stock  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  strain 
it  into  a  clean  stewpan,  skim  and  put  in  the  fish,  having  carefully  prepared  it,  and 
boil  gently,  but  without  breaking  it.  Wash  and  boil  about  half  a  pound  of  rice  in 
water  ;  when  cooked  it  should  be  dry  and  have  the  grains  unbroken.  Turn  the 
curry  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  or  sippets  of  toast, 
and  serve  very  hot,  with  the  rice  separate. 

Fish   Cutlets. 

Season  one  pint  of  any  kind  of  cold  cooked  fish  with  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne, 
and  make  it  into  paste  with  a  little  thick  cream  sauce,  made  quite  hot.  Put  the  paste 
on  a  dish  to  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  when  it  is  cold  form  it  into  the 
shapes  of  cutlets.  Put  them  first  into  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  then  into  egg  and 
again  into  crumbs.  Fry  in  a  fryingpan  of  hot  fat  until  brown.  If  lobster  is  used, 
insert  a  small  claw  at  the  end  of  each  cutlet,  and  for  other  kinds  of  fish  use  a  small 
piece  of  thick  bone.  Drain  off  the  fat  and  serve. 

Fish   Fritters. 

Pick  free  from  all  bones  a  quantity  of  any  kind  of  cold  cooked  fish  and  pound  it 
in  a  mortar;  take  a  small  onion,  peel  and  pound  it  with  the  fish;  season  to  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  an  equal  bulk  of  mashed  potatoes,  mix  well  together  and 
make  all  into  a  paste  with  beaten  egg.  Spread  the  paste  out  on  a  board,  cut  it  into 
small  pieces  about  three  inches  across  and  fry  them  in  boiling  lard  to  a  light  brown. 
Fold  a  napkin  over  a  hot  dish  and  pile  the  fritters  on  it.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley 
and  serve  with  any  kind  of  fish  sauce. 

Fish,    Normandy   Style. 

Melt  in  a  bakingdish  five  ounces  of  butter  on  the  stove  or  in  an  oven;  sift  into 
it  one  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  very  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  small  quan- 


FISH.  59 

tity  of  salt  and  black  pepper,  a  very  little  red  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  mush- 
room catsup;  add  five  pounds  of  any  kind  of  fish  without  skin  or  bone  and  cut  in 
pieces  about  four  inches  long  and  an  inch  and  a  half  wide.  Pour  in  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  brandy  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine,  fit  the  cover  on  the  dish,  put  a 
flour  and  water  dough  round  the  edge  to  keep  the  steam  in  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  very  hot. 

Pickled   Fish. 

Cut  into  slices  the  required  quantity  of  any  kind  of  fish,  dust  over  well  with  flour 
and  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  oil  to  fry.  Have  in  a  mortar  two  or  three  sprigs 
of  mint,  one  fresh  capsicum  and  salt  to  taste,  and  pound  well  together;  pour  in  slowly 
two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  vinegar,  turn  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  for  five  or 
six  minutes.  Take  out  the  fish  and  drain  it,  pour  over  the  hot  vinegar.  Serve  when 
quite  cold. 

Baked    Flounders. 

Take  two  flounders,  clean  and  split,  and  take  out  all  the  small  bones.  Lay  the 
fish  in  a  buttered  dish  and  strew  over  some  chopped  mushrooms,  parsley,  green  onions 
and  rasped  breadcrumbs ;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nut- 
meg. Put  a  few  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake.  Make  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  caper  sauce,  flavoring  it  with  essence  of  anchovy  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
When  cooked,  drain  the  butter  from  the  fish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  serve. 

Baked    Flounders,   Italian   Style. 

Clean  and  prepare  the  fish  as  for  boiling ;  put  it  into  an  oval-shaped  bakingpan 
with  one  ounce  of  soft  butter  spread  over  it ;  pour  over  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  then  add  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  Italian  sauce  and 
sprinkle  the  top  thickly  with  bread  raspings.  Place  the  pan  on  top  of  the  fire  for 
about  five  minutes  to  start  the  boiling,  then  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.  Serve  it  in  the  pan  in  which  it  was  cooked. 

Boiled   Flounders. 

Clean  and  wash  a  flounder,  make  a  sharp  cut  nearly  to  the  bone  down  the  back, 
put  it  into  a  fishkettle  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  add  half  an  ounce  of  saltpetre 
and  four  ounces  of  salt  to  every  gallon  of  water  and  simmer  gently  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  six  minutes  or  longer,  according  to  the  size  of  the  fish,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  break.  Take  it  out  carefully,  spread  on  a  napkin  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful 
of  melted  butter. 

Fricassee   of  Flounders. 

Take  one  or  two  flounders,  clean  and  wash  thoroughly;  remove  the  fillets  care- 
fully and  dust  them  over  with  salt  and  flour,  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat  and  fry. 


60  FISH. 

Chop  finely  one  dozen  oysters,  put  them  with  their  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  pour  in  a 
tumblerful  of  white  wine,  add  three  boned  anchovies,  and  salt,  pepper  and  grated 
nutmeg  to  taste.  Let  them  cook  gently  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  put  in  the 
fillets,  give  the  pan  a  shake,  warm  all  up  together,  turn  the  whole  out  on  to  a  hot  dish 
and  serve  with  slices  of  lemon  for  garnish. 

Fried    Flounders. 

Clean  and  prepare  as  for  boiling  some  small  fish,  score  them  over  the  back  and 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  into  milk  and  cover  well  with  flour;  or  dip 
them  in  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  of  hot  fat  and  fry  for  four 
minutes,  then  bring  the  fat  to  the  boil  and  fry  for  three  minutes  longer.  Take  them 
out,  drain  and  dust  over  with  a  little  salt;  garnish  with  halves  of  lemon  and  fried 
parsley  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Baked    Haddock. 

Clean  a  haddock,  remove  the  eyes,  trim  it  and  pass  its  tail  through  the  cavity  of 
the  eyes,  or  the  tail  may  be  tied  to  its  mouth.  Chop  finely  two  ounces  of  fat  bacon 
and  a  little  green  parsley,  mix  these  with  two  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and  an  egg  to  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste. 
Stuff  the  fish  with  the  mixture  and  sew  it  up.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a 
basin,  work  into  it  one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  pour  on  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  and  mix  in  one  ounce  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of 
anchovy.  Pour  this  into  a  baking  tin,  put  the  fish  on  it,  place  the  pan  in  a  moderate 
oven  and  bake  for  an  hour,  basting  frequently,  or  until  done,  without  its  taking  color. 
It  may  be  served  in  the  baking  tin  placed  in  the  dish  or  taken  out  and  placed  on  a 
dish;  but  the  fish  needs  to  be  handled  very  carefully  or  it  will  break  to  pieces  when 
moved,  thus  spoiling  its  appearance.  The  sauce  can  be  poured  round  it.  A  few 
skinned  shrimps  added  to  the  sauce  when  it  is  about  half  cooked  are  a  great  improve- 
ment, and  the  dish  may  be  garnished  with  crayfish  tails. 

Boiled   Haddock   with   Lobster   Sauce. 

Wash  the  fish,  then  place  it  in  a  fishkettle  with  boiling  water  to  cover,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  gently  for  about  half  an  hour.  Pick  out  the  flesh  of  a 
small  lobster  and  cut  it  into  little  pieces;  put  the  coral  in  a  mortar  with  one  ounce  of 
butter,  and  pound  it.  Place  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  mix  together  over  the  fire  until  well  incorporated;  then 
put  in  the  pounded  coral,  and  season  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and  a 
small  quantity  of  cayenne.  Pour  in  gradually  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes.  Strain  the  sauce,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  put  in  the 
pieces  of  lobster,  and  boil  it  up  once.  When  cooked  drain  the  fish,  being  careful  not 


FISH.  61 

to   break   it;   place   it   on   a  hot   dish,  baste  with  a  little  of  the  sauce,  and  serve  the 
balance  in  a  sauceboat. 

Broiled  Haddock. 

Clean  and  wash  a  fresh  haddock,  dry  it  on  a  cloth,  rub  it  with  vinegar,  and 
sprinkle  it  with  flour;  place  a  well  greased  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil  for 
about  fifteen  minutes,  turning  frequently.  When  done  place  it  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  shrimp  or  anchovy  sauce. 

Fried   Fillets  of  Haddock. 

Skin  and  clean  a  haddock,  cut  the  flesh  into  fillets,  trimming  them  into  pieces 
about  six  inches  long,  dip  them  into  well  beaten  egg  and  then  into  sifted  bread- 
crumbs. Be  sure  that  they  are  well  covered,  plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling 
fat,  and  fry  to  a  rich  color,  turning  them  over,  in  order  to  cook  both  sides.  Take 
them  out,  drain,  put  them  on  a  cloth  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboat- 
ful  of  Dutch  sauce. 

Haddock,   Maitre  d'Hotel. 

Clean  a  haddock  and  cut  it  open  at  the  back  on  each  side  of  the  bone,  dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  it  in  flour,  place  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  and  cook  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  turning  carefully.  Put  two  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter 
on  the  back  of  the  fish,  place  it  in  the  oven  to  melt  the  butter,  then  put  the  fish  on  a 
dish,  pour  around  two  more  ounces  of  butter  mixed  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  ordi- 
nary butter  melted  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  made  quite  hot. 

Baked  Smoked   Haddock. 

Put  the  haddock  into  a  pan,  pour  some  boiling  water  over,  take  it  out,  put  it 
into  another  pan,  mask  with  a  little  butter,  pepper  liberally,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
for  ten  minutes.  It  must  be  served  while  it  is  quite  hot. 

Broiled  Smoked  Haddock. 

Brush  a  fish  over  with  warmed  butter,  dust  with  pepper,  place  it  on  a  gridiron 
over  the  fire  and  broil  until  done,  or  it  can  be  cooked  in  front  of  the  fire.  Serve 
while  hot. 

Fried  Smoked   Haddock. 

Soak  a  haddock  in  olive  oil  for  a  number  of  hours,  then  put  it  in  a  fryingpan 
with  oil  and  fry  until  it  is  done.  Pepper  well  and  serve  at  once. 

Baked    Halibut. 

Take  three  or  four  pounds  of  the  fish  and  remove  the  dark  skin  by  dipping  the 
part  covered  by  it  into  boiling  water  and  scraping.  Rub  the  flesh  over  with  salt  and 


62  FISH. 

pepper,  place  it  in  a  bakingpan  and  pour  over  milk  to  the  depth  of  about  one  inch 
in  the  pan.  Put  the  pan  in  the  oven  and  bake  for  an  hour  or  more,  basting  frequently 
with  the  milk.  Take  out  the  fish,  remove  the  bone  and  skin,  put  it  on  a  dish  in  its 
original  shape  and  serve  with  egg  sauce,  cream  sauce  or  plain  drawn  butter.  The  dish 
may  be  garnished  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  or  it  may  be  served  with  bread- 
crumbs sprinkled  over  and  tomato  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

Boiled   Halibut. 

Put  about  two  pounds  of  halibut  into  a  saucepan  and  cover  it  with  fresh  water, 
add  one  sliced  onion,  half  a  sliced  carrot  and  a  garnished  bouquet,  season  with  one 
handful  of  salt  and  pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Place  the  lid  on  and 
cook  gently  for  about  five  minutes  after  coming  to  the  boiling  point,  then  remove  the 
fish,  drain  well,  dress  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  with  anchovy  butter  spread  all  over. 

Broiled   Halibut. 

Cut  some  slices  from  a  halibut,  dust  over  salt  and  pepper,  place  them  in  a  dish, 
cover  with  warm  butter  and  leave  for  half  an  hour.  Roll  them  in  flour  and  broil  over  a 
very  clear  fire  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes.  Place  them  on  a  dish  with  a  garnish  of 
parsley  and  slices  of  lemon  and  serve.  The  slices  of  halibut  should  be  about  one 
inch  thick,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  may  be  used  for  every  pound  weight  of 
fish. 

Fried  Halibut  Steaks. 

Cut  some  steaks  from  a  halibut,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  small  quantity 
of  butter  and  fry  until  done.  Put  them  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  Robert  sauce  poured 
round,  but  not  on,  the  fish. 

Broiled   Fresh   Herrings,   Maitre  d' Hotel. 

Slice  the  herring  down  the  stomach  and  take  out  the  insides  and  the  bones;  pour 
over  a  little  olive  oil  and  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  and  let  remain  for  an  hour. 
Put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  the  fire  and  broil  until  done.  Put  them  on  a  dish  with  a 
few  lumps  of  cold  maitre  d'hotel  butter  and  serve. 

Broiled   Fresh   Herring  with   Mustard  Sauce. 

Take  the  required  number  of  herring  with  soft  roes,  cut  off  the  heads  and  clean, 
but  do  not  open  them;  dip  them  well  in  salad  oil,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and 
leave  them  for  an  hour.  Arrange  the  fish  on  a  gridiron  and  let  them  stand  over  a 
clear,  slow  fire  and  broil  for  fifteen  minutes,  turning  until  they  are  done.  Mix  one 
teaspoonful  of  flour  and  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard  with  cold  water;  when  smooth 
pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  white  stock;  turn  this  in  a  saucepan  and  stir  over  the 


FISH.  63 

fire  until  thick  and  it  boils,  then  put  in  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Put  the  herrings  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
when  the  butter  is  dissolved  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve. 

Matelote   of  Fresh   Herring. 

Take  some  herring,  half  of  which  have  soft  and  half  hard  roes  ;  gut  them  through 
the  gill  opening.  Cut  off  the  heads  and  tails  and  divide  each  herring  lengthwise  into 
two  fillets,  removing  the  bones.  Put  a  small  quantity  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  and 
enough  flour  to  nearly  absorb  it,  then  add  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  shallots  ;  lay 
the  herrings  in  the  pan,  sprinkle  over  them  three  wineglassfuls  of  red  wine  and  cook 
over  a  hot  fire.  Put  them  on  a  hot  dish  and  lay  over  some  small  onions  and  fried 
mushrooms,  garnish  the  dish  with  fried  breadcrumbs  and  serve  hot. 

Stewed   Fresh   Herring. 

Take  some  fresh  herring,  cut  off  their  heads  and  clean  them,  put  them  in  layers 
in  an  earthen  pot,  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  over  each  layer.  Mince  some  onions  and 
carrots  and  fry  them  in  butter,  with  some  peppercorns,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a 
clove  of  garlic,  pour  over  the  vegetables  as  much  white  wine  as  will  cover  the  fish. 
When  the  liquor  boils  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  for  half  an 
hour.  Strain  the  liquid  over  the  herrings  and  let  them  stew  over  a  slow  fire  ;  they 
should  not  be  touched  while  cooking, 

Smoked   Herrings. 

Clean  the  herrings  well  and  let  them  lie  for  one  night  in  salt,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  saltpetre  mixed  with  it.  The  next  day  run  a  stick  through  the  eyes, 
and  in  this  way  thread  them  all.  Have  ready  a  cask  of  sawdust  with  a  red  hot 
heater  in  the  center  of  it ;  fix  the  stick  over  this  so  that  the  herrings  hang  in  a  row  in 
the  middle  of  it,  and  smoke  them  for  twenty-four  hours. 

Boiled   Kingfish. 

Clean  the  fish,  and  place  it  in  a  fishkettle  with  enough  clear  fish  broth  to  cover, 
and  boil  slowly.  When  cooked,  strain  the  fish  carefully,  slip  it  on  to  a  folded  nap- 
kin, on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  either  brown 
or  white  sauce. 

Baked   Mackerel. 

Clean  some  mackerel,  wash  in  plenty  of  water,  split  them  open  down  the  back, 
cut  them  across,  making  four  pieces  of  each  fish,  and  lay  them  in  a  pie  dish  in  layers, 
placing  between  each  layer  a  few  bay  leaves,  cloves,  peppercorns,  and  a  few  sliced 
shallots.  Mix  this  with  half  a  pint  of  stock  free  from  fat,  and  a  wineglassful  each  of 


64  FISH. 

white  wine  and  vinegar,  half  a  wineglassful  each  of  anchovy  and  Harvey  sauce  and 
mushroom  catsup,  and  a  third  of  a  tablespoonful  each  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and 
soy.  Pour  this  mixture  over  the  fish,  put  in  a  flat  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
When  it  is  cooked  lay  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve 
over  them,  and  leave  until  quite  cold.  When  they  are  ready  to  serve  arrange  a  few 
sprigs  of  parsley  around  the  dish. 

% 

Boiled   Mackerel. 

Prepare  and  clean  some  mackerel,  put  them  in  salted  water,  and  boil  until  they 
are  done.  When  they  are  cooked,  drain  the  mackerel  and  put  them  on  a  hot  dish. 
Blanch  some  fennel  in  salted  water,  and  when  it  is  soft  drain  and  chop  it  finely  ;  put 
one  tablespoonful  in  half  a  pint  of  butter  sauce,  and  serve  in  a  sauceboat  with  the  fish. 

Boiled   Marinaded   Mackerel. 

Put  enough  weak  broth  in  a  fishkettle  fitted  with  a  drainer  to  cover  a  dozen 
mackerel,  add  three  small  onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  half  a  teacupful  of  vinegar, 
eight  cloves  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  boil  all  together  for  one  hour ;  then  put 
them  in  the  fish  and  cook.  When  it  is  done  take  the  fish  out  carefully  on  the  drainer, 
being  careful  not  to  break  them  and  put  one  by  one  on  a  hot  dish.  Strain  the  liquor 
in  which  they  were  cooked,  put  in  some  parsley  and  hard  boiled  eggs  to  thicken  it, 
mix  in  some  white  gravy  sauce,  turn  it  into  a  sauceboat  and  serve  with  the  fish. 

Broiled   Mackerel. 

Draw  and  wash  the  mackerel,  cut  off  their  heads,  rub  over  with  salt  and  leave 
for  an  hour.  Rub  a  gridiron  with  olive  oil,  lay  the  mackerel  on  it  and  broil  over  a 
charcoal  fire.  Place  some  chopped  parsley  and  onions  on  a  hot  dish,  and  when  the 
fish  is  cooked,  squeeze  over  lemon  juice  and  serve  it  while  it  is  hot. 

Broiled   Mackerel,   Normandy   Sauce. 

Clean  and  marinade  some  mackerel  in  oil,  a  slice  of  onion  and  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley.  The  roes  must  not  be  take  out.  Fill  them  up  with  as  much  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  as  they  will  hold,  wrap  them  around  with  sheets  of  oiled  paper,  securing  the 
ends  with  thread,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  which  must  be  a 
slow  one,  broil  for  forty  minutes.  When  they  are  done  remove  the  paper,  place  the 
fish  on  a  dish,  mask  them  with  Normandy  sauce  and  serve  with  fried  bread  for  garnish. 

Broiled   Mackerel  with  Black  Butter. 

Take  some  mackerel,  open  and  remove  the  bones,  spread  a  little  butter  and 
sprinkle  some  pepper  and  salt  over  them.  Place  the  fish  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over 


FISH.  65 

a  clear  fire.  Put  a  pat  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  richly 
browned,  then  squeeze  in  some  lemon  juice.  Place  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange 
some  sprigs  of  parsley  around,  pour  over  the  butter  and  serve  while  it  is  very  hot. 

Broiled  Spanish  Mackerel. 

Cut  a  fish  down  the  middle  to  take  out  all  the  bones  and  then  cut  again  in 
halves  ;  dry  the  pieces  on  a  cloth,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  two 
yolks  of  eggs  in  a  basin  and  mix  them  with  an  equal  bulk  of  olive  oil,  dip  the  pieces 
of  fish  into  this  and  then  into  breadcrumbs  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 

Boiled   Perch. 

Clean  and  scale  the  fish,  leaving  the  roe  and  liver  inside.  Pour  a  small  quantity 
of  water  in  a  fishkettle  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil 
till  the  parsley  is  soft ;  then  put  in  the  fish  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  boil  slowly  for 
ten  or  twelve  minutes.  When  cooked,  remove  carefully,  lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  strain 
the  cooking  liquor  over,  and  serve  with  a  Dutch  sauce. 

Broiled   Perch. 

Choose  perch  of  a  moderate  size,  fresh  from  the  water ;  scale  and  clean  them, 
and  dry  them  in  a  napkin.  Melt  a  good  quantity  of  butter  with  some  salt,  let  it  be 
thick  when  it  has  cooled  a  little  ;  dip  the  perch  in  it,  and  roll  it  about  till  the  butter 
sticks  well  to  every  part  of  it ;  then  set  a  gridiron  over  a  very  clear  fire,  but  let  it 
stand  some  distance  from  the  fire,  for  the  perch  must  be  well  cooked  before  it  is 
browned.  Serve  on  a  bed  of  fried  parsley,  garnish  with  quarters  of  lemon. 

Fried  Perch. 

Scale,  clean  and  wash  the  perch,  dry  them  thoroughly  and  flour  them.  Put  some 
dripping  in  a  fryingpan  and  when  boiling  put  the  fish  in,  fry  till  nicely  browned  on 
both  sides.  Place  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish  paper  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  butter  sauce. 

Perch,   German  Style. 

Scale  and  clean  two  moderately  large  perch  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan.  Finely 
mince  the  red  part  of  two  carrots,  some  roots  of  parsley  and  celery,  put  them  in  the 
stewpan  with  the  fish,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  one  onion  and  a  little  salt,  cover  the 
perch  with  white  wine  and  let  them  boil  over  a  moderate  fire  for  twenty  minutes. 
Take  the  fish  out  when  cooked,  drain  and  place  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Take  the  bunch 
of  parsley  and  onions  out  of  the  stewpan,  then  put  in  with  the  vegetables  some  finely 
minced  raw  mushrooms,  and  cook  them  for  five  minutes  ;  then  stir  in  a  piece  of 


66  FISH. 

butter  kneaded  with  flour  to  thicken  it ;  take  the  stewpan  off  the  fire,  put  in  some 
more  butter,  cut  in  small  pieces,  but  not  kneaded,  add  the  strained  juice  of  two 
lemons,  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve. 

Perch,  Normandy  Style. 

Scale  and  clean  the  perch,  put  some  chopped  onions  at  the  bottom  of  a  flat  stew- 
pan  and  put  in  the  perch,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  some  trimmings  of  fresh  mush- 
rooms, a  little  salt  and  white  wine  to  cover.  When  the  liquid  is  boiling  move  the 
stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  keep  the  contents  simmering  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Prepare  a  garnish  with  some  quenelles,  mushrooms,  oysters,  and  mussels,  reserving 
the  liquor  of  the  oysters  and  mushrooms.  Drain  the  liquor  off  the  fish  through  a  fine 
hair  sieve  into  a  sautepan  and  boil  it  till  reduced  to  half;  then  take  the  pan  off  the 
fire,  thicken  the  sauce  with  kneaded  butter,  divided  into  small  pieces,  stirring  all  the 
time,  then  add  a  liaison  of  the  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Put  the  perch  on  a  hot  dish,  pour 
the  sauce  over  it,  put  the  prepared  garnish  round,  glaze  it  under  a  salamander  and 
serve. 

Perch,   Silesian  Style. 

Draw  and  clean  two  or  three  fine  perch,  but  do  not  scale  them.  Put  some  water 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  vinegar  and  salt  and  boil  it;  then  plunge 
the  perch  into  it  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Make  the  following  sauce:  Put  in  a 
stewpan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  little  tarragon,  two 
chopped  shallots,  a  bay  leaf,  and  four  or  five  peppercorns.  Boil  the  liquid  till  reduced 
to  half  its  original  quantity.  Leave  it  till  cool,  then  mix  with  it  a  teacupful  of  melted 
glaze,  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  four  ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  salt,  stir  the 
sauce  over  a  very  slow  fire  to  thicken  without  letting  it  boil.  Place  the  same  in  a 
bain-marie  and  whisk  it,  adding  gradually  some  small  pieces  of  butter.  When  frothy 
put  in  a  teacupful  of  brown  sauce  and  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish. 
Remove  the  perch  carefully  with  a  skimmer,  scrape  the  scales  off,  dip  the  fish  in  the 
cooking  liquor,  then  wipe  them  in  a  cloth;  put  them  in  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  prepared 
sauce  over  them,  first  mixing  with  it  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  a  few  capers  and 
serve.  Care  must  be  taken  to  remove  the  scales  quite  cleanly  or  they  will  spoil  the 
dish. 

Baked  Pike. 

Scale  and  clean  a  pike,  cut  it  into  slices  and  place  itin  a  bakingdish;  put  in  some 
slices  of  onion,  two  bay  leaves,  a  piece  of  butter,  some  pepper  and  salt,  and  one-half 
pint  of  sour  cream.  Bake  it  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven,  basting  often 
with  the  cream.  Strew  some  breadcrumbs  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese  over  the  fish, 
and  brown  it  under  a  salamander.  Place  the  slices  of  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  some 
broth  in  the  baking  dish,  add  some  lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper,  stir  it  for  a  minute 
or  two  on  the  fire,  then  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve. 


FISH.  67 

Boiled  Pike,  Dubois. 

Select  a  gold-coated  pike  weighing  six  or  seven  pounds,  scale  and  draw  it,  truss 
the  head  and  wash  it  well.  Make  incisions  across  the  back  as  deep  as  the  spine  bone, 
place  the  fish  on  its  belly  in  the  fishkettle,  cover  with  white  wine  and  water  mixed  in 
equal  quantities,  add  a  few  minced  vegetables,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  parsley, 
four  or  five  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt,  bring  to  a  boil  and  simmer  over  a  slow  fire 
for  an  hour.  Prepare  a  good  sauce  with  one  pint  of  fish  sauce  strained  and  cooled, 
thicken  it  with  flour  and  butter  kneaded  together,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  soy  and  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  broken  into  small  pieces.  Drain  the  fish,  place  it  on  a  folded 
napkin  on  a  hot  dish,  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  with  nice  little  sprigs  of 
fresh  parsley  and  serve  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Boiled  Pike  with  Caper  Sauce. 

A  pike  will  improve  by  being  kept  for  two  days;  clean  it,  cut  off  the  fins  and  bind 
its  head  round  with  a  string.  Put  the  fish  in  a  fishkettle,  cover  with  court  bouillon, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  forty  minutes,  then  leave  it  to  soak  in  the  court  bouillon  for 
twenty-four  hours.  Before  warming  the  pike  again  take  it  and  the  liquor  out  and 
clean  the  kettle,  then  put  it  back  again  and  warm  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Place  the 
fish  on  a  folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  round  with 
fried  parsley  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  caper  sauce. 

Fried  Fillets  of  Pike. 

Cut  the  fillets  carefully  off  a  pike,  wash  and  dry  them  well,  then  dip  them  in 
beaten  egg  and  breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  plenty  of  oil.  When  nicely  browned  drain 
the  fillets,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  fill  the  center  with  matelote  sauce 
and  serve. 

Pike    Financiere. 

Clean  and  skin  a  pike,  wrap  it  in  buttered  paper  and  boil  in  mirepoix  and  French 
wine  mixed  in  equal  quantities.  Make  a  garnishing  of  pike  forcemeat  quenelles, 
mushrooms,  crayfish  tails  and  truffles  mixed  in  financiere  sauce,  prepared  as  for  fish. 
Put  a  rice  socle  on  a  hot  dish,  drain  and  glaze  the  pike  and  put  it  in  the  socle,  pile 
the  garnishing  round  it  in  such  a  way  that  it  hides  the  socle,  garnish  round  with  truf- 
fles, mushrooms  and  crayfish.  Trim  four  silver  skewers  with  crayfish,  mushrooms 
and  fried  smelts,  stick  them  in  the  fish  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  the  same 
sauce. 

Fried    Pike. 

Select  small  pike,  draw  and  wash  them;  put  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and 
when  blue  smoke  arises  put  in  the  fish,  seeing  that  they  are  perfectly  dry,  and  fry  till 


68  FISH. 

nicely  browned  and  crisp.  Afterward  drain  the  butter  off  them  and  put  in  with  them 
two  or  three  anchovies,  a  slice  of  ginger,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  salt  to  taste,  and  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  claret  to  cover  them.  Boil  the  fish  until  tender,  when  the  liquor 
should  be  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity;  then  add  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  a 
small  lump  of  butter.  Lay  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  garnish  with 
slices  of  oranges,  and  serve. 

Pickled    Pike. 

Scale  and  empty  a  pike,  wash  it  thoroughly,  bind  its  head  up,  put  it  in  a  fish 
kettle  and  cover  with  a  fish  stock,  made  with  red  wine;  add  two  or  three  bay  leaves 
and  boil  slowly  till  tender.  Leave  the  pike  in  the  sauce  till  the  following  day.  When 
ready  to  serve  drain  the  fish,  put  it  on  a  folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper, 
garnish  with  fresh  parsley  and  serve  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

Broiled  Pompano. 

Thoroughly  scrape  and  clean  a  Pompano,  and  if  it  is  a  large  one,  divide  it  down 
the  back  and  through  the  head;  but  if  it  be  a  small  fish,  weighing  only  about  a  pound, 
it  may  be  cooked  whole;  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  it  on  a  gridiron 
over  a  clear  fire,  with  the  skin  side  downward,  and  after  warming  a  little,  brush  it 
over  with  butter,  adding  a  little  more  salt  and  pepper  if  desired,  and  return  it  to  the 
gridiron  to  broil  on  both  sides  until  done,  when  it  may  be  placed  on  a  dish,  a  little 
lemon  juice  squeezed  over  it,  and  served  with  tartar  sauce,  either  poured  over  or 
served  separately  in  a  sauceboat. 

Baked   Salmon   with   Cream   Sauce. 

Take  a  middle  cut  of  salmon;  butter  a  large  sheet  of  white  paper  and  wrap  the 
salmon  in  it,  pinning  the  ends  firmly  together.  Melt  four  ounces  of  butter  by  mixing 
with  it  three  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water.  Lay  the  fish,  wrapped  in  paper,  in  a 
bakingpan  and  pour  over  the  butter  and  water.  Cover  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  an  hour,  lifting  up  the  cover  now  and  then  to  see  that  the  paper  is  not 
burning.  Boil  one-half  pint  of  cream,  thickened  with  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
corn  starch;  add  to  this  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
and  a  small  quantity  each  of  pepper  and  salt.  When  the  salmon  is  taken  out  of  the 
paper  and  dished,  pour  half  of  the  sauce  over  it  and  serve  the  balance  in  a  sauceboat. 

Boiled   Salmon. 

Take  a  piece  of  the  tail  of  a  fresh  salmon,  put  it  into  a  fishkettle  with  some  salt, 
fennel  and  spices  in  moderate  quantities,  one-half  teacupful  of  vinegar,  and  sufficient 
boiling  water  to  cover.  Boil  the  fish  until  tender.  Prepare  a  sauce  with  one  pint 
of  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  fish,  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  two  finely  minced 


FISH.  69 

anchovies,  and  boil  it  until  somewhat  reduced;  then  mix  with  the  sauce  one  ounce  of 
the  butter  broken  up  into  small  pieces.  Lay  the  salmon  on  a  hot  dish  that  has  been 
covered  with  a  folded  napkin  or  napkins,  garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  serve 
with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Boiled   Salmon   with   Oyster   Sauce. 

Put  two  pounds  of  very  fresh  salmon  in  a  fishkettle,  completely  cover  it  with 
cold  water,  season  with  a  handful  of  salt,  add  one  medium-sized  onion,  one-half  wine- 
glassful  of  white  wine  vinegar,  eight  or  ten  whole  peppers,  two  cloves  and  two  parsley 
roots.  Place  the  kettle  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  five  minutes  after  coming  to  the  boil 
the  salmon  will  be  sufficiently  cooked.  Remove  the  fish  from  the  kettle,  drain  it 
well,  dress  it  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  folded  napkin,  decorate  with  sprigs  of  parsley  all 
round  the  salmon,  and  serve  with  one  pint  of  hot  oyster  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat.  The 
necessary  time  to  cook  the  above  perfectly,  from  beginning  to  end,  will  be  about 
thirty-five  minutes.  Colbert  sauce  and  cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut  into  quarters,  may 
be  substituted  for  the  oyster  sauce  and  parsley, 

Boiled  Slices  of  Salmon  with   Piquant  Sauce. 

Cut  five  slices  of  salmon,  each  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  from  the  middle 
of  the  fish,  wash  and  dry  them  well,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  hot  fish  broth 
mixed  up  with  a  small  quantity  of  wine.  When  boiling  move  the  pan  to  the  side  of 
the  fire,  place  the  lid  on,  and  let  the  contents  simmer  gently  for  ten  or  twelve 
minutes.  When  cooked,  remove  the  slices  of  salmon  carefully,  wipe  them  on  a  cloth, 
and  arrange  them  in  an  upright  position  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish  ;  place  a 
group  of  boiled  potatoes  at  each  side,  a  bunch  of  parsley  at  each  end,  and  serve  with 
a  sauceboatful  of  piquant  sauce. 

Salmon   Bouchees. 

Prepare  some  bouchee  cases,  and  fill  them  with  a  paste  made  of  pounded  cold 
salmon,  seasoned  and  moistened  with  lobster  sauce. 

Boudins  of  Salmon. 

Remove  the  skin  and  bone  from  one  pound  of  salmon,  reduce  it  to  a  pulp,  and 
pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Mix  with  the  puree  ten  ounces  each  of  bread  panada 
and  crayfish  butter,  season  the  mixture  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  bind  it  with  two 
well  beaten  eggs  and  a  little  reduced  lean  sauce  that  has  been  thickened  with  egg. 
Mix  an  onion  that  has  been  fried  white  and  cut  into  small  pieces  with  the  forcemeat. 
Cut  some  strips  of  paper  four  inches  long  by  two  and  one-half  inches  wide,  and 
butter  them.  Place  a  piece  of  forcemeat  three  and  one-half  inches  wide  by  one  and 
three-fourths  inches  long  and  one  and  three-fourths  inches  thick  on  each  strip  of 


70  FISH. 

paper.  Make  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  each  piece  of  forcemeat  about  three-fourths 
of  an  inch  deep,  and  three-fourths  of  an  inch  wide.  Fill  the  hollows  with  a  salpicon 
of  cooked  salmon  and  truffles  mixed  in  stiffly  reduced  allemande  sauce,  cover  them 
with  a  little  of  the  forcemeat,  and  wrap  the  paper  round.  Put  the  boudins  in  a  saute- 
pan  with  a  small  quantity  of  stock,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Drain  the  boudins,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  them  some  alle- 
mande sauce  thickened  with  crayfish  butter,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Salmon. 

Cut  some  slices  of  salmon  from  the  tail,  place  them  in  a  deep  dish,  cover  with 
chopped  parsley,  laurel  leaves  and  mixed  herbs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour 
over  some  olive  oil,  and  leave  to  soak  for  an  hour.  Broil  the  slices  of  fish  on  a 
gridiron,  basting  them  occasionally  with  some  of  the  marinade.  When  nicely  browned 
and  cooked,  place  the  salmon  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  white  caper  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

Salmon   Croquettes. 

Finely  chop  one  pound  of  salmon ;  mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  together ;  boil  one-half  pint  of  cream  ;  mix  the  butter,  flour 
and  salmon  in  with  it,  and  stir  all  over  the  fire  for  a  minute.  Work  in  a  well-beaten 
egg  with  the  above  ingredients,  remove  them  from  the  fire,  and  leave  them  until  they 
are  cold.  Shape  the  mixture  into  croquettes,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  then  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  them  in  boiling  fat.  When  cooked,  drain  the  croquettes,  place  them 
on  an  ornamental  dish  paper  or  a  folded  napkin  spread  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with 
slices  of  lemon  and  serve. 

Curried  Salmon. 

Put  a  sliced  Spanish  onion  in  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  fry  it,  then  stir  in 
one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  paste  ;  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  in  gradually  one  pint  of  broth,  and  add  two  pounds 
of  salmon  cut  in  small  pieces.  Let  the  curry  simmer  gently  at  the  edge  of  the  fire 
for  an  hour,  skimming  it  now  and  then.  Prepare  a  border  of  rice,  turn  it  on  to  a  hot 
•dish,  put  the  curry  in  the  center  and  serve. 

Salmon   Cutlets. 

Pick  all  the  meat  from  a  piece  of  cold  salmon,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces 
pound  some  lobster  coral  in  a  mortar  with  one-half  ounce  of  butter,  then  rub  it  through 
a  hair  sieve.  Put  over  the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan  one-fourth  pint  of  milk  and  stir 
into  it  one  ounce  of  flour,  well  rubbed  into  one  ounce  of  butter  ;  continue  to  stir  it 
until  it  is  so  thick  that  it  comes  away  from  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Add  the  coral 
butter,  the  salmon,  a  seasoning  of  cayenne  pepper,  salt  and  lemon  juice  ;  take  it  from 


FISH.  71 

the  fire,  let  it  cool.  When  sufficiently  cold,  make  it  into  thick  rolls,  brush  them 
over  with  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  a  paper  of  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  or 
lard.  The  cutlets  should  be  served  hot  and  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Salmon   Cutlets,  English  Style. 

Cut  off  some  slices  of  salmon  and  divide  them  into  the  shape  of  cutlets  ;  sprinkle 
some  pepper  and  salt  over,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter, 
and  toss  them  over  a  good  fire.  Take  out  the  cutlets  when  cooked,  drain  off  the 
butter,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  ravigote  sauce,  or  a  sauce  made  as  follows  : 
Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  reduce  it  and  add  one  egg, 
four  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  cayenne,  some  finely-minced  parsley,  and  half  the 
juice  of  a  lemon.  Mix  it  together  well,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Fried  Salmon   Cutlets. 

Take  a  quantity  of  cold  boiled  salmon,  pick  out  all  the  bones  and  skin,  pound  it 
in  a  mortar,  and  to  every  six  ounces  of  salmon  allow  two  ounces  of  finely  mashed 
potatoebj  add  to  the  potatoes  pepper,  salt,  cayenne  and  mace  to  taste.  When  the 
seasoning  is  well  stirred  in  add  the  pounded  fish  and  mix  all  thoroughly.  Flatten  the 
mixture  out,  shape  it  into  small  cutlets.  Brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg,  sprinkle 
them  with  fine  breadcrumbs  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Serve  a  quantity  of  anchovy 
sauce  with  them. 

Salmon   Cutlet  in  Papers. 

Cut  a  slice  about  one  inch  thick  from  the  middle  of  a  salmon,  wrap  it  round  in 
oiled  paper  and  fry  it  in  boiling  fat.  When  done  take  it  out,  drain,  and  serve  with 
the  paper  still  on. 

Salmon   Cutlets  with   Caper  Sauce. 

Put  some  slices  of  salmon  in  oil  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  chives  and  let 
them  steep  for  one  or  two  hours.  Dip  some  pieces  of  paper  in  the  oil  that  the  salmon 
has  marinaded  in  and  wrap  a  piece  around  each  slice.  Place  them  on  a  well-greased 
gridiron  and  broil  over  a  clear  slow  fire  for  from  forty-five  to  fifty  minutes,  according 
to  the  thickness  of  the  slices,  turning  them  occasionally.  Remove  the  paper  from 
the  cutlets,  place  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish 
and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  white  caper  sauce. 

Salmon   Cutlets  with  Milanese  Sauce. 

Cut  a  piece  of  salmon  into  slices,  and  cut  each  slice  into  halves  ;  trim  away  the 
skin  and  bone.  Dip  each  piece  in  a  small  quantity  of  white  wine,  wrap  them  in 
sheets  of  buttered  writing  paper,  and  fasten  them  securely  at  the  edges.  Put  a  lump 


72  FISH. 

of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  and  when  boiling  fry  the  salmon  in  it.  When  cooked,  re- 
move the  papers  from  the  salmon,  place  it  in  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish- 
paper  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of 
Milanese  sauce. 

Salmon  Cutlets  with  Oyster  Sauce. 

Cut  three  large  slices  from  the  middle  of  a  salmon,  and  boil  them  in  salted 
water.  Put  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity 
of  oil  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  color.  Cut  four 
dozen  oysters  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  with  the  onions,  and  stir  them  over  the 
fire  until  well  warmed  through  ;  then  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one-half  tea- 
cupful  of  oyster  liquor,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  little  essence  of  anchovies,  and 
one  pinch  of  salt  and  cayenne  pepper  ;  stir  the  above  ingredients  over  the  fire,  let 
them  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stir  in  quickly  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  keep 
it  on  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  two  longer.  Pour  the  sauce  on  a  dish  and  leave  it  until 
cold.  Put  the  slices  of  salmon  on  the  sauce,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg,  and 
sprinkle  breadcrumbs  over  them  ;  brown  them  in  a  hot  oven,  garnish  round  with 
oysters,  pour  some  lobster  sauce  over  the  fish  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Salmon,  Parisian  Style. 

Cut  some  slices  of  salmon  into  small  fillets,  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautepan  ; 
sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and  salt  over,  baste  them  with  clarified  butter, 
and  cover  with  a  round  of  buttered  paper  ;  saute  them  over  a  clear  fire.  Fix  a 
croustade  on  a  hot  dish,  fill  it  with  oysters  and  picked  shrimps  that  have  been  mixed 
in  Hollandaise  sauce,  with  the  addition  of  some  chopped  parsley  ;  arrange  the  fillets 
around  the  croustade,  garnish  with  parsley,  pour  some  of  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Salmon  with   Ravigote  Sauce. 

Cut  some  fillets  of  salmon  into  small,  equal-sized  pieces,  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  small  quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  clarified 
butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Fry  them  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  when  done  on  one 
side  and  cook  the  other.  Drain  the  fillets,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  some  ravigote  sauce  in  the  center,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Fried  Salmon. 

Cut  some  thin  slices  of  salmon,  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt,  and  leave  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes.  Dredge  flour  over  the  slices  of  salmon,  brush  over  with  the 
beaten  yolk  of  egg,  and  fry  in  boiling  salad  oil.  When  cooked,  drain  the  slices  of 
salmon  well,  and  place  them  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin  on  a 
hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 


FISH. 


73 


Broiled  Kippered  Salmon. 


Cut  the  salmon  into  strips,  and  wrap  each  one  separately  in  buttered  paper; 
make  a  gridiron  hot  and  grease  it  well,  lay  the  pieces  of  fish  on  it,  and  broil  them 
over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  now  and  then.  When  broiled,  remove  the  paper,  place 
the  pieces  of  fish  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 


Fried  Kippered  Salmon. 


Put  the  slices  of  kippered  salmon  in  a  deep  dish,  cover  them  with  salad  oil,  and 
let  them  macerate  for  several  hours.  Drain  the  oil  off  the  salmon  into  a  fryingpan, 
and  when  boiling  put  the  pieces  of  salmon  in  and  fry  them  quickly  for  four  or  five 
minutes.  Drain  the  salmon,  put  it  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin, 
on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  the  dish  with  slices  of  lemon  and  serve  at  once. 

Salmon  en  Matelote. 

Wash  and  truss  a  small  salmon  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  and  boil  it  in  salted 
water.  When  cooked,  drain  it,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  bend  some  legs  of  lobster  at  the 
joints,  and  stick  the  ends  in  the  back  of  the  salmon  from  head  to  tail.  Have  pre- 
pared the  following  sauce  :  Put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  one  and  one-half 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  butter  sauce,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  hot,  then  stir  in 
quickly  two  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  with  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice,  and 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish,  garnish  it  with  small  strips  of 
fillets  of  sole  that  have  been  dipped  in  beaten  egg  and  breadcrumbs  and  fried,  and 
serve. 

Salmon,  Maitre  d'Hotel. 

Squeeze  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  over  some  slices  of  salmon,  and  leave 
them  for  a  short  time.  When  ready  cover  each  slice  with  chopped  fennel  and  parsley, 
put  the  fish  in  a  saucepan,  cover  it  with  broth  that  has  been  thickened  with  flour  and 
water,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  until  cooked.  Place  the  salmon  on  a  hot  dish,  and 

serve  it  with  maitre  d'hotel  sauce. 

( 

Salmon   Patties. 

Skin  and  bone  a  nice  piece  of  salmon,  chop  the  flesh  well  and  season  it  highly 
with  grated  nutmeg,  cayenne  pepper,  salt  and  pepper ;  rub  in  a  small  quantity 
of  fresh  butter  and  bind  it  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Butter  some  tartlet  tins, 
line  them  with  puff  paste  and  fill  them  with  the  salmon  mixture ;  cover  each  with  a 
flat  of  paste,  trim  round  the  edges,  moisten  and  press  them  together  and  bake  the 
patties.  These  may  be  eaten  either  hot  or  cold. 


74  FISH. 

Vol-Au-Vent  of  Salmon. 

Prepare  a  puff  paste,  giving  it  four  turns,  then  gather  it  up  and  leave  it  in  a  cold 
place  or  ice-box  for  half  an  hour.  Roll  the  paste  into  a  ten-inch  square,  put  it  on  a 
plate  about  nine  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  trim  round 
the  edges ;  put  another  plate  about  seven  inches  in  diameter  in  the  center,  dip  a  sharp 
pointed  knife  in  hot  water  and  cut  round  the  smaller  plate,  allowing  it  to  go  two- 
thirds  of  the  way  through  the  paste.  Put  the  paste  on  a  flat  baking-tin  and  bake  it 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  taking  care  not  to  allow  it  to  burn.  When  the  vol-au- 
vent  is  taken  from  the  oven,  lift  out  the  center  piece  and  scoop  out  the  inside  with  a 
spoon.  Fill  it  with  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  cooked  salmon  that  has  been  heated 
in  a  thick  cream  sauce.  Place  the  cover  on  again  and  serve  immediately. 

Baked  Salmon  Trout. 

Clean  and  wash  a  salmon  trout,  salt  it  well  both  inside  and  out  and  let  it  stand  for 
an  hour ;  wash  off  all  the  salt,  dry  -it,  stuff  it  with  fish  forcemeat,  tie  up  the  head  to 
keep  it  in  shape,  put  the  fish  upon  a  well-buttered  drainer  in  a  fishkettle,  pour  over 
eight  ounces  of  butter  sauce,  add  two  quarts  of  mushrooms,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  blanched  shallot,  also  chopped,  a  small  quantity  each  of  salt, 
pepper,  grated  nutmeg  and  ground  spices.  Pour  in  one  quart  of  white  wine,  bring  the 
liquor  quickly  to  the  boil,  place  the  kettle  in  the  oven  and  cook  slowly  and  gently  for 
an  hour.  Take  out  the  fish  and  skin  it ;  untie  the  head,  cover  it  with  rasped  bread, 
pour  over  a  little  warmed  butter,  place  the  fish  in  the  oven  for  about  five  minutes, 
dress  it  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  one-half  its  strained  stock  poured  over  and  the  re- 
mainder in  a  sauceboat. 

Boiled  Salmon  Trout. 

Clean  a  salmon  trout,  rub  it  well  with  salt,  and  let  it  remain  for  an  hour  Wash 
it  thoroughly  and  wipe  it  dry  ;  stuff  it  with  fish  forcemeat,  tie  up  the  head,  place 
it  on  a  buttered  drainer  in  a  fishkettle,  pour  over  a  strained  mirepoix,  and  add 
two  pints  of  white  wine  and  an  equal  quantity  of  fish  stock  or  broth.  Bring  the 
liquor  to  the  boil,  remove  it  to  a  slow  fire  and  simmer  it  gently  for  an  hour  and 
a  half.  Take  out  the  fish,  drain  it,  remove  the  skin,  glaze  over,  place  it  on  a  dish, 
garnish  with  cooked  truffles  and  serve  with  mirepoix  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Salmon   Trout,  Modern   Style. 

Clean  and  salt  a  salmon  trout  as  for  plain  boiling,  stuff  it  with  fish  forcemeat, 
tie  the  head  up  carefully,  place  the  fish  on  a  drainer  in  a  fish  kettle,  sprinkle  it  over 
with  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  clove  of 
garlic  and  one  pound  of  butter,  pour  in  one  quart  of  champagne  and  set  it  to  boil. 
Remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  where  it  will  simmer  gently,  but  constantly  for 


FISH.  75 

two  hours,  basting  it  frequently  with  its  own  liquor.  Take  out  the  fish,  remove  the 
skin  carefully,  glaze  the  surface,  place  it  on  a  dish  in  the  oven,  glaze  it  once  more, 
allow  it  to  remain  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  take  it  out,  untie,  put  it  on  a  serving- 
dish,  garnish  with  parsley  or  any  other  garnish  that  may  be  desired,  and  serve  with 
the  strained  liquor  from  the  fish  in  a  sauceboat. 

Baked  Sardines. 

Skin  a  dozen  sardines,  put  them  on  a  dish  in  the  oven,  and  heat  them  through. 
Put  the  oil  from  the  sardines  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils  mix  in  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  water  ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thick,  then  add  one  teaspoonful 
of  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper  ;  move  the  sauce- 
pan from  the  fire,  and  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  that  has  been  beaten  together  with 
one  teaspoonful  each  of  vinegar  and  mustard.  Take  the  dish  of  sardines  out  of  the 
oven,  pour  the  sauce  over  them  and  serve  while  hot. 

Broiled   Sardines. 

Select  a  dozen  good-sized,  firm  sardines,  place  them  in  a  double  broiler  and  broil 
for  two  minutes  on  each  side  over  a  very  brisk  fire.  Place  six  pieces  of  toast  on  a 
hot  dish,  lay  the  sardines  on,  being  careful  not  to  break  them,  pour  over  one-half  gill 
of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  garnish  with  half  a  dozen  quarters  of  lemon  and  serve. 

Curried  Sardines. 

Mix  together  one  teaspoonful  each  of  sugar  and  curry  powder,  one  teacupful  of 
cream  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice;  stir  it  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  hot, 
then  put  in  six  or  eight  sardines.  When  they  are  thoroughly  heated  lay  them  on  a 
hot  dish  with  some  fried  slices  of  apple  and  onion,  pour  the  sauce  over,  place  an  edg- 
ing of  boiled  rice  all  round,  garnish  the  tops  with  capsicums  and  serve  while  hot. 

Deviled  Sardines. 

Scrape  the  skin  off  some  sardines,  split  them  lengthwise,  lift  the  bones  out  care- 
fully, trim  them  neatly,  and  spread  a  small  quantity  of  made  mustard  over  them;  sea- 
son with  moderate  quantities  of  salt  and  pepper  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  In 
about  an  hour's  time  lay  the  sardines  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire. 
When  delicately  browned  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  an  or- 
namental dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin  and  serve.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 


Sardines  in   Papers. 


Drain  the  oil  from  some  sardines,  then  scrape  and  bone  them ;  fill  them  with  a 
mixture  of  chopped  mushrooms,  fine  herbs,  and  cold  brown  sauce.     Wrap  them  care- 


76  FISH. 

fully  in  paper,  fastening  it  securely  at  the  ends,  and  warm   them   in  the  oven.      Place 
the  sardines  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Sardines,  Maitre  d' Hotel. 

Skin  a  number  of  sardines,  cut  off  their  tails,  arrange  them  on  hot  buttered  toast 
on  a  dish,  and  heat  them  in  the  oven.  Put  one  teacupful  of  white  sauce  in  a  sauce- 
pan, mix  with  it  one  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  onion  and  a  small  quantity  of 
chopped  parsley,  boil  it  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  chili  vine- 
gar and  one  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  Remove  the  dish  of  sardines  from  the  oven, 
pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Sardines,  Piedmontese. 

Scrape  some  sardines  and  place  them  in  the  oven  to  heat.  Put  in  a  saucepan 
four  well  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  tarragon  vinegar,  malt  vinegar 
and  made  mustard,  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  one-half  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  it  is  quite  thick,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Cut 
some  slices  of  bread,  Remove  the  crusts,  and  fry  them  in  boiling  lard  or  butter  until 
lightly  browned.  Drain  the  pieces  of  bread,  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pile  the 
sardines  on  them,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

Baked  Shad. 

Pare  and  scale  a  small  shad,  place  it  on  a  well  buttered  deep  baking-dish  and 
season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  one, half  pinch  of  pepper,  adding  two  finely-chopped 
shallots  and  one-half  wineglassful  of  white  wine.  Cover  the  whole  with  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes.  When  done, 
pour  the  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  add  one-half  pint  of  German  sauce,  a  pinch  of  finely- 
chopped  chervil  and  a  small  quantity  of  spinach :  cook  for  three  minutes  longer,  pour 
a  little  of  it  through  a  strainer  over  the  fish  and  serve  the  balance  in  a  sauceboat. 

Baked  Shad,  American  Style. 

Clean  a  shad  by  drawing  the  entrails  through  the  gills  and  wash  and  dry  it.  Pre- 
pare a  stuffing  with  breadcrumbs,  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  moisten  with  egg  to  bind 
and  stuff  the  fish  with  it ;  place  it  in  a  baking-dish  over  slices  of  uncooked  potatoes, 
pour  in  sufficient  fish  broth  to  moisten,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  bake.  Serve  with 
a  quantity  of  rich  sauce  or  thickened  stock  in  a  sauceboat. 

Broiled  Shad. 

Remove  the  scales  from  a  large  shad,  clean  it  well,  cut  off  the  fins  and  score  it 
on  both  sides.  Place  the  fish  in  a  deep  dish  with  some  chopped  shallots,  parsley,  oil 


FISH.  77 

and  salt  and  let  it  macerate  for  one  hour.  Grease  a  gridiron  well,  warm  it,  and  lay 
on  the  fish ;  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  it  occasionally  and  basting  it  with  oil. 
The  shad  will  require  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes  to  cook,  according  to  its  size. 
When  ready,  place  the  fish  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  parsley 
and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  maitre  d'hotel  sauce. 

Broiled  Shad  with  Sorrel. 

Scale  and  draw  a  shad  which  has  a  soft  roe,  cut  off  the  fins,  wipe  it,  and  make 
incisions  on  both  sides.  Place  the  shad  in  a  deep  dish,  baste  it  with  oil,  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  it  macerate  for  one  hour.  Broil  the  fish  over  a 
clear  fire,  turning  and  basting  it  frequently  with  the  oil  in  which  it  is  soaked.  Boil  a 
quantity  of  sorrel  as  for  garnish,  make  a  border  of  it  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  shad  in 
the  center,  pour  over  a  little  parsley  sauce  and  serve,  accompanied  by  a  sauceboatful 
of  the  sauce. 

Fried  Shad. 

After  the  shad  is  cleaned  and  washed  split  it  down  the  back,  cut  out  the  back- 
bone, divide  the  fish  into  pieces  about  three  or  four  inches  square,  and  lay  them  on  a 
clean  dry  cloth.  Have  in  readiness  a  drippingpan,  or  a  large  fryingpan  containing 
hot  fat  one-half  inch  deep,  roll  the  fish  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  it 
into  the  fat  when  smoking  hot  and  fry  it  brown  on  both  sides;  use  a  broad  spatula  or 
cake  turner  to  turn  over  the  pieces  in  order  to  preserve  them  entire.  As  quickly  as 
the  pieces  brown  lift  them  out  of  the  pan,  lay  them  on  brown  paper  fora  moment  to 
free  them  from  fat,  and  then  turn  them  on  to  a  hot  dish.  Serve  with  lemons, 
pickles  or  cucumbers. 

Planked  Shad. 

Procure  a  hardwood  board  about  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  and  split  the  shad  as  for 
broiling,  put  it  on  the  board  with  the  skin  side  down  and  fasten  it  with  some  tacks, 
and  put  the  board  over  the  fire,  roasting  until  done,  and  rub  it  every  once  in  a  while 
with  a  little  butter.  The  plank  should  be  well  seasoned  and  be  heated  before  placing 
the  shad  upon  it  or  it  will  flavor  the  fish  with  the  wood.  When  done  turn  it  on  to  a 
hot  dish,  dredge  over  it  some  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  it  with  small  bits  of  butter 
and  serve  with  lemon  cut  in  quarters. 

Broiled  Shad's  Roe. 

Wash  a  shad's  roe  in  cold  water,  wipe  it  dry  on  a  clean  towel,  place  it  between 
the  bars  of  a  double  wire  gridiron,  thickly  buttered,  and  broil  until  brown  on  both 
sides.  When  cooked  serve  it  with  butter,  lemon  juice  and  parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 
A  garnish  of  sliced  cucumbers  may  be  served  with  the  broiled  roe.  A  dish  of  mashed 
potatoes  should  also  accompany  it. 


78  FISH. 

Broiled  Shad's  Roe  with  Bacon. 

Wash  thoroughly  six  pieces  of  shad's  roe,  wipe  weh  with  a  towel,  lay  them  on  a 
dish  and  season  with  one  good  pinch  of  salt  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil.  Roll 
them  gently  to  avoid  breaking,  arrange  them  on  a  broiler  and  broil  for  six  minutes 
on  each  side.  Remove  from  the  fire,  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish  and  pour  over  one  gill 
of  maitre  d'hotel  butter.  Garnish  with  six  slices  of  broiled  bacon  and  six  quarters  of 
lemon  and  serve. 

Shad's  Roe  Croquettes. 

Broil  the  roe  for  fifteen  minutes  in  salted  water,  then  drain  and  mash  it.  Boil 
one  pint  of  cream;  mix  four  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch  with  one-fourth  pound  of 
butter  and  stir  it  into  the  boiling  cream;  add  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons,  a  little 
salt,  cayenne  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  and  the  roe.  Boil  all  together,  then  take 
the  saucepan  off  the  fire  and  leave  the  contents  until  cool.  Shape  the  mixture  into 
croquettes,  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and  breadcrumbs,  repeating  the  operation  twice. 
Put  the  croquettes  in  a  frying  basket,  plunge  theni  into  boiling  fat  and  brown  them 
quickly.  When  cooked  drain  the  croquettes,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with 
parsley  and  serve. 

Fried  Shad's  Roe. 

Steep  the  roe  in  cold  water.  (Care  should  be  taken  in  removing  it  from  the 
fish  not  to  break  it.)  Wipe  the  roe  dry,  place  it  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  small 
quantity  of  lard,  and  fry  until  nicely  done.  When  cooked  place  the  roe  on  a  folded 
napkin  laid  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve 

Boiled  Sheepshead. 

Wash  and  clean  the  fish  well,  rub  it  over  with  dry  salt,  and  soak  it  in  cold  water 
for  an  hour.  Remove  it  from  the  water,  wipe  dry,  score  it  several  times  across  both 
sides,  and  rub  it  with  a  lemon  cut  into  halves.  Lay  the  fish  on  a  drainer  over  a  fish 
kettle,  cover  it  with  cold  water  and  milk  equally  mixed,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
let  it  gradually  boil,  and  then  gently  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  In  dishing  the  fish  be 
careful  to  transfer  it  from  the  kettle  to  the  dish  without  breaking  it.  Pour  a  little  of 
the  cooking  liquor  round  and  serve  the  balance  in  a  sauceboat. 

Fried   Fillets  of  Sheepshead. 

Remove  the  fillets  and  dip  them  in  salted  milk,  and  roll  them  in  flour  and  then 
in  egg  and  fresh  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat.  Arrange  them  on  a  napkin 
on  a  hot  dish,  overlapping  one  another,  and  serve  them  with  Bearnaise,  Mayonnaise 
or  Tartare  sauce. 


FISH. 


79 


Boiled  Skate  with  Black  Butter. 


Boil  the  skate  till  tender  with  small  quantities  of  onion,  thyme,  parsley,  bay 
leaves,  pepper,  salt  and  vinegar  in  the  water.  Put  some  fried  parsley  in  the  center 
of  a  hot  dish,  and  place  some  black  butter  around  it.  Divide  the  skate  into  kite- 
shaped  pieces,  put  them  on  the  butter  and  serve. 

Baked   Fillets  of  Skate. 

Skin  the  fish,  divide  it  into  fillets,  and  dry  them  on  a  cloth.  Put  the  fillets  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  two  slices  of  lemon  and 
a  bunch  of  herbs.  Dredge  over  them  a  small  quantity  of  flour,  then  pour  in  one 
pint  of  milk.  Add  a  lump  of  salt.  When  three-fourths  cooked,  drain  the  fillets, 
put  them  on  a  baking  dish,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven  until  nicely  browned. 
Place  the  fillets  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve  with  a 
sauce  boatful  of  mixed  herb  sauce. 

Skate,  Italian   Style. 

Put  a  skate  into  a  saucepan  with  a  clove  of  garlic,  one  bay  leaf,  one  or  two 
sprigs  of  thyme,  a  small  lump  of  butter,  two  cloves,  and  salt  and  pepper ;  dredge  in 
a  little  flour,  and  cover  the  fish  with  milk.  Boil  gently  until  the  skate  is  cooked, 
then  remove  and  drain  it.  Put  in  with  the  cooking  stock  a  few  boiled  button  onions, 
and  boil  quickly  for  a  few  minutes.  Sprinkle  some  grated  cheese  at  the  bottom  of  a 
deep  dish,  put  the  skate  on  it,  place  the  onions  and  some  fried  sippets  of  bread  round 
it,  and  strain  the  sauce  over;  cover  the  top  with  grated  cheese,  and  bake  it  for  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  brisk  oven.  When  ready,  serve  the  skate  in  the  same  dish. 

Stewed  Skate  with  Caper  Sauce. 

Wash  and  clean  a  skate,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  sliced  onion,  a  bunch  of 
green  onions,  two  bay  leaves,  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme;  cover  the  fish 
with  water,  add  a  small  quantity  of  vinegar,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stew  it 
gently  until  tender.  When  cooked  drain  the  fish,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  with 
caper  sauce  and  serve. 

Baked    Smelts. 

Clean  eighteen  or  twenty  smelts,  wipe  them  very  dry,  and  put  them  on  a  baking 
dish  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs,  one-half  wineglassful  of  white 
wine,  one-half  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper,  and  cover  with  six  whole  mush- 
rooms and  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  breadcrumbs  and 
a  little  warmed  butter,  place  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  with 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  sprinkle  over  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  The 
smelts  can  be  boned  if  desired. 


8o  FISH. 

Smelts,   Bearnaise. 

Split  twelve  large  or  eighteen  medium-sized  smelts  down  the  backs,  remove  the 
backbones,  rub  them  with  one  tablespoonful  of  oil  and  season  with  one-half  pinch  of 
salt  and  one-third  of  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Broil  them  in  a  double  broiler  for  two  min- 
utes on  each  side,  pour  a  little  over  one  gill  of  Bearnaise  sauce  on  a  dish,  arrange  the 
smelts  carefully  on  top,  garnishing  with  a  very  little  demi-glaze  sauce  round  the  dish 
and  serve. 

Smelts,   Boulangere. 

Clean  and  dry  the  fish  on  a  cloth,  dip  them  into  very  thick  cream  and  then 
dredge  them  thickly  over  with  flour  forming  a  paste  round  them.  Put  some  lard  in  a 
fryingpan  and  when  very  hot  put  the  fish  in  and  fry  them  till  of  a  light  golden  brown. 
Arrange  the  smelts  on  a  dish  paper  or  a  folded  napkin  placed  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Fried  Smelts. 

Clean  and  dry  the  fish,  roll  them  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  finely  grated  bread- 
crumbs ;  dredging  a  little  flour  and  salt  over  them.  Put  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter 
into  a  fryingpan,  and  when  hot  put  in  the  smelts  and  fry  them  quickly.  Drain  the 
fish  when  richly  browned,  place  them  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin 
on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Smelts  in  Matelote. 

Put  a  chopped  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  two  or  three  mushrooms  and  a  small  piece 
of  garlic  into  a  saucepan ;  pour  over  them  a  small  quantity  of  oil  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Clean  the  smelts,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  pour  over  one  teacupful  of 
champagne  and  let  them  simmer  gently  until  cooked.  Place  the  smelts  on  a  hot 
dish,  squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over  and  serve. 

Smelts  Sauted  in  Brown  Butter. 

Remove  the  gills,  clean  and  wash  the  smelts,  and  when  well  dried  roll  them  in 
flour.  Place  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  and  when  it  is  hot  put  in  the  smelts 
and  brown  them,  turning  when  done  on  one  side.  Arrange  some  slices  of  hot  but- 
tered toast  on  a  dish,  put  the  fish  on  them  and  serve  at  once. 

Stuffed  Smelts. 

Cut  off  the  fins  of  eighteen  or  twenty  fresh  medium-sized  Long  Island  smelts 
and  wash  and  dry  them  well;  remove  the  insides  without  splitting  the  stomachs  open, 
then  stuff  them  with  a  fish  forcemeat,  using  a  paper  cornet  for  the  purpose.  Place 
the  smelts  on  a  well-buttered  baking  dish  (silver  if  possible),  and  cover  them  with 


FISH.  81 

one  pint  of  Italian  sauce.     Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  for  eight  or  ten  min- 
utes; remove,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  serve  in  the  same  dish. 

Smelts,   Toulouse. 

Take  twelve  or  fourteen  good-sized  smelts,  remove  the  bones  and  then  close 
them  up  again.  Put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one-half  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor;  season  with  one-half  pinch  of  salt  and  one- 
third  pinch  of  pepper  and  cook  over  a  moderate  fire  for  six  or  eight  minutes.  Arrange 
the  smelts  on  a  dish;  add  to  the  sauce  a  dozen  button  mushrooms,  two  sliced  truffles, 
six  fish  quenelles,  and  moisten  with  one-half  pint  of  allemande  sauce.  Thicken  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  smelts.  Neatly  dress  the 
garnishing  round  the  dish  and  serve  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Baked  Sole  with  Wine  Sauce. 

Clean,  trim  off  the  gills  and  dark  skin,  and  scrape  the  white  side  of  a  large  sole ; 
make  a  deep  cut  on  each  side  of  the  backbone,  and  cut  off  the  fins.  Butter  well  the 
inside  of  a  grating  pan  and  put  in  the  sole ;  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour 
in  one  pint  of  French  white  wine,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Put 
about  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  well  mixed,  then  add  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  When  cooked 
strain  the  liquor  off  the  sole  into  the  sauce,  boil  the  whole  together,  and  then  move 
the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire ;  put  in  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  stir  it  until  the  butter  has  melted.  Put  the  sole  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Sole. 

Clean  and  skin  a  sole,  sprinkle  both  sides  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  squeeze  a 
small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  over  it ;  dip  the  sole  in  warmed  butter,  cover  it  well 
with  finely  grated  breadcrumbs,  place  it  on  a  gridiron,  and  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire, 
turning  it  when  brown  on  one  side  and  browning  the  other.  Bone  an  anchovy,  put 
the  flesh  into  a  mortar  with  a  small  lump  of  butter,  and  pound  it,  then  place  it  in  a 
small  saucepan  with  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  and  the  strained  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  When  cooked,  place  the  sole  on  a 
hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  it  and  serve. 

Soles,  Colbert  Style. 

Skin  and  trim  the  soles  and  boil  them.  Blanch  the  hearts  of  four  heads  of 
endive,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot ; 
then  pour  over  one  pint  of  stock  that  has  been  thickened  with  the  yolk  of  egg  beaten 


82  FISH. 

with  a  little  cream,  and  add  three  or  four  poached  eggs.      Place  the  soles  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Fried  Fillets  of  Sole. 

Place  a  sole  in  a  deep  dish,  season  it  with  chopped  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  it  with  white  wine,  and  leave  it  to  soak  for  half  an  hour.  A  few  minutes 
before  serving  fillet  the  sole,  dip  the  fillets  in  milk,  dredge  them  well  with  flour,  and 
fry  them  in  lard.  When  nicely  browned,  place  the  fillets  on  a  folded  napkin  laid  on 
a  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Soles  in  Cases. 

Put  one  teacupful  of  finely  minced  mushrooms  into  a  frying  pan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  shallots  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  add  a  lump 
of  butter  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Toss  the  above  ingredients  over  the  fire 
until  cooked,  then  put  them  by  until  cold.  Fillet  the  soles,  mask  one  side  of  them 
with  the  above  mixture,  roll  them  up,  secure  them  with  a  piece  of  thread,  place  them 
between  two  buttered  plates  and  bake  them.  Prepare  some  white  sauce.  Put  each 
fillet  into  a  small  paper  case,  place  a  small  mushroom  on  the  top  of  each,  fill  up  the 
cases  with  the  hot  sauce,  and  serve  them  at  once. 

Fillets  of  Soles,  Joinville. 

Procure  the  fillets  of  three  soles,  fold  and  lay  them  in  the  shape  of  a  crown,  in 
a  well-buttered  and  flat  stewpan,  adding  half  a  glassful  of  white  wine  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor,  seasoning  with  half  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper 
and  cook  for  six  minutes  over  a  moderate  fire  ;  then  arrange  the  fillets  on  a  dish, 
place  at  the  side  of  the  stove,  reduce  the  gravy  to  one-half,  adding  one  cooked 
lobster  claw,  one  truffle  and  three  mushrooms,  all  of  which  have  been  cut  julienne- 
shaped,  add  to  this  half  a  pint  of  Allemande  sauce,  stir  it  thoroughly  and  pour  it 
over  the  soles  previous  to  serving,  sticking  a  piece  of  truffle  and  a  mushroom  button 
into  each  fillet,  also  in  each  one  stick  a  pickled  shrimp  with  head  erect,  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Sole,  Orly. 

Remove  the  fillets  from  the  soles,  place  them  in  a  dish  with  pepper,  salt  and  pour 
plenty  of  lemon  juice  over  them,  and  allow  them  to  soak  for  thirty  or  forty  minutes. 
Put  the  trimmings  of  the  fish  into  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and 
one-half  pint  of  white  wine,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  the  sauce 
till  it  is  partly  reduced.  Rub  some  flour  over  the  fillets  and  fry  them  in  boiling  fat. 
When  cooked,  drain  the  fillets,  lay  them  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 


FISH.  83 

Fillets  of  Soles,  Parisian   Style. 

Place  the  fillets  of  a  pair  of  soles  in  a  saucepan  with  a  finely-chopped  onion 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  ;  cover  them  with  butter  that  has  been 
melted,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  Toss  the  soles  about  over  a  moderate  fire 
till  cooked,  taking  care  not  to  allow  them  to  burn.  When  done  arrange  the  fillets 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  some  Italian  sauce  and  garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

Fillets  of  Soles,  Provincial   Style. 

Fillet  two  soles  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  teacupful  of  white  wine  and 
a  small  quantity  of  olive  oil;  add  a  little  chopped  parsley,  garlic,  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  half  an  hour.  When 
cooked  arrange  the  fillets  on  a  hot  dish,  squeeze  some  lemon  juice  over,  garnish  round 
with  some  slices  of  fried  onions,  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Soles,  Rouennese. 

Skin  a  pair  of  soles  and  separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones,  spread  them  with 
lobster  butter  and  double  them  over.  Butter  a  baking  sheet,  put  the  fillets  on  it, 
squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a 
slow  oven.  It  will  require  about  ten  minutes  to  cook  them.  Put  three-fourths  of  an 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  mixed;  then  pour  in  gradually  a  teacupful  of  fish  stock  and  continue  stirring 
it  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Mix  with  the  sauce  one-half  teacupful  of  cream,  some 
lemon  juice,  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles. 
Arrange  the  soles  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Sole   with   Anchovies. 

Fry  the  fillets  of  a  sole  in  a  little  salad  oil,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,, 
and  press  them  between  two  dishes  until  cold.  Bone  and  clean  four  anchovies,  and 
divide  each  one  into  four  fillets.  Cut  the  fillets  of  sole  into  pieces  about  the  same 
size  as  the  anchovy  fillets,  mix  them  together  and  pile  them  on  a  dish.  Mix  with  a 
teacupful  of  salad  oil,  one  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  one  chopped 
capsicum.  Pour  the  dressing  over  the  fish,  and  serve  it. 

Fillets  of  Soles  with  Oysters. 

Separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones  of  some  soles,  trim  them  and  fry  them  in  a 
little  butter.  Fix  a  bread  croustade  on  a  hot  dish,  and  fill  it  with  oysters  mixed  with 
allemande  sauce.  When  cooked  arrange  the  fillets  round  the  croustade,  pour  a  little 
allemande  sauce  over  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  the  same. 


84  FISH. 

Fillets  of  Soles  with   Ravigote  Sauce. 

Place  some  fillets  of  soles  in  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  cook  over  a  slow  fire,  but  do  not  brown  them. 
Pour  two  and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  white  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  with  one  and  one- 
half  teacupfuls  of  white  broth,  and  boil  for  three  or  four  minutes,  keeping  it  well 
stirred.  Mix  a  little  chopped  chervil,  parsley  and  tarragon  with  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter  and  stir  it  into  the  sauce,  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  seasoning  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  stirring  it  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  longer.  Place  the  fillets  on 
a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  serve. 

Soles,  Marechal. 

Skin,  clean  and  marinade  a  pair  of  soles  and  fry  them  plain,  having  previously 
dipped  them  in  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Let  them  get  cold,  trim  them,  brush  over 
with  warmed  butter  mixed  with  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  salt,  cover  them  with  fine 
breadcrumbs  mixed  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese;  pour  a  little  more  warmed  butter 
over,  lay  them  on  an  oiled  gridiron,  over  a  slow,  clear  fire,  and  broil  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  turning  them  over  so  as  to  color  both  sides  equally.  When  done  place  them 
on  a  dish,  pour  round  some  more  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  and  serve. 

Sole,  Normandy  Style. 

Lay  a  thick-skinned  sole  in  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  having  previously  buttered 
the  latter,  and  put  in  with  it  about  a  dozen  mussels  that  have  been  blanched  in  boiling 
water,  eighteen  or  twenty  oysters,  a  chopped  onion,  a  bunch  of  thyme  and  parsley,  some 
trimmings  of  truffles,  and  a  few  pieces  of  butter.  Pour  in  one  teacupful  each  of 
chablis  and  broth,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  the  lid  on  the  stewpan  and  let 
the  contents  simmer  until  nearly  done.  Put  into  a  stewpan  some  trimmings  of  veal 
and  bacon  with  some  chopped  vegetables,  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  broth,  mix  in  a 
lump  of  butter  that  has  been  worked  with  a  small  quantity  of  flour  and  boil  the  sauce 
for  twenty  minutes.  When  three-fourths  done  put  the  sole  in  a  dish  that  will  stand 
the  heat  of  an  oven,  mix  its  cooking  liquor  with  the  sauce  and  strain  them  both  in  a 
clean  stewpan;  then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  stir  it  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  done  and  thick.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  sole,  put  the  mussels,  oysters  and 
some  sauted  mushrooms  on  the  top,  and  garnish  round  the  sides  with  heart-shaped 
croutons  of  fried  bread.  Cover  the  dish  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  finish 
cooking  the  contents  in  the  oven.  When  cooked  serve  the  fish  in  the  same  dish 
placed  on  a  large  flat  dish  covered  by  a  folded  napkin. 

Paupiettes  of  Soles. 

Skin  the  soles,  then  lift  the  fillets  carefully  from  the  bones  and  trim  them. 
Prepare  some  whiting  forcemeat,  spread  a  layer  of  it  on  each  fillet,  roll  them,  and 


FISH.  85 

wrap  each  one  in  a  separate  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  keeping  them  in  shape  by  tying 
a  string  around  them.  Bake  the  paupiettes  in  the  oven.  When  cooked  remove  the 
paper,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  with  a  turned  mushroom  on  each,  pour  over  some 
Allemande  sauce  and  serve. 

Stewed  Soles  with   Oyster  Sauce. 

Scrape  a  pair  of  thick  soles,  leaving  on  the  skins,  and  steep  them  for  a  couple 
of  hours  in  a  little  vinegar,  with  a  dust  of  pepper  and  salt  over  them.  Place  the 
soles  in  a  fishkettle  with  the  vinegar  and  one  pint  of  boiling  fish  stock,  and  let  them 
simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  When  cooked,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour 
over  some  oyster  sauce,  and  serve. 

Baked  Trout. 

Scrape  and  clean  about  six  pounds  of  trout,  draw  them  through  the  gills,  wash 
well,  and  wipe  them  inwardly.  Stuff  them  with  forcemeat,  put  them  into  a  baking- 
pan  over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  melted  butter  ;  cover  over  with  a  little  mushroom 
liquor  or  a  few  mushrooms  chopped,  also  with  slices  of  pork,  and  sprinkle  over  three 
or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  a  can  of  mushrooms  without  any  liquor, 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley  ;  also  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  over 
about  one-half  pint  of  stock,  place  the  pan  in  the  oven  and  bake  for  half  an  hour, 
basting  frequently  with  the  liquor  in  the  pan.  When  done,  take  the  trout  out,  place 
them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  potatoes. 

Trout,  Beyrout. 

Clean  a  large  trout,  dry  it  on  a  cloth,  dredge  it  over  with  flour,  place  it  on  a 
gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  and  broil  it.  When  done  take  it  off,  remove  the  skin,  place 
it  on  a  dish,  pour  over  beyrout  sauce  or  fish  sauce  and  serve. 

Boiled   Trout. 

Scale  and  clean  three  or  four  large  trout,  place  them  in  a  saucepan,  pour  over 
two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  vinegar,  which  will  have  the  effect  of  turning  them 
blue,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  white  wine,  and  pour  over  sufficient  water  to  cover 
them.  Add  one  onion,  stuck  with  cloves,  one  carrot,  half  a  bunch  of  celery,  four  or 
five  bay  leaves,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  corns  and  salt  to 
suit  the  taste  ;  set  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  boil  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  with 
the  cover  on.  When  done,  remove  the  fish,  drain  them,  place  them  on  a  folded 
napkin  spread  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with  oil  and  vinegar,  or  any 
fish  sauce,  in  a  sauceboat. 


86  PISH. 

Broiled  Trout. 

Clean  a  trout,  wipe  it  carefully,  tie  it  up  into  shape,  cover  it  over  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  mixed  with  four  or  five  ounces  of  butter,  and  let  it  remain  for  three 
minutes.  Then  place  it  on  a  gridiron,  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil  it  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes  or  so.  Chop  up  a  well-washed  and  boned  anchovy,  stir  it  up  with  a  little 
melted  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  capers,  one  dessertspoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  When  done,  put  the  trout  on  a  dish  ; 
boil  the  sauce  for  two  or  three  minutes,  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve  at  once. 

Broiled  Trout  with    Bacon. 

Wash  and  clean  a  trout  well,  slit  it  down  the  belly  and  remove  the  backbone. 
Put  a  strip  of  bacon  in  place  of  the  bone,  tie  the  fish  into  its  original  shape,  place  it 
on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  and  broil  it.  When  done  place  it  on  a  dish,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Brook  Trout. 

All  trout  should  be  clean  and  cooked  as  quickly  as  possible  after  catching,  as  in 
consequence  of  the  extreme  delicacy  of  the  flesh  it  soon  deteriorates  after  death. 
The  recipes  following  this  one  may  be  equally  applied  to  all  kinds  of  trout. 


Croquettes  of  Trout. 


Cut  off  the  fillets  from  two  cold  boiled  trout,  divide  them  into  squares,  cover 
them  over  with  chopped  onions  and  chervil,  squeeze  over  a  small  quantity  of  lemon 
juice  and  roll  them  up  into  croquettes,  dip  them  into  villeroi  sauce,  then  into  egg  and 
breadcrumbs  twice  so  as  to  have  them  well  covered,  plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan 
of  boiling  fat  and  fry  them  to  a  good  brown  color.  When  done  take  them  out,  drain, 
and  place  them  on  a  napkin  spread  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  parsley  for  garnish. 

Fillets  of  Trout,  Aurora. 

Cut  the  fillets  from  three  trout,  form  them  into  any  desired  shape,  place  them  in 
a  sautepan  with  a  little  warmed  butter,  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook 
them  quickly  over  the  fire  until  they  are  done,  turning  them  often  so  as  to  have  them 
well  done  on  both  sides.  Place  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  quantity  of  aurora  sauce, 
or  sauce  made  red  with  lobster  spawn,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Fillets  of  Trout,  Sauted. 

Separate  the  bones  from  the  fillets,  cut  each  fillet  into  halves, put  them  in  a  buttered 
sautepan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk  fire.  Put  one-half 
pound  of  lobster  butter  into  a  saucepan,  with  the  yolks  of  four  or  five  eggs,  the  juice 


FISH.  87 

of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  all  together  over  a  clear  fire  till  well 
mixed;  then  pour  in  one  half-pint  of  melted  butter  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  essence  of 
anchovy.  Stir  the  sauce  till  thick  and  on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  move  it  off  the 
fire.  When  cooked  place  the  fillets  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine 
sieve  over  them  and  serve. 

Fried  Trout. 

Choose  small  trout,  wash  and  clean  them  well,  and  cut  off  their  fins.  Season  one 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  the  fish  well  in  it.  Put  a 
large  piece  of  lard  or  clarified  fat  in  a  stewpan,  and  place  it  over  the  fire;  when  the 
blue  smoke  rises  put  in  the  fish  and  fry  them  until  nicely  browned.  When  cooked 
drain  them  on  a  sheet  of  kitchen  paper  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  then  place  them  on  a  hot 
dish  over  which  has  been  spread  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  or  a  folded  napkin,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Trout,  Hussar  Style. 

Scale  and  clean  a  trout,  draw  it  by  the  gills,  and  stuff  it  with  butter  mixed  up 
with  finely-chopped  sweet  herbs.  In  stuffing  great  care  must  be  exercised  to  see  that 
the  skin  is  not  broken.  Rub  the  fish  well  with  warmed  butter  or  oil,  sprinkle  it  over 
well  with  pepper  and  salt,  put  it  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil  it  ;  or  it 
may  be  put  in  a  dish  in  the  oven  and  baked.  Place  it  on  a  dish  when  done  and 
serve  with  poivrade  sauce,  in  a  sauceboat. 

Trout  in   Papers. 

Take  half  a  dozen  trout  of  one-fourth  pound  each  in  weight,  and  stuff  them  with 
fish  forcemeat.  Oil  as  many  pieces  of  paper  as  there  are  fish,  place  a  slice  of  salt 
pork  on  either  end  of  each  piece,  lay  a  trout  on  top,  sprinkle  over  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  fold  the  paper  and  tie  it  securely  with  a  string.  Cook  in  a  baking-dish  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes  or  so,  and  serve  them  in  their  envelopes,  after 
removing  the  strings,  with  any  sauce  desired  in  a  sauceboat. 

Trout,  Venetian  Style. 

Scale  and  clean  a  large  trout,  wash  and  dry  it  well,  score  it  across  the  back  and 
insert  in  the  openings  some  butter  highly  seasoned  with  minced  basil,  lemon  thyme, 
chives,  and  parsley.  Put  the  trout  in  a  dish,  pour  over  salad  oil  to  cover  it,  and  let 
it  remain  for  half  an  hour;  then  remove  it,  sprinkle  over  sifted  breadcrumbs  stirred 
in  with  a  small  quantity  of  chopped  herbs,  place  it  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire, 
and  broil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  or  so,  or  until  it  is  done.  Place  it  on  a  dish  and  serve 
with  orange  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 


88  FISH. 

Trout  with   Remoulade. 

Select  some  medium-sized  trout  and  fry  them  in  butter;  when  cooked  place  them 
for  a  minute  on  a  sheet  of  kitchen  paper,  in  order  to  drain  off  as  much  of  the  fat  as 
possible.  Chop  in  moderate  quantities  some  chives,  capers,  parsley,  chervil,  water- 
cress and  a  small  quantity  of  shallots;  then  pound  these  in  a  mortar  and  mix  in  one 
teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  one  teacupful  of 
salad  oil.  The  oil  must  be  mixed  in  drop  by  drop,  so  that  it  may  incorporate  thor- 
oughly with  the  other  ingredients.  When  the  sauce  is  perfectly  smooth  mix  in  a 
small  quantity  of  chili  vinegar.  Spread  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin 
over  a  dish,  lay  the  trout  on  it,  garnish  round  with  parsley  and  serve  with  the  sauce 
in  a  sauceboat. 

Baked    Turbot. 

Clean  and  wash  a  small  turbot,  place  it  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  small  quantity  of 
hot  butter,  sprinkle  with  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley,  powdered  mace,  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  allow  it  to  remain  for  an  hour.  Lift  the  fish  up  carefully  and  place  it  in  a 
baking  dish.  Brush  it  over  with  egg,  then  cover  with  sifted  breadcrumbs,  set  it  in 
the  oven  and  bake.  When  done  remove,  put  it  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  any  desired 
fish  sauce. 

Boiled  Turbot  with   Lobster  Sauce. 

Place  a  turbot  in  a  fish  kettle  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  lump  of  salt,  plenty  of 
cold  water  and  the  juice  of  two  large  lemons.  When  the  water  begins  to  boil  move 
the  kettle  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  fish  is  tender.  Have  pre- 
pared the  following  sauce:  Pick  the  meat  from  a  hen  lobster  and  cut  it  into  moder- 
ate-sized pieces;  place  the  shell  and  spawn  in  a  mortar  with  a  lump  of  butter  and 
pound  it  until  smooth,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Make  three-fourths  of 
a  pint  of  butter  sauce,  put  the  pieces  of  lobster  in  it,  and  season  it  with  a  very  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  pepper.  When  the  sauce  boils  stir  in  the  pounded  mixture  and 
one  teacupful  of  cream,  and  move  the  pan  to  the  edge  of  the  fire.  When  the  turbot 
is  cooked  drain  it  well,  lay  it  on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  nap- 
kin, place  a  border  of  fresh  green  parsley  round  the  dish  and  then  a  circle  of  quarters 
of  lemon.  Serve  the  fish  while  hot  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat.  The  fish  does  not 
require  much  boiling. 

Broiled   Trout. 

Clean  and  wipe  the  fish  quite  dry,  split  it  down  the  back  and  let  it  soak  for 
nearly  an  hour  in  warm  butter  with  chopped  sweet  herbs,  salt,  pepper  and  parsley ; 
then  cover  it  with  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire.  Serve  with 
lemon  juice  or  orange  juice  squeezed  over. 


FISH  89 

Fillets  of  Turbot  with   Cream  Sauce. 

Separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones  of  some  cooked  turbot,  skin  them,  leave  till 
cold,  then  cut  them  into  collops.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  into  a  stewpan  with 
four  ounces  of  butter  and  one-half  teacupful  of  cream,  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper 
and  a  small  quantity  of  glaze  ;  season  to  taste  with  salt,  stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire 
until  it  is  thick,  then  remove  it  to  the  side  and  put  in  the  fillets  of  turbot.  Turn  the 
turbot  and  sauce  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  serve.  If  preferred,  the  mixture  can  be  served 
in  a  vol-au-vent. 

Turbot  with   Black   Butter. 

Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  some  cold  cooked  turbot  and  cut  the  fish  into 
nice  sized  pieces.  Put  a  large  piece  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  and  boil  it  until  it 
comes  to  be  of  a  dark  color ;  then  put  in  a  moderate  quantity  of  finely-chopped 
parsley  and  one  wineglassful  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Put  the  fish  into  the  sauce  and  keep  it  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  heated 
through  and  through.  Turn  the  fish  with  the  butter  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Vol-au-Vent  of  Fish,  Normandy. 

Prepare  a  puff  paste  with  one  pound  each  of  flour  and  butter  and  one  ounce  of 
salt.  Roll  the  paste  out  to  a  thickness  of  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch,  and  cut  it 
round  to  the  size  of  the  dish  on  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Place  the  flat  of  paste  on 
a  baking  sheet,  brush  it  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  cut  a  circle  through  the  middle 
about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  deep,  leaving  an  edge  about  one  inch  wide  all  round. 
Bake  the  paste  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  cooked  lift  up  the  center  piece  which 
will  have  risen  ;  scoop  out  the  uncooked  paste,  brush  the  inside  with  beaten  egg,  and 
place  it  in  an  oven  for  five  minutes  longer.  Prepare  a  filling  of  scalloped  fillets  of 
soles,  mussels,  oysters  and  sliced  mushrooms.  Mix  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  mussels 
with  some  lean  veloute  sauce,  boil  it  until  somewhat  reduced,  then  thicken  it  with 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Mix  the  sauce  with  the  garnishing,  place  the  cover  of 
paste  on,  stand  it  on  the  dish  it  was  made  to  fit,  and  serve. 

Deviled  Whitebait. 

Wash  the  fish,  drain  well  on  a  sieve,  dry  them  in  a  soft  cloth  and  then  drop  them  on 
a  well-floured  cloth,  carefully  rolling  each  little  fish  over  in  it,  so  that  they  shall  all  be 
nicely  and  evenly  floured.  Put  them  immediately  into  a  frying-basket,  and  dip  them 
into  extremely  hot  boiling  lard  ;  hold  it  there  for  a  very  short  time,  lift  the  basket 
out  of  the  lard,  and  dust  the  fish  over  with  black  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  salt  ; 
some  cooks  dip  them  again  into  the  boiling  lard  for  a  second,  remove  them,  sprinkle 
with  cayenne  pepper,  and  serve. 


9o  FISH. 

Fried  Whitebait. 

Wash  the  fish,  drain  well  on  a  wire  sieve,  dry  them  in  a  soft  cloth,  and  then  drop 
them,  when  quite  dry,  on  to  a  well-floured  cloth,  rolling  each  fish  carefully  in  it. 
Put  them  immediately  into  a  frying  basket,  dip  them  into  extremely  hot  lard,  hold 
it  there  until  the  fish  is  crisp,  which  will  be  before  it  browns,  take  it  out  while  still 
white,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible  on  a  napkin  laid  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish 
with  fried  parsley,  and  quarters  of  lemon.  Serve  with  them  cayenne,  grated  lemo  i 
peel  and  thin  slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter. 

Baked   Fillets   of  Whitefish. 

Scale  some  large  whitefish,  split  them,  remove  the  backbone,  season  the  fille*  > 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  again  in 
beaten  egg,  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  again  in  beaten  egg.  Put  a  lump  of  fresh 
lard  in  a  baking  dish,  heat  it,  and  then  put  in  the  fillets.  Bake  the  fish  in  the  oven 
for  twenty  minutes,  until  they  are  lightly  colored.  When  cooked,  drain  the  grease 
off  the  fillets,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with 
potatoes  and  a  sauceboatful  of  parsley  sauce. 


Shell-Fish. 

Clam    Fritters. 

Place  some  fresh  clams  into  one  pan,  and  the  liquor  from  them  into  another. 
Prepare  a  mixture  of  broken  crackers  and  flour  in  equal  quantities,  and  dip  the 
clams  first  into  their  own  liquor  and  then  into  this,  repeating  this  operation  three 
times  ;  finally  dipping  them  into  milk,  and  then  again  into  the  flour  mixture.  Have 
prepared  some  boiling  lard,  drop  in  a  few  clams  at  a  time,  let  them  fry  for  about  five 
minutes ;  then  remove  them  with  a  skimmer,  place  them  on  a  strainer,  drain  away  the 
fat,  and  they  are  ready  to  be  served.  The  pan  containing  the  lard  should  be  so  deep 
that  the  clams  will  be  covered  when  put  in. 

Scalloped   Clams. 

Wash  thoroughly  six  or  eight  good  sized  clam  shells,  fill  them  with  clam  force- 
meat, flatten  them  with  the  hand,  spread  over  sifted  breadcrumbs,  smooth  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife,  and  moisten  with  a  little  clarified  butter.  Arrange  them  on  a  baking 
pan  and  bake  until  they  are  well  browned,  or  for  about  six  minutes.  Place  them  on 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve  at  once,  with  sprigs  of  parsley  for  garnish. 

Steamed   Clams. 

Scrub  the  shells  of  some  clams  well  in  water  ;  then  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
without  any  water,  place  them  over  the  fire,  and  cook  until  the  shells  open.  Remove 
the  clams  with  a  skimmer,  pour  the  liquor  into  a  jar  and  let  it  settle.  'There  will  be 
no  use  in  straining  the  liquor  through  the  finest  strainer,  but  a  piece  of  linen  may  be 
used,  or  if  allowed  to  settle,  and  care  be  taken  not  to  move  the  sediment,  the  water 
can  be  poured  off.  Remove  the  clams  from  their  shells,  pulling  off  the  thin  skin 
round  the  edge,  and  cutting  off  the  whole  of  the  black  end  with  a  pair  of  scissors. 
Plunge  each  clam  into  a  small  quantity  of  the  liquor,  and  if  at  all  tough  cut  that  part 
through.  When  the  water  has  settled  pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  add  the  clams  and 
make  it  hot,  though  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Take  out  the  clams  and  serve  with  brown 
bread  and  butter,  toasted  crackers,  or  on  pieces  of  buttered  toast. 

Stewed   Clams. 

Remove  about  three  dozen  small  clams  from  their  shells,  place  them  with  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a  stewpan,  one  pinch  of  chives  and  one  pinch  of  finely 


92  SHELL-FISH. 

chopped  chervil,  adding  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  water,  so  that  it  may  not  be  too 
salt;  also  a  small  pinch  of  pepper  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  and 
boil  for  two  minutes.  Turn  all  out  on  to  a  dish  and  serve  with  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  squeezed  over. 

Little-Neck   Clams   Served   Raw. 

Wash  a  number  of  these  clams  in  water,  scrubbing  them  with  a  brush,  wipe  them 
dry  on  a  cloth,  open  and  cut  them  clear  from  their  shells.  Place  five  on  a  plate  on 
the  half  shells,  placing  half  a  lemon  in  the  center  of  the  plate,  and  serve  with  crack- 
ers and  a  small  dish  of  finely  chopped  cold  cabbage. 


Soft   Clams,  Ancient   Style. 


Take  a  dozen  nice,  large,  soft  clams,  wash  them  well  and  open  them,  keeping 
only  one  part  of  the  shell  with  the  clam.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  on  each  clam  and 
plenty  of  Paprika  pepper  and  a  little  strip  of  raw  bacon.  Put  the  clams  on  a  roast- 
ing pan,  which  place  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  ten  minutes  and  serve  it  on  the  pan 
in  which  the  clams  have  been  cooked. 

Fried   Soft   Clams. 

Thoroughly  wash  one  bunch  or  one  pint  of  soft  clams  taken  out  of  their  shells 
in  cold  water  to  free  them  from  sand  and  lay  them  separately  on  a  towel  to  dry ; 
have  ready  a  frying  kettle  about  half  full  of  fat  and  place  this  over  the  fire.  While 
the  fat  is  heating,  prepare  a  dish  of  beaten  raw  eggs  and  a  platter  full  of  bread- 
crumbs or  cracker  dust;  roll  the  clams  in  the  crumbs,  then  dip  them  in  the  beaten 
eggs ;  roll  thern  once  more  in  crumbs,  and  when  the  fat  is  smoking  hot,  place  them 
in  it  and  fry  to  a  golden  brown.  Take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  on  brown 
paper  to  drain  off  the  fat  and  serve  hot.  They  may  be  sent  to  the  table  with  a  gar- 
nish of  lemon  cut  in  quarters  or  a  dish  of  sliced  fresh  or  pickled  cabbage. 


Soft   Clams,  Newburg. 


Thoroughly  clean  and  remove  all  sand  from  about  forty  to  forty-five  soft  fresh 
clams,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  half  a  pinch  of  white 
pepper,  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  a  couple  of  well-hashed  truffles,  place  on 
the  lid  and  cook  gently  for  about  eight  minutes ;  then  break  three  egg  yolks  into  a 
bowl,  add  a  pint  of  sweet  cream  and  beat  thoroughly  for  about  three  minutes,  then 
pour  it  over  the  clams,  stir  gently  the  clams  for  three  minutes  longer  and  pour  them 
into  a  hot  tureen,  sending  to  table  at  once. 


SHELL-FISH.  93 

Stewed   Soft   Clams. 

Thoroughly  wash  about  three  and  a  half  dozen  of  fresh  soft  clams  so  that  no  sand 
remains  on  them  after  they  are  opened,  lay  them  carefully  on  the  palm  of  the  left 
hand,  and  with  the  right  hand  remove  the  body  with  care,  but  nothing  more,  being 
cautious  not  to  break  it  and  throwing  away  all  the  other  parts.  When  all  are  pre- 
pared place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  small  pinch  of  white  pepper, 
one  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  two  finely-hashed  medium  sized  truffles ;  place 
the  cover  on  the  pan  and  cook  gently  for  seven  or  eight  minutes.  Break  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs  into  a  bowl,  add  one  pint  of  sweet  cream  and  beat  well  for  three  minutes. 
Pour  this  over  the  clams  and  toss  the  saucepan  for  about  three  minutes  more  very 
gently  to  thoroughly  mix  the  clams  with  -the  cream  but  not  letting  the  liquor  boil 
again.  Neither  fork  nor  spoon  should  ever  be  used  in  mixing  them.  Pour  the  whole 
into  a  hot  dish  and  serve  at  once. 

Crabs. 

Crabs  are  in  season  from  April  to  September,  and  in  May  they  lose  entirely  the 
dryness  of  flesh  for  which  they  are  noted  during  the  winter  months.  The  richest 
flavored  crabs  are  those  of  medium  size,  say  from  six  to  ten  inches  in  their  broadest 
diameter.  They  should  be  boiled  alive,  being  plunged  into  cold  water,  and,  as  the 
water  warms,  a  handful  or  so  of  salt  should  be  thrown  in  upon  them,  and  when  the 
water  has  been  boiling  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  crabs,  they  may  be  considered  sufficiently  cooked.  If  placed  in  hot  water  at 
first,  they  are  apt  to  throw  off  their  claws  by  a  violent  jerk,  and  then  the  water  would 
soak  into  the  flesh  and  make  it  sloppy.  After  the  salt  is  thrown  in,  the  scum  which 
rises  to  the  top  of  the  water  should  be  carefully  skimmed  off.  The  claws  of  large 
crabs  should  be  tied  to  prevent  their  opening  and  pinching  or  injuring  each  other. 
Crabs  are  usually  sold  ready  boiled,  which  is,  of  course,  a  great  convenience  to  the 
cook,  whose  next  care  is  that  of  selection.  The  best  crabs  are  always  heavy,  accord- 
ing to  size ;  the  claws  and  legs  should  be  all  on.  They  should  be  firm  and  stiff,  and 
the  eyes  bright  rather  than  dull.  The  male  crab  has  larger  claws  than  the  female, 
but  less  body  in  proportion,  therefore  selection  should  depend  upon  whether  the  pref- 
erence leans  to  white  meat  or  to  the  more  mellow  liver  and  creamy  fat  which  sur- 
rounds it.  The  female  also  has  a  much  broader  tail  than  the  male. 

Buttered  Crab. 

Remove  the  meat  from  a  large  boiled  crab,  cut  it  up  small  and  mix  with  bread- 
crumbs and  chopped  parsley,  having  about  a  third  of  the  bulk  of  the  crab  meat. 
Season  and  put  a  few  pieces  of  butter  over  it ;  pack  it  back  in  the  shell,  pour  over  a 
little  lemon  juice,  cover  with  a  layer  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  place  a  few  more  lumps 
of  butter  on  the  top,  set  in  a  slow  oven  and  cook  until  done. 


94  SHELL-FISH. 

Crab    Croquettes.    > 

Remove  the  meat  from  the  shells  of  two  medium-sized  crabs,  and  chop  it  fairly 
fine.  Melt  in  a  saucepan  three  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  into  this  three  ounces  of 
flour.  Add  gradually  one-half  pint  of  milk,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  then  allow  it  to 
cook  for  ten  minutes;  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  stove,  and  to  the  hot  milk,  flour 
and  butter  add  the  chopped  meat  of  the  crabs,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  (not  more  than  would  lie  on  the  end  of 
a  small  knife  blade),  mix  thoroughly  together,  turn  the  whole  out  on  to  a  plate  and 
let  it  cool;  when  it  is  fairly  cold  make  it  into  little  rolls  nearly  three  inches  long,  and 
egg  and  breadcrumb  these  by  brushing  them  all  over  with  beaten  egg  and  then  rolling 
in  breadcrumbs.  Fry  them  in  hot  lard  or  clarified  fat  for  two  minutes,  or  until  they 
are  a  nice  golden  brown,  allow  them  to  drain  on  a  sheet  of  paper  for  an  instant  and 
serve  on  a  folded  napkin  with  a  little  fried  parsley  for  garnish. 

Deviled   Crabs. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and 
cook  together,  stirring  it  continually  to  prevent  its  burning;  add  to  it  one  large  tumbler- 
ful of  rich  cream,  one  boiled  soft  onion  mashed  to  a  paste  or  pulp,  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg, and  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Then  put  in  the  crab  meat,  enough 
to  fill  eight  crab  shells  and  a  raw  egg  or  two,  stir  all  together  well  and  cook  until  it 
begins  to  thicken,  which  will  only  take  a  few  minutes;  then  pour  it  all  on  a  flat  dish 
and  allow  it  to  stand  until  cold.  Now  fill  the  back  crab  shells  with  the  mixture,  egg 
them  over  with  a  brush  and  cover  with  grated  breadcrumbs  or  cracker  dust.  Place 
them  in  a  bakingpan,  put  a  small  lump  of  butter  on  top  of  each,  and  bake  in  a  slow 
oven  to  a  light  brown  color,  or  fry  them  in  plenty  of  hot  lard. 

Crabs   in   Shells. 

Boil  a  few  crabs,  pick  out  the  meat  and  place  the  coral  on  one  side.  Chop  up 
the  meat,  add  to  it  one  onion,  ground  ginger,  lemon  juice,  mushroom  catsup,  salt  and 
pepper ;  put  the  mixture  into  a  fryingpan  with  butter  and  cook  until  the  butter  is 
absorbed.  Pour  in  a  little  stock,  boil  until  nearly  evaporated,  then  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire.  Butter  five  of  the  crab  shells  and  fill  them  with  the  mixture.  Grind 
the  coral,  mingle  it  with  some  breadcrumbs,  sprinkle  this  over  the  mixture,  put  a  few 
small  lumps  of  butter  on  the  tops,  place  the  shells  in  the  oven,  and  bake  for  a  few 
minutes. 

Minced   Crabs. 

Place  the  finely  chopped  meat  of  three  crabs  into  a  saucepan,  pour  over  one  wine- 
glassful  of  white  wine  and  one  of  vinegar,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
cayenne  pepper.  Cook  over  a  moderate  fire  for  about  ten  minutes,  and  add  two 


SHELL-FISH.  95 

ounces  of  warmed  butter,  mixed  with  one  boned  anchovy,  and  stir  in  the  well  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs.  Sprinkle  in  sufficient  breadcrumbs  to  thicken  properly,  turn  the 
whole  out  on  to  a  dish,  and  serve  with  parsley  for  a  garnish. 


Crabs,  Queen   Style. 


Pick  about  a  dozen  hard-shell  boiled  crabs  into  as  large  pieces  as  possible ; 
mix  them  in  a  salad  bowl,  with  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  sliced  celery  or  shredded 
lettuce,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper,  one  pinch  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil,  and 
one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Refill  six  well  cleaned  shells  with  the 
salad,  and  on  each  one  lay  one  tablespoonful  of  mayonnaise  sauce ;  and  sprinkle  over 
with  chopped  hard  boiled  egg,  the  yolk  separated  from  the  white,  some  crab  or  lob- 
ster coral,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  every  article  to  be  used  sepa- 
rately in  order  that  each  color  may  be  distinct.  Serve  on  a  dish  with  a  folded 
napkin,  or  ornamental  dish-paper. 

Crab    Ravigote. 

Boil  some  large  hard-shell  crabs,  after  which  put  them  aside  to  become  cold. 
Then  turn  them  over  on  the  hard  shell  side  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  breast 
away.  Pick  the  meat  off,  clean  it  nicely,  being  careful  not  to  leave  any  pieces  of 
shell  in  it,  and  season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  with  thick  remoulade  sauce 
and  fill  up  one  of  the  shells,  which  has  previously  been  washed  clean,  with  the  mix- 
ture. The  meat  of  two  good-sized  crabs  so  treated  will  be  sufficient  to  fill  the  inside 
of  one  shell.  Cover  the  meat  with  mayonnaise  and  decorate  with  fillet  of  anchovy 
and  sliced  pickles.  Serve  on  a  folded  napkin  with  branches  of  parsley  and  quartered 
lemon. 

Stewed   Crabs. 

Take  eight  live  crabs  and  steam  for  twenty  minutes;  pick  out  the  meats,  put  it 
in  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  of  milk  or  cream  and  stew  for  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
utes. Season  with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt. 

Broiled   Soft-Shell   Crabs. 

Dip  some  soft-shell  crabs  into  melted  butter  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Then  put  them  on  the  fire  and  broil  them  until  the  shells  are  slightly  brown.  As 
soon  as  they  are  done  serve  them  hot  with  melted  butter  or  lemon  juice  or  with  a 
lemon  cut  into  quarters.  Slices  of  hot  dry  toast  may  be  laid  under  them 

Fried   Soft-Shell    Crabs. 

Have  a  dish  of  cracker  dust  mixed  with  a  little  pepper  and  on  the  stove  a  pan 
half  full  of  smoking  hot  fat;  beat  two  eggs,  roll  the  crabs  in  the  crumbs  and  dip  them 


96  SHELL-FISH. 

in  the  eggs,  then  roll  them  again  in  the  crumbs  and  put  in  the  hot  fat  to  fry.  Take 
them  out  with  a  skimmer,  lay  on  brown  paper  to  free  them  from  grease  and  serve 
them  while  hot. 

Stewed   Soft-Shell  Crabs  with  Okras. 

Brown  in  a  saucepan  with  one-half  ounce  or  so  of  butter  a  chopped  onion,  an 
ounce  or  more  of  raw  ham  cut  into  dice,  half  of  a  green  pepper  pod,  also  cut  into 
dice,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Moisten  with 
about  one  quart  of  white  broth  or  consomme,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  uncooked  rice, 
six  sliced  okras,  also  a  sliced  tomato.  Allow  all  these  to  cook  thoroughly  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  and  five  minutes  before  serving  add  the  meat  of  three  well-washed, 
minced,  soft-shell  crabs. 

Fried   Oyster   Crabs. 

Wash  and  dry  about  one  and  one-half  pints  of  oyster  crabs,  dip  them  first  in 
flour,  and  then  in  cold  milk,  and  finally  in  cracker  dust  or  well  sifted  breadcrumbs. 
Shake  them  up  well  in  a  colander,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Serve 
in  croustades  made  of  short  paste,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over 
before  serving. 

Stewed   Oyster   Crabs,  Poulette   Style. 

Remove  all  the  meat  from  a  pint  and  a  half  of  oyster  crabs,  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, pouring  on  a  little  of  their  liquor,  and  add  to  this  one  ounce  of  butter,  pepper 
and  salt  ;  parboil  for  three  or  four  minutes,  add  carefully  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
Hollandaise  sauce,  stew  for  two  or  three  minutes  longer,  but  do  not  boil,  add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  one  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley  ;  stir  gently,  and 
it  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Crayfish   Boiled  in   Court   Bouillon. 

Put  some  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  add  a  little  celery  root,  onion  and  leek,  all 
finely  minced,  place  the  pan  on  a  moderate  fire  and  fry  them.  Then  add  a  little 
white  wine,  salt,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  few  peppercorns.  Boil  for  seven  or 
eight  minutes,  and  then  throw  in  twenty-five  live  crayfish;  cover  over  the  pan  and 
boil  for  eight  minutes  longer.  Toss  them  in  the  pan  a  little,  remove,  place  on  a 
strainer  to  drain,  and  then  on  a  dish.  Strain  the  liquid,  reduce  it  by  boiling  to  half 
its  original  quantity,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  pour  it  over. 

Crayfish,  Bordelaise   Style. 

Place  two  dozen  selected  crayfish  in  a  pan  with  water  and  a  little  milk  mixed, 
and  allow  them  to  soak  for  two  or  three  hours;  then  remove  them  and  place  on  a 
strainer  to  drain.  In  the  meantime  make  a  good  mirepoix  of  vegetables  with  Bor- 


SHELL-FISH.  97 

deaux  wine,  and  add  to  the  liquor  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  slice  of  raw  ham,  one  small 
wineglassful  of  cognac,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira  and  a  little  salt.  Put 
the  lid  on  the  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  boil  five  or  seven  minutes;  when  it. 
is  boiling  hot  throw  in  the  crayfish,  and  leave  for  ten  minutes,  after  which  pour  the 
liquor  through  a  sieve;  reduce  it  to  half,  adding  slowly  one  pint  of  veloute  sauce. 
When  sufficiently  reduced  strain  it  through  a  cloth  into  another  pan,  and  stir  in  one- 
fourth  pound  of  good  butter,  a  small  piece  of  crayfish  butter,  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  finely  chopped  parsley.  Remove  the  small  claws,  put  them  in  a  group  in  the  center 
of  the  dish,  and  arrange  the  bodies  round,  garnishing  all  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley. 
The  sauce  must  be  served  separately. 

Crayfish   Mariniere. 

Remove  the  small  claws  from  a  dozen  or  two  of  crayfish,  place  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  boil  with  wine  until  done.  Drain  off  the  liquor,  allow  it  to  settle,  and  then 
pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  to  clarify  it.  Take  an  onion,  chop  it  up  finely,  and  fry 
gently  so  that  it  does  not  color  at  all.  Pour  on  a  little  of  the  crayfish  liquor  and  also 
a  little  wine,  and  boil  for  three  minutes.  Next  put  in  a  lump  of  butter  worked  into 
some  breadcrumbs  and  finely-chopped  parsley  to  thicken  it,  and  finally  add  a  little 
cayenne  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Place  the  crayfish  on  a  dish  and  pour  the  sauce 
over. 

Crayfish   Patties. 

Place  two  dozen  crayfish  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt,  a  few  peppercorns, 
some  finely  chopped  vegetables,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  little  vinegar  or  white  wine  ; 
cover  over  the  pan,  place  it  on  a  good  fire  and  when  the  fish  have  cooled  a  little  re- 
move the  meat  from  the  tails  and  claws  and  cut  it  up  into  small  pieces,  placing  them 
in  a  small  stewpan  and  thickening  with  a  little  white  sauce.  When  wanted  for  serving 
fill  a  dozen  or  so  of  (bouchees)  patties  with  the  preparation  and  garnish  with  lobster 
coral  and  parsley. 

Timbale  of  Crayfish. 

In  order  to  have  this  dish  sufficient  for  a  large  party  a  great  number  of  crayfish 
are  required  for  it.  Having  picked  out  the  tails  of  something  like  one  hundred  and 
fifty  crayfish,  brush  each  "one  over  with  some  warmed  crayfish  butter.  Have  ready 
some  very  c'vear  savoury  jelly  and  a  large  timbale  mould  ;  warm  the  jelly  to  the  liquid 
state,  pick  up  each  tail  with  a  larding  needle  and  dip  into  the  jelly  ;  then  arrange  them 
neatly  around  the  mould ;  the  jelly  will  cause  them  to  adhere.  When  the  top  is 
reached  (remember  the  mound  will  be  upside  down  and  should  be  packed  in  ice) 
leave  the  jelly  fixing  the  tails  to  set.  Pick  out  all  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  bodies 
and  chop  up  very  finely ;  mix  this  mince  with  enough  warm  jelly  to  fill  the  timbale 
and  leave  that  also  to  set.  When  the  jelly  is  firm,  dip  the  mould  for  an  instant  in  tepid 


98  SHELL-FISH. 

water,  wipe  it  and  then  turn  the  timbale  out  on  to  a  dish.     Garnish  with  croutons  of 
jelly  and  an  attelette  decorated  with  truffles. 

Edible   Snails. 

Snails  are  cleaned  by  placing  them  in  boiling  water  with  some  wood  ashes  and 
leaving  them  until  they  have  thrown  their  cover  wide  open  which  will  take  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour ;  they  should  then  be  removed  and  picked  carefully  out  of  their  shells 
with  a  fork.  Put  them  in  a  basin  of  tepid  water  and  leave  for  two  or  three  hours. 
Afterwards  rub  them  well  in  the  hands  and  wash  them  in  several  changes  of  cold 
water,  The  shells  are  put  in  warm  water,  scrubbed  with  a  brush  and  then  wiped  dry. 

Baked   Edible   Snails. 

Work  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  into  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  season 
with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  grated  nutmeg.  Put  a  piece  of  the  prepared  butter  into  each  of  the  shells  (there 
should  be  about  twenty-five  shells  for  the  above  quantity  of  butter),  then  put  a  snail 
into  each  of  the  shells,  and  another  piece  of  butter  on  top.  Lay  the  snails  close 
together  in  a  cast  iron  pan,  the  mouths  of  the  snails  upwards,  and  not  one  upon 
another  ;  cover  the  pan  so  as  to  render  it  air  tight,  and  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven. 
When  the  parsley  begins  to  look  dark,  the  snails  will  be  sufficiently  cooked.  Arrange 
the  snails  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  folded  napkin,  leaving  them  in  their  shells,  and  serve 
as  hot  as  possible. 

Edible   Snails,  Bourgoyne. 

Take  some  Bourgoyne  edible  snails,  disgorge  them  with  a  little  salt  for  two  or 
three  days,  wash  several  times  in  cold  water,  strain  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
covering  them  with  water.  Add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some  cloves  and  whole 
pepper  tied  in  a  cloth,  and  salt  to  taste  ;  cook  until  the  snails  fall  from  their 
shells,  empty  them,  clipping  off  their  tails,  and  cleaning  the  shells  well.  Mix  together 
some  shallots,  parsley  and  butter,  and  chervil  chopped  very  fine  ;  put  this  into  a  bowl 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine, 
season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  knead  well.  Partly  fill  the  shells  with  this 
mixture,  replace  the  snails,  and  complete  the  filling  with  more  of  the  kneaded  butter  ; 
spread  breadcrumbs  over,  and  lay  them  on  a  baking  dish,  the  opened  part  on  the  top. 
Brown  in  the  oven  for  four  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Baked   Frogs'  Legs. 

Prepare  and  clean  one  dozen  frogs'  legs,  put  a  thick  layer  of  minced  mushrooms 
and  sifted  brown  breadcrumbs  in  a  baking  dish,  lay  the  pieces  of  legs  on  them,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  strew  a  few  sweet  herbs  over,  also  more  sifted  crumbs,  put  two 
or  three  small  bits  of  lemon  peel  on  the  top,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and 


SHELL-FISH.  99 

pour  in  about  one  breakfast  cupful  of  brown  gravy.  Cover  the  whole  with  a  sheet  of 
buttered  paper  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked,  brown 
them  under  a  salamander,  and  serve  in  the  same  dish. 

Broiled    Frogs'  Legs. 

Prepare  eighteen  frogs  as  follows:  Lay  the  frogs  on  their  backs.  Make  a  long 
incision  from  the  neck  along  the  side  of  the  belly;  make  another  at  right  angles  across 
the  middle  of  the  belly,  dissect  cut  the  entrails  and  cut  away  the  head,  leaving  only 
the  back  and  legs.  Skin  the  frogs  and  chop  off  their  feet,  wash  them  thoroughly  and 
blanch  in  scalding  salted  water.  Then  lay  the  hindquarters  on  a  dish  and  pour  over 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  lemon 
juice.  Roll  the  frogs  around  several  times  in  this  seasoning,  place  on  a  broiler  and 
broil  for  four  minutes  on  each  side.  Take  them  off,  arrange  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve 
with  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  poured  over. 

Fricasseed    Frogs'  Legs. 

Prepare  twelve  saddles  or  hindquarters  of  frogs  as  above  and  put  them  in  a  flat- 
bottomed  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  finely-minced 
shallot.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  cook  until  the  butter  begins  to  brown,  then 
pour  over  a  teacupful  of  sherry,  cover  the  pan  and  stew  for  twenty  minutes;  skim  off 
most  of  the  butter  and  add  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste.  Put  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  in  the  stock  to  thicken,  mixing  the  eggs  in  a  little  of  the 
hot  liquor  before  adding  them,  and  as  soon  as  the  contents  of  the  pan  show  signs  of 
boiling  remove  it  from  the  fire.  Place  the  frogs  on  a  dish  with  the  legs  sticking  out 
all  around  and  the  thick  part  forming  a  circle  in  the  center;  strain  the  sauce  and  pour 
it  over  them.  The  wine  and  eggs  are  not  always  used  in  the  cooking. 

Fried   Frogs'  Legs. 

Prepare  eighteen  frogs'  legs  and  put  them  in  a  bowl  with  a  marinade  composed 
of  one  tablespoonful  each  of  vinegar  and  sweet  oil  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Mix 
well  together  in  the  bowl,  immerse  them  in  frying  batter,  plunge  them  singly  into 
very  hot  fat  and  fry  for  five  minutes.  Drain,  arrange  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  folded  nap- 
kin and  garnish  with  parsley.  Any  desired  sauce  may  be  served  with  this  dish. 

Stewed    Frogs'  Legs. 

Melt  half  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  in  it  brown  one 
chopped  onion,  about  one  ounce  of  raw  ham  cut  into  dice,  half  a  green  pepper  pod 
cut  small,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper;  moisten  with 
one  quart  of  white  broth  or  consomme;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  rice,  six  sliced  gumbos 


ioo  SHELL-FISH. 

and  one  sliced  tomato,  and  cook  thoroughly  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Add  a 
quarter  of  prepared  frogs'  legs  five  minutes  before  serving.  Turn  out  on  a  dish  and 
serve.  If  desired,  one  green  pepper  and  two  tomatoes  may  be  substituted  in  place  of 
the  gumbo. 

Lobster,  American   Style. 

Procure  two  good  sized  freshly  boiled  lobsters  and  split  them,  removing  all  of 
the  meat  very  carefully,  and  cut  it  up  into  pieces  about  an  inch  in  length;  and  have 
in  readiness  a  pan  on  top  of  a  range  half  full  of  good  olive  oil,  and  when  the  oil  has 
become  very  hot  add  pieces  of  the  lobster.  Chop  very  fine  one  peeled  onion,  one 
green  pepper,  and  half  a  peeled  clove,  some  sound  garlic,  place  it  with  the  lobster 
and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  red  pepper,  to  which  add  half  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine.  After 
two  minutes'  reduction  add  one  gill  of  tomato  sauce  and  a  medium  sized  peeled 
tomato,  cut  into  small  dice.  Continue  cooking  for  ten  minutes,  gently  stirring  the 
while,  then  pour  the  whole  into  a  hot  dish  or  tureen  and  serve. 

Baked   Lobsters. 

Place  a  live  lobster  in  boiling  fish  broth;  when  it  is  cooked,  drain  and  split  it  in 
half  lengthwise,  pick  the  meat  out  of  the  tail  and  claws,  cut  it  in  small  pieces,  and 
mix  in  an  equal  quantity  of  mushrooms,  also  cut  in  dice.  Place  the  coral  of  the 
lobster  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  butter,  pound,  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve. 
Put  a  few  'tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  cream  and 
melted  glaze,  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  is  well  reduced,  then  mix  with  it  the  pieces  of 
lobster  and  mushrooms,  sprinkle  in  a  little  cayenne,  and  add  the  pounded  coral. 
Clean  the  two  shells  of  the  lobster,  fill  them  with  the  preparation,  sprinkle  bread 
crumbs  on  the  top,  pour  a  little  warmed  butter  over  each,  and  brown  in  the  oven. 
Place  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  lay  the  shells  on  it,  and  serve  at  once. 

Boiled   Lobster. 

Place  some  water  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  boiling  fast  put  the  lobster  in,  head 
first,  so  that  it  may  be  killed  at  once.  Place  the  lid  on  and  let  the  lobster  boil  for 
half  an  hour.  Take  it  out  and  leave  it  until  well  drained,  then  wipe  off  the  scum  and 
rub  it  over  with  a  little  piece  of  butter  tied  in  a  cloth. 

Lobster   Bordelaise. 

Cut  some  live  lobsters  into  eight  pieces,  crack  the  claws  without  spoiling  the 
shape,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  cover  with  white  wine,  a  little  garlic,  two  bay 
leaves,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  place  the 
lid  on  the  saucepan  and  let  the  mixture  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  often  to 


SHELL-FISH.  101 

prevent  burning.  When  they  are  cooked  take  each  piece  of  lobster  out,  dry  in  a 
cloth,  and  replace  them  in  a  clean  saucepan.  Fry  a  few  slices  of  onions  and  shallots 
in  butter,  and  when  they  are  browned  stir  in  a  little  flour,  cook  it,  then  pour  in  some 
of  the  liquor  in  which  the  pieces  of  lobster  were  cooked.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  ten 
minutes,  then  mix  in  a  teacupful  of  tomato  sauce,  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  the  pieces  of 
lobster,  and  warm  them  again.  Arrange  the  lobster  on  a  hot  dish  in  such  a  way  that 
they  will  not  have  the  appearance  of  being  cut,  put  the  claws  around,  pour  over  the 
sauce  and  serve. 

Broiled  Lobster. 

Take  a  live  lobster,  and  after  it  has  been  boiled  split  it  lengthwise,  and  pick  out 
all  the  uneatable  parts  ;  open  it  flat,  place  two  small  pieces  of  butter  on  it,  and  dust 
over  with  pepper  ;  place  the  halves  of  the  lobster,  just  as  they  were  in  their  shells, 
on  a  gridiron,  and  heat  slowly  over  a  fire.  When  done  put  them  with  their  shells  on 
a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley  and  serve. 


Broiled  Lobster  Ravigote. 


Cut  three  small  raw  lobsters  each  into  two  equal  parts,  taking  out  the  gravel 
from  the  head,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  rub  with  a  little  oil  and  broil  the  pieces 
for  ten  minutes.  Remove  them  from  the  fire,  take  the  meat  from  the  heads  of  the 
lobsters,  put  them  in  a  salad  bowl  with  half  a  pint  of  ravigote  butter  and  mix  them 
well  together;  take  the  rest  of  the  meat  from  the  lobster,  dip  it  in  the  sauce  and 
return  it  to  the  shell;  then  replace  and  warm  it  again  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  oven 
and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  the  shells  with  parsley  and  serve  the  sauce  in 
a  boat. 

Buttered    Lobster. 

Pick  out  all  the  meat  of  a  lobster  and  mince  it  finely,  mix  it  with  the  coral  and 
green  inside,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  and 
one  saltspoonful  each  of  cayenne  and  made  mustard;  place  this  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
chopped  meat  over  the  fire  till  thoroughly  hot.  Cut  in  quarters  some  lettuce,  arrange 
them  on  a  dish,  pour  in'the  hot  lobster,  put  some  quarters  of  hard  boiled  eggs  on  the 
top  and  serve  at  once. 

Lobster  Cream. 

Pick  the  meat  from  a  boiled  lobster  and  chop  it  small;  place  it  in  a  saucepan, 
season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg;  moisten 
with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  sherry,  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  hot,  then  dredge  lightly  with  flour  and  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  tea- 
cupful  of  cream.  Stir  the  mixture  while  it  is  boiling  and  let  it  cook  for  ten  minutes. 
Wash  the  body  shell  of  the  lobster  and  dry  well,  then  pour  the  mixture  into.  it. 
Place  the  lobster  on  a  fancy  dish  and  serve  it  while  very  hot. 


102  SHELL-FISH. 


Lobster  Croquettes. 


Carefully  pick  the  meat  from  a  lobster,  mince  finely,  and  mix  it  with  one  heaped 
teaspoonful  of  finely  grated  breadcrumbs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  the 
strained  juice  of  one  lemon,  one  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce,  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg, pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  is  very  hot.  Then  take  it  off, 
mix  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  leave  until  cold.  Shape  the  lobster  prepara- 
tion into  little  balls,  brush  over  with  beaten  eggs,  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat  and 
fry.  When  they  are  cooked,  drain  and  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried 
parsley  and  serve. 

Curried   Lobster. 

Take  the  meat  from  some  small  lobsters  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  tea- 
cupful  each  of  gravy  and  cream,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace.  Mix  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
curry  powder  with  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  one  ounce  of  butter,  put  in  with  the 
lobster  and  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  an  hour.  After  it  is  done  add  some 
lemon  juice  and  a  little  salt.  Turn  it  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  serve. 

Lobster   Cutlets. 

Take  out  the  meat  from  a  large  hen  lobster  or  two  small  ones,  place  it  in  a 
mortar  with  some  of  its  coral,  and  pound,  mixing  with  it  a  little  powdered  mace, 
grated  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne  ;  beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  the  white 
of  one  together  with  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce ;  then  mix  them  with  the  above 
ingredients.  Roll  out,  sprinkle  a  little  flour  over,  and  form  it  into  the  cutlets ;  dip  a 
paste  brush  in  beaten  eggs,  brush  the  cutlets  over,  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry 
in  boiling  butter.  Put  one  pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  the  coral  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce,  and  make  it  hot.  When  the  cutlets  .are  browned,  drain, 
arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  center  and  serve. 

Deviled    Lobster. 

Put  three  minced  shallots  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  the  brown 
meat  of  the  crab;  fry  until  the  shallots  are  lightly  browned,  then  pour  in  half  a  pint 
of  milk,  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  chutney,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small 
quantity  of  cayenne.  Stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  it- is  thick,  then  put  in  the 
lobster  chopped.  Have  a  metal  table  shell,  fill  it  with  the  lobster  mixture,  strew  a 
layer  of  grated  breadcrumbs  over  the  top,  baste  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  warmed 
butter  and  brown  in  the  oven.  When  done  place  the  shell  in  the  middle  of  the  dish 
and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Lobster    Fricassee. 

Partially  boil  some  lobsters.  Pick  the  meat  out  of  the  claws  and  tails  and  cut 
Miem  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  bechame. 


SHELL-FISH.  103 

sauce  and  let  the  contents  stew  gently  for  several  minutes.     Strain  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon  into  the  fricassee,  turn  it  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  serve  at  once. 

Fried   Lobster. 

Take  the  meat  out  of  the  tails  and  claws  of  a  lobster  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Dip  a  paste-brush  in  beaten  egg,  and  brush  the  meat  with  it,  then  roll  it  in 
breadcrumbs,  and  after  they  have  dried  on  it  repeat  the  operation.  Place  it  in  a  fry- 
ing basket,  plunge  it  in  boiling  fat  and  fry  until  it  is  brown.  Drain  and  place  the 
lobster  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  with  a  sauceboat  of  tartar  sauce. 

Lobster   Fritters. 

Chop  the  meat  of  a  lobster  and  a  few  skinned  prawns,  put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  lump  of  butter  and  place  on  the  fire  until  they  are  hot.  Roll  out  some  good 
paste,  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  cutter,  place  them  in  a  flat  stewpan  with  boiling  lard, 
and  fry  until  they  are  nicely  browned ;  drain,  pile  some  of  the  lobster  mixture  on 
each,  arrange  them- on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley  and  serve. 

Lobsters  in   Casserole. 

Cut  the  tails  of  some  boiled  lobster  into  scallops,  and  place  them  in  a  circle 
in  a  silver  casserole.  Fry  some  chopped  shallots  in  a  little  butter  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  pour  in  a  little  sherry  wine  and  finish  cooking.  When  they  are  done  pour  over 
the  shallots  some  Spanish  sauce  and  tomato  puree,  mixed  in  equal  quantity,  stir  and 
boil  for  five  minutes,  and  dust  in  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Cut  the  meats  of  the 
lobster  claws  in  small  dices,  put  in  the  center  of  the  casserole,  pour  over  the  sauce, 
stand  the  casserole  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes  to  warm  the  lobster  and  serve. 

Lobster  in  Shells. 

Cut  an  equal  quantity  of  lobster  meat  and  mushrooms  into  dice.  Boil  some 
veloute  sauce,  together  with  some  essence  of  mushrooms  till  properly  reduced.  Then 
thicken  it  with  fresh  butter  and  lobster  butter  in  equal  proportions,  and  mix  in  the 
lobster  and  mushrooms.  Fill  some  table  shells  with  the  preparation,  sprinkle  bread- 
crumbs over  the  top,  pour  over  a  little  warmed  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until 
browned.  Place  the  shells  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve. 


Lobster,  Newburg. 


Pick  all  the  meat  from  the  shells  of  two  good  sized  freshly  boiled  lobsters,  and 
cut  it  into  one-inch  pieces,  which  place  in  a  saucepan  over  a  hot  range  together  with 
one  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  red 
pepper,  two  medium-sized  truffles,  cut  into  dice-shaped  pieces,  after  cooking  for  five 


io4  SHELL-FISH. 

minutes  add  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine;  reduce  one-half,  say  about  three  to  four 
minutes,  then  have  in  readiness  three  egg  yolks  in  a  bowl  with  "half  a  pint  ot  sweet 
cream,  and  beat  well  together,  adding  this  to  the  lobster,  gently  stir  for  two  minutes 
longer  until  it  becomes  thick,  pour  into  a  hot  tureen  and  serve. 

Lobster  on  Skewers. 

Take  a  freshly  boiled  lobster,  cut  it  into  squares,  lay  them  in  a  bowl  to  season, 
with  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  half  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  Wor- 
cestershire sauce;  mix  these  ingredients  well  together.  Have  six  skewers  and  arrange 
on  them  first  a  piece  of  lobster,  then  a  mushroom,  another  piece  of  lobster,  then 
another  piece  of  mushroom,  and  so  on.  Lay  them  on  the  broiler  and  broil  for  eight 
minutes.  Take  them  off,  dress  on  a  hot  dish  on  six  slices  of  broiled  bacon,  pour 
over  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  serve  while  they  are  very  hot. 

Lobster  Patties. 

Take  the  flesh  from  the  shell  of  a  boiled  lobster,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  lobster  sauce.  Prepare  some  puff  paste,  give  it 
six  turns,  then  roll  it  out  flat  on  a  floured  table.  With  a  fluted  cutter  cut  out  some 
rounds,  place  them  on  a  baking  dish,  lay  them  on  ice  for  ten  minutes,  then  brush 
them  over  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg.  With  a  plain  tin  cutter  cut 
through  a  third  of  the  thickness  of  the  paste,  dipping  the  cutter  in  warm  water  every 
time;  this  will  form  the  cover  when  baked.  Place  the  patties  in  a  quick  oven  and 
bake  them.  When  they  are  cooked  lift  off  the  inner  circle  of  the  patties,  scoop  out 
a  little  of  the  soft  paste  inside,  and  smooth  over  the  surface.  Have  the  lobster 
warmed,  turn  it  into  the  patties,  and  put  on  the  covers.  Arrange  them  on  a  fancy 
dish,  and  serve  while  they  are  very  hot. 

Lobster  Rissoles. 

Make  a  batter  of  flour,  eggs  and  milk,  allow  to  each  egg  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk.  Pound  the  coral  of  a  boiled  lobster  with  the 
yolks  of  two  hard  boiled  eggs  until  smooth ;  chop  the  meat  of  the  lobster  up  fine, 
season  with  pepper,  a  little  pounded  mace  and  salt,  and  mix  with  it  the  pounded  coral 
and  egg.  When  the  batter  is  well  beaten  and  smooth,  mix  the  lobster  into  it  until 
stiff  enough  to  make  into  rolls.  Fry  them  in  salad-oil  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold 
on  a  folded  napkin.  If  served  cold,  garnish  with  fresh  parsley,  if  hot,  with  fried 
parsley. 

Scalloped  Lobster. 

Select  a  nice  fresh  hen  lobster  and  pick  out  all  the  flesh ;  place  the  spawn  in  a 
mortar  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  pound  until  smooth,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine 
hair  sieve.  Mince  the  flesh  of  the  lobster,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  mod- 


SHELL-FISH.  105 

erate  quantity  of  spice  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Put  the  mince  into  a  stewpan 
with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon, 
a  small  lump  of  butter  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream.  Stir  the 
mixture  with  a  wooden  spoon  over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  then  stir  in  the  pounded 
spawn.  Fill  some  scallop  shells  with  the  mixture,  levelling  it  smoothly  over  the  top, 
sprinkle  over  plenty  of  grated  breadcrumbs  and  put  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  on 
them.  Place  the  scalloped  lobster  in  the  oven  and  bake  until  nicely  browned.  Serve 
on  a  folded  napkin. 

Stewed  Lobsters. 

Remove  the  claws  from  four  or  five  freshly  boiled  lobsters  and  split  them  in  two 
lengthwise ;  pick  the  meat  from  the  tails  to  trim  it  and  arrange  the  pieces  in  a  circle 
on  a  hot  dish,  placing  the  claws  in  the  center.  Put  one-fourth  pint  of  melted  meat 
glaze  in  a  small  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry  wine ;  boil,  and  then 
move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire.  Mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bread- 
crumbs with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  a  little  cayenne. 
Add  this  gradually  to  the  meat  glaze  mixture  so  as  to  thicken  it ;  mix  with  this  the 
creamy  part  that  is  taken  from  the  body  of  the  lobster,  pounded,  passed  through  a 
sieve  and  worked  up  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  lob- 
ster and  serve  at  once. 

Stewed   Lobster  Bordelaise. 

Add  to  one  wineglassful  of  red  wine  in  a  stewpan  one  chopped  shallot  and  half 
of  a  small  carrot,  cut  into  exceedingly  small  pieces.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  put  in  the 
meat  from  two  boiled  lobsters,  cut  into  pieces,  which  should  weigh  about  one  and 
one-half  pounds,  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-third  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  very  little  nut- 
meg, and  finally  one-half  pint  of  veloute  sauce.  Stew  well  together  for  five  minutes 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Lobster  Vol-au-Vent. 

Rub  together  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour.  Pour  on  this  by  degrees  one  pint  of  boiling  white  stock,  boil  up,  and  add 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  little  salt,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
beaten  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  the  meat  of  two  small  lobsters  cut  into  dice.  Stir 
over  the  fire  for  one  minute,  fill  a  vol-au-vent  case,  place  the  cover  on  and  serve. 

Fried  Mussels. 

Pick  some  mussels  out  of  their"  shells :  remove  their  beards,  dip  them  in  milk, 
cover  with  breadcrumbs  well  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  in  a  fryingpan 
until  they  are  of  a  light  brown  color,  place  them  on  a  dish  in  a  warm  place,  pour  a 
little  of  their  liquor  in  a  pan,  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  if  required,  and  sprinkle  in 
a  few  breadcrumbs,  and  then  add  a  little  butter.  When  it  is  quite  hot  pour  it  over 


io6  SHELL-FISH. 

the  mussels  and  serve  at  once.     The  mussels  may  be  previously  pickled,  but  it  is  not 
necessary. 

Mussels  in   Shells. 

Procure  some  small  mussels,  they  being  the  most  delicate,  scrape  the  shells  and 
wash  them  in  several  waters,  to  remove  all  the  grit.  Put  the  mussels  in  a  stewpan 
with  one  sliced  onion,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  and  one  pint  of  French  white  wine  ; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  stand  the  pan  over  the  fire  till  the  shells  open,  when  the 
mussels  will  be  done.  Take  them  cut  of  their  shells,  clean  thoroughly,  and  cut  them 
into  halves  ;  strain  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  mussels  into  another  saucepan,  mix  with 
it  an  equal  quantity  of  veloute  sauce,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  about  half  of  its 
original  quantity.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  a  lump  of  butter  or  a  liaison  of  two  yolks 
of  eggs,  stirring  by  the  side  of  the  fire  and  not  allowing  it  to  boil  after  the  eggs  are 
added ;  put  the  mussels  in  the  sauce  with  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Fill 
some  silver  shells  with  the  above  mixture,  cover  with  finely  grated  breadcrumbs,  put 
a  small  bit  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each,  and  brown  in  the  oven  ;  when  cooked,  arrange 
the  shells  on  an  ornamental  dish  paper  or  a  folded  napkin  that  has  been  placed  on  a 
hot  dish,  garnish  with  neat  sprigs  of  fried  parsley,  arranging  it  here  and  there  between 
the  shells,  and  serve. 

Mussels,  Matelote. 

Wash  and  clean  some  mussels,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  over  a  clear  fire,  and 
toss  or  hustle  them  until  the  shells  open.  Turn  the  mussels  into  a  colander  placed 
over  a  pan,  so  as  to  save  all  their  liquor,  and  remove  the  half  shells,  beards,  etc.  ; 
put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  shallots  and  a  clove  of  garlic  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  little  butter,  and  fry  without  letting  them  take  color  ;  put  in  the  mussels,  pour  over 
one  wineglassful  of  wine  and  the  mussel  liquor,  place  the  pan  over  the  fire,  boil  for  a 
few  minutes,  thicken  with  a  piece  of  butter  kneaded  with  finely  minced  breadcrumbs, 
parsley  and  a  little  cayenne,  and  toss  the  pan  for  a  little  while  longer  until  all  the 
butter  is  melted.  Put  them  in  a  metal  dish,  pour  over  the  liquor,  stand  in  another 
dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Mussels,  Poulette  Style. 


Take  some  mussels  that  have  been  hustled  or  plainly  cooked,  remove  the  half 
shell  that  does  not  contain  the  fish,  take  off  the  beard  and  weed,  remove  any  young 
crabs  there  may  be,  and  put  them  on  a  dish  either  piled  up  or  packed  closely  together. 
In  the  meantime  prepare  a  little  melted  butter,  made  with  the  mussel  liquor  instead 
of  water  and  a  good  quantity  of  butter,  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  pepper  and  sufficient 
vinegar  to  give  it  a  sharp  taste ;  make  this  mixture  hot,  pour  it  over  the  mussels  and 
serve  at  once.  Nutmeg,  mace,  or  chopped  parsley  and  chives  may  be  added  to  the 
sauce  if  desired  to  heighten  the  flavor. 


SHELL-FISH.  107 

Scalloped   Mussels. 

Put  some  mussels  into  a  saucepan  and  toss  them  over  a  quick  fire  for  a  few 
minutes  until  the  meat  will  come  away  easily  from  the  shells.  Take  out  the  beards, 
weeds,  etc.,  remove  the  fish  from  their  shells,  squeeze  all  the  liquor  out  of  them, 
and  add  to  it  that  which  came  from  them  while  being  cooked  :  strain  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, put  in  the  mussels  and  warm  them  up,  adding  a  little  flour,  butter,  grated  nut- 
meg and  pepper ;  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  them  boil  and  not  to  use  any  salt,  as 
they  generally  contain  sufficient.  Clean  some  scallop  shells,  cover  them  with  bread- 
crumbs, put  a  layer  of  the  mussels  over  it,  then  another  layer  of  breadcrumbs  and 
another  of  mussels  ;  moisten  them  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  the  liquor,  put  a 
layer  of  crumbs  on  top,  place  on  it  a  few  pieces  of  butter,  scatter  over  a  little  dried 
parsley,  and  put  them  in  an  oven  to  cook  until  they  are  a  bright  brown.  They  may 
be  browned  in  a  salamander  instead  of  the  oven,  if  desired,  and  must  be  served  hot. 

Stewed   Mussels,  Mariniere. 

Steam  three  dozen  mussels  in  a  saucepan  for  about  ten  minutes,  without  any 
water.  Take  them  out,  remove  half  of  their  shells,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  small  quantity  of  chives  and  finely-chopped  chervil,  a 
very  little  pepper  and  a  teacupful  of  finely-sifted  breadcrumbs ;  pour  over  one-half 
breakfast  cupful  of  water  and  boil  for  two  minutes  longer.  Turn  the  whole  into  a 
dish,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  one-half  of  a  lemon,  and  serve.  The  mussels  should 
be  arranged  in  the  dish  with  the  half  shells  downwards.  Garnish  with  parsley  and 
quarters  of  lemons. 

Mussels,  Villeroy. 

Wash  and  thoroughly  cleanse  some  mussels,  changing  the  water  five  or  six  times, 
if  necessary,  and  remove  the  sinewy  strings  that  are  to  be  found  inside,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan,  pour  over  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  toss  them  over  a  fire  until 
the  shells  open,  then  turn  them  into  a  colander  over  a  pan  and  let  them  drain. 
Pull  them  out  of  their  shells,  and  when  they  are  cool  dip  them  into  a  little  villeroy 
sauce  ;  arrange  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  when  the  sauce  has  cooled  sprinkle  them 
over  with  breadcrumbs,  repeating  it  to  have  them  thoroughly  covered.  Plunge 
them  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat,  fry  to  a  light  brown  color,  then  take  them  out, 
drain,  put  them  on  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  fried  parsley. 

Oysters. 

Oysters  are  in  season  eight  months  in  the  year,  .he  four  "  close  "  months  being 
May,  June,  July,  and  August;  the  other  months  having  the  letter  "  r  "  in  their  spell- 
ing, accounts  for  the  saying  that  oysters  are  in  season  when  there  is  an  "  r  "  in  the 
month.  The  oyster  (ostrea  edulis)  is  found  on  almost  every  coast,  being  especially 


io8  SHELL-FISH. 

cultivated  in  certain  localities,  and  yielding  enormous  crops,  as  it  is  estimated  that 
one  oyster  alone  produces  in  one  year  from  three  to  four  thousand  young.  The 
system  of  cultivation  has  been  brought  to  great  perfection,  and  the  superior  kinds  of 
oysters  are  carefully  preserved  from  contamination  with  inferior  sorts.  Of  the 
numerous  kinds  of  oysters  sold  in  our  markets,  it  is  only  necessary  to  state  that  those 
possessing  the  smallest,  smoothest  and  cleanest  looking  shells,  from  the  high  class 
native,  down  to  the  lowest  types,  are  the  best  flavored.  For  serving  plain,  no  oyster 
excels  the  blue  points,  but  for  cooking  a  coarser  and  cheaper  kind  may  be  used  with 
almost  as  good  results.  Oysters  must  be  kept  alive,  and  as  they  are  liable  to  fret  and 
waste  in  substance  while  in  captivity,  they  require  frequent  change  of  water,  and 
occasional  feeding  or  fattening  as  it  is  called.  The  following  is  the  system  usually 
adopted:  Take  some  fresh  oysters,  put  them  in  a  tub  of  water,  wash  or  scrub  them 
with  a  birch  or  heather  broom  until  they  are  quite  clean,  then  lay  them  in  an  earthen- 
ware pan  with  the  flat  shell  upwards;  sprinkle  them  with  flour  or  oatmeal,  and  cover 
with  salted  water  (quite  as  salt  as  sea- water),  bay  salt  being  the  best  for  this  purpose. 
Change  the  salt  water  every  day  and  sprinkle  the  oysters  with  oatmeal  or  flour,  and 
they  will  fatten.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  preserve  oysters  for  culinary  use, 
especially  in  localities  where  they  are  scarce  or  the  supplies  insufficient.  When  this 
is  the  case,  the  following  will  be  found  an  excellent  method  of  preparing  them  so  that 
they  will  keep  good,  although  not  fresh,  and  be  always  ready  for  use. 

Clean  the  oysters  thoroughly,  put  them  in  a  large  saucepan  with  some  sea-water, 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  some  grated  nutmeg.  When  the  water  is  on  the  point 
of  boiling  move  the  saucepan  off  the  fire,  and  leave  the  oysters  in  the  liquor  till  the 
following  day.  Put  them  into  stone  or  earthenware  jars,  pour  over  some  clarified 
butter,  and  when  cold,  cover  and  tie  the  jars  down;  keep  them  in  a  cool  place. 
Oysters  should  be  kept  in  a  very  cold  place,  and  should  be  thoroughly  washed  before 
they  are  opened;  they  should,  according  to  the  French  custom,  be  opened  on  the 
deep  shell  so  as  to  preserve  their  liquor;  it  is  then  advisable,  if  possible,  to  lay  them 
on  a  bed  of  finely  chopped  ice  for  an  hour  or  so  before  serving;  this  improves  the 
flavor  greatly,  but  they  must  not  be  left  on  the  ice  much  longer,  for  after  that  time 
they  will  begin  to  lose  flavor,  instead  of  gaining  it. 

Oysters,  American    Style. 

Place  in  a  sauce  bowl  one  heaped  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three-fourths  teaspoonful 
of  very  finely  ground  white  pepper,  one  medium  sized  fine,  sound,  well  peeled  shallot, 
one  heaped  teaspoonful  of  chives,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  parsley,  all  very  finely 
chopped.  Mix  lightly  together,  and  then  pour  in  one  teaspoonful  of  olive  oil,  six 
drops  of  Tobasco  sauce,  one  saltspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  lastly  one  gill 
(or  five  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls)  of  good  vinegar.  Mix  it  thoroughly  with  a 
spoon,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  A  teaspoonful  should  be  poured  over  each  oyster  just 
before  eating. 


SHELL-FISH  109 

Baked   Oysters. 

Put  in  a  small  lined  stewpan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  one  teacupful  of 
cream,  stirring  them  well  over  a  fire  until  thoroughly  mingled.  Add  one  wineglassful 
of  wine,  one  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  sauce  and  a  small  quantity  each  of  cayenne 
pepper  and  grated  lemon  peel,  and  continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until  hot.  Pour 
half  of  this  mixture  into  a  dish  and  lay  the  oysters  on  it.  Strew  Parmesan  cheese 
and  breadcrumbs  over,  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  pouring  on  the  remainder  of  the 
cream  and  butter,  with  another  thin  layer  of  crumbs  and  cheese  on  top.  Bake  until 
nicely  browned  in  a  brisk  oven  and  serve  while  hot. 

Baked   Oysters   in   their  Shells. 

Open  some  oysters,  remove  the  beards  and  dip  them  first  in  beaten  egg  and  then 
in  finely  grated  breadcrumbs  that  have  been  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  grated 
nutmeg.  Place  the  oysters  in  their  lower  shells,  put  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each, 
and  bake  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven.  When  ready,  place  the  shells  with  the 
oysters  on  a  dish,  squeeze  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  over  each,  and  serve. 

Baked   Oysters   on   Toast. 

Beard  two  dozen  fine  oysters,  put  their  beards  and  liquor  into  a  stewpan,  and  let 
them  simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Butter  some  toasts  thickly  on  one  side,  lay  them 
buttered  side  downwards  on  a  dish  that  will  stand  the  heat  of  the  fire  and  put  the  oys- 
ters on  top.  Strain  the  oyster  liquor  and  mix  with  it  one  ounce  of  butter  in  small 
bits,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper  and  pour  it  over 
the  oysters.  Place  the  dish  in  a  brisk  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  then  take  it  out  and 
serve  the  oysters  very  hot  with  a  plate  of  cut  lemon. 


Oyster   Bouchees. 


Blanch  two  dozen  oysters  and  turn  ten  mushrooms,  cut  both  into  small  pieces, 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  white  sauce  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  hot.  Pre- 
pare some  puff  paste,  giving  it  six  turns,  roll  it  out  to  about  one-fourth  inch  in  thick- 
ness, and  with  a  fluted  tin  cutter,  about  two  inches  in  diameter,  cut  eighteen  rounds 
out  of  the  paste.  Arrange  the  pieces  of  paste  on  a  baking  sheet,  let  them  rest  on  ice 
for  ten  minutes,  then  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  with  a  plain  tin  cutter  one  and 
one-fourth  inches  in  diameter  cut  through  the  center  of  each  bouchee  to  about  one- 
third  of  the  thickness  of  the  paste.  Bake  the  bouchees  in  a  quick  oven,  and  when 
cooked  lift  off  the  inner  circle  of  the  paste  and  hollow  them  out  inside.  Fill  the 
bouchees  with  the  salpicon  of  oysters  and  mushrooms  and  replace  the  covers.  Place 
a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  bouchees  on 
it,  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 


no  SHELL-FISH. 

Broiled   Oysters. 

Take  some  fine  large-sized  oysters,  lay  them  on  a  soft  cloth  to  dry,  pepper  over, 
and  then  place  them  on  a  well  buttered  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  and  leave  till  thor- 
oughly hot.  Lay  them  then  on  slices  of  well  buttered  toast  cut  rather  thin  and  serve 
while  hot. 

Broiled   Oysters,  Breaded. 

Take  freshly  opened  oysters  and  an  equal  quantity  of  bread  and  cracker  crumbs, 
flatten  them  on  a  well  greased  broiler  and  broil  for  two  minutes  on  each  side.  Salt 
slightly  and  arrange  on  the  toast,  then  lightly  glaze  them  over  with  maitre  d'hotel 
sauce  and  serve. 

Broiled   Oysters,  in   the   Shell. 

Put  a  couple  of  dozen  large  oysters  on  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  with  the 
flat  shell  uppermost;  when  done  they  will  open.  Keep  the  liquor  in  the  shells  and 
serve  hot. 


Oyster   Cocktail. 


Open  half  a  dozen  small  oysters  and  drop  them  with  the  juice  into  a  wine  glass; 
add  a  little  lemon  juice,  three  drops  of  Tobasco  sauce,  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce  and  one  dessertspoonful  of  tomato  catsup,  stir  well  and  serve.  Horse- 
radish may  be  served  on  the  side. 


Oyster   Cromeskies. 


Scald  the  required  number  of  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  and  put  them  between 
slices  of  bacon  cut  very  thin.  Two  oysters  are  quite  sufficient  for  one  slice  of  bacon. 
Roll  the  bacon  over  and  fasten  the  oysters  in  with  a  small  skewer.  Fry  them  to  a 
nice  brown,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  serve  hot. 

Oyster   Croquettes. 

Blanch  six  dozen  oysters,  trim  and  chop  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  put  these 
into  a  saucepan  with  one-third  the  bulk  of  mushrooms  cooked  and  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Set  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  in  a  saucepan  over  a  clear  fire,  reduce  it, 
stirring  frequently,  add  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  the  oyster  liquor  and  a  little  cream. 
When  it  is  well  reduced  and  begins  to  froth,  add  a  liaison  made  of  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  to  thicken  it,  and  lastly  add  a  small  quantity  of  butter.  Stir  in  the  oyster  mix- 
ture, turn  it  out  into  a  basin,  and  let  it  get  quite  cold,  placing  the  basin  if  necessary 
on  ice.  Take  out  small  quantities,  about  the  size  of  an  egg,  roll  them  on  a  board 
sprinkled  with  breadcrumbs,  make  them  round  with  spoons,  and  dip  them  first  into 
well  beaten  egg  and  then  into  breadcrumbs.  Have  ready  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat, 


SHELL-FISH.  in 

plunge  them  in  a  few.  at  a  time,  and  when  they  are  done  and  of  a  good  color  take  them 
out,  drain,  arrange  them  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of 
fried  parsley. 

Oyster  Croustade. 

Beard  and  cut  some  oysters  into  halves  and  put  in  a  stewpan  with  their  strained 
liquor,  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  and  a  moderate  quantity  of  gravy;  season  to 
taste  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  each  of  grated  lemon  peel  and  pounded 
mace.  Stew  them  gently,  and  when  done  place  in  them  about  one  ounce  of  butter  in 
small  lumps.  Cut  off  the  tops  of  some  small  French  rolls,  scooping  out  the  crumb, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling  butter,  and  fry  until  crisp  and  brown.  Rub 
the  crumbs  of  the  rolls  up  finely  and  fry  them  also.  Drain  the  rolls  and  fill  them 
with  the  oyster  mixture,  placing  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  crumbs  around  it,  and  serve. 


Curried   Oysters. 


Peel  and  cut  into  thin  slices  a  moderate  sized  Spanish  onion;  put  a  lump  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  boils  put  in  the  onion 
and  fry  it  until  nicely  browned.  Next  stir  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder, 
add  more  butter  if  necessary,  and  mix  well  over  the  fire.  Pour  in  gradually  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  broth,  put  the  lid  on  the  pan  and  let  the  whole  boil  up.  Grate 
a  cocoanut  and  peel  and  chop  a  very  sour  apple,  or,  instead  of  the  apple,  a  few 
tamarinds  would  be  best  if  they  could  be  obtained;  put  them  into  the  stewpan  with 
the  other  ingredients,  and  boil  the  whole  slowly  until  the  cocoanut  is  tender.  Mix 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  smooth  with  a  little  water,  and  stir  it  into  the  above 
mixture;  season  to  taste  with  salt,  stir  and  boil  for  five  minutes.  Put  two  or  three 
tomatoes,  freed  from  their  seeds,  into  a  stewpan  with  a  hundred  oysters  and  their 
liquor,  also  the  milk  of  the  cocoanut.  Stir  them  occasionally,  and  stew  slowly  for  a 
few  minutes.  Add  this  to  the  former  mixture.  Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
turn  the  curry  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  or  sippets  of 
toast,  and  serve  with  a  separate  dish  of  rice. 

Oyster   Fricassee. 

Open  and  beard  some  oysters,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  their  own  liquor, 
one  ounce  of  butter  and  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  season  them  with  a  small 
quantity  each  of  cayenne  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  and  let  them  simmer  gently  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Do  not  cook  them  too  much  or  they  will 
shrivel  up.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  together  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry, 
strain  and  pour  in  with  the  oysters.  Toss  the  whole  over  the  fire  for  a  minute,  then 
turn  them  on  to  a  dish  and  serve. 


u2  SHELL-FISH. 

Fried   Oysters. 

Select  large  oysters  and  drain  them;  mix  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  smoothly 
with  one-half  teacupful  of  milk,  grate  some  stale  breadcrumbs  on  a  sheet  of  paper 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  roll  the  oysters  first  in  the  paste  and  then  in  the 
breadcrumbs,  covering  well  but  touching  them  as  little  as  possible.  Lay  them  on  a 
plate  and  leave  them  for  several  minutes.  Beat  one  or  two  eggs  thoroughly,  roll  the 
oysters  in  it  one  at  a  time,  then  roll  them  again  in  the  seasoned  breadcrumbs.  Put 
a  large  lump  of  lard  in  a  frying  pan  over  the  fire  and  when  blue  smoke  arises  put  in 
the  oysters  and  fry  them  until  nicely  browned.  Take  each  oyster  as  it  is  cooked  out 
of  the  fat  and  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper  in  front  of  the  fire  to  drain.  Spread  a  folded 
napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  over  a  hot  dish,  pile  the  oysters  upon  it,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Fried    Oysters   and    Bacon. 

Open  and  remove  the  beards  from  one  dozen  oysters,  cut  as  many  thin  slices  of 
bacon  as  there  are  oysters,  trim  neatly  and  lay  an  oyster  on  each,  rolling  them  up  and 
fasten  with  a  skewer.  Fry  each  roll  carefully  and  nicely.  Cut  as  many  rounds  of 
bread  about  a  third  of  an  inch  thick  and  two  inches  in  diameter  as  there  are  rolls  of 
bacon,  toast  them  evenly  on  both  sides  and  butter  them.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  or 
fancy  edged  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  pieces  of  toast  upon  it  with  a  roll  on 
each,  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Fried    Deviled    Oysters. 

Take  one  pint  of  oysters  or  sufficient  to  make  a  good  dish,  wipe  them  dry  and 
lay  them  on  a  flat  dish  ;  cover  with  butter  well-warmed  and  mixed  with  cayenne 
pepper  and  lemon  juice,  turn  them  over  and  over  in  this  mixture  for  ten  minutes,  then 
roll  them  in  a  paper  of  rolled  crackers  or  sifted  breadcrumbs ;  dip  them  into  beaten 
egg  and  again  roll  them  in  the  crumbs,  fry  them  in  boiling  lard  and  butter  mixed  and 
serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Fried   Oyster    Patties. 

Make  some  good  puff  paste,  roll  it  out  rather  thin  and  cut  it  into  round  pieces. 
Chop  some  oysters,  mix  them  with  some  chopped  hard  boiled  egg,  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel ;  add  a  seasoning  of  pepper,  salt  and  a  little 
pounded  mace,  moisten  the  mixture  with  cream  and  a  little  oyster  liquor,  then  put  a 
good  spoonful  on  each  piece  of  paste,  fold  it  over,  moisten  the  edges  with  a  little 
cream  and  press  them  together.  Brush  the  patties  over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and 
fry  them  for  fifteen  minutes. 


SHELL-FISH. 

Fried   Truffled   Oysters. 

Chop  six  ounces  of  the  cooked  breast  of  a  fowl  and  three  ounces  of  raw  fat  salt 
pork,  put  this  into  a  mortar  with  a  little  pepper  and  pound  it.  Chop  a  few  truffles 
the  size  of  peas  and  mix  in.  Put  four  dozen  oysters  on  a  cloth  and  with  a  sharp  knife 
inserted  at  the  edge  of  one  of  them  make  an  opening  up  and  down  inside,  but  not  to 
make  the  hole  too  large  and  fill  them  with  the  mixture.  Put  them  when  all  done  into 
a  basin  of  flour,  coat  them  well  over,  dip  them  into  well-beaten  egg,  plunge  them  into 
a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  and  fry  to  a  light  golden  color.  Remove,  drain  on  a  cloth 
in  a  slow  oven,  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  arrange  them  on  pieces  of  toast  on  a  dish  and 
serve. 

Oyster   Fritters. 

Separate  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg,  beating  the  yolk  well  and  mixing  with  it 
two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  ground  rice  and  salad  oil,  three-fourths  of  a  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water.  Mix  smoothly  and  allow  the  batter 
to  stand  for  half  an  hour.  Open  and  beard  the  oysters,  whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  stiff  snow,  and  mix  them  in  lightly  with  the  batter.  Then  place  a  large  lump 
of  clarified  fat  in  a  flat  stewpan  over  a  fire  until  it  boils.  Take  the  oysters,  one  at 
a  time,  in  a  tablespoon  and  fill  it  with  the  batter,  pouring  it  into  the  boiling  fat. 
Fry  until  nicely  browned,  then  drain  well,  spreading  on  a  folded  napkin  or  orna- 
mental dish-paper  over  a  hot  dish,  pile  the  fritters  in  the  center,  garnish  with  cut 
lemons,  and  serve  with  a  plate  of  thin  slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter. 

Oysters  in   Cases. 

Open  and  blanch  a  couple  of  dozen  medium-sized  oysters  in  a  saucepan  with  one 
wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  season  with  a  pinch  of 
pepper  and  a  little  nutmeg.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  and  add  one  pint  of  well  reduced 
veloute  sauce  ;  cooking  for  another  five  minutes,  and  adding  half  an  ounce  of  cray- 
fish butter  and  stirring  occasionally.  Fill  the  cases  with  four  oysters  each  and  the 
garnishing  equally  divided.  Sprinkle  over  a  little  fresh  breadcrumbs,  and  arrange 
them  on  a  toasting  pan.  Spread  a  little  butter  over  each  patty,  and  place  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  for  five  minutes.  Have  a  hot  dish  at  hand  with  a  folded  napkin  spread 
over  it ;  place  the  patties  on  it  and  serve. 


Oysters,  Indian   Style. 


Put  one-half  tablespoonful  each  of  curry  powder  and  flour  in  a  small  saucepan ; 
mix  in  gradually  a  teacupful  of  cream,  one  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  onion  and 
a  small  quantity  of  finely  chopped  apple,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
stew  the  whole  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  occasionally.  Put  a  teacupful  of 
well  washed  rice  in  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  until  tender.  The  rice  should  be 


u4  SHELL-FISH. 

quite  dry  when  cooked.  Put  a  dozen  oysters  in  the  sauce,  add  a  little  lemon  juice, 
and  leave  until  hot.  Make  a  wall  of  the  rice  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  the  oysters  in 
the  center.  Serve  while  very  hot. 

Oysters  in   the   Shell. 

Put  a  dozen  or  so  of  large  oysters  on  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire  with  the 
flat  shell  uppermost  ;  when  done  they  will  open.  Preserve  the  liquor  in  the  shells 
with  the  oysters  and  serve  them  hot. 

Oyster   Patties. 

Turn  a  couple  of  dozen  oysters  into  a  basin  with  their  liquor.  Put  one  ounce 
of  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  work  it  together  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  into  a 
smooth  paste ;  when  warm  add  a  little  mace,  cayenne,  and  salt,  and  pour  in  gradually 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Boil  for  a  few  minutes  and  pour  in  the  strained 
liquor  from  the  oysters,  add  the  oysters  last,  and  boil  for  a  couple  of  minutes 
longer.  Line  some  small  patty  pans  with  some  thin  puff  paste,  put  a  quantity  of 
rice  in  each  to  keep  them  in  shape,  cover  the  top  with  more  of  the  paste  and 
bake  in  a  brisk  oven.  Take  them  out,  remove  the  top,  empty  out  the  rice,  fill  them 
with  the  oysters  and  a  little  of  the  liquor,  cover  and  serve. 

Oyster   Pie. 

Line  a  pie  dish  with  puff  paste,  and  fill  it  with  slices  of  stale  bread ;  butter  the 
paste  that  covers  the  edge  of  the  dish,  lay  a  cover  of  puff  paste  over  the  pie,  press 
the  edges  very  lightly  together,  trim  them,  and  bake  quickly  in  a  hot  oven.  Mean- 
while drain  the  liquor  from  one  quart  of  oysters  and  chop  them  fine  with  a  sharp,  thin 
bladed  knife.  Blend  a  teaspoonful  of  corn  starch  in  a  very  little  cold  milk,  pour  over 
it  one-half  pint  of  boiling  milk  or  cream,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  stir  till  it 
thickens,  and  then  add  one  ounce  of  butter  ;  when  the  butter  has  been  well  mixed 
in,  season  the  chopped  oysters  with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  them  into  the  thickened 
milk,  let  simmer  (stirring  all  the  time),  for  five  minutes,  and  then  take  from  off  the  fire. 
When  the  bread  pie  is  baked  remove  from  the  oven,  and  while  still  hot  carefully  take 
off  the  upper  crust ;  remove  the  bread,  and  fill  the  dish  with  the  thickened  cream  or 
milk  and  chopped  oysters,  replace  the  top  crust,  put  the  pie  again  in  the  oven  till  it 
is  thoroughly  hot  and  then  serve. 

Oyster   Poulette. 

Place  thirty-six  freshly-opened  oysters  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  of  their  own 
liquor,  one  ounce  of  butter,  half  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper  and  parboil  for  three  min- 
utes, adding  half  a  pint  of  hollandaise  sauce;  stew  well  together  for  two  minutes 
longer,  but  without  letting  the  liquor  boil,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  stir  slightly  and  serve  very  hot. 


SHELL-FISH.  115 


Scalloped   Oysters. 


Strain  the  oyster  liquor,  rinse  the  oysters  in  it,  then  plump  and  beard  them. 
Measure  the  liquor  and  add  to  it  an  equal  quantity  of  rich  white  sauce;  if  this  does 
not  thicken  it  sufficiently  add  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  rubbed  into  a  small  piece  of 
butter,  stir  over  the  fire  until  pretty  hot,  stir  until  it  boils  and  boil  ten  minutes,  stir- 
ring occasionally.  Put  in  the  oysters  and  keep  them  nearly  simmering  for  three  min- 
utes, then  put  them  into  their  shells  with  a  little  of  the  sauce,  put  a  layer  of  sifted 
breadcrumbs  on  them,  pour  over  this  a  little  clarified  butter  and  brown  them  in  the 
oven. 


Spiced   Oysters. 


Take  a  hundred  fresh  oysters,  put  them  into  a  large  earthenware  pipkin  together 
with  their  own  liquor  strained,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  eighteen  cloves,  four  blades  of 
mace,  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  strong  vinegar,  and  stir  all  these  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  Put  them  in  a  moderately-heated  oven  or  over  a  slow  fire;  take  them  from 
the  fire  several  times  and  stir  them  thoroughly;  as  soon  as  they  come  to  a  boil  pour 
them  in  a  pan  and  let  them  stand  all  night  in  a  cool  place.  They  will  be  ready  for 
eating  next  day. 

Steamed   Oysters. 

Open  and  drain  the  required  quantity  of  oysters,  lay  them  in  a  steamer,  which 
place  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  cover  them  with  a  plate  and  cook  for  ten  min- 
utes. When  ready  place  the  oysters  in  a  very  hot  dish,  garnish  with  some  croutons 
of  brown  bread  fried  in  butter  and  drained  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  or  vinegar 
poured  over  them.  Dust  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 


Stewed   Oysters. 


Open  the  shells  of  one  dozen  oysters,  take  them  out  carefully  and  wash  them  in 
their  own  liquor  until  perfectly  free  from  grit  and  pieces  of  shell,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan, strain  the  liquor  twice,  pour  it  over,  place  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  for  a  few  minutes  until  done.  Remove  the  oysters  with  a  skimmer  and 
put  them  on  a  dish  in  a  slow  oven  to  keep  warm;  add  to  the  liquor  one  teacupful  of 
cream  and  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  when  the  liquor 
boils  add  two  ounces  of  butter  worked  up  with  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  continue 
to  stir  till  it  is  all  thoroughly  mixed.  Put  in  the  oysters  to  warm  up  without  boiling, 
remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  little  lemon  juice.  Have  ready  some  pieces 
of  bread  fried  in  butter,  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  put  the  oysters  on  them,  pour  over 
the  liquor  and  serve  very  hot. 


n6  SHELL-FISH. 

Stewed   Oysters,  Baltimore  Style. 

Open  neatly  three  dozen  medium  sized  fresh  oysters,  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
without  their  liquor,  and  add  one  ounce  of  good  butter;  cover  the  pan,  place  it  over 
the  fire  and  cook  for  two  minutes,  then  add  one  wineglassful  of  good  Madeira  wine  and 
a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  cook  together  for  two  minutes  longer  and  add  one  gill 
each  of  Spanish  sauce  and  half-glaze.  Stir  thoroughly  until  boiling,  and  just  before 
serving  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  add  one-half  ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely  chopped  parsley,  and  serve  immediately  in  a  hot  tureen. 

Stuffed   Oysters. 

Put  the  grated  yolks  of  four  hard  boiled  eggs  into  a  basin  and  mix  in  half  the 
quantity  of  minced  bacon  or  salt  fat  pork,  add  a  little  pepper  or  chopped  parsley  and 
make  them  all  into  a  paste  by  adding  the  uncooked  yolk  of  another  egg.  Split  open 
four  dozen  oysters,  stuff  them  with  this  mixture,  put  them  in  large  oyster  shells,  coat 
them  over  with  breadcrumbs,  put  a  little  warmed  butter  on  top,  place  them  in  an 
oven  and  bake  until  done.  Put  them  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  pieces  of  fried  bread 
and  serve. 

Oyster   Vol-au-Vent. 

Put  the  liquor  and  beards  of  three  dozen  oysters  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  little 
pepper  (cayenne)  and  the  finely  chopped  rind  and  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Put 
the  pan  on  the  fire,  boil  up  the  liquor  and  thicken  with  three  ounces  of  butter  rubbed 
into  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Continue  to  boil  till  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one 
teacupful,  strain  it  into  another  saucepan,  add  the  oysters,  place  the  pan  at  the  side 
of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  for  five  or  six  minutes,  then  stir  in  one  teacupful  of 
cream  and  keep  the  mixture  warm.  Prepare  a  paste  as  follows:  Rub  twelve  ounces 
of  butter  into  an  equal  quantity  of  flour  and  mix  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon  added  to  one 
egg  beaten  up  in  one  teacupful  of  cold  water.  Make  this  into  a  paste,  handling  it  as 
little  as  possible,  turn  it  out  on  a  well-floured  board  and  roll  it  out  to  one  and  one- 
fourth  inches  in  thickness.  Cut  it  with  a  vol-au-vent  tin  cutter  to  take  off  the  rough 
edges,  make  it  the  required  shape,  cut  round  the  top  one-half  inch  from  the  edge  and 
one-fourth  inch  deep  and  bake  the  vol-au-vent  in  a  hot  oven  for  forty-five  minutes. 
When  done  carefully  take  out  the  center,  remove  the  soft  underdone  paste  and  fill  it 
up  with  the  oyster  mixture.  Arrange  the  vol-au-vent  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish 
and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  fried  parsley. 

Oysters   with   Cream. 

Put  a  pint  of  cream  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  onion  and  a  little  mace 
tied  up  in  a  muslin  bag.  Boil  and  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  mixed  with  a  little 
milk  or  cream.  Put  one  quart  of  oysters  in  a  saucepan  with  their  liquor  and  boil 


SHELL-FISH. 


117 


them  for  a  few  minutes  until  tender,  skimming  frequently.  Remove  the  oysters, 
drain,  put  them  in  the  saucepan  with  the  cream,  remove  the  onion  and  mace,  pour  it 
into  a  dish  and  serve  hot. 

Oysters   with   Parmesan   Cheese. 

Drain  the  oysters  as  free  as  possible  from  liquor ;  spread  a  dish  thickly  with 
butter,  lay  the  oysters  on  it,  strew  finely-minced  parsley  over  them,  season  with 
pepper,  pour  one-half  glass  of  champagne  over  and  cover  thickly  with  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese.  Put  the  dish  into  the  oven,  and  when  nicely  browned  .on  top,  drain 
the  fat  carefully  off  the  oysters,  and  serve,  while  very  hot,  in  the  same  dish. 

Boiled   Prawns. 

Place  a  pint  of  prawns,  previously  thoroughly  washed,  into  a  saucepan  with 
enough  water  to  cover  them,  adding  salt  in  the  proportion  of  one-quarter  pound 
to  each  gallon  of  water ;  set  the  pan  on  a  quick  fire,  and  boil  for  eight  minutes, 
skimming  frequently ;  then  remove,  drain  on  a  sieve,  and  serve  artistically  arranged, 
interspersed  with  parsley. 

Buttered   Prawns. 

Remove  from  their  shells  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  prawns,  and  dredge  over 
them  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  them  two 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  good  rich  gravy,  and  add  a  small  lump  of  butter,  well-kneaded 
with  flour,  to  thicken  it.  Then  place  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer 
gently  for  five  to  six  minutes,  after  which,  turn  the  prawns  out  on  to  a  dish  and  serve. 

Baked   Scallops. 

Take  the  scallops  out  of  their  shells  and  trim  off  the  beards  and  all  the  black 
parts.  Wash  the  deep  shells  of  the  scallops,  dry  them,  put  in  the  scallops,  and  pour 
one-half  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  over  each.  Blanch  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  chop  it 
finely  ;  mix  it  with  the  grated  breadcrumbs,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  bind  the  mixture  into  a  paste  with  a  little  milk.  Spread  some  of  the  paste  over 
each  shell,  strew  a  few  dried  breadcrumbs  on  the  top,  and  put  a  small  piece  of 
butter  on  each.  Place  them  in  a  brisk  oven  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  the 
scallops  very  hot  and  in  their  shells,  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish. 

Fried   Scallops. 

Trim  off  the  beards  and  black  parts,  clean  the  scallops  well  and  drain  them.  Put 
a  lump  of  lard  into  a  flat  stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  until  blue  smoke  rises,  then 
put  in  the  scallops  and  fry  them  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  them  for  a  moment  on 


n8  SHELL-FISH. 

a  sheet  of  paper,  arrange  them  on   a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded 
napkin  garnished  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 


Stewed   Scallops. 


Put  some  scallops  in  a  stewpan  with  a  half  blade  of  mace,  a  little  sugar  and  suf- 
ficient water  to  cover  them ;  stew  gently  by  the  edge  of  the  fire  for  about  thirty  min- 
utes or  until  tender.  Put  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour  and  mix  it  over  the  fire,  then  stir  in  some  of  the  liquor  in  which 
the  scallops  were  stewed,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  flavor  with  a  little  grated 
nutmeg.  Arrange  the  scallops  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them  and  serve. 


Shrimps   and   Boiled   Rice. 


Make  thick  white  sauce  of  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  one-half  pint  of  milk ;  flavor  it  sparingly  with  mace,  cayenne  and  salt. 
Stir  into  the  sauce  one  pint  of  shelled  shrimps ;  when  they  are  thoroughly  hot,  pour 
them  on  to  a  hot  dish,  arrange  around  them  a  border  of  boiled  rice  and  serve. 


Buttered   Shrimps. 


Shell  some  shrimps  and  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  a  small 
quantity  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  hot.  Fry  some  thin 
slices  of  bread  in  butter,  drain  when  a  golden  brown  and  place  them  on  a  hot  dish; 
pile  the  buttered  shrimps  on  the  bread  and  serve. 


Shrimp   Cromeskies. 


Shell  some  shrimps  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces.  Prepare  some  veloute  sauce 
and  reduce  it  to  half  its  original  quantity;  move  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  stir 
in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  divided  into  small 
pieces,  continue  stirring  the  sauce  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  adding,  when  thick,  the 
shrimps.  Leave  the  mixture  until  cold,  then  divide  it  into  equal  parts  and  wrap  each 
one  separately  in  squares  of  udder;  roll  the  cromeskies  to  the  shape  of  a  cork,  dip 
them  in  frying  batter,  then  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat  and  fry  until  crisp  and  nicely 
browned.  When  cooked  drain  the  cromeskies,  put  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  orna- 
mental dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 


Shrimps,  Normandy   Style. 


Skin  and  remove  the  heads  from  one  pint  of  fresh  shrimps;  put  one  ounce  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  until  melted,  then  stir  in  one  tablespoonful 
of  ground  rice;  mix  in  one-half  pint  of  new  milk,  and  continue  stirring  until  it  is 


SHELL-FISH.  119 

thickened  and  boiling.  Then  put  in  the  shrimps  and  leave  them  until  quite  hot. 
When  ready  turn  them  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of 
fried  bread  and  serve. 


Shrimp   Patties   or   Bouchees. 


Remove  the  shells  from  three  or  four  pints  of  fresh  shrimps;  bone  and  chop 
finely  three  anchovies,  mix  them  with  the  shrimps,  and  season  to  taste  with  pounded 
mace  and  cloves.  Moisten  the  mixture  with  about  one  and  one-half  wineglassfuls  of 
white  wine.  Prepare  some  puff  paste,  roll  it  to  about  one-half  inch  in  thickness,  cut 
the  paste  into  rounds  with  a  two-inch  tin  cutter,  then  with  a  one-inch  cutter  cut  half 
way  through  the  middle  of  each  round  of  paste.  Brush  the  rounds  over  with  a  paste- 
brush  dipped  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven.  Heat  the 
shrimp  mixture  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  patties  are  cooked  lift  off 
the  piece  marked  with  the  cutter,  scoop  out  the  soft  inside,  fill  them  with  the  mixture, 
cover  with  the  small  rounds  of  paste,  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been 
spread  a  folded  napkin,  garnished  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Scalloped   Shrimps. 

Prepare  one-half  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  and  put  in  with  it  one-half  pint  of  picked 
shrimps,  and  one  wineglassful  of  either  red  or  white  wine.  Stir  the  above  ingredients 
in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  turn  them  into  a  scallop  dish;  cover  the 
top  with  finely  grated  breadcrumbs,  put  three  or  four  lumps  of  butter  over,  and  bake 
until  browned.  When  well  colored,  take  the  dish  out  of  the  oven  and  serve  the 
shrimps  while  hot. 

Stewed   Shrimps. 

Pick  one  quart  of  shrimps,  reserve  their  tails,  and  place  the  remainder  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  one-half  pint  of  water,  and  pour  in  a  little  vinegar;  also  put  one-half  blade 
of  mace;  let  them  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  occasion- 
ally. Strain  the  liquor  into  another  saucepan,  add  the  tails,  half  of  a  grated  nutmeg, 
a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  two  ounces  of  butter  that  has  been  worked  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Toast 
a  thin  slice  of  bread,  cut  it  into  strips,  place  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  hot  dish,  pour 
the  stew  over  them,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

The   Diamond-Back   or   Salt-Water   Terrapin. 

Three  species  of  the  genus  Malacoclemmys  inhabit  the  United  States.  By  far 
the  most  important  of  these,  and  the  most  valuable  of  all  terrapins  is  the  Malacoclem- 
mys Palustris,  or  the  "diamond-back  terrapin." 

The  other    two    species,    the    Geographic   Tortoises,    M.    Geographica  and  M. 


120  SHELL-FISH. 

Lesueuri  are  of  a  comparatively  rare  occurrence  and  are  not  used  for  food  to  any 
considerable  extent. 

DISTRIBUTION. — The  "diamond-back,"  or  "salt-water  terrapin"  is  common  along 
our  entire  Atlantic  coast,  from  Nantucket  and  New  Bedford,  in  Massachusetts,  to 
Texas.  It  also  occurs  in  South  America.  It  was  introduced  into  Italy  by  the  Prince 
of  Canino  a  number  of  years  ago,  but  of  the  success  of  the  enterprise  I  have  been  un- 
able to  learn.  Those  who  enter  into  commerce  however  are  principally  from  the 
Chesapeake  Bay  and  the  coast  of  the  Carolinas.  Some  very  fine  ones  also  come  from 
Egg  Harbor,  N.  J. 

CHARACTERISTICS  AND  HABITS. — The  diamond-back  lives  in  salt  marshes  near 
the  coast,  and  is  seldom  found  far  from  them.  They  were  formerly  very  abundant  in 
such  localities,  and  could  be  often  seen  on  warm  days  sunning  themselves  on  the  bars 
and  flats.  But  the  increasing  demand  for  them  and  the  wholesale  capture  of  old  and 
young  have  reduced  their  numbers  very  materially.  The  species  is  a  comparatively 
small  one,  and  varies  much  in  external  appearance.  The  females  attain  a  larger  size 
than  the  male  and  are  much  more  highly  prized  in  the  market.  The  average  length 
of  the  under  part  of  the  shell  is  seven  inches,  and  the  weight  of  the  animal  four  or 
five  pounds.  Rarely  the  length  reaches  ten  inches,  and  the  terrapin  weighs  about  ten 
pounds.  The  fixed  standard  of  length  for  salable  females  in  most  markets  is  six 
inches,  but  in  some  it  is  as  low  as  five  inches.  The  terrapin  having  that  length  are 
known  as  "counts."  The  small  specimens  are  separated  into  "heifers"  and  "little 
bulls ;"  their  under  shell  rarely  exceeds  five  inches  in  length.  As  has  been  already 
said,  they  are  deemed  very  inferior  to  the  females,  and  the  price  of  them  is  therefore 
much  lower. 

In  regard  to  the  rate  of  growth,  I  have  seen  it  stated  that  the  diamond-back 
reaches  maturity,  or  rather  lays  eggs  when  four  years  old,  but  this  is  hardly  probable. 
It  does  not  accord  with  the  observations  of  Agassiz  and  others  nor  with  the  peculiari- 
ties of  the  group  generally.  Experiments  made  by  a  dealer  in  North  Carolina  seem 
to  show  that  the  species  grow  about  one  inch  each  year,  so  that  "counts"  are  at  least 
six  years  old.  Probably  ten  years  at  least  elapse  before  they  are  fully  grown. 

FOOD. — What  the  food  of  the  diamond-back  terrapin  is  does  not  seem  to  be  exactly 
known.  Very  probably,  however,  it  consists  of  such  matter,  both  animal  and  vegeta- 
ble, as  the  animal  is  able  to  find  in  the  marshes  in  which  it  lives.  When  penned, 
preparatory  to  sending  them  to  market,  they  are  fed  on  crabs,  oysters  and  fish.  To 
give  them  the  finest  flavor,  they  are  said  to  be  fed  upon  celery  for  some  days  previous 
to  being  served.  In  the  winter  the  tortoise  hibernates  and  takes  no  food,  remaining 
buried  several  inches  in  the  mud.  Unfortunately  for  its  welfare,  a  little  mound  of  mud 
is  always  raised  above  the  spot  where  it  disappears,  which  at  once  catches  the  eye  of 
the  terrapin  fisherman.  A  large  proportion  of  the  terrapins  are  taken  while  they  are 
in  this  torpid  condition. 

BREEDING  HABITS — Like  all  other  species  of  tortoises,  the  diamond-back  deposits 
its  eggs  on  land.  When  the  laying  season  arrives,  the  female  seeks  some  sandy  bar  or 


SHELL-FISH.  121 

bank  above  water,  and  having  excavated  a  shallow  pit  with  the  hind  legs,  deposits 
from  five  to  seven  eggs.  The  breeding  season  occurs  in  the  latter  part  of  June  and 
early  part  of  July.  It  is  said  that  the  young  show  no  disposition  to  seek  the  water, 
but  prefer  to  remain  in  the  sand. 

ECONOMIC  VALUE. — The  diamond-back  is  highly  prized  for  food.  Philadelphia 
furnished  the  best  market  for  this  species,  but  it  is  also  sold  in  large  numbers  in  Balti- 
more, Washington,  New  York,  Boston,  Chicago,  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis  and 
many  other  cities.  The  season  lasts  from  the  beginning  of  October  to  the  first  or 
middle  of  June  ;  the  best  months  are  October  and  November.  The  specimens  from  North 
Carolina  usually  appear  in  the  market  last.  The  "counts"  or  those  over  six  inches 
long  bring  from  eighteen  to  thirty-six  dollars  per  dozen  in  the  market ;  the  smaller 
o/nes  are  usually  sold  separately  at  prices  of  from  fifteen  to  fifty  cents  apiece.  These 
prices,  however,  are  almost  sixty  per  cent  higher  than  the  prices  received  by  the 
catcher,  for  the  terrapins  pass  through  several  hands  on  their  way  to  the  market.  The 
majority  of  terrapins  are  actually  caught  in  the  summer  months  and  are  penned  in  yards, 
known  as  "crawls"  until  the  marketing  season  arrives, 

To  kill  the  terrapin  it  is  necessary  to  have  ready  a  large  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  one  that  will  hold  a  terrapin  easily,  and  to  plunge  the  creature  into  it  head 
first,  putting  the  lid  or  cover  on  the  pan  immediately,  and  leaving  it  in  the  water  for 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Then  remove  it  and  peel  off  the  black  skin  from  the  shell, 
and  the  nails  from  the  claws.  Wash  the  terrapin  thoroughly  in  warm  water,  and 
remove  the  under  shell  by  chipping  through  the  thinnest  parts,  where  the  black  shell 
joins.  Cut  close  to  the  shell  so  as  not  to  lose  any  meat,  pour  away  the  water,  but 
keep  the  blood,  which  will  be  found  in  the  deep  or  black  shell.  Take  out  the  dark  green 
gall  bladder,  which  is  about  the  size  of  a  cherry,  and  will  be  found  near  the  center  at  the 
side  of  the  liver,  and  also  the  sand  bag  and  entrail,  and  preserve  the  eggs,  if  there  be  any. 
Loosen  the  meat  from  the  top  shell,  cutting  through  the  spine  bone,  just  above  the  tail, 
where  it  is  attached  to  the  shell,  turn  the  terrapin  into  a  flat  pan,  and  cut  off  the  head. 
This,  with  the  shell,  can  be  used  for  soup.  Separate  the  two  fore  and  two  hind  legs,  so 
as  to  have  four  pieces,  trim  off  the  claws,  and  scrape  off  the  thin  outside  covering.  In 
the  female  terrapin  there  will  be  found  rich  fat  at  the  shoulders.  This  should  be 
taken  off,  as  it  does  not  require  so  much  cooking  as  the  other  parts,  and  should  only 
be  added  when  they  are  nearly  done.  It  is  of  a  dark  green  color.  All  the  pieces  of 
meat,  together  with  the  fat  and  legs,  should  be  kept  in  water  until  wanted  for  use. 
Only  the  flesh,  eggs  and  liver  of  the  terrapin  are  ordinarily  used,  but  sometimes  the 
intestines  are  scalded  and  scraped,  and  added  to  the  terrapin.  When  there  are  no 
eggs  in  the  terrapin,  egg  balls  are  made  to  accompany  it. 

Baked  Terrapin. 

Cut  off  the  head  of  a  terrapin,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  or  pot  with  the  shell  on,  and 
let  it  boil  until  the  under  shell  can  be  removed  easily.  Take  it  out,  pull  out  all  the 


122  SHELL-FISH. 

meat,  cleaning  the  upper  shell  thoroughly ;  pick  the  meat  to  pieces,  and  mix  it  up 
with  a  few  crackers  and  chopped  onions,  a  small  quantity  each  of  allspice,  black 
pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  butter,  and  pour  over  a  small  quantity  of  wine.  Put 
this  mixture  into  the  top  shell,  place  a  few  slices  of  lemon  on  the  top,  set  it  in  the 
oven  and  bake.  When  done  take  it  out  and  serve. 

Baked   Terrapins,  Maryland   Style. 

Half  fill  a  baking  pan  with  dry  gravel  or  sand,  put  it  into  an  oven  and  make  it 
quite  hot;  wash  well  three  terrapins  that  have  been  killed,  remove  their  heads,  put 
them  with  the  top  shell  downward  in  the  sand  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  an  hour. 
Take  them  out,  remove  the  under  shell,  gall  bag  and  entrails  and  loosen  the  meat 
without  taking  it  out  of  the  back  shell.  Pull  off  the  legs,  skin  them  and  lay  them  on 
the  top.  Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  butter  in  a  basin  to  soften,  mix  in  one  teacup- 
ful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  black  pepper  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Put  a  little  more  than  one  tablespoonful  of  this  into  each  terrapin,  place  them  back 
in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  take  them  out  and  serve  on  a  napkin  spread  on  a  dish. 

Fricassee  of  Terrapin. 

Put  the  meat  of  two  or  three  terrapins  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  sweet  herbs;  cook  until  it  is  slightly  colored,  sprinkle 
in  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  pour  in  gradually 
sufficient  cream  to  cover.  Boil  for  four  minutes  without  stirring,  then  add  one  wine- 
glassful  of  sherry;  boil  again  for  ten  nr'nutes,  take  the  saucepan  from  the  fire, 
thicken  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  remove  the  bunch  of  sweet  herbs 
and  parsley,  add  five  ounces  of  butter  broken  up  into  small  pieces,  turn  the  whole 
out  on  to  a  dish  and  serve  with  minced  parsley  sprinkled  over  it. 

Terrapin   Steaks. 

Cut  the  meat  of  a  terrapin  into  slices  or  steaks,  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt 
and  pepper,  place  a  few  lumps  of  butter  on  them  and  either  fry  them  in  a  frying- 
pan  or  broil  them  on  a  gridiron.  When  done  place  them  on  a  dish  and  serve  very 
hot;  or  they  may  be  dipped  in  butter  before  being  salted  and  peppered,  covered 
with  melted  breadcrumbs  and  then  cooked. 

Stewed   Terrapins. 

Cut  the  flesh  off  some  small  terrapins  in  little  pieces,  and  put  them  over  the  fire 
in  a  stewpan,  together  with  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt,  a  little  cayenne  pepper 
and  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Let  them  stew  in  the  butter  for  a  short  time,  add  one 
wineglassful  of  water  for  each  terrapin,  and  put  in  at  the  same  time  a  piece  of  butter 


SHELL-FISH.  123 

rolled  in  flour  ;  stew  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  for  each  terrapin  one  wineglassful  of 
white  wine,  and  let  it  stew  for  another  five  minutes ;  then  move  the  pan  to  the  side  of 
the  fire,  and  stir  in  some  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  allowing  one  yolk  to  two  terrapins. 
Cover  the  pan  tightly  and  let  it  stand  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Then  pour  the  ter- 
rapins, sauce  and  all,  into  a  tureen  and  serve. 

Stewed   Terrapin,  Baltimore   Style. 

Prepare  two  medium  sized  terrapins.  Make  one  pint  or  so  of  mirepoix  sauce, 
add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes ;  moisten  with  one 
wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  strong  broth.  Stir  con- 
stantly, season  with  a  small  pinch  of  salt  and  a  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  reduce 
the  liquor  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Cut  the  terrapins  into  small  pieces,  throwing 
the  ends  of  the  claws  away ;  place  the  pieces  in  a  stewpan,  straining  the  sauce  over 
them  and  finish  with  one  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  also  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Then  dish 
up  and  serve. 

Stewed   Terrapin,  Maryland   Style. 

Carefully  cut  up  two  terrapins,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  wineglassful  of 
good  Madeira  wine,  a  small  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  an  ounce  or 
two  of  good  butter.  Mix  thoroughly  one  breakfast  cupful  of  sweet  cream  with  the 
yolks  of  three  boiled  eggs,  and  add  it  to  the  terrapin,  stirring  continually  while  thor- 
oughly heating,  but  without  letting  it  come  to  a  boil  Turn  the  whole  into  a  tureen, 
and  serve  it  very  hot. 

Vol-au-Vent  of  Terrapin. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  terrapin  stock  into  a  saucepan  with  two  or  three 
cloves  and  a  little  mace  or  parsley,  and  boil  it  up ;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  browned 
flour  mixed  up  with  an  equal  amount  of  butter  to  thicken  it,  pour  in  one  wineglassful 
of  sherry  wine,  and  strain  the  liquor  into  another  saucepan.  Add  two  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  terrapin  meat  cut  up  into  small  pieces,  sprinkle  on  a  little  salt  and  cayenne, 
simmer  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  preparation  is  done.  Have  in  readi- 
ness eight  vol-au-vent  cases  lined  with  puff  paste  and  baked,  fill  them  with  the  terra- 
pin mixture,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin  spread  over  a  dish. 

Turtle   Fins   Financiere. 

Scald  and  wash  the  fins  of  a  turtle,  remove  the  large  bones,  and  insert  thin  tubes 
in  the  cavities  ;  bind  the  fins  tightly  in  cloths,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  enough 
water  or  broth  to  cover,  and  boil  until  tender.  When  done,  take  them  out  and  let 
them  cool,  but  without  removing  the  cloths.  Have  ready  a  little  turtle  quenelle  mix- 
ture poached  in  turtle  consomme,  remove  the  cloths  and  tubes  from  the  fins,  stuff 
them  with  the  mixture,  warm  up  again  and  serve.  A  garnish  composed  of  fancy 


124  SHELL-FISH. 

shapes  cut  out  from  the  firm  red  part  of  a  cooked  beef  tongue,  truffles,  breast  of 
chicken,  champignons,  and  also  small  quenelles,  may  also  be  used. 

Stewed  Turtle. 

Clean  a  small  turtle,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water,  and  sufficiently  boil  it 
to  enable  the  meat  to  be  easily  removed.  Cut  out  the  meat  in  small  pieces,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  seasoning  of  salt,  cayenne  pepper,  spices  and  a  little  lemon  ; 
add  a  few  hard  boiled  eggs  cut  up  and  sufficient  white  wine  to  moisten.  Boil  until 
the  meat  is  quite  tender,  turn  the  whole  out  on  to  a  dish  and  serve.  The  meat  for 
this  should  be  rather  over  than  underdone.  The  wine  and  lemon  may  be  substituted 
by  rich  stock  or  by  turtle  soup, 


Side  Dishes. 

Anchovy   Tartines. 


Unroll,  dry  and  cut  into  narrow  strips  the  contents  of  a  bottle  of  anchovies  pre- 
served in  oil.  Cut  some  French  rolls  into  round  slices,  butter  them  well  and  arrange 
a  few  of  the  strips  of  anchovy  on  them  so  as  to  form  an  open  or  trellis  work.  In  the 
center,  or  opening,  put  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg  and  parsley  or  finely  chopped 
gherkins,  varying  them  so  as  not  to  let  the  colors  contrast;  put  them  on  a  dish  with  a 
napkin  spread  over  it  and  serve  with  cheese. 

Deviled  Bones. 

Select  bones  which  have  not  been  quite  stripped  of  meat  and  mix  with  a  little  dry 
mustard  and  salt  and  make  up  with  a  lump  of  butter.  Rub  this  well  into  and  over 
the  bones,  and  dust  lightly  with  cayenne  pepper  and  broil.  Serve  with  mushrooms 
fried  in  butter. 

Marrow   Bones. 

May  be  either  deviled  or  boiled,  but  in  either  instance  the  ends  should  be  well 
sealed  with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  water.  Serve  with  slices  of  hot  buttered  toast, 
without  crust,  and  a  marrow  spoon  for  transferring  the  marrow  to  the  toast. 

Bouchees  of  Beef  Palates. 

Chop  up  two  cold  cooked  beef  palates  into  very  small  pieces  and  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  one-third  of  their  bulk  of  chopped  cooked  mushrooms;  pour  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  very  good  bechamel  sauce  into  another  saucepan,  reduce  it,  stirring 
continually,  and  adding  gradually  one-half  teacupful  of  melted  glaze.  Add  it  to 
the  salpicon  of  palates  and  mushrooms,  and  put  the  saucepan  containing  them  into 
the  bain-marie  to  keep  hot.  Have  ready  some  bouchees  cases,  made  of  puff  paste, 
remove  the  top,  put  in  some  of  the  mixture,  cover  them  over,  arrange  on  a  napkin 
spread  on  a  dish  and  serve. 


Bouchees,  Queen   Style. 


Roll  some  good  puff  paste  into  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  let  it 
remain  in  a  cold  place  for  ten  minutes,  then  cut  six  rounds  out  of  the  paste  with  a 
three-inch  cutter,  fluted ;  lay  these  on  a  buttered  tin  baking-dish,  slightly  separated 

125 


i26  SIDE    DISHES. 

from  each  other,  and  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg  ;  make  a  mark  on  the  surface 
of  each  with  a  paste  cutter  two  inches  in  diameter,  being  careful  to  dip  the  cutter 
each  time  in  hot  water,  so  that  the  marked  line  may  remain  perfect  ;  then  place  in 
a  brisk  oven  for  twenty  minutes  ;  lift  the  centers  with  a  knife,  remove  the  crumb  and 
fill  with  a  white  salpicon,  made  of  truffles,  mushrooms  and  finely  shredded  chicken 
and  tongue  cut  up  into  small  dice.  Set  the  centers  on  again  as  covers,  and  serve  on 
a  hot  dish  with  a  folded  napkin  on  it. 

Bouchees  of  Sardines. 

Pound  one  or  two  boned  sardines  in  a  mortar,  together  with  a  small  quantity 
of  cheese,  and  add  salt,  pepper  and  chili  vinegar  until  the  mixture  has  the  taste 
and  appearance  of  dressed  crab.  Mix  in  a  few  chopped  oysters  ;  put  the  mixture 
into  small  cases  of  bread  fried  in  butter,  and  garnish  with  hard  boiled  yolk  of  egg 
rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  mixed  with  finely-chopped  parsley.  Arrange  these 
bouchees  on  a  napkin  on.  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Canapes. 

Cut  several  thin  slices  of  bread,  remove  the  crusts  and  toast  them  till  they  are 
of  an  even  brown.  Butter  slightly  and  spread  with  any  kind  of  potted  meat  or  fish. 
Put  two  slices  together,  and  cut  them  in  long  strips.  They  afford  a  tasty  dish  for 
tea  or  supper  parties. 

Artichoke   Bottoms   for   Canapes. 

Cook  the  artichokes,  spreading  over  the  bottoms  some  anchovy  butter  and  decorate 
with  pickled  cucumbers,  capers  or  gherkins,  anchovies  and  the  whites  and  yolks  of 
hard-boiled  eggs.  Pour  over  them  a  salad  dressing  and  garnish  with  water  cresses. 

Canapes  of  Caviar. 

Cut  three  or  four  slices  of  bread  about  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness,  and  then 
cut  them  up  into  round  pieces  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  of  about  two  inches  in  diameter. 
Put  these  into  a  pan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  color. 
When  done,  spread  on  the  rounds  a  layer  of  caviar,  and  serve  them  on  a  dish  covered 
with  a  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper. 

Cheese   Canapes. 

Cut  a  few  pieces  of  bread  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  trim  off  the 
crusts,  and  then  cut  them  up  one  inch  wide  and  three  inches  long;  fry  these  a  delicate 
brown  in  clarified  butter;  grate  a  little  cheese  over  them,  sprinkle  on  the  tops  a  little 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  them  in  the  oven  until  the  cheese  has  melted. 


SIDE    DISHES.  127 

Serve  while  hot.  A  fillet  of  anchovy  shredded  into  two  laid  lengthwise  on  these 
canapes  are  an  improvement,  and  they  may  be  eaten  cold  with  salad.  They  may  also 
be  garnished  with  finely  chopped  parsley. 

Canapes  of  Crab 

Take  six  slices  of  bread,  cut  off  the  crusts,  and  fry  the  slices  to  a  light  brown 
with  a  pat  of  butter.  Take  the  lower  shell  from  a  few  crabs,  and  pick  out  the  meat 
from  the  body  and  claws;  place  the  meat  on  a  plate,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
mince  up  well.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  a  chopped  onion,  cook 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  the  onion  brown.  Stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  then  one  gill  of  broth,  add  the  crab  meat,  cook  and  continue  stirring  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Have  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  a  hot  stove,  mix  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook  slowly  for  three  minutes;  add  two  ounces  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  and  the  same  quantity  of  grated  Gruyere;  stir  together  and  turn 
into  a  basin  to  cool.  Spread  a  layer  of  the  forcemeat  on  each  slice  of  toast.  Divide 
the  cheese  into  six  equal  parts,  roll  each  into  a  ball,  range  it  in  the  center,  over  the 
layer  of  forcemeat.  Place  them  on  a  flat  dish,  and  bake  in  the  brisk  oven  for  five  or 
six  minutes.  When  ready  take  the  dish  out  of  the  oven  and  serve  at  once. 

Egg  Canapes. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  of  water  four  eggs  and  boil  for  ten  minutes,  or  until  quite 
hard;  then  peel  off  the  shells,  cut  the  eggs  in  halves,  remove  the  yolks  and  chop 
them  up.  Soak  two  anchovies,  dry  and  remove  the  bones  and  chop  them  up 
with  three  truffles  and  six  capers;  mix  in  the  chopped  yolks,  add  a  seasoning  of 
salt,  pepper  and  cayenne  and  one  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Fill  the  halves 
of  eggs  with  this  mixture,  place  each  one  on  a  piece  of  fried  bread,  heat  in  the  oven 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Eggs  and  Caviar  Canapes. 

Cut  a  French  roll  into  slices  of  moderate  thickness  and  butter  them;  spread  over 
each  a  layer  of  Russian  caviar  and  squeeze  over  a  little  lemon  juice.  Boil  some  eggs 
till  hard  and  when  cold  peel  and  cut  into  slices;  lay  a  slice  of  egg  on  each  slice  of 
roll  and  press  them  slightly  together.  Put  the  canapes  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  nap- 
kin or  a  dish-paper,  garnish  them  with  green  parsley  and  serve.  A  very  small  quan- 
tity of  finely  minced  parsley  strewn  over  the  tops  of  the  eggs  will  be  found  an  im- 
provement. 

Canapes  of  Lobster. 

Spread  with  lobster  butter  a  few  thin  slices  of  bread  fried  in  butter;  leave  for 
two  hours  some  slices  of  lobster  in  a  marinade  of  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper.  Take 
them  out,  set  them  in  the  middle  of  the  bread  and  place  a  group  of  capers  on  each 
piece. 


128  SIDE   DISHES. 

Canapes  Lorenzo. 

Cut  six  slices  of  bread  the  width  of  an  American  loaf  and  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  neatly  pare  off  the  crust  and  fry  in  a  sautoire,  together  with  half 
an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  so  as  to  make  them  a  light  brown  color ;  then  boil  eighteen 
hard-shell  crabs  in  salted  water  for  about  twelve  minutes,  after  which  remove  and 
allow  them  to  become  cool,  when  the  upper  shell  should  be  removed,  and  with  the 
aid  of  a  pointed  knife  pick  out  all  of  the  meat,  cracking  the  claws  and  removing  all 
the  meat  from  there  also  ;  place  it  all  on  a  plate,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  red  pepper  ;  then  place  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan, 
with  a  peeled  and  very  finely  chopped  onion,  and  cook  them  together  for  about  two 
minutes  over  a  moderate  fire  ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  again  for  two 
minutes,  and  add  one  gill  of  broth,  and  stir  while  slowly  cooking  for  five  minutes, 
now  add  the  crab  meat,  and  cook  for  quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  once  in  a  while  with 
a  wooden  spoon,  then  remove  into  another  vessel  and  let  it  cool  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Put  in  a  sautoire  a  tablespoonful  of  good  butter  over  a  stove,  and  mix  in  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook  for  three  minutes  gently ;  add  a  couple  of  ounces  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  an  equal  quantity  of  Swiss  cheese,  stirring  well  together; 
place  it  in  a  vessel  to  cool.  Put  a  layer  of  crab  meat  on  each  slice  of  toast  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  divide  the  prepared  cheese  in  six  equal  portions,  forming  them 
into  ball  shapes  about  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  arrange  them  over  the  layer  of 
crab  meat  in  the  center,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  for  about  five 
minutes,  then  take  them  out  and  serve  them  in  the  same  dish  in  which  they  have 
been  cooked. 

Canapes  Madison. 

Cut  six  thin  slices  of  bread  and  trim  them  all  alike,  toast  to  a  golden  color,  and 
place  them  on  a  dish.  Cover  each  slice  with  a  very  thin  slice  of  lean  cooked  ham  ; 
spread  a  little  mustard  over  it,  then  cover  with  a  layer  of  provincial  garnishing. 
Dredge  grated  Parmesan  cheese  on  the  top,  and  strew  a  little  fresh  breadcrumbs  over 
all.  Place  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  take  them  out, 
arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  covered  by  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Olive  and  Anchovy  Canapes. 

Stone  and  peel  some  olives,  being  sure  to  keep  their  shape  as  much  as  possible ; 
wash  an  equal  number  of  anchovies  and  coil  an  anchovy  around  each  olive.  Cut  as 
many  rounds  of  bread  as  there  are  olives  and  toast  them  lightly  on  both  sides ;  butter 
them  while  they  are  hot  and  put  an  olive  on  each.  Spread  a  dish  paper  over  a  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  toast  on  it,  garnish  with  a  border  of  fresh  well-washed  water- 
cresses,  and  serve.  This  dish  is  much  used  for  luncheons, 


SIDE    DISHES.  129 

Olive  and   Caper   Canapes. 

Cut  six  slices  of  bread  out  of  which  cut  twelve  rounds.  Melt  some  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  then  put  in  the  slices  of  bread  and  fry  them.  When  they  are  nicely  browned 
take  them  out  of  the  fat  and  place  them  on  a  piece  of  paper  to  drain.  Skin  and  bone 
twelve  anchovies,  put  them  in  a  mortar,  mash,  then  rub  them  through  a  fine  wire 
sieve.  Spread  the  anchovy  paste  over  the  pieces  of  bread,  strew  finely  chopped 
capers  and  olives  on  the  top,  place  them  on  a  baking-dish  and  put  in  a  brisk  oven  for 
ten  minutes.  Arrange  the  toast  on  a  fancy  napkin  and  serve  it  while  it  is  very  hot. 

Oyster   Canapes. 

Finely  chop  a  dozen  oysters,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
cracker  dust  or  finely  grated  breadcrumb,  a  lump  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
and  one-half  teacupful  of  thick  cream,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  the 
mixture  over  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread 
about  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness,  butter  them,  and  put  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour 
the  mixture  over  the  bread  and  butter  and  serve  it  while  hot. 


Canapes  of  Sardines. 


Bone  six  or  eight  sardines,  put  half  of  them  in  a  mortar  with  the  hard-boiled 
yolks  of  three  eggs  and  pound  them,  mixing  in  by  degrees  sufficient  butter  to  make 
a  firm  paste.  Season  the  mixture  with  a  small  quantity  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
chives  and  tarragon,  mustard,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  vinegar.  Rub  all  the 
ingredients  together  until  quite  smooth.  Cut  slices  of  bread  into  oval-shaped  pieces, 
and  fry  them  in  butter  until  well  browned,  but  not  too  dark  a  color.  When  fried 
drain  and  spread  over  with  the  sardine  mixture.  Arrange  the  slices  on  a  dish  over 
which  has  been  spread  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin.  Cut  a  few  more 
sardines  into  small  fillets,  lay  them  on  the  canapes  with  very  small  slices  of  pickled 
gherkins  and  a  few  shelled  prawns.  This  is  a  very  pretty  dish  and  simple  in  con- 
struction. 

Canapes -of  Smoked   Salmon. 

Fry  in  clarified  butter  some  fingers  of  bread,  two  and  one-half  inches  long,  one 
and  one-half  inches  wide  and  one-fourth  inch  thick;  when  lightly  browned  drain  them 
and  leave  them  until  cold.  Mask  the  pieces  of  bread  with  anchovy  butter,  place  some 
thin  slices  of  smoked  salmon  on  each,  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  hard-boiled  egg 
and  parsley  and  serve. 

Tricolor   Canapes. 

Skin  and  bone  six  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  and  pass  them  through  a 
fine  wire  sieve.  Boil  three  eggs  until  they  are  hard,  separate  the  whites  from  the 


130  SIDE    DISHES. 

yolks  and  pass  them  separately  through  the  sieve.  Care  must  be  taken  in  preparing 
these  ingredients  not  to  get  the  colors  mixed.  Cut  four  slices  of  bread,  trim  off  the 
crusts,  and  cut  each  slice  into  two  square  pieces.  Put  a  strip  of  the  hard-boiled  white 
of  an  egg  on  a  piece  of  fried  bread,  next  a  strip  of  finely-chopped  gherkins  or  capers, 
and  next  a  strip  of  the  yolk  of  eggs,  thus  making  three  colors  on  one  piece  of  bread. 
Proceed  in  like  manner  with  the  rest.  Spread  a  fancy  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin 
over  a  dish,  arrange  the  canapes  neatly  on  it,  placing  here  and  there  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley  and  serve. 

Caviar   on   Toast. 

Prepare  six  rounds  of  toast  of  white  bread.  Place  in  a  saucepan  two  large  table- 
spoonfuls  of  caviar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  cream,  heat  for  a  minute  or  two  at  one 
side  of  the  fire,  stirring  carefully  meanwhile.  Pour  this  mixture  over  the  toast  and 
serve  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Caviar   with   Eggs. 

Cut  off  from  stale  French  rolls  some  slices  about  a  third  of  an  inch  thick;  spread 
on  them  anchovy  butter  or  fry  them  lightly  in  butter.  Spread  over  each  slice  a 
thick  layer  of  caviar,  then  squeeze  over  a  little  lemon  juice  and  add  a  seasoning  of 
salt  and  pepper.  Have  prepared  some  hard  boiled  eggs,  peel  them  and  cut  them 
into  slices,  using  a  very  sharp  knife;  lay  the  slices  of  egg,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
bread,  and  serve  on  a  dish  on  which  has  been  laid  an  ornamental  paper.  A  bit  of 
chopped  mustard  and  cress  salad  spread  over  the  caviar  is  an  improvement. 


Curling   Celery. 


Slit  the  stalks  with  a  penknife  closely  should  the  fringe  be  too  fine,  taking  care 
that  the  slits  all  end  at  an  even  line.  If  a  large  amount  of  celery  is  used  every  day 
set  on  the  tables  in  celery  glasses,  a  sort  of  rake  is  used  in  place  of  the  penknife,  and 
this  rake  is  made  by  driving  a  number  of  the  three-edged  sacking  needles  of  the  very 
smallest  size  through  a  soft  piece  of  cigar  boxwood.  The  celery  ends  are  combed 
with  this  and  then  put  in  glasses  of  ice-water  to  cool  at  leisure. 


Frizzled   Celery. 


Take  one  large  head  of  good  celery,  pare  off  the  green  stalks  and  cut  off  the 
root,  which  may  be  used  for  salad.  Cut  the  stalk  lengthwise  into  four  equal  parts, 
wash  them  well  in  cold  water  and  cut  each  one  into  pieces  about  three  inches  long, 
and  by  doing  this  all  the  branches  will  be  separated.  With  the  aid  of  a  small  sharp 
knife  pare  the  thin  sides  a  little,  making  five  or  six  slits  in  each  piece,  starting  from 
the  top  downward,  leaving  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch  uncut,  and  put 
them  in  cold  water  with  plenty  of  ice,  allowing  them  to  remain  for  about  two  hours. 
Then  remove  them  from  the  ice  water,  arrange  them  tastefully  on  a  round  glass  dish 


SIDE    DISHES.  131 

and  serve.     Celery  arranged  and  served  in  this  way  makes   a  beautiful  effect  on  the 
table,  though  it  requires  time  and  patience  to  prepare  it. 

Serving   Celery   in   a   Glass. 

Thoroughly  wash  two  or  three  heads  of  fine  white  celery,  pare  off  the  green 
stalks  and  trim  the  roots,  being  careful  to  save  the  clear  white  hearts.  Cut  every 
head  lengthwise  into  quarters,  rinse  them  again  in  cold  water,  and  let  them  remain  in 
a  dish  of  clean  ice  water  until  required.  Arrange  them  in  a  celery  stand,  or  glass  or 
dress  on  a  china  dish,  with  a  few  pieces  of  ice  in  the  center,  and  serve. 

Olive   Custards. 

• 

Stone  some  olives.  Beat  two  eggs  well,  put  them  into  a  lined  stewpan  with  two 
ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  with  a  wooden  spoon,  stir  over  the  fire 
until  they  are  thick,  then  remove  the  pan.  Cut  as  much  bread  as  there  are  olives, 
fry  them  in  boiling  butter  until  they  are  of  a  light  golden  brown  and  drain  ;  spread 
them  with  a  layer  of  the  anchovy  paste,  then  with  a  layer  of  the  cheese  mixture  and 
put  an  olive  on  each.  Spread  an  ornamented  napkin  on  a  dish,  arrange  the  rounds 
on  it  and  serve. 

•  Olives   Stuffed  with  Anchovies. 

Stone  a  dozen  Spanish  olives  ;  wash  and  bone  five  anchovies,  chop  them  finely, 
put  them  in  a  mortar  with  a  moderate  quantity  each  of  chopped  onion  and  parsley, 
pound  them  smoothly  and  season  with  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper.  Fill  the 
hollows  of  the  olives  left  by  the  stones  with  the  pounded  mixture,  Cut  a  few  slices 
of  bread  and  scoop  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  each  round ;  put  a  large  piece  of  lard 
in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  the  rounds  of  bread  and  fry  them 
until  they  are  brown.  Afterwards  drain,  then  leave  them  until  they  are  cool,  and 
place  an  olive  in  the  middle  of  each.  Arrange  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  small 
quantity  of  mayonnaise  sauce  and  serve. 

Olives   Stuffed  with   Chestnuts. 

Take  twelve  Spanish  olives  and  six  Spanish  chestnuts,  put  two  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  ham  cut  in  small  pieces,  a  small  carrot  and  onion 
peeled  and  cut  into  thin  slices  and  fry  until  they  are  brown;  then  add  a  bay-leaf,  a 
blade  of  mace,  four  peppercorns,  dredge  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  moisten 
with  some  of  the  liquor  from  the  olives.  Stir  the  whole  until  they  are  mixed  then 
place  the  pan  over  the  fire  and  stir  occasionally.  Boil  the  chestnuts  and  when  they 
are  tender  peel  and  put  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  pound  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  pound  until  smooth.  Peel  the  olives, 
remove  the  stones,  fill  the  hollows  with  the  chestnuts,  and  lay  them  in  a  lined  stew- 
pan; strain  the  above  sauce  over  them  and  let  them  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire 


132  SIDE    DISHES. 

until  they  are  hot  through.  Cut  a  thick  slice  of  bread,  fry  it  in  butter  until  it  is 
nicely  browned,  then  drain  and  scoop  out  the  center,  making  a  hollow  large  enough  to 
hold  the  olives.  When  it  is  ready  put  the  olives  on  the  bread,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  tastefully  round  with  quarters  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  pour  the  sauce  round  the 
bread  and  serve  while  it  is  very  hot. 

Dressed    Raw   Onions. 

Peel  some  onions,  chop  fine,  put  in  water  with  a  very  little  salt  and  let  them  soak 
for  an  hour  or  so.  Remove  them,  drain,  place  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  a  mixture  of 
one-half  gill  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  made  mustard,  chili  vinegar  and 
sugar,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Put  a  lump  of  ice  on  top  and  garnish  the  dish 
with  curled  parsley.  If  the  parsley  is  eaten  after  the  onions  it  is  supposed  to  take 
the  smell  away.  , 

Patties. 

Take  a  few  small  patty  pans  and  spread  them  with  short  paste,  make  a  savory 
forcemeat  of  raw  calf's  liver,  fill  the  pans  with  it,  put  over  these  covers  of  thin  paste 
and  place  them  in  a  slack  oven  to  bake.  Remove  when  done,  and  when  they  are  cold 
cut  off  the  covering  of  paste,  take  out  a  little  of  the  inside  and  put  in  a  little  cooked 
goose's  fat  liver.  Replace  that  which  was  removed  and  put  it  over  the  goose's  liver, 
raising  the  preparation  in  a  dome  above  the  edges  of  the  paste.  Set  a  small  jelly 
crouton  on  the  top.  Arrange  the  patties  in  a  pyramid  on  a  dish  and  garnish  them 
with  more  aspic,  according  to  taste. 

Beef  Marrow   Patties. 

Blanch  one-fourth  pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  adding 
occasionally  a  few  drops  of  orange  flower  water.  When  quite  smooth,  mix  with  them 
two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  sufficient 
warm  water  to  make  the  whole  into  a  smooth  paste.  Butter  some  small  shallow 
moulds,  line  them  with  the  paste,  brush  them  over  with  paste  brush  dipped  into  well- 
beaten  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven.  Chop  and  flavor  some  marrow 
with  lemon  peel,  and  mix  some  sweet  cream  with  it.  When  the  patties  are  cooked, 
take  them  out  of  their  moulds,  put  a  small  piece  of  marrow  mixture  in  each,  spread 
them  over  with  white  of  egg  that  has  been  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  dredge  lightly 
with  powdered  sugar.  Put  them  in  the  oven  to  set  the  egg,  then  place  them  on  a  dish 
that  has  been  garnished  with  a  folded  napkin,  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Patties    Dauphine. 

Roll  out  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  brioche  paste  four  times,  then  with  a  round 
tin  cutter  two  inches  in  diameter,  cut  out  of  this  twenty  round  flats;  put  in  the  center 


SIDE    DISHES. 


33 


of  each  one  of  half  of  the  rounds,  a  small  ball  of  croquette  preparation,  then  put  the 
other  rounds  on  top  and  moisten  and  pinch  the  edges  together;  cut  them  again  with 
the  same  tin  cutter  to  make  them  round.  Spread  a  floured  cloth  on  a  baking-sheet, 
arrange  the  patties  on  it  a  short  distance  from  each  other,  cover  with  a  floured  cloth 
and  keep  them  in  a  warm  temperature  for  thirty-five  minutes;  then  put  them  a  few  at 
a  time  into  boiling  fat  and  fry  till  nicely  browned.  When  cooked,  drain  the  patties 
on  a  cloth,  pile  them  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Dresden    Patties. 

Take  three  ounces  of  any  kind  of  cold  boiled  fish,  trim  off  the  skin  and  bone  and 
chop  the  fish  fine.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  flat  stewpan  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  until  mixed,  then  pour  in  a  teacupful  of  milk,  and  continue 
stirring.  Put  the  fish  into  the  boiling  milk,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
cook  over  a  slow  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  Cut  two  large  rounds  of  bread  about  four 
inches  in  diameter  and  one  and  one-half  inches  in  thickness  and  with  a  three-inch  tin 
cutter  cut  half  way  through  each.  Dip  the  rounds  well  in  cream,  then  drain,  and  dip 
them  in  well  beaten  egg.  Season  a  small  plate  of  finely  grated  breadcrumb  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  roll  the  rounds  in  them,  giving  a  good  coating.  Put  a  large  lump  of 
clarified  fat  or  lard  into  a  fryingpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  till  blue  smoke  rises,  then 
put  in  the  rounds  and  fry  them  till  lightly  browned.  Take  them  out  of  the  fat  with  a 
slice,  and  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of  kitchen  paper  to  drain  for  a  few  minutes.  Lift  off 
the  inner  round  of  bread  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  scoop  out  from  the  center  of  the 
large  round,  all  the  soft  bread.  Fill  the  hollows  with  the  fish  mixture,  and  put  the 
small  rounds  on  top.  Place  the  patties  on  a  hot  dish,  over  which  has  been  spread  a 
folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  with  a  few  neat  sprigs  of  fried 
parsley,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Patties   Financiere. 

Butter  twelve  fluted  deep  patty  pans,  line  them  with  short  paste,  then  with 
paper,  fill  them  with  flour  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done  remove  the 
paper  and  flour,  coat  them  inside  with  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat,  and  set  them  at  the 
entrance  of  the  oven  to  keep  warm.  Roll  out  some  puff  paste  and  cut  twelve  rounds 
out  of  it  the  same  size  as  the  inside  of  the  patty  ;  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  mark 
lines  across  the  top  with  a  sharp  pointed  knife,  and  bake  till  lightly  browned ;  pre- 
pare a  mixture  of  little  scallops  of  fat  livers  and  truffles,  some  cocks'  combs  and 
small  quenelles ;  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  reduced  brown  sauce  and  warm 
thoroughly,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Fill  the  patties  with  the  mixture,  previously  turn- 
ing them  out  of  the  pan ;  put  on  the  covers  of  puff  paste,  arrange  them  on  a  folded 
napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  hot  or  cold. 


i34  SIDE   DISHES. 

Fontange    Patties. 

Stir  up  with  four  ounces  of  flour  the  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs,  a  little  salt,  and 
a  teacupful  of  olive  oil  ;  mix  with  this  one  and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  beer  and  warm 
water  mixed  in  equal  quantities ;  put  a  cloth  over  the  basin,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm 
place  for  two  hours,  then  pour  the  batter  into  a  stewpan.  Warm  in  boiling  fat,  an 
iron  mould  made  for  this  purpose,  of  the  shape  of  a  little  timbale  ;  when  hot,  dip  it 
nearly,  but  not  quite  to  the  rim,  in  the  batter,  take  it  out  again  immediately,  plunge 
it  into  the  boiling  fat  and  leave  it  till  the  batter  is  cooked ;  then  remove  it  from  the 
mould  and  proceed  as  before  until  all  the  batter  is  cooked.  Prepare  a  salpicon  of 
poultry  meat,  pickled  tongues,  brains  and  mushrooms,  thicken  it  with  a  little  sauce, 
fill  the  batter  shells  with  it,  arrange  them  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Lent    Patties. 

Make  fifteen  small  puff  paste  patties,  as  for  Vol-au-Vent  Patties,  and  bake 
them.  When  done  take  them  off  the  baking-sheet,  empty  the  pans,  and  keep  the 
patties  warm.  Beat  fifteen  eggs  and  season  them  with  salt  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg. 
Peel  and  cut  into  small  dice  three  small  truffles,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small 
lump  of  butter,  and  warm  them.  Pour  the  beaten  eggs  in  with  the  truffles,  add  a 
little  more  butter  broken  in  small  pieces,  and  stir  over  a  slow  fire  till  thick.  Mix  a 
teacupful  of  bechamel  sauce  with  the  above  ingredients,  take  it  off  the  fire,  fill  the 
patties  with  the  mixture,  arrange  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper 
on  a  dish,  garnish  with  parsley  and  serve. 

Vol-au-Vent   Patties. 

Roll  out  a  piece  of  puff  paste  to  about  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness,  cut  out  some 
rounds  with  a  tin  cutter  about  two  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  then  take  a 
smaller  cutter,  about  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  and  cut  nearly,  but 
not  quite  through,  in  the  center  of  each  one  ;  put  them  on  a  baking-dish  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven.  The  paste  rises,  and  the  inside  becomes  a  lid  that  may  be  lifted 
out  with  the  point  of  a  knife.  Trim  off  the  surplus  paste  from  the  inside,  fill  them 
with  whatever  has  been  prepared  for  them,  put  the  lids  on  and  decorate  with  a  sprig 
of  parsley. 

Cheese   Salad. 

Put  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  into  a  basin,  and  rub  it  smooth  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salad  oil  ;  then  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  cayenne  and  one  of 
sugar,  and  made  mustard,  mixing  each  one  separately,  before  another  is  added,  and 
stirring  in  one-half  pound  of  grated  cheese.  The  cheese  used  for  this  purpose  should 
be  as  old  as  possible  without  being  high.  After  all  are  well  worked  together  add 


SIDE    DISHES.  135 

one  tablespoonful  of  onion  vinegar,  put  the   mixture  into  scallop  shells,  and  serve 
with  shredded  lettuce,  or  other  green  salad. 

Cucumber   Salad. 

Take  three  medium-sized  cucumbers,  lay  them  on  ice  until  thoroughly  chilled, 
then  pare,  taking  care  to  leave  no  trace  of  the  green  skin,  a  very  small  bit  of  which 
would  be  enough  to  spoil  the  salad.  Slice  the  cucumbers  very  thinly  and  arrange 
them  in  a  glass  dish  or  shallow  bowl;  mix  together  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  white 
pepper  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, and  sprinkle  this  over  and  among  them;  then  mix. 
one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  with  two  tablespoonfuls  ofjthe  best  salad  oil  and  pour  it 
over. 

Aberdeen  Sandwiches. 

Chop  one  ounce  of  cold  tongue  or  ham  and  two  ounces  of  cold  chicken,  put  the 
chopped  meat  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  teacupful  of  good  sauce  and  about  half 
that  quantity  of  curry  paste;  let  it  simmer  for  five  minutes,  stirring  it  constantly,  then 
put  it  into  a  bowl  and  leave  until  cool.  Cut  some  thin  slices  of  stale  bread,  stamp 
them  into  rounds  about  the  size  of  half  a  dollar  silver  piece,  and  fry  them  to  a  very 
light  brown  in  boiling  lard  or  oil.  Lay  them  on  paper  to  drain.  Then  put  a  thick 
layer  of  the  cooled  mixture  of  chopped  ham  and  chicken  between  two  fried  rounds 
of  bread,  arrange  them  nicely  on  a  dish,  bake  them  in  the  oven  for  four  or  five  min- 
utes and  serve  hot.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Adelaide  Sandwiches. 

Take  one-fourth  pound  of  cold  chicken  and  two  ounces  of  cold  ham  and  cut  them 
into  small  squares.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  paste  with  one-half  teacupful  of 
sauce  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  mix  into  it  the  ham  and  chicken; 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  let  cool;  cut  some  thin  slices  of  stale  bread,  stamp  them  into 
rounds  about  the  size  of  a  crown  piece,  and  fry  them  a  very  light  brown  in  boiling 
lard  or  clarified  butter.  Put  a  layer  of  the  mixture  of  chopped  meat  and  sauce  be- 
tween two  pieces  of  fried  bread.  Pound  some  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  butter 
(equal  quantities  of  each)  together  and  roll  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut. 
Place  one  of  these  balls  on  top  of  each  sandwich,  lay  them  on  a  baking  sheet  and 
place  them  in  a  quick  oven  for  five  minutes.  Serve  them  on  a  napkin. 

Anchovy   Sandwiches. 

Empty  a  bottle  of  anchovies  into  a  bowl  of  water,  and  wash  them  thoroughly, 
changing  the  water  frequently..  Put  them,  when  drained  and  boned,  into  a  mortar 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  butter,  and  pound  well  to  a  very  smooth  paste.  Spread 
this  over  thin  slices  of  bread,  put  two  of  those  together  to  form  the  sandwich,  and 
serve. 


136  SIDE   DISHES. 

Beef  Tongue  Sandwich. 

Chop  one-half  pound  of  cold  boiled  tongue,  put  it  into  a  mortar  with  the  yolks 
of  two  hard  boiled  eggs,  one  tablespoonful  of  made  mustard,  some  salt,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  pound  it  all  to  a  paste.  Dilute  the  paste  with  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread,  butter  them,  then 
spread  them  with  the  mixture,  and  press  them  together  in  pairs.  Cut  the  sandwiches 
in  halves,  put  them  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin  placed  on  a  dish, 
and  serve. 

Cheese  Sandwich. 

Grate  two  ounces  of  Roquefort,  or  Parmesan,  or  other  cheese,  and  work  it  well 
with  a  pat  of  butter.  Spread  this  on  some  thin  slices  of  bread,  put  another  thin  slice 
on  the  top  of  each,  press  them  gently  together,  cut  the  sandwiches  into  finger  lengths, 
and  arrange  them  neatly  on  a  folded  napkin,  or  a  fancy  dish-paper,  garnishing  here 
and  there  with  freshly  gathered  parsley.  Serve  the  sandwiches  with  salad. 

A  second  method  of  preparation  is  to  take  the  yolks  of  three  hard  boiled  eggs, 
and  with  one  ounce  of  butter  melted  over  the  fire  mix  and  rub  them  to  a  smooth 
paste;  grate  four  ounces  of  cheese  and  work  it  into  the  paste,  and  season  it  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  three  slices  of  thin  bread,  and  butter;  spread  each  slice 
with  one-third  of  this  paste,  and  fold  the  other  half  of  the  slice  over  it. 

Roquefort  Cheese  Sandwich. 

After  grating  two  ounces  of  Roquefort  cheese,  work  it  into  a  paste  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  using  for  the  purpose  a  knife,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
When  it  is  quite  smooth,  spread  the  paste  on  some  slices  of  bread,  cover  with  another 
one,  press  the  two  carefully  together  and  cut  into  fingers.  If  desired,  chopped 
parsley,  or  chives,  or  both,  may  be  mixed  with  the  cheese.  It  may  also  be  spread 
on  crackers  in  place  of  bread.  It  is  generally  served  as  a  course  after  salad. 

Chicken  and  Ham  Sandwiches. 

Remove  the  crusts  from  thin  slices  of  bread  and  spread  over  thinly  with  butter. 
Lay  some  slices  of  cold  chicken  on  the  buttered  sides  of  the  bread,  and  over  these 
very  thin  slices  of  ham,  adding  a  little  salt  and  mustard  to  taste.  Lay  a  slice  of 
bread,  with  the  buttered  side  downwards,  over  each,  press  them  gently  together,  trim 
and  cut  the  sandwiches  into  oblong  pieces.  Garnish  with  fresh  parsley  and  serve  on 
a  napkin  spread  on  a  dish. 

Goose  Sandwiches. 

These  are  made  of  the  smoked  breasts  of  geese  cut  into  very  fine  slices.  Cut 
some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  lay  the  slices  of  goose  on  them  with  a  few  thin 


SIDE    DISHES.  137 

slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  squeeze  over  a  little  lemon  juice,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  cover  them  with  slices  of  bread  and  butter.  Cut  the  sandwiches  into 
ringers,  arrange  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Sandwiches  of  Goose's  Fat  Liver. 

Take  a  square  loaf  of  bread,  remove  all  the  crust,  cut  the  crumb  into  slices 
about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  butter  them  well  and  cover  half  of  them  with  potted 
fat  liver ;  place  the  other  half  on  top  of  them  with  the  butter  inside,  press  slightly 
together  and  cut  them  up  into  fingers  two  and  one-half  fingers  long  by  one  and  one- 
half  inches  wide. 

Pickle    Sandwiches. 

Cut  some  pickles  in  very  thin  slices  lengthwise,  lay  them  on  slices  of  bread,  then 
put  a  thin  slice  of  thin  roasted  veal  or  pork  on  the  top  of  that ;  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  mustard,  and  cover  with  another  slice  of  bread.  Cut  the  sandwiches  into 
finger  lengths,  arrange  them  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin  spread 
over  a  dish,  garnish  with  neat  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  serve. 

Sardine  Sandwiches. 

Drain  the  oil  from  five  or  six  sardines,  skin  and  "bone  them,  and  cut  off  their  tails. 
Place  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  anchovy  that  has  been  skinned  and  boned,  add  one 
ounce  of  butter  and  a  small  quantity  each  of  salt,  pepper,  mace,  and  cayenne,  and 
pound  until  smooth.  Cut  some  rather  thin  slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter,  spread 
the  mixture  on  them,  and  fold  them  over.  Cut  the  sandwiches  into  finger  lengths  or 
quarters,  arrange  them  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin  or  an 
ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  tastefully  with  sprigs  of  well  washed  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Sausage  Sandwiches,  German. 

Pare  some  slices  of  bread  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  some  slices  of 
German  sausage  and  remove  the  skin.  Butter  the  bread,  cover  a  slice  of  bread  and 
butter  with  the  slices  of  sausage,  turn  another  slice  buttered  side  downwards  over,  and 
press  them  together.  When  all  the  sandwiches  are  made,  pile  evenly  one  on  top  of 
another  as  many  as  can  easily  be  cut  through,  trim  the  edges  evenly,  cutting  off  the 
crusts,  and  then  cut  the  sandwiches  into  pieces  of  a  convenient  size.  Lay  a  napkin 
on  a  dish  and  pile  the  sandwiches  nicely  on  it. 


Savory  Sandwiches. 


Take  some  cold  cooked  ham,  or  corned  beef  or  tongue,  having  one-fourth  of  its 
quantity  fat;  chop  it  up  very  finely,  and  mix  with  it  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  sufficient  cold  water  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Then  add  one-half 


138  SIDE    DISHES. 

teacupful  of  butter  worked  to  a  cream.  Take  some  very  thin  slices  of  stale  bread, 
spread  them  over  with  the  paste,  put  two  slices  together,  having  the  paste  inside,  cut 
into  shapes  or  rectangular  pieces,  and  serve. 

Shrimp  Sandwiches. 

Pick  one-half  pint  of  shrimps,  put  them  into  a  mortar  with  two  or  three  ounces 
of  butter,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  pound  them  to  a  paste, 
moisten  it  with  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Cut  some  rather  thin  slices  of  bread 
and  butter,  spread  half  of  them  with  the  paste,  fold  the  remaining  half  over  these,  and 
press  them  lightly  together.  Cut  the  sandwiches  into  fingers  or  quarters,  arrange 
them  on  a  folded  napkin,  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Turkey  Sandwich. 

Chop  finely  the  dark  meat  of  a  cold  roast  turkey,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  celery,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot;  then  add  a  soft  boiled  egg  and  leave  it  until  cold. 
Cut  some  slices  of  bread  about  one-half  inch  in  thickness,  toast  them  on  both  sides, 
then  split  them  in  two  and  butter  them  inside.  Spread  a  layer  of  the  turkey  mixture 
over  one  of  them,  lay  the  other  slice  over  and  press  them  gently  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife.  Cut  the  sandwiches  into  halves  or  quarters,  place  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  a 
fancy  dish-paper  that  has  been  spread  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Veal  Sandwiches. 

Chop  some  cold  roast  veal  and  place  in  a  mortar  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small 
quantity  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Slice  some  hard-boiled  eggs,  remove  the  yolks,  being 
careful  not  to  break  the  rings  of  white,  place  them  in  the  mortar  with  the  veal  and 
pound  well.  Spread  a  small  quantity  of  mixed  mustard  over  some  slices  of  bread, 
then  lay  the  white  rings  of  egg  on  them,  and  fill  each  ring  with  the  pounded  mixture, 
cover  them  with  slices  of  bread  and  press  them  lightly  together.  Cut  the  sand- 
wiches into  halves,  and  serve  them. 

Welsh   Rabbit  Sandwiches. 

Put  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  mild  American  cheese  into  a  mortar  with  two  ounces 
of  butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  pound  well  together,  and  dilute  with  a  small 
quantity  of  tarragon  vinegar.  After  spreading  the  mixture  between  slices  of  bread  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 

Sardines  in  Eggs. 

Skin  and  bone  ten  or  a  dozen  sardines  and  place  them  in  a  mortar,  remove  the 
shells  from  an  equal  number  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  them  in  pieces  crosswise,  put 


SIDE    DISHES.  139 

the  yolks  in  the  mortar  with  the  sardines,  adding  at  the  same  time  a  little  chopped 
parsley,  salt,  pepper  and  one-tablespoonful  of  butter;  pound  all  together,  fill  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  with  the  above  mixture,  stick  them  together  like  whole  eggs, 
arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  watercress  between  them  and  serve. 

Beef  Marrow  on  Toast. 

Take  some  large  pieces  of  marrow  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  well  salted 
boiling  water,  and  let  them  remain  for  one  minute,  then  drain  off  the  water  through 
a  very  fine  sieve.  Take  out  the  marrow,  put  it  on  some  pieces  of  toasted  bread,  place 
them  in  the  oven,  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Sprinkle  over  them  chopped  parsley, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Anchovy   Toast. 


Thoroughly  cleanse  and  fillet  the  number  of  anchovies  to  be  used,  chop  them 
small,  or  crush  them  with  a  silver  knife.  Put  this  into  a  small  stewpan  with  some 
salad  oil,  warm  slightly,  and  set  it  on  one  side.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread,  nearly  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  trim  to  an  even  oblong  shape;  toast  them  on  both  sides  on  a  grid- 
iron, basting  with  a  brush  dipped  in  oil.  Spread  the  anchovy  over,  and  sprinkle  on 
all  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Push  the  gridiron  with  the  dressed  slices  on  it  into  a 
sharp  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  hot. 


Beef  Tongue  Toast. 


Take  the  remains  of  a  cold  cooked  tongue,  grate  it  as  finely  as  possible,  add  a 
little  finely  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  form  the  mixture  into  a 
thin  paste  with  the  yolks  of  eggs.  Make  the  mixture  as  hot  as  possible  without 
boiling,  turn  it  out  on  to  slices  of  thin  toast,  dust  over  with  breadcrumbs,  brown  the 
surface  with  a  salamander,  or  in  front  of  the  fire,  and  serve. 


Egg  and  Anchovy  Toast. 


Remove  the  shell  from  four  cold  hard  boiled  eggs  and  chop  them;  put  a  sauce- 
pan over  the  fire  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  cornmeal  blended 
smooth  in  a  little  milk,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  anchovy  sauce  and  vinegar,  a  season- 
ing of  pepper  and  salt,  and  one  pint  of  milk;  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  and  then 
put  in  the  chopped  eggs,  stirring  them  well  in.  Toast  three  rounds  of  bread,  butter, 
and  spread  the  mixture  over,  and  serve  hot. 


Ham  and  Egg  Toasts. 


Chop  finely  some  cold  cooked  ham,  toast  some  slices  of  bread  and  butter  them. 
Spread  the  ham  on  the  toast,  and  put  them  in  the  oven  for  three  or  four  minutes. 


i4o  SIDE    DISHES. 

Beat  six  eggs  in  a  teacupful  of  milk,  and  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  pour  in  the  beaten  eggs,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
thick,  but  do  not  let  boil.  Arrange  the  ham  on  a  dish,  the  toast  also,  pour  the  eggs 
over,  and  serve. 

Lobster  Toast. 

Pick  all  the  meat  from  the  shell  of  a  large  lobster  and  chop  it  fine  ;  work  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  into  one  ounce  of  butter,  then  mix  with  it  the 
chopped  lobster,  adding  a  boned,  washed  and  chopped  anchovy,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Work  all  together  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  then  mix  in  lightly 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  washed  and  chopped  watercress.  Cut  some  slices 
of  bread  about  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness,  trim  off  all  the  crusts  and  toast  them ; 
cut  them  into  squares,  butter  over  and  spread  some  of  the  lobster  mixture  on  each 
piece.  Strew  finely  grated  breadcrumbs  over,  and  place  them  in  a  brisk  oven  for 
a  few  minutes.  Spread  a  folded  napkin,  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  over  a  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  pieces  of  toast  nicely  on  it,  garnish  with  a  border  of  well-washed 
watercress,  and  serve. 

Salmon  Toast. 

Cut  as  many  slices  of  bread  as  are  required,  trim  off  the  crusts,  and  toast  them 
to  a  delicate  brown ;  butte-r  them,  and  lay  on  each  slice  a  very  thin  piece  of  smoked 
salmon ;  sprinkle  over  with  pepper,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  place 
them  in  a  brisk  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  When  very  hot,  arrange  the  pieces  of  toast 
on  a  hot  dish,  on  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Sardine   Toast. 

Scrape  the  skin  off  some  sardines,  split  them  in  halves,  lengthwise  and  remove 
the  bones.  Lay  the  sardines  on  a  plate,  pour  some  of  their  oil  over  them,  cover  with 
another  plate  and  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  until  heated  all  through.  Cut  the 
required  number  of  slices  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick  off  a  stale  square  loaf, 
toast  them  to  a  delicate  brown  on  both  sides  and  butter  them.  Cut  the  toast  into 
fingers  and  lay  a  sardine  on  each ;  dust  them  over  lightly  with  salt  and  a  very  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  squeeze  some  lemon  juice  over  them.  Spread  a 
folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  over  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  fingers  of 
toast  neatly  on  it,  garnish  with  a  border  of  nicely  picked  and  washed  watercress,  and 
serve.  The  above  makes  a  very  tasty  breakfast  dish  and  is  very  quickly  prepared. 

Sardines  and  Anchovy  Toast. 

Clean  well  three  anchovies,  put  them  into  a  mortar  with  one  teaspoonful  of  an- 
chovy paste,  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  cayenne  pepper  and  grated  nut- 
meg and  pound  them  to  a  smooth  paste,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Toast 


SIDE    DISHES.  141 

some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  cut  them  into  pieces  about  the  breadth  and  length  of  a 
sardine.  Wash  some  sardines  in  hot  water,  wipe  them  dry,  divide  into  fillets  by 
splitting  them  down  the  back  and  take  the  bone  out.  Spread  the  pounded  anchovy 
on  the  toast  and  lay  a  filleted  sardine  on  top  of  each  piece.  Pile  the  pieces  of  toast 
on  a  dish  in  couples,  crossing  one  another  like  lattice  work  and  garnish  the  dish  with 
chopped  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Shrimp   Toast. 

Fry  some  slices  of  crumb  of  bread  in  butter,  then  cut  them  into  rounds  with  a 
plain  two-inch  cutter.  When  cold,  mask  the  fried  rounds  with  shrimp  butter,  arrange 
a  star  of  trimmed  shrimp's  tails  on  the  top  of  each  and  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  pars- 
ley in  the  center.  Arrange  the  toasts  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded 
napkin. 


Beef 

Beef  a  la  Mode. 

Cut  off  the  under  part  of  a  round  of  beef,  wipe  and  trim  off  the  edges,  place  in 
a  deep  earthen  dish  and  pour  over  it  spiced  vinegar.  This  spiced  vinegar  may  be 
made  as  follows :  Boil  for  five  minutes  a  breakfast  cupful  of  vinegar,  with  an  onion 
chopped  fine,  a  little  salt,  mustard,  pepper,  cloves,  and  allspice.  Let  the  meat  remain 
in  this  mixture  for  several  hours,  stirring  it  frequently ;  then  dress  it  with  ten  or 
twelve  strips  of  salt  pork  cut  a  third  of  an  inch  square,  and  as  long  as  the  meat  is 
thick  insert  these  strips  with  a  large  larding-needle,  or  bore  a  hole  in  the  meat  with  a 
carving  steel ;  or,  if  desired,  larger  incisions  may  be  made  and  stuffed  with  bread- 
crumbs highly  seasoned,  with  salt,  pepper,  onions,  thyme,  marjoram,  etc.,  moistened 
with  hot  water,  a  little  butter  and  a  well  beaten  egg.  Bind  the  beef  into  shape  with 
a  narrow  strip  of  cotton  cloth,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  retain  the  stuffing,  and  dredge 
with  flour,  then  cut  up  two  onions,  half  a  carrot  and  half  a  turnip,  and  fry  in  fat  drip- 
pings until  brown,  and  place  in  a  stewpan.  Brown  the  meat  all  over  in  the  same  fat, 
and  place  on  a  trivet  in  the  pan ;  half  cover  with  boiling  water,  adding  a  little  mixed 
herbs  tied  in  a  muslin  bag ;  cover  loosely  and  simmer  for  four  hours  or  until  quite 
tender.  Take  out  carefully  and  remove  the  strings,  and  put  on  a  large  dish,  Skim 
off  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  add  more  seasoning,  and  thicken  with  wetted  flour  worked 
smooth,  boil  for  eight  or  ten  minutes  and  strain  over  the  meat.  Decorate  with  potato 
balls  and  small  onions. 

Boiled   Beef. 

Place  a  brisket  or  round  of  beef  in  a  saucepan,  with  some  small  pieces  of  trim- 
mings of  beef,  veal,  lamb  or  fowl  giblets,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  pour  over  enough 
water  to  cover,  boiling  them  until  nearly  done.  Then  add  an  onion,  carrots  cut  in 
slices,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  teacupful  each  of  browned  flour  and  butter  to  thicken, 
cover  the  saucepan  and  cook  for  about  twenty  minutes  longer.  When  the  meat  is 
done,  remove  it  and  place  upon  a  dish ;  strain  the  liquor,  adding  a  wineglassful  of 
mushroom  catsup  or  white  wine  to  it,  and  pour  over  the  meat  and  serve. 

Braised    Beef. 

Place  a  layer  of  sliced  onions  in  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  over  which  arrange  a 
layer  of  thick  slices  of  bacon,  and  put  a  piece  of  round  of  beef  on  the  bacon,  after 
tying  up  the  beef  to  keep  it  in  shape.  Set  on  the  fire  for  twenty  minutes,  turning  it 
once  or  twice,  then  add  a  tumblerful  of  wine,  some  carrots  and  onions  cut  in  slices, 

142 


BEEF.  143 

a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  add  a  few  cloves.  Fill  the 
pan  with  sufficient  stock  to  cover  the  beef,  placing  the  lid  on  the  pan,  and  braise  it 
from  four  to  five  hours,  with  a  few  hot  cinders  on  the  lid,  or  else  in  the  oven.  Strain 
free  from  all  fat,  and  serve  with  the  meat  gravy. 

Braised   Beef  a  la   Mode. 

Lard  a  piece  of  beef  with  salt  pork,  let  it  marinade  for  twelve  hours  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  bay  leaves  and 
half  a  dozen  parsley  roots.  Then  place  the  meat  in  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of 
butter,  and  brown  both  sides  well  for  ten  minutes,  then  remove  and  place  it  on  a 
dish.  Add  to  the  gravy  a  little  flour,  stirring  it  well  and  moisten  with  a  quart  of 
broth,  mixing  it  slowly  while  the  sauce  is  boiling ;  then  replace  the  beef  in  the  sauce- 
pan with  two  sliced  carrots,  and  a  dozen  small  onions  glazed,  and  cook  for  an  hour, 
adding  a  strong  garnished  bouquet,  a  wineglassful  of  claret  wine,  and  a  small  piece 
of  crushed  garlic,  also  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  After  skimming  off  the  fat  and 
straining,  serve  on  a  hot  dish,  arranging  the  carrots  and  onions  in  clusters  around  the 
dish. 

Braised   Beef,  Providence  Style. 

Braise  the  beef  as  indicated  for  braised  beef,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  cooked 
cauliflower,  half  a  breakfast  cupful  of  flageolet  beans,  and  a  cupful  of  carrots,  cut 
with  a  vegetable  scoop  shortly  before  serving.  Place  the  vegetables  in  a  pan  with 
the  skimmed  gravy  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Serve  the  beef  on  a  hot  dish,  the 
vegetables  arranged  in  heaps  around  it,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the  beef. 

Braised  Rib  of  Beef. 

Select  a  chuck-rib  of  beef,  cut  very  short,  cut  off  the  chine  bone,  leaving  only 
the  rib,  then  tie  with  a  string  and  place  in  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  contain  it. 
Add  a  couple  of  pints  of  broth,  a  gill  of  brandy,  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  an  onion,  a 
clove,  some  sweet  herbs  and  a  carrot.  Cover  the  pan  and  boil  slowly  for  two  hours. 
At  the  expiration  of  that  time,  if  tender,  place  on  a  dish,  and  keep  it  warm  while 
preparing  the  gravy,  which  is  made  as  follows  :  Strain  the  stock  in  which  the  meat 
has  been  cooked,  and  take  off  all  fat,  reduce  it  one-half  over  the  fire,  and  pour  over 
the  meat,  garnishing  with  macaroni,  noodles  or  vegetables,  arranged  around  the  dish 
in  small  heaps. 

Chateaubriand  of  Beef. 

Cut  the  desired  number  of  thick  slices  from  a  tenderloin  of  beef,  and  slit  each 
one  nearly  in  halves ;  place  a  teaspoonful  of  beef  marrow  seasoned  with  salt  and 
cayenne  and  a  few  strips  of  onion  in  this  cavity,  pressing  the  sides  together,  and 
brush  over  with  warm  butter  or  oil ;  place  on  a  warm  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  for 


i44  BEEF. 

ten  minutes.  Remove,  dish  and  squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  over  them,  serving  as 
hot  as  possible.  Care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  marrow  from  oozing  out  dui- 
ing  the  process  of  cooking. 

Corned  Beef,  American  Style. 

Soak  the  desired  quantity  of  corned  beef,  and  put  on  to  boil  in  fresh  cold 
water ;  skim  well  and  simmer  until  done  and  tender.  Allow  it  to  become  cool  in 
the  liquor  in  which  it  has  been  cooked,  and  then  before  quite  cold  put  in  a  flat  hol- 
low dish  and  cover  with  a  board,  pressing  it  with  a  weight.  Remove  all  the  fat  from 
the  meat  liquor  and  save  it,  but  take  care  that  it  is  not  allowed  to  stand  in  an  iron 
vessel.  Have  ready  boiled  two  or  three  beets,  small  carrots,  a  small  cabbage,  some 
turnip  and  potatoes,  and  a  small  squash  ;  wash  them  well  and  scrape  the  carrots,  cut 
the  cabbage  into  quarters,  pare  the  turnips  and  squash,  and  cut  into  slices,  and  pare 
the  potatoes.  Place  the  meat  liquor  on  to  boil  about  two  hours  before  required,  and 
when  it  boils  put  in  the  carrots,  cabbage  and  turnips,  and  half  an  hour  before  dinner 
add  the  squash  and  potatoes.  When  tender,  take  up  the  vegetables  carefully,  and 
drain  on  a  colander,  slicing  the  carrots.  Place  the  cold  meat  in  the  center  of  a  large 
dish,  and  serve  the  carrots,  potatoes  and  turnips  around  the  edge,  with  the  squash, 
cabbage  and  beets  in  separate  dishes. 

Boiled   Corned   Beef  and  Spinach. 

Use  sufficient  of  the  rump  or  brisket  of  corned  beef,  place  in  a  saucepan  and 
cover  with  fresh  water ;  boil  briskly  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  serving  with  boiled 
spinach. 

Hashed  Corned  Beef. 

Slice  a  couple  of  onions  and  brown  well  on  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter, 
and  add  some  well  cooked  corned  beef  chopped  fine,  and  four  chopped  potatoes. 
Moisten  with  a  teacupful  each  of  Spanish  sauce  and  broth,  seasoning  with  pepper  and 
nutmeg.  Cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  well  all  the  time.  Serve  in  a  dish  with 
poached  eggs  laid  on  top,  sprinkling  over  with  chopped  fried  parsley. 


Beef  Croquettes. 


Chop  some  cold  beef,  put  a  pint  of  poulette  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  reduce  it  to  one- 
half  its  amount,  and  thicken  with  the  yolks  of  some  eggs;  put  the  chopped  beef  in 
the  sauce,  adding  a  little  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  mixing  well  together,  and 
spread  out  on  a  dish  to  a  thickness  of  an  inch  and  a  half.  Let  it  get  firm  and  cold, 
and  divide  into  sixteen  equal  parts.  Strew  a  board  with  breadcrumbs  evenly,  but 
very  thin,  and  put  the  sixteen  parts  of  mince  on  it,  leaving  a  space  of  two  inches 
between  each;  then  cover  them  with  a  similar  thickness  of  breadcrumbs,  and  roll 
each  part  into  the  shape  of  a  cork,  making  them  as  near  an  equal  size  as  possible. 


BEEF.  145 

Beat  three  whites  of  egg  for  a  minute,  so  as  to  mix,  but  not  froth  them,  and  add  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  oil,  and  the  same  quantity  of  water.  Dip 
the  croquettes  into  this  mixture,  roll  them  in  the  breadcrumbs,  and  set  on  a  plate. 
Twenty  minutes  before  they  are  to  be  served  have  ready  some  hot  fat,  arrange 
the  croquettes  in  a  fry  ing-basket,  and  put  them  in  to  fry,  and  when  nearly  done 
move  them  gently  to  insure  their  becoming  of  an  even  color,  lift  them  out 
when  a  light  brown  color  and  crisp.  Sprinkle  with  salt,  dish,  and  serve  with  a 
garnish  of  parsley. 

Beef  Cutlets. 

Trim  all  fat  and  skin  from  some  slices  of  beef  and  shape  them  like  cutlets, 
then  salt  and  pepper  them.  Place  a  small  lump  of  butter  in  a  sautepan,  and  when 
melted  fry  the  cutlets  on  both  sides  till  done.  Sprinkle  over  them  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  place  on  a  dish,  and  pour  over  them  a  thick  brown  gravy. 

Fricadelles. 

Mince  some  cold-cooked  beef  and  add  a  slice  or  two  of  onion  finely  chopped, 
and  if  the  meat  is  very  lean  a  slice  or  two  of  fat  pork  maybe  added;  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  sage,  thyme,  a  little  lemon  juice  and  parsley,  using  a  little  of  each,  and  add  a 
quarter  as  much  breadcrumbs  or  boiled  rice  as  there  is  meat;  add  one  beaten  egg 
with  sufficient  water  or  stock  to  form  a  paste.  Make  this  into  balls  or  egg  shapes, 
put  them  into  a  frying  pan  with  butter  or  dripping  and  fry  to  a  brown  color,  or  they 
may  be  dipped  in  breadcrumbs,  brushed  over  with  egg,  then  dipped  in  crumbs  again 
and  fried  in  boiling  fat.  When  done  drain  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin  spread  over 
a  dish. 

Fricandeau   of  Beef. 

Select  a  good  piece  of  beef,  lard  it  well  with  bacon  seasoned  with  pepper,  pow- 
dered cloves,  mace  and  allspice.  Place  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  broth  or  beef- 
gravy,  a  wineglassful  of  sherry  and  a  bundle  of  parsley  and  sweet  herbs,  a  clove  of 
garlic  and  a  shallot  or  two.  When  tender  cover  the  meat  closely,  skim  the  sauce  and 
strain  it  and  boil  until  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Then  mask  the  larded  side  with  the  glaze 
and  serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Grenadines   of  Beef. 

Cut  up  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  undercut  of  the  rump  of  beef  into  cutlets  a 
third  of  an  inch  thick,  lard  them  with  thin  strips  of  bacon,  and  place  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  lightly  sprinkling  the  upper  side  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Cook  very  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  without  approaching  frying,  and  then  turn  on 
the  other  side  and  pepper  and  salt  the  upper,  cooking  for  fifteen  minutes  longer. 
Have  in  readiness  half  a  pint  of  good  brown  gravy  thickened  with  a  little  flour,  coat 


146  BEEF. 

the  grenadines  with  this,  place  on  the  dish  for  serving,  pour  the  gravy  over  and  gar- 
nish with  sprigs  of  cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts. 

Hashed   Beef. 

Cold  roast  beef,  preferably  sirloin,  should  be  used  for  this  dish  and  should  be 
sliced  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  Place  in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  stock,  adding  one 
or  two  minced  onions  and  a  turnip  to  every  pound  of  meat  required.  Let  it  heat 
slowly  and  simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Thicken  with  flour  stirred  in 
smoothly,  adding  some  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  done  place  on  a  dish  and  serve 
with  some  red  currant  jelly.  A  wineglassful  of  claret  and  a  little  sugar  may  be  added 
to  the  gravy,  if  desired;  garnish  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread. 

Bullock's   Heart. 

In  the  opinion  of  most  professional  cooks  the  flesh  of  the  heart  is  too  coarse  and 
greasy  to  be  of  any  value  to  serve  as  a  separate  dish.  This  would  appear  to  be  some- 
what of  an  error  of  judgment,  for  prepared  as  follows  ox-heart  is  not  only  tender  but 
delicious  eating.  It  should  be  served  at  all  times  on  very  hot  plates — hot-water 
plates,  if  possible,  or  dinner  plates  set  upon  soup  plates  containing  hot  water.  The 
flesh  of  a  cold  bullock's  heart  is  sometimes  used  either  to  increase  the  bulk  of  jugged 
hare  or  ae-  a  substitute  for  the  hare  itself. 

Roasted   Bullock's   Heart. 

Put  a  heart  in  a  basin  of  warm  water  and  let  it  soak  for  an  hour  to  take  out  all 
the  blood.  Take  it  out,  wipe  dry  with  a  cloth,  stuff  it  with  some  highly  seasoned 
forcemeat,  tie  round  a  piece  of  well-buttered  paper,  pass  a  spit  through  it  and  place  it 
in  front  of  a  clear  fire  to  roast,  basting  frequently  with  butter.  When  done  (it  will 
take  about  two  hours),  remove  the  paper,  put  it  on  a  dish,  pour  over  piquant  sauce 
or  a  little  rich  gravy. 

Stewed   Bullock's   Heart. 

Put  a  bullock's  heart  in  a  basin  of  water,  wash  it  well  and  let  it  soak  to  clean  out 
the  blood.  Take  it  out,  dry  on  a  cloth,  cut  in  halves,  rub  well  over  with  flour,  put 
them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter  and  fry  to  a  brown  color.  Put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  four  or  five  onions  cut  in  slices  and  fried,  sprinkle 
over  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  in  sufficient  water  to  cover.  Place  the  pan  on 
the  fire  and  cook  slowly  for  about  three  hours,  then  remove,  skim  the  fat  from  the 
liquor,  reduce  it,  thicken  and  add  one  wineglassful  of  claret  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
moist  sugar.  Place  the  heart  again  in  the  saucepan,  heat  it  up,  put  it  on  a  dish,  pour 
over  the  gravy  and  serve. 


BEEF.  147 

Khulash. 

This  dish  is  greatly  esteemed  in  Germany,  and  is  prepared  as  follows : 
Cut  about  two  pounds  of  the  head  and  fillet  of  beef  into  small  squares.  Cut  up 
an  onion  into  small  pieces  and  fry  it  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter,  but  not  long  enough 
to  allow  it  to  take  color ;  add  the  pieces  of  meat  and  fry  them  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes, add  a  little  salt  or  cayenne  and  then  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and 
cover  the  lid  with  hot  ashes.  Let  it  remain  for  forty-five  minutes  when  the  moisture 
will  all  have  evaporated,  pour  over  a  little  gravy  and  continue  to  cook  for  an  hour 
and  a  half.  Dust  over  a  little  more  cayenne,  pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
brown  sauce  and  cook  for  another  ten  minutes  or  so.  Cut  some  potatoes  in  small 
dice  or  squares,  blanch  in  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes,  roll  them  well  in  sauce,  allow 
them  to  remain  for  a  few  minutes  and  serve. 

Beef  Kidneys. 

The  size  of  these  and  their  somewhat  coarse  nature,  places  them  quite  outside  the 
usual  culinary  preparations  prescribed  for  the  smaller  kidneys,  such  as  sheep's,  lamb's, 
etc.,  nevertheless  modern  artistic  cooks  have  found  several  effective  modes  of  cook- 
ing them. 

Fried   Beef  Kidneys. 

Cut  two  kidneys  in  slices  and  soak  in  warm  water  for  two  and  one-half  hours, 
changing  the  water  once  or  twice  so  as  to  cleanse  them  thoroughly;  take  the  slices 
out,  dust  them  over  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  three 
ounces  of  butter  and  fry  to  a  light  brown;  place  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  mix  one 
tablespoonful  of  piquant  sauce  in  one-half  pint  of  gravy,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  moist 
sugar,  pour  it  in  the  center  of  the  circle,  and  serve.  As  a  rule  beef  kidneys  are  coarse, 
but  cooked  as  above  they  are  tender  and  luscious. 

Fried   Beef  Kidneys  with   Champagne. 

Select  some  kidneys  that  are  of  a  good  color,  remove  a  little  of  the  fat,  mince 
them,  mix  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  shallots,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Place  this  in  a  fryingpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  done  dust  over  with  flour, 
add  a  wineglassful  of  champagne  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce, 
and  serve. 

Beef  Kidney  Rissoles. 

Cut  a  beef  kidney  into  even  slices  and  shape  them  into  rounds,  also  the  same 
quantity  of  bacon  or  ham  cut  into  smaller  rounds.  Place  the  slices  of  bacon  and  ham 
over  the  kidney,  then  hard  boiled  eggs  in  slices  over  them,  and  fasten  the  slices 
together  with  a  little  warmed  butter  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Sprinkle  over 


148  BEEF. 

with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  them  well  with  breadcrumbs,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  little  butter,  and  fry  for  half  an  hour.     Serve  on  a  dish  with  brown  gravy. 

Stewed   Beef  Kidneys. 

Stew  some  beef  kidneys  in  a  little  salted  water  until  done,  then  put  them  on  a 
dish  and  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  small  quantity  of  flour  to  the  liquor  to 
thicken  it  and  a  little  burnt  sugar  to  color  it,  pour  it  over  the  kidneys  and  serve  hot. 

Boiled   Beef  Liver  and   Rice. 

Soak  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  liver  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour  to  remove 
the  blood,  boil  it  slowly  in  three  pints  of  water  together  with  one-half  pound  of  rice, 
add  an  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  when  the  liver  and  rice  are  nearly  cooked  add 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  slice  of  bacon  cut  in 
pieces.  Remove  the  liver,  cut  it  in  slices  and  return  them  to  the  stew  till  all  are  suf- 
ficiently done.  Serve  hot. 

Macedoine   of  Beef. 

The  desired  quantity  of  rump  steak  is  cut  into  slices  half  an  inch  in  thickness 
and  formed  into  the  shape  of  cutlets,  three  inches  by  two  inches,  flat;  trim  all  to  the 
same  size  and  lard  thickly  on  one  side  with  fine  lardoons  of  bacon  fat.  Lay  out, 
larded  side  uppermost,  in  a  flat  pan  and  nearly  cover  with  richly  flavored  stock;  cover 
the  pan  with  a  lid  and  braise  in  an  oven  for  an  hour.  Remove  the  lid,  baste  the 
slices  with  gravy  and  let  them  remain  uncovered  in  the  oven  until  the  larding  has 
taken  color;  they  are  then  ready  to  dish.  Use  equal  amounts  of  sliced  carrots,  tur- 
nips, cutting  into  fancy  shapes;  green  peas,  string  beans,  asparagus  tops  and  small 
sprigs  of  cauliflowers;  boil  all  in  salted  water  until  quite  tender.  Melt  in  a  saucepan 
a  lump  of  butter,  add  a  little  flour  and  stir  in  enough  milk  to  make  a  sauce,  adding 
pepper,  salt  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Put  into  this  sauce  all  the  vegetables,  of 
which  there  should  be  sufficient  quantity  to  make  them  adhere  together,  and  toss 
them  gently  in  it  until  quite  hot.  Pile  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  and  place  the  slices 
around  them  in  a  circle.  Skin  off  all  fat  from  the  gravy,  pour  it  around  the  dish  but 
not  over  the  slices,  and  serve. 

Beef  Marrow. 

The  fatty  contents  of  the  long  bones  of  the  ox  are  esteemed  a  great  delicacy. 
At  one  time  it  was  considered  quite  the  fashion  to  serve  marrow-bones  at  table  as  a 
sort  of  luxurious  supper  dish;  they  were  then  dressed  as  follows: 

Marrow   Bones. 

Take  the  bones  from  two  legs  of  beef  and  saw  them  into  pieces  about  four  inches 
long.  Scrape  them  well  to  clean  them  and  put  them  in  cold  water  to  soak.  Place 


BEEF.  149 

them  in  a  saucepan  side  by  side,  not  standing  up,  cover  with  good  stock,  boil  up 
•quickly  and  then  remove  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  cook  slowly  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Take  out  the  bones,  drain  them,  place  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  slices  of  hot  toast. 

Beef  Marrow   Fritters. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  marrow,  taken  from  the  largest  bones  of  the  animal  and 
kept  in  one  piece,  into  cold  water  and  let  it  soak.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  good 
broth,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  let  it  cool  in  its  liquor.  When  quite  cold  drain 
and  cut  it  into  two  dozen  slices;  cover  half  of  them  on  one  side  only  with  some  cooked 
fine  herbs,  and  over  that  again  put  a  layer  of  cooked  truffle  and  glaze  it  all  over  (both 
truffle  and  marrow)  with  a  paste  brush;  when  the  glaze  is  cold  take  the  pieces  of 
marrow  singly,  dip  them  into  frying  batter  and  fry  them;  when  the  batter  is  dry  and 
of  good  color  drain  the  fritters,  put  them  on  a  napkin  folded  on  a  dish,  arrange  them 
in  a  heap,  and  serve  them  with  a  garnish  of  fried  parsley. 

Minced   Beef. 

Cut  some  slices  of  cold  roast  beef  to  a  half  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  these  into 
strips  of  about  an  equal  width,  slicing  up  finely.  Place  in  a  stewpan  a  wineglassful 
of  port  wine,  a  shallot  chopped  fine,  the  shredded  rind  of  half  an  orange,  and  a 
little  grated  nutmeg  ;  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  allow  it  to  simmer 
for  four  or  five  minutes.  Then  add  a  little  brown  sauce ;  mix  the  beef  with  this 
preparation,  adding  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  boil  the  whole  again.  Place  in 
the  middle  of  a  dish,  place  a  few  raspings  of  bread  over  it,  place  some  three-cornered 
pieces  of  bread  fried  in  butter  around  it,  a  poached  egg  on  each,  with  scallops  of 
tongue  in  between,  then  serve. 

Minced   Beef,  Spanish   Style. 

Thin  slices  of  cold  meat  should  be  cut  into  strips  and  then  into  dice ;  place  in  a 
saucepan,  and  brown  in  oil ;  add  a  few  finely-chopped  shallots,  one  onion,  and  a 
green  pepper  cut  into  pieces.  After  becoming  well-browned,  about  five  minutes, 
put  in  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  a  little  salt  and  a  like  amount  of  pepper.  Cook 
again  for  fifteen  minutes,  serving  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  scattered 
over  it. 

Beef,  Neapolitan   Style. 

Procure  a  fresh  piece  of  silverside,  about  six  or  eight  pounds  in  weight,  and 
make  two  or  three  holes  in  it  with  a  carving  knife,  and  insert  in  each  a  strip  of  fat 
bacon,  rolled  in  powdered  sweet  herbs  and  pepper.  Tie  up  the  meat  with  tape  to 
keep  it  in  shape.  Then  mince  some  fat  bacon,  adding  a  clove  of  garlic,  an  onion, 
some  parsley,  thyme  and  marjoram  ;  when  well  mixed,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  the 


i5o  BEEF. 

meat  and  stew,  turning  the  meat  frequently  until  it  is  well-browned  on  all  sides  ; 
then  moisten  with  plenty  of  tomato  sauce  diluted  with  a  little  stock,  and  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Stew  the  meat  slowly  until  done,  then  remove  the  tape,  and  serve 
with  macaroni  around  the  dish,  dressed  as  follows  :  Boil  it  in  water,  and  when  soft, 
mix  it  with  some  of  the  meat,  strained  from  all  fat,  adding  plenty  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese.  The  macaroni  should  be  mixed  in  a  warmed  tureen,  but  not  over  the  fire. 

Boiled  Ox-Tails. 

Put  two  dozen  small  onions  into  a  saucepan  with  three  pints  of  water  and  boil 
for  about  twenty  minutes.  Cut  two  ox-tails  into  pieces,  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  large  lump  of  butter  and  a  large  onion;  brown,  then  pour  in  the  water  from 
the  boiled  onions,  adding  more  water  if  necessary  to  cover  them.  Add  of  each  two 
or  three  carrots  and  turnips  cut  in  small  pieces,  putting  in  the  carrots  about  twenty 
minutes  before  the  turnips.  Boil  slowly,  and  when  the  tails  and  vegetables  are  done 
take  them  out  and  keep  hot  on  a  dish.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  another  pan,  melt 
it,  and  stir  in  flour  enough  to  make  it  quite  stiff,  pour  in  the  strained  gravy  from  the 
tails,  adding  a  little  at  a  time,  and  stir  well  till  it  boils.  Place  the  pieces  of  tails  in 
the  center  of  the  dish,  arrange  the  vegetables  around  them,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and 
serve  with  the  boiled  onions  for  a  garnish. 

Braised  Ox-Tails  with  Chestnut  Puree. 

Cut  the  thickest  part  of  a  fresh  ox-tail  into  pieces  about  three  inches  long,  soak 
them  in  water  for  a  few  hours,  then  blanch  them.  Put  some  layers  of  fat  bacon  and 
some  sliced  carrots  and  onions  into  an  oblong  stewpan,  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs 
and  the  slices  of  tail.  Add  a  little  salt,  cover  them  with  white  wine  and  broth  mixed 
in  equal  quantities  and  put  on  the  top  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  or  some  pork  rind. 
When  boiling  move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  put  some  live  embers  on  the  lid 
and  braise  the  contents  for  five  or  six  hours,  adding  more  broth  to  keep  the  quantity. 

Broiled  Ox-Tails. 

Wash  the  tails  thoroughly  and  cut  the  thick  parts  into  joints,  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  and 
cover  with  common  stock.  When  the  liquor  comes  to  a  boil  move  to  the  side  of  the 
fire  and  cook  slowly  for  two  and  one-half  hours.  Then  remove  them  and  drain  well 
on  a  sieve,  brush  over  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  egg  and  cover 
thickly  with  finely  grated  breadcrumbs.  Place  them  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a 
brisk  fire,  turning  constantly.  When  ready  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried 
parsley  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  tartar  sauce. 


BEEF.  151 

Stewed  Ox-Tails. 

Divide  two  ox-tails  into  natural  sections,  blanch  them  for  twenty  minutes,  and 
then  put  them  into  a  basin  of  water  and  let  them  soak  for  an  hour;  then  drain  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  five  pints  of  vegetable  broth,  place  it  over  the  fire,  when  the 
liquor  boils  skim  it  and  add  one-half  pound  of  onions,  sliced,  and  one  pound  of  car- 
rots turned  into  cork  shapes,  three  or  four  cloves,  salt  and  pepper.  Remove  the  pan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  cook  slowly  for  three  or  four  hours,  or  until  the  meat  is 
tender.  Pour  the  contents  of  the  saucepan  into  a  colander  to  drain  into  another 
saucepan,  take  out  the  pieces  of  tail,  wipe  them  dry  on  a  cloth  and  put  them  into  a 
one-half  gallon  saucepan.  Take  the  carrots  out  of  the  colander  and  put  them  into 
another  saucepan,  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  liquor,  reduce  it  to  half  its  original  quan- 
tity, and  pour  half  of  it  in  the  saucepan  with  the  carrots  and  the  other  half  into  the 
saucepan  with  the  pieces  of  tail.  Warm  both  the  carrots  and  pieces  of  tail,  arrange 
the  latter  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  the  former  and  ten  or  twelve  good-sized  glazed 
onions,  pour  the  gravy  over  all,  and  serve. 

Blanquette  of  Beef  Palates  with  Truffles. 

Rub  some  beef  palates  over  with  salt,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  slice  of 
lemon,  a  small  lump  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  water  enough  to  cover,  and 
stew  them.  Cut  some  truffles  into  small  pieces,  season  with  salt,  put  them  into  a 
fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  lightly  over  a  brisk  fire  till  cooked.  Put 
the  truffles  into  a  sauce  blanquette,  give  them  one  boil  up,  move  the  sauce  to  the  side 
of  the  fire  and  thicken  with  a  liaison  of  beaten  eggs.  Drain  the  palates,  skin  them, 
put  them  in  the  sauce,  then  turn  the  whole  into  a  deep  dish,  and  serve. 

Beef  Palate  Croquettes. 

Put  three  palates  into  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  over  a  moderate  fire  until 
done.  Take  them  out,  scrape  and  cut  them  into  quarters.  Put  them  into  another 
saucepan  with  two  heads  of  cloves,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  little  thyme  and  bay-leaves, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  sufficient  stock  to"  cover,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an 
hour;  then  take  out  the  palates,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  beef  forcemeat  on  each  quarter, 
roll  them  up,  and  dip  into  a  thin  paste  made  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil  and 
one  half  pint  of  white  wine.  Plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat,  fry  until 
done,  arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  a  garnish  of  fried  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot  or 
they  will  be  spoiled. 

Curried  Beef  Palates. 

Prepare  two  palates  as  for  braising,  cutting  them  up  into  shapes.  Put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  sufficient  brown  stock  to  cover,  and  add  one  or  two  onions,  cut  in 
slices,  a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  half  the  quantity  of  curry  paste,  two  table- 


152  BEEF. 

spoonfuls  of  flour  mixed  in  a  little  stock,  and  salt  to  taste  ;  put  the  pan  on  the  fire, 
stir  frequently,  and  cook  slowly  until  they  are  done.  Just  before  serving  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  to  the  liquor,  mix  it  in,  turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  dish  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Fricassee  of  Beef  Palates  with  Truffles. 

The  palates  must  be  boiled  till  tender  in  salted  water  in  which  has  been  placed  a 
slice  of  lemon  and  a  lump  of  butter.  Drain  and  skin  the  palates,  and  cut  them  into 
small  pieces.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  over  the  fire  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  take  color  ;  then 
pour  on  gradually  the  required  quantity  of  chicken  broth,  add  a  few  mushrooms, 
small  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  boil  the  sauce  till  well  flavored  with  the 
herbs.  Strain  the  sauce  into  another  stewpan,  season  with  salt  and  sugar,  and  boil 
till  reduced.  Cut  some  truffles  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  some 
butter,  add  a  little  salt  and  fry  over  a  brisk  fire.  Move  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the 
fire,  stir  in  a  liaison  of  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  ;  put  the  truffles  and  palates  into  the 
sauce,  and  make  them  hot  again  without  boiling.  Turn  the  fricassee  into  a  deep  dish 
or  a  casserole  of  rice,  and  serve. 

Paupiettes   of  Beef  Palates. 

Cut  off  five  or  six  fillets  from  some  cooked  beef  palates ;  trim,  and  cut  them  into 
halves.  Have  ready  a  salpicon  of  cooked  fine  herbs,  finished  with  truffles  and  thick- 
ened with  forcemeat,  cover  the  fillets  over  with  it,  and  roll  them  round  into  the  shape 
of  paupiettes,  fastening  them  with  small  skewers.  Dip  them  into  well  beaten  egg, 
cover  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  until  they  are  done. 
Take  them  out,  drain,  remove  the  skewers,  place  .them  on  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  in  the 
form  of  a  pyramid,  and  serve. 

Beef  Pot-Pie. 

Cut  into  pieces  of  equal  size  some  coarse  fat  beef,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  cold 
water,  and  stew  for  about  two  hours  with  the  lid  on  the  pan ;  add  a  few  slices  of  fat 
pork  or  bacon,  an  onion,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  thickening  of  flour  and  water ; 
turn  into  a  dish,  lined  with  biscuit  dough,  such  as  is  used  for  dumplings,  cover  over 
with  more  of  the  dough,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  done.  Turn  out  on  a  dish, 
and  serve. 


Beefsteak-Pie    with   Oysters. 


Cut  six  or  seven  thin  slices  out  of  a  sirloin  of  beef,  beat  them  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  flour  them,  and  arrange  in  a  pie-dish,  surrounded  by  two  dozen 
blanched  oysters.  Pour  a  little  cold  gravy  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  cover  the 
pie  with  a  good  crust,  baking  lightly  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 


BEEF.  153 

Beefsteak  and  Kidney   Pudding. 

Cut  some  long  rump  steaks  into  pieces  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  sprinkle 
over  them  some  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Chop  up  a  beef  kidney  into  seven  or  eight 
pieces,  and  place  together  with  the  meat  in  a  buttered  basin  lined  with  suet-crust, 
pour  over  a  little  water  or  weak  stock,  and  cover  with  a  flat  of  paste,  fastening  it  all 
around  the  edge.  Tie  a  well  floured  cloth  over  the  basin,  put  in  a  saucepan  of  water 
and  boil  for  two  hours,  adding  more  water  if  necessary.  When  done,  turn  the  pud- 
ding carefully  into  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Beef  Rissolettes. 

Mince  some  fresh  beef  very  fine,  removing  all  skin  and  gristle,  mix  with  it  about 
a  fourth  of  its  weight  in  breadcrumbs,  adding  an  onion  boiled  tender,  and  a  few  drops 
of  essence  of  anchovy,  pepper  and  salt,  and  sufficient  egg  to  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste. 
Roll  into  egg-shaped  balls,  dip  each  in  egg,  roll  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  gently. 
Then  prepare  a  little  gravy  by  boiling  the  trimmings  of  the  meat  in  the  water  the 
onion  was  boiled  in,  and  when  they  are  done,  pour  the  fat  from  the  fryingpan  and 
allow  the  gravy  to  boil  up  in  it,  and  thicken  with  a  small  quantity  of  flour  and  water. 
Stir  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  seasoning  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  place  the  risso- 
lettes  around  a  heap  of  mashed  potatoes  on  a  dish,  pour  the  gravy  around  but  not 
over  them,  and  serve. 

Roast  Beef,  American  Style. 

Lay  the  meat  on  some  sticks  in  a  dripping-pan,  so  as  not  to  touch  the  water 
which  it  is  requisite  to  have  in  the  bottom;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  place  in 
a  roasting-oven  for  three  or  four  hours.  Baste  frequently  with  the  water  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pan.  Sift  over  the  meat  before  serving  some  powdered  and  browned 
crackers,  and  garnish  4with  parsley. 

Roast  Beef  on  the  Spit. 

Remove  most  of  the  flap  from  the  sirloin  and  trim  neatly;  have  a  clear,  brisk  fire, 
and  place  the  meat  close  to  it  for  the  first  half  hour,  then  move  it  farther  away,  bast- 
ing frequently,  and  when  done,  sprinkle  the  joint  well  with  salt.  The  gravy  may  be 
prepared  by  taking  the  meat  from  the  dripping-pan,  which  will  leave  a  brown  sedi- 
ment; pour  in  some  boiling  water  and  salt,  and  stir  thoroughly,  straining  over  the 
meat.  A  thickening  of  flour  may  be  added  if  necessary.  Garnish  with  horseradish 
and  serve  with  horseradish  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

Roast  Ribs  of  Beef. 

Break  off  the  ends  of  the  bones  of  the  desired  amount  of  ribs  of  beef,  take 
out  the  chine-bone,  and  place  the  meat  in  a  baking  pan,  sprinkle  over  some  salt,  put 


154  BEEF. 

small  lumps  of  butter  over  it,  and  dust  with  flour,  baking  in  a  moderate  oven  till  done. 
When  done,  place  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  horseradish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Smoked    Beef. 

To  each  twelve  pounds  of  beef  rub  in  the  following  mixture :  One  pint  of 
salt,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  the  same  amount  of  molasses,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pounded  saltpeter.  After  rubbing  it  well  into  the  beef,  allow  it  to  lie  in 
the  mixture,  turning  it  over  several  times,  for  ten  days,  when  drain,  rub  bran  over  it, 
and  hang  in  the  smoke-house  to  smoke  for  several  days. 

Smoked  Beef  with  Cream. 

Place  the  finely  minced  beef  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  cooking  it  for 
two  minutes,  and  moisten  slightly  with  a  little  cream,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
bechamel  sauce,  and  serve  as  soon  as  it  boils  up. 

Smothered   Beef. 

Select  the  middle  of  the  rump,  flank  or  round  of  beef,  wipe  clean  with  a  moist 
cloth,  and  sear  it  all  over  by  placing  it  in  a  fryingpan  and  turning  it  until  the  surface 
is  browned.  Place  in  a  kettle  with  a  little  water,  and  keep  it  to  just  the  boiling 
point  ;  fit  the  cover  over  tightly  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and  add  a  little  water  now  and 
then  as  it  boils  away.  Cook  until  quite  tender,  serving  hot  or  cold,  as  preferred. 

Spiced  Beef. 

Remove  the  bones  from  a  piece  of  thin  flank  of  beef  and  soak  for  ten  days  in  a 
covered  crock  containing  a  pickle  composed  of  the  following  ingredients:  Boil  for 
twenty  minutes  two  gallons  of  water,  five  pounds  of  salt,  two  pounds  of  coarse  sugar 
and  four  ounces  of  saltpeter,  with  two  ounces  of  black  pepper  and  three  ounces  of 
mixed  spice  slightly  bruised  in  a  mortar  and  tied  up  in  a  muslin  bag  and  a  few  bay 
leaves.  Skim  off  the  scum  as  it  rises  and  let  it  stand  until  cold. 

Fried  Steak,  American  Style. 

Tenderloin  or  porterhouse  steak  is  to  be  selected  for  this,  put  it  on  a  clean  block, 
beat  it  well,  but  not  hard  enough  to  make  it  look  ragged,  sprinkle  over  pepper  and 
salt  and  dredge  with  flour  on  both  sides.  Place  in  a  hot  fryingpan,  cover  and  fry 
until  done,  turning  frequently.  Before  it  gets  hard  butter  well  and  place  on  a  hot 
dish,  pepper  again,  and  if  desired  pour  over  a  tablespoonful  of  chili  vinegar  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  made  mustard,  and  pour  the  hot  gravy  over  all.  Sift  powdered 
cracker  over,  and  serve. 


BEEF.  155 


Hamburg  Steak. 


Break  the  fiber  of  a  round  steak  by  beating  well,  fry  two  or  three  onions  minced 
fine  in  butter  slightly  browned,  spread  the  onions  over  the  meat,  fold  the  ends  of  the 
meat  together  and  pound  again  to  keep  the  onions  in  the  middle;  broil  two  or  three 
minutes;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  butter  well. 

Fried   Hamburg  Steak  with   Russian  Sauce. 

Select  a  piece  of  the  buttock  of  beef,  remove  all  the  fat,  and  chop  very  fine,  lay 
it  in  a  bowl  and  add  a  very  finely  chopped  shallot,  two  raw  eggs,  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
together  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Mix  well  together  and  form  the  mass  into  six 
balls  the  size  of  fillets  ;  roll  these  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  a  pan  with  a  little 
clarified  butter  for  four  or  five  minutes,  turning  frequently  and  keeping  them  slightly 
underdone.  Serve  with  a  Russian  sauce. 

Broiled  Loin  Steaks. 

Two  loin  steaks  of  about  a  pound  each  are  required  for  this  dish  ;  season  them 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  baste  on  either  side  with  a  little  oil,  place  on  a 
broiler  over  a  bright  charcoal  fire,  and  broil  them  for  six  minutes,  each  side.  Serve 
on  a  hot  dish  with  Bordeaux  sauce  over  them,  and  garnished  with  rounds  of  marrow. 

Fried  Minced    Beefsteak. 

Cut  from  the  flank  the  desired  amount  of  meat  with  a  little  fat  with  it,  season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  over  a  little  water.  Press  this  mince  into  a  tin, 
and  cut  into  slices,  which  place  in  a  fryingpan  with  butter  and  fry  until  quite  done 
and  well  browned ;  then  place  on  a  dish,  pour  over  rich  gravy,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Double    Porterhouse   Steak. 

Select  a  porterhouse  steak  of  about  three  pounds  in  weight,  cut  thick,  and  broil 
over  a  rather  slow  fire  (a  charcoal  fire  is  preferable)  for  ten  minutes  on  each  side,  and 
serve  garnished  with  watercress. 

Broiled  Rib  Steak. 

Cut  the  steak  about  half  an  inch  thick  from  between  the  two  ribs,  remove  all  the 
gristle  and  fat,  trim  to  a  flat  pear-shape,  and  sprinkle  both  sides  with  pepper  and  salt 
and  oil  to  prevent  outside  hardening;  broil  twelve  minutes  over  a  moderate  and  even 
fire.  Place  about  four  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  a  dish,  lay  the  steak  upon  it 
and  garnish  with  fried  potatoes,  serving  either  piquant,  Italian  or  tomato  sauce  with 
the  steak. 


i56  BEEF. 

Broiled  Sirloin   Steak. 

Cut  the  steak  to  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  place  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clea.- 
fire  and  broil  until  done.  Place  on  a  dish  with  a  little  warmed  butter  poured  over  it, 
and  serve. 

Beefsteak  with  Anchovy  Butter. 

For  a  medium-sized  steak  take  one  large  anchovy,  well  washed  and.  dried  and 
pounded  on  a  board.  Mix  the  anchovy  with  a  little  butter,  pass  through  a  hair  sieve, 
place  the  mixture  on  a  warm  dish,  lay  the  steak  on  it,  and  serve. 

Stewed    Beef. 

Remove  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  place  the  bones  and  fat  in  a  stewpan.  Cut 
the  meat  into  small  pieces,  and  if  not  already  cooked,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and 
flour,  and  brown  in  a  fryingpan  with  salt  pork  or  drippings,  then  place  in  the  stew- 
pan  with  the  bones.  Next  cut  up  two  onions,  a  small  turnip  and  half  a  carrot  into 
dice  of  about  a  half  inch  in  size,  cook  lightly  in  the  drippings  in  the  pan  and  afterwards 
add  them  to  the  stew:  pour  in  boiling  water  sufficient  to  cover  all,  and  simmer  for 
two  or  three  hours  until  the  meat  is  quite  tender.  Pare  six  or  eight  small  potatoes, 
soak  them  in  cold  water,  pour  boiling  water  over  them  and  boil  for  five  minutes. 
When  the  meat  is  done  skim  the  stock  and  drain  these  potatoes,  adding  them  to  the 
stew.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  remove  all  the  bones  before  serving. 

Tenderloin  of  Beef. 

Select  a  good  tenderloin  of  beef,  wipe  well,  and  remove  all  fat,  veins  and  tough 
portions,  trimming  into  shape.  Lard  the  upper  side,  and  dredge  with  salt,  pepper 
and  flour,  putting  several  pieces  of  pork  into  the  pan,  under  the  meat,  and  bake  in  a 
hot  oven  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  If  preferable,  the  pork  may  be  omitted  and  a 
fat  piece  of  the  beef  used  in  its  stead.  Serve  the  meat  with  mushroom  sauce,  or 
brush  the  tenderloin  with  beaten  egg  and  sprinkle  seasoned  breadcrumbs  over  it,  or 
stuff  the  incisions  made  by  removing  the  veins  and  tendons  with  forcemeat,  and 
dredge  with  salt  and  flour. 

Braised  Larded  Tenderloin  of  Beef. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  a  larded  tenderloin  of  beef,  pour  over  it  a  glassful  or  so  of 
white  wine,  a  little  brandy,  and  some  rich  stock,  adding  an  onion  and  carrot  cut  into 
thick  slices,  a  bunch  of  thyme  and  parsley,  and  bay  leaf,  salting  and  peppering  to 
taste.  Place  on  the  fire  and  boil  quickly,  skimming  it  thoroughly,  and  remove  to  the 
side  and  simmer  gently  until  the  meat  is  done.  Put  the  joint  on  a  dish,  skim  and 
strain  the  liquor,  and  reduce  it;  after  which  warm  the  whole  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
ten  minutes,  without  boiling,  and  serve,  pouring  the  gravy  around  the  beef. 


BEEF.  157 

Broiled  Tenderloin  of   Beef. 

Cut  a  slice  from  the  tenderloin  about  an  inch  thick,  wipe  dry,  and  dust  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Grease  well  a  gridiron,  and  broil  the  meat  over  a  clear  fire, 
turning  every  ten  counts  for  three  to  five  minutes.  Spread  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter, 
and  serve. 

Broiled  Tenderloin,  Cheron. 

Broil  three  tenderloin  steaks,  and  place  them  on  a  dish  on  top  of  a  gill  of  hot 
Bearnaise  sauce,  and  put  on  each  steak  one  hot  artichoke  bottom  filled  with  hot 
Macedoine;  then  pour  over  just  a  small  quantity  of  meat  glaze,  and  serve. 

Tenderloin,  Florentin. 

Three  tenderloin  steaks  should  be  prepared  exactly  as  for  broiled  tenderloin, 
Cheron,  pour  a  gill  of  hot  Madeira  sauce  over  the  steaks  and  garnish  with  three  hot 
artichokes  a  la  Florentin,  and  serve. 

Larded   Tenderloin  of  Beef. 

Trim  thoroughly  a  short  tenderloin  of  beef,  and  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
flour  well ;  fasten  it  into  shape  with  skewers,  and  lard  it  in  two  rows  with  strips  of 
pork.  Place  in  a  bakingpan  with  any  liquor,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour.  It  should 
first  be  placed  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  in  the  hottest 
for  the  remainder  of  the  time.  When  done,  dish  and  serve  with  Hollandaise  or 
tomato  sauce,  or  mushroom  catsup. 

Minions  of  Tenderloin,  Lorillard. 

When  the  six  timbales,  as  below  described,  have  been  prepared  and  taken  from 
the  oven,  have  in  readiness  six  fine  tenderloin  minions  and  serve  them  with  the  fol- 
lowing garnish  :  Procure  six  small  timbale  moulds  about  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in 
diameter  by  two  inches  deep,  butter  the  insides  and  place  them  in  an  ice-box  to 
become  cold ;  then  take  one  good  sized  cooked  carrot,  oae  cooked  turnip,  and  cut 
them  with  a  tube  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  by  one  inch  in  length;  a  medium 
sized  white  cabbage,  with  the  outer  leaves  trimmed  neatly,  should  also  be  placed  in 
readiness.  Then  place  in  a  stewpan  an  ounce  of  salt  pork  cut  into  small  dice-shaped 
pieces,  put  in  the  cabbage  and  season  with  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  place  the  pan  over 
a  rather  slow  fire,  cover  it  well,  and  cook  gradually  for  half  an  hour  without  taking 
off  the  lid.  While  this  is  cooking  decorate  the  six  timbales  by  laying  a  slice  of 
truffle  half  an  inch  in  diameter  at  the  bottom  of  each  in  the  middle,  and  with  a  lard- 
ing-needle  arrange  a  row  of  cooked  peas  around  this,  decorate  half  the  interior  of  the 
timbales  with  half  of  the  carrots  and  turnips,  and  keep  them  all  inclining  slightly 


158  BEEF. 

toward  the  right,  and  the  other  half  toward  the  left ;  and  then  fill  up  the  timbales 
with  cooked  cabbage,  pressing  it  down  gently,  so  as  to  fill  the  moulds  entirely 
up  to  the  top.  Then  put  them  on  a  roasting  pan,  fill  with  hot  water  to  half  the 
height  of  the  timbales  and  put  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  from  three  to  four  minutes,  then 
remove  from  the  oven  and  put  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  stove  so  that  it  will  keep 
just  warm ;  cut  an  oval-shaped  slice  from  an  American  loaf  of  bread  about  an  inch 
in  thickness,  pare  the  edges  neatly,  and  butter  it  thinly,  and  brown  lightly  in  the 
oven,  then  lay  it  on  a  very  hot  dish,  and  dress  the  six  minions  on  top  of  the  bread 
croustade,  each  lengthwise  and  overlapping  each  other  a  trifle.  Then  pour  over  half 
a  pint  of  hot  Colbert  sauce,  to  which  may  be  added  whatever  parings  of  slices  of 
truffle  that  remain  about  a  minute  before  it  is  to  be  used  ;  then  with  a  towel  remove  the 
timbales  from  the  pan  one  at  a  time ;  turn  them  upside  down,  unmould,  and  decorate 
the  dish  with  them,  placing  one  at  either  end  and  two  at  each  side,  when  the  dish 
should  be  sent  to  the  table  at  once. 

Minions   of  Tenderloin,  Pompadour. 

Procure  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  tender  fillet  of  beef,  pare  it  neatly  all  around 
and  cut  it  up  into  six  equal  sized  small  fillets ;  flatten  them  slightly  and  equally  and 
put  them  on  a  dish,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  then  put 
them  in  a  pan  on  a  hot  range  with  half  a  gill  of  clarified  butter,  allowing  them  to 
cook  for  four  minutes  on  either  side,  next  prepare  a  pint  of  Bearnaise  sauce,  dress 
three-quarters  of  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  reserve  the  other  quarter  for  further  use.  Next 
lay  six  round-shaped  pieces  of  bread  croutons  fried  in  butter  over  the  Bearnaise  sauce 
and  dress  the  six  fillets  one  on  top  of  each  crouton  and  fix  six  warmed  artichoke 
bottoms  right  in  the  middle  of  the  fillets ;  fill  up  the  artichokes  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  hot  jardiniere  garnishing  and  evenly  divide  the  remaining  pint  of  hot  Bearnaise 
sauce  over  the  jardiniere,  and  then  cut  into  six  evenly  shaped  slices  one  good  sized 
truffle  and  put  one  slice  on  the  top  of  each  in  the  center  of  the  Bearnaise  sauce,  and 
serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Minions  of  Tenderloin,  Sauted   Bearnaise. 

Cut  from  the  end  of  a  tenderloin  of  beef  some  slices  about  five-eighths  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  trim  and  press  them  into  circles  and  sprinkle  over  some  salt  and  pepper, 
saute  then  in  butter  and  spread  some  sauce  Bearnaise  on  a  hot  dish  and  place  the 
minions  over,  and  serve. 

Noisettes  of  Tenderloin  of  Beef,  Plain. 

After  trimming  the  tenderloin  of  beef,  cut  it  into  slices  and  lightly  flatten  them 
to  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  trim  them  round.  After  this  is 
done  each  one  should  weigh  about  three  ounces  ;  then  salt  them  on  both  sides  ;  place 


BEEF. 

them  in  a  saucepan  over  a  hot  fire  together  with  a  little  oil  and  a  similar  quantity  of 
butter  and  cook  rapidly  for  five  to  seven  minutes.  When  cooked  put  them  on  a  plate, 
glaze  and  serve  on  a  dish  with  a  little  gravy  poured  around. 

Noisettes  of  Tenderloin  of  Beef,  Rossini. 

After  preparing  them  exactly  as  for  plain  noisettes,  glaze  and  place  them  upon 
small  pieces  of  toast,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  the  same  shape 
and  size  as  the  noisettes,  and  fry  them  in  a  little  oil.  Select  some  very  large  chicken 
livers,  and  cut  them  into  pretty  thick  slices,  and  cook  them  in  some  butter  in  a  pan; 
place  a  slice  on  each  noisette,  and  then  a  round  slice  of  truffle  on  this  ;  cover  the 
whole  with  Madeira  sauce  with  a  small  quantity  of  essence  of  truffle  added  to  it. 

Noisettes   of  Tenderloin   of  Beef  with   Puree   of 

Mushrooms. 

Prepare  them  the  same  as  for  plain  noisettes,  then  glaze  and  lay  them  on  round 
flat  croustades  made  from  parings  of  good  puff  paste,  and  decorate  with  mushroom 
puree. 

Stewed   Tenderloin  of  Beef  with  Oysters. 

To  each  pound  of  tenderloin  steak  required,  use  one  dozen  oysters,  as  follows : 
Mix  a  little  butter  and  flour  together  in  a  stewpan;  peel  and  chop  up  a  Spanish 
onion,  cut  up  two  pickled  walnuts  and  place  them  in  the  stewpan,  together  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup  and  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce.  Put 
the  steak  in  on  top  of  these,  and  stew  for  an  hour,  turning  every  twenty  minutes  or 
so,  but  do  not  let  it  come  to  the  boiling  point.  Open  the  oysters,  remove  their 
beards,  strain  the  liquor  through  a  sieve,  and  add  them  just  before  serving. 

Tournedos   of  Beef,  New  York  Style. 

Cut  from  a  cooked  tenderloin  of  beef  the  requisite  number  of  slices  about  half 
an  inch  in  thickness  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover 
them,  warm  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  but  without  boiling.  Cut  as  many  slices  of 
bread  to  the  same  size  and  thickness  as  the  meat  and  place  them  in  a  fryingpan 
with  some  fat  skimmed  off  of  stock  and  fry.  Arrange  the  slices  of  meat  and  bread 
alternately  around  the  dish,  filling  the  center  with  cooked  string  beans  or  olives,  and 
serve  together  with  a  sauceboatful  of  piquant  sauce. 

Tournedos  of  Tenderloin  of  Beef,  Plain. 

These  are  prepared  the  same  as  noisettes  of  beef,  but  are  smaller  in  size, 
weighing  about  two  ounces  instead  of  three  as  for  the  noisettes.  Salt  and  pepper 
over  and  put  them  in  some  warm  fat  in  a  sautepan  and  cook  over  a  brisk  fire,  turn- 


160  BEEF. 

ing  them  but  once  during  the  process  of  cooking,  then  drain,  wipe  and  glaze  them, 
pour  a  little  clear  gravy  in  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  lay  on  the  tournedos,  and  serve. 
They  should  be  cooked  from  four  to  six  minutes. 

Boiled   Tongues. 

Soak  the  prepared  tongues  over  night  in  a  liberal  quantity  of  cold  water  to 
freshen  them  slightly,  if  they  are  salted,  or  blanch  them  if  they  are  fresh.  On  the 
following  day  put  them  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  with  fresh  cold  water  for  boiling 
tongues,  or  boiling  water  for  fresh  ones,  and  allow  twenty  minutes  for  each  tongue 
from  the  time  they  begin  to  boil.  A  sliced  lemon,  or  one  teacupful  of  vinegar,  and 
one  teaspoonful  each  of  whole  cloves  and  peppercorns  boiled  with  a  large  tongue,  or 
less  for  smaller  tongues,  and  so  on  in  proportion,  greatly  improves  the  .flavor.  When 
the  tongues  are  done  take  them  up,  peel  off  the  skins  and  return  them  again  to  the 
hot  liquor  to  keep  them  warm,  or  if  they  are  to  be  used  cold  let  them  cool  in  it. 
When  serving  them  cut  them  into  long  slices,  beginning  near  the  tip.  All  the 
fleshy  parts  and  the  fat  near  the  roots  of  the  tongues  will  serve  to  make  excellent 
hash  when  cold,  but  are  not  generally  served  with  the  tongue. 

Boiled  Beef  Tongue  with  Chestnuts. 

Place  a  pickled  beef  tongue  in  a  bowl  of  water  to  soak,  then  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with  water  to  cover  and  boil  for  two  hours;  take  it  out,  drain  and  remove  the  skin. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  vegetables  cut  in  slices  and  a  few  sweet  herbs, 
place  the  tongue  on  top  and  pour  in  enough  broth  and  white  wine  to  moisten  to  half 
its  height.  Cover  with  paper,  place  over  a  slow  fire  and  cook  until  the  tongue  is  ten- 
der, turning  it  occasionally  so  as  t,o  glaze  it  on  both  sides.  Have  ready  a  pure*e  of 
chestnuts,  moderately  thick,  spread  it  over  a  dish  and  place  the  tongue  on  it;  add  a 
little  more  broth  to  the  liquor  in  the  saucepan,  boil  well,  skim  and  strain  into  another 
saucepan,  reduce  it  to  half-glaze,  pour  it  over  the  tongue,  and  serve. 


Braised   Beef  Tongue. 


Soak  a  beef  tongue  in  warm  water  until  all  the  blood  is  extracted  and  the  water 
quite  cold.  Take  it  out,  drain,  trim  off  the  superfluous  fat  and  lard  the  meat  with  fat 
bacon.  Put  it  in  a  braising  pan  with  a  few  cloves,  carrots  and  onions,  a  little  thyme 
and  parsley,  two  slices  of  fat  bacon  or  pork,  sufficient  stock  to  moisten  it  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Set  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  cover  it,  place  hot  ashes  on  the 
top  and  cook  slowly  for  about  four  hours.  Take  out  the  tongue  when  done,  remove 
the  skin,  cut  it  lengthwise  into  halves,  lay  them  open  on  a  dish,  pour  some  tomato  or 
piquant  sauce  over,  and  serve. 


BEEF.  161 

Broiled  Slices   of  Beef  Tongue  in  Cases. 

Cut  up  into  thick  slices  a  braised  beef  tongue,  cover  them  with  thin  slices  of  ba- 
con, sprinkle  over  a  few  minced  sweet  herbs  and  wrap  the  whole  round  with  pieces  of 
greased  paper,  folding  them  in  such  a  manner  that  the  liquor  cannot  run  out;  place 
them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil.  When  done  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and 
serve. 

Beef  Tongue  Financiere. 

Blanch  a  couple  of  fresh  beef  tongues,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  lined  with  vege- 
tables cut  in  slices  and  a  few  small  pieces  of  bacon,  moisten  with  a  little  broth,  cover 
the  tongues  with  paper,  put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  hot  ashes  on  the  lid,  and 
cook  until  the  tongues  are  quite  tender.  Remove  and  drain  them;  trim  the  thick  or 
root  ends,  making  them  as  round  as  possible,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  tongues 
transversely  to  half  their  length  and  remove  the  top  pieces.  Cut  these  into  slices  and 
put  them  back  in  their  places.  Put  a  flat  crouton  of  fried  bread  in  the  center  of  a 
dish,  masl^  it  with  forcemeat  poached  in  the  oven,  glaze  the  tongues  and  put  them  on 
it,  with  their  root  ends  meeting  in  the  middle;  surround  the  base  with  a  financiere 
garnishing  and  garnish  with  quenelles  made  with  a  spoon,  and  some  larger  ones 
studded  with  truffles.  Serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  brown  sauce  reduced  with  wine. 
Should  salted  tongues  be  used  thev  will  only  require  to  be  boiled  with  plenty  of  water 
until  they  are  tender,  and  then  treated  as  above. 

Beef  Tongue,  Gourmet  Style. 

Boil  a  beef  tongue  in  plenty  of  water  for  three  hours.  When  cooked,  drain,  peel 
the  skin  off,  and  trim  it  nicely.  Lard  and  braise  four  sweetbreads.  Take  the  fillets 
of  two  or  three  chickens,  trim  them  nicely,  put  them  in  a  buttered  sautepan  and  saute 
them.  Peel  sufficient  potatoes  that  will  when  mashed  fill  a  border  mould,  boil  till 
tender,  then  drain  and  mash  them  with  a  little  butter;  press  them  in  a  border  mould, 
and  set  them  in  a  bain-marie  for  a  few  minutes.  When  the  fillets  of  chickens  are 
cooked,  take  them  out  of  the  pan,  and  keep  them  hot.  Pour  one  and  one-half  pints 
of  white  sauce,  and  one-half  pint  of  veal  stock  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  till  rather 
thickly  reduced,  stirring  all  the  time;  then  mix  one  teacupful  of  cream  with  it,  and 
season  with  a  small  quantity  of  moist  sugar.  Glaze  the  tongue  and  sweetbreads. 
Turn  the  potato  border  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  tongue  in  the  center,  place  two  of  the 
sweetbreads  at  each  end,  the  fillets  of  chicken  at  each  side,  pour  the  sauce  over  them, 
straining  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  serve  at  once. 


Minced  Beef  Tongue. 


Cut  any  cold  cooked  beef  tongue  into  oblong-shaped  pieces,  cut  them  again 
transversely  into  slices,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  few  slices  of  uncooked 


162  BEEF. 

truffle.  Cut  an  onion  and  three  small  Jerusalem  artichokes  into  slices  and  again  into 
quarters,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  oil,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  fry  over  a  moderate  fire  until  done.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
minced  parsley,  cook  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  then  add  the  pieces  of  tongue  and 
truffles.  Cook  for  three  or  four  minutes  longer,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and 
pour  in  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Turn  the  mince  out  onto  a  dish,  garnish  with 
pieces  of  bread  fried  in  butter,  and  serve. 


Scalloped  Beef  Tongue. 


Chop  up  sufficient  cold  cooked  beef  tongue  to  fill  two  breakfast  cups,  and  mix 
in  one  teaspoonful  each  of  capers,  chopped  parsley  and  salt,  a  little  pepper,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  onion  juice,  mixed  with  a  teacupful  of  stock.  Sprinkle  sifted 
breadcrumbs  over  a  well-buttered  scallop  dish,  put  in  the  tongue  preparation,  cover 
with  more  breadcrumbs,  making  the  total  quantity  used  one  breakfast  cupful,  and 
put  some  small  pieces  of  butter  here  and  there  over  the  top.  Place  the  dish  in  the 
oven,  bake  for  twenty  minutes,  remove  and  serve  at  once. 

Stewed    Beef  Tongue. 

Cut  the  root  off  a  tongue,  but  do  not  take  all  the  fat  off.  Salt  the  tongue 
for  a  week  with  common  salt  and  a  little  saltpeter,  turning  it  every  day.  Then 
boil  it  till  the  skin  can  be  easily  removed.  When  skinned,  stew  it  in  a  little  good 
gravy  until  sufficiently  tender,  seasoning  with  mushroom  catsup,  soy,  cayenne, 
pounded  cloves  and  a  little  salt,  if  required.  Serve  with  morels,  mushrooms  or 
truffles. 

Beef  Tongue,  Terrapin   Style. 

Put  a  salted  beel  tongue  into  a  saucepan  of  water,  and  boil  it  until  quite  tender ; 
remove  it,  drain,  and  cut  in  halves  lengthwise.  Stick  a  few  cloves  in,  put  the  pieces 
into  another  saucepan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  add  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  a 
little  mace  and  browned  flour,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  and  put  in  three  finely  chopped 
hard  boiled  eggs,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  pour  in  one  wineglassful  of  wine, 
turn  the  whole  out  on  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot  with  a  garnish  of  hard  boiled  eggs 
cut  in  slices. 


Tripe. 


This  is  usually  bought  ready  prepared,  but  as  instances  may  occur  when  the 
cook  may  have  to  clean  it,  the  following  instructions  may  be  useful :  Wash  the 
stomach  well  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  bullock,  changing  the  water  several 
times  ;  dust  the  dark  inside  coat  with  quicklime,  and  scrape  it  at  once.  Cut  it  up  into 
four  parts,  dip  them  into  boiling  water,  and  scrape  them  until  they  become  perfectly 
white.  Put  them  into  a  bowl  with  a  weak  brine  thickened  with  meal,  and  allow  them 


BEEF.  163 

to  remain  for  a  day.  Scrape  and  soak  them  in  this  way  for  seven  or  eight  days,  then 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  oatmeal  gruel  to  cover,  and  boil  it  until  tender.  The 
tripe  should  be  tied  up  in  a  cloth.  Turn  it  out  of  the  cloth,  place  it  in  a  bowl  of 
weak  brine,  let  it  remain  for  a  day  or  so,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  Or  put  the 
pieces  of  the  stomach  of  a  fat  bullock,  one  at  a  time,  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  and 
warm  them ;  remove,  scrape  well,  put  them  into  a  bowl  of  slightly  salted  water,  wash 
them  well,  change  the  water  daily,  and  allow  them  to  soak  for  five  or  six  days,  by 
which  time  they  should  be  quite  white.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil 
them  ;  if  not  required  for  immediate  use,  keep  them  in  vinegar. 


Tripe  a  la  Mode  de  Caen. 


Take  five  or  six  pounds  of  double  tripe,  one  cow  heel,  three  calf's  feet,  all  well 
washed  and  cleaned  in  fresh  water,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  two  inches  long  by  one 
inch  square.  Have  handy  an  earthenware  pot  or  saucepan,  place  some  of  the  pieces  of 
feet  at  the  bottom,  cover  over  with  tripe,  then  a  layer  of  sliced  onions  and  carrots, 
and  continue  the  same  until  the  vessel  is  full,  seasoning  each  layer.  Tie  up  in  a 
cloth  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bay  leaf,  a  dozen  whole  peppers  and  half  a  dozen  cloves ; 
place  this  in  the  middle  of  the  pot,  and  pour  over  one  pint  of  cider  or  white  wine 
and  a  wineglassful  of  brandy.  Cover  the  top  over  with  some  stalks  of  green  leeks, 
parsley  roots  and  cabbage  leaves,  put  the  lid  on  the  pan,  fastening  it  down  with  paste, 
so  that  the  steam  cannot  escape,  and  leave  it  for  ten  hours  in  a  very  slow  oven. 
Serve  it  on  a  hot  dish. 

>e  and  Onions. 


Tripi 


Putonepoundof  tripe  into  a  saucepan  with  four  large  onions  cut  into  slices,  sprinkle 
over  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  small  quantity  of  pepper,  and  pour  over  one  pint  of 
water,  place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  about  twenty-five  minutes,  or  until 
the  tripe  is  tender.  Take  out  the  tripe  and  onions,  skim  the  fat  off  the  liquor,  reduce 
it  to  half  its  original  quantity,  add  a  thickening  of  milk  and  flour,  and  boil  for  a  minute 
or  two;  replace  the  tripe  and  onions,  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes, 
turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  dish  and  serve  hot. 


Baked   Tripe  with  Potatoes. 


Cut  one  pound  of  tripe  into  one-inch  squares,  put  them  into  an  earthenware 
basin  with  four  chopped  onions,  and  one  teaspoonful  each  of  pepper  and  salt,  cover 
with  stock  or  water,  place  the  basin  in  a  slow  oven  and  bake  for  three  hours. 
Strain  off  the  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  skim  it,  add  sufficient  flour  to  thicken  and  boil 
it  up  once.  Arrange  the  tripe  and  onions  in  a  pie-dish,  pour  over  the  liquor  and 
cover  the  top  with  mashed  potatoes,  stand  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  for  ten 
minutes,  so  as  to  heat  the  mass  thoroughly  and  brown  the  surface.  Remove  it  and 
serve  the  dish  without  delay. 


1 64  BEEF. 


Bordelaise. 


iripe 

Take  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  tripe  and  cut  it  into  a  dozen  lozenge-shaped 
pieces  and  let  them  marinade  for  two  hours  in  one  tablespoonful  of  oil,  with  a  pinch 
of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  one  bay-leaf,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  half  a  dozen  whole 
peppers,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  crushed  clove  of  garlic.  Drain,  roll  them  in  flour, 
then  in  beaten  eggs,  and  lastly  in  sifted  breadcrumbs.  Fry  them  in  one  ounce  of 
clarified  butter  in  a  pan  for  five  or  six  minutes  on  either  side,  and  serve  with  one  gill 
of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  adding  to  it  one  teaspoonful  of  meat  glaze. 

Broiled  Tripe. 

Wash  well  a  piece  of  tripe,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  milk  and  water 
to  cover  it,  and  boil  it  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  Take  it  out,  drain  it,  cut  it 
up  into  pieces,  brush  them  over  with  warm  butter,  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil  until  well  browned.  Place 
them  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Tripe  with   Tartar  Sauce. 

Put  two  pounds  of  tripe  cut  up  into  large  squares  into  a  basin,  sprinkle  them 
with  salt,  pepper,  or  cayenne,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  onion  and  a  small 
quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  pour  over  some  oil,  and  allow  the  whole  to  remain  for 
an  hour.  Take  them  out  singly,  roll  them  in  oil,  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  put  them 
on  a  gridiron  over  a  bright  fire,  and  broil  them  for  twenty  minutes  or  so.  When 
done,  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  tartar  sauce,  either  poured  around  or  served 
in  a  sauceboat. 

Tripe,  Creole  Style. 

Cut  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  tripe  into  small  pieces,  fry  them  in  a  pan 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  chopped  onion,  and  half  of  a  green  pepper,  also 
chopped.  Brown  them  slightly  for  six  minutes,  then  transfer  them  to  a  saucepan 
with  one  chopped  tomato  and  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  season  with  one 
pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  adding  a  garnished  bouquet,  also  a  crushed 
clove  of  garlic.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  with  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  sprinkled  over. 

Curried  Tripe. 

Cut  the  tripe  into  small  pieces.  Slice  two  or  three  onions,  according  to  size, 
place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  brown  them  over  a  quick  fire. 
Put  the  tripe  in  with  the  onions,  pour  in  enough  broth  to  cover  it,  and  stew  gently 
until  tender.  Put  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  in  a  basin  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
curry  powder  ;  then  stir  in  slowly  one-half  teacupful  of  cream  and  one  teacupful 


BEEF.  165 

of  broth.  When  quite  smooth  stir  the  curry  in  with  the  tripe,  and  boil  it  for  a  few 
minutes  longer,  until  thickened,  stirring  now  and  then.  When  cooked,  turn  the 
tripe  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Fricassee  of  Tripe. 

Cut  one  pound  or  so  of  tripe  into  two-inch  squares,  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  small  quantity  each  of  mace  and  ground  ginger,  sweet  herbs,  and  chopped 
onion,  pour  over  sufficient  white  wine  to  cover,  stand  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  herbs,  add  a  little  chopped  parsley,  half  of 
an  anchovy  cut  up  small,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  and 
a  thickening  of  yolk  of  egg  and  butter.  Season  the  mixture  well,  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  slices  of 
lemon  for  a  garnish. 

Tripe,  Lyonnese. 

Wash  thoroughly  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  tripe,  boil  it  until  tender  in  water, 
cut  it  up  into  pieces  about  one  and  one-half  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide,  sprinkle 
over  them  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  boil- 
ing lard,  and  fry  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Remove  them  and  drain  on  a  sieve.  Put 
two  or  three  onions,  cut  up  into  slices  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  small  quantity  of  oil, 
butter  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  cook  them  until  they  are  well  colored  ;  then  add  the 
tripe,  sprinkle  over  a  little  cayenne,  toss  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the  onions  are 
cooked,  take  out  the  garlic,  add  a  small  quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  take  the  pan 
off  the  fire,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  dish,  and 
serve. 

Tripe,  Poulette  Style. 

Put  a  large  chopped  onion  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  and  fry  to  a  good 
yellow  color;  add  one  pound  of  tripe  cut  into  squares,  season  well  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  fry  it  until  the  moisture  of  the  tripe  is  reduced,  dredge  over  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour  and  add  gradually  sufficient  rich  broth  to  moisten.  Stir  well  until  the 
liquor  boils,  then  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes,  remove  the 
saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  for  twenty-five  minutes,  Remove 
the  pieces  of  tripe,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  keep  warm.  Reduce  the  liquor,  thicken 
it  with  yolks  of  eggs,  pour  it  over  the  tripe  and  serve.  A  small  quantity  of  butter, 
chopped  parsley,  lemon  juice,  grated  nutmeg,  etc.,  may  be  mixed  with  the  liquor. 

Stewed  Tripe. 

Wash  thoroughly  one  pound  of  tripe,  boil  it  until  tender  and  then  drain  it.  Put 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  well  mixed;  then  pour  in  by  degrees  one  pint  of  milk  and  keep  on 


166  BEEF. 

stirring  until  boiling.  Put  the  tripe  in  the  sauce,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt 
and  boil  it  gently  for  fifteen  minutes  or  so.  Turn  the  tripe  and  sauce  onto  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  or  sippets  of  toast,  and  serve. 


Beef  Vinaigrette. 


Cut  a  slice  of  about  three  inches  in  thickness  from  a  round  of  boiled  fresh  beef, 
put  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  over  it  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  a  little  water,  add 
a  bay  leaf,  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two  or  three  cloves  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Place  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  cook  until  the  liquor  is  about  half  ab- 
sorbed, turning  the  meat  frequently.  Place  on  a  dish  when  cold,  and  serve  with  a 
sauceboat  of  the  liquor  strained  and  a  little  vinegar  mixed  with  it. 

Vol-au-Vent   of  Beef  Tendons. 

Remove  the  nerves  and  skin  from  the  beef  tendons  and  place  them  in  a  basin 
with  enough  water  to  cover  them  and  let  them  soak  until  quite  white;  then  place  in 
a  saucepan  of  salted  water  and  a  little  vinegar,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Line  a  vol- 
au-vent  case  with  good  puff  paste  and  bake  in  an  oven;  when  done  take  out,  and  after 
it  has  become  cold,  turn  it  out.  Put  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  warm  and  then 
put  in  the  pieces  of  tendon  and  pour  over  sufficient  bechamel  sauce  to  cover  them, 
and  put  a  couple  of  dozen  boiled  button  mushrooms  on  top  of  this;  place  the  vol-au- 
vent  in  the  oven,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Lamb. 

Ballotin   of  Lamb  with   Peas. 

Remove  the  bone  from  a  shoulder  of  lamb  weighing  about  three  pounds,  leaving 
the  end  bone  for  a  handle;  season  with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  the  same 
quantity  of  pepper.  Sew  it  up  with  string,  fasten  firmly  and  boil  for  about  three 
minutes  in  the  stockpot.  After  allowing  it  to  cool,  lard  the  top  with  a  larding-needle 
as  for  a  fricandeau  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  pork  skin,  an  onion  and 
a  carrot  cut  into  pieces.  Brown  lightly  for  six  or  eight  minutes,  then  moisten  with 
one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  and  one-half  pint  of  broth,  cook  in  the  oven  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  remove  it  and  strain  the  sauce  over  one  pint  of  hot  boiled  green 
peas,  then  cook  for  two  minutes  longer.  Place  the  garnishing  on  a  hot  dish,  remove 
the  strings  from  the  ballotin,  lay  it  on  top  of  the  garnishing,  and  serve. 

Blanquette   of  Lamb. 

Remove  the  meat  from  two  shoulders  of  lamb,  cut  it  into  moderate-sized  squares 
and  steep  them  in  water  for  one  hour.  Place  the  meat  in  a  stewpan,  cover  it  with  a 
little  water  or  broth  and  one  teacupful  of  white  wine.  When  the  liquid  boils  strain 
the  broth  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin  and  allow  it  to  remain  for  a  few  minutes  to 
settle.  Put  one  chopped  onion  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter  and  fry  till  browned; 
then  mix  the  meat  with  it  and  fry  them  together  for  a  few  minutes.  Sprinkle  in  a 
little  pepper,  salt  and  flour  and  pour  in  by  degrees  enough  of  the  broth  to  reach  the 
top  of  the  meat;  add  a  few  cloves  and  peppercorns,  some  trimmings  of  mushrooms 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  a  bay  leaf.  Place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  and  let 
the  contents  boil  quickly  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes  in  order  to  reduce  the  liquor  to 
one-fourth;  then  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  finish  cooking  the 
meat.  When  done  skim  the  fat  off  the  sauce,  stir  in  three  eggs  that  have  been  beaten 
with  some  milk  and  continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until  thick,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  boil;  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg,  remove  the  meat  from  the  stewpan  with  a  fork, 
arrange  it  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  sprinkle  a  little  parsley  on  the  top,  and 
serve. 

Braised   Breast  of  Lamb. 

Remove  the  bones  from  a  breast  of  lamb  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  season  the 
meat  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  roll  it  up  and  tie  it  securely  with  twine.  Chop 
fine  one  onion,  a  slice  of  carrot  and  a  slice  of  turnip.  Put  them  in  a  braising  pan 
with  a  lump  of  butter  and  stir  over  a  brisk  fire  for  five  minutes;  then  put  in  the  lamb, 

167 


168  LAMB. 

sprinkling  it  well  with  flour.  Place  the  lid  on  and  stand  the  stewpan  where  the  meat 
will  cook  slowly  for  another  hour,  basting  it  frequently.  When  ready  remove  the 
meat,  cut  off  the  string  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy,  strain 
the  latter  over  the  meat,  and  serve  while  very  hot  with  a  sauceboatful  of  either  tomato 
or  bechamel  sauce. 

Braised  Breast  of  Lamb,  Milanese  Style. 

Trim  a  breast  of  lamb,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  in  which  there  is  a  layer  of 
thin  slices  of  bacon  (fat) ;  put  some  slices  of  lemon  on  the  breast,  then  cover  it  with 
more  slices  of  fat  bacon.  Pour  in  one-half  pint  of  stock,  and  pack  in  an  onion  cut  in 
quarters.  Put  the  lid  on  the  stewpan  with  a  few  live  ashes  on  the  top,  and  braise 
slowly  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  breast  is  done,  glazing  it  when  cooked.  Place 
some  dressed  macaroni  on  a  hot  dish,  lay  the  joints  on  it,  pour  over  some  rich  brown 
gravy,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Breast  of  Lamb. 

Heat  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  grease  it  well  with  a  little  fat,  lay  the  breast  of 
lamb  upon  it,  and  when  well  done  on  one  side  turn  it  and  let  it  cook  on  the  other. 
Warm  two  ounces  of  butter,  work  in  a  little  pepper  and  salt  and  spread  it  over  the 
meat.  Place  the  joint  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  mint  sauce  in  a  boat. 

Stewed  Breast  of  Lamb. 

Cut  a  breast  of  lamb  into  pieces,  season  properly  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stew 
until  tender  in  enough  gravy  to  cover  the  meat.  Thicken  the  sauce,  pour  in  one  wine- 
glassful  of  sherry,  and  serve  on  a  dish  of  stewed  mushrooms. 

Brochettes  of  Lamb. 

Take  a  raw  leg  of  lamb,  remove  the  bone  and  pare  off  the  skin,  then  cut  it  into 
several  pieces  of  equal  size.  Put  them  in  a  bowl  with  two  finely  chopped  shallots, 
one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  parsley,  and  a  crushed 
clove  of  garlic.  Add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  also  half  a  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg.  Let  them  steep  for  two  hours, 
turning  at  times,  then  take  the  pieces  out,  run  skewers  through  the  centers  inter- 
larding them  with  pieces  of  salt  pork,  dip  the  brochettes  in  breadcrumbs  and  broil  for 
four  minutes. 

Broiled   Lamb  Chops. 

Trim  the  required  quantity  of  chops  that  have  been  cut  from  a  loin  of  lamb,  put 
them  on  a  heated  gridiron  and  broil  them  over  the  fire.  When  they  are  nicely  browned 
on  both  sides,  put  a  mound  of  mashed  potatoes  on  a  hot  dish,  lean  the  chops  against 
it,  and  serve. 


LAMB.  169 

Broiled   Lamb   Chops  in  Papers. 

Trim  the  chops  neatly,  remove  the  skin  and  fat,  dip  them  in  warm  butter,  and 
then  strew  parsley  and  chives  over  them.  Wrap  them  in  sheets  of  buttered  paper, 
and  broil  over  a  clear  fire.  When  cooked  pour  the  chops  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with 
gravy. 

Fried   Lamb   Chops. 

Pare  six  lamb  chops  and  split  them  through  the  center.  Fill  the  inside  with 
some  very  fine  salpicon,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  close  together  and  dip  in  beaten 
eggs,  then  in  fresh  breadcrumbs;  fry  for  four  minutes  on  each  side  in  two  ounces  of 
clarified  butter,  and  serve  with  one  gill  of  hot  Montglas  sauce,  after  arranging  a 
curled  paper  at  the  end  of  each  chop. 

Lamb   Chops,  Maintenon   Style. 

Select  six  well  trimmed  and  flattened  lamb  chops,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
a  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  fry 
on  one  side  only  for  one  minute.  Cover  the  cooked  side  with  a  chicken  forcemeat. 
Sprinkle  over  them  a  finely  minced  truffle,  put  them  on  a  well-buttered  baking  dish,  and 
place  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  four  minutes.  Place  a  paper  frill  on  the  end  of  each 
chop,  and  serve  with  one-half  pint  of  hot  clear  veloute-sauce  poured  on  the  dish,  and 
the  chops  laid  on  that. 

Lamb   Chops  with   Brown  Sauce. 

Cut  a  few  lamb  chops  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  trim  nicely,  dip  them 
in  beaten  egg,  then  roll  them  in  a  seasoning  of  finely  minced  parsley,  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  lemon  peel,  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  Heat  a  large  lump  of 
butter  in  a  deep  fryingpan  over  the  fire,  then  put  in  the  chops,  and  fry  until  well 
browned.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  a  small  lump  of  butter  into  a  stewpan, 
stir  over  the  fire,  then  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  clear  veal  gravy,  and  stir  until  boiling; 
drain  the  chops,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  stir  in  one  wineglassful  of  red  wine  with  the 
sauce,  strain  it  over  the  chops,  and  serve. 

Lamb   Chops  with   Champagne   Sauce. 

Pare  neatly  and  flatten  half  a  dozen  lamb  chops,  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt 
and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper,  fry  slightly  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and 
for  a  space  of  one  minute  on  each  side,  then  allow  them  to  cool.  Cover  the  surfaces 
with  chicken  forcemeat,  wrap  them  in  a  skin  taken  from  the  stomach  of  a  pig,  then 
dip  in  beaten  egg  and  fresh  bread  crumbs ;  cook  in  a  stewpan  with  four  ounces  of 
butter  for  four  minutes  on  each  side.  Arrange  a  paper  frill  at  the  end  of  each  chop, 


ijo  LAMB. 

and  serve  with  one-half  pint  of  hot  champagne  sauce  on  the  dish   and   the   chops 
dressed  over. 

Lamb    Chops  with    Perigueux  Sauce. 

Pare  neatly  half  a  dozen  chops,  flatten,  and  season  with  one-half  pinch  of  pepper 
and  one  pinch  of  salt.  Make  an  incision  on  each  chop,  and  garnish  the  inside  with  a 
truffle  previously  prepared  by  dipping  in  hot  glaze,  then  dip  the  chops  in  beaten  egg, 
roll  them  in  fresh  breadcrumbs,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, frying  them  for  five  minutes  on  either  side.  Pour  one-half  pint  of  Perigueux 
sauce  on  the  di-sh,  arrange  the  chops  over  it  with  curled  paper  on  their  ends,  and 
serve. 

Lamb    Croquettes. 

Chop  fine  three  pounds  of  raw  lamb,  peel  and  mince  three  onions,  mix  them 
all  well  together  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Divide  the  mixture  into  small 
quantities  and  roll  them  into  balls,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil.  Put 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  saucepan  with  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons  and  one 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  beat  well  Stir  over  a  slow  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it 
thickens,  taking  care  to  move  it  off  the  fire  before  the  eggs  have  time  to  boil,  or  they 
will  spoil  by  curdling;  then  mix  in  by  degrees  one  teacupful  of  the  liquor  in  which 
the  meat  balls  were  boiled,  stir  the  sauce  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  ten  minutes, 
arrange  the  croquettes  in  a  group  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round  them, 
and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Curried   Lamb. 

Cut  a  cooked  leg  of  lamb  into  middling-sized  dice,  and  remove  all  the  skin  and 
gristle.  Fry  a  chopped  onion  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter  until  browned,  then 
put  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  well  washed  and  dried  rice,  stir  a  few  minutes  over  the 
fire,  moisten  to  twice  its  height  with  unskimmed  broth,  and  boil  the  rice  on  a  slow 
fire  adding  frequently  more  broth  to  prevent  it  from  getting  too  dry.  When  nearly 
tender  mix  in  two  small  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder  diluted  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  take 
it  off,  put  in  the  chopped  meat,  place  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  and  stand  it  at  the  side 
of  the  fire  to  heat  the  lamb  thoroughly.  Pour  the  gravy  on  a  hot  dish  with  fried 
bread,  and  serve. 

Broiled    Lamb   Cutlets. 

Cut  some  cutlets  of  a  neck  of  lamb  and  trim  them  as  for  mutton  cutlets,  beat  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a  little  warmed  butter,  dip  in  the  cutlets,  then  in  breadcrumbs, 
and  then  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire;  when  they  are  done  on  one  side 
turn  them,  arrange  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  gravy. 


LAMB.  171 

Lamb  Cutlets,  Duchess  Style. 

Trim  neatly  some  cutlets  that  have  been  cut  off  the  neck  of  a  lamb,  scraping  the 
top  of  the  bone  until  clean,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  together  with  a  lump  of  butter, 
and  fry.  When  cooked  drain  the  cutlets  and  leave  them  until  cold.  Put  into  a 
saucepan,  two  or  three  mushrooms  a  finely  chopped  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley  and  a 
lump  of  butter;  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
white  sauce,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  liaison  of  three  well  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar.  Stir  the  mixture  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  it  is 
of  the  thickness  of  cream,  then  dip  the  cutlets  into  it,  coating  them  well  with  the 
sauce  and  setting  them  one  side  to  cool.  Brush  the  cutlets  over  with  beaten  yolk  of 
egg,  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  butter  until  well  browned.  Put  a  puree  of 
green  peas  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  forming  the  cutlets  around  it  in  an  upright 
position  and  slightly  overlapping  one  another,  then  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of 
white  sauce. 

Fried   Lamb   Cutlets. 

Trim  the  outer  skin  of  two  breasts  of  lamb,  place  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover 
with  veal  stock,  and  boil  slowly.  Prepare  a  veal  forcemeat,  season  highly  with 
herbs  and  spices,  and  bind  it  with  a  raw  egg.  When  the  breasts  of  lamb  are 
tender  bone  them  and  spread  the  forcemeat  over  the  inside,  laying  them  one  on 
top  of  the  other.  Place  them  between  two  dishes  with  a  heavy  weight  on  top  and 
leave  them  for  several  hours.  Take  some  small  bones  from  the  ribs,  trim  to  the 
shape  of  cutlet  bones  and  blanch  them.  Cut  the  cold  breasts  into  pieces,  forming 
them  into  the  shape  of  cutlets.  Beat  two  whites  and  three  yolks  of  eggs  together 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter,  the  butter  being  mixed  in  a  drop  at  a  time; 
brush  the  cutlets  over  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  the  beaten  egg  mixture,  roll 
them  in  fine  white  breadcrumbs  that  have  been  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and, 
if  desired,  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper.  Leave  the  cutlets  for  twenty  or 
twenty-five  minutes,  then  egg  and  breadcrumb  them  again,  proceeding  as  before; 
leave  again  for  half  an  hour,  then  give  them  a  third  coating  of  egg  and  bread 
crumbs.  Place  a  large  lump  of  butter  or  clarified  fat  in  a  large  stewpan,  place  it 
over  the  fire  until  a  blue  smoke  arises,  then  put  in  the  cutlets  and  fry  to  a  nice 
brown.  When  done  drain  the  cutlets  on  a  sheet  of  kitchen  paper  for  a  minute, 
stick  one  of  the  whitened  bones  in  each  and  fasten  a  small  paper  frill  round  them. 
Pile  some  mashed  potatoes  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  lean  the  cutlets  against 
them,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  demi-glaze  sauce. 

Lamb    Cutlets  in    Papers. 

Take  the  fat  and  skin  from  three  cutlets,  and  dust  with  pepper  and  salt.  Put 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan,  and  place  it  on  the  fire,  when  it  has 


172 


LAMB. 


melted  sufficiently  put  in  the  cutlets,  and  fry  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  one  teaspoonful  of  finely  minced  parsley,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  dust  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook  for 
another  five  minutes.  Remove  the  cutlets  and  add  four  tablespoonfuls  each  of  glaze 
and  water  to  the  liquor  in  the  pan,  stir  well  until  the  glaze  is  melted,  and  then  cool. 
Fold  as  many  sheets  of  paper  as  there  are  cutlets  to  the  size  of  note  paper,  and  cut 
them  so  that  when  they  open  they  will  be  in  the  shape  of  a  heart.  Place  them  in 
warm  butter,  and  allow  them  to  stand  for  a  little  time.  When  the  sauce  is  cold  spread 
it  over  the  cutlets,  and  place  them  one  at  a  time  on  the  side  of  the  papers,  with  the 
bones  turned  toward  the  point  of  the  heart.  When  all  are  thus  prepared  range  them 
on  a  baking-sheet  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Dress  them  on  a  dish  in  a 
circle,  and  fill  up  the  hollow  with  fried  potatoes. 


Lamb    Cutlets,  Jardiniere. 


Select  a  dozen  or  so  of  lamb  cutlets,  trim  them  to  a  like  shape  and  size,  dust  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  place  them  in  the  bottom  of  a  flat  stewpan;  put  a  small  lump  of 
butter  in  with  and  fry  over  a  clear  fire.  When  done  on  one  side  turn  over  and  cook 
the  other.  After  the  meat  is  done  strain  the  butter  off  the  cutlets,  put  in  a  little 
melted  glaze,  and  turn  them  about  over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Mash  some 
boiled  potatoes,  and  form  them  in  a  border  on  a  hot  dish;  arrange  the  cutlets  in 
a  circle  on  the  border,  fill  the  center  with  a  garnish  of  new  vegetables,  and  serve  with 
a  sauceboatful  of  freshly  made  gravy  well  thickened. 

Lamb    Cutlets,  Villeroy. 

Trim  the  desired  number  of  lamb  cutlets,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump 
of  butter,  and  fry;  when  cooked,  press  them  between  two  plates  to  cool.  Trim  the 
cutlets  again,  dip  them  in  a  little  villeroy  sauce,  sprinkle  over  them  some  fine  herbs, 
place  them  on  a  cold  baking  sheet,  and  let  the  sauce  set;  lay  some  breadcrumbs  over 
the  sauce.  Put  some  lard  or  butter  into  a  fryingpan,  and  when  it  is  boiling  put  the 
cutlets  in,  and  fry  both  sides  equally  until  nicely  browned.  Place  a  folded  napkin  on 
a  hot  dish,  drain  the  cutlets,  put  them  on  it,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Lamb   Cutlets  with   Asparagus. 

Cut  into  one-half  inch  lengths  the  heads  of  a  bundle  of  asparagus;  also  cut  into 
lengths  of  the  same  size  as  much  of  the  stalks  as  is  eatable,  and  boil  them  separately 
in  salt  and  water;  when  cooked  drain,  place  them  in  separate  fryingpans  with  a  little 
butter,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  toss  them  about  over  the  fire.  Trim 
the  cutlets,,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  butter  to  a  pale  golden 
brown.  When  cooked  drain  the  cutlets  on  a  sheet  of  paper  before  a  clear  fire  for  a 


LAMB.  173 

second,  and  then  form  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  pile  the  asparagus  in  the  center, 
arranging  the  heads  on  top,  and  serve. 

Lamb   Cutlets   with   Spinach. 

Cut  a  neck  of  lamb  into  cutlets,  trim  them  to  a  nice  shape,  brush  over  with  warm 
butter  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  put  them  in  a  double  gridiron  and  broil  in 
front  of  a  clear  fire.  Pick  the  spinach  and  wash  it  in  a  great  many  waters,  as  it  will 
be  hard  to  clean  without  doing  so;  boil  it,  and  when  it  is  cooked  drain  it  on  a  hair 
sieve.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  into  a  saucepan  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed;  pass  the  spinach  through  the  sieve  into  the  butter, 
moisten  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Pile  the 
spinach  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  cutlets  around  it,  and  serve. 

Epigrammes   of  Lamb   with   Asparagus   Tops. 

Braise  a  small  piece  of  breast  of  lamb,  and  when  it  is  cooked  take  it  out  of  the 
pan  and  place  it  between  two  dishes  with  a  weight  on  the  top  and  leave  until  cold. 
Afterwards  cut  the  lamb  into  equal-sized  pieces,  trim  them  to  a  cutlet  shape  and  fix  a 
bone  in  each  like  a  cutlet.  Trim  an  equal  number  of  lambs  cutlets  and  make  them 
into  equal  pieces,  and  fry  them.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice,  dip  in  well-beaten  egg  and  roll  in  breadcrumbs,  giving  a  good  coating. 
Place  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  frying  pan,  and  when  melted  place  it  on  the  cutlets, 
and  fry  until  they  are  a  light  golden  brown  on  either  side,  draining  well  as  they  are 
cooked.  Arrange  the  cutlets  on  a  hot  dish,  put  some  boiled  heads  of  asparagus  in 
the  center,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Epigrammes   of  Lamb   with   Macedoine. 

Tie  two  breasts  of  lamb  together  and  boil  them  in  a  stock-pot  for  forty-five 
minutes.  Drain  well,  then  take  out  the  bones,  and  place  a  heavy  weight  on  it.  When 
quite  cold,  cut  each  breast  into  three  heart  shaped  pieces,  dip  them  in  oil  or  fat,  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  pepper,  roll  in  breadcrumbs,  and  broil  over  a  slow  fire  for  four 
minutes  each  side.  Take  six  broiled  breaded  lamb  chops,  prepare,  and  cook  exactly 
the  same,  and  serve  with  half  pint  of  hot  macedoine  or  any  other  garnishing  that  may 
be  liked;  arrange  the  breasts  and  chops  on  the  garnishing, 

Fricassee   of  Lamb, 

Cut  the  breast  of  a  lamb  into  square  pieces,  sprinkle  salt  and  flour  over,  and 
brown  in  a  little  butter.  Place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  sliced  onion  and  a  little 
water,  and  simmer  until  the  bones  will  slip  out  easily.  Take  the  lamb  out,  remove 
the  bones,  strain  the  liquor,  and  pour  off  the  fat.  Boil  the  liquor  over  again,  put  in 


174  LAMB. 

the  meat  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  for  a  little  while  longer;  then  add 
one  quart  of  peas,  and  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  When  ready  to  serve  turn  the 
meat  onto  a  hot  dish. 

Hashed  Lamb. 

Fry  two  chopped  onions  in  a  saucepan  with  about  one  ounce  of  butter,  add  one 
pint  of  cooked  chopped  potatoes,  and  one-half  pound  of  cooked  hashed  lamb,  season 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  one-half  teaspoonful 
of  nutmeg.  Moisten  with  one-half  pint  of  broth,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Put  the 
hash  on  a  hot  dish,  and  arrange  half  a  dozen  poached  eggs  on  top.  Serve  sprinkled 
over  with  chopped  parsley. 

Roasted   Haunch   of  Lamb. 

Trim  the  shank  bone  of  a  haunch  of  lamb,  fold  the  loan  underneath,  fasten  it 
with  skewers,  season  and  roast  in  a  pan  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  often  with  butter. 
When  it  is  nearly  cooked  sprinkle  some  stale  breadcrumbs  and  a  little  salt  over, 
baste  with  butter  and  let  the  joint  brown.  Put  the  haunch  on  a  hot  dish,  tie  a  ruffle 
around  the  bone,  make  a  rich  gravy,  and  serve  it  with  the  meat,  also  some  mint  sauce, 
both  being  placed  in  sauceboats. 

Broiled   Lambs'    Kidneys,  Maitre   d'Hotel. 

Plunge  the  kidneys  into  boiling  water  for  an  instant,  split  down  the  middle  with- 
out cutting  them  clear  through,  skin  and  run  a  fine  skewer  through  each  to  keep 
them  flat.  Season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  warm  a  little  butter  and  brush  over 
them.  Lay  them  on  a  well-greased,  hot  gridiron,  the  cut  side  downwards  ;  when 
that  side  is  done,  turn  them  over  and  cook  the  other  side.  Remove  the  skewers,  lay 
the  kidneys,  hollow  side  up,  on  a  hot  dish,  put  a  little  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  each, 
and  serve. 

Broiled   Lambs'  Kidneys  with   Colbert  Sauce. 

Split  open  eight  or  nine  kidneys,  skin  them,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  moisten 
them  well  with  sweet  oil.  Dust  over  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful 
of  pepper  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg.  Take  eight  silver  skewers,  run  each 
skewer  through  the  center  of  a  kidney  (which  should  be  split  partly  open),  roll  them 
in  breadcrumbs  and  broil  them  over  a  moderate  fire  for  about  five  minutes  on  either 
side.  Place  them  on  a  very  hot  dish  on  which  has  been  previously  poured  one-half 
pint  of  hot  Colbert  sauce,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 


Deviled   Lambs'    Kidneys. 


Skin  and  pare  a  dozen  kidneys,  without  separating  the  parts,  and  run  the  skewers 
through  as  for  broiled  lambs'  kidneys  with  Colbert  sauce.      Broil  them  a  little  for  one 


LAMB.  175 

minute  on  either  side,  then  stir  together  in  a  dish  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  Parisian  sauce,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  little  mignonette  pepper.  Roll  the  kidneys  well  in  this  and  then  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  finish  by  broiling  them  once  more  for  three  or  four  minutes.  Pour  over 
a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  serve. 

Fried   Lambs'    Kidneys  with   Bread   Croutons. 

Skin  and  trim  the  fat  off  the  kidneys,  cut  each  one  into  halves  lengthwise,  place 
them  in  a  fryingpan  with  one  or  two  finely-chopped  shallots  and  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  them.  When  the  shallots  are  nicely 
browned  and  the  kidneys  are  cooked  remove  them  from  the  fire  and  baste  with  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  glaze.  Fry  in  hot  fat  half  a  dozen  croutons  of  bread,  and 
when  brown  and  crisp  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze; 
place  the  kidneys  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  squeeze  over  them  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  garnish  with  croutons  of  bread,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Lambs'  Kidneys. 

Pare,  trim  and  skim  a  dozen  kidneys,  cut  them  into  slices  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes in  a  fryingpan  with  one  ounce  of  clarified  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Brown  well  and  then  add  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce 
and  four  mushrooms  cut  into  pieces.  Warm  without  boiling,  add  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Leg  of  Lamb. 

Sprinkle  a  leg  of  lamb  with  salt,  place  it  in  a  bowl  with  enough  soft  water  to 
cover,  add  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice,  and  let  the  lamb  steep  for  an  hour. 
Then  dry  it,  dredge  with  flour,  wrap  it  in  a  piece  of  linen,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  water  to  cover,  and  boil  it  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  more 
or  less,  according  to  the  size  of  the  joint.  When  cooked  remove  the  cloth,  place  the 
lamb  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley  and  thin  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve  with  a 
sauceboatful  of  caper  sauce. 

Broiled   Lambs'  Liver. 

Cut  the  liver  into  rather  thin  slices,  and  allow  them  to  macerate  in  oil  and 
chopped  parsley  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  the  slices,  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper, 
roll  them  in  grated  breadcrumbs,  lay  them  on  a  gridiron,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 
Put  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  to  melt,  and  mix  with  it  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
When  the  slices  of  liver  are  cooked,  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  butter  over, 
and  serve. 


176  LAMB. 

Fried   Lambs'  Liver. 

Wash  thoroughly  some  lambs'  liver,  cut  it  into  slices,  and  rub  them  well  on  both 
sides  with  pepper,  salt  and  flour.  Place  a  large  lump  of  fat  in  a  fryingpan  and 
make  it  hot.  Dip  the  fillets  into  beaten  eggs,  plunge  them  into  the  fat,  and  fry  them. 
Drain  the  slices  of  liver,  dust  a  little  salt  over,  and  put  them  on  a  hot  dish  on  which 
has  been  laid  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  quarters  of  lemon,  and  serve. 

Minced  Lamb  with   Poached  Eggs. 

Take  some  cold  roasted  lamb,  trim  and  chop  it  very  fine,  season  with  pepper, 
salt  and  a  little  finely  chopped  mint.  Make  some  gravy  very  hot  in  a  saucepan, 
thicken  it  with  browned  flour,  stir  in  the  seasoned  meat,  and  let  it  get  hot.  Make 
some  triangles  of  buttered  toast,  lay  a  poached  egg  on  each,  pour  the  mince  into  a 
flat  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  toast  and  poached  eggs. 

Pilau  of  Lamb. 

Cut  the  meat  of  a  leg  of  lamb  into  small  pieces,  and  make  a  little  broth  with  the 
bones.  Cut  half  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon  in  squares  and  fry  in  a  stewpan  with  one 
chopped  onion ;  put  the  pieces  of  lamb  in  with  it,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  and  fry 
over  a  brisk  fire  for  ten  minutes.  Cover  the  lamb  with  the  broth  that  has  been  pre- 
pared from  the  bones.  Skin  and  chop  two  ripe  tomatoes  and  after  picking  out  the 
seeds,  put  them  in  with  the  lamb,  adding  two  green  peppers,  cut  up  a  bunch  of  fine 
herbs,  a  sprig  or  two  of  parsley  and  a  pinch  of  saffron  ;  when  the  broth  has  boiled 
for  five  minutes  throw  in  some  rice,  put  the  lid  on  the  stewpan,  move  it  to  the  side  of 
the  fire,  and  let  the  contents  stew  for  twenty  minutes  or  until  the  rice  is  quite  tender. 
When  ready  to  serve  turn  the  pilau  out  onto  a  hot  dish. 

Roasted   Forequarter  of  Lamb. 

Cover  a  forequarter  of  lamb  with  slices  of  bacon,  and  wrap  it  up  in  a  sheet  of 
buttered  paper.  Roast  in  the  oven,  and  when  it  is  cooked  enough,  raise  the  shoulder 
from  the  neck  with  a  knife,  fill  the  cavity  with  butter,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Roasted    Hindquarter  of  Lamb. 

Select  a  hindquarter  of  lamb,  trim  the  bone,  fix  the  lamb  in  a  roastingpan  and 
roast  it  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  often  with  butter;  when  nearly  done  sprinkle  with 
breadcrumbs,  baste  again  to  brown,  and  sprinkle  salt  over.  V/hen  the  lamb  is 
cooked  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  surround  with  a  rich  gravy,  and  serve  with  mint  sauce. 


LAMB.  177 

Roasted    Hindquarter  of  Lamb  with  Celery. 

Truss  the  joint,  range  it  in  a  bakingpan  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven.  Clean  and 
trim  three  fresh  heads  of  celery,  cutting  off  the  tops  and  the  outside  leaves,  put  them 
for  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water,  then  refresh  them  with  cold  water,  and  tie  together 
in  bundles.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  sliced  carrots,  an 
onion,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  chicken  broth,  half  a  pint 
of  water  and  one  teacupful  of  clarified  butter  ;  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  over  the  whole, 
put  the  lid  on  the  saucepan,  and  keep  the  contents  cooking  gently  by  the  side  of  the 
fire.  When  the  lamb  is  cooked,  remove  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  celery 
around,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboat  of  half  glaze. 

Roasted  Saddle   of  Lamb. 

The  saddle  of  lamb  is  simply  the  two  loins  cut  off  before  the  carcass  is  split 
open  down  the  back  ;  it  is  best  when  roasted  before  an  open  fire,  but  it  may  be 
cooked  in  a  very  hot  oven.  If  medium  size  it  will  cook  in  an  hour  and  a  half,  but  if 
large  it  will  require  two  hours.  It  should  first  be  exposed  to  intense  heat  until 
browned,  then  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  every  fifteen  minutes  should  be 
basted  with  the  drippings,  which  fall  from  it ;  about  a  half  hour  before  the  loin  is 
done  make  a  sauce  for  it  as  follows  :  Peel  two  large  cucumbers,  cut  them  in  slices, 
and  place  them  in  salted  cold  water.  Peel  and  slice  one  medium-sized  onion,  place 
it  in  a  saucepan  with  the  cucumbers,  with  enough  gravy  to  cover,  and  let  them  stew 
for  fifteen  minutes ;  season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon- 
juice  or  vinegar.  When  the  lamb  is  cooked  dish  it  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with 
cucumbers,  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a  gravy-boat  with  it. 

Roasted  Saddle  and   Leg  of  Lamb. 

Wash,  salt  and  flour  the  meat  and  put  it  in  a  bakingpan  in  a  hot  oven  to  roast, 
basting  often  until  done.  Place  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  it  with  mint  sauce. 

Braised   Shoulder  of  Lamb. 

Remove  the  bone  from  a  shoulder  of  lamb  and  lard  it  with  lightly-seasoned 
strips  of  bacon  fat  in  the  thick  part  of  the  shoulder  ;  roll  the  joint  to  a  good  shape, 
tie  it  round,  put  it  into  a  braisingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  braise  gently  over  a 
moderate  fire  till  browned  all  over.  Put  in  about  eight  small  onions,  a  bundle  of 
chopped  parsley  and  one  quart  of  broth,  place  the  saucepan  by  the  side  of  the  fire  and 
allow  the  contents  to  simmer  until  the  onions  are  tender.  Put  the  meat  onto  a  hot 
dish,  cut  off  the  string  and  garnish  with  the  onions.  Boil  the  cooking  liquor  until  it 
is  reduced  to  a  thick  gravy,  then  pour  it  over  the  lamb,  and  serve. 


178  LAMB. 

Braised    Shoulder  of  Lamb,  African   Style. 

Season  a  shoulder  of  lamb  with  one  pinch  each  of  salt  and  pepper  and  tie  it  up. 
Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  sliced  onion  and  carrot  and  brown  for  six  minutes. 
Moisten  with  one  pint  of  broth  and  Spanish  sauce  and  cook  for  forty-five  minutes. 
Skim  all  the  fat  from  the  gravy,  remove  the  meat  to  a  hot  dish  and  untie  it.  Deco- 
rate the  dish  with  three  stuffed  egg-plants  and  half  a  pint  of  cooked  okra  gumbos. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  the  shoulder  of  lamb,  and  serve. 

Braised   Shoulder   of  Lamb,  Flemish  Style. 

The  same  as  for  braised  shoulder  of  lamb,  African  style,  serving  for  garnishing 
half  a  oint  of  cooked  carrots,  turnips  and  red  cabbage  arranged  around  the  dish. 

Braised   Shoulder  of  Lamb,  Rouennese  Style. 

Braise  a  shoulder  of  lamb,  cut  three  medium-sized  turnips  the  shape  of  a  large 
clove  of  garlic,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  loaf-sugar  on  top.  Put  them  in  the  oven  and  leave  until  they  become  thor- 
oughly brown,  moving  the  pan  often  to  prevent  burning.  Put  the  gravy  from  the 
meat  over  the  turnips,  dish  up  the  shoulder,  and  serve. 

Roasted   Shoulder  of  Lamb   and   Mint   Sauce. 

Wash  a  shoulder  of  lamb,  dredge  both  sides  with  salt  and  flour,  fix  it  on  a  ba- 
kingpan,  with  a  little  hot  water  dripping  and  salt,  and  then  roast  in  a  brick  oven,  bast- 
ing occasionally  until  done.  Place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  mint  sauce. 

Lamb   Stewed  with  Tomatoes. 

Divide  a  saddle  of  lamb  into  moderate-sized  quarters,  remove  part  of  the  bones, 
and  put  the  meat  into  a  flat  stewpan  with  a  clove  of  unpeeled  garlic,  one  onion  and  a 
lump  of  butter;  season  well  and  toss  over  the  fire  until  nicely  browned.  Cut  four  to- 
matoes in  halves,  take  out  the  seeds  and  cut  them  into  quarters.  Place  a  little  oil  in 
a  fryingpan,  when  hot  put  the  tomatoes  in  and  fry  over  a  sharp  fire  until  the  moisture 
is  reduced,  then  turn  them  in  with  the  lamb,  stir  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes,  take 
the  onion  and  garlic  out,  place  the  lamb  and  tomatoes  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Baked    Lambs'  Sweetbreads. 

Clean  the  sweetbreads,  washing  them  in  plenty  of  water,  then  steep  them  in  wa- 
ter for  an  hour  or  more.  Drain  the  sweetbreads  and  blanch  them  in  boiling  water  un- 
til firm,  then  boil  them  slowly  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  drain  and  wipe  the  sweet- 
breads on  a  cloth;  roll  them  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  then  put  in  plenty  of 


LAMB.  179 

grated  breadcrumbs,  and  place  them  in  a  quick  oven  until  nicely  browned.  Boil  one 
wineglassful  of  sherry  wine  with  one-half  pint  of  gravy,  arrange  the  sweetbreads  in  a 
group  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve  at  once. 

Fricassee  of  Lambs'  Sweetbreads. 

Blanch  three  lambs'  sweetbreads,  parboil  them  in  broth  or  stock,  and  cut  into 
slices.  Roll  them  well  in  flour  and  if  the  slices  are  too  thick  cut  them  in  halves.  Put 
them  into  a  fryingpan  with  butter  and  a  few  bearded  oysters  and  fry  to  a  yellow 
color.  Then  drain  off  the  butter,  pour  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  rich  gravy,  add  a 
few  asparagus  points,  two  or  three  finely  chopped  chives  or  shallots,  season  with  pep- 
per, salt  and  grated  nutmeg.  Pour  in  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  and  simmer  for 
ten  minutes  or  so.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  basin,  add  a  little  of  the  broth 
and  then  stir  it  in  with  the  remainder,  replace  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  stir, 
without  boiling,  until  the  gravy  is  moderately  thick.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  slices 
of  lemon  for  a  garnish. 

Lambs'  Sweetbreads  in   Cases. 

Blanch,  pare  and  clean  half  a  dozen  lambs'  sweetbreads.  Lay  them  aside  to  cool, 
then  lard  them  with  either  fresh  fat  pork  or  truffles.  Place  them  in  a  well  buttered 
stewpan,  adding  one  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  one  gill  of  chicken  broth.  Cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  and  let  them  cook  to  a  golden  color  in  the  oven  for  ten  min- 
utes, then  place  them  on  a  dish.  Put  one-half  gill  of  cooked  fine  herbs,  and  one  gill 
of  reduced  Spanish  sauce  into  the  pan,  allowing  it  to  cook  for  five  minutes.  Take 
six  small  buttered  paper  cases,  pour  a  little  of  the  gravy  at  the  bottom  of  each,  fill  in 
with  sweetbreads,  and  place  them  on  a  bakingdish;  keep  them  in  an  open  oven  for 
five  minutes,  then  serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Lambs'   Sweetbreads  in  Shells. 

Boil  sixteen  lambs'  sweetbreads,  using  care  not  to  overdo  them;  when  cold  cut 
them  into  dice,  and  mix  with  them  one-third  of  their  quantity  of  cooked  mushrooms, 
keeping  them  covered.  Pour  a  little  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan  allow  it  to 
reduce,  gradually  mixing  it  with  the  cooking  stock  of  the  lambs'  sweetbreads,  so  as 
to  get  half  a  brown  sauce.  When  it  thickens  and  coats  the  spoon,  put  the  mushrooms 
and  sweetbreads  in  with  it  and  remove  it  from  the  fire  at  once.  Secure  some  large 
table-shells,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  smoothing  it  on  the  top,  sprinkle  grated 
breadcrumb  over,  pour  one  tablespoonful  of  warmed  butter  into  each,  and  bake  until 
browned  in  a  quick  oven.  Arrange  the  shells  on  a  fancy  paper  over  a  dish,  and  serve, 

Stewed  Lambs'  Sweetbreads. 

Blanch  the  sweetbreads  and  steep  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  then  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  button  onions,  boiled  asparagus  tops,  and  a  small  piece 


i8o  LAMB. 

of  mace  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  together 
with  one-half  teacupful  of  cream  and  one  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley. 
Knead  one  ounce  of  flour,  put  it  in  with  the  sweetbreads,  and  let  them  simmer  at  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  half  an  hour.  Stir  in  the  eggs,  cream  and  parsley  with  the  sweet- 
breads, grate  in  a  small  quantity  of  nutmeg,  and  stir  the  sauce  at  the  side  of  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again  or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  When  ready 
place  the  sweetbreads  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Timbale  of  Lambs'  Sweetbreads. 

Take  a  timbale  mould,  line  it  with  short  paste,  having  previously  buttered  it, 
and  put  a  layer  of  forcemeat  mixed  with  chives,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  lean  raw 
ham  inside.  Blanch  a  score  of  lambs'  sweetbreads,  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk  fire  in 
bacon  fat  until  well  browned  ;  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper,  take  them  off  the  fire, 
and  let  them  cool.  Put  them  in  layers  in  the  timbale  mould,  alternating  each  layer 
with  the  forcemeat.  Put  a  layer  of  forcemeat  on  the  top,  cover  the  mould  with  a 
round  of  paste,  fixing  it  carefully  to  the  sides,  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake 
for  about  one  hour.  When  cooked  turn  the  timbale  out  of  the  mould,  make  a  hole 
in  the  top,  pour  in  a  little  thickened  gravy,  put  back  the  round  that  has  been  removed, 
garnish  with  mushrooms  and  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 

Lambs'  Sweetbreads  with   Villeroy  Sauce. 

Select  the  desired  quantity  of  sweetbreads,  blanch  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan, 
adding  broth  to  half  their  height,  boil  till  tender  and  the  gravy  is  reduced.  Put  the 
sweetbreads  between  two  plates,  and  leave  till  cold.  Cut  each  sweetbread  in  two, 
dip  them  in  villeroy  sauce,  and  place  them  on  a  baking  sheet.  When  the  sauce  has 
cooled  on  them,  take  them  from  the  baking  sheet  with  the  aid  of  a  knife,  roll  them 
in  breadcrumbs  again,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat ;  when  nicely  browned  all  over,  drain, 
arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Boiled  Lambs'  Tongues. 

Put  half  a  dozen  or  so  of  lambs'  tongues  into  a  saucepan  with  enough  cold  water 
to  cover  them,  and  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and 
boil  the  tongues  until  tender,  place  them  on  a  dish  when  drained,  and  serve  either  hot 
or  cold;  if  the  latter,  tartar  sauce  should  accompany  them. 


Glazed  Lambs'  Tongues. 


Put  two  or  three  glazed  lambs'  tongues  of  a  good  pink  color  into  a  saucepan  of 
water  and  boil  for  two  hours,  take  them  out,  skin,  and  cut  them  lengthwise  into 
halves.  Place  them  in  a  pan  with  a  little  meat  glaze  over,  cover  well,  and  brown  in 


LAMB.  181 

the   oven.      Put  them  on  a  dish  and  serve,  with  spinach  and  boiled  artichokes  for  a 
garnish. 

Pickled   Lambs'  Tongues. 

Place  six  or  eight  lambs'  tongues  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  salted  water  to 
cover,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  boil  until  they  are  tender,  which  should  take 
about  two  hours.  Remove  them,  place  them  in  a  jar,  pour  sufficient  hot  spiced 
vinegar  to  cover,  and  allow  them  to  remain  for  several  days,  when  they  will  be  ready 
for  use. 

Stewed   Lambs'   Tongues. 

Place  six  lambs'  tongues  in  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  for  an  hour  and  a  half; 
take  them  out,  plunge  into  cold  water,  take  out  again  and  skin.  Place  a  little  more 
than  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  with  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  two 
slices  of  carrot  and  three  of  turnip,  and  cook  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Sprinkle  in  three  tablegpoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  well  until  it  is  brown,  pour  in  a  quart 
of  stock,  boil  it  up,  put  in  the  tongue,  and  sprinkle  over  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a 
little  pepper,  and  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Place  the  saucepan  at  the  side  of  the 
fire,  and  let  it  simmer  for  two  hours.  When  they  are  done,  put  the  tongues  in  the 
center  of  the  dish,  garnish  with  a  vegetable,  strain  the  gravy  over,  and  serve. 


Mutton. 

Sheep's   Brains,    Poulette. 


Cleanse  the  brains  by  placing  them  in  boiling  water,  wash  them  well  in  cold 
water  and  let  them  drain.  Prepare  in  a  stewpan  a  quantity  of  sauce  with  a  little  stock 
thickened  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  a  little  butter,  cream  and  flour,  also  two  or  three 
small  onions  finely  minced,  boiled  and  mashed,  a  few  small  mushrooms,  a  squeeze  of 
lemon  juice  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Pour  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  over 
each  brain,  sprinkle  a  little  marjoram  and  sage  over  them,  then  put  the  brains  into 
the  sauce,  and  allow  them  to  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Remove  them 
when  done,  and  place  them  on  a  dish.  Boil  up  the  sauce,  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 

Sheep's   Brains  with   Remoulade   Sauce. 

Steep  four  or  five  sheep's  brains  in  cold  water,  remove  the  skin,  and  place  them 
in  fresh  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Put  some  vegetables  cut  in  pieces  into  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water  for  an  hour,  and  add  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira  or 
white  wine  and  a  little  salt.  Boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  brains,  and  boil 
again  for  ten  minutes  ;  take  out  the  brains,  drain  them,  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  mask 
with  hot  remoulade  sauce. 

Baked   Breast   of  Mutton. 

Sew  up  a  breast  of  mutton  in  a  very  thin  cloth,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  pour  over 
sufficient  water  to  nearly  cover  it,  and  let  it  stew  very  slowly,  allowing  ten  minutes 
to  each  pound,  counting  from  the  time  the  water  begins  to  simmer.  Remove  it  from 
the  saucepan,  take  off  the  cloth,  put  it  in  a  baking-dish,  rub  it  over  with  warm  drip- 
ping or  butter,  sprinkle  on  some  flour,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour,  basting  often  with 
its  own  broth.  Five  minutes  before  removing  it  from  the  oven,  strew  fine  dry  bread- 
crumbs thickly  over  it,  add  small  pieces  of  butter  here  and  there,  and  let  it  brown. 
Put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  slices  of  beet  root,  and  serve. 

Braised   Breast   of  Mutton. 

Partly  boil  it  the  day  before  needed  so  as  to  more  easily  free  it  of  its  superfluous 
fat,  cut  it  into  pieces,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  lay 
over  them  three  onions  cut  in  slices.  Place  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  the  meat 

182 


MUTTON.  183 

cook  slowly  for  about  three  hours,  when  it  should   be  done ;  its  own  juices  and  fat 
will  be  quite  sufficient  moisture.      Place  the  meat  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Breast  of  Mutton  with   Caper  Sauce. 

Cut  off  the  fat  from  a  breast  of  mutton,  and  bone  the  joint.  Take  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  herbs  and  a  couple  of  sprigs  of  parsley,  chop  fine,  mix  them  with 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  a 
layer  of  this  mixture  over  the  boned  meat,  and  tie  around  with  string.  Put  it  in  a 
saucepan  of  water  and  boil  very  slowly  over  a  moderate  fire  for  two  hours  or  until  the 
meat  is  done.  Put  it  on  a  dish,  remove  the  string,  pour  over  a  little  caper  sauce  and 
serve  with  more  of  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Stewed   Breast   of  Mutton. 

Bone  and  score  a  breast  of  mutton,  season  it  well  with  cayenne,  black  pepper 
and  salt,  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  good  supply  of  gravy  that  has  had  the  fat 
skimmed  off ;  boil  until  tender  and  place  on  a  dish.  Slice  a  few  gherkins  and  add 
them  with  one  dessertspoonful  of  mushroom  catsup  to  the  gravy ;  boil  up  again  and 
pour  the  gravy  over  when  ready. 

Braised   Mutton    Chops. 

Cut  the  chops  off  a  rack  of  mutton  without  flattening  them,  remove  a  part  of 
the  flat  bone  at  the  end,  also  a  part  of  their  fat.  Put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
pieces  cut  off  them,  add  three  sliced  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  small  quantity 
of  carrots;  season  with  spice  and  salt,  add  four  or  five  tablespoonfuls  of  broth  to 
braise  them.  When  they  are  well  done  remove  and  place  on  a  strainer  to  drain  and 
cool.  Pass  the  liquor  through  a  fine  sieve  and  reduce  it  to  a  glaze,  place  the  chops 
in  this  and  dish  in  a  circle,  with  the  onion  sauce  poured  in  the  center. 

Mutton   Chops   Breaded   and   Sauted. 

Flatten  eight  thick  mutton  chops,  pare  nicely  and  season  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  roll  in  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  place  in  a  sautepan  with  an  ounce  of  clarified  butter.  Cook  for  four 
minutes  on  each  side,  and  serve  with  one-half  pint  of  any  sauce  or  garnishing  required. 

Broiled   Mutton   Chops. 

Cut  the  chops  from  the  loin  or  from  the  rack  and  remove  some  of  the  fat  if 
necessary.  Sprinkle  slightly  with  pepper,  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  good  clear 
fire,  turning  two  or  three  times,  and  cook  evenly.  When  done  put  them  on  a  hot 


1 84  MUTTON. 

dish,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  put  a  small  lump  of  butter  on  each   and  serve  very 
hot.     Garnish  with  sliced  okras  and  stuffed  egg  plants. 

Broiled   Mutton   Chops,  Brittany   Style. 

Pare  six  mutton  chops,  season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  pepper  and  pour 
a  few  drops  of  oil  over  each.  Broil  four  minutes  on  each  side,  place  on  a  dish  and 
serve  with  one-half  pint  of  puree  of  white  beans  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot 
meat  glaze. 

Broiled   Mutton   Chops,  Provincial   Style. 

Flatten  and  pare  nicely  six  mutton  chops  and  season  them  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper ;  oil  slightly  with  sweet  oil  and  then  either  boil  or  cook  them  in  a  stewpan 
for  two  minutes,  on  one  side  only,  and  lay  them  aside  to  get  cold.  Spread  over 
them  some  provincial  garnishing  to  about  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness  and  sprinkle 
with  breadcrumbs  mixed  with  a  little  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Place  the  chops 
carefully  in  a  well-buttered  pan,  pour  over  them  a  little  clarified  butter  and  place  in  a 
very  hot  oven  for  five  minutes  or  until  of  a  good  color.  Serve  with  one-half  pint  of 
hot  veloute  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Broiled   Mutton   Chops,  Soyer. 

Take  five  pounds  of  saddle  of  mutton,  cut  and  saw  it  crosswise  into  six  pieces, 
flatten,  pare,  and  trim  them,  season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  pepper.  Broil  them  for  six  minutes  on  each  side,  then  place  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  with  a  garnishing  of  a  pint  of  fried  potatoes  placed  around  the  dish, 

Fried   Mutton   Chops. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  broiled  mutton  chops,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  and  cook ; 
when  done  the  hot  fat  must  be  poured  away  and  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  good  stock, 
or  water  slightly  warmed,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  catsup  or  other  flavoring  added. 
Boil  this  stock  up  after  removing  the  chops,  and  either  pour  it  over  them  or  serve 
separately. 

Fried   Mutton  Chops,  Soubise  Sauce. 

Peel  two  large  Spanish  onions,  two  carrots  and  two  small  turnips,  and  cut  the 
carrots  and  turnips  into  small  balls  with  a  vegetable  cutter.  Boil  them  separately  in 
salted  water  until  tender.  Trim  off  the  fat  from  eight  mutton  chops,  dip  them  in 
well-beaten  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs  that  have  been  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper ;  put  a  lump  of  clarified  fat  in  a  fryingpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  till  blue 
smoke  arises,  put  in  the  chops  and  fry  them  brown  on  both  sides.  Drain  the  boiled 
vegetables,  chop  the  onions,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  dredge  them  with  flour  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  pour  in  gradually  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk,  stir  it  over  the 


MUTTON.  185 

fire  until  it  boils  and  thickens,  then  add  two  ounces  of  butter.  Drain  the  cutlets  and 
arrange  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  carrots  and  turnips  in  the  center,  pour  the 
onion  sauce  round,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Mutton   Chops,  Maintenon  Style. 

Cut  off  some  mutton  chops  of  equal  thickness,  and  butter  them  well.  Chop  some 
parsley,  sweet  herbs,  and  shallots  very  fine,  mix  well  together  and  cover  the  chops 
with  this.  Put  the  chops  in  a  pan  and  fry  until  three  parts  done,  take  them  out, 
brush  over  with  egg,  sprinkle  over  breadcrumbs,  and  some  more  herbs  if  there 
is  not  sufficient  adhering  to  them.  Wrap  each  chop  in  buttered  or  oiled  paper,  put 
them  in  a  pan  and  broil  until  quite  done.  Whole  capers,  with  a  little  of  their  vinegar 
seasoned  with  cayenne,  may  be  served  with  them,  or  some  of  the  liquor  from  the 
chops,  skimmed,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  veal  gravy  added  and  made  hot,  and  then 
seasoned  with  a  little  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  may  be  served  in  a  sauceboat. 

Mutton   Cromeskies. 

Trim  off  the  skin  and  fat  from  some  cold  mutton  and  mince  the  lean  finely; 
place  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  over  the 
fire  until  well  mixed,  then  pour  in  gradually  a  good  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  nicely 
flavored  stock.  Stir  it  until  boiling,  then  put  in  the  mince  with  a  moderate  quantity 
each  of  chopped  thyme  and  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  sprinkle  on  a  little 
grated  nutmeg.  Let  it  heat  slowly  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  then  stir  in  the  beaten  yolk 
of  an  egg.  Cut  some  slices  of  mutton  fat  about  two  and  one-half  inches  long  and 
two  inches  wide,  place  a  small  bit  of  the  mince  on  each  and  roll  them  up  tightly, 
tying  them  round  with  fine  twine.  In  the  course  of  an  hour's  time  dip  each  of  the 
cromeskies  in  good  frying  batter,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  plenty  of  boiling  fat 
and  fry  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  the  cromeskies  as  free  from  fat  as  possible,  pile 
them  on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  a  border 
of  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Curried   Mutton.' 

Chop  a  large  onion  and  fry  it  in  a  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Mix  one 
tablespoonful  each  of  curry  powder  and  flour  in  a  basin,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  when  thoroughly  mixed  add  to  the  onion  in  the  pan  and  pour  in  gradually  a  pint 
of  water  or  broth.  Chop  two  pounds  of  lean  mutton  into  small  pieces,  fry  in  a  little 
butter  until  they  are  a  light  brown,  add  to  the  curry  and  simmer  till  tender.  Place 
the  meat  on  a  dish  with  a  border  of  rice  around  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Curried   Mutton    Forcemeat   Balls. 

Place  two  pounds  of  mutton  cut  from  the  leg  into  a  mortar  and  pound  it  to  a 
pulp,  then  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  two 


i86  MUTTON. 

tablespoonfuls  of  fine  breadcrumbs,  a  well  beaten  egg  and  sufficient  gravy  made 
from  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  mutton  to  form  the  whole  into  a  mass. 
Shape  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  large  walnut  and  roll  them  well  in  breadcrumbs. 
Put  four  ounces  of  fat  into  a  fryingpan,  make  it  hot,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  ground 
onions,  one-fourth  tablespoonful  each  of  ground  turmeric  and  chillies,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  ground  ginger  and  peppercorns  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  ground 
garlic.  Fry  these  until  they  color,  sprinkling  over  about  one  tablespoonful  of  water. 
Put  in  the  forcemeat  balls,  salt  to  taste  and  fry  until  they  are  brown;  pour  in  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  mutton  broth,  cover  the  pan  and  simmer  over  a  slow  fire  for  about 
two  hours.  Turn  the  curry  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  border  of  boiled  rice. 

Braised   Mutton   Cutlets. 

Take  about  three  pounds  of  cutlets,  trim  and  put  them  into  a  pan  to  braise. 
When  done,  remove,  place  them  on  a  board  with  a  weight  on  top  to  keep  them  in 
shape  while  they  are  getting  cold.  Trim  them  again,  mask  on  one  side  with  six 
ounces  of  quenelle  forcemeat,  and  then  dip  them  into  a  mixture  of  finely-minced 
tongues  and  truffles.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three  gills  of  brown  sauce, 
cover  with  buttered  paper  and  cook  very  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Place  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes  on  a  dish,  lay  the  cutlets  on  it,  garnish  the  center  with  strips  of 
tongue  and  gherkin  mixed  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  pour  the  sauce  around,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Mutton   Cutlets. 

Season  some  cutlets,  first  dip  them  into  melted  butter,  then  roll  them  in  bread- 
crumbs. Broil  them  over  the  fire  for  about  eight  minutes,  and  place  them  on  a  dish 
around  a  heap  of  potato  balls  piled  up  in  the  center. 

Broiled  Mutton   Cutlets  with   Carrots,   Maitre   d' Hotel. 

Select  some  rather  thick  cutlets  from  a  rack  of  mutton,  trim  to  a  nice  shape, 
removing  nearly  all  the  fat.  Peel  some  new  carrots  and  cut  them  into,  halves,  unless 
they  are  very  small ;  boil  them  in  salted  water  until  tender,  drain  and  put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  some  finely-minced  parsley  and  a  large  piece  of  butter ;  sprinkle 
lightly  with  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  sugar,  and  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  ;  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  nicely  glazed,  then  move  to  one 
side  and  keep  them  warm.  Broil  the  cutlets  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  when 
done  on  one  side.  When  the  cutlets  are  finished  dredge  them  over  with  salt,  arrange 
them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  each  cutlet  overlapping  the  other,  place  the  carrots 
in  the  center,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Mutton    Cutlets  with  Macedoine  of  Vegetables. 

Take  twelve  cutlets  of  equal  size,  trim  off  some  of  the  fat,  sprinkle  them  slightly 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  dip  them  into  warm  butter.  Broil  them  over  a  moderate 


MUTTON.  187 

fire,  turning  frequently,  and  when  they  are  done  put  some  paper  frills  on  the  bones; 
prepare  a  macedoine  of  vegetables  of  different  kinds  and  shades,  thicken  with 
bechamel  sauce  and  reduce  with  a  little  glaze,  pile  it  in  the  center  of  a  large  dish 
and  arrange  the  cutlets  around.  Serve  with  a  boatful  of  half-glaze  separately. 

Broiled   Mutton   Cutlets  with  Mushroom  Sauce. 

Select  the  cutlets  from  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  the  rack,  saw  the  bones 
off  short,  trim  them  in  a  nice  shape,  remove  the  gristle  and  fat,  and  beat  them  flat 
with  a  cutlet  bat.  Take  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  thyme  and  marjoram,  add  some 
grated  breadcrumbs,  mix  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Cover  the  cutlets  with  the  mixture  and  wrap  each 
one  separately  in  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  trim  off  the  stalks  from  one-half  pint  of 
mushrooms,  wash  and  drain  them,  place  in  a  dish  with  one-half  pint  of  nicely  flavored 
gravy  and  boil  until  tender;  put  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour 
into  a  saucepan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  brown,  then  strain  in  the  gravy  from  the 
mushrooms,  stirring  till  it  boils.  Broil  the  cutlets  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire, 
turning  when  done  on  one  side.  When  done  remove  the  paper  and  arrange  the  cut- 
lets in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  mushrooms  in  the  center,  pour  the  sauce  around 
them,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Mutton   Cutlets  with   String   Beans. 

Take  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton  and  cut  it  into  slices  one-third  of  an  inch 
thick;  cut  off  most  of  the  fat,  trim  to  a  nice  shape  and  beat  lightly  with  a  cutlet  bat, 
string  a  sufficient  quantity  of  string  beans,  put  them  whole  into  a  saucepan  with 
plenty  of  boiling  water,  salt  and  boil  until  tender.  When  done  drain  off  the  water, 
put  in  a  large  piece  of  butter,  a  moderate  quantity  of  finely  minced  parsley,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  a  little  pepper,  and  let  them  remain  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 
cutlets  are  ready.  Broil  the  cutlets  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  brisk  fire,  turning 
them  when  done  on  one  side.  Pile  the  beans  on  the  center  of  a  hot  dish  and  arrange 
the  cutlets  around  them.  • 

Broiled   Mutton   Cutlets  with   Tomato   Sauce. 

Trim  the  cutlets  to  a  nice  shape  and  roll  them  in  butter  that  has  been  slightly 
warmed,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  on  both  sides,  place  them  on  a  gridiron 
and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  when  done  on  one  side.  When  broiled  ar- 
range them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  thick  tomato  sauce  in  the  center,  and 
serve. 

Mutton   Cutlets,  Financiere   Style. 

Trim  some  cutlets  and  lard  them  with  strips  of  bacon.  Line  a  stewpan  with  the 
trimmings  of  bacon  and  a  few  slices  of  vegetables,  put  in  the  cutlets  together  with  a 


i88  MUTTON. 

bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  cover  them  with  two  or  three  slices  of  bacon  and  moisten  with 
a  small  quantity  of  stock.  Stand  them  over  a  moderate  fire,  put  hot  ashes  on  the  lid 
of  the  stewpan  and  braise  them  slowly.  Put  two  ounces  of  chopped  raw  ham  into  a 
saucepan  with  some  trimmings  of  truffles  and  mushrooms,  a  few  peppercorns  and  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Pour  in  one-half  pint  of  white  wine  and  one-half  pint  of  stock 
and  reduce  by  boiling  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Stir  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  browned  and  then  mix  in  by 
degrees  one  teacupful  of  stock  and  stir  it  until  boiling  and  thickened.  Strain  the 
reduced  liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  mix  with  it  the  thickened  stock  and  boil  up 
again.  When  cooked,  drain  the  cutlets  and  arrange  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  the  sauce 
over,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Fried   Mutton   Cutlets,  Soubise   Style. 

Saw  off  the  upper  rib-bone  from  a  rack  of  mutton,  leaving  the  cutlet  bones  about 
three  inches  long.  Saw  off  the  spine  bone,  cut  off  the  cutlets,  trim  them  and  with  a 
knife  remove  the  meat  from  the  end  of  the  bone  by  scraping  it,  leaving  about  one- 
half  inch  of  bone  showing.  Place  the  cutlets  in  a  saucepan,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  put  in  one  ounce  of  butter  and  fry  to  a  good  brown  color  on  each  side. 
Place  the  cutlets  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  pour  some  Soubise  sauce  in  the  center,  and 
serve. 

Mutton    Cutlets,  Indian   Style. 

Procure  the  chops  cut  from  the  rack  of  mutton,  trim  off  most  of  the  fat,  scrape  the 
bones  as  clean  as  possible,  and  sprinkle  over  both  sides  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Mash  smoothly  some  cold  boiled  potatoes,  moisten  them  very  slightly  with  milk, 
place  a  layer  of  them  over  both  sides  of  the  cutlet,  smoothing  them  carefully  with 
the  flat  part  of  the  blade  of  a  knife,  completely  covering  the  meat,  and  brush  over 
with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Put  a  fair-sized  lump  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  and  when  blue  smoke  rises  put  in  the  cutlets  and 
fry  them  till  delicately  browned  on  both  sides.  Drain  them  as  they  are  cooked  on  a 
sheet  of  paper,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  leaning  against  a  fried  bread  crouton  on  a 
hot  dish  over  which  has  been  laid  a  folded  napkin,  put  a  group  of  fried  parsley  in  the 
center,  and  serve. 

Mutton   Cutlets,  Jardiniere. 

Peel  three  or  four  young  turnips  and  carrots,  anJ  cut  them  into  small  balls  with 
a  vegetable  cutter ;  boil  these  as  well  as  a  few  button  mushrooms,  French  beans  and 
green  peas  separately  in  stock.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  one 
good  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  browned,  then  pour  in  grad- 
ually one  pint  of  stock  and  continue  stirring  until  boiling.  Drain  the  vegetables 
when  three  parts  cooked,  put  them  into  the  thickened  stock,  and  simmer  gently  until 
quite  tender.  Boil  a  firm  white  head  of  cauliflower  in  clear  water,  with  a  small  lump 


MUTTON.  189 

of  salt  in  it,  trim  the  cutlets  neatly,  beat  them  slightly  with  a  cutlet  bat,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  on  the  fire,  and 
when  hot  lay  on  the  cutlets  and  fry  them  until  nicely  browned,  turning  when  done  on 
one  side.  When  cooked,  drain  the  cutlets  and  place  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
place  the  cauliflower  in  the  center,  garnish  around  with  the  vegetables,  and  serve. 

Mutton    Cutlets,    Maitre   d'Hotel. 

Prepare  the  cutlets  from  a  rack  of  mutton  by  trimming  them  neatly,  cutting  the 
bones  off  fairly  short  and  removing  most  of  the  fat ;  then  beat  them  with  a  cutlet 
bat,  season  on  both  sides  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  for  an 
hour  or  two.  Work  together  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
finely  chopped  parsley,  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  butter  and  a  squeeze  of  lemon 
juice.  Melt  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  put  in  the  cutlets  and  fry  them  until 
well  browned  on  both  sides.  When  cooked,  place  the  cutlets  on  a  hot  dish,  put 
small  pieces  of  the  parsley  butter  over  each,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Mutton    Cutlets,  Marshal   Style. 

Chop  three  ounces  of  raw  veal  fine  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  together  with 
one  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley;  add  to  it  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and 
salt  and  one  saltspoonful  of  nutmeg,  mix,  and  then  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  cream. 
Select  eight  mutton  cutlets,  trim  them  neatly  leaving  on  a  portion  of  the  fat;  beat 
two  eggs,  dip  them  in,  and  roll  them  in  a  mixture  of  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bread- 
crumbs and  rather  more  than  one-half  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper.  Put 
some  clarified  fat  in  a  fryingpan,  and  when  quite  hot  fry  the  cutlets  in  it  for  eight 
minutes,  turning  them  once.  When  fried  remove  them  from  the  pan,  divide  the  veal 
mixture  in  the  mortar  into  eight  equal  quantities,  and  spread  one  on  each  cutlet; 
sprinkle  some  mushrooms  chopped  fine  over  the  veal  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  fairly 
hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Mutton   Cutlets,    Rachel   Style. 

Chop  three  or  four  slices  of  fat  bacon,  fry  them  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then 
put  into  the  pan  one-half  pound  of  chopped  calf's  liver  and  fry  until  the  liver  is 
cooked.  Season  to  taste,  pound  all  to  a  smooth  paste  in  a  mortar,  then  pass  it 
through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Trim  neatly  some  mutton  cutlets  that  have  been  cut  off 
the  rack,  and  fry  them.  When  cooked  drain  the  cutlets  as  free  from  fat  as  possible, 
place  them  between  two  plates  with  a  weight  on  the  top,  and  leave  them  until  cold. 
When  ready  trim  the  cutlets  again,  and  spread  a  layer  of  the  pounded  mixture  on 
one  side  of  each  of  them.  Wrap  them  in  a  piece  of  caul,  and  put  them  in  the  oven 
until  hot.  Brush  them  over  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze,  arrange  in  a 


i9o  MUTTON. 

circle  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round   them,  and  serve  very 
hot,  with  a  sauceboat  of  half  glaze. 

Mutton   Cutlets,  Venetian   Style. 

Select  the  cutlets  from  a  rack  of  mutton,  trim  them  neatly,  scraping  clean  about 
one  inch  of  the  top  of  each  bone,  and  braise  them.  When  cooked  place  them 
between  two  plates  till  'cold;  prepare  a  sufficient  quantity  of  quenelle  forcemeat  to 
spread  over  one  side  of  each  cutlet,  and  mix  with  it  a  small  quantity  of  chopped 
truffles  and  tongue.  Trim  the  cutlets  again,  lay  in  a  stewpan,  and  spread  the  force- 
meat over  them.  Pour  about  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  brown  sauce 
around,  cover  them  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  cook  slowly  over  a  slow  fire 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Cut  some  cooked  tongue  and  gherkins  into  strips,  arrange  the 
cutlets  in  a  circle  around  the  dish,  put  the  strips  of  tongue  and  gherkin  in  the  center, 
pour  the  sauce  around,  and  serve. 

Deviled  Mutton. 

Cut  some  cold  mutton  into  thick  slices  trimming  off  most  of  the  fat,  gash  it 
across  in  several  places  with  a  sharp  knife;  mix  a  coffeespoonful  of  cayenne  pepper 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  black  pepper  and  rub  the  mixture  well  over  the  slices  of 
mutton;  lay  them  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  when  done  on  one 
side.  Put  one-half  teacupful  of  roast-meat  gravy  into  a  small  saucepan  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  sherry  wine,  one-half  tablespoonful  each  of  Worcestershire  and  anchovy 
sauce,  or  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  small  quantity  of  finely-shredded 
lemon  peel.  Place  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  arrange  the  pieces  of  broiled 
meat  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve.  It  will 
be  found  an  improvement  if  the  gravy  can  be  slightly  flavored  with  onion. 

Fried   Fillets   of  Mutton. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  cutlets  from  the  middle  of  a  loin  of  mutton,  remove  the  fat 
and  skin  and  cut  into  slices  about  one-half  inch  thick;  flatten  them  with  a  cutlet  bat 
and  dip  them  into  beaten  egg,  and  then  into  sifted  breadcrumbs.  Sprinkle  lightly 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  let  them  remain  for  about  one  hour.  Put  some  butter  in  a 
fryingpan,  and  when  it  is  hot  put  in  the  fillets  and  fry  on  both  sides  until  they  are 
quite  done  and  of  a  nice  brown  color.  Place  them  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  asparagus, 
seakale  or  cauliflower,  and  serve. 

Fillets   of  Mutton,  Minute  Style. 

Put  some  good  strong  stock  into  a  saucepan,  reduce  it  quickly  to  a  glaze,  add  a 
slice  of  fat  bacon  and  as  many  fillets  of  mutton  as  required.  Cover  over  with  a  piece 
of  well-buttered  paper  and  simmer  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes, 


MUTTON.  191 

when  they  will  be  done  and  well  glazed,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent'  the  bacon 
from  burning.  Place  the  meat  on  a  dish,  add  a  little  stock  to  the  liquor  in  the  pan  to 
heat,  pour  it  over  the  fillets,  and  serve  hot. 

Roasted   Fillet  of  Mutton. 

Cut  off  the  chump  end  of  a  loin  of  mutton,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover 
with  paper,  and  put  it  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  to  roast,  let  it  remain  for  two  hours, 
taking  care  that  it  does  not  brown  in  the  slightest,  and  glaze  it,  put  some  well  drained 
boiled  string  beans,  in  the  gravy,  warm  them  up,  turn  them  out  on  a  dish,  place  the 
meat  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

Roasted   Fore  Quarter  of  Mutton. 

Select  a  young  fore  quarter  of  mutton,  wrap  it  up  in  sheets  of  well  buttered 
paper,  and  put  it  on  the  spit  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  to  roast;  when  done  place  it  on  a 
dish  over  a  puree  of  white  beans,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Fricasseed   Mutton. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  the  breast  of  mutton  into  large  squares,  sprinkle  over  with 
flour  and  salt,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan,  with  a  little  fat  or  butter,  and  fry  until 
brown.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan,  add  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  cover  with  water,  and 
cook  slowly  until  the  bones  can  be  removed  easily.  Strain  the  liquor  and  skim  off  the 
fat,  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan,  and  when  it  boils,  put  in  the  boned  meat,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  add  one  pint  of  green  peas,  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  min- 
utes or  long  enough  to  cook  the  peas,  turn  on  a  dish,  and  serve.  Macaroni  cut  in 
half-inch  pieces,  or  the  tops  of  asparagus  may  be  used  instead  of  the  peas. 

Fricasseed  Mutton  with  Egg-Plant. 

Cut  the  required  quantity  of  mutton  into  small  pieces,  place  in  a  stewpan,  and 
sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper;  shake  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  it  makes  a 
slight  hissing  noise;  add  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  and  fry  until  the  meat  is  nicely 
browned.  Trim  and  slice  four  egg-plants,  rub  them  with  salt  and  leave  them  for 
a  short  time  to  extract  the  bitter  taste;  take  the  pieces  of  meat  out  of  the  fryingpan, 
keep  them  hot,  drain  the  egg-plant  and  fry  it  in  the  remaining  fat  till  well  browned. 
Place  the  pieces  of  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  fried  slices  of  egg-plant  in  a  circle 
around,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Haggis. 

Clean  a  sheep's  paunch  or  stomach,  washing  it  thoroughly  in  several  waters. 
Soak  it  in  salted  water  and  let  it  remain  for  several  hours.  Turn  it  inside  out  and 
scald  it  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water.  Scrape  it  well,  taking  care  not  to  cut  it  or  make 


I92  MUTTON. 

any  thin  sfices  in  it,  as  they  might  burst  in  cooking,  and  place  it  in  cold  water  until 
wanted  for  use.  Clean  a  sheep's  pluck,  and  let  the  blood  ooze  out  of  the  liver  and 
heart  by  pricking  them  all  over  with  a  large  needle.  Put  the  liver  and  lights  into  a 
saucepan  of  water,  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  change  the  water  and  boil  for  fifty 
minutes  longer,  add  the  balance  of  the  pluck,  and  boil  for  another  half-hour,  making 
about  an  hour  and  a  half  in  all.  Remove  any  part  of  the  skin  that  may  be  discolored, 
take  out  the  liver,  cut  it  in  halves,  grate  one-half  of  it,  and  mince  the  other  half  with 
the  remainder  of  the  pluck.  Mince  one  pound  of  beef  suet  and  two  onions  and  mix 
them  in  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  well  dried  oatmeal, 
one-half  tablespoonful  of  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  some  cayenne,  also  a 
little  lemon  juice  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  gravy.  When  they  are  thoroughly 
incorporated  put  the  mixture  into  the  paunch,  sew  it  up,  leave  room  for  swelling 
in  cooking,  plunge  it  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  boil  up,  place  it  at  the  side  of 
the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  about  three  hours,  pricking  it  a  little  when  first 
cooking  to  let  the  air  escape  and  thus  preventing  its  bursting.  As  soon  as  it 
is  taken  out  of  the  saucepan  it  must  be  placed  on  a  dish  and  served.  Sufficient  gravy 
will  be  found  inside  as  soon  as  it  is  cut  without  adding  any  more  to  it.  A  little  beef 
may  also  be  used  in  the  mixture,  though  it  is  not  considered  an  improvement.  If  a 
lamb's  paunch  is  used,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  see  that 
all  the  thin  places  are  well  sewed  up.  A  calf's  paunch  may  also  be  used,  but  the 
sheep's  is  best 

Imitation  Haggis. 

(i).  Mix  mashed  potatoes  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  cooked  beef,  cut 
up  small,  place  this  in  a  baking  dish  with  a  little  butter  on  the  top,  sprinkle  over 
pepper  and  salt  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  until  done. 

(2).  Mince  any  beef  or  mutton,  being  sure  to  have  plenty  of  fat,  and  then 
mix  with  it  half  the  quantity  of  coarse  oatmeal  well  browned  before  a  clear  fire;  add 
a  few  minced  onions  and  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and  salt,  put  the  mixture  into  a 
pie  dish,  place  it  in  the  oven,  bake  half  an  hour,  and  serve. 

Mutton   Haricot. 

Remove  the  fat  from  the  chops  of  a  loin  of  mutton,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan 
with  two  onions  cut  in  slices,  and  fry  until  the  meat  is  a  light  brown,  put  a  little  flour 
into  a  breakfast  cupful  of  gravy  to  thicken  it,  pour  it  over  the  meat  and  cook  slowly 
for  about  forty-five  minutes.  In  the  meantime  put  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  and  a  small 
head  of  celery  into  a  saucepan  of  water  and  partly  boil  them;  cut  the  vegetables  in 
slices,  add  them  to  the  pan  with  the  meat  and  stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes  longer; 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup  and  one  wineglassful  of  sherry  wine,  boil 
up  quickly,  pour  it  on  to  a  dish,  and  serve. 


MUTTON.  193 

Hashed  Mutton.4 

Chop  an  onion  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  till  nicely 
browned,  then  mix  in  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  in  about  one-half  pint 
of  clear  stock,  a  tablespoonful.  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  small  quan- 
tity of  mixed  spices.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  strain  it  through 
a  gravy  strainer  and  leave  until  cold.  Cut  some  cold  mutton  into  thin  slices,  trim  off 
the  skin,  and  most  of  the  fat;  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  few  slices  of  pickled 
gherkins,  pour  in  the  sauce  and  heat  gradually  over  a  slow  fire.  When  ready  turn 
the  hash  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  bread  fried  a 
golden  brown  in  butter,  and  serve  with  a  dish  of  mashed  potatoes. 

Hashed  Mutton  and  Fried  Eggs. 

Cut  some  cold  mutton  into  nicely-shaped  pieces,  removing  the  fat  and  brown  skin ; 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  well-seasoned  gravy  and  warm.  When  very  hot 
stir  some  canned  or  freshly-peeled  tomatoes  in  with  them,  place  the  hash  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  around  with  fried  eggs  and  small  croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  fried  in 
butter,  and  serve. 

Hashed  Mutton,  Zingara  Style. 

Chop  up  two  onions  and  fry  them  in  a  saucepan  with  an  ounce  of  butter  for 
three  minutes ;  add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  hashed  mutton,  and  one-fourth  the 
quantity  of  hashed  cooked  potatoes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  adding 
a  little  nutmeg  if  desired ;  put  in  also  two  raw  tomatoes  cut  up,  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  a  crushed  clove  of  garlic  ;  also  a  gill  each  of  Spanish  sauce  and 
broth.  Mix  all  together  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  then  serve  with  a  little  chopped 
parsley  sprinkled  over  the  whole. 

Roasted  Haunch  of  Mutton. 

Select  a  haunch  of  mutton  that  has  been  hanging  for  about  two  weeks,  remove 
all  the  skin  that  covers  the  fat,  take  out  the  shank  bone,  cover  it  with  well  buttered 
paper,  and  put  it  in  a  hot  oven  to  roast.  Baste  frequently,  and  when  it  has  been 
cooking  for  about  two  hours,  take  off  the  paper  to  allow  the  meat  to  brown  ;  dust  it 
over  with  salt,  a  little  flour,  and  baste  with  butter.  When  quite  done  place  it  on  a 
dish,  put  a  paper  frill  on  the  shank  bone,  pour  over  one  wineglassful  of  sherry  wine 
mixed  with  some  gravy,  and  serve  with  red  currant  jelly  sauce. 


Stewed  Sheep's  Hearts. 


Wash  and  dry  the  desired  quantity  of  hearts,  make  a  stuffing  with  sifted  bread- 
crumbs, two-thirds  the  quantity  of  beef  suet,  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  small  quantity 


I94  MUTTON. 

of  chopped  parsley  and  sweet  herbs,  grated  lemon  peel  and  nutmeg,  and  a  sprinkling  of 
salt  and  pepper.  Stuff  the  hearts  with  this  mixture,  dip  them  in  milk,  roll  them  in 
flour,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  broad  end  downward  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry 
until  brown  all  over ;  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  stock,  and  simmer  until  the  hearts  are 
tender,  which  will  take  about  one  hour  and  a  half.  Remove  the  hearts,  drain,  and 
place  them  on  a  dish,  keeping  them  hot  while  the  gravy  is  being  prepared.  Skim 
the  fat  off  the  gravy,  thicken  it  with  a  small  quantity  of  flour,  mix  with  it  one  wine- 
glassful  of  claret  and  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  pour  it  over  the  hearts, 
and  serve  them  with  currant  jelly. 

Irish  Stew. 

The  best  description  of  this  would  be  a  neck  of  mutton,  onions  and  potatoes, 
stewed,  the  potatoes  being  the  only  Irish  ingredient  in  the  stew  ;  for  Irish  stew  is  not 
a  national  Irish  dish  in  spite  of  its  name.  A  good  recipe  for  it  is  as  follows :  Cut 
two  and  one-half  pounds  of  loin  of  mutton  into  fairly  thick  chops,  and  cut  off  the 
square  ends  of  the  bones.  Peel  a  large  quantity  of  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  slices, 
also  peel  about  one  pound  of  onions.  Put  the  chops  and  vegetables  in  layers,  moisten 
to  their  height  in  cold  water,  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  until  the  liquor  commences 
to  boil,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  keep  it  simmering  gently  for  two  hours  or  so. 
When  the  meat  is  tender,  take  it  out  and  pile  the  potatoes,  which  should  be  thick,  in 
the  center,  arrange  the  chops  around  the  pile,  garnish  the  dish  with  whole  boiled 
potatoes  and  a  few  button  mushrooms,  and  serve  hot. 

Kidney  Bacon    Rolls. 

Peel  and  chop  a  small  onion  fine,  and  mix  it  with  one  teacupful  of  grated 
bread  crumb,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  Moisten  the  mixture  slightly 
with  beaten  egg,  spread  it  over  some  thin  slices  of  bacon,  and  place  a  small  kidney 
on  each.  Roll  the  bacon  round  the  kidney  and  tranfix  it  with  skewers.  Put  the  rolls 
in  a  baking  dish  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done  put 
the  rolls  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve.  Or  they  may  be  left 
until  cold,  and  then  served  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  or 
an  ornamental  dish-paper. 

Broiled  Mutton    Kidneys,  Maitre   d' Hotel. 

Place  some  kidneys  in  boiling  water  to  soak  for  a  few  minutes,  remove  them, 
dry,  skin,  and  cut  them  down  the  center.  Fasten  them  open  with  skewers,  sprinkle 
over  salt  and  pepper,  dip  into  warmed  butter,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  with  the 
opened  side  downwards,  and  broil  thoroughly.  Dress  them  on  a  dish  with  a  mixture 
of  minced  parsley,  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper  and  maitre  d'hotel  butter  in  the 
center  and  serve  very  hot. 


MUTTON.  195 

Curried  Mutton    Kidneys. 

Pour  one  wineglassful  of  rich  gravy  or  brown  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  well-kneaded  with  curry  powder,  and  boil  until  it  is  fairly 
thick.  Meanwhile  cut  two  or  three  onions  in  rings,  fry  them  over  a  moderate  fire  to 
color  slightly,  sprinkle  over  a  little  salt,  and  drain  them.  Put  in  a  dozen  mutton 
kidneys,  skinned  and  minced  very  finely  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter,  and  fry  them 
until  done.  Place  them  on  a  strainer  to  remove  all  the  fat,  arrange  them  on  a  dish, 
pour  the  sauce  over  them  and  decorate  with  the  rings  of  fried  onions  and  potato 
croquettes. 

Deviled   Kidneys. 

Remove  the  skin  from  as  many  kidneys  as  may  be  required,  parboil  them  in  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  cut  down  the  center  and  dip  in  warmed  butter.  Dust  over 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  cayenne  if  desired,  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  and  serve  on 
a  dish  with  some  butter  worked  in  with  minced  parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 

Mutton    Kidneys,  French  Style. 

Skin  the  kidneys,  cut  them  into  quarters,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump 
of  butter,  and  fry  them,  dredging  lightly  over  with  flour.  When  the  kidneys  are 
nearly  cooked,  put  in  a  few  chopped  mushrooms,  some  chopped  shallots  and  parsley, 
and  a  small  wineglassful  of  sherry  or  white  wine,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  finish  frying  them,  stirring  constantly  at  the  same  time.  When  cooked, 
turn  the  kidneys  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  slices  of  lemons,  and  serve. 

Fried   Kidneys. 

Cut  some  kidneys  in  halves  down  the  center  without  severing,  remove  all  the 
skin  and  fat,  and  sprinkle  with  cayenne  and  salt.  Place  them  in  a  heated  fryingpan, 
pour  on  a  little  clarified  butter,  fry  quickly,  and  serve  upon  sippets  of  toast.  Add  a 
little  catsup  or  sauce  to  the  gravy,  and  pour  it  over  before  serving. 

Fried   Mutton    Kidneys   with   Curry  Sauce. 

Trim  four  kidneys,  cut  them  across  in  fine  pieces,  fry  them  in  butter  till  nicely 
cooked,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with 
one-half  tablespoonful  each  of  curry  powder  and  flour,  a  little  salt,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  mixed;  then  pour  in  gradually  two-thirds  of  a  breakfast  cupful  of  clear  broth, 
and  continue  stirring  until  it  boils.  A  small  quantity  of  finely-chopped  onions  may 
be  used  to  flavor  the  sauce,  or  the  stewpan  may  be  first  rubbed  over  with  garlic. 
When  ready,  put  the  kidneys  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  garnish  with 
sippets  of  toast,  or  small  croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  lightly  fried  in  butter,  and 
serve. 


196  MUTTON. 

Mutton    Kidneys  in   Border. 

Mould  a  border  of  chicken  forcemeat  or  potato  and  turn  it  on  to  a  hot  broad 
round  dish.  Fill  the  center  with  sliced  mutton  kidneys  prepared  by  stewing  in 
Madeira  and  then  masking  half  of  the  slices  with  Spanish  sauce  and  the  remaining 
half  with  veloute.  This  gives  a  very  pretty  and  artistic  effect,  the  slices  of  kidney 
partaking  of  two  colors,  brown  and  white.  Great  care  is  required  in  arranging  the 
slices  to  give  them  the  appearance  of  being  loosely  tossed  together.  Prepare  a  sauce 
from  the  wine  stock  by  thickening  it  with  roux,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
serve  separately  in  a  sauceboat. 

Kidneys  on  Skewers. 

Remove  the  skin  from  a  few  kidneys  and  cut  them  nearly  through,  keeping  them 
spread  out  by  the  use  of  skewers.  Dip  in  a  little  warmed  butter,  put  them  on  a  but- 
tered gridiron  and  cook  for  eight  minutes,  turning  often.  Place  them  on  a  dish,  add 
a  little  chopped  parsley,  lemon  juice,  pepper  and  salt  to  the  butter,  pour  over  it,  and 
serve. 

Mutton    Kidneys  in    Terrine. 

Put  some  mutton  kidneys  into  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter  and  fry  them 
slightly;  they  should  not  be  cut  open  for  this.  Place  them  in  an  earthenware  ter- 
rine  with  a  few  slices  of  onions  also  browned  in  butter,  and  add  a  slice  of  lean  bacon, 
two  potatoes  and  two  carrots  also  cut  in  slices;  pour  over  one  pint  of  stock  or  water, 
put  on  the  lid,  set  the  terrine  in  the  oven,  and  cook  gently  for  about  three  hours. 
When  done  take  them  out,  put  the  terrine  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  folded  napkin, 
and  serve. 

Stewed  Kidneys. 

Skin,  wash  and  dry  some  kidneys,  cut  them  into  round  slices  and  dust  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  half  that  quantity  of  flour  into  a 
fryingpan,  and  when  it  is  hot  put  in  the  kidneys,  stir  for  two  or  three  minutes,  add 
one  gill  of  water  or  stock  and  boil  it  up,  stirring  in  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
Pile  four  tablespoonfuls  of  mashed  potatoes  on  a  plate,  arrange  the  slices  of  kidney 
around  the  potatoes  and  then  pour  over  and  around  the  potatoes  the  gravy,  which 
should  be  very  thick,  then  garnish  the  dish  with  small  pieces  of  toast. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton  with  Caper  Sauce. 

Cut  off  the  shank  bone  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  trim  and  make  an  incision  at  the 
first  joint;  put  it  on  to  boil  in  a  stockpot  filled  with  cold  water  and  salt  slightly,  add 
a  bunch  of  parsley  and  one  carrot  cut  up.  Boil  for  an  hour  or  more,  and,  according 
to  size,  serve  with  a  pint  of  hot  caper  sauce  made  by  putting  a  pint  of  hot  Hollandaise 


MUTTON.  197 

sauce  into  a  saucepan  and  heating  thoroughly  without  boiling  for  five  minutes,  and 
then  adding  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  capers,  or  else  an  ordinary  caper  sauce  may 
be  used  instead. 

Boiled   Leg  of  Mutton   with  Oyster  Stuffing. 

Take  a  dozen  or  more  large  oysters,  remove  the  beards  and  uneatable  parts,  par- 
boil them,  chop  them  up  with  boiled  parsley,  onion  and  sweet  herbs,  adding  the  yolks 
of  two  or  three  hard-boiled  eggs.  Make  five  or  six  incisions  in  the  fleshy  part  of  a 
leg  of  mutton,  put  in  the  stuffing,  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth  and  boil  in  a  saucepan  with  plenty 
of  water  for  from  two  to  two  and  one-half  hours,  according  to  size.  When  done  re- 
move the  cloth,  place  on  a  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

Braised  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Put  a  leg  of  mutton  in  a  braising  pan  with  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  on  top  and 
underneath  it;  put  in  also  four  carrots,  two  onions,  a  few  meat  bones,  a  bay  leaf,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  three  gills  of  gravy.  Put  the  pan  over  a  fire  with  hot 
ashes  on  the  cover,  and  cook  the  contents  slowly  until  done.  Remove  the  leg  of  mut- 
ton, place  it  on  a  dish,  and  glaze;  take  off  the  fat  from  the  gravy  to  strain,  pour  it 
over,  and  serve. 

Braised  Boned  Leg  of  Mutton,  Milanese  Style. 

The  following  recipe  is  a  favorite  dish  of  the  Milanese,  but  the  Italians  of  Rome 
and  Naples  are  not  so  fond  of  it,  as  they  think  it  has  a  woolly  flavor.  Remove  the  bone 
from  a  leg  of  mutton,  and  bone  it  as  follows  from  the  thick  end  down  to  the  first 
joint;  chop  it  off  at  the  first  joint,  push  in  a  knife  near  the  joint  to  loosen  the  flesh, 
leaving  the  tendons  and  gristle  on  the  bone;  then  commence  at  the  small  or  tail  end 
and  scrape  away  the  fat  from  the  backbone  and  follow  the  bone  up  until  the  joint  is 
reached,  continuing  in  this  way  until  all  the  bone  is  out.  The  cavity  may  be  stuffed 
and  sewed  up  at  the  thin  end.  Then  bring  the  edges  together  at  the  upper  end,  push- 
ing all  the  flesh  inside  and  sew  the  skin  tightly  together,  which  will  give  a  rectangular 
form  of  solid  meat  and  stuffing.  To  cut  it  straight  down  to  the  bone  or  to  take  it 
out  would  spoil  it  and  much  of  the  juice  would  escape,  and  if  sewed  up  it  would  be  very 
unsightly,  but  by  this  way  the  juice  is  preserved,  and  when  the  meat  is  cold  it  does  not 
become  dry  and  hard.  Fill  the  cavity  with  breadcrumbs  soaked  in  broth  and 
squeezed  quite  dry,  adding  a  mixture  of  garlic,  eggs,  mushrooms,  bacon,  ham  and 
pepper.  Sew  up  the  place  where  it  was  cut  so  that  the  stuffing  will  not  fall  out,  and 
put  it  in  an  earthenware  stewpan,  with  some  small  pieces  of  melted  fat  bacon.  Put  the 
pan  over  the  fire  and  fry  gently  until  it  is  a  light  color,  turning  often.  Sprinkle  over 
salt  and  pepper,  add  a  few  vegetables  cut  in  slices,  and  pour  in  a  wineglassful  each  of 
white  wine  and  broth.  Cover  with  a  round  of  paper,  put  some  hot  ashes  on  the  lid, 


198  MUTTON. 

and  braise  for  about  four  hours,  adding  a  little  more  broth  occasionally,  and  when 
done  put  it  on  a  dish  and  keep  hot.  Add  a  little  gravy  or  broth  to  the  liquor 
in  which  it  was  cooked,  bring  to  a  boil,  strain  it,  remove  all  the  fat,  and  reduce  quickly 
to  half  glaze,  thickening  it  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  keeping  it  quite 
light.  Pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  leg,  put  the  remainder  in  a  sauceboat,  gar- 
nish with  potato  croquettes  and  Brussels  sprouts  in  piles,  and  serve  hot. 

Leg  of  Mutton,  Provincial  Style. 

Take  two  or  three  each  of  cloves  of  garlic  and  anchovies  cut  into  fillets,  and 
lard  a  leg  of  mutton  with  them.  Roast  the  mutton  in  a  quick  oven,  keeping  it  well 
basted.  Boil  one  or  two  more  cloves  of  garlic,  changing  the  water  often,  and  when 
nearly  done,  drain  and  refresh  them  with  cold  water.  Drain  again,  put  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  stock  and  gravy,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  a 
thick  creamy  consistency.  When  cooked  place  the  mutton  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the 
sauce  around  it,  garnish  with  vegetables,  and  serve. 

Roasted  Leg  of  Mutton. 

Take  a  leg  of  mutton,  wipe  it  dry,  sprinkle  it  over  with  pepper  and  flour,  chop 
off  the  knuckle  bone,  remove  the  thick  skin,  and  trim  the  flank.  Place  in  a  roasting 
dish,  add  a  little  water  and  salt,  put  in  the  oven,  and  baste  frequently.  Allow  about 
fifteen  minutes  for  every  pound  if  the  oven  is  very  quick,  and  twenty  minutes  if  the 
oven  is  slow.  When  done,  put  it  on  a  dish,  pour  the  gravy  round,  and  serve  with 
some  currant  jelly  on  a  separate  dish.  If  the  leg  is  too  large  for  roasting,  it  can  be 
divided,  and  the  knuckle  end  either  boiled,  or  the  cut  end  covered  witli  paste  made 
of  water  and  flour,  and  boiled. 

Roasted  Boned  and  Stuffed   Leg  of  Mutton. 

The  principal  difficulty  in  accomplishing  this  dish  is  the  boning.  This  must  be 
done  with  a  very  sharp  knife.  Commence  on  the  under  side  of  the  joint,  passing  the 
knife  under  the  skin  until  exactly  over  the  bone;  then  cut  down  to  it,  pass  the  knife 
around  close  to  the  bone  right  up  to  the  socket,  remove  the  large  bone  of  the  thickest 
end  of  the  leg,  seeing  the  meat  is  clear  of  the  bone,  draw  out  the  remaining  bones, 
which  will  come  away  easily,  and  stuff  the  cavity  with  highly  seasoned  forcemeat. 
Fasten  the  knuckle  end  tightly  over,  replace  the  bone  at  the  base  of  the  joint  and 
sew  it  in.  Place  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  baste  well  until  done,  and  seive  with  gravy. 

Roasted  Leg  of  Mutton,  Portuguese  Style. 

Take  a  medium-sized  leg  of  mutton  take  out  the  shank  bone,  trim  well  and  make 
an  incision  at  the  first  joint.  Season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  rub  one-half  ounce 


MUTTON. 


199 


of  butter  over  and  roast  for  one  hour  in  a  pan,  basting  occasionally  with  the  gravy 
and  turning  it  once  in  a  while.  Remove  from  the  oven,  place  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve 
with  three  stuffed  tomatoes  and  three  timbales  of  cooked  rice,  straining  the  gravy 
over  it  or  it  may  be  garnished  with  red  or  white  beans  cooked  in  gravy. 

Loin  of  Mutton  in   Papers. 

Saw  the  chine  bone  off  the  neck  end  of  a  loin  of  mutton,  trim  to  a  nioe  shape,  re- 
moving all  the  gristle  and  superfluous  fat ;  lay  it  in  a  deep  dish  with  plenty  of  finely- 
sliced  carrots  and  onions,  some  peppercorns,  cloves,  sweet  herbs  and  two  or  three 
bay  leaves ;  season  with  salt  and  chopped  parsley,  moisten  well  with  the  best  olive  oil 
and  leave  the  meat  in  the  marinade  for  one  day.  Afterwards  spread  the  marinading 
vegetables  and  oil  over  a  large  sheet  of  paper,  lay  the  meat  on  them,  binding  it  in 
position  with  tape.  Roast  it  in  a  slow  oven  and  when  nearly  done  remove  the  paper 
and  vegetables  and  brown  the  meat.  Peel  some  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  slices, 
and  fry  in  a  stewpan  with  butter,  adding  some  finely  chopped  parsley  until  lightly 
and  equally  browned.  When  done,  place  the  mutton  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  it  with 
the  potatoes. 

Roasted  Rolled  Loin  of  Mutton. 

Take  a  loin  of  mutton  weighing  about  three  pounds,  remove  all  the  bones,  take  out 
the  fillet  and  mince  it  very  fine.  Add  to  the  mince  an  equal  quantity  of  bread- 
crumbs, one  minced  shallot,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and 
sufficient  egg  to  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste.  Put  this  on  the  mutton,  tie  it  over  tightly 
with  a  string,  rub  it  well  with  flour,  sprinkle  some  salt  and  pepper  over  it  and  place  it 
in  a  slow  oven  to  roast.  Put  a  few  onions  into  a  fryingpan  with  the  bones,  fry  them 
until  they  are  brown,  pour  in  a  little  stock  and  thicken  with  flour.  Place  the 
meat  when  done  on  a  dish,  pour  the  gravy  round,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  glazed 
onions. 

Roast  Stuffed  Loin  of  Mutton. 

Bone  a  loin  of  mutton  and  then  beat  it  with  a  rolling  pin  to  flatten  it  as  much  as 
possible.  Mix  together  one-half  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  blanched,  boiled  for  ten 
minutes,  and  pounded  to  a  paste,  one-fourth  pound  of  mutton  suet,  chopped  fine,  one 
ounce  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one-half  teaspoonful 
of  mixed  herbs,  powdered  or  chopped  fine,  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt,  a  very  little 
cayenne,  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  grated  lemon  peel,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  the 
white  of  one.  When  this  stuffing  is  thoroughly  mixed,  spread  it  evenly  over  the 
inner  side  of  the  mutton,  roll  it  neatly,  skewer,  tie  and  then  roast  it  in  a  warm  oven, 
keeping  it  well  basted  ;  put  the  bones  in  a  pan  over  the  fire,  with  half  a  head  of 
celery,  half  a  carrot,  an  onion,  a  shallot  and  a  very  small  piece  of  garlic  ;  pour  over 
them  about  one  pint  of  water  and  let  them  stew  for  three  hours.  Strain  the  liquor 
and  add  to  it  a  little  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  soy,  one  dessertspoonful  of  mushroom 


200  MUTTON. 

catsup,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  blended  smooth  with  a  little  of  the  liquor, 
before  mixing  it  with  the  whole  quantity.  Stir  it  till  it  boils  and  boil  for  ten  minutes, 
stirring  occasionally,  then  mix  in  one  glass  of  sherry  wine.  When  the  mutton  is 
dished  pour  the  gravy  over  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Minced  Mutton. 

Remove  all  the  fat,  skin  and  gristle  from  some  cold  cooked  mutton,  chop  it  up 
very  fine,  and  pour  over  Italian  sauce  in  the  proportion  of  one  pint  of  sauce  to  every 
pound  of  meat.  Warm  up  thoroughly,  without  boiling  in  a  saucepan,  over  a  clear 
fire.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  and  garnish  with  poached  eggs  or  pieces  of  fried  bread, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Neck   of  Mutton,  Brittany  Style. 

Chop  off  the  chine  bones  and  scrags  of  two  necks  of  mutton,  trim  them  to  a  nice 
shape,  and  roast  in  a  hot  oven,  keeping  them  well  basted.  Put  one  pint  of  white 
beans  to  soak  in  water  over  night,  drain  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with  fresh  water,  one 
ounce  of  butter  and  a  lump  of  salt ;  boil  until  tender.  As  the  beans  will  require  much 
longer  cooking  than  the  mutton,  they  should  be  put  over  the  fire  some  length  of  time 
before.  Peel  and  thinly  slice  three  large  onions,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump 
of  butter  or  clarified  fat,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned,  dredge  a  small  quantity  of 
flour  over,  and  pour  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  clear  gravy.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the 
fire  until  it  boils,  put  in  the  beans  with  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut,  season 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  until  the  glaze  has  dissolved.  Place  the 
mutton  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  around,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Neck  of  Mutton,  Duchess  Style. 

Select  a  whole  neck  of  mutton  with  the  scrag  end  attached,  weighing  about  three 
pounds,  wash  it  well,  sprinkle  with  flour  and  fry  in  a  frying-pan  until  well  browned. 
Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  stock  to  cover,  and  add  a  carrot,  two  turnips  and 
six  small  onions.  Cover  closely  and  cook  slowly  until  the  vegetables  are  thoroughly 
done;  remove  the  vegetables,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  keep  warm.  Continue  to  cook 
the  mutton  until  done,  which  will  take  about  four  to  five  hours  altogether.  When 
done  remove  to  a  dish  and  keep  hot.  Let  the  gravy  in  the  pan  cool,  remove  the  fat, 
and  then  reduce  it  quickly  to  about  one  pint;  thicken  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour 
mixed  smooth  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  stock.  Put  in  the  meat  again  and  cook 
slowly  for  thirty  minutes.  Chop  up  the  vegetables,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
little  butter,  toss  over  the  fire  until  they  are  quite  hot,  and  arrange  on  a  dish  in  small 
piles  around  the  mutton.  Other  cooked  vegetables  may  be  used  as  a  garnish  if  desired. 


MUTTON.  201 

Mutton   on   Skewers. 

Cut  a  leg  or  loin  of  mutton  into  small,  equal-sized  pieces,  rub  them  over  with 
finely-chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  lay  them  on  a  plate,  place  another  on  top,  and 
leave  them  for  a  few  hours.  Cut  a  pound  of  tomatoes  into  halves,  put  them  in  a 
mortar  and  press  them  to  extract  the  juice,  which  pass  through  a  fine  hair  sieve. 
Place  the  pieces  of  meat  on  skewers,  put  them  over  a  brisk  fire  and  turn  them  often 
so  as  to  brown  evenly,  basting  them  with  the  tomato  juice.  When  they  are  cooked 
lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  very  hot.  If  fresh  tomatoes  are  not  in  season  take 
about  one  teacupful  of  the  liquor  of  canned  ones,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  to 
free  it  of  all  pips,  and  mix  it  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water. 

Minced  Mutton   Patties. 

Line  some  buttered  patty  pans  with  thin  paste,  fill  them  up  with  flour  or  rice, 
place  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake.  Take  out  when  done,  remove  the  flour  or  rice, 
turn  them  out  of  the  pans  and  fill  with  minced  cooked  lean  mutton;  moisten  with  a 
little  gravy,  warm  them  up  in  the  oven,  and  when  hot  place  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  lay 
them  on  it,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  parsley. 

Mutton  Pies. 

Make  one  and  one-half  pound  of  paste,  divide  it  into  eight  pieces,  each  of  which 
roll  out  as  thin  as  possible.  Partially  boil  four  or  five  onions,  then  drain  and  chop 
them  very  fine.  Chop  a  small  quantity  of  mushrooms,  and  put  them,  together  with 
the  onions  and  a  lump  of  butter,  into  a  fryingpan  and  fry  until  brown.  Mince  finely 
a  piece  of  mutton,  fry  it  in  butter  for  a  few  minutes  and  add  it  to  the  above.  Place 
four  of  the  flats  of  paste  over  each  other,  moistening  between  them  with  one  spoonful 
of  warmed  butter,  then  put  the  mince  mixture  over  in  small  quantities,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  each  other.  Moisten  the  paste  round  the  mincemeat  with  a  paste-brush 
dipped  in  water,  then  cover  with  the  remaining  pieces  of  paste ;  press  over  each  lot  of 
mincemeat  with  a  teacup,  and  cut  round.  Butter  a  bakingtin,  lay  the  pieces  on  it, 
baste  them  with  warmed  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked  and 
well  colored,  arrange  on  a  dish  and  serve. 


Mutton  Pilau,  Sultana  Style. 


Wash  one  pound  of  rice,  put  in  a  cloth  and  tie  up,  leaving  room  for  the  rice  to 
swell.  Cut  one-fourth  pound  of  the  best  part  of  mutton  in  small  pieces,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  water,  and  place  over  the  fire  until  it  boils.  Then  skim 
the  liquor,  and  move  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Strain  the 
liquor  off  the  meat  into  a  basin,  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  with  the  meat  and  fry 
till  nicely  browned.  Return  the  liquor  to  the  saucepan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 


202  MUTTON. 

skinned  pistachios  and  one  tablespoonful  of  washed  currants,  add  a  small  quantity  of 
mixed  spices.  Mince  two  ounces  of  mutton  and  fry  it  in  butter  till  browned,  then 
add  it  to  the  other  ingredients.  When  the  liquor  boils  put  in  the  rice,  move  to  the 
side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  until  soft.  When  done,  arrange  the  pilau  tastefully  on 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve  immediately. 

Mutton   Rissoles. 

Mince  some  raw  mutton  quite  fine,  and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper ;  then 
divide  it  into  small  equal-sized  quantities  and  roll  them  into  balls ;  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  fryingpan  to  heat,  put  in  the  balls  and  fry  till  nicely  browned.  Drain 
them  out  and  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  three  thinly  sliced  onions,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley  to  fry  for  a  few  minutes ;  place  the  onions  and 
parsley  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  lay  the  balls  on  them  side  by  side,  pour  in  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  sufficient  clear  broth  to  cover,  and  boil  slowly  for  half 
an  hour.  When  done,  place  the  balls  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  their  cooking  liquor  around 
them,  and  serve. 

Braised  Saddle  of  Mutton. 

Remove  the  kidneys  from  a  saddle  of  mutton,  cut  off  the  skin  covering  the  fat 
of  both  fillets  and  cut  off  the  flaps  or  skirts  and  roll  them  up  underneath.  Place 
some  slices  of  fat  bacon  in  a  braising  pan,  tie  the  meat  around  with  twine,  lay  it  in 
the  pan  and  add  an  onion  and  a  carrot  cut  in  slices;  season  with  salt,  pour  in  a  pint 
of  broth  and  reduce  over  a  clear  fire;  then  pour  in  water  to  half  its  height  and  braise 
slowly.  When  nearly  done  remove  and  drain  out  the  meat,  pass  the  liquor  through 
a  conical  sieve,  skim  off  the  fat  and  add  a  little  white  wine.  Put  the  fat  with  the 
mutton  into  a  saucepan  and  finish  the  cooking  in  a  slow  oven,  basting  frequently  and 
letting  it  get  a  good  brown.  When  done  place  it  on  a  dish  and  garnish  with  mashed 
vegetables,  and  serve  with  the  strained  liquor  in  a  sauceboat. 

Saddle  of  Mutton  in   Surprise. 

Scoop  out  the  meat  from  a  cold  saddle  of  mutton,  cutting  it  close  to  the  bone 
and  leaving  an  outside  thickness  of  about  one  and  one-half  inches  wide.  Mince  the 
meat  fine  with  a  little  of  the  fat  and  mix  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
onions  fried  in  a  little  butter,  sprinkle  over  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  add  one  bay  leaf  and  a  little  cayenne.  Pour  a 
breakfast  cupful  of  broth  into  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  meat  mixture,  cook  gently  for 
ten  minutes  and  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Work  two  pounds  of  boiled 
potatoes  into  a  stiff  paste  in  a  basin,  roll  out  and  form  into  an  edging  round  the  saddle 
of  mutton,  filling  the  cavity  scooped  out  of  the  joint  with  the  meat  mixture.  Brush 
all  over  with  egg,  cover  with  breadcrumbs  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven  on  a  baking 


MUTTON.  203 

sheet  for  a  few  minutes.     Take  it  out,  and  serve  on  a  dish  with  Spanish  sauce  poured 
round. 

Roast  Saddle  of  Mutton. 

Remove  all  the  fat  and  skin  from  a  saddle  of  mutton,  chop  off  the  ends  of  the 
ribs  and  take  out  the  cords  and  veins  along  the  back.  Wipe  dry  with  a  cloth  and 
rub  well  inside  with  salt.  Roll  the  flank  under  on  each  side,  tie  it  three  or  four  times 
across  the  middle,  sprinkle  well  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper  and  put  it  in  a  baking 
dish  with  the  inside  upward  so  that  the  fat  will  be  thoroughly  cooked.  Cover  over 
it  a  piece  of  paper  well  buttered  and  cook  until  the  fat  is  brown  and  crisp  and  the 
meat  well  done.  Place  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Roasted  Saddle  of  Mutton  with  Chestnut  Puree. 

Trim  both  fillets  of  a  saddle  of  mutton,  lard,  fix  in  a  roastingpan  and  cook  in  a 
hot  oven,  basting  constantly,  roast  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  remove,  sprin- 
kle some  salt  over  and  cut  the  fillets  in  slices  in  a  slanting  direction,  letting  them  ad- 
here to  a  small  part  of  the  fat.  Cut  off  the  sides  of  the  saddle,  place  them  on  a  re- 
moving dish,  forming  with  them  a  kind  of  support  on  which  arrange  the  carved  fillets 
of  the  saddle.  Serve  it  with  a  separate  dish  of  chestnut  puree  and  a  sauceboatful  of 
melted  half  glaze. 

Boned  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  Prince  of  Wales  Style. 

Bone  a  shoulder  of  mutton  and  lay  it  on  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle  over  one  teaspoon- 
ful  each  of  bruised  cloves,  cardamoms,  allspice,  coriander  seeds  and  long  peppers;  baste 
it  with  a  breakfast  cupful  of  common  claret  and  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  white 
wine  vinegar,  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil.  Leave  the  shoulder  in  the 
pickle  for  twenty-four  hours.  Put  the  bone  and  trimmings  in  a  saucepan  with  two 
quarts  of  white  stock  and  stew  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  several  hours  until  all  the 
goodness  is  extracted.  Reduce  the  stock  to  about  half  its  former  quantity,  strain  into 
a  basin,  and  when  cold  skim  off  all  the  fat.  When  sufficiently  pickled  drain  the  meat, 
roll,  fasten  with  a  skewer,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  few  pieces  of  carrot,  turnip  and 
leek  and  four  or  five  dried  mushrooms,  pour  the  stock  of  the  bones  over  the  meat  and 
cook  slowly  until  tender.  When  done  drain  the  meat,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  strain 
its  cooking  liquor  into  a  small  saucepan,  soak  one-fourth  ounce  of  gelatine  in  red 
wine,  stir  it  into  the  meat  and  boil  until  reduced  to  a  half  glaze.  Cut  some  boiled 
carrots  and  turnips  into  rings,  fry  them  in  butter,  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  parsley, 
arrange  in  alternate  order  round  the  meat,  pour  the  glaze  over  the  shoulder,  and  serve. 

Braised  Boned   Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

Take  out  the  bone  from  a  shoulder  of  mutton  (see  boning),  letting  the  stump  re- 
main for  a  handle.  Lard  it  with  strips  of  fat  bacon  and  sprinkle  chopped  herbs,  salt 


204  MUTTON. 

and  pepper  over  it.  Roll  it  up  and  sew  together  with  a  trussing  needle.  Place  a  few 
slices  of  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  braising  pan,  put  in  the  shoulder  of  mutton,  add  the 
shoulder  bone  and  a  small  quantity  each  of  carrots,  onions,  thyme  and  laurel  leaves, 
two  heads  of  celery  and  a  little  stock.  Cover  with  slices  of  bacon  and  then  with  pa- 
per, place  over  a  slow  fire  and  simmer  gently  until  done.  Place  on  a  dish,  remove 
the  string,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  glazed  onions. 

Spiced  Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

Bone  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  and  rub  it  well  with  a  mixture  of  two  ounces  of 
sugar,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  ground  mace  and  pepper,  and  one  saltspoonful  of 
powdered  cloves.  Continue  to  do  this  for  a  week,  letting  it  remain  in  the  pickle  ; 
then  roll  it  up,  tie  it  round  with  a  string,  place  in  a  stewpan  with  some  good  beef 
broth  and  cook  slowly  until  done.  Lay  it  on  a  dish,  add  a  little  piquant  sauce  to  the 
broth,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

Put  a  boned  shoulder  of  mutton  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  broth,  parsley, 
cloves,  bay  leaf,  a  small  clove  of  garlic,  a  few  carrots,  turnips  and  onions,  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stew  gently  until  thoroughly  cooked.  Remove,  drain  well, 
place  it  on  a  baking  dish,  pour  over  a  little  thick  gravy,  sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs. 
Mix  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  basin  with  a  little  oiled  butter,  spread  it  over  the 
mutton,  and  cover  again  with  breadcrumbs.  Place  it  in  a  hot  oven  to  brown,  basting 
frequently  with  hot  butter.  Remove  to  a  dish  and  serve  with  a  little  of  the  gravy 
strained  and  reduced. 

Mutton  Steak,  Florentine  Style. 

Cut  the  meat  off  a  leg  of  mutton  in  thick  slices,  rub  each  slice  over  with  salt, 
pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  on  both  sides.  Season  some  breadcrumbs  with  thyme, 
savory,  cloves,  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  and  bind  them  with  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  then 
divide  and  mould  the  mixture  into  small  balls ;  butter  the  edges  of  a  pie-dish,  line 
them  with  paste,  and  put  in  the  slices  of  mutton,  together  with  the  balls,  four 
chopped  shallots,  a  little  powdered  sweet  herbs,  and  two  or  three  anchovies.  Moisten 
with  one-half  pint  each  of  claret  and  water,  and  put  on  top  one-half  pound  of  butter, 
broken  in  small  pieces.  Cover  with  puff  paste,  and  trim  around  the  edges,  moisten- 
ing and  pressing  them  together.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven,  and  serve  while  hot. 

Stewed  Mutton. 

Remove  the  bone  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  cut  the  meat  in  large  squares,  put  them 
in  a  basin,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  pour  in  one 
wineglassful  of  vinegar,  and  let  them  remain  for  a  few  hours  to  soak.  Take  out, 
drain,  put  them  into  a  stockpot  with  ten  ounces  of  fat  bacon  chopped  small  and 


MUTTON.  205 

melted,  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  pour  over  the  marinade  liquor,  add  two 
bay  leaves,  and  a  few  cloves  of  garlic.  Let  it  cook  for  five  minutes  longer,  then  draw 
the  pot  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  cover  it  with  a  piece  of  paper,  lay  a  plate  on  top,  and 
stew  slowly  until  the  meat  is  done.  When  ready  take  out  the  meat,  place  on  a  dish, 
skim  off  the  fat  from  the  liquor,  add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce, 
boil  it  up  once,  pour  it  through  a  fine  sieve  over  the  meat,  and  serve  it  with  a  dish 
of  rice. 

Stewed   Mutton,  Farmer's  Style. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  three  pounds  of  breast  or  shoulder  of  mutton  cut  in  small 
squares,  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  six  small  onions.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  or  till 
of  a  good  golden  color.  Add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well  together,  and 
moisten  with  three  pints  of  light  broth  or  water,  stirring  continually  while  boiling. 
Season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  nutmeg,  adding  two  carrots  and  two  turnips  cut  into  small  pieces,  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  and  one  crushed  clove  of  garlic.  Boil  over  a  moderate  fire  for  thirty 
minutes ;  put  in  one-half  pint  of  Lima  or  white  beans,  and  let  the  whole  cook  again 
for  fifteen  minutes  Skim  off  the  fat  well,  remove  the  parsley,  and  serve. 

Mutton   Stew,  Turkish. 

Cut  some  leg  of  mutton  into  small  pieces,  wash,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient 
water  to  cover,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  till  tender.  Scald  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  chick  peas,  put  them  in  with  the  meat,  skimming  the  liquor,  and  boil  until 
tender.  Slice  three  onions,  fry  them  until  brown,  then  add  them  to  the  stew.  Place 
some  slices  of  toast  in  the  bottom  of  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  stew  over,  and  serve. 

Timbale  of  Mutton. 

Put  some  macaroni  into  a  stewpan  with  a  small  lump  of  butter  and  milk 
and  water  to  cover,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain  off  the  liquid.  Pour  over  the 
macaroni  a  small  quantity  of  clear  stock,  and  cook  slowly  until  tender.  Chop  some 
cold  mutton,  also  one  or  two  slices  of  bacon,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  macaroni, 
add  the  grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and  season  highly.  Grate  in  one  ounce  of  cheese 
and  toss  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  turn  onto  a  plate  and  let  it  cool. 
Butter  a  mould,  strew  grated  breadcrumbs  in  and  line  it  with  puff  paste.  When  the 
mixture  is  quite  cold,  put  it  in  the  mould,  cover  it  with  paste,  trimming  off  neatly 
round  the  edges,  press  them  together,  and  bake  the  timbale  in  a  rather  slow  oven. 
When  cooked  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish,  cut  off  the  top  and  glaze 
the  timbale.  Arrange  in  the  opening  left  by  the  removal  of  the  top  some  freshly 
prepared  and  chopped  salad;  garnish  round  the  dish  with  parsley,  slices  of  cucumber 
and  red  radishes,  and  serve  very  cold. 


206  MUTTON. 

Braised   Sheep's  Tongues  with  Lettuce. 

Steep  the  tongues  in  warm  water  with  a  little  flour  in  it  until  the  blood  has 
soaked  out  of  them,  and  blanch  them,  then  put  the  tongues  in  a  stewpan  with  a  good 
braise,  and  then  let  them  cook  slowly.  Wash  and  blanch  as  many  cabbage  lettuces 
as  there  are  tongues,  drain  them  as  free  as  possible  of  water,  open  and  cut  out 
the  stalks,  dust  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  tie  them  in  their  original  form.  Line 
a  stewpan  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  put  them  in  the  lettuces,  moisten  to  their  height 
with  broth,  and  stew  them  until  tender.  When  cooked,  peel  the  tongues,  drain  the 
lettuces,  and  squeeze  them  in  a  cloth  to  extract  the  grease.  Arrange  the  tongues 
and  lettuces  on  a  hot  dish  alternately,  pour  a  Spanish  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Grilled   Sheep's   Tongues. 

Boil  the  required  number  of  sheep's  tongues,  skin  them,  and  cut  them  into  slices; 
spread  over  each  a  mixture  of  pepper,  salt  and  curry  powder,  roll  them  up,  fasten 
them  with  skewers,  wrap  them  in  paper,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  and  grill  them. 
Serve  hot. 

Sheep's  Tongues  in   Papers. 

Wash  the  tongues  and  blanch  them  until  the  skins  can  be  easily  removed,  and 
then  peel  them  off.  Place  them  in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  nicely  flavored  stock  and 
boil  until  tender.  Butter  as  many  sheets  of  paper  as  there  are  tongues,  and  over 
each  spread  a  mixture  of  finely-chopped  mushrooms  and  sweet  herbs  that  have  been 
worked  up  in  a  lump  of  butter  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  Drain  the  tongues, 
lay  them  on  pieces  of  paper  and  wrap  them  up  well  so  that  none  of  the  seasoning  can 
escape.  Place  them  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  when  done 
on  one  side.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish,  lay  the  tongues  in  the  papers  on 
it,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Sheep's  Tongues. 

Put  two  or  three  sheep's  tongues  into  a  saucepan  with  water  and  boil  them  until 
the  skin  can  easily  be  removed,  which  will  take  about  two  hours.  Skin,  cut  them 
lengthwise  into  halves  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  parsley,  chopped  shal- 
lot, mushrooms,  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  over  sufficient  gravy  to  moisten. 
Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  cook  gently  until  the  tongues  are  tender.  Put 
them  on  a  dish,  strain  the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve. 

Casserole   of  Sheep's  Trotters  with   Rice. 

Blanch  a  number  of  small  sheep's  trotters,  remove  the  long  bone  and  split  each 
foot  in  two  lengthwise.  Put  two  chopped  onions,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  three  bay  leaves, 


MUTTON,  207 

a  small  bunch  of  thyme,  and  a  few  cloves  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  dripping  or 
chopped  suet,  and  fry  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  sift  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  it  well,  pour  in  by  degrees  two  quarts  of  white  stock,  add 
the  feet  with  a  small  lump  of  salt,  and  allow  the  whole  to  simmer  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  quite  tender,  then  drain  them  on  a  cloth.  Pour  one  quart  of  white  sauce  and 
one  pint  of  the  strained  cooking  liquor  of  the  feet  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  it  quickly 
until  reduced  to  a  thick  cream,  then  put  in  the  feet  with  about  twenty  button  mush- 
rooms and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt  and  let  them  simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  one 
teacupful  of  cream,  stir  them  in  with  the  above  mixture,  not  allowing  them  to  boil 
after  the  eggs  are  added;  squeeze  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  into  this,  turn  it  into  a 
casserole,  and  serve. 


Sheep's  Trotters,  Poulette. 


Put  about  a  dozen  sheep's  trotters  into  water  the  day  before  they  are  required. 
Split  the  hoof  in  two,  take  out  the  woolly  tuft,  trim  them  neatly,  tie  them  together  in 
fours,  scald  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  or  three  carrots,  turnips  and 
onions,  peeled  but  left  whole,  and  season  with  cloves,  peppercorns  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley  and  sweet  herbs.  Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  a  little  water,  pour  it 
into  the  saucepan,  cover  the  feet  with  cold  water,  stand  the  saucepan  over  a  moderate 
fire  and  let  the  water  boil  for  six  hours.  Take  out  the  feet,  drain  them,  remove  the 
shank  bone,  place  the  feet  in  an  empty  saucepan  and  leave  them  with  the  cover  on. 
Fry  a  large  chopped  onion  in  butter  with  one-half  teacupful  of  flour  until  nicely 
browned.  Put  one  quart  of  broth  into  another  saucepan  and  drop  in  a  bunch  of 
parsley  and  a  few  mushroom  trimmings;  stir  in  the  flour  and  onions  and  continue 
stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  broth  boils;  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  it  simmer 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Skim  it  clear  of  fat  and  pass  it  through  a  conical- 
shaped  strainer  into  the  saucepan  containing  the  feet;  then  add  two  ounces  of  button 
mushrooms,  peeled  and  trimmed,  and  a  pinch  of  pepper.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  with  a  little  milk  and  in  twenty  minutes'  time  stir  them  into  the  broth,  with  five 
or  six  small  lumps  of  butter,  a  little  lemon  juice  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley.  When  cooked  sufficiently  arrange  the  feet  upon  a  dish,  garnish  with  crou- 
tons of  fried  bread ;  they  are  then  ready  to  be  served. 

Sheep's  Trotters,  Vinaigrette. 

Trim  a  dozen  sheep's  trotters,  split  their  hoofs  and  remove  the  tuft  which  is 
found  between  the  toes;  tie  them  together  in  fours,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
cold  water  and  set  it  over  the  fire  until  the  water  boils;  then  remove  the  feet,  rinse 
them  in  a  little  cold  water,  put  them  in  the  saucepan  with  fresh  water,  add  two  or 
three  carrots  and  turnips,  one  large  onion  stuck  with  four  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  some  peppercorns  and  salt,  and  let  them  simmer  by 


208  MUTTON. 

the  side  of  the  fire  for  about  five  hours.  When  done  remove  the  feet,  untie  them, 
take  out  the  shank  bones  carefully  so  as  not  to  tear  the  flesh,  lay  the  flesh  on  a  plate, 
sprinkle  over  some  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt  and  let  them  cool.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  dip  the  feet  into  it,  roll 
them  in  finely-grated  breadcrumbs  and  broil  them  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  turning  till 
browned  on  both  sides.  Baste  with  a  little  butter,  and  serve  with  either  tartar  or 
mayonnaise  sauce. 


.  Pork. 

Bacon  and  Eggs. 

The  rashers  of  bacon,  cut  from  the  back,  must  be  trimmed  of  all  bone,  rind  and 
smoked  part,  and  put  into  a  hot  fryingpan  very  clean.  Cook  until  nicely  browned, 
but  without  burning,  taking  care  that  the  fat  does  not  "catch."  When  the  bacon  is 
laid  on  a  dish,  the  shells  of  the  eggs  must  be  carefully  broken  so  as  not  to  break  the 
yolks,  each  being  broken  separately  and  kept  from  one  another.  As  each  egg  is 
added  to  the  fryingpan,  the  white  should  be  allowed  to  set  before  adding  another. 
Baste  them  with  hot  fat,  trim  and  put  one  on  each  piece  of  bacon.  Mashed  potatoes 
may  be  served  around  the  sides  of  the  dish  if  desired. 

Bacon  and  Spinach. 

Line  a  pudding-dish  with  thin  slices  of  raw  bacon  trimmed  to  one  size  and 
arranged  symmetrically.  Take  boiled  spinach  ready  chopped  for  the  table,  and 
season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  also  some  boiled  carrots,  turnips  and  boiled 
onions.  Whip  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  the  carrots  and 
turnips  with  the  egg  and  seasoning.  Arrange  the  squares  of  vegetables  alternately 
amongst  the  slices  of  bacon,  and  place  in  a  saucepan  partially  filled  with  boiling 
water,  but  not  deep  enough  to  boil  over,  and  steam  for  an  hour.  Turn  out  on  a  flat 
dish  and  serve  with  a  rich  brown  gravy. 

Boiled   Bacon  and  Cabbage. 

This  dish  may  also  be  prepared  with  broad  beans,  in  lieu  of  the  cabbage ;  in 
either  case  the  process  is  the  same,  and  is  as  follows :  Cut  a  good  cabbage  into 
quarters  and  remove  some  of  the  thick  part  of  them,  as  much  as  can  be  done  without 
disturbing  the  leaves.  Soak  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  until  it  is  wanted.  Put  the  cab- 
bage into  a  large  saucepan  containing  some  water  boiling,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  pinch  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Take  some  good 
bacon,  cleaning  off  the  smoky  parts,  place  in  cold  water  and  then  boil  for  half  an 
hour  separately.  Drain  both  the  cabbage  and  the  bacon  and  put  them  together  in 
one  pot,  covering  them  with  boiling  water  which  has  not  been  used  before,  and  let 
them  cook  slowly  for  another  half-hour.  Remove  the  cabbage  as  whole  as  possible, 
drain  on  a  colander,  and,  after  slicing  the  bacon,  serve  it  on  the  cabbage  in  a  dish  with 
a  drainer. 

209 


210  PORK. 

Broiled   Bacon. 

Broil  in  a  double  gridiron  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  some  slices  of  streaky  bacon 
nicely  trimmed,  turning  frequently  till  done.  Or  the  slices  cut  to  one  size  may  be 
rolled  up  and  stuck  on  skewers  when  they  may  either  be  broiled  or  baked  in  an  oven. 
Remove  from  the  skewer  before  serving. 

Broiled   Liver  and   Bacon. 

As  broiling  in  most  cases  is  wasteful,  the  liver  and  bacon  are  generally  fried 
together,  but  the  dish  is  somewhat  spoiled  by  this  method.  The  best  plan  is  to  fry 
the  well-trimmed  slices  of  bacon,  and  after  having  washed  and  sliced  the  liver  not  too 
thick,  say  a  third  of  an  inch,  dry  it  thoroughly  on  a  cloth,  flour  it  and  dip  into  the 
bacon  fat  in  the  fryingpan  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  adding  pepper  and  salt  while 
cooking.  When  done,  lay  each  slice  on  a  dish  with  a  piece  of  bacon  on  each  piece 
of  liver. 

Fried    Bacon. 

Select  a  piece  of  streaky  or  back  and  trim  off  the  rind,  bone  and  smoky  portions 
before  slicing.  Cook  in  a  fryingpan  until  the  fat  is  transparent  and  the  lean  lightly 
browned  on  both  sides  and  crisp.  Drain  on  paper,  and  serve. 

Preparing   Bacon   for   Breakfast. 

The  bacon  must  be  fresh  and  in  fine  condition.  It  is  cut  with  a  keen  knife,  the 
under  bones  being  cut  off,  and  both  edges  pared  neatly,  also  the  end  opposite  from 
the  string  for  hanging  it  up.  Then  cut  up  the  requisite  number  of  slices  for  im- 
mediate use,  and  no  more.  Thin  slices  are  always  preferable,  so  that  the  bacon, 
whether  boiled  or  fried,  will  be  crisp  and  tasty.  When  cutting  the  slices,  be  careful 
not  to  detach  the  skin;  also  cut  crosswise,  but  never  lengthwise.  Arrange  on  the 
broiler,  and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire  for  two  minutes  on  each  side.  Dress  on  a  hot 
dish,  serving  at  once.  Four  minutes  is  plenty  of  time  for  the  frying. 

Bacon   Salted,  Dried   and   Smoked. 

The  previous  description  applies  precisely  with  regard  to  the  salting  and  drying. 
The  next  step  is  the  smoking.  The  smoke  is  generally  that  of  burning  wood  or 
straw,  hickory  chips  or  corncobs.  Woods  containing  resins,  such  as  pine,  are  not 
advisable,  as  they  would  give  an  unpleasant  flavor  to  the  bacon.  They  are  usually 
dried  slowly  over  the  smoke  made  by  burning  sawdust,  oak  or  beach,  the  fire  being 
kept  night  and  day  by  smothering  with  dry  sawdust.  The  flitches  should  be  hung  up 
high  until  quite  dry,  but  not  so  hard  that  the  rind  begins  to  peel  off.  Sometimes  the 
rubbing  over  the  flitch  with  bran  is  advocated,  although  not  especially  recommended, 


PORK.  211 

as  it  encourages   flies   to   settle  on  it.     This  may  be  prevented  by  wrapping  in  bags 
before  they  are  suspended. 

Bacon  with   Macaroni. 

Place  a  couple  of  ounces  of  macaroni  with  a  little  well  seasoned  stock  in 
a  saucepan,  and  simmer  gently  on  the  side  of  the  fire  until  quite  tender,  which  will 
take  about  an  hour,  but  care  should  be  taken  that  it  is  not  allowed  to  become  over- 
done or  pulpy.  Add  a  little  streaky  bacon  boiled  and  cut  into  squares,  and  a  small 
lump  of  butter.  Toss  the  pan  over  the  fire  for  a  few  moments,  seasoning  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  turn  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Baked   Pork. 

The  skin,  if  left  on,  should  be  well  scraped  with  a  dull  knife,  and  afterwards  wiped 
thoroughly  with  a  wet  cloth  and  scored  into  little  squares.  If,  however,  the  skin  has 
been  removed  trim  off  some  of  the  loose  fat,  cut  out  the  chine  or  backbone,  disjoint- 
ing it  from  the  ends  of  the  ribs  so  that  it  may  facilitate  the  carving  of  the  meat.  Place 
in  a  drippingpan  a  few  slices  of  carrot,  turnip  and  onion,  together  with  a  dozen  cloves, 
whole,  a  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns  and  a  few  leaves  of  parsley  or  celery;  lay  the 
pork  upon  the  vegetables,  place  the  pan  in  a  moderate  oven  and  cook  to  a  brown, 
when  it  may  be  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  pounded  sage,  and  finish  the  cooking, 
allowing  about  fifteen  minutes  to  each  pound  of  the  meat.  One  hour  before  the  pork 
is  done  prepare  the  garnish  as  follows:  Procure  a  dozen  peeled  white  onions,  break 
the  layers  apart  and  put  them  in  a  pan,  with  a  teaspoonful  each  of  sugar  and  butter, 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  set  the  pan  in  the  oven,  occasionally  shaking  it,  in  order 
to  move  the  onions  about  and  insure  their  browning  with  uniformity;  after  the  onions 
have  been  prepared  wash  four  sour  apples,  quarter  them,  and  remove  the  cores,  put 
them  into  a  pan  with  barely  enough  water  in  to  cover,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
on  each  and  bake  them  until  they  are  tender,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  become  broken, 
and  keep  both  the  onions  and  apples  hot,  serving  them  with  the  pork.  When  the 
meat  is  done  place  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  arrange  the  onions  and  apples  in  little  groups 
around  it,  and  serve  with  a  dish  of  plain-boiled  potatoes  with  brown  gravy.  The  gravy 
may  be  prepared  by  pouring  out  nearly  all  of  the  drippings  trom  the  pan  in  which  the 
pork  was  cooked,  leaving  in  the  scraps  of  vegetables,  set  the  pan  over, the  fire  and  stir 
in  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  flour,  cook  it  until  brown  and  then  add  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  gradually  a  little  at  a  time,  season  the  gravy  with  salt  and  pepper  and  again 
boil  for  a  moment  or  two,  strain  and  it  is  ready  for  serving  with  the  pork. 

Broiled   Pork   with   Chili   Sauce. 

Prepare  the  chili  sauce  before  cooking  the  meat,  and  in  a  goodly  quantity,  as  it 
will  keep  for  a  considerable  length  of  time.  The  cutlets  are  to  be  about  half  an  inch 
in  thickness  and  cut  from  a  leg  of  fresh  pork.  Place  them  between  the  bars  of  a  double 


212  PORK. 

gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire  and  cook  them  for  about  twenty  minutes.  When  done, 
place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  over  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  put  a  little  butter  over 
them,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  chili  sauce. 


Broiled   Pork   Chops. 


Cut  from  a  loin  of  pork  the  required  quantity  of  chops,  trim  them  neatly  from 
all  fat  and  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes.  Remove  and  put 
them  on  a  gridiron  or  grill  over  a  clear  fire  and  broil  them  until  done.  Pour  into  a 
frymgpan  with  the  fat  from  the  chops,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  and  add  a  little  salt 
and  pepper,  thickening  with  a  small  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Pour  the  sauce 
onto  a  dish  through  a  fine  sieve,  arrange  the  chops  in  it,  and  serve. 

Curried    Pork. 

Remove  the  skin  and  most  of  the  fat  from  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  pork  and 
chop  it  into  small  thin  slices,  which  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter,  frying 
them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  four  onions  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  fried, 
a  tablespoonful  each  of  curry-powder  and  paste,  and  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  or  stock, 
place  the  pan  over  the  fire,  and,  as  soon  as  it  boils,  remove  to  one  side  and  let  it  cook 
gently  for  from  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour,  then  take  out  the  pieces  of 
meat,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  reduce  the  liquor  to  half  its  original  quantity,  after 
which  pour  it  over  the  meat,  and  serve  garnished  with  a  border  of  well  boiled  rice, 
or,  if  preferable,  the  rice  may  be  served  separately. 

Pork   Cutlets   and   Anchovy   Sauce. 

Broil  on  a  well-greased  gridiron  over  the  fire  seven  nicely  cut  and  trimmed 
cutlets  of  pork ;  place  some  anchovy  sauce  warmed  on  a  very  hot  dish;  put  frills  on 
the  bones  of  the  pork  cutlets,  and  lay  them  around  the  dish,  overlapping  each  other, 
and  serve  very  hot,  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Fried    Pork   Cutlets. 

Cut  off  all  the  skin  and  most  of  the  fat  from  a  loin  of  pork,  and  chop  it  up  into 
cutlets,  which  place  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  to  a  good  golden 
brown  color.  In  the  meanwhile,  put  the  bones,  skin  and  any  trimmings  of  bacon  or 
ham,  into  a  saucepan  with  a  couple  of  onions  cut  into  slices,  and  when  they  become 
well  browned,  pour  over  them  sufficient  water  to  nearly  cover,  and  boil  for  two  hours, 
then  strain  and  skim  off  all  fat  ;  pour  into  another  saucepan  with  a  little  isinglass  to 
thicken  it,  and  mix  in  a  little  browning  to  color.  Brush  the  cutlets  over  with  this 
glaze,  put  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  a  little  tomato  sauce,  serving  quickly. 


PORK. 


213 


Pig' 


S 


Ears. 


These  are  esteemed  as  food  principally  on  account  of  their  crisp,  cartilaginous 
character. 

Baked   Pig's   Ears. 

Singe  off  all  the  hair  from  half  a  dozen  or  so  pig's  ears,  and  scrape  and  blanch 
them.  Let  them  get  cold,  put  them  into  warmed  butter,  rub  them  over  with  bread 
crumbs,  covering  them  completely,  then  dip  them  into  well-beaten  yplk  of  egg,  and 
breadcrumb  them  again.  Put  them  in  a  baking  dish  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake 
until  done  and  lightly  browned.  Take  them  out,  place  on  a  dish,  pour  over  some 
remoulade  sauce  and  serve. 

Braised   Pig's   Ears. 

Thoroughly  clean  the  required  quantity  of  pig's  ears,  singe  off  all  the  hair,  and. 
scrape  them.  Put  a  layer  of  slices  of  fat  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  braising  pan,  place 
the  ears  on  it,  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  few  slices  of  carrots  and 
onions  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Pour  in  sufficient  stock  to  moisten,  set  the  pan 
on  the  fire  with  hot  ashes  on  the  lid,  and  let  them  cook  till  they  are  done.  Strain 
the  liquor  through  a  fine  sieve,  skim  off  the  fat,  arrange  the  ears  on  a  dish,  pour  the 
liquor  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Pig's    Ears,    Lyonese. 

Singe  off  all  the  hair  from  some  pig's  ears,  scrape,  wash  them  well,  and  cut 
lengthwise  into  strips.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  stock,  add  a  small 
quantity  of  flour,  a  few  slices  of  onions  fried,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place  the 
pan  over  a  slow  fire,  and  simmer  the  liquor  until  the  ears  are  thoroughly  cooked. 
Arrange  them  on  a  dish,  add  a  little  lemon  juice  to  the  liquor,  pour  it  with  the  onions 
over  the  ears,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  slices  of  fried  bread. 


Boiled    Pig's    Feet. 


Wash  some  pig's  feet  well,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  stewpan,  with  just  water 
enough  to  cover,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  boils  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  strain 
off  the  water,  and  plunge  them  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  Clean  the  pan  and  put  the 
feet  into  it  again,  with  two  quarts  of  water,  one  tablespoon  each  of  salt  and  vinegar, 
and  one  ounce  of  flour  blended  smoothly  in  a  little  cold  water.  Put  the  pan  over  the 
fire  and  stir  the  contents  till  they  boil,  then  place  over  a  slow  fire  and  simmer  for  four 
hours.  Place  the  feet  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  some  good  white  sauce,  and  serve  hot. 

Broiled-  Pig's   Feet. 

Thoroughly  clean  as  many  pig's  feet  as  are  required,  split  them  lengthwise  in 
halves,  tie  them  round  with  broad  tape  so  that  they  will  not  open,  or  shrink  in  cook- 


214  PORK. 

ing,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  seasoning  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf,  allspice, 
carrots  and  onions,  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  and  boil  slowly  till  tender,  then  let 
them  cool  in  the  liquor.  Dip  them  in  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  warmed  butter; 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  seasoned  with  very  finely 
chopped  shallot  and  parsley.  Put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil 
until  well  and  evenly  browned.  Unbind  and  arrange  them  on  a  dish  and  garnish 
with  fried  parsley,  or  they  can  be  served  with  Robert  sauce. 


Crepinettes  of  Pig's   Feet. 


Put  the  four  feet  of  a  pig  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  and  boil  them  till  they  are 
quite  tender  ;  take  them  out,  drain,  and  cut  them  in  slices  about  one-half  inch  in 
thickness.  Put  some  pig's  caul  in  a  basin  of  water  to  steep,  take  it  out,  drain 
and  wipe  it  dry  on  a  cloth.  Prepare  some  forcemeat  with  knuckle  of  veal  and  fat 
bacon  in  equal  quantities  and  mixed  with  a  little  spiced  salt ;  spread  a  layer  of  this 
over  the  caul  about  one-fourth  inch  thick,  three  inches  long,  and  one  and  one-half 
inches  wide.  Have  ready  some  truffles,  cooked  in  Madeira  and  cut  in  slices,  arrange 
a  few  of  them  on  some  forcemeat  and  then  a  few  pieces  of  the  pigs'  feet.  Cover 
over  the  whole  with  another  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  and  then  roll  over  the  caul  so  as 
to  form  an  oval,  three  inches  in  length  and  two  inches  in  width.  When  the  required 
number  of  crepinettes  are  made,  dip  them  in  warmed  butter,  then  roll  them  in  bread 
crumbs,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil  slowly  for  fifteen 
minutes,  or  until  they  are  a  light  brown  color.  Put  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a 
little  perigueux  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Fricasseed    Pig's    Feet  and  Ears. 

Clean  and  wash  the  feet  and  ears  of  a  pig,  cut  them  up  in  small  pieces,  put  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  milk,  and  boil  for  an  hour.  Strain  off  the  liquor,  and 
put  the  pieces  of  meat  in  another  saucepan,  add  a  breakfast  cupful  of  veal  broth,  a 
small  onion,  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  little  powdered  mace.  Simmer  over  a 
slow  fire  until  well  done,  then  mix  in  one  gill  of  cream,  one  ounce  of  butter  well 
rolled  in  flour,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  warm  up  again,  turn  all  on  to  a  dish,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Stewed  Pig's   Feet. 

Place  a  couple  of  thin  slices  of  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  feet 
with  a  blade  of  mace,  a  few  peppercorns,  two  or  three  sprigs  of  thyme,  and  enough 
good  gravy  to  moisten  them  to  height,  and  boil  slowly.  When  quite  tender,  split  each 
foot  lengthwise  into  halves,  and  lay  them  open  on  a  hot  dish;  strain  their  cooking 
liquor  into  a  small  saucepan,  mix  with  it  a  small  lump  of  butter  that  has  been  kneaded 
with  flour,  and  the  bacon  from  the  stewpan,  first  cutting  it  up  into  small  pieces.  Let 
the  sauce  simmer  at  the  edge  of  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  pour  it  over 


PORK.  215 

the  feet,  garnish  them  with  small  croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  nicely  browned  in 
butter,  and  serve. 

Stuffed  Pig's  Feet,  Perigueux. 

To  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  boned  turkey  forcemeat,  add  two  minced  truffles 
and  one-half  wineglass  of  Madeira  wine,  and  mix  well  together  in  a  bowl.  Shred 
six  pieces  of  crepinette  (a  skin  found  in  the  stomach  of  the  pig)  the  size  of  the  hand 
on  a  table,  lay  on  each  one  a  piece  of  forcemeat  the  size  of  an  egg,  spread  it  well, 
and  lay  one-half  of  a  boned  pig's  foot  on  top.  Cover  with  another  light  layer  of 
forcemeat,  and  finish  each  with  three  thin  slices  of  truffles.  Cover  the  crepinettes  so 
that  they  get  the  form  of  envelopes,  fold  them  up  and  dip  them  one  after  the  other 
in  beaten  egg,  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  cook  in  a  sautepan  with  two  ounces  of 
clarified  butter.  Place  a  heavy  weight  on  top  of  the  feet,  cook  on  a  slow  fire 
for  twelve  minutes  on  each  side,  and  serve  with  one-half  pint  of  hot  perigueux  sauce 
on  the  dish,  and  the  pig's  feet  on  the  top;  or  they  may  be  served  with  hot  Madeira 
sauce. 

Broiled  Fillets  or  Tenderloins  of  Pork. 

Prepare,  trimming  well,  a  dozen  fillets  of  pork,  and  dip  them  in  warmed  butter, 
then  breadcrumb  them  all  over,  and  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  broil 
them  until  done,  then  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  little  poivrade  sauce 
in  a  sauceboat  and  any  desired  vegetables  which  may  be  in  season. 

Fillet  of  Pork,  Hunter's  Style. 

Remove  the  meat  from  a  leg  of  pork  weighing  about  five  pounds  and  stuff  the 
cavity  where  the  bone  has  been  taken  out  with  well-seasoned  pork  stuffing,  score  the 
skin  and  lard  the  upper  or  thick  surface  with  thick  lardoons  of  pork;  place  a  few 
slices  of  bacon  fat,  carrots,  onions  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  in  a  braising  pan  and 
put  the  meat  on  top,  brown  the  latter  a  little  and  add  a  little  brown  stock  and  vinegar 
to  moisten,  cooking  until  the  meat  is  thoroughly  done;  then  remove  the  meat  and 
place  it  on  a  hot  dish  to  keep  it  warm;  drain  the  liquor,  thicken  it  with  a  little  dis- 
solved gelatine,  adding  coloring  if  required,  and  reduce  the  liquor  by  boiling  and 
afterward  pour  it  over  the  meat,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Hams. 

With  a  sharp  knife  cut  round  the  knuckle  and  lengthwise  along  and  right  down 
to  the  edge  of  the  bone  until  the  aitch  bone  is  reached;  then  make  a  straight  cross- 
cut right  around,  and  the  bone  can  be  removed.  Keep  the  ham  hung  up  in  a  dry 
place  and  when  any  slices  are  required  as  for  frying  or  boiling  they  are  easily  obtained 
and  the  skin  trimmed  off. 


2i6  PORK. 

Baked  Ham. 

Put  about  a  ten-pound  ham  into  a  bowl  with  a  good  supply  of  water  and  let  it 
soak  for  twelve  or  fourteen  hours.  Remove  it,  trim  off  all  the  uneatable  parts  from 
the  underneath  side  and  spread  it  over  thickly  with  a  paste  of  water  and  flour.  Place 
it  in  a  baking  dish  and  set  the  dish  in  a  well-heated  oven  and  bake  for  about  four 
hours.  When  done  remove,  take  off  the  flour  and  water  crust,  skin,  brush  over  with 
glaze  or  grate  a  little  crust  of  bread  over  it,  place  a  paper  frill  on  the  knuckles,  and 
serve  with  a  garnish  of  vegetables  cooked  and  cut  up  into  various  shapes.  By  cook- 
ing a  ham  in  this  wa^  •'*  is  stewed  in  its  own  juice  and  is  very  full  of  flavor. 

Baked  Stuffed  Ham. 

Boil  the  ham  until  it  can  easily  be  skinned,  remove  the  skin,  and  gash  the  ham 
to  the  bone ;  fill  up  the  cuts  with  a  forcemeat  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  a  very  little 
thyme,  finely  chopped  parsley,  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  enough  butter  to 
mix  these  ingredients  to  a  paste.  Brush  over  the  ham  with  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
eggs,  dust  it  with  sifted  breadcrumbs,  and  bake  slowly  until  quite  done.  Or  if  a 
hot  boiled  ham  be  served  up,  and  only  a  small  portion  of  it  used,  the  spaces  where 
the  slices  have  been  taken  from  may  be  filled  with  forcemeat,  brushed  over  with 
beaten  egg,  sprinkled  with  breadcrumbs,  and  put  into  an  oven  until  browned,  the 
ham  being  already  sufficiently  cooked. 

Braised  Ham. 

Choose  a  lean  ham,  partly  bone  it,  without  going  to  the  first  joint  of  the  first  end, 
saw  the  shank  bone,  trim  the  meat,  and  soak  the  ham  in  water  for  twelve  or  thirteen 
hours.  Tie  it  in  a  cloth,  place  it  in  a  large  saucepan,  cover  with  water  and  boil  for 
four  hours  with  a  few  cloves,  peppercorns  and  sweet  herbs,  excepting  bay  leaves. 
When  cooked  remove  the  ham,  drain  it,  peel  off  the  rind,  put  it  in  a  narrow  braising- 
pan,  pour  a  bottle  of  Madeira  wine  over,  place  the  cover  on,  and  boil  until  reduced, 
being  careful  to  baste  frequently.  Drain,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  mix  a  little  brown 
sauce  with  the  cooking  stock,  reduce  it,  and  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  red  cur- 
rant jelly.  Strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  over  the  ham,  and  serve  with 
vegetables. 

Boiled  Ham. 

Wash  the  ham,  place  it  in  a  saucepan,  and  cover  it  with  hot  water ;  simmer 
gently  for  about  five  hours,  then  move  the  saucepan  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  and  let 
the  ham  remain  in  the  water  for  an  hour  or  two  longer.  When  it  is  almost  cold 
remove,  sprinkle  over  baked  breadcrumbs  and  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  fine 
moist  sugar. 


PORK. 


Broiled  Boned  Ham. 


217 


Wash  a  ham,  place  it  in  a  saucepan,  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  boil  it  for  four 
or  five  hours,  according  to  its  size.  Take  out  the  bone,  roll  the  ham,  place  it  in  a 
basin  with  a  large  weight  on  the  top.  When  cold  put  it  on  a  dish,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Ham. 

Either  freshen  a  slice  of  ham  by  soaking  it  in  icewater  over  night,  or  by  heat- 
ing it  in  enough  water  to  cover  it ;  then  wipe  dry,  put  it  between  the  bars  of  a  grid- 
iron and  brown  slightly  on  both  sides.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  either 
plain  or  with  fried  eggs. 

Ham   Cooked  in  Madeira  Wine  or  Champagne. 

Put  a  ham  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  for  a  day  and  a  night ;  take 
it  out,  drain  it,  put  it  into  another  saucepan,  pour  over  it  one  pint  of  Madeira  or  cham- 
pagne, and  cook  gently  until  done.  Put  it  on  a  dish,  pour  the  liquor  over,  and  serve 
hot  with  a  garnish  of  cooked  vegetables. 

Ham    Croquettes. 

Chop  very  small  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  ham,  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of 
boiled  and  mashed  potatoes,  two  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  seasoning  all  to  taste;  then  stir  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Flour  the 
hands  and  shape  the  mixture  into  small  balls;  put  some  fat  in  a  fryingpan,  and  when 
it  is  hot  place  the  croquettes  in  the  pan  and  fry  them  an  equal  brown  all  over;  place 
them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve.  For  a  light  luncheon  or  a  late 
supper  dish  these  croquettes  are  well  suited,  or  they  may  be  served  for  breakfast. 

Deviled   Ham. 

Cut  some  thin  slices  of  ham,  spread  them  with  mustard  mixed  with  oil  and  vine- 
gar, place  them  in  a  baking  dish  and  cook  in  the  oven.  Boil  some  potatoes,  mash, 
put  a  mound  of  them  on  a  dish,  arrange  the  pieces  of  cooked  ham  against  the  mound, 
and  serve.  Tartar  sauce  is  sometimes  served  with  this  dish. 

Fried    Ham. 

Cut  off  a  thick  slice  of  ham,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  in  sufficient  cold 
water  to  cover,  and  let  the  water  come  to  the  boil.  Pour  it  off,  put  the  ham  over  the 
fire  and  fry  slowly  until  it  is  brown  on  both  sides.  Then  season  with  pepper,  and  serve. 
Eggs  are  usually  served  with  fried  ham.  They  may  be  fried  in  the  same  pan  or  sep- 


2i8  PORK. 

arately  in  sufficient  fat  to  prevent  burning,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  placed 
round  the  dish  and  over  the  ham. 

Frizzled   Ham. 

Cut  about  one  pound  of  fat  ham  into  as  thin  slices  as  possible.  Put  a  fryingpan 
over  the  fire,  and  let  it  become  smoking  hot,  then  put  in  the  slices  of  ham  and  fry  for 
two  or  three  minutes ;  dust  them  with  dry  flour,  and  cook  until  the  flour  is  brown. 
During  this  time  mix  one  tablespoonful  each  of  vinegar  and  dry  mustard  together. 
When  brown  add  the  mustard  and  vinegar,  and  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  the 
ham.  Boil  gently  for  a  moment,  and  serve.  Eggs  may  be  cooked  with  the  ham  in 
place  of  the  flour  and  water. 

Ham   and   Chicken    Pie. 

Trim  off  the  skin  of  some  cold  chicken,  and  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces 
(chopping  it),  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  finely  chopped  lean  ham  and  a  small 
lot  of  chopped  shallot.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  pounded  mace,  and  moisten 
with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  white  stock.  Butter  a  piedish,  line  the  edges  with  puff 
paste,  and  put  in  the  mixture  ;  place  a  flat  of  puff  paste  on  the  top,  trim  it  round  the 
edges,  moisten  and  press  together,  punch  a  small  hole  in  the  top,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  cooked  pour  a  small  quantity  of  hot  cream  through  the 
hole  at  the  top  of  the  pie,  stand  the  piedish  on  a  flat  dish,  and  serve- 

Roasted   Ham. 

Choose  a  small  ham,  soak  it  for  an  hour  in  fresh  water,  pare  the  surface,  place 
it  in  a  large  saucepan,  and  cover  with  cold  water ;  when  boiling  move  the  saucepan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  it  simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  then  drain 
the  ham,  remove  the  thighbone,  and  peel  off  the  rind.  Put  it  in  a  basin,  pour  in 
enough  cooked  marinade  to  cover,  and  let  it  macerate  for  about  twenty-four  hours, 
with  the  pan  covered.  Drain  the  pan,  mask  it  with  a  vegetable  mirepoix,  cover  it 
with  two  or  three  buttered  sheets  of  paper,  put  it  on  a  cradle-spit,  and  roast  before  a 
clear  fire,  basting  now  and  then  with  fat.  In  the  course  of  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
mix  some  of  the  marinade  in  the  drippings,  and  baste  the  ham  with  it.  Remove  the 
papers  from  the  ham  in  another  hour's  time  and  roast  thirty  minutes  longer.  Wrhen 
cooked  take  it  off  the  spit  and  place  it  on  a  hot  oval  dish ;  strain  the  stock  from  the 
dripping-pan,  skim  off  the  fat,  reduce  some  of  it  to  half  glaze,  mix  with  it  one  tea- 
cupful  of  brown  sauce,  stir  it  over  the  fire  again  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  pour  it 
over  the  ham,  and  serve  with  vegetable  croquettes  in  a  separate  dish. 

Ham  Steaks. 

Cut  some  slices  of  raw  ham  of  moderate  thickness  and  put  them  into  a  frying- 
pan  with  a  little  water;  let  it  boil,  turn  the  steaks  and  continue  boiling  until  dry, 


PORK.  219 

sprinkle  them  with  flour,  pour  over  a  teacupful  of  milk,  put  in  a  small  lump  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard  and  a  little  cayenne.  When  it  boils  put  the  ham  on  a 
hot  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  serve. 

Hashed   Pork. 

Cut  into  slices  some  cold  boiled  or  roast  pork  and  sprinkle  with  some  salt  and  a 
small  quantity  of  cayenne;  then  place  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  an  ounce  and  a  half 
of  butter,  a  small  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  dessertspoonful  of  walnut  liquor,  and  a 
similar  quantity  of  soy  or  mushroom  catsup.  Heat  the  sauce  well  and  put  into  it  the 
slices  of  pork  and  let  them  get  well-heated  through  and  through,  but  taking  good 
care  that  the  sauce  does  not  come  to  a  boil;  lay  the  pork  on  a  hot  dish,  squeeze  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice  over  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  pork,  and  serve. 

Baked    Pig's   Head. 

Cut  a  pig's  head  into  halves  and  thoroughly  clean  it,  take  out  the  brains,  trim 
.the  snout  and  ears  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Wash  the 
brains  thoroughly,  blanch  them,  beat  them  up  with  an  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  some 
finely-chopped  or  pounded  sage,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Fry  or  brown  them  on 
the  fire,  and  serve  with  the  head. 

Boiled  Pig's  Head. 

Take  out  the  bone  from  half  a  pig's  head,  rub  it  over  with  salt  and  put  it  into  a 
basin  with  a  few  sweet  herbs,  cloves  and  peppercorns.  Pour  over  one-half  pint  of 
vinegar  and  let  it  remain  for  a  day  or  so.  Take  it  out,  drain,  wipe  it  dry  on  a  cloth, 
singe  it  and  cut  it  in  pieces;  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  pour  in  the  strained  vinegar 
pickle,  add  a  little  water  and  a  few  vegetables  cut  in  pieces,  place  the  pan  over  the 
fire,  bring  to  a  boil,  then  cook  over  a  slow  fire  for  four  hours.  Take  out  the  pieces 
of  meat,  trim  the  outer  sides  of  the  tube  of  the  ear,  place  it  in  the  center  of  the  dish 
with  the  pieces  of  meat  round  it,  pour  over  some  poivrade  sauce,  and  serve. 

Pig's  Kidneys,  Maitre  d' Hotel. 

Clean  and  wash  some  pig's  kidneys,  cut  them  down  the  center  without  quite 
dividing  them  and  run  them  through  with  a  skewer  to  keep  them  fast.  Rub  them 
with  a  little  butter,  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear 
fire,  and  broil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Take  them  off  when  done,  remove  the  skewers,  put 
them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  little  maitre  d'hotel  sauce,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Pig's    Kidneys. 

Put  a  couple  of  pig's  kidneys  in  a  little  cold  water  and  steep  them  for  a  few 
minutes.  Take  them  out,  drain,  cut  them  into  slices  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 


220  PORK. 

together  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  half  as  much  minced 
parsley,  two  chives,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira;  place 
the  pan  on  the  fire  and  cook  the  contents  gently  without  letting  them  boil  for  fifteen 
minutes.  They  must  be  stirred  constantly,  as  they  are  very  likely  to  burn.  When 
done,  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot.  Pig's  kidneys  may  also  be  cooked  in 
the  same  way  as  sheep's  if  desired. 


Roasted  Leg  of  Pork. 


Select  a  leg  of  pork  weighing  about  six  pounds,  and  score  the  rind  evenly;  place 
it  on  a  bakingpan  and  set  it  in  the  oven,  turning  it  frequently  to  insure  even  cooking; 
this  will  require  about  three  hours  for  this  weight  of  meat;  baste  frequently  with  its 
own  drippings,  and  when  done,  place  it  on  a  dish,  thicken  the  gravy  with  a  little  flour 
and  butter,  pour  it  over  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  tomato  sauce. 

Roasted  Loin  of  Pork,  Bordelaise. 

Trim  off  most  of  the  fat  from  half  a  saddle  of  pork,  take  out  the  spine  bone,  and 
slightly  score  the  fat,  and  stick  in  each  end  a  clove  of  garlic;  truss  the  loin  and  place 
it  in  a  baking  pan  with  half  a  pint  of  water  and  sprinkle  it  over  with  powdered  sage, 
salt  and  pepper;  cover  the  meat  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  roast  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  basting  it  frequently.  When  it  has  cooked  for  an  hour  and  ten  minutes, 
place  a  few  button  mushrooms  around  it,  and  baste  them  with  the  liquor  in  the  pan; 
then  take  out  the  pork,  put  it  on  a  dish,  and  garnish  it  with  cooked  mushrooms;  skim 
off  th'e  fat  from  the  gravy,  adding  to  it  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  rich  gravy  or  a  little 
glaze,  boil  it  up  once,  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or  strainer  over  the  meat,  and 
serve. 

Roasted  Loin  of  Pork,  French  Style. 

Select  a  large  loin  of  pork,  score  and  cut  off  the  minion  or  small  fillet,  remove 
the  skin  and  take  out  the  sinews,  and  chop  fine;  add  an  equal  bulk  of  breadcrumbs  to 
the  minced  meat,  and  mix  in  a  little  sage  and  parsley,  together  with  one  small  onion, 
all  finely  chopped,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  and  pepper  over,  and  form  it  into  a  stiff  paste 
with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs;  fill  the  cavity  of  the  loin  where  the  fillet  was  taken 
from  with  this  stuffing,  and  cover  it  with  a  piece  of  pig's  caul,  then  fill  the  flap,  and 
tie  up  the  loin,  after  which  set  it  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  roasting  it  for  an  hour.  Place 
it  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  pour  over  a  little  piquant  sauce  or  rich  gravv, 
and  serve. 

Roasted    Marinaded   Pork. 

Trim  well  all  the  skin  from  a  piece  of  pork,  rub  it  thoroughly  with  salt,  place  in 
a  deep  dish  with  a  few  sliced  onions,  sage  leaves,  thyme,  basil,  a  few  juniper  berries 
and  cloves,  dusting  it  over  with  plenty  of  pepper  ;  baste  the  meat  with  four  or  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  days  ;  basting  and  turning  it  two 


PORK.  221 

or  three  times  a  day,  then  put  it  together  with  the  other  ingredients  in  a  baking  dish, 
place  it  in  the  oven,  and  bake  it  until  half  cooked,  take  the  dish  out  of  the  oven,  pour 
in  boiling  water,  and  stir  it  thoroughly  ;  strain  the  gravy  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  return 
it  to  the  oven,  and  finish  cooking  it,  basting  the  meat  well  while  baking.  Put  the  meat 
on  a  hot  dish,  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  sauce  and  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve. 
Pour  it  over  the  meat,  and  serve. 

Minced  Pork. 

Chop  up  finely  a  couple  of  pounds  of  fresh  lean  pork,  and  break  up  half  a  pound 
of  stale  bread,  soaking  it  till  soft  in  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk  ;  mix  together 
the  minced  pork  and  soaked  bread,  with  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  season  with 
pepper,  salt  and  powdered  sage ;  place  this  mixture  in  a  buttered  earthenware  dish, 
place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  two  hours,  and  serve  hot  with  fried  apples. 

Pickled   Pork. 

After  the  pig  has  been  dressed  and  is  cool  enough  to  cut  up,  pack  the  side 
pieces  in  a  cask,  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  salt,  and  pour  in  enough  water  to  come  to 
the  top  of  the  pork  ;  place  a  cover  over,  with  a  heavy  weight  on  top,  keeping  the 
pork  well  excluded  from  the  air  until  it  is  wanted. 

Baked    Pickled  Pork  and  Beans. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  of  water  one  quart  of  white  beans,  which  have  been  pre- 
viously soaked  for  twelve  hours  in  water,  and  boil  them  gently  until  they  are  done 
and  can  be  easily  pierced  with  a  pin ;  great  care  should  be  used  not  to  boil  them  too 
fast,  as  they  will  break  open ;  a  small  chopped  onion  may  be  boiled  with  them  if 
desired.  Turn  them  out  into  a  colander,  and  pour  cold  water  over  to  cool  them. 
Put  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  salted  pork,  after  cutting  it  into  strips,  three  or  four 
in  number,  into  a  deep  baking  dish,  and  pour  in  enough  boiling  water  to  cover. 
Bury  the  pieces  of  pork  in  the  beans,  then  put  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  into  a  basin, 
and  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard  mixed  with  half  a  teacupful  of  molasses ;  pour  in 
enough  water  to  make  the  entire  quantity  half  a  pint,  and  pour  this  mixture  over  the 
beans  and  pork,  adding  enough  more  of  the  boiling  water  to  make  them  well  mois- 
tened. Place  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  an  hour ;  then  turn  the  beans 
out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  the  pieces  of  pork  in  the  center.  A  teaspoonful  of 
bicarbonate  of  soda  should  be  added  to  the  saucepan  in  which  the  beans  are  being 
boiled,  as  it  will  destroy  the  acid  taste  of  the  skins. 

Boiled   Pickled    Pork   and   Cabbage. 

Pare,  divide,  and  cut  into  quarters  a  medium-sized  cabbage,  wash  well  and  par- 
boil for  about  ten  minutes,  and  then  place  them  in  a  vessel  with  a  pound  of  well- 


222  PORK. 

washed  salt  pork,  three  sausages,  a  branch  of  celery,  an  onion,  two  large  carrots,  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  bay  leaf  and  a  sprig  of  thyme,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  but  no  salt, 
and  cover  over  with  buttered  paper  ;  simmer  over  a  gentle  fire  for  an  hour  and  a 
half,  and  then  remove  the  cabbage  with  a  skimmer  and  place  it  on  a  dish,  together 
with  the  pork  and  the  sausages,  laying  them  on  top ;  garnish  the  dish  with  the 
balance  of  the  vegetables,  and  serve. 

Pork   Pie. 

Take  one  pound  of  flour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard,  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter, 
rub  about  two-thirds  of  the"  lard  into  the  flour,  and  melt  the  rest  with  the  butter  in  a 
small  quantity  of  hot  milk  and  water ;  skim  it  well  and  mix  it  in  slowly  with  the 
flour,  adding  a  little  salt  and  some  more  of  the  milk,  if  found  necessary  to  make  the 
paste  of  the  desired  consistency ;  knead  it  thoroughly  and  raise  the  crust  to  an  oval 
shape ;  cut  some  rather  lean  pork  into  slices,  season  it  with  chopped  sage,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  a  very  little  each  of  cayenne  and  mace ;  put  the  pork  into  the  crust  and 
cover  it ;  trim  the  edges  of  the  paste,  moisten  and  press  them  together.  Then  roll 
out  the  trimmings  of  the  paste,  cut  them  into  leaves,  moisten  at  the  bottom,  and 
ornament  the  top  of  the  pie  with  them,  leaving  a  small  hole  in  the  top  of  the  crust. 
Place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  two  hours  or  more,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  pie ;  then  with  the  trimmings  of  the  pork  prepare  some  well  seasoned  gravy,  and 
when  the  pie  is  done  filter  it  through  the  hole  at  the  top  of  the  crust,  serving  either 
hot  or  cold,  as  may  be  desired. 

Stewed  Stuffed   Ribs  of  Pork. 

Select  a  young  loin  of  pork  and  joint  the  bone;  peel,  core,  and  cut  into  quarters 
enough  cooking  apples,  and  stuff  the  pork  with  them,  trussing  it  so  as  to  keep  them 
in  securely;  lay  the  meat  on  a  baking  dish,  baste  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  warmed 
butter,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  until  lightly  browned  all  over.  Then  lay  the  meat 
in  a  stewpan,  pouring  in  a  breakfast  cupful  of  clear,  boiling  broth  over  it,  put  on  the 
lid,  and  keep  it  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  stewing  slowly  for  a  little  more  than  two  hours, 
basting  the  meat  frequently,  and  adding  a  little  water  from  time  to  time,  as  it  becomes 
reduced  by  the  boiling.  When  the  meat  is  done  place  it  in  a  hot  dish,  skim  off  the 
fat  from  the  cooking  liquor,  and  strain  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  over  the  pork. 

Roasted  Saddle  of  Pork. 

Select  a  good  saddle  of  pork,  remove  the  fat  and  skin,  and  cover  it  with  a  well 
buttered  sheet  of  paper,  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven  until  done,  allowing  about  twenty 
minutes  to  each  pound  of  meat.  Baste  constantly,  and  when  cooked  put  it  on  a  dish 
and  serve  with  a  little  brown  gravy  poured  over,  and  a  little  Robert  sauce  or 
tomato  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 


PORK.  223 

Baked   Sausages. 

Place  twelve  sausages  on  a  baking  dish,  prick  them  a  little,  and  separate  them 
by  twelve  slices  of  bread  cut  the  same  length  as  the  sausages.  Bake  in  the  oven  for 
twelve  minutes,  basting  them  occasionally  with  their  own  liquor,  and  serve  on  a 
metal  dish  with  one-half  pint  of  hot  Madeira  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Bologna  Sausages. 

Chop  fine  one  pound  each  of  beef,  veal,  pork  and  rather  fat  bacon;  mix  well  with 
the  above  ingredients  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  also  chopped  fine,  and 
season  with  sage,  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  pepper.  Press  the  mixture  into  a  large  skin, 
tie  it  tightly  at  both  ends  and  prick  it  in  several  places.  Put  the  sausage  into  a  sauce- 
pan, cover  it  with  boiling  water  and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  an  hour.  When  cooked 
place  the  sausage  on  straw  to  drain. 

Country   Sausage. 

Prepare  a  sausage  forcemeat  and  divide  it  into  small  portions,  flour  the  hands 
and  roll  it  into  balls.  Put  some  butter  in  a  fryingpan  and  when  it  is  hot  fry  the  balls, 
a  few  at  a  time,  adding  more  butter  when  required.  Turn  them  constantly  and  when 
equally  browned  drain  them,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Deviled   Sausages. 

Steam  some  pork  sausages  for  an  hour,  then  leave  them  until  cold.  Cut  some 
pieces  of  bread  about  two  inches  in  length  and  one  and  one-half  inches  wide  and  fry 
them  in  butter  to  a  pale  golden  color.  Drain  them  and  mask  them  with  a  thin  coat- 
ing of  curry  paste.  Skin  the  sausages  and  cut  them  lengthwise  into  thin  slices,  then 
cut  each  slice  into  halves,  place  half  a  slice  of  sausage  on  each  piece  of  bread  and 
spread  a  little  mango  chutney  over  them.  Put  them  in  the  oven  with  a  cover  over 
and  leave  until  hot.  Spread  an  ornamental  dish-paper  over  a  hot  dish,  place  the  sau- 
sages on  it,  garnish  them  with  slices  of  lemon  and  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Frankfort  Sausages. 

Any  part  of  the  pork  may  be  used  for  these  sausages,  having  the  same  quantity 
of  fat  that  there  is  lean;  mince  the  meat  finely  and  season  it  with  ground  coriander- 
seeds,  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg;  the  quantity  of  seasoning 
may  be  judged  according  to  that  of  the  meat.  Fill  the  skins  (they  should  have  been 
well  cleansed  and  steeped  in  cold  water,  salted,  for  a  few  hours),  secure  them  well  at 
the  ends,  and  hang  them  in  a  cool  dry  place  until  wanted. 


224  PORK. 


Fried  Sausage  Meat. 


Turn  some  sausage  meat  out  of  the  skins  and  divide  and  roll  it  into  small  balls; 
wrap  each  ball  in  a  thin  rasher  of  bacon  and  pass  a  skewer  through  to  keep  it  on. 
Put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter  and  fry  lightly.  When  cooked  lay  them 
on  a  hot  dish  that  has  been  spread  with  a  folded  napkin,  or  a  fancy  dish-paper,  and 
garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  small  croutons  of  fried  bread.  Serve  immediately. 

Ham   Sausages. 

Mince  about  five  pounds  of  unsmoked  ham  fine,  if  in  cold  weather,  one  pound 
of  hog's  leaf,  or  inner  pork  fat,  and  cut  it  into  small  squares.  Season  the  mince  with 
three  ounces  of  salt,  one-half  ounce  of  coarsely  ground  black  pepper,  a  few  whole 
peppercorns,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  saltpetre.  Mix  the  seasoning  well  into  the 
mince  and  moisten  it  slowly  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  rum  or  port  wine, 
then  mix  in  the  fat.  Cover  the  mixture  and  leave  it  for  a  few  hours.  Cleanse  well 
and  prepare  some  skins,  tie  them  round  the  bottom,  then  pass  the  mixture  through 
them  into  a  funnel.  When  the  skins  are  well  filled  tie  them  into  lengths  about  one 
and  one-half  feet  in  length.  In  about  twelve  hours  time  tie  the  sausages  closer  if 
possible,  and  bind  them  round  from  one  end  to  the  other  with  broad  tape;  fasten  the 
tape  well  at  the  ends.  Hang  the  sausages  for  nearly  two  weeks  in  cool  smoke,  then 
remove  them  from  the  smoke  and  place  them  in  a  cool,  dry  place  until  wanted. 
When  the  sausages  are  filled  care  should  be  taken  that  no  air  spaces  are  left;  should 
there  be  any  they  should  be  pricked  through  with  a  long,  thin  iron  skewer. 


Pork  Sausages. 


After  emptying  and  cleaning  thoroughly  the  intestines  of  an  ox,  cut  the  skins 
into  the  necessary  lengths  and  place  them  in  a  basin  of  salted  water  or  a  weak  solu- 
tion of  lime  water  and  allow  them  to  remain  there  for  three  or  four  days,  turning 
them  frequently  inside  and  out.  Then  remove  them  from  the  solution  and  clean 
them  thoroughly  by  scraping  inside  and  out  and  place  them  in  a  basin  of  slightly 
salted  water,  letting  them  remain  in  it  until  they  are  wanted  for  use,  when  they  are  to 
be  well  drained.  Meanwhile,  place  ten  pounds  of  pork  with  a  fair  quantity  of  fat  in 
a  bowl  of  pickle  and  let  it  remain  there  for  one  week,  and  then  remove,  drain  and 
mince  it  very  fine,  sprinkling  over  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  pepper 
and  a  little  allspice,  say  about  one  teaspoonful.  Place  the  sausage  meat  in  the  skins, 
filling  them  as  full  as  possible  and  securely  tying  both  ends,  wrap  muslin  around  them 
and  smoke  them  for  twelve  to  fourteen  days,  then  take  out  and  rub  well  with  pepper 
hanging  them  in  a  cold  place  until  they  are  wanted,  when  they  should  be  boiled,  and 
when  cold,  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  served. 


PORK.  225 

Pork  Sausages  Boiled  in  White  Wine. 

Place  in  a  stewpan  half  a  dozen  sausages,  together  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine, 
sprinkling  over  a  small  quantity  of  pepper,  set  the  pan  over  the  fire,  covering  it  over 
with  the  lid  and  boil  the  contents  gently  for  about  eight  minutes,  then  remove  the 
sausages  and  place  them  on  a  dish,  add  a  teacupful  of  poulette  sauce  to  the  liquor  and 
reduce  it  for  four  minutes,  then  take  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  an  ounce 
of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley.  After  the  butter  has 
melted,  pour  the  liquor  over  the  sausages  and  serve. 

Smoked  Sausages. 

Mix  with  ten  pounds  of  fine-chopped  beef,  one  teacupful  of  salt  and  one  pinch 
of  saltpetre,  add  four  pounds  of  chopped  pork  and  two  pounds  of  chopped  fat  bacon; 
season  the  meat  with  eight  ounces  of  cumin,  four  ounces  of  pepper,  two  ounces  of 
pimento,  all  of  which  must  be  ground.  Peel  and  chop  a  few  cloves  of  garlic,  mix 
them  with  the  above  ingredients  and  chop  all  together  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  ad- 
ding by  degrees  at  the  same  time  one  pint  of  water.  Fill  some  pig's  intestines  with 
the  mixture,  tie  them  into  small  sausages  and  smoke  them  for  a  few  hours.  Boil  the 
sausages  for  five  minutes  then  drain  them  cool. 

Stewed  Sausages  with   Cabbage. 

Procure  a  medium-sized  white  cabbage,  remove  all  the  green  leaves,  and  cut  it 
into  quarters,  removing  the  center  stalks.  Wash  thoroughly  in  cold  water,  drain  well, 
cut  them  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  boiling  salted  water  for  five  minutes.  Re- 
move it  to  cold  water  to  cool  moderately,  take  out  the  pieces  of  cabbage,  drain  in  a 
colander  and  put  into  a  saucepan  with  one  gill  of  fat  from  soup  stock  or  one  ounce  of 
butter.  Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  a  whole  me- 
dium-sized onion  and  a  carrot  cut  into  quarters.  Put  on  the  cover  of  the  saucepan, 
set  it  on  a  moderate  fire  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  Take  twelve  sausages,  prick  them 
with  a  fork,  add  them  to  the  cabbage  and  allow  all  to  cook  together  for  twelve  min- 
utes. Dress  the  cabbage  on  a  hot  dish  and  arrange  the  sausages  and  carrot  on  top. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Westphalian   Sausages. 

Use  uncooked  pork,  the  fat  and  lean  of  which  should  be  as  nearly  as  possible  in 
equal  quantities;  cut  it  up  into  small  squares,  and  for  every  pound  of  meat  season  with 
one-half  ounce  of  salt  and  a  small  quantity  of  freshly-ground  black  pepper.  Thor- 
oughly clean  a  number  of  pig's  skins  and  soak  them  in  cold-salted  water  for  one  or 
two  hours.  Fill  the  skins  with  the  sausage  mixture  and  hang  them  up  to  smoke. 
When  sufficiently  smoked  they  may  be  prepared  for  serving  when  liked.  If  the  sau- 


226  PORK. 

sages  are  to  be  eaten  fresh  they  will  be  improved  by  hanging  another  week  in  a  cool 
and  very  dry  place. 

Roasted   Shoulder  of  Pork. 

Remove  the  bone  from  a  shoulder  of  pork  and  spread  it  over  inside  with  a  stuf- 
fing of  sage  and  onions,  filling  the  cavity  where  the  bone  was  taken  out;  roll  up  and 
secure  it  with  a  string,  place  it  in  a  pan  and  roast  in  a  good  hot  oven  until  done.  Put 
it  on  a  dish,  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  pan,  adding  a  little  water  to  it  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  boil  the  gravy  up  once  and  pass  it  through  a  strainer  over 
the  meat,  and  serve. 

Suckling  Pig. 

The  suckling  pig  should  not  be  more  than  a  month  or  six  weeks  old,  and  if  pos- 
sible it  should  be  dressed  the  day  after  it  is  killed.  The  first  step  is  to  scald  it,  and 
this  should  be  done  as  follows  :  Put  a  large  pan  of  water  over  the  fire  to  boil.  Soak 
the  pig  in  cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  plunge  it  into  the  boiling  water,  hold  it 
by  the  head  and  shake  it  about  until  the  hair  begins  to  loosen.  Then  take  it  out  of 
the  water  and  rub  it  vigorously  with  a  coarse  towel  until  all  the  hairs  are  removed. 
Cut  the  pig  open,  remove  the  entrails,  and  wash  it  thoroughly  in  plenty  of  cold  water. 
Dry  the  pig  on  a  towel,  cut  the  feet  off  at  the  first  joint,  leaving  sufficient  skin  to  turn 
over,  and  keep  it  wrapped  in  a  wet  cloth  until  ready  for  use. 

Baked   Suckling  Pig. 

Choose  a  small,  plump  pig.  Use  the  liver,  heart  and  lights  for  the  dressing,  after 
first  putting  them  over  the  fire  in  salted  boiling  water,  and  boiling  them  until  tender, 
or  mincing  after  browning  them  in  butter.  Peel  and  grate  an  onion,  put  it  over  the 
fire  in  a  fryingpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  fry  it  slowly  ;  mince  the 
heart,  liver  and  kidneys,  add  them  to  the  onion ;  soak  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  bread 
in  cold  water  until  soft,  then  squeeze  it  in  a  towel  to  extract  the  water,  and  put  it  with 
the  minced  mixture  and  onions ;  season  the  mixture  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  ground 
sage,  and  marjoram,  and  stir  it  till  it  is  scalding  hot.  Use  this  stuffing  for  the  pig, 
sewing  it  up ;  truss  it  so  as  to  keep  the  legs  in  place,  put  it  into  a  dripping  pan  just 
large  enough  to  hold  it,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  For  the  first  hour  baste  it 
with  butter  and  water,  after  that  with  butter  alone.  If  the  ears  and  tail  seem  in 
danger  of  browning,  wrap  them  in  buttered  paper,  season  it  two  or  three  times  with 
salt  and  pepper  while  it  is  being  basted,  A  medium-sized  pig  will  take  from  two  to 
two  and  one-half  hours  to  bake.  When  the  pig  is  done  put  it  on  a  dish  to  keep  hot 
after  removing  the  stitches  which  retain  the  stuffing,  and  garnish  with  brussel  sprouts 
and  potato  croquettes.  Place  the  dripping-pan  over  the  fire,  stir  in  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  and  brown  it  ;  then  add  equal  quantities  of  boiling  water  or  wine,  or 
three  parts  of  water  and  one  of  mushroom  or  walnut  catsup.  Let  the  gravy  thus 
made  boil  once,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  serve  it  with  the  baked 


PORK.  227 

pig.  The  stuffing  may  be  varied  by  using  mashed  potatoes  instead  of  the  soaked 
bread.  Apple  sauce  is  the  usual  accompaniment.  Cold-slaw  and  cranberry  jelly  or 
stewed  cranberries  are  used  in  America  with  roasted  or  baked  suckling  pig.  Prepare 
the  apple  sauce  as  follows  :  Peel,  quarter,  and  core  some  tart  apples,  stew  them  to  a 
pulp  over  a  slow  fire,  adding  at  first  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water  to  one  pint  of  apples 
to  prevent  their  burning  ;  when  the  apples  are  stewed  to  a  pulp,  stir  with  them  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  to  each  pint  of  the  sauce,  and  then  use  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

Timbale  of  Suckling  Pig. 

Cut  up  half  a  small  suckling  pig  into  small  pieces,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  little  mirepoix  and  white  wine,  and  boil  them.  Take  out  the  pieces  of  meat 
and  let  them  cool,  removing  the  bones,  if  any.  Add  a  little  calfs-foot  jelly  to  the 
liquor  and  clarify  it.  Pack  a  large-sized  timbale  mould  in  ice,  place  poached  eggs 
intermixed  with  sliced  gherkins  and  slices  of  beet-root  in  the  bottom  and  round  the 
sides,  dipping  each  into  half-set  jelly  to  keep  them  fixed  in  their  places.  Pour  a  thick 
layer  of  jelly  at  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  and  when  it  is  set  and  firm,  arrange  the 
pieces  of  pig's  meat,  alternating  with  minced  gherkins  and  whole  capers,  taking  care 
to  leave  a  hollow  space  in  the  center.  Fill  this  cavity  with  almost  cold  but  stiff 
liquid  jelly  and  let  it  set  firm.  Turn  the  timbale  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a 
little  horseradish  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Boiled   Pig's   Tails. 

Trim  and  well  wash  four  or  five  pig's  tails,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  salted  water 
and  boil  until  done.  Take  them  out,  drain,  wipe  them  on  a  cloth,  and  arrange  on  a 
dish  over  a  puree  of  peas.  Put  a  few  chopped  mushrooms  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little 
butter,  and  fry  till  quite  brown;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  stock,  reduce  it, 
and  add  the  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs  to  thicken.  Pour  it  when  ready  over  the  tails, 
and  serve. 


Veal. 

Attereaux  of  Veal  and   Ham. 

Cut  into  slices  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  a  quantity  of  cold  cooked 
veal  and  lean  ham.  Divide  these  into  flat  squares  about  one  inch  wide  each  way. 
String  them  on  small  steel  or  silver  skewers,  arranging  the  ham  and  veal  alternately, 
commencing  with  a  veal  square  and  ending  with  the  same.  Dip  the  attereaux  into 
egg,  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  for  a  few  minutes.  Take  them  out, 
arrange  on  a  dish  on  a  folded  napkin.  Garnish  them  with  sprigs  of  fried  parsley  and 
serve  as  hot  as  possible.  They  are  held  in  the  hand  by  means  of  a  table  napkin,  and 
the  pieces  are  taken  off  the  skewer  with  a  fork  to.be  eaten. 

Blanquette  of  Veal  and  Ham. 

Cut  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  cooked  veal  into  pieces,  and  mix  it  with  one-half 
pound  of  cooked  ham,  also  cut  into  pieces.  Put  the  meat  into  a  saucepan  with  one 
pint  of  cream  sauce,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  small  quantity  each  of  pepper 
and  salt,  and  boil  it.  When  boiling,  move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  add 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  with  one  teacupful  of  milk,  and  stir  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn  the  blanquette  out  onto  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve. 

Blanquette  of  Veal  with  Mushrooms  in   Croustade. 

Cut  some  cold  roasted  fillet  of  veal  into  collops  one  and  one-half  inch  in  diameter, 
and  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  slice  one-fourth  of  the  quantity  of  mushrooms,  and 
mix  them  with  the  veal  in  some  allemande  sauce.  Prepare  a  paste  croustade  two 
inches  high,  and  the  same  size  as  the  dish  on  which  it  is  to  be  served,  make  the 
blanquette  hot,  turn  it  into  the  croustade,  and  serve. 

Blanquette  of  Veal  with   Noodles. 

The  same  as  for  Blanquette  of  Veal,  arranging  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  cooked 
noodles  round  the  serving  dish  as  a  border. 

Blanquette   of  Veal   with    Peas. 

Prepared  the  same  as  for  Blanquette  of  Veal,  adding  one  pint  of  cooked  green 
or  canned  blanched  peas  two  minutes  before  serving. 

228 


VEAL.  229 

Boudins   of  Veal. 

Chop  fine  the  remains  of  some  cold  veal  and  stir  in  with  it  some  finely  chopped 
bacon  and  parsley;  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  the  smallest  quantity  of 
mace.  Place  the  mince  in  a  stewpan,  moisten  it  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  clear 
gravy  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  very  hot;  then  move  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and 
stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Thickly  butter  the  interior  of  some  small  tin 
boudin  moulds,  fill  them  three-fourths  full  of  the  above  mixture  and  tie  a  sheet  of 
buttered  paper  over  each.  Stand  the  tins  in  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  about 
half  their  height  and  boil  the  contents  for  about  twenty  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  turn  the  boudins  out  of  their  tins  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  white  sauce  over 
them,  and  serve. 

Croquettes  of  Calf's  Brains. 

Boil  one-half  pound  of  brains  gently  for  about  twenty  minutes,  and  then  put 
them  in  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes;  peel  off  the  outside,  chop  up  the  brains 
and  add  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  breadcrumbs;  mash  all  together,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-minced  parsley,  one  ounce  of  butter,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a 
little  lemon  juice,  grated  nutmeg,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Mix  all  well 
together,  and  after  flouring  the  hands  make  it  up  into  shapes  resembling  sausages. 
Coat  these  with  flour  and  fry  in  a  wire  basket,  in  lard  or  butter,  until  they  are 
of  a  slight  yellow  color.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

Calf's  Brains  in  Matelote. 

Peel  twenty  small  onions  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter, 
and  fry  to  a  light  brown  color;  add  half  an  ounce  of  flour,  stirring  well  for  a  few 
minutes;  then  add  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  good  broth,  one  teacupful  of  red 
wine,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  Place  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  and 
let  the  liquor  simmer  for  thirty  minutes.  Open  a  can  of  mushrooms,  pick  them  over, 
wash,  and  cut  into  fairly  small  pieces;  put  them  into  the  sauce  and  boil  for  eight 
minutes  longer.  Drain  the  boiled  brains,  place  on  a  warm  dish,  surrounded  with  the 
onions  and  mushrooms,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over  all. 

Calf's  Brains  in  Scallop  Shells. 

After  boiling  two  brains,  cut  them  into  dice,  season  well,  and  put  them  into  a 
basin.  Gradually  reduce  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  glaze.  When  it  is  cooked  to  a  nice  cream, 
add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  sweet  herbs,  cook  the  mixture  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  then  add  the  brains,  and  take  the  pan  off  the  fire.  Have  ready  eight  or  nine 
well-cleaned  scallop  shells,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  sprinkle  over  some  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  and  glaze.  Serve  hot. 


230 


VEAL. 


Calf's  Brains,  Poulette  Style. 

Put  a  large  piece  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  after  melting  it  gradually  add  one 
teacupful  of  flour,  mix  well  together  and  add  one  teacupful  of  clear  broth,  taking  care 
to  stir  well  all  the  time,  then  add  about  half  a  gill  of  white  or  Madeira  wine  and  water 
in  equal  parts.  Next  add  a  few  small  onions  and  mushrooms  and  boil  until  they 
are  done,  adding  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  salt  and  pepper  according  to  the  taste; 
when  these  are  soft  put  in  the  brains  and  boil  again  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes; 
take  out  the  brains  and  put  them  on  a  dish,  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  to  the  sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  brains.  The  dish  must  be  served  very  hot. 

Calf's  Brains  with  Black  or  Brown   Butter. 

After  cleaning,  blanching  and  preparing  take  three  calf's  brains,  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  and  cover  over  with  water,  add  two  or  three  pinches  of  salt,  one-half  break- 
fast cupful  of  vinegar,  one  medium-sized  sliced  carrot,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  one  bay 
leaf  and  a  dozen  whole  peppers;  boil  for  five  minutes,  drain  thoroughly  and  cut 
each  brain  into  halves.  Arrange  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  one  gill  of  very  hot  black 
or  brown  butter. 

Braised  Breast  of  Veal,  Milanese  Style. 

Bone  a  breast  of  veal  weighing  about  two  and  one-half  pounds,  and  season  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Stuff  it  in  the  usual  way 
with  forcemeat,  roll  and  tie  it,  making  a  few  incisions  in  the  skin.  Put  it  into  a 
braising-pan  with  a  sliced  carrot  and  onion,  and  braise  it  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  bast- 
ing it  now  and  then  with  its  own  gravy.  Serve  with  one  pint  of  hot  Milanese  garn- 
ishing on  a  dish,  placing  the  meat  on  top,  and  straining  the  gravy  over  it. 

Breast  of  Veal,  Poulette. 

Cut  a  breast  of  veal  into  small  equal-sized  pieces,  blanch,  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  small  quantity  of  the  water  in  which  they  were  parboiled  and  warm  them  over 
the  fire.  Sift  in  a  small  quantity  of  flour,  stir  it  until  smooth,  then  put  in  a  lump  of 
butter,  some  mushrooms,  carrots,  bay  leaves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste.  Place  the  lid  o.n  the  saucepan  and  cook  the  contents  gradually  until 
nearly  done,  then  put  in  some  young  white  onions  and  fish  cooking.  When  done 
place  the  pieces  of  veal  on  a  hot  dish  and  keep  it  near  the  fire  while  the  sauce  is  be- 
ing prepared.  Strain  the  cooking  liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into  another  sauce- 
pan, squeeze  in  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  and  then  pour  in  the  beaten  yolks  of 
four  eggs;  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thick,  not  allowing  it  to  boil,  then  pour  it  over  the 
veal,  and  serve. 


VEAL.  231 

Roasted  Breast  of  Veal. 

Remove  the  tendons  from  a  breast  of  veal,  fasten  the  sweetbread  to  the  joint  with 
skewers,  wrap  it  up  in  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  place  in  a  pan  and  roast  it  in  a  hot 
oven.  When  the  veal  is  cooked,  which  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  or  pos- 
sibly more,  according  to  the  size  of  the  joint,  remove  the  paper,  place  the  veal  on  a 
hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  slices  of  lemon,  pour  over  it  a  little  rich  gravy,  and  serve  with 
a  sauceboatful  of  melted  butter. 

Brisotin  of  Veal. 

Cut  up  six  pieces  of  lean  veal  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  six 
inches  in  length.  Flatten  them  with  a  cutlet  bat  and  season  with  a  small  quantity 
each  of  salt  and  pepper.  Lard  the  centers,  using  a  small  larding-needle,  with  strips 
of  fat  pork  or  bacon.  Cover  with  any  kind  of  forcemeat,  roll  them  up  and  tie  with 
a  string.  Put  them  into  a  deep  sautepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  fat,  one  sliced  car- 
rot and  one  medium-sized  onion.  Cover  the  whole  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper, 
set  it  on  fire,  allow  it  to  take  on  a  good  golden  color  for  about  five  minutes.  Moisten 
with  one-half  pint  of  white  broth,  remove  the  sautepan  to  the  oven  and  cook  slowly 
for  twenty  minutes,  basting  occasionally.  Turn  the  whole  carefully  out  onto  a  dish, 
and  serve  it  at  once. 

Brisotin  of  Veal,  Nantaise. 

The  same  as  for  Brisotin  of  Veal,  placing  half  a  dozen  stuffed  lettuce  heads 
around  the  dish  for  a  garnish  and  pouring  over  one  gill  of  hot  Madeira  sauce. 

Broiled   Veal,  Venetian. 

Procure  some  rather  thick  and  large  slices  of  veal  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  with 
some  chopped  mushrooms  and  shallots,  some  thyme,  bayleaf  and  chopped  parsley. 
Dredge  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper  and  baste  them  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of 
olive  oil.  Allow  the  slices  to  steep  in  this  marinade  for  an  hour  or  so,  turning  them 
now  and  then  so  that  they  will  be  equally  flavored.  Strew  them  over  with  finely 
grated  breadcrumbs,  place  them  side  by  side  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 
When  done  on  one  side,  turn  and  baste  them  with  the  remainder  of  the  marinade. 
When  cooked,  arrange  the  slices  of  veal  on  a  hot  dish,  squeeze  the  juice  of  an  orange 
over,  and  serve. 

Cannelon  of  Veal. 

Mince  fine  two  pounds  or  so  of  cold  roasted  veal  and  one  pound  of  ham;  mix 
well  among  it  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mace,  one  bare  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  lemon  peel  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Then  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one-fourth  pint  of  good  gravy  and 
four  ounces  of  sifted  breadcrumbs;  shape  this  into  a  rather  short  thick  roll  with  the 


232  VEAL. 

floured  hands.  Flour  the  inside  and  put  it  in  a  well-greased  bakingpan;  place  a  cover 
on  it  and  place  it  in  the  oven  until  it  is  smoking  hot;  then  remove  the  cover  from  the 
tin  and  let  the  cannelon  brown;  draw  it  to  the  door  of  the  oven  and  brush  it  over 
with  the  beaten  white  of  egg;  push  it  in  again  and  shut  the  door  for  a  minute  to  let  it 
glaze.  Place  the  cannelon  carefully  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried 
potato  croquettes  and  quarters  of  lemon,  pour  over  a  rich  brown  gravy,  and  serve. 


Broiled   Veal    Chops. 


Cut  off  a  number  of  chops,  trim  off  the  fat,  and  beat  them  till  quite  tender. 
Put  them  into  a  pan,  pour  over  enough  boiling  water  to  cover,  place  the  lid  on,  and 
stand  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  where  the  chops  can  be  allowed  to  simmer 
gently  until  done.  When  about  three-fourths  cooked,  sprinkle  over  a  small  quantity 
each  of  pepper  and  salt.  When  done,  remove  them  from  the  pan,  dry  them  in  a 
cloth,  spread  a  little  butter  over  them,  brush  them  over  with  egg,  and  then  sprinkle 
over  some  bread  or  cracker  crumbs.  Place  them  on  a  baking-sheet  in  the  oven,  and 
when  they  are  nicely  browned  arrange  them  on  a  dish  round  a  pile  of  mashed  potatoes, 
and  serve. 

Fried   Veal   Chops. 

Remove  all  the  bones  and  sinews  from  the  chops,  mince  the  meat  very  fine 
and  mix  with  it  two-thirds  of  its  quantity  of  finely-chopped  streaky  bacon  ;  season 
the  mixture  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  spices.  Cut  some  pieces  of  caul  in 
the  shape  of  chops,  spread  the  minced  mixture  over  them,  and  bury  a  bone  in  every 
one  so  that  the  end  only  will  be  seen.  Strew  some  grated  breadcrumbs  and  a  few 
sweet  herbs  over  the  chops.  Melt  a  large  lump  of  butter  in  a  flat  stewpan,  put  in  the 
chops  and  fry  them.  When  cooked  and  nicely  browned,  drain  and  place  them  on  a 
hot  dish  ;  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 

Chump  of  Veal,   Bourgeoise  Style. 

Lard  a  chump  of  veal  with  strips  of  bacon.  Butter  the  interior  of  a  stewpan, 
put  in  some  slices  of  bacon  and  trimmings  of  veal,  place  the  chump  over  them  and 
add  three  or  four  leeks,  onions,  carrots,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  one-half  pint  of 
stock.  Place  the  cover  on  the  stewpan  with  some  live  embers  on  it,  and  braise  the 
contents  over  a  slow  fire.  When  cooked  drain  the  veal  and  glaze  it.  Strain  the 
sauce  through  a  fine  sieve  into  another  saucepan,  boil  it  quickly  until  reduced  to  a 
glaze,  then  pour  in  one-half  teacupful  of  Spanish  sauce  ;  boil,  pour  it  over  the  veal, 
and  serve.  White  wine  and  gravy  colored  with  a  small  quantity  of  browning  may  be 
used  in  place  of  the  Spanish  sauce  if  desired.  A  lump  of  butter  should  be  dissolved 
in  the  sauce  before  it  is  poured  over  the  veal. 


VEAL.  233 

Roasted  Chump  of  Veal. 

Place  a  chump  of  veal  in  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle  some  mixed  herbs,  pepper  and 
salt  over,  cover  it  with  white  wine  and  allow  it  to  soak  for  two  days.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  lard  the  veal  with  some  strips  of  bacon  and  roast  it  in  a  brisk  oven.  Mean- 
while prepare  some  ravigote  sauce.  When  cooked  place  the  chump  of  veal  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Veal   Collops. 

Pare  and  cut  two  pounds  of  veal  (taken,  if  possible,  from  the  hip),  into  half  a 
dozen  thick  slices,  season  them  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper, 
place  them  in  a  sautepan  on  a  very  hot  fire  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  brown  them 
for  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  any  desired 
sauce  or  garnish. 

Veal   Collops,  Provincial. 

These  are  prepared  as  for  veal  collops,  replacing  the  butter  with  the  same 
quantity  of  oil.  Season  well  and  when  browned  on  both  sides  add  a  finely-chopped 
onion  or  a  shallot.  Let  color  lightly  and  moisten  with  one  gill  of  broth.  Add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  Spanish  sauce,  three  chopped  cepes  or  mushrooms,  two 
crushed  cloves  of  garlic  and  one  teaspoonful  of  parsley.  Boil  once,  and  serve  with 
six  croutons  of  fried  bread  for  a  garnish. 

Veal   Collops  with  Stuffed  Peppers. 

Proceed  in  the  same  way  as  for  veal  collops,  adding  the  juice  of  half  a  medium- 
sized  lemon  and  one  gill  of  hot  Madeira  sauce.  Cook  for  three  minutes  longer,  and 
decorate  the  dish  with  half  a  dozen  stuffed  green  peppers  three  minutes  prior  to  serv- 
ing it. 

Cream  of  Veal. 

Cut  the  most  tender  part  of  a  fillet  of  veal  into  small  pieces,  place  them  in  a 
mortar  with  an  equal  quantity  of  bread  that  has  been  soaked  in  boiling  milk,  and 
pound  together.  Stir  into  the  above  mixture  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  the  whites  of  two, 
and  enough  cream  to  bring  it  to  a  stiff  batter;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Butter  a  plain  mould,  ornament  the  insides  with  slices  of  truffles,  and  pour  in  the 
above  mixture.  Stand  the  mould  in  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water  to  three-fourths 
its  height,  and  allow  it  to  steam  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  turn  the  cream 
out  of  the  mould  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  perigueux  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Veal   Croquettes. 

Take  some  cold  veal,  cut  off  the  fat  and  skin,  and  chop  the  veal  up  very  fine, 
seasoning  with  onion  juice,  celery  salt,  cayenne,  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper 


234  VEAL. 

Oysters  parboiled  and  drained  may  be  used,  taking  half  the  bulk  of  them  to  the 
quantity  of  meat.  Mix  together  well  and  moisten  with  well-beaten  egg  and  white 
sauce.  Make  the  paste  into  the  shape  of  balls,  and  dip  them  first  into  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs,  then  in  egg,  and  then  in  crumbs  again;  plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan 
of  boiling  fat,  and  fry  until  done  and  of  a  light  brown  color. 


Curried  Veal,  Indian  Style. 


Cut  into  pieces  two  pounds  of  any  kind  of  lean  raw  veal,  place  the  pieces  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  warm  water,  season  with  two  pinches  of  salt  and  one  pinch  of 
pepper  and  add  a  garnished  bouquet  and  half  a  dozen  small  onions;  cook  the  whole 
for  twenty-five  minutes.  Prepare  one  gill  of  white  roux  in  a  saucepan,  moisten  it 
with  the  liquor  from  the  veal,  stir  it  well  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of  moistened  curry 
powder  and  three  raw  yolks  of  eggs,  beating  them  up  as  they  are  put  in.  Place  the 
veal  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  roux  over  it  immediately,  as  it  must  not  cook  again, 
garnish  with  a  border  of  plain  boiled  rice,  and  serve. 

Cushion  of  Veal,  Bordelaise. 

Braise  a  cushion  of  veal,  and  when  tender  drain  it  and  cut  into  moderately  thick 
slices;  place  them  on  a  dish  and  cover  them  over;  wash,  drain  and  slice  twenty  mush- 
rooms; put  a  chopped  onion  into  a  deep  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  for 
a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  put  in  the  mushrooms,  season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fry  them  quickly  until  the  moisture  has  in  part  evaporated.  Sprinkle 
a  little  flour  over  the  mushrooms,  one  teacupful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  pour 
in  one  teacupful  of  gravy;  stir  the  sauce  and  boil  it  quickly  for  ten  minutes;  place  a 
layer  of  the  stew  on  a  dish  and  then  a  layer  of  the  meat,  another  layer  of  the  stew, 
and  so  on  until  all  is  used,  finishing  with  a  layer  of  the  stew.  Cover  the  above  mix- 
ture with  breadcrumbs,  place  a  few  bits  of  butter  on  the  top  and  put  it  in  a  quick 
oven  for  twenty  minutes,  basting  occasionally  with  the  butter.  When  cooked  drain  the 
butter  off  the  dish,  pour  a  small  quantity  of  rich  gravy  round  it,  and  serve. 

Cushion   of  Veal,  Duchess. 

Trim  a  large  white  cushion  of  veal  and  stud  it  with  square  fillets  of  raw  truffles, 
dust  over  them  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  cover  the  studded  part  of  the  meat  with  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  and  truss  it.  Place  some  trimmings  of  bacon  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the 
meat,  pour  some  clarified  butter  over  and  braise  for  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven, 
basting  it  occasionally  with  the  drippings  in  the  pan.  Cut  some  cooked  potatoes  into 
an  oblong  shape,  like  large  dominoes,  and  glaze  them.  Garnish  the  dish  on  which 
the  veal  has  been  placed  with  the  potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  brown 
sauce  that  has  been  reduced  with  white  wine  and  essence  of  truffles. 


VEAL.  235 

Veal   Cutlets. 

Trim  some  thinly-cut  veal  cutlets  to  a  nice  shape,  flatten  them  with  a  cutlet 
bat,  and  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mince  together  in  equal  quantities 
some  pieces  of  veal  and  fat  bacon,  mix  them  with  one-third  of  their  bulk  of  finely- 
grated  breadcrumbs,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  finely-minced  shallot,  and  a  moderate 
quantity  of  powdered  sweet  herbs  ;  bind  the  mixture  with  beaten  egg,  and,  when  well 
mixed,  cover  the  cutlets  completely  with  it,  smoothing  it  over  with  the  flat  blade  of 
a  knife.  Roll  the  cutlets  in  beaten  eggs  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  until  well 
browned  in  boiling  lard.  Drain,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  well-flavored  rich 
brown  gravy  over,  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve. 

Baked  Veal  Cutlets  with  Sweet  Herbs. 

Put  some  chopped  mushrooms,  sweet  herbs,  winter  savory  and  shallots,  with 
two  ounces  of  butter  and  some  salt  and  pepper  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  them  over  the 
fire  until  well  mixed  and  hot.  Trim  the  cutlets  nicely,  spread  over  them  some  of  the 
mixture,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  coat  them  well  with  grated  breadcrumbs. 
Place  the  cutlets  on  a  baking-dish  and  bake  them.  Pour  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
white  wine  and  a  small  quantity  of  cullis  into  the  saucepan  with  the  remainder  of  the 
herbs,  and  boil  ;  skim  the  sauce.  When  cooked,  place  the  cutlets  on  a  hot  dish,  pour 
the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Braised   Larded  Veal   Cutlets  with  String  Beans. 

Trim  some  small  veal  cutlets,  keeping  the  bone  very  short,  and  lard  them  all  on 
the  same  side  with  bacon.  Place  the  cutlets  in  a  stewpan  with  some  minced  vege- 
tables, and  clear  stock,  and  braise  them.  When  cooked  glaze  the  cutlets.  Boil  some 
string' beans  in  salted  water  until  tender,  then  drain,  chop  them  finely,  and  mix  a  little 
butter  in  with  them.  Place  a  flat  mound  of  mashed  potatoes  on  a  hot  dish,  pile  the 
beans  in  the  center,  lean  the  cutlet  against  the  beans,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of 
gravy. 

Broiled  Veal   Cutlets. 

Cut  half  a  dozen  veal  cutlets  from  a  fine  piece  of  loin  of  the  white  veal,  pare  and 
flatten  them  slightly,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil.  Turn  the  cutlets  over 
a  number  of  times  to  have  them  well  covered,  place  them  on  a  broiler  over  a  clear 
fire  and  cook  them  for  eight  minutes  on  both  sides.  Remove  them  from  the  fire,  ar- 
range them  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  over  a  small  quantity  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and 
serve  as  soon  as  possible. 


236  VEAL. 

Broiled  Veal  Cutlets  with  Colbert  Sauce. 

Trim  a  few  veal  cutlets,  beat  them  lightly  with  a  cutlet-bat,  dust  over  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  roll  them  in  melted  butter  and  breadcrumbs;  broil  them  on  both 
sides  over  a  clear  fire;  dish  them  in  a  circular  form  round  a  puree  of  string  beans  and 
pour  over  some  colbert  sauce,  which  is  made  by  mixing  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  butter.  Pour  into  a 
stewpan  one  breakfast  cupful  of  melted  meat  glaze  and  let  it  boil;  then  move  it  to  the 
side  of  the  fire  and  add  by  degrees  the  prepared  butter  alternately  with  the  juice  of 
three  lemons;  stir  quickly  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  When  the  sauce  has 
thickened  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  add  a  wineglassful  of  cold  water. 

Broiled  Veal   Cutlets  with   Tomato  Sauce. 

Beat  some  cutlets  with  the  flat  side  of  a  chopper,  trim,  season  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  arrange  them  on  a  gridiron.  Broil  the  cutlets  over  a  clear  fire, 
turning  and  basting  them  with  butter.  When  cooked,  brush  the  cutlets  over  with  a 
paste  brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve 
with  a  sauceboatful  of  tomato  sauce. 

Curried  Veal  Cutlets. 

The  veal  cutlets  should  be  prepared  as  for  collops  by  cutting  them  into  shape, 
dipping  them  into  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  covering  with  grated  breadcrumbs  mixed 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Fry  them 
in  butter  and  serve  with  a  curry  sauce  made  as  follows:  Take  three  equal  parts  of 
curry  powder,  butter  and  flour,  work  them  into  a  paste,  turn  it  into  the  pan  from 
which  the  cutlets  have  been  removed,  moisten  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water, 
add  a  seasoning  of  cayenne  and  salt  and  allow  it  to  thicken  before  using. 

Veal  Cutlets,  Dauphin. 

Trim  half  a  dozen  cutlets  of  veal  on  one  side  only,  lard  them  with  veal  and 
bacon  chopped  fine  and  braise  them.  Reduce  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  stewed, 
then  glaze  the  cutlets  with  it,  and  serve  either  with  stewed  endives  or  sorrel. 

Veal  Cutlets,  Financiere. 

Cut  a  few  cutlets  from  a  neck  of  veal,  shorten  the  rib  bones  and  cut  off  the 
chine  bones.  Beat  the  cutlets  lightly  with  a  cutlet  bat,  stud  them  all  over  the  same 
side  in  a  fancy  pattern  with  square  fillets  of  truffles  and  sprinkle  some  salt  and  pepper 
over.  Put  some  finely-chopped  carrots  and  onions  in  a  stewpan,  then  the  cutlets, 
placing  them  side  by  side,  and  cover  them  with  a  clear  broth.  Boil  the  liquor  until 
it  is  reduced  to  one-third  of  its  original  quantity,  then  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side 


VEAL. 


237 


of  the  fire  and  braise  the  cutlets  slowly  for  about  forty-five  minutes,  basting  them 
frequently.  When  cooked  remove  the  meat  from  the  fire  and  leave  them  in  their 
cooking  stock  until  nearly  cold.  Trim  the  cutlets  neatly,  place  them  in  another 
stewpan  with  the  cooking  stock  and  heat  them  slowly  in  the  oven.  Cover  the  bottom 
of  a  hot  dish  with  financiere  sauce,  place  some  ruffles  around  the  bones  of  the  cutlets, 
lay  them  on  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Veal   Forcemeat   Cutlets. 

Chop  fine  two  pounds  of  lean  veal,  cut  from  the  hip  if  possible,  place  the  meat 
in  a  bowl  with  two  ounces  of  chopped  raw  veal  suet,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  half 
a  pinch  of  pepper  and  one-third  of  a  pinch  of  nutmeg;  add  one-half  breakfast  cupful 
of  good  cream,  one  chopped  shallot  and  two  raw  eggs,  well  mixed  together.  Roll 
the  mass  out  to  a  thickness  of  one-half  inch,  cut  some  cutlets  with  any  kind  of  cutlet- 
cutter,  dust  over  with  breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  a  pan  with  two  ounces  of  clarified  but- 
ter for  four  minutes  on  each  side.  Serve  with  any  kind  of  sauce. 

Fried   Veal   Cutlets  with  Tomatoes. 

Cut  about  two  pounds  of  veal  cutlets  from  the  leg  into  small  slices,  season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt,  roll  them  in  cracker-dust,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  and 
again  in  cracker-dust.  Have  in  readiness  on  the  fire  a  fryingpan  containing  smoking 
fat  one-half  an  inch  in  depth;  put  the  veal  into  the  hot  fat  and  fry  brown  on  both 
sides.  While  the  veal  is  frying  wipe  half  a  dozen  large,  firm  tomatoes  with  a  damp 
cloth,  slice  them  about  one-half  an  inch  thick,  roll  them  in  flour,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  fry  until  brown  in  the  pan  with  the  veal.  Serve  the  veal  on  a  dish,  with 
the  tomatoes  laid  neatly  round  in  a  circle.  The  veal  cutlets  may  be  dipped  in  bread- 
crumbs and  fried,  and  served  with  the  tomatoes. 


Veal  Cutlets  in  Papers. 


Pare  neatly  half  a  dozen  veal  cutlets,  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper. 
Add  half  of  a  chopped  onion  and  brown  slightly;  add  four  finely-chopped  mushrooms 
and  cook  for  eight  minutes;  then  pour  in  a  gill  of  Spanish  sauce  and  cook  for  four 
minutes  longer.  Remove,  drain  the  cutlets  and  stand  them  one  side  to  cool.  Add 
to  the  gravy  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread- 
crumbs. Have  in  readiness  six  pieces  .of  oiled  white  paper  cut  into  the  shape  of 
hearts,  place  a  thin  slice  of  cooked  ham  on  one  side  of  the  paper,  pour  over  the  ham 
a  small  quantity  of  the  stock,  and  on  top  of  it  place  a  cutlet  and  another  layer  of  the 
stock,  and  over  all  a  thin  slice  of  cooked  ham.  Cover  with  the  second  part  of  the 
paper,  and  close  it  by  folding  the  two  edges  firmly  together.  Bake  for  a  little  time — 


238  VEAL. 

at  the  most  not  more  than  five  minutes — in  rather  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  without 
delay. 

Veal  Cutlets  in  Surprise. 

Any  underdone  pieces  of  veal  may  be  used,  trimming  them  to  a  nice  shape. 
Mix  with  some  finely-grated  breadcrumbs  half  their  quantity  of  mixed  bacon,  mod- 
erate quantities  of  chopped  parsley  and  shallot,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg.  Bind  the  mixture  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  egg,  spread  a  layer  of  it 
over  one  side  of  each  cutlet,  and  wrap  each  in  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  then  in  a  sheet 
of  oiled  paper,  folding  it  well  round  the  edges.  Place  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  flat  stew- 
pan  over  the  fire ;  when  blue  smoke  rises  put  in  the  cutlets,  and  fry  them  from  five  to 
ten  minutes.  When  cooked  drain  the  cutlets,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish  over  which 
has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Veal   Cutlets,  Lyonese. 

Trim  the  cutlets  and  dust  them  on  both  sides  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  a 
lump  of  lard  in  a  stewpan  to  melt ;  then  put  in  the  cutlets,  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk 
fire  until  done  on  either  side.  Drain  the  fat  out  of  the  stewpan,  pour  over  the  cutlets 
one-half  teacupful  of  rich  broth,  and  boil  it  quickly  until  reduced  to  a  glaze ;  then 
turn  the  cutlets,  pour  in  the  same  quantity  of  broth  as  before,  and  reduce  that.  When 
finished,  arrange  the  cutlets  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  into  the  stewpan  in 
which  they  were  cooked  one-half  pint  of  brown  sauce  and  one  teaeupful  of 
Madeira  wine,  and  boil  it ;  then  add  one  teacupful  of  chopped  gherkins,  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  small  piece  of  butter.  When  the  butter  has 
dissolved  pour  the  sauce  over  the  veal,  and  serve  it. 

Veal   Cutlets,  Maintenon. 

Prepare  the  cutlets  in  the  usual  way,  and  broil  them ;  but  just  before  they  are 
done  take  them  out  to  drain  and  let  them  cool.  Put  some  bacon  cut  in  the  shape 
of  hearts  on  either  side  of  the  cutlets,  wrap  them  round  with  paper  dipped  in  oil,  and 
broil  them  on  both  sides  over  a  clear  fire. 

Veal   Cutlets,  Marechal. 

Remove  the  skin  and  fat  from  about  two  ounces  of  mutton,  chop  the  lean,  put  it 
in  a  mortar,  pound  it  well,  and  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Mix  with  one- 
half  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  enough  cream  to  bind  it,  not  making 
it  too  liquid,  and  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg. 
Trim  neatly  four  or  five  veal  cutlets,  dip  them  in  well-beaten  egg,  and  then  roll  them 
in  breadcrumbs  that  have  been  well-seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  The  cutlets 
should  be  well-covered  on  both  sides  with  the  crumbs.  Put  some  clarified  fat  into  a 


VEAL. 


239 


deep  fryingpan  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  a  column  of  blue  smoke  arises,  then 
put  in  the  cutlets  and  fry  them  for  nearly  ten  minutes;  turn  them  when  browned  on 
one  side  and  brown  the  other.  When  fried,  drain  the  cutlets,  spread  over  each  a 
layer  of  veal  mixture,  place  them  side  by  side  in  a  shallow  tin  dish,  strew  a  small 
quantity  of  finely  chopped  mushrooms  over  them,  sprinkle  very  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  bake  them  for  ten  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked,  arrange 
the  cutlets  on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  an  ornamental  dish-paper, 
garnish  them  with  neat  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  serve. 

Veal  Cutlets,  Milanese. 

Trim  the  cutlets  neatly  to  about  the  same  size.  Boil  two  ounces  of  macaroni  in 
salted  water;  when  tender,  drain  it  and  stir  in  one  ounce  of  butter,  two  ounces  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  one  teacupful  of  tomato  sauce.  Mix  one  teacupful  of 
finely  grated  breadcrumbs  with  one  teacupful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Roll  the  cutlets  in  warmed  butter,  and  then  in  the  bread- 
crumbs, and  leave  them  for  a  few  minutes;  then  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  again  in 
the  mixture.  Place  a  large  lump  of  dripping  or  lard  in  a  flat  stewpan  and  place  it 
over  the  fire;  when  blue  smoke  rises,  put  in  the  cutlets  and  fry  them  until  nicely  and 
equally  browned.  Move  the  macaroni  away  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the  beaten 
yolk  of  an  egg.  Pile  this  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  cutlets  around  it, 
garnish  it  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 


Veal  Cutlets,  Perigueux. 


Trim  some  veal  cutlets  a  little  more  than  an  inch  in  thickness,  keeping  the  bones 
short,  and  lard  them  through  with  raw  truffles  cut  in  square  fillets.  Line  the  bottom 
of  a  flat  stewpan  with  sliced  vegetables  and  lay  the  cutlets  on  them,  add  veal  broth 
to  half  their  height  and  a  bunch  of  herbs  and  parsley,  and  reduce  the  broth  to  half  its 
original  quantity;  then  cover  the  cutlets  with  buttered  paper,  move  them  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  simmer  slowly,  adding  a  little  more  broth  now  and  then.  When  done, 
drain  the  cutlets  and  place  them  on  a  circle  of  forcemeat  poached  in  the  dish,  having 
in  the  center  a  small  bread  crustade  filled  with  cooked  truffles.  Add  the  trimmings 
of  the  truffles  to  the  liquor  that  the  cutlets  were  cooked  in,  reduce,  skim  off  the  fat, 
thicken  with  a  little  brown  sauce,  strain  it,  pour  some  of  it  over  the  cutlets,  and  serve 
the  balance  in  a  sauceboat. 

Veal   Cutlets,  Provincial  Style. 

Trim  the  cutlets,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  flour  over,  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry.  When  the  meat  has  set  drain  the  fat  from 
the  stewpan  and  pour  in  some  broth  to  half  the  height  of  the  cutlets.  When  the 
liquor  boils  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  keep  it  simmering  until  the 


24o  VEAL. 

cutlets  are  done.  Chop  fine  six  large  white  onions,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
lump  of  butter,  and  fry  them  over  a  moderate  fire  until  nicely  browned.  Dredge  a 
little  flour,  pepper  and  salt  over  the  onions,  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  wine  and  gravy 
mixed  in  equal  quantities,  and  boil  them  for  ten  minutes.  When  cooked,  arrange  the 
cutlets  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  turn  the  minced  onions  and  gravy  in  the  center, 
sprinkle  over  a  little  parsley  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  serve. 

Veal   Cutlets    Sauted. 

Trim  five  or  six  veal  cutlets,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  stock,  and  boil 
them  gently  until  they  are  done;  then  drain,  place  them  on  a  plate,  put  another  plate 
on  top,  with  a  weight  on  that,  and  leave  them  until  cold.  Boil  some  brown  sauce 
with  trimmings  of  truffles  until  well  reduced,  then  dip  in  the  cutlets  and  coat  them 
thickly  all  over;  sprinkle  them  with  flour  on  both  sides,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg, 
cover  thickly  with  finely  grated  breadcrumbs,  and  last  of  all  brush  over  with  clarified 
butter.  Place  the  cutlets  in  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter,  and  saute  them  until 
lightly  browned.  Drain  the  cutlets,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  them  with 
fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  white  sauce. 

Veal   Cutlets,  Spanish   Style. 

Place  two  or  three  thin  slices  of  ham  in  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan,  also  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  half  a  bay  leaf  and  a  little  thyme.  Trim  some  veal  cutlets,  season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt,  lay  them  on  top  of  the  ham  and  butter  and  fry  them  over  a 
moderate  fire.  Drain  the  fat  off  and  pour  on  one-half  teacupful  of  Spanish  sauce  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  broth.  Dish  the  cutlets,  strain  the  sauce,  pour  it  over  them,  and 
serve. 

Veal  Cutlets,  St.  Cloud  Style. 

Lard  six  veal  cutlets  with  two  small  truffles,  one  ounce  of  cooked  beef  tongue, 
and  one  ounce  of  larding  pork,  all  cut  in  the  same  fashion.  Place  them  in  a  saute- 
pan with  a  pinch  of  salt,  one  sliced  onion  and  one  sliced  carrot,  and  allow  them  to 
brown  for  ten  minutes,  taking  care  to  keep  the  lid  on  the  pan.  Moisten  with  one- 
half  pint  of  broth,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  to  finish  cooking  for  at  least  fifteen 
minutes.  Serve  with  a  hot  salpicon  sauce  poured  over  the  dish,  and  the  chops  placed 
on  the  top. 

Calf's   Ears,  Financiere  Style. 

Cut  off  the  ears,  blanch  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  stock  or  water,  and 
boil  until  quite  tender.  In  the  meantime  cut  a  crouton  of  bread  about  two  inches 
square  at  the  base,  and  three  inches  high,  fry  in  lard  and  put  in  the  center  of  a  dish. 
Take  out  the  ears,  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  and  stand  them  on  the  dish,  leaning  them 
against  the  bread  ;  put  a  heap  of  financiere  garnishing  in  the  spaces  between  the  ears, 


VEAL.  241 

with  a  truffle  and  a  cockscomb  added.  Put  four  cockscombs  on  the  top  of  the 
bread,  and  a  large  truffle  on  top  of  them,  and  serve  with  some  financiere  sauce  separate 
in  a  boat. 

Fried   Calf's   Ears  with   Tomato   Sauce. 

Boil  eight  ears,  and  let  them  cool  in  the  liquor,  drain,  wipe  dry,  and  cut  up  into 
quarters.  Place  them  in  a  basin  and  dust  over  with  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper ;  flour  them  separately,  dip  into  well-beaten  egg,  and  then  into  sifted  bread- 
crumbs. Put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  plenty  of  boiling  lard,  putting  in  a  few 
at  a  time,  and  fry  them  for  about  ten  minutes.  Then  take  them  out,  drain,  pile  on  a 
dish,  pour  around  tomato  sauce,  and  serve. 

Calf's  Feet  as   Mock   Terrapin. 

Boil  eight  feet  till  tender;  remove  the  meat  from  the  bone  and  put  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  one-half  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled  and  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter.  Mash  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
dry  mustard  and  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne,  adding  salt  to  the  taste.  Mix  the  egg  in 
with  the  meat  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes  and  add  two  wineglassfuls  of 
white  wine.  Dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Boiled  Calf's   Feet. 

Split  each  of  three  feet  into  halves  and,  after  removing  the  large  bones,  put 
them  to  soak  in  fresh  water  for  one  hour.  Wash  thoroughly,  drain  and  place  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  three  or  four  quarts  of  water.  Stir 
well;  add  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one  onion,  one  carrot  (all  cut  into  shreds),  twelve 
whole  peppers,  a  handful  of  salt  and  a  bunch  of  garnished  parsley,  and  cook  briskly 
for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Drain  thoroughly,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  sauce. 

Fricassee  of  Calf's  Feet. 

Soak  four  calf's  feet  for  three  hours  in  cold  water;  allow  them  to  simmer  in 
equal  proportions  of  milk  and  water  until  they  are  sufficiently  tender  to  remove  the 
soft  part  from  the  bones,  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  spread  fine  breadcrumbs 
over  them,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  in  butter.  Serve 
with  white  sauce. 

Calf's   Feet   Fritters. 

Cut  into  thick  slices  some  boiled  calf's  feet,  dip  them  into  beaten  egg,  roll  them 
in  breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  to  a  light  brown.  Fry  some  slices  of  onions, 
place  them  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  pieces  of  feet  around,  and  serve, 
or  they  may  be  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 


242  VEAL. 

Grilled  Calf's   Feet. 

Remove  all  the  bones  from  a  blanched  calf's  foot,  cut  the  flesh  into  rather  small 
pieces,  egg  and  breadcrumb  them  and  grill  until  they  are  of  a  light  brown,  then  serve. 

Stewed  Calf's  Feet. 

Put  a  well-cleaned  calf's  foot  into  a  saucepan  with  four  onions,  two  or  three 
cloves,  one  bayleaf,  pepper  and  salt  and  stew  all  gently  until  done.  Then  remove  all 
the  meat  from  the  bones,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  egg  and  breadcrumb  them  and 
fry  them  in  butter  to  a  light  brown."  Serve  the  foot  with  a  puree  of  tomatoes  or 
mushrooms. 

Calf's   Feet  with    Piquant  Sauce. 

The  same  as  for  boiled  calf's  feet,  using  one-half  pint  of  piquant  sauce  to  pour 

ovetvjjiOOq^ 

Calf's  Feet  with  Poulette  Sauce. 

.•.;•.-, 

Same  as  boiled  calf's  feet,  adding  one-half  pint  of  poulette  sauce,  made  as  fol- 
lows :  Put  one  pint  of  hot  German  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  fresh 
butter,  add  the  juice  of  one-half  of  a  medium-sized  lemon,  and  one  teaspoonfui  of 
chopped  parsley.  Heat  thoroughly  on  a  hot  stove  until  well  melted  and  mixed,  but 
do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Keep  the  sauce  warm,  and  serve  poured  over  the  calf's  feet 
on  a  dish. 

Braised    Fillet   of  Veal. 

Choose  a  nice  piece  of  fillet  of  veal,  any  part  can  be  used ;  put  a  good  sized 
lump  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  to  melt  ;  put  in  the  veal  and  brown  it  on  both  sides. 
Pour  clear  broth  or  water  over  the  veal,  place  the  cover  on,  and  steam  over  a  clear 
fire,  basting  occasionally  with  its  own  liquor.  Peel  and  slice  a  carrot  and  onion,  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  each  of  lemon  peel,  mace  and  thyme; 
pour  in  one-half  pint  of  water  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain  the  seasoned 
water  over  the  veal,  and  continue  cooking  it.  When  the  meat  is  tender,  drain,  place 
it  on  a  hot  dish  and  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and  crisped  slices  of  bacon.  Skim 
the  fat  off  the  cooking  liquor,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  serve  with  the 
meat  in  a  sauce  tureen. 

Roasted   Fillets  of  Veal  with   Fine  Herbs. 

Lard  the  fillets  with  thin  strips  of  bacon,  place  them  in  a  deep  dish  with  some 
finely-chopped  mushrooms,  shallots,  chives,  parsley,  fennel,  laurel  leaves  and  thyme; 
sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  over  them,  cover  them 
with  olive  oil  and  let  soak  for  three  hours.  Drain  the  oil  from  the  fillets,  cover  them 
with  the  mixed  herbs,  wrap  them  in  thickly-buttered  sheets  of  paper,  fastening  them 


VEAL.  243 

securely  to  keep  the  herbs  in,  and  roast  them  in  a  good  hot  oven.  When  cooked 
take  the  paper  off  the  fillets  and  scrape  off  the  herbs.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
some  gravy,  a  little  lemon-juice  and  a  lump  of  butter  and  boil  it.  Beat  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  with  a  small  piece  of  warmed  butter,  rub  the  fillets  in  this  and  then  in 
grated  breadcrumbs,  giving  them  a  good  coating  and  brown  them  in  a  quick  oven. 
When  cooked,  place  the  fillets  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  fried 
parsley,  and  serve  them  with  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Fillet   of  Veal  with  Brain   Fritters. 

Cut  off  a  fillet  from  a  leg  of  veal  and  rub  it  well  over  with  the  juice  of  a  large 
mushroom,  extracted  by  breaking  it  up  and  sprinkling  salt  over.  If  a  little  grated 
orange-peel  and  cayenne  are  added  it  will  be  improved.  Dip  the  fillet  in  flour, 
brush  over  with  egg,  plunge  it  into  boiling  fat  and  fry  it,  or  wrap  it  in  oiled  paper 
and  grill  it  over  a  clear  fire.  Cut  a  calf's  brain  into  equal-sized  pieces,  blanch  and 
stew  in  stock  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Prepare  a  rather  thick  batter  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  two  ounces  of  flour,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil  and  warm  butter; 
when  ready,  beat  in  the  white  of  an  egg  whipped  to  a  froth.  Drain  the  pieces  of 
brain,  dip  them  into  the  batter,  plunge  into  boiling  fat,  fry  and  drain  them.  Place 
the  fillet  on  a  dish,  arrange  the  brain  fritters  and  some  fried  slices  of  potato  round, 
also  sprigs  of  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  thick  brown  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Veal   Fricadelles. 

Chop  fine  two  pounds  or  more  of  lean  veal  and  about  three  ounces  of  lean 
ham.  Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  in  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  of 
milk  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  cooked  to  a  smooth  paste,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  burn  at  the  bottom.  Mix  the  bread  with  the  chopped  veal  and  ham,  season  the 
mixture  with  pepper,  salt  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  work  it  in  with  one- 
fourth  pound  of  butter.  When  well  mixed  divide  the  mixture  into  small  equal-sized 
portions,  roll  them  into  the  balls,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  egg.  Put  one-fourth 
pound  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  and  when  hot  put  in  the  balls  and  fry  them  until 
lightly  browned.  Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  burn  them.  Take  the  balls  out 
of  the  fryingpan  and  stir  into  the  butter  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  When  a  dark 
brown  turn  the  flour  into  the  saucepan,  pour  in  by  degrees  one  and  one-half  pints 
of  stock,  and  when  boiling  put  in  the  balls.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the 
fire  and  allow  the  contents  to  simmer  slowly  for  an  hour.  Turn  the  fricadelles  and 
gravy  on  to  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  or  sippets  of  toast  and  croutons 
of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal. 

Fricandeau  of  veal  is  properly  made  from  the  round  muscle  which  is  found  on 
the  innerside  of  the  leg  of  veal,  and  is  called  the  kernel,  or  cushion.  To  obtain  it  the 


244  VEAL. 

rest  of  the  leg  must  be  used  for  dishes  which  do  not  require  special  cuts.  A  thick 
cutlet  is  sometimes  used  as  a  fricandeau.  Use  a  medium  sized  larding-needle  and 
strips  of  fat  salt  pork  cut  less  than  a  fourth  of  an  inch  square  and  two  inches  long; 
put  the  strips  of  pork  or  lardoons  one  by  one  into  the  split  end  of  the  needle  and 
take  a  succession  of  stitches  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  length  and  depth  in  the 
upper  surface  of  the  veal  in  a  line  down  the  center,  then  make  other  lines  of  lardoons 
on  both  sides  of  the  middle  line,  allowing  the  ends  of  the  lardoons  to  come  between 
each  other,  until  the  upper  surface  of  the  veal  is  thickly  larded.  After  this  is  done 
it  may  be  braised  or  baked.  The  fricandeau  can  be  baked  on  a  bed  of  vegetables, 
which  may  afterwards  be  rubbed  through  a  sieve  with  a  masher  and  form  the  basis  of 
a  brown  gravy,  or  it  may  be  garnished  after  cooking  with  green  peas  and  spinach,  or 
served  with  brown  mushroom  sauce.  A  larded  fricandeau  is  a  choice  dish,  even  when 
it  is  made  from  a  thick  cutlet,  if  garnished  with  button  mushrooms  and  truffles.  When 
it  is  not  desirable  to  use  lardoons  of  pork,  bacon  strips  of  cold  boiled  tongue  may 
replace  them,  or  beef  fat,  if  it  be  found  sufficiently  tough  to  permit  it  to  be  pulled 
through  the  rather  dense  fiber  of  uncooked  meat.  In  larding  veal  the  udder  fat 
makes  very  passable  lardoons.  This  fat  is  rather  more  substantial  than  that  which 
lies  about  the  kidneys,  and  which  would  crumble  if  drawn  into  uncooked  meat.  If 
the  thin,  fat  membrane  that  is  sometimes  spread  over  spring  lamb  is  cut  into  small 
squares  it  may  be  used  in  place  of  pork. 

Fricandeau   of  Veal  with   Puree  of  Sorrel. 

Cut  a  slice  weighing  about  three  pounds  from  a  leg  of  veal,  remove  the  sinews 
and  lard  the  surface  with  fat  bacon  or  pork,  using  a  medium-sized  larding-needle. 
Place  it  in  a  sautepan  in  which  there  are  already  pieces  of  pork  skin,  one  sliced  onion, 
one  sliced  carrot  and  a  garnished  bouquet.  Season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
cover  with  buttered  paper  and  let  it  color  slightly  for  five  minutes  on  the  stove. 
Then  moisten  with  one-half  pint  of  white  broth  and  cook  for  an  hour.  Serve  with 
one-half  pint  of  puree  of  sorrel  on  the  dish,  placing  the  veal  on  top. 

Grenadins  of  Veal,  Chipolata. 

The  same  as  for  grenadins  of  veal  with  puree  of  green  peas,  only  adding  one  pint 
of  hot  chipolata  garnishing  instead  of  the  peas. 

Grenadins   of  Veal   with   Puree   of  Green    Peas. 

Cut  into  half  a  dozen  pieces  two  pounds  of  lean  veal  taken  from  the  leg. 
Remove  the  sinews  and  lard  the  veal  on  one  side,  using  a  rather  coarse  needle  for  the 
purpose.  Lay  the  pieces  on  a  sautepan  with  one  onion,  one  carrot  and  some  scraps 
of  pork,  and  let  them  brown  together  for  six  minutes.  Season  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  moisten  with  one  gill  of  white  broth.  Place  the  pan  in  the  oven, 


VEAL.  245 

covering  it  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  ;  at  the  end  of  thirty  minutes,  or  when  the 
contents  are  of  a  good  color,  remove  it,  and  serve  with  one-half  pint  of  hot  puree  of 
peas,  spread  on  a  dish,  the  grenadins  on  top,  and  the  gravy  strained  and  poured  over 
all. 

Veal   Ham. 

Trim  a  leg  of  veal  to  the  shape  of  a  ham.  Mix  well  together  one  pint  of  bay 
salt,  one  pound  of  common  salt,  one  or  two  ounces  of  saltpeter,  one  ounce  of  powdered 
cinnamon  and  one  ounce  of  juniper  berries,  also  powdered.  Rub  the  meat  well  with 
this  mixture,  and  place  it  on  a  tray  with  the  skin  downwards.  Baste  it  well  every 
day  for  about  two  weeks.  At  the  end  of  that  time  hang  the  meat  over  wood  smoke 
for  a  fortnight.  Afterwards  boil  or  partially  boil,  and  then  roast  it. 

Haricot  of  Veal. 

Select  four  or  five  pounds  of  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  veal,  cut  or  chop  the  bones 
short  but  do  not  cut  up  the  veal,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  cover  it  with  brown  gravy  and 
let  it  simmer.  Stew  in  another  saucepan  in  some  good  stock  six  small  cucumbers 
peeled  and  sliced,  two  cabbage  lettuces  well  washed  and  cut  in  quarters,  and  one  pint 
of  green  peas.  When  these  are  cooked  and  the  veal  nearly  done  put  them  into  the 
stewpan  with  the  veal  and  let  all  simmer  together  for  ten  minutes.  Place  the  veal  on 
a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  eight  pieces  of  lettuce  and  a  few  forcemeat  balls  round  it,  pour 
the  gravy  and  the  rest  of  the  vegetables  over,  and  serve. 

Hashed  Veal. 

The  remains  of  cold  veal  can  be  used  and  it  is  better  if  rather  underdone.  Cut 
the  meat  into  thin  slices,  trimming  off  all  the  skin  and  gristle;  slice  a  couple  of  onions 
and  shallots,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  dredge  them  over  lightly 
with  flour  and  toss  over  the  fire  until  they  begin  to  brown.  Pour  in  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  pint  of  clear  broth,  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  boil  gently  for  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes.  Place  the  slices  of  veal  in  a  clean  stewpan,  strain  the  gravy  over 
them,  put  in  one  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  the  grated  peel  of  half  of  a 
small  lemon  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg;  season  the  whole  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Let  the  hash  simmer  for  five  minutes  close  to  the  fire.  Turn  it  out  onto  a 
hot  dish,  garnish  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Boiled  Calf's  Head. 

Plunge  a  fine,  fresh,  white  calf's  head  into  hot  water,  leaving  it  for  one  minute, 
lift  it  out  and  sharply  rub  it  all  over  with  a  rough  towel  in  order  to  remove  all  remain- 
ing hairs.  Carefully  cut  the  flesh,  beginning  at  the  center  of  the  head,  right  down  to 
the  nostrils.  Then,  with  a  very  sharp  knife,  bone  it  from  the  top  to  the  base  on  both 
sides.  Place  in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one 


246  VEAL. 

medium-sized,  well  cleaned  and  sliced  carrot,  one  sound  peeled  onion,  eighteen  or 
twenty  whole  peppers  and  two  or  three  pinches  of  salt.  Pour  in  very  gradually  two 
quarts  of  cold  water,  briskly  stirring  until  all  is  added.  Cut  up  half  of  the  head  into 
six  equal  pieces,  add  them  to  the  broth,  as  also  the  other  whole  half,  and  let  all  cook 
together  over  a  moderate  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Lift  up  the  pieces  and  the  half 
head  and  place  the  six  pieces  on  a  dry  napkin.  Have  ready  a  hot  dish  with  a  folded 
napkin  over  it,  tastefully  dress  the  six  pieces  on  it,  decorate  with  parsley  or  greens, 
and  serve  with  any  desired  sauce.  Place  the  remaining  half  head  in  a  stone  jar, 
strain  the  broth  over  it  and  preserve  it  in  a  cool  place  for  any  purpose  desired. 

Boiled  Calf's  Head  with   Vinaigrette   Sauce. 

Proceed  the  same  as  for  boiled  calf's  head,  laying  a  folded  napkin  on  the  dish 
and  fixing  thereon  the  half  of  the  head.  Decorate  with  parsley  leaves,  and  serve  with 
one  pint  of  vinaigrette  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Braised  Calf's  Head. 

Clean  and  bone  the  head.  Prepare  a  sufficient  quantity  of  finely-chopped  lean 
veal  and  fat  bacon  to  stuff  it.  Season  the  stuffing  with  sweet  herbs,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  bind  it  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Stuff  the  head,  sew  it  up  securely  to 
prevent  the  stuffing  from  oozing  out  and  wrap  it  in  a  cloth.  Line  a  braising  pan  with 
slices  of  veal  and  bacon;  also  a  few  slices  of  carrots;  put  in  the  head  with  a  bunch  of 
thyme  and  parsley  and  two  bay  leaves;  season  to  taste  with  spice,  and  pour  in  one 
pint  of  broth  and  one-half  pint  of  white  wine.  Stew  the  head  for  four  hours.  When 
cooked  take  it  out  of  the  cloth,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  garnish  with  a  financiere  stew. 
Strain  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  head  into  a  small  clean  stewpan,  mix  a  wineglassful 
of  Madeira  wine  with  it;  boil  it  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  it  over  the  head,  and  serve. 

Calfs  Head,  Financiere. 

For  the  preparation  of  this  neat  dish  all  the  principal  parts  are  prepared  as  for  a 
stew — the  ears  are  scalded  and  stuffed,  the  brains  formed  into  cakes.  The  pieces  of 
meat  are  cut  into  large  discs  and  arranged  round  a  forcemeat  loaf  made  of  the  trim- 
mings, and  around  this  again,  either  on  the  same  dish  or  upon  one  below  it,  the  ears 
and  brain-cakes  are  arranged  with  blanched  olives  and  button  mushrooms.  Skewers 
garnished  with  cockscombs,  truffles  and  various  other  things,  surmount  the  whole. 

Hashed  Calf's  Head. 

Cut  any  desirable  quantity  of  cold  boiled  calf's  head  into  pieces  about  the  size 
of  a  small  apple.  Put  two  or  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  to  melt,  mix  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  add  one  or  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  veal  stock. 
When  thoroughly  incorporated  add  a  few  small  mushrooms,  salt  and  pepper  to  suit 


VEAL. 


247 


the  taste,  and  boil  well  for  ten  minutes  or  so.  Remove  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the 
fire,  add  the  hashed  meat  and  allow  it  to  get  hot  without  boiling.  Remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  up  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and 
strained,  and  also  add  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  tarragon.  Turn  the  hash  out  onto 
a  dish,  and  serve. 

Calf's   Head  in  Tortue. 

Cut  the  meat  of  half  a  cold-boiled  calf's  head  into  small  pieces.  Mix  one  wine- 
glassful  of  sherry  with  one-half  pint  of  well  reduced  stock,  add  to  this  the  yolks  of 
six  hard  boiled  eggs  and  the  whites  cut  into  small  pieces,  three  chopped  gherkins,  six 
quenelles  of  veal  forcemeat,  the  pieces  of  head  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Place 
the  saucepan  over  the  fire  till  the  contents  are  hot.  Pile  the  pieces  of  head  in  the 
middle  of  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  and  eggs  round  it,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread,  and  serve. 

Calf's   Head,  Royal  Style. 

This  is  considered  by  all  epicures  the  very  best  of  calf's  head  dishes.  In  the 
center  of  a  silver  dish  is  set  a  forcemeat  loaf  made  from  the  fragments  of  the  heads 
and  necks  used,  scraps  of  veal,  tongue  and  other  things.  About  this  are  laid,  over- 
lapping each  other,  discs  of  the  meat  off  the  head,  and  between  these  alternately 
a  blanched  cockscomb  and  three  button  mushrooms,  diminishing  in  size  upwards. 
The  ears  scored  and  stuffed  with  a  truffle  in  each,  are  placed  on  the  loaf  with  truffles 
between  them,  and  fried  bread  wedge-shaped  croutons  are  ranged  round  the  loaf,  with 
truffles  set  on  the  base  of  every  crouton.  A  few  sprigs  of  fried  parsley  are  some- 
times added,  and  the  whole  is  served  with  royal  sauce. 

Stewed  Calf's   Head. 

After  boning  a  calf's  head,  cut  out  the  tongue  and  brains,  and  steep  them  with 
the  meat  in  cold  water  for  a  few  hours.  Chop  fine  one-half  pound  of  lean  veal 
and  one  pound  of  beef  suet  and  mix  with  them  one  breakfast  cupful  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs, the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  herbs, 
and  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg  in  suitable  quantities.  Mix  these  ingredients 
well  and  bind  them  together  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  or  five  eggs.  Wash  the 
head,  dry  it  on  a  cloth,  stuff  it  with  some  of  the  forcemeat  and  bind  it  round  securely 
with  tape.  Place  the  head  in  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two  quarts  of 
clear  gravy,  and  one-half  pint  of  white  wine.  Put  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  the 
liquor  boils,  then  move  it  to  the  side,  cover  it  tightly,  and  keep  the  contents  sim- 
mering until  the  head  is  tender.  Boil  the  tongue  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and, 
when  cooked,  drain  and  cut  into  thin  slices.  Chop  the  brains  with  a  small  quantity 
of  parsley,  dredge  them  with  about  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  season  with  finely- 
minced  lemon-peel,  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg;  then  mix  in 
two  well-beaten  eggs.  Shape  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat  into  small  balls,  put  a 


248  VEAL. 

large  lump  of  dripping  into  a  fryingpan,  make  it  hot,  and  fry  the  foremeat  balls  in  it, 
also  the  brain  mixture  which  should  be  dropped  in  with  a  spoon  in  small  quantities. 
When  fried  drain  the  forcemeat  balls  and  brain  cakes  on  a  wire  sieve  in  front  of  a 
clear  fire.  When  the  head  is  cooked,  remove  the  tapes  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish, 
strain  the  cooking  liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  return  it  to  the  saucepan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter  that  has  been  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over 
the  fire  until  thickened.  More  salt  and  pepper  may  now  be  added  if  required. 
Make  the  slices  of  tongue  hot  in  the  gravy,  then  pour  it  over  the  calf's  head;  garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon  the  forcemeat  balls  and  brain  cakes,  and  serve  while  it  is  very 
hot.  If  there  is  too  much  liquor  to  go  on  the  dish  with  the  head,  serve  the  remainder 
in  a  sauceboat. 

Veal   in  the  Saucepan. 

Cut  four  pounds  of  veal  about  three  inches  thick  off  the  fillet,  roll  it  up,  bind  it 
round  with  tape,  rub  it  over  with  flour,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  lump  of 
butter,  and  fry  it  until  nicely  browned  all  over.  Pour  one-half  pint  of  rich  gravy  in 
with  the  veal,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  the  lid  on  the  stewpan,  and  cook 
the  contents  slowly  for  four  hours.  When  done,  take  the  veal  up,  place  it  on  a  hot 
dish,  first  removing  the  tape,  and  keep  it  hot.  Boil  the  cooking  liquor  quickly  until 
stiffly  reduced,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat  and  serve. 


Veal,  Italian   Style. 


Boil  about  one  pint  of  milk  with  an  onion  and  a  bay  leaf,  for  fifteen  minutes  ; 
then  remove  the  bay  leaf,  and  pour  the  boiling  milk  over  a  heaping  breakfast  cupful 
of  breadcrumbs.  Chop  fine  one  pound  of  raw  veal  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar, 
mixing  with  it  a  small  quantity  of  cold,  cooked  fat ;  then  mix  in  the  soaked  crumbs, 
and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  coarse  sieve.  Divide  it  into  equal  portions,  which 
mould  into  rolls  with  flour.  Procure  as  many  pieces  of  cloth  as  there  are  rolls,  wring 
them  out  in  boiling  water,  flour  them,  tie  a  roll  in  each,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  When  cooked,  drain  the  rolls, 
remove  the  cloths,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  well-flavored  brown  sauce 
round  them,  and  serve. 

Braised   Kernel  of  Veal  with  Bechamel  Sauce. 

Remove  the  udder  and  pare  a  cushion  of  veal,  lard  it  interiorly  with  fillets  of 
bacon,  and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Line  a  bakingpan  with  trimmings 
of  bacon  and  ham  and  some  sliced  vegetables  ;  put  in  the  cushion  with  about  one 
teacupful  of  broth,  and  place  the  cover  on.  Place  some  hot  ashes  on  the  lid,  and 
braise  it  over  a  slow  fire.  Cut  some  mushrooms  into  slices,  place  them  in  a  frying- 
pan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  until  the  moisture  has  reduced  slightly.  Season 
the  mushrooms  with  pepper  and  salt,  put  them  in  one  pint  of  reduced  bechamel 


VEAL.  249 

sauce,  and  boil  them  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  move  them  to  the  side.  When 
the  veal  is  done,  remove  it  from  the  braisingpan  and  cut  it  up  into  thin  slices.  Line 
the  bottom  of  a  deep  dish  with  the  mushroom  mixture,  then  arrange  the  slices  of 
meat  on  it,  putting  them  into  shape  again,  alternating  each  layer  with  a  small 
quantity  of  the  mushroom  mixture.  Place  the  dish  in  the  oven  until  the  surface  of 
its  contents  is  nicely  colored,  then  remove  it,  garnish  with  croquettes  of  potatoes,  and 
serve. 

Kernel  of  Veal  in   Ballotines. 

Lard  a  cushion  of  veal  with  strips  of  bacon  that  have  been  well-seasoned  with 
mixed  spices,  finely-chopped  parsley,  thyme  and  bay  leaves,  shallot,  salt  and  pepper. 
Melt  about  one-half  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  dredge  the  veal  over  with  salt  and 
pepper,  put  it  in  and  stew  over  a  slow  fire.  In  forty-five  minutes  take  the  veal  out  of 
the  pan  and  put  it  on  a  dish.  Mix  in  with  the  butter  four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
bacon,  one  teacupful  of  pure  olive  oil,  and  a  scant  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallots. 
Fry  these  ingredients  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  a  dozen  chopped  mushrooms,  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  small 
quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  When  well  done  pour  the  mixture  over  the  veal  and 
leave  until  cold.  Afterwards  cover  the  meat  with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  and  wrap  it 
with  all  its  seasoning  in  a  sheet  of  paper;  fold  it  up  securely  seeing  that  the  seasoning 
cannot  escape,  and  bind  it  round  with  tape.  Place  it  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a 
clear  fire  for  an  hour  or  so,  turning  it  occasionally.  Take  care  not  to  allow  the  paper 
to  burn.  When  cooked,  place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Kernel  of  Veal,  Jardiniere. 


Beat  and  trim  a  cushion  of  veal,  and  lard  it  with  thin  strips  of  fat  becon  two 
inches  long.  Put  some  slices  of  bacon  and  two  sliced  onions  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
bay  leaves,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley;  add  the  cushion,  pour  over  it  one  pint  of  white 
stock,'  cover  with  the  lid,  and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours.  Baste  the 
veal  occasionally  with  its  own  liquor;  if  the  moisture  becomes  absorbed,  pour  in  a 
little  more  broth  or  some  water.  Peel  eighteen  young  onions,  the  same  number  of 
carrots,  and  the  same  of  young  turnips;  the  two  latter  should  be  cut  the  shape  of 
pears.  Blanch  the  vegetables;  put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  sautepan  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  moist  sugar,  melt  it,  and  then  put  in  the  onions;  cover  them  with 
stock,  and  stew  gently  until  tender.  Cook  the  carrots  and  turnips  in  the  same  way, 
only  in  separate  pans.  The  cooking  stock  of  the  vegetables  should  be  reduced  to  a 
thin  glaze  by  the  time  they  are  cooked.  Peel  and  boil  about  four  pounds  of  potatoes, 
drain  them  when  soft,  mash  them  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk  or  butter,  press  them 
into  a  border  mould,  and  stand  it  in  a  bain  marie.  Put  the  glaze  from  the  vegetables 
into  a  sautepan  with  one  quart  of  brown  sauce  and  about  one  breakfast  cupful  of  the 
gravy  from  the  veal,  first  freeing  it  from  fat.  Boil  the  sauce  until  it  becomes  reduced 


250  VEAL. 

to  rather  a  thick  glace,  skimming  it  frequently.  When  cooked,  glaze  the  kernel  or 
cushion  and  brown  it  under  a  salamander.  Turn  the  border  of  potatoes  onto  a  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  glazed  vegetables  on  the  border,  and  place  the  noix  in  the  center. 
Pour  the  sauce  over  the  vegetables,  and  serve. 

Kernel  of  Veal,  Sauted. 

Trim  off  the  skin  and  cut  a  kernel  of  veal  into  small  round  pieces  about  one  and 
one-half  inches  in  diameter,  beat  and  trim  them  neatly.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of 
butter  into  a  sautepan,  set  it  on  a  good  fire,  and  when  melted  put  in  the  pieces  of 
meat  with  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  toss  until  cooked, 
then  place  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  one-half  pint  of  well  reduced  veloute  sauce 
into  the  pan  with  the  butter,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  move  it  to  the 
side,  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  that  have  been  well-beaten  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  meat,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Veal    Kidney,  Maitre   d'Hotel. 

Cut  a  veal  Kidney  in  halves  lengthwise,  pound  it  lightly,  sprinkle  over  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  each  piece  in  butter  that  has  been  slightly  warmed.  Cover 
thickly  the  pieces  of  kidney  with  the  butter  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  allowing 
about  five  minutes  for  each  side.  Place  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  basin,  season  it  with 
chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  squeeze  in  a  little  lemon  juice  and  work  it  close  to 
the  fire  until  warm,  though  it  must  not  be  oiled.  Put  the  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  a 
dish,  place  the  pieces  of  kidney  over,  and  serve. 


Fried  Veal   Kidney. 


Remove  the  fat  from  several  kidneys  and  cut  them  into  rather  thin  slices;  spray 
the  slices  with  pepper  and  salt,  plunge  them  into  well-beaten  egg  and  then  into  bread- 
crumbs and  fry  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter  until  done.  Put  a  mince  of  mush- 
rooms in  the  center  of  a  dish,  place  the  slices  of  kidney  around,  cover  over  with  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  Colbert  sauce,  and  serve. 


Veal  Kidney  Fritter. 


Put  four  or  five  eggs  into  a  basin,  beat  them  well,  add  one  teacupful  of  cream,  a 
little  finely-shred  parsley,  cloves  and  chopped  mushrooms,  seasoning  with  pounded 
mace,  salt  and  pepper.  Mince  fine  the  required  quantity  of  kidney,  together  with 
a  little  of  the  fat  adhering  to  it,  and  stir  this  in  with  the  egg  mixture.  Butter  a.fry- 
ingpan  and  place  it  on  the  fire;  when  hot  pour  in  the  mixture  and  stir  it  until  cooked, 
using  care  not  to  spread  it  out  too  thin.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  brown  che 
mixture  with  a  salamander,  or  by  holding  the  pan  in  front  of  the  fire,  and  serve  im- 
mediately. 


VEAL.  251 

Veal   Kidney   Stewed  in  Wine. 

Cut  a  veal  kidney  into  several  pieces,  remove  the  sinewy  parts  and  cut  it  in  slices 
of  moderate  thickness.  Put  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan  to  melt; 
then  put  in  the  slices  of  kidney,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk 
fire  until  the  moisture  has  disappeared.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  shallot 
and  onions  into  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  them  without  browning;  add 
fifteen  or  eighteen  mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  clove  of  garlic  in  with  the 
onions.  Pour  in  over  the  onions,  etc.,  one-half  pint  of  white  wine  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  gravy.  Boil  the  liquor  till  it  is  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity,  then  strain 
it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  another  saucepan;  stir  in  with  it  a  little  thick  brown 
sauce  and  a  half  teacupful  of  melted  glaze,  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes, then  throw  in  the  slices  of  kidney  and  heat  them  without  boiling.  Take  the 
garlic  and  bunch  of  parsley  out  of  the  liquor,  place  the  kidney  and  sauce  on  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  or  bits  of  toast,  and  serve.  The  slices  of 
kidney  may  also  be  served  in  a  fancy  paste  croustade. 

Braised   Knuckle   of  Veal. 

Lard  well  a  knuckle  of  veal  weighing  about  three  pounds;  braise  it  in  a  pan  with 
one  ounce  of  fresh  salt  pork,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  oj:  pepper. 
Cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then,  and  moistening  with  one-half  pint 
each  of  Spanish  sauce  and  white  broth.  Add  one  pint  of  raw  jardiniere  and  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  flageolets.  Cook  all  together  for  forty-five  minutes.  Transfer  the 
knuckle  to  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  garnishing  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Baked   Leg   of  Veal   with   Cream   Sauce. 

Place  a  small  leg  of  veal  in  rather  a  deep  baking  dish;  melt  a  lump  of  butter, 
pour  it  over  the  veal  and  roast  it  in  a  slack  oven.  Turn  the  meat  now  and  then  and 
baste  it  well.  When  nearly  cooked  sprinkle  over  with  a  little  flour  and  salt,  pour  over 
it  one-half  pint  of  cream  and  finish  cooking,  basting  from  time  to  time  and  keeping 
the  oven  slack.  When  done  drain  the  leg,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  arrange  a  truffle 
round  the  knuckle-bone.  Pour  the  cream  into  a  small  saucepan,  mix  a  small  quantity 
of  melted  glaze  with  it  and  boil  until  slightly  reduced.  Add  two  or  three  drops  of 
vinegar,  then  pour  the  same  over  the  meat,  and  serve. 


Leg  of  Veal  in   Surprise. 


Lard  the  veal  with  fat  bacon  and  lemon  peel  cut  very  thin.  Make  a  rich  oyster 
forcemeat  to  stuff  it  with.  When  stuffed  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  barely  cover  with  water, 
and  allow  it  to  stew  until  tender  and  thoroughly  done,  then  take  it  up.  Skim  the 
liquor  well  leaving  no  fat  on  it,  and  add  to  it  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  the 


252  VEAL. 

crumb  of  a  roll  grated  finely,  a  little  mushroom  catsup,  a  small  quantity  of  lemon 
juice,  one  pint  of  cream  and  one-half  pint  of  oysters  ;  stir  this  over  the  fire  until  it 
thickens,  let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  over  the  veal ;  garnish  with  oysters 
fried  in  butter  and  slices  of  toasted  bacon. 

Calf's  Liver. 

Those  who  are  addicted  to  the  eating  of  liver  will  appreciate  that  of  the  calf 
above  all  others.  It  should  be  cut  into  slices  a  half  inch  or  so  thick,  and  well 
washed,  dried  and  floured  before  using.  The  flesh  is  close  and  dry  when  cooked, 
and  therefore  requires  some  qualifying  material  to  be  served  with  it,  such  as  bacon. 

Liver   and   Bacon   in   Paper  Cases. 

Boil  some  calf's  liver  until  tender  and  cut  it  into  slices.  Open  a  sheet  of  com- 
mon note  paper,  and  place  on  one-half  of  it  a  nicely  trimmed  rasher  of  bacon;  have 
well  mixed  half  an  ounce  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  and  about  one  saltspoonful  each  of 
pepper,  sifted  herbs,  chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  very  finely-chopped  onion ;  sprinkle 
nearly  one  teaspoonful  of  this  seasoning  over  the  rasher  of  bacon,  lay  it  on  a  slice  of 
the  liver,  sprinkle  this  also  with  about  a  teaspoonful  of  the  seasoning,  lay  on  top  an- 
other nicely-trimmed  thin  rasher,  fold  the  other  half  of  the  paper  over,  turn  up  the 
edges  of  the  paper  at  the  three  open  sides,  and  fry  for  quarter  of  an  hour,  turning 
once.  Serve  while  it  is  very  hot. 

Braised   Calf's   Liver. 

Remove  the  skin,  gall  and  spleen  from  a  very  white  calf's  liver,  lard  it  with  some 
well-seasoned  fillets  of  ham  and  fat  bacon,  the  larding  to  be  done  in  such  a  way  that 
the  fillets  do  not  cross  the  top  surface.  Put  the  liver  in  a  basin  with  some  trimmings 
of  truffles,  a  bay  leaf,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  thyme  and  a  little  salt  and  spices. 
Let  it  remain  in  this  for  two  hours,  then  wrap  the  liver  and  seasonings  up  in  a  large 
piece  of  pig's  caul,  and  tie  it  securely  with  tape.  Place  a- good-sized  lump  of  lard  in 
a  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  put  the  liver  in,  fry  it  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  then  put 
the  lid  on  the  stewpan  with  some  live  embers  on  the  top,  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  braise  the  liver  for  one  hour,  turning  it  frequently.  Peel  and  scald  two 
dozen  small  onions  and  two  dozen  small  carrots,  put  them  in  with  the  liver,  the  onions 
on  one  side  and  the  carrots  on  the  other,  sprinkle  in  a  little  salt,  place  the  lid  on  the 
stewpan  again,  with  a  fresh  supply  of  live  embers  on  the  top,  and  finish  cooking  by 
the  side  of  a  moderate  fire  for  another  hour.  Remove  the  liver,  drain  it,  put  it  in  a  hot 
dish,  and  arrange  the  vegetables  neatly  round  it.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  cooking  liquor, 
mix  with  it  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  a  little  gravy,  boil  quickly  till  it  is 
reduced  one-half,  then  mix  with  it  a  small  quantity  of  brown  sauce  and  stir  over  the 
fire  a  few  minutes  longer.  Sprinkle  in  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  strain  the  sauce,  pour 
it  over  the  liver,  and  serve. 


VEAL. 


253 


CalPs   Liver,  Brittany   Style. 


Chop  fine  four  or  five  large-sized  onions,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  bay 
leaf  and  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  till  well  browned.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt,  pepper 
and  flour  over  the  onions,  add  a  pinch  of  sugar,  pour  in  a  half  pint  of  gravy,  and  boil 
them  gently  till  cooked.  Cut  a  calf's  liver  in  slices  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  over  a  quick  fire.  When 
the  pieces  of  liver  are  cooked  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  pour  a  small  quantity  of 
glaze  and  lemon  juice  over  and  sprinkle  in  a  little  chopped  parsley;  toss  them 
about  well  until  all  the  slices  are  covered.  Arrange  these  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  fill  in  the  center  with  the  chopped  onions.  Garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread 
that  have  been  brushed  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze,  and  then  serve. 

Broiled   Calf's    Liver  with   Bacon. 

Take  a  white  and  tender  calf's  liver  weighing  about  a  pound  and  a  half,  pare  and 
trim  off  the  hard  portions,  cut  it  into  six  slices  of  equal  size  and  put  them  on  a  dish. 
Season  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  sweet  oil;  mix  well  together.  Broil  for  a  few  minutes  on  each  side,  arrange 
the  slices  on  a  hot  dish  and  decorate  with  six  thin,  crisp  slices  of  broiled  bacon. 
Spread  over  the  whole  one  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Curried   Calf's   Liver. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  liver  into  small  thin  pieces.  Fry  two  small  sliced  onions  in 
a  little  butter,  put  in  the  pieces  of  liver  and  fry  them,  adding  more  butter  as  required. 
Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  it  in 
with  the  liver,  sprinkle  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  cayenne  over,  then  stir  all  over  the 
fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  adding  slowly  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of 
stock.  Boil  and  turn  all  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and 
serve. 

Calf's   Liver,  French   Style. 

Select  a  sound  white  liver,  cut  it  into  slices  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
two  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  finely  chopped 
shallot,  a  small  lump  of  butter,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Put  on  the  lid  and  keep 
the  saucepan  close  to  a  moderate  fire  in  order  that  the  liver  may  cook  without  sim- 
mering. When  thoroughly  done,  which  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  put  it  on 
a  hot  dish  and  keep  it  warm.  Boil  the  gravy  and  bacon  together,  pour  it  over  the 
liver,  and  serve  at  once. 

Calf's   Liver,  Milanese   Style. 

Cut  a  large,  white  liver  into  thin  slices,  pound  these  slightly,  sprinkle  over  a 
little  salt  and  mixed  spices,  dredge  with  flour,  and  dip  in  beaten  eggs.  Place  some 


254 


VEAL. 


lard  in  a  fryingpan,  and  when  boiling  plunge  the  slices  of  liver  in.  Fry  them  till 
well  browned,  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over;  arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with 
lemons  cut  in  quarters,  and  serve. 

Minced   Calf's   Liver. 

Chop  fine  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  calf's  liver,  a  small  onion  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  fat  bacon.  Place  the  onion  and  bacon  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  piece  of 
butter,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes.  Then  put  in  the  liver  and  sprinkle 
over  salt  and  pepper,  and  any  kind  of  seasoning  that  may  be  desired,  and  stir  the 
whole  over  the  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  Turn  the  mixtnre  onto  a  dish,  leave  it 
until  cool,  then  mix  in  three  well-beaten  eggs.  Sew  a  caul  into  a  bag,  put  the  mince 
into  it,  and  fasten  at  the  end.  Melt  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  then 
put  it  in  the  bag,  place  the  lid  on  the  saucepan,  and  steam  it  for  an  hour  turning 
occasionally.  When  cooked  take  the  caul  out  of  the  saucepan,  and  allow  it  to  get 
cold  before  serving. 

Stewed   Calf's  Liver,  Bourgeoise. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  a  small  calf's  liver  thoroughly  larded  with  pieces 
of  larding  pork  —  previously  seasoned  with  a  pinch  or  two  of  chopped  parsley  and  a 
clove  (crushed)  of  garlic — with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  clarified  butter,  one  sprig  of 
thyme,  two  bay  leaves,  half  of  a  sliced  carrot,  and  half  of  a  sliced  onion,  then  turn  the 
liver  over  and  moisten  it  with  one  gill  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  one  gill  of  white  broth. 
Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper,  and  cook  for  forty-five  minutes. 
Strain  the  sauce  into  another  saucepan,  meanwhile  keeping  the  liver  in  a  warm  place; 
add  to  the  gravy  two  medium-sized,  well-scraped,  sliced  raw  carrots,  and  two  or  three 
ounces  of  salted  pork  cut  into  shreds.  Stew  well  together  for  twenty-five  minutes, 
and  pour  the  garnishing  over  the  liver  just  prior  to  serving.  Decorate  with  six  or 
eight  small  onions  placed  round  the  dish. 

Veal   Loaf. 

Put  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  veal  into  a  stewpan  with  an  onion,  carrot  and 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  pepper  and  salt,  and  sufficient  water  to  cover  it,  and  stew  the 
veal  gently  until  tender.  Ornament  the  interior  of  a  mould  with  hard-boiled  eggs, 
beet-root  and  olives,  all  cut  into  different  shapes,  and  stuck  with  half-set  aspic  jelly. 
Leave  the  mould  until  the  jelly  has  set.  Drain  the  veal  when  cooked,  trim  off  all 
the  fat,  chop  it  fine,  and  mix  one  pint  of  liquid  jelly  with  it.  When  the  mince  is 
nearly  cold,  turn  it  carefully  into  the  decorated  mould,  and  leave  till  set.  Turn  the 
shape  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  fancy  dish,  garnish  it  with  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 


VEAL.  255 

Braised   Loin   of  Veal. 

Remove  the  bone  from  the  loin,  and  lard  it  with  thick  strips  of  bacon.  Place 
some  thin  slices  of  bacon  in  a  stewpan,  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  parsley,  chives,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  a  bunch  of  thyme,  and  some  laurel  leaves,  put  in  the  larded  veal, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  cover  with  slices  of  carrots,  onions  and  turnips, 
moisten  with  stock  to  a  trifle  more  than  half  its  height,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an 
hour.  When  cooked  put  the  veal  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  silk  sieve, 
boil  it  quickly  until  reduced,  then  pour  it  over  the  veal,  and  serve. 

Loin  of  Veal,  Farmer's   Style. 

Stuff  about  seven  pounds  of  the  loin  of  veal  cut  from  the  best  end  with  veal 
forcemeat,  truss  it  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  thickly  buttered  paper.  Roast  the  veal 
in  the  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  basting  frequently  with  butter.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  baste  the  veal  with  cream  until  it  is  well  cooked  (which  will  take  about 
thirty  minutes  longer).  When  done  dress  the  veal  on  a  hot  dish,  mix  the  basting 
cream  with  a  little  hot  bechamel  sauce  and  water,  pour  it  over  the  veal,  and  serve. 

Roasted  Loin  of  Veal. 

Saw  the  spine  and  whatever  hipbone  remains  from  a  fine  white,  fresh  fat  loin  of 
veal  with  the  kidney.  Season  the  loin  with  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  salt 
and  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  roll  the  flank  part  neatly  over  the  kidney, 
tying  it  with  a  string.  Have  in  readiness  a  lightly  buttered  roastingpan,  place  the 
loin  in  it,  pour  in  one  wineglassful  of  water,  and  put  a  few  bits  of  butter  here  and 
there  over  the  meat,  then  cover  its  entire  length  with  a  piece  of  well-buttered  paper. 
Place  the  pan  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  roast  for  one  hour  and  three-quarters,  basting 
it  frequently  meanwhile  with  its  own  gravy.  Remove  it  from  the  oven,  untie  and 
place  it  on  a  hotwater  dish.  Add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth  to  the  gravy  in  the 
pan,  skim  off  the  fat  and  reduce  it  to  the  consistency  of  half  glaze.  Strain  it  through 
a  sieve,  either  over  the  roasted  meat  or  into  a  sauceboat,  and  serve  at  once. 

Minced   Veal,  Turkish   Style. 

Mince  fine  three  pounds  of  raw  veal,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces 
of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  it  over 
the  fire  until  the  moisture  has  evaporated,  and  the  mince  is  well  browned.  Peel  and 
chop  fine  three  onions  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  from  the  stems;  soak  the  crumb 
of  a  French  roll  in  water.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  stir  in  sufficient  beaten  egg  to  form  a  rather  stiff  paste,  working  it  well. 
Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  deep  fryingpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then 
pour  in  the  mixture  and  fry  it  until  nicely  browned,  turning  it  when  done  on  one  side 


256  VEAL. 

and  finishing  the  other.     When  cooked  turn  the  cake  of  mincemeat  onto  an  orna- 
mental dish-paper  on  a  hot  plate,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 

/  '' 

Minced  Veal  with  Macaroni. 

Mince  fine  one  pound  of  veal,  and  mix  with  it  one-fourth  pound  each  of  finely- 
grated  breadcrumb  and  minced  ham,  together  with  a  little  lemon  peel.  Season  the 
mixture  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bind  it  together  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rich 
gravy  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Boil  six  ounces  of  macaroni,  and  when  tender 
drain  it  well.  Butter  a  mould,  line  it  with  macaroni,  mix  a  little  of  the  macaroni  with 
the  veal  mixture,  and  turn  it  into  the  mould,  pressing  it  tightly  down.  Stand  the 
mould  in  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water  to  three-fourths  its  height,  and  steam  it  for 
half  an  hour.  When  cooked  turn  the  veal  and  the  macaroni  out  of  the  mould  onto 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  gravy. 

Minced   Veal   with   Mushrooms   and   Cream. 

Empty  a  can  of  small  mushrooms  into  a  saucepan,  put  in  a  piece  of  butter  and 
stew  them  for  fifteen  minutes  over  a  clear  fire.  Chop  fine  some  cold  roasted  veal 
and  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt.  Mince  the  mushrooms,  mix  them  with  the  veal 
and  turn  all  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  that  has  been  well  worked 
with  two  ounces  of  flour  and  a  little  more  than  one-half  teacupful  of  cream  or 
creamy  sauce.  Stir  the  mixture  well  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn  the 
mince  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  sippets  of  toast,  and  serve. 

Mireton   of  Veal. 

Chop  fine  some  cold  roasted  veal,  mix  with  it  one-half  pound  of  ham  also 
very  finely-chopped  and  season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  Soak  the 
crumb  of  a  French  roll  in  one  teacupful  of  milk.  Slice  a  small  onion  and  fry 
it  until  nicely-browned  in  a  little  butter;  then  drain  and  mince  it  fine;  put  all 
the  above  ingredients  in  a  saucepan  with  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon  and  one  tea- 
cupful  of  cream  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  hot.  Beat  an  egg  well  and  add 
it  to  the  mixture,  then  move  the  saucepan  off  the  fire;  butter  a  mould,  pour  the 
mixture  into  it  and  press  the  lid  down  tightly;  put  the  mould  in  the  oven  and 
brown  the  contents  slightly.  When  cooked  place  the  mireton  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  some  rich  gravy  over  it,  and  serve. 

Montglas   of  Veal  with  Croutons. 

Trim  off  all  the  sinewy  parts  of  a  cooked  minion  fillet  of  veal,  cut  it  into 
slices  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  then  cut  them  into  small  squares.  Put 
the  veal  into  a  saucepan  with  half  its  quantity  of  cooked  pickled  tongue  and  mush- 


VEAL.  257 

rooms  also  cut  into  small  pieces.  Pour  one-half  pint  of  brown  sauce  and  one  wine- 
glassful  of  Madeira  wine  over  the  above  ingredients,  season  with  a  little  cayenne 
pepper  and  keep  it  on  the  fire  until  on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  move  it  to  the 
side.  Turn  the  montglas  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  glazed  croutons  of  fried 
bread,  and  serve. 

Braised  Neck  of  Veal  with  Truffles. 

Trim  a  neck  of  veal,  that  part  used  for  cutlets,  cut  the  bone  off  short  and  lard  it 
with  black  truffles  in  such  a  way  as  to  resemble  a  draught-board.  Braise  the  meat 
with  plenty  of  bacon  on  the  top,  so  that  it  will  retain  its  white  color,  and  glaze  the  meat 
slightly.  Put  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  with  Italian  sauce  and  truffles,  and  serve. 

Neck   of  Veal,  St.  Glair  Style. 

Roast  a  nicely-trimmed  end  of  a  neck  of  veal  in  vegetables;  when  nearly  cooked 
remove  the  paper  and  vegetables  and  brown  it  lightly.  Peel  and  boil  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  potatoes,  mash  them  with  butter  and  press  them  into  a  border  mould. 
Stand  the  mould  in  a  bain  marie  to  keep  hot.  Make  about  one  pint  of  thin  tomato 
sauce,  and  mix  with  it  one-half  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  butter.  Cut  a  dozen  slices  of 
bacon  into  heart-shaped  pieces  and  fry  them.  Place  the  veal  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish 
with  the  slices  of  bacon,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Veal   Patties. 

Mince  about  four  pounds  of  leg  of  veal  and  one-fourth  pound  of  salt  pork.  Roll 
half  a  dozen  soda  crackers  and  sift  them.  Mix  with  the  minced  meat  one  table- 
spoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  one  grated  nutmeg  and  two  well-beaten  eggs. 
Mould  the  mixture  into  small  oval  shapes,  place  them  in  a  baking-dish,  sprinkle  the 
cracker-crumbs  over  the  top,  place  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  here  and  there  and  pour 
in  one-half  teacupful  of  water.  Bake  the  patties  in  a  quick  oven,  basting  them  often. 
When  cooked  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a 
sauceboatful  of  clear  gravy. 

Veal  Paupiettes. 

Cut  some  thin  cutlets  from  a  fillet  of  veal,  and  beat  them  flat  and  even.  Mince 
a  small  quantity  of  veal  very  fine,  mix  it  with  some  of  the  kidney  fat  chopped  very 
fine,  and  half  a  dozen  anchovies  chopped  fine  also,  adding  a  little  salt,  ginger  and 
powdered  mace.  Place  this  mixture  over  the  slices  of  veal  and  roll  them  up.  Beat 
up  an  egg,  dip  the  rolled  slices  into  it,  and  then  into  sifted  breadcrumbs.  Let  them 
stand  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  egg  them  again,  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  to  a  golden  brown  in  boiling  lard  or  clarified  dripping,  or  stew  them  in  some 
rich  gravy  with  one-half  pint  of  white  wine  and  a  small  quantity  of  walnut  pickle. 


258  VEAL. 

Veal  Pie,  French  Style. 

Trim  off  the  skin  from  some  remains  of  cold  roast  veal,  and  mince  the  meat  as 
fine  as  possible  with  one-third  of  its  quantity  of  ham.  Open  and  beard  two  dozen 
oysters,  mix  them  with  the  veal,  season  the  mixture  with  powdered  mace,  grated 
lemon  peel,  salt  and  pepper  and  a  few  drops  of  mushroom  ketchup,  and  moisten  it 
with  the  strained  liquor  of  the  oysters  and  a  moderate  quantity  of  rich  brown  gravy. 
Prepare  a  nice  puff  paste,  line  a  buttered  pie-dish  with  it,  put  in  the  above  mixture, 
cover  with  a  flat  of  paste,  trim  it  off  neatly  round  the  edges,  wet  them  with  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  and  pinch  both  together.  Bake  the  pie  for  about  half  an  hour,  or 
until  the  paste  is  cooked,  and  then  serve. 

Veal   Kidney  Pie. 

Chop  very  fine  three  kidneys  together  with  their  fat,  and  stir  in  with  them  a 
small  quantity  of  finely-chopped  sweet  herbs  and  chopped  celery;  season  with  grated 
nutmeg,  mace  and  pounded  cloves,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  adding  the  chopped 
yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  one  scant  breakfast  cupful  of  grated  breadcrumbs. 
Butter  a  pie  dish,  line  it  with  puff  paste,  put  in  the  above  mixture,  moisten  with  one 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  and  cover  the  pie  with  a  flat  layer  of  puff  paste;  trim 
off  evenly  round  the  edges,  moisten  and  press  them  together.  Make  a  slight  incision 
in  the  top  of  the  pie,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  Serve  while  hot. 

Veal  and  Oyster  Pie. 

Cut  one  pound  of  neck  of  veal  into. small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  cover 
with  water  and  stew  them  for  an  hour.  Cut  two  ounces  of  pork  into  small  pieces,  put 
them  in  with  the  veal,  and  add  one  chopped  onion,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  tablespoonful  of  thickening,  one  teacupful  of  milk,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Cook  the  mixture  for  twenty  minutes  longer,  then  turn  it  into  a  shallow 
dish,  put  a  breakfast  cupful  of  oysters  over  the  top,  dredge  in  some  pepper,  salt  and 
flour,  and  cover  the  pie  with  a  common  pie-crust.  Bake  the  pie  for  about  half  an  hour, 
and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

Quenelles  of  Veal. 

Trim  off  the  fat  from  one  pound  of  veal,  chop,  place  it  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it. 
Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  of  milk 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  smooth,  then  leave  until  cool.  Stir  the  pounded  veal  and 
breadcrumbs  well  together,  season  with  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  one-half  pint  of  white  sauce,  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs — one  at  a  time — and  then  the  well-beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Melt  a  lump 
of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  mould  the  mixture  into  quenelles  with  two  tablespoons,  which 


VEAL.  259 

should  be  dipped  in  hot  water  each  time  a  quenelle  is  moulded.  Slip  the  quenelles 
off  the  spoons  into  the  fryingpan,  and  when  all  are  finished  cover  them  with  boiling- 
white  stock  and  cook  them  for  twenty  minutes.  Prepare  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes 
on  a  hot  dish.  When  cooked  drain  the  quenelles,  put  them  on  the  border,  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  bechamel  sauce  on  each,  pour  a  quantity  of  bechamel  sauce  in  the 
center  of  the  dish,  and  serve  the  quenelles  at  once. 

Veal  Rissoles. 

Mince  fine  one  pound  of  veal  and  one-fourth  pound  of  suet.  Soak  two  pounds 
of  breadcrumbs  in  a  small  quantity  of  milk  till  soft,  mix  them  with  the  veal  and  suet, 
season  with  a  little  pounded  mace,  pepper  and  salt,  and  bind  with  the  beaten  yolks  of 
a  couple  of  eggs.  Mould  the  mixture  into  small  balls,  brush  them  over  with  clarified 
butter  and  cover  them  thickly  with  breadcrumbs.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  into  a  frying- 
pan  and  melt  it;  then  put  in  the  rissoles  and  fry  them  till  well  browned  all  over. 
Drain  the  rissoles,  place  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  brown  gravy. 

Rolled  Veal. 

Bone  a  loin  of  veal  and  trim  it  neatly.  Prepare  a  stuffing  with  finely-minced  ba- 
con and  breadcrumbs,  seasoning  them  with  grated  lemon  peel,  sweet  herbs,  pounded 
mace,  salt  and  pepper  and  cayenne  pepper,  and  binding  it  all  with  beaten  egg.  Spread 
the  mixture  over  the  veal,  roll  it  up,  bind  it  tightly  to  keep  it  in  shape,  place  it  in  a 
stewpan,  lay  a  few  slices  of  fat  bacon  on  the  top,  cover  it  with  nicely-flavored  stock, 
and  stew  it  gently  for  four  hours.  When  cooked  remove  the  veal  from  the  fire  and 
allow  it  to  partly  cool  in  the  stock;  then  drain  it,  put  it  between  two  dishes,  with  a 
weight  on  the  top,  and  leave  till  cold.  Remove  the  bindings  and  brush  it  over  with 
melted  glaze.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  place  the  veal  on,  garnish  with  pars- 
ley, and  serve. 

Roasted  Round  of  Veal. 

Cut  a  slice  of  veal  out  of  the  largest  part  of  the  leg,  remove  the  center  bone,  and 
fill  the  cavity  with  bread  stuffing.  Wrap  the  meat  in  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper, 
arrange  it  in  the  pan  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  it  frequently.  Half  an  hour 
before  the  fillet  is  done,  remove  the  paper,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it,  and  allow  it  to 
brown  nicely.  When  cooked,  remove  the  meat  from  the  oven,  glaze  it,  place  it  on  a 
hot  dish,  pour  a  little  brown  gravy  over,  and  serve  with  a  separate  dish  of  vegetables. 

Veal  Sausages. 

Chop  two  pounds  or  so  of  veal  very  fine,  carefully  removing  from  it  all  skin 
and  sinew,  mix  with  it  one  pound  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  and  season  well  with 


260  VEAL. 

salt,   pepper,   chopped  parsley,  thyme   and  marjoram.     Place   the  mixture   in  well- 
cleaned  skins  and  tie  them  at  intervals  with  twine. 


Scalloped  Veal. 


Mince  a  quantity  of  cold  roasted  veal,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated 
nutmeg,  moisten  it  well  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  place  it  in  a  saucepan 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Fill  some  scallop  shells  with  the  veal 
mixture,  cover  them  over  with  grated  breadcrumbs,  put  a  few  small  bits  of  butter  in 
each,  and  brown  them  in  the  oven  or  under  a  salamander.  Place  the  shells  on  a 
folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  laid  on  a  dish,  and  serve  them. 

Roasted  Shoulder  of  Veal. 

Remove  the  knuckle  from  a  shoulder  of  veal  and  roast  the  fillet,  basting  it  often. 
When  cooked  place  the  veal  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve 
with  a  sauceboatful  of  oyster  sauce. 

Spiced  Veal. 

Cut  some  cold  lean  veal,  either  fried  or  baked,  into  pieces  about  one  inch 
square.  Pour  on  sufficient  scalding-hot  vinegar  to  cover,  adding  to  each  pint  of 
the  same  one  dozen  whole  cloves,  one-half  stick  of  cinnamon,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  a  small  red  pepper  or  a  dozen  peppercorns.  When  the  vinegar  is  hot  pour 
it  and  the  spices  over  the  pieces  of  veal  and  allow  them  to  stand  in  the  pickle  for 
at  least  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  then  ready  for  use  and  is  excellent  when  served  for 
cold  luncheon  or  supper. 

Broiled  Veal  Steak. 

Grease  a  gridiron  well,  put  a  steak  of  veal  on  it  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turn- 
ing now  and  then.  Chop  fine  four  or  five  small  fresh  onions,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  little  tomato  catsup,  a  small  quantity  of  thyme  and  one  ounce  of  butter; 
fry  them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  in  one  teacupful  of  broth  and  boil  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  When  cooked  and  nicely  browned  put  the  veal  stock  on  a  hot  dish 
with  a  lump  of  butter  on  it.  Stir  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  into  the  gravy,  color  it 
with  a  little  browning,  pour  in  a  few  drops  of  wine  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
boiling  fast  Pour  the  gravy  over  the  veal,  and  serve  with  a  dish  of  spinach  or 
sorrel. 

Stewed  Veal. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  browned  and  well  mixed;  then  put  in  the  veal,  cut  into  pieces, 
and  fry  a  little.  Put  in  some  young  onion,  button  mushrooms,  peas,  carrots,  a  bunch 
of  thyme  and  some  laurel  leaves,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  moisten  the  whole 


VEAL.  261 

with  a  little  warm  water.     Boil  the  veal  gently  until  cooked,  then  turn  the  stew  onto  a 
hot  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

Stewed  Veal,  Bourgeoise. 

Cook  in  one  ounce  of  warm  butter  three  pounds  of  lean  veal  cut  in  pieces  and  six 
small  onions.  After  cooking  for  ten  minutes  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  mois- 
ten with  one  quart  of  white  broth.  Stir  well  and  season  with  one  heaping  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  one-half  wineglassful  of  red  wine.  Add  two 
or  three  carrots  cut  into  small  squares  one  ounce  of  salt  pork  cut  up  into  pieces, 
and  a  garnished  bouquet.  Cook  for  forty  minutes  longer,  remove  the  bouquet,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Stewed  Breast  of  Veal. 

Blanch  a  breast  of  veal,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two 
onions  each  stuck  with  two  or  three  cloves,  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  a  blade  of  mace, 
three  ounces  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Fry  the  veal  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  take  color,  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  hot  water  and  stew 
it  gently  until  tender.  When  cooked  remove  the  long  bones  from  the  veal  and  strain 
the  liquor.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  stewpan  and 
mix  them  over  the  fire,  then  stir  in  the  veal  stock,  add  one  teacupful  of  thick  cream, 
and  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  then  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of 
the  fire  and  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  some 
oysters  that  have  been  blanched  in  their  own  liquor.  Place  the  veal  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  it  with  fried  oysters  and  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Breast  of  Veal,  Nantaise. 

Trim  three  pounds  of  the  breast  of  veal,  make  a  few  incisions  on  the  top,  and  tie 
it  round  tightly  with  string.  Place  it  in  a  deep  sautepan  with  a  piece  of  pork  skin 
cut  up,  a  carrot  and  a  sliced  onion,  and  cover  with  buttered  paper;  when  it  begins  to 
color  after  cooking  five  minutes  or  so,  moisten  it  gently  with  one  pint  of  water  or 
broth.  Baste  as  often  as  possible,  and  allow  it  to  cook  for  one  hour.  Place  it  on  a 
dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  garnish  with  six  stuffed  lettuce  heads  and  a  few  croutons 
of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Breast  of  Veal  with  Turnips. 

Cut  half  of  a  breast  of  veal  into  small  pieces.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes;  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  veal  and  fry  them  until  the  meat  has  well  set. 
Remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  drain  off  the  fat,  pour  in  by  degrees  sufficient 
broth  and  white  wine  mixed  in  equal  quantities  to  cover  the  meat,  also  put  in  a  large 


262  VEAL. 

onion  stuck  with  three  or  four  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  a  small  quantity  of 
pepper.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  until  the  liquor  commences  to  boil,  then 
move  it  to  the  side,  and  allow  it  to  simmer.  Peel  some  turnips,  cut  them  into  the 
shape  of  balls  with  a  vegetable  cutter,  and  blanch  them  for  a  few  minutes;  then  drain, 
place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  or  lard,  and  fry  them  until  lightly 
colored,  seasoning  with  a  little  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  sugar.  Drain  all  the  fat  from 
the  turnips,  put  them  in  with  the  meat  and  finish  the  cooking.  When  cooked  skim 
the  fat  off  the  stew,  turn  it  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Fillet  of  Veal. 

Bone  a  fillet  of  veal,  fill  the  cavity  with  veal  stuffing,  then  lard  the  fillet  and  half 
roast  it;  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two  quarts  of  white  stock,  one  teaspoonful  of 
mushroom  catsup,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  pickle.  Let  it  simmer  slowly  until 
cooked.  Strain  the  gravy,  then  thicken  it  with  butter  rolled  in  flour,  add  a  few 
pickled  mushrooms  and  a  little  salt  and  cayenne,  and  pour  it  over  the  boiling  veal  on 
the  dish.  Have  in  readiness  two  or  three  dozen  forcemeat  balls  to  put  round  and  on 
top  of  it,  place  some  slices  of  lemon  round,  and  serve  the  dish. 

Stewed   Kernel   of  Veal. 

Saw  the  knuckle  off  a  leg  of  veal,  lay  the  fillet  on  the  table,  cut  through  the 
bone  in  the  center  under  the  udder  until  the  skin  is  cut  through,  then  remove  the 
bone  and  lay  out  the  meat.  There  will  be  separate  pieces  of  meat,  the  largest  of 
which  is  the  kernel.  Cut  it  out  by  pressing  the  hand  upon  it,  and  then  with  a  sharp 
knife  cut  down  close  to  the  skin  until  it  comes  to  the  udder  ;  then  take  the  piece  of 
meat  out,  and  lay  it  on  the  table,  the  best  side  down  and  beat  it  well.  Trim  this 
meat  neatly,  and  lard  it  with  thin  strips  of  fat  bacon.  Cut  off  the  udder  and  secure 
it  to  the  side  of  the  kernel.  Line  a  flat  stewpan  with  pieces  of  bacon  and  two  sliced 
onions,  put  in  the  veal  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  two  bay  leaves,  and  pour 
in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  clear  broth,  Place  the  stewpan  in  a  moderate  oven, 
and  cook  the  contents  for  three  hours,  basting  the  meat  occasionally  with  some  of 
its  own  cooking  liquor.  Should  all  the  moisture  become  absorbed,  a  small  quantity 
of  water  may  be  added.  When  cooked  take  the  veal  out  of  the  stewpan,  glaze  it 
and  brown  it  lightly  with  a  salamander.  Lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  keep  it  hot 
while  the  sauce  is  being  prepared.  Strain  the  cooking  gravy  through  a  fine  hair 
sieve  into  a  small  saucepan,  season  it  with  pepper,  and  boil  it  up.  Then  pour  the 
gravy  over  the  kernel,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Knuckle  of  Veal. 

Take  a  knuckle  of  veal,  break  the  bone  well  in  two  or  three  places,  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  eight  or  ten  shallots,  a  small  quantity  of  whole 


VEAL.  263 

black  pepper,  a  blade  or  two  of  mace  and  salt  to  taste,  pour  over  it  five  pints  of 
water,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to  boil  gently  until  the  water  is  reduced  to  two 
and  one-half  pints.  Then  take  out  the  meat,  strain  the  gravy,  mix  in  with  it  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  and  cook  it  for  ten  minutes, 
stirring  now  and  then.  Then  put  back  into  the  gravy  the  best  part  of  the  meat  cut 
nicely  from  the  bone,  add  a  very  small  quantity  of  cayenne,  lemon  juice  to  taste,  and 
two  wineglassfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  and  allow  all  to  get  quite  hot.  Garnish  with 
sippets  of  toast,  slices  of  lemon,  and  piles  of  forcemeat  balls,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Loin   of  Veal. 

The  chump  end  of  a  loin  of  veal  is  the  best  part  to  stew.  When  well  floured, 
place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  that  has  been  browned  over  the  fire,  and 
brown  the  veal  in  it ;  when  of  a  good  color,  pour  in  enough  good  veal  broth  to  half 
cover  it,  put  in  a  couple  of  carrots,  cut  in  pieces  an  onion,  a  small  sprig  of  parsley, 
and  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  stew  gently  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  When 
half  done,  turn  it,  and  when  quite  done,  take  it  out.  Thicken  the  broth,  season  it  to 
taste,  pour  over  the  veal,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Veal,  Marengo. 

Cut  three  pounds  of  lean  veal  into  pieces  and  cook  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one 
gill  of  oil,  a  cut  up  onion  or  two  shallots  and  two  or  three  ounces  of  salt  pork,  also 
cut  in  pieces.  Toss  them  occasionally,  and  when  well  browned,  which  should  take 
about  ten  minutes,  dredge  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  well.  Moisten 
with  one  quart  of  white  broth  and  one  gill  of  tomato  sauce  and  season  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  adding  a  crushed  clove  of  garlic  and 
a  garnished  bouquet.  Cook  for  forty  minutes  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread 
for  garnish  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over. 

Stewed  Neck  of  Veal. 

Trim  a  neck  of  veal,  soak  it  in  tepid  water  for  a  short  time,  then  put  it  in  boil- 
ing water  and  leave  it  for  ten  minutes.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan 
and  add  two  ounces  of  flour  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed ;  then  put  in  the 
veal,  two  or  three  onions,  carrots  and  parsnips,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  clove  of  garlic, 
two  or  three  cloves,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  a  little  water.  Cook 
the  meat  gently  until  tender,  then  take  it  out  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Boil  the 
cooking  liquor  until  well  reduced,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Mix  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  gherkins  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  with  the  sauce,  and 
serve  in  a  sauceboat  with  the  veal. 


264  VEAL. 

Stewed  Veal,  Provincial. 

Cut  into  pieces  three  pounds  of  lean  veal  from  the  breast  or  shoulder-blade  and  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil  and  one 
chopped  onion.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then;  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  flour,  stir  again  and  moisten  with  one  quart  of  white  broth.  Season  with  one 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  add  half  a  dozen  minced 
mushrooms,  three  crushed  cloves  of  garlic  and  a  bunch  of  garnished  parsley.  Cook 
for  forty  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  sprinkled 
over  it. 

Stewed  Veal,  Solferine. 

Cook  three  pounds  or  so  of  veal  cut  into  pieces  from  the  breast  or  shoulder  in 
one  ounce  of  butter  with  half  a  dozen  small  young  onions.  When  cooked  for  ten 
minutes  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  moisten  with  one  quart  of  white  broth, 
and  one  gill  of  tomato  sauce,  seasoning  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Stir  together  well  until  it  reaches  the  boiling  point,  then  add 
two  turnips  and  two  or  three  carrots  cut  out  into  various  shapes  with  a  vegetable 
scoop,  and  a  garnished  bouquet.  Cook  for  forty  minutes  longer,  and  serve.  Any  kind 
of  vegetables  in  season  may  be  added. 

Stewed  Veal  with  Oyster  Plant. 

Prepare  and  cook  the  same  as  for  stewed  veal  bourgeoise,  putting  in  place  of  the 
garnishing  one  bunch  of  well  cleaned  raw  oyster  plant  cut  into  pieces  forty  minutes 
prior  to  serving. 

How  to   Prepare  Sweetbreads. 

Leave  a  dozen  sweetbreads  in  cold  water  for  two  hours  to  disgorge,  then  change 
the  water  and  boil  them  for  a  few  moments  on  a  hot  fire  ;•  take  them  off  and  refresh 
in  cold  water ;  cut  away  all  the  windpipes  and  fibrous  nerves  and  then  prepare  them 
as  required  in  the  various  recipes. 

Aiguillettes  of  Sweetbreads. 

Boil  a  sufficient  number  of  throat  sweetbreads  in  water  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  off 
the  water  and  add  some  onion,  carrot  and  turnip,  all  sliced,  bay  leaves,  and  enough 
stock  or  broth.  Let  all  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  until  the  sweetbreads  are  quite 
firm;  then  take  out  and  lay  on  a  clean  cloth.  Cut  them  into  pieces  about  the  size  of 
a  quarter,  with  a  long,  round  cutter,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Then  chop 
some  shallots  very  fine,  and  fry  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter  until  they  are 
quite  white;  add  some  white  sauce  and  a  little  white  stock.  Reduce  it  slowly  until 
thickish,  when  the  yolks  of  some  eggs  may  be  beaten  in  and  the  juice  of  some  lemon. 


VEAL.  265 

Do  not  let  it  boil  after  the  yolks  are  added,  but  remove  to  one  side  of  the  stove. 
Dip  the  pieces  of  sweetbread  into  the  sauce,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  until  they  are 
cold.  Run  the  skewers  through  the  centers  of  the  pieces,  two  on  a  skewer.  Put 
plenty  of  egg  and  breadcrumb  on  them  and  fry  in  hot  lard,  serving  very  hot  on  a 
folded  napkin  or  dish-paper. 

Attereaux  of  Sweetbreads. 

Boil  two  large  sweetbreads  until  they  are  done;  let  them  cool  and  divide  them 
into  slices.  Sprinkle  over  them  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  arrange  them  round  the 
bottom  of  a  sautepan  in  which  some  butter  has  been  spread.  Fry  over  a  sharp  fire; 
take  them  out  and  place  them  on  a  slab  to  cool,  with  a  light  weight  on  top  to  make 
them  flat.  When  these  slices  are  quite  cold,  cut  them  round  with  a  cutter,  and  put 
them  into  a  basin  with  an  equal  quantity  of  similar  rounds  of  boiled  tongues  and 
mushrooms,  all  cut  with  the  same  cutter  so  as  to  be  exactly  the  same  size  as  the 
rounds  of  sweetbreads.  Pour  over  them  in  the  basin  a  little  well  reduced  brown  sauce, 
roll  them  in  this  sauce,  and  then  string  them  alternately  on  little  wooden  skewers. 
Have  ready  some  villeroy  sauce,  made  by  beating  some  yolks  of  eggs  up  in  a  mortar 
with  butter  divided  into  little  pieces;  add  this  to  the  usual  white  sauce,  reduced  and 
made  consistent,  and  boil  up.  Dip  the  attereaux  in  the  sauce  made  at  the  same  time 
as  they  are  preparing,  and  arrange  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  at  a  little  distance  from 
each  other  to  let  the  sauce  cool.  •  Then  take  them  out,  one  by  one,  trim  off  the  super- 
fluous sauce,  and  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs;  dip  into  beaten  egg,  and  again  roll  in 
breadcrumbs;  then  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat  until  of  a  good  color.  Drain,  remove 
the  wooden  skewer,  place  them  on  ornamental  metal  attelettes,  and  dish  on  a  folded 
napkin.  No  sauce  is  required  in  serving  these. 

Braised  Sweetbreads. 

Take  six  blanched  heart  sweetbreads,  lard  the  upper  parts  slightly,  and  place 
them  in  a  braisingpan  with  some  slices  of  fat  pork;  add  half  of  a  sliced  carrot,  half  of 
a  sliced  onion,  and  a  garnished  bunch  of  parsley.  Sprinkle  with  a  little  salt,  and 
cover  with  buttered  paper.  Cook  them  to  a  golden  color  on  the  fire,  and  moisten 
with  one-half  pint  of  strong  white  broth;  place  the  pan  in  the  oven,  and  bake  the 
sweetbreads  for  forty  minutes,  basting  occasionally  with  the  gravy,  lifting  the  buttered 
paper,  and  replacing  it  each  time  in  the  same  position.  The  sweetbreads  will  now  be 
ready  to  serve  with  any  kind  of  sauce  that  may  be  desired. 

Braised  Sweetbreads,  Montglas. 

Place  half  a  dozen  small  sweetbreads  in  an  equal  number  of  small  buttered 
paper  cases,  having  cooked  fine  herbs  strewn  over  the  bottom.  Heat  it  in  the 


266  VEAL. 

oven  for  five  minutes,  then  pour  one  tablespoonful  of  hot  montglas  over  each  and 
serve  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Braised  Sweetbreads,  Pompadour. 

Braise  six  sweetbreads,  pour  one-half  pint  of  hot  bernaise  sauce  on  a  dish 
and  sprinkle  with  two  truffles  cut  into  small  pieces,  place  six  artichoke  bottoms 
over  the  sauce,  place  a  sweetbread  on  each  with  a  truffle  on  top,  and  serve  at  once. 

Broiled  Sweetbreads,  Colbert. 

Cut  into  halves  three  fine  blanched  sweetbreads,  season  with  one  pinch  of 
salt  and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  pour  over  one  tablespoonful  of  oil;  stir 
together  well  and  broil  them  over  a  sharp  fire  for  five  minutes  on  each  side. 
Dress  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  one  pint  of  hot  colbert  sauce  poured  over. 

Broiled  Sweetbreads,  Maitre  d' Hotel. 

Split  the  sweetbreads  into  flat  slices,  dust  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  rub 
them  well  over  with  flour.  Broil  the  sweetbreads  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  often 
and  basting  with  warmed  butter.  Place  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  in  a  saucepan, 
with  one  tablespoonful  each  of  water  and  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon 
and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Place  the  sweetbreads  on  a  hot  dish  and  garnish  them 
with  slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Collops  of  Sweetbreads  with  Green   Peas. 

Soak  four  large  sweetbreads  in  warm  water  to  remove  all  the  blood,  then  blanch 
them  till  firm.  Cut  the  sweetbreads  into  large  collops,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with 
some  butter  and  fry  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  when  done  on  one  side.  When  cooked 
drain  the  butter  off  the  sweetbreads,  put  a  little  glaze  in  the  pan  and  stir  them  until 
well  glazed.  Arrange  the  collops  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  fill  the  center  with  boiled 
green  peas,  and  serve. 

Creamed  Sweetbreads. 

Wash  and  boil  the  required  number  of  sweetbreads  for  twenty  minutes  or  so,  then 
drain  and  chop  them  into  small  pieces;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  some  white 
sauce  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes.  Toast  some  slices  of  bread,  remove  the  crusts,  but- 
ter the  slices,  cut  them  into  halves  or  quarters  and  place  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour 
the  creamed  sweetbreads  over  the  toast,  and  serve  hot. 

Sweetbread  Cromeskies. 

Boil  an  udder  of  veal  in  a  stockpot,  and  when  done  leave  it  until  cool,  then 
trim  and  cut  into  thin  slices  the  whole  length  of  the  piece.  Blanch  some  throat 


VEAL.  267 

sweetbreads,  trim  and  cut  them  into  small  square  pieces;  cut  an  equal  quantity  of 
mushrooms  in  the  same  way  and  stir  them  together  in  some  stiffly-reduced  allemande 
sauce.  When  cold,  place  portions  of  the  sweetbread  mixture  on  slices  of  udder, 
wrap  the  udder  round  them  and  roll  them  into  the  shape  of  corks.  Dip  the  crome- 
skies  into  frying-batter  and  fry  them  in  a  deep  pan  in  plenty  of  fat  until  they  are  crisp 
and  lightly  browned.  Drain  the  cromeskies,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  them 
nicely  all  round  with  fried  parsley  and  serve. 

Royal  Sweetbread  Croquettes. 

Put  three  small  or  two  large  sweetbreads  into  boiling  water  for  five  minutes. 
Chop  them  finely  with  one  boiled  boned  chicken,  adding  one  teaspoonful  of  onion 
juice,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  one  teaspoonful  of  mace.  Put  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  one  large  tablespoonful  of  flour;  when  it 
bubbles  add  one  pint  of  cream,  the  chopped  mixture,  and  stir  all  together  thoroughly 
until  well  heated.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  set  on 
one  side  to  cool.  Roll  the  mixture  into  shapes  and  dip  them  into  beaten  eggs  and 
then  into  fine  cracker-crumbs.  Let  the  croquettes  stand  until  dry,  dip  them  again  in 
egg  and  finally  in  breadcrumbs.  All  the  crumbs  should  first  be  salted  and  peppered. 
Fry  quickly  in  boiling  fat  and  serve. 

Curried  Sweetbreads. 

Take  two  calf's  sweetbreads  and  cut  them  into  pieces  about  two  inches  square. 
Pour  into  a  pan  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  good  vealstock,  put  it  over  the  fire  and 
then  throw  in  an  onion  sliced  and  fried,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  curry-powder  and 
vinegar,  salt  to  taste,  and  one  ounce  of  butter  with  sufficient  flour  rubbed  into  it  to 
thicken  the  gravy;  stir  until  it  boils,  then  put  in  the  sweetbreads  and  let  them  sim- 
mer for  half  an  hour  longer. 

Sweetbread  Cutlets. 

Cut  some  cold  cooked  sweetbreads  into  round  pieces,  brush  them  over  with 
beaten  egg,  then  coat  well  with  finely-grated  breadcrumb  that  has  been  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  dried  parsley.  Place  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan, 
and  when  it  has  melted  put  in  the  cutlets  and  fry  them  until  they  are  nicely  browned. 
Arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  with  a  small  crouton  of  fried  bread  between  each, 
pour  a  small  quantity  of  thick  brown  gravy  in  the  center,  and  serve. 


Sweetbreads,  English  Style. 


Wash  the  sweetbreads  and  parboil  them;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire 
with  barely  sufficient  white  stock  to  cover,  and  let  them  stew  gently  for  about  twenty- 


268  VEAL. 

five  minutes.  Add  a  seasoning  of  white  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  quantity  of  mace, 
thicken  the  gravy  with  butter  and  flour  and  add  a  little  cream  and  cucumber  catsup. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  the  sweetbreads,  and  serve  young  peas  or  French  beans  with  them. 

Sweetbreads,  Financiere. 

Wash  and  blanch  the  sweetbreads,  then  drain  and  press  them  between  two  plates 
until  they  are  cold;  trim  and  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt;  butter  the  bottom  of 
a  sautepan,  put  in  the  sweetbreads  and  fry  until  they  are  done  on  both  sides,  then 
pour  in  one  teacupful  of  clear  broth  and  reduce  that  also  to  a  glaze.  When  well 
glazed  put  the  sweetbreads  on  a  dish  and  keep  them  hot  while  the  following  garnish 
is  being  prepared.  Pour  one-half  pint  of  wine  in  the  stewpan  that  the  sweetbreads 
were  cooked  in,  and  when  boiling  strain  the  wine  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  skim  off 
the  fat  and  boil  it  until  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Peel  four  or  five  raw 
truffles,  cut  them  in  quarters,  place  them  in  the  wine  with  one  teacupful  of  brown 
sauce,  and  boil  for  five  minutes.  Put  eighteen  or  twenty  button  mushrooms  in  the 
sauce,  with  the  same  quantity  of  small  poached  quenelles  and  sprinkle  them  with  a 
little  cayenne  pepper.  Pour  the  garnish  all  round  the  sweetbreads,  and  serve  them 
while  very  hot. 

Fricandeau  of  Sweetbreads. 

Skin  and  wash  some  sweetbreads,  and  lard  them  with  well-seasoned  bacon.  Line 
a  braisingpan  with  slices  of  bacon  and  beef.  Put  in  some  slices  of  onion,  carrots, 
thyme,  bay  leaves,  and  a  seasoning  of  silt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  and  mixed  spices; 
then  put  in  the  sweetbreads,  cover  them  well  with  some  of  the  same  seasoning,  and 
moisten  with  a  little  broth.  Fix  the  lid  on  tightly;  solder  the  edges  with  hot  water 
paste,  so  that  no  air  can  be  admitted,  place  some  live  embers  on  the  lid,  place  the 
pan  over  a  slow  fire,  and  cook  the  contents  for  forty-five  minutes.  When  cooked, 
pour  the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  add  one  pinch  of  sugar  to  it,  and  boil  until 
reduced.  Glaze  the  sweetbreads  with  the  reduced  sauce.  Put  the  sweetbreads  on  a 
puree  of  chicory  that  has  been  placed  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  stewed  cucumbers, 
and  serve. 

Fried  Sweetbreads  with   Perigueux  Sauce. 

Boil  the  sweetbreads,  leave  until  cold,  then  cut  them  into  slices.  Melt  a  small 
quantity  of  butter  in  a  flat  stewpan,  put  in  the  slices  of  sweetbreads,  sprinkle  over  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry  them  on  both  sides,  add  one-half  pound  of  truffles  cut 
in  small  pieces  and  a  little  white  wine.  Place  the  lid  on  the  stewpan,  cook  the  con- 
tents till  the  moisture  has  reduced  to  a  glaze,  then  pour  in  a  little  brown  sauce  and 
put  the  mixture  into  a  bain-marie.  Butter  a  border  mould,  fill  it  with  veal  quenelle 
forcemeat,  and  poach  it  in  a  bain-marie.  When  firm  turn  the  forcemeat  out  of  the 
mould  on  to  a  hot  dish,  put  a  garnishing  in  the  center,  and  serve. 


VEAL.  269 

Sweetbreads  in   Cases. 

Boil  the  sweetbreads,  then  drain  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  place  them  in 
some  cream  sauce,  and  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt.  Fill  some  paper  cases  with 
the  above  mixture,  cover  them  with  breadcrumbs,  put  one  tablespoonful  of  warmed 
butter  in  each,  and  place  them  in  the  oven.  When  the  mixture  is  nicely  browned  on 
the  top,  remove  the  cases  from  the  oven,  arrange  them  on  a  folded  napkin  laid  on  a 
dish,  and  serve. 

Sweetbreads  in   Shells. 

Cut  four  blanched  sweetbreads  into  small  slices,  and  stew  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  one-half  ounce  of  butter,  one-half  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  add  one  gill  of 
veloute  sauce,  six  minced  mushrooms  and  two  truffles,  also  finely  chopped.  Season 
with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  finish  by  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  one- 
half  ounce  of  butter.  Fill  eight  table  shells  with  this,  sprinkle  them  with  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  pour  over  a  few  drops  of  clarified  butter,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  to 
brown  slightly  for  six  minutes  longer.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  an  ornamental  paper 
over,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Sweetbread  in   White   Sauce. 

Put  a  sweetbread  in  a  bowl  and  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  let  it  steep  for  an 
hour  or  two.  Drain  the  sweetbread,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  cold  water 
to  cover,  and  stand  it  over  the  fire.  When  the  water  boils  move  the  saucepan  a  little 
off  the  fire  so  that  the  sweetbread  may  cook  slowly  for  about  thirty  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  plunge  the  sweetbread  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  then  drain  it, 
trim  off  the  fat,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put  one-third  of  a  tablespoonful  of 
arrowroot  into  a  basin,  and  mix  it  smoothly  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  ;  turn 
it  into  the  saucepan,  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  put  in  the  sweetbread,  and 
season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer  it  gently  at  the  edge  of  the  fire  for 
ten  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that  time  turn  the  sweetbread  and  sauce  onto  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  that  have  been  fried  brown  in  butter,  or 
sippets  of  toast,  and  serve. 

Larded  Sweetbreads. 

Partially  boil  the  sweetbreads,  then  drain  and  leave  them  until  cold.  Lard  the 
sweetbreads  with  strips  of  bacon  and  lemon  peel,  putting  the  bacon  in  the  center  and 
the  peel  down  the  sides.  Lay  them  in  a  stewpan  with  brown  gravy  to  a  little  more 
than  half  their  height,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  for  an  hour.  Arrange  the  sweet- 


270  VEAL. 

breads  on  a  hot  dish,  thicken  the  gravy  with  a  little  flour,  season  it  to  the  taste  with 
lemon  juice  and  catsup,  and  pour  it  over  the  sweetbreads.  They  should  be  served 
while  very  hot. 

Sweetbreads,  Montebello. 

Prepare  some  sweetbreads  the  same  as  sweetbreads  Waldorf ;  take  them  from 
under  the  weight  and  trim  them  into  ovals  ;  cover  them  all  with  a  preparation  made 
of  other  sweetbreads  minced  into  very  small  dice  with  mushrooms  of  the  same  size 
mingled  with  cream  sauce,  salt  and  pepper.  Form  this  over  the  ovals  in  a  dome- 
shape  and  cover  with  chicken  forcemeat,  containing  very  finely  shredded  red  beef 
tongue.  Dress  the  ovals  on  a  dish  covered  with  Montebello  sauce,  made  by  mixing 
tomato  and  Bearnaise  sauce  together. 


Sweetbreads,  Parisian  Style. 


Wash  four  sweetbreads  and  boil  them  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes,  then 
drain  and  soak  them  in  cold  water.  Lard  two  of  the  sweetbreads  with  bacon,  and 
stud  the  other  two  with  fillets  of  raw  truffles,  pointed  at  one  end.  Put  some  slices  of 
onions,  carrots  and  turnips  in  a  stewpan  with  some  thin  rashers  of  bacon,  put  in  the 
sweetbreads,  season  with  a  little  salt,  and  pour  in  some  good  broth  to  about  three- 
fourths  their  height.  Place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  the  sweetbreads,  and  boil 
them  gently  till  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one-third,  then  place  the  lid  on  the  stewpan 
with  some  hot  ashes  on  it  and  finish  cooking  them.  Ornament  a  border  mould  with 
some  truffles,  fill  it  with  veal  forcemeat  and  poach  it  in  the  bain-marie.  When  cooked 
turn  the  border  of  forcemeat  onto  a  hot  dish,  place  a  piece  of  fried  bread  in  the 
center  masked  with  forcemeat,  and  fill  up  the  hollow  with  cooked  sliced  truffles  and 
mushrooms.  Brush  the  sweetbreads  over  with  melted  glaze,  and  stand  them  on  the 
border  resting  them  on  the  block  of  bread.  Place  three  button-mushrooms  and  a 
truffle  between  each  sweetbread,  garnish  an  attelette  skewer  with  a  truffle  and  a  cocks- 
comb, and  fix  it  in  the  top  of  the  bread  support ;  pour  round  the  dish  a  small  quantity 
of  brown  sauce  that  has  been  reduced  in  a  little  white  wine,  trimmings  of  mushrooms 
and  truffles.  Serve  the  sweetbread  with  a  sauceboatful  of  the  same  sauce. 

Sweetbread  and  Mushroom   Patties. 

Soak  a  sweetbread  in  cold  water,  blanch  it  in  boiling  water,  take  it  out,  drain, 
trim,  remove  the  skin,  fat  and  gristle.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  and  pour  on  sufficient 
water  to  cover;  and  boil  for  about  fifty  minutes,  then  remove  it,  drain,  and  cut  up  into 
pieces  about  one-half  an  inch  thick.  Wash  thoroughly  eight  or  ten  large  peeled 
mushrooms,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Add  a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  pepper,  cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  cook  slowly  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Put  one  ounce  each  of  butter  and 
flour  into  the  saucepan,  mix  together  thoroughly,  pour  in  one  teacupful  of  rich  stock 


VEAL.  271 

and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  continually.  Then  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  also  the  mushrooms  and  sweetbread.  Sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper  to  taste 
and  turn  the  mixture  out  to  cool.  Have  ready  a  dozen  small  patty  pans  well  buttered 
and  lined  with  a  rich  puff  paste,  fill  them  with  the  sweetbread  mixture,  cover  with 
more  of  the  paste,  brush  over  the  top  with  a  well  beaten  egg,  put  them  into  a  mod- 
erate oven,  and  bake  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes  ;  then  remove,  and  serve  with- 
out delay. 

Sweetbread  Pie,  Financiere. 

Butter  a  pie  mould  and  line  it  with  short  paste.  Mix  some  sweet  herbs  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  raw  chicken  forcemeat  and  put  a  layer  of  it  at  the  bottom;  fill 
the  pie  with  collops  of  calf's  or  lamb's  sweetbreads  that  have  been  fried  with  herbs, 
put  in  another  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  lay  a  flat  of  paste  on  the  top,  moisten  the  edges 
and  press  them  together,  trimming  round  evenly;  brush  the  top  over  with  a  paste 
brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  paper  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  in  a  moderate  oven.  Shape  out  of  some  veal  forcemeat  fifteen  quenelles  and 
poach  them  in  salted  water.  Lard  a  lamb's  sweetbread,  braise  and  glaze  it  with  some 
fowls'  livers,  truffles,  cockscombs  and  button  mushrooms.  Prepare  a  garnishing. 
When  cooked  take  the  pie  out  of  the  oven,  take  off  the  top  round  of  paste  and  the 
top  layer  of  forcemeat,  slip  the  pie  onto  a  hot  dish  and  pour  into  it  some  brown 
sauce  that  has  been  reduced  with  a  little  Madeira.  Arrange  the  garnishing  in  the 
center,  placing  the  sweetbread  on  the  top,  put  the  quenelles  on  the  rim,  and  serve  the 
pie  while  hot  with  a  sauceboatful  of  Madeira  sauce. 

Sweetbreads,  Piedmontese. 

Boil  two  or  three  sweetbreads,  drain  and  let  them  get  cold,  then  cut  them  into 
slices  broadwise.  Season  the  slices  of  sweetbread,  place  them  in  a  sautepan  with 
some  clarified  butter  and  fry  until  they  are  slightly  browned  on  both  sides.  Drain 
the  butter  off  the  sweetbreads,  pour  in  a  little  white  wine  and  boil  it  till  reduced;  add 
a  small  quantity  of  white  sauce,  keep  the  pan  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
put  in  ten  or  a  dozen  thinly  sliced  raw  truffles;  move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the 
fire  and  keep  it  covered.  Boil  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  well-washed  rice,  turn  it 
into  a  buttered  border  mould  and  keep  it  in  a  hot  closet  for  ten  minutes.  When  set 
turn  the  border  of  rice  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sweetbread  mix- 
ture in  the  center,  and  serve  it  while  very  hot. 

Rissoles  of  Sweetbread. 

Wash  and  boil  two  sweetbreads  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes,  drain  and 
leave  them  until  cold.  Cut  the  sweetbreads  into  slices  and  then  into  small  squares. 
Fry  a  chopped  onion  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter,  then  put  in  one-fourth  pound 
of  ham  and  the  same  quantity  of  raw  mushrooms,  all  cut  into  small  pieces.  Fry  the 


272  VEAL. 

above  mixture  until  the  moisture  has  evaporated,  put  in  the  pieces  of  sweetbread, 
season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  stir  them  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  two. 
Pour  in  one-half  teacupful  of  half  reduced  bechamel  sauce,  remove  it  from  the  fire 
and  leave  until  cool.  Roll  one  pound  of  puff  paste  out  onto  a  floured  board  to 
a  thin  square,  divide  the  sweetbread  mixture  into  small  equal  quantities,  put  them  on 
the  paste  a  little  apart  from  each  other,  dampen  the  paste  with  a  paste  brush  dipped 
in  water,  fold  the  edges  over  the  sweetbread  mixture,  pressing  them  down  with  the 
fingers,  then  cut  the  rissoles  with  a  plain  half-moon-shaped  tin  cutter.  Arrange  the 
rissoles  on  a  baking  tin,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg,  sprinkle  with  crushed  ver- 
micelli and  bake.  When  cooked  pile  the  rissoles  on  a  folded  napkin  spread  over  a 
plate,  and  serve. 

Scalloped  Sweetbreads,  Richelieu. 

Take  four  blanched  sweetbreads,  cut  them  into  slices  and  stew  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one-half  of  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine.  Season  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated 
nutmeg.  Cook  for  six  minutes,  moistening  with  one  gill  of  thick  white  sauce,  and 
add  two  sliced  truffles  and  four  sliced  mushrooms.  Fill  six  scallop  shells  with  the 
preparation,  sprinkle  the  tops  over  with  breadcrumbs,  pour  over  all  a  few  drops  of 
clarified  butter  and  brown  slightly  in  the  oven  for  about  five  minutes.  Serve  on  a 
dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Stewed  Sweetbreads,  Catalane. 

Cut  into  slices  four  blanched  sweetbreads,  put  them  in  a  sautepan  with  one-half 
gill  of  sweet  oil,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  two  chopped 
shallots  and  half  of  a  slice  of  green  pepper.  Cook  to  a  golden  color  for  about  six 
minutes  and  add  two  peeled  tomatoes  cut  into  pieces,  one  gill  of  Spanish  sauce  and 
a  crushed  clove  of  garlic.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  longer,  arrange  the  sweetbreads  on 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Timbale  of  Sweetbread. 

Wash  some  sweetbreads,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water  and  a  lump  of 
salt  and  boil  for  ten  minutes;  then  put  them  into  cold  water  and  leave  until  quite 
cold,  then  lard  them  with  thin  strips  of  fat  bacon.  Place  the  sweetbreads  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  some  well-flavored  stock  (which  should  reach  to  a  little  more  than  half  their 
height)  and  stew  them  gently  for  about  an  hour,  basting  frequently.  When  cooked, 
leave  them  until  cold,  then  cut  them  into  thin  slices.  Butter  a  timbale-mould  and 
line  it  with  a  short  paste  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  fill  it  with  alternate 
layers  of  sweetbread,  nicely  flavored  forcemeat  and  mushrooms,  seasoning  between 
each  layer  with  pepper  and  salt.  Strain  the  cooking-liquor  of  the  sweetbreads,  skim 


VEAL.  273 

it  well  and  pour  it  over  the  contents  of  the  mould.  Cover  the  timbale  with  paste  and 
put  it  in  the  oven,  fixing  it  in  position  with  ashes  heaped  up  on  both  sides,  When 
cooked  turn  the  timbale  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  parsley  and 
mushroom  tops,  and  serve. 

Sweetbreads,  Toulouse. 

Steep  the  sweetbreads  until  all  the  blood  is  drawn  out  of  them,  then  blanch  them 
in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes  or  until  they  are  firm.  Drain  the  sweetbreads  and 
leave  them  till  cold,  then  trim  and  lard  them  thickly.  Place  a  layer  of  sliced  onion, 
carrot  and  celery  at  the  bottom  of  a  sautepan,  put  in  the  cutlets  of  sweetbreads  and 
pour  in  a  little  stock,  but  not  sufficient  to  cover  them.  Glaze  the  sweetbreads  in  a 
hot  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes,  basting  them  occasionally  with  their  cooking 
liquor.  Cook  some  asparagus  tops  and  make  a  bed  of  them  on  a  hot  dish.  When 
well  browned  and  glazed  drain  the  sweetbreads  and  pile  them  on  the  asparagus.  Pass 
the  cooking  liquor  through  a  silk  sieve,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  pour  it  over  the  sweet- 
breads, and  serve. 

Sweetbread  Vol-au-Vent,  Financiere. 

Prepare  one  pound  of  puff  paste  and  roll  it  out  to  about  two  and  one-half  inches 
in  thickness.  Cut  a  round  out  of  the  paste  with  a  tin  cutter,  brush  the  round  over 
with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg  without  touching  the  sides,  and  with  a  knife, 
the  point  being  held  inwards  towards  the  center,  make  a  circular  incision  pressing 
the  inner  paste  to  prevent  its  closing  up  again.  Make  a  lid  with  some  of  the  remain- 
ing paste  to  fit  in  the  wall  of  the  vol-au-vent,  brush  the  top  over  with  beaten  egg, 
place  the  paste  on  a  baking-sheet  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Put 
one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
well  mixed,  then  pour  in  gradually  one  pint  of  stock  and  keep  stirring  over  the  fire 
until  boiling.  Put  one  wineglassful  of  sherry,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  ketch- 
up and  a  little  cayenne  pepper  in  the  sauce,  move  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let 
it  simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes  for  the  purpose  of  clarifying  it;  then  skim  it,  put 
in  a  piece  of  glaze,  put  it  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  quickly  for  five  minutes  longer. 
When  the  glaze  has  dissolved,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  another 
saucepan,  put  in  it  two  partially-boiled  calf's  sweetbreads,  three  or  four  cockscombs, 
a  few  truffles  and  mushrooms,  all  cut  up  into  fairly  small  pieces.  Boil  the  sauce 
gently  until  the  sweetbreads,  etc.,  are  cooked,  then  season  to  suit  the  taste  with  pep- 
per and  salt.  When  cooked  take  the  vol-au-vent  out  of  the  oven,  remove  the  center 
carefully  without  damaging  the  case,  put  the  above  mixture  into  it  and  then  cover 
with  the  lid.  Place  the  vol-au-vent  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  while 
very  hot.  If  the  cases  are  made  and  cooked  before  the  mixture  with  which  to  fill 
them  is  ready,  they  can  always  be  placed  in  an  oven  and  warmed  again. 


274  VEAL. 

Sweetbreads,  Waldorf. 

Disgorge  some  sweetbreads  in  cold  water  for  one  hour,  change  the  water  and 
boil  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  half  an  hour,  then  refresh  and  lay  them  under  a  weight 
for  another  half  hour;  remove  and  lard  with  small  fat  pork  lardings.  Line  the  bottom 
of  a  saucepan  with  the  fragments  of  fat  pork,  parsley  roots,  a  slice  or  two  of  carrot 
and  a  minced  onion;  add  a  little  white  broth  and  the  sweetbreads,  and  leave  to 
simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Dress  them  onto  artichoke  bottoms,  laid  on  a  dish,  half  a 
sweetbread  on  each,  and  serve  with  a  brown  sauce  containing  chopped  truffles  and 
small  chicken  quenelles. 

Sweetbreads  with   Black   Butter. 

Boil  the  sweetbreads,  and  then  press  them  between  two  plates  until  cold.  Cut 
them  into  thin  slices,  and  rub  them  in  plenty  of  flour.  Put  one  and  one-half  pounds 
of  butter  into  a  fryingpan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  frothy  and  brown,  then  put  in 
the  sweetbreads,  and  brown  on  both  sides.  When  cooked  place  the  sweetbreads  on  a 
hot  dish,  garnish  with  a  few  olives  and  slices  of  lemon,  put  a  little  of  the  browned 
butter  over,  and  serve. 

Sweetbreads  with   Mushrooms. 

Boil  the  sweetbreads  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes,  then  cut  them  into  small 
pieces,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  an  equal  amount  of  chopped  mushrooms,  cover 
with  a  cream  sauce  and  boil  them  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn  the  mixture  onto  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Curried   Tendons   of  Veal. 

Cut  the  tendons  into  equal-sized  pieces,  and  braise  them.  When  cooked,  drain 
the  tendons  and  press  them  between  two  plates  till  nearly  cold.  Strain  the  cooking 
liquor  into  another  saucepan.  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mixing  them  to  a  paste  with  a  little  water,  then  pour  it  in  the 
strained  liquor,  and  stir  well  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Trim  the  tendons  neatly, 
put  them  in  the  curry,  and  boil  gently  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put  some  slices  of  fat 
bacon  on  a  dish,  put  the  tendons  on  them,  pour  over  the  curry,  and  serve  with  a  dish 
of  plain  boiled  rice. 

Timbales   of  Veal. 

Trim  off  all  the  skin  from  a  fillet  of  veal,  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  place 
them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them.  Put  half  a  dozen  chicken's  livers  in  a  fryingpan 
with  some  fat  bacon,  to  fry.  Drain  the  livers,  pound  them,  mix  them  with  the 
pounded  veal,  season  with  mixed  spices,  pepper  and  salt,  and  pass  it  through  a  fine 


VEAL.  275 

hair  sieve;  then  mix  with  it  five  tablespoonfuls  of  rather  coarsely  chopped  cooked 
ham.  Butter  some  small  moulds,  line  them  with  a  rich  puff  paste,  and  fill  them 
with  the  mixture.  Bake  for  about  forty-five  mmutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  then 
remove,  and  level  the  contents  off  to  the  same  height  as  the  moulds.  Take  the 
timbales  out  of  the  moulds,  pour  a  little  thick  sauce  in  them,  cover  with  some  lids  of 
puff  paste  that  have  been  baked  by  themselves,  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish  covered 
with  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  at  once. 

Stewed   CalPs   Tongue   and   Brains. 

Place  in  hot  water  a  boiled  calf's  tongue  and  a  cooked  brain,  keeping  the  brain 
as  whole  as  possible,  and  get  them  hot.  Make  a  brown  gravy  by  stirring  one  table- 
spoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour  over  the  fire  until  light  brown,  and  then  slowly  stir 
in  one  pint  of  boiling  water;  season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and- pinch  or  two  of 
pepper,  and  one  gill  of  vinegar;  lay  the  tongue  and  brain  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the 
gravy  over,  and  serve  at  once.  Or  serve  them  with  a  hot  sauce  made  by  mixing  with 
a  breakfast  cupful  of  mayonnaise,  one  saltspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  one  tablespoonful 
each  of  chopped  parsley,  capers  and  pickles,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  grated  onion. 

Calf's   Tongue  with   Tomato   Sauce. 

Trim  and  well  wash  a  calf's  tongue,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and 
scald.  Remove,  drain  and  lard,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  carrots  and  two  or 
three  onions,  three  heads  of  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  sufficient  rich 
stock  to  moisten.  Allow  it  to  simmer  gently  for  four  hours.  Take  out  the  tongue 
when  done,  and  slice  it  in  halves,  removing  the  skin;  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  tomato  sauce  poured  over. 


Poultry. 


Capons. 

The  instructions  for  preparing  capons  for  cooking  are  as  follows: 
FOR  CLEANING  AND  TRUSSING — :Pluck  off  all  the  feathers  and  singe  a  capon,  chop 
off  the  head  close  to  the  back,  remove  the  crop,  and  loosen  the  liver  and  other  inside 
parts  to  the  breast  end.     Cut  around  the  vent,  draw  it  clean,  flatten  the  breast-bone 
with  a  cutlet  bat,  cut  off  the  toenails  and  tuck  the  feet  down  close  to  the  legs. 

FOR  BOILING — Put  the  forefinger  through  the  interior,  under  the  skin  of  the  legs, 
raise  it,  make  holes  in  them,  and  push  in  the  legs.  Pass  a  skewer  into  the  first  joint 
of  the  pinion,  bringthe  middle  of  the  leg  close  to  it;  push  a  skewer  through  the  middle 
of  the  leg  into  the  body,  and  repeat  this  operation  on  the  other  side.  Place  the  liver 
and  gizzard  in  the  pinions,  turn  the  ends  or  points  on  the  back,  and  fasten  the  legs 
into  position  by  tieing  them  with  a  string. 

Boiled   Capon. 

Draw  a  fat  capon,  be  careful  not  to  remove  the  fat  from  the  rump;  peel  about 
one-half  pound  of  truffles,  boil  them  in  a  little  Madeira;  take  the  trimmings  of  the 
truffles  and  pound  them  with  an  equal  amount  of  breadcrumbs,  add  half  a  goose's  fat 
liver,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  scraped  bacon;  rub  through 
a  sieve.  Truss  the  capon  with  its  legs  forced  under  the  skin,  rub  it  with  lemon,  and 
tie  on  it  thin  slices  of  bacon  fat:  put  it  in  a  pan  with  some  slices  of  vegetables  and 
bacon.  Place  in  sufficient  white  broth  to  cover,  and  over  all  a  piece  of  buttered 
paper,  and  boil  gently.  When  cooked  drain  and  take  off  the  string.  Put  a  layer  of 
the  forcemeat  on  a  dish,  put  the  capon  over  and  garnish  both  sides  with  white  cocks- 
combs. 

Boiled   Barded  Capon  with  Mushrooms. 

Take  a  young  capon,  singe  and  draw  it,  fill  it  within  with  bread-stuffing  of  veal 
or  forcemeat,  with  the  stems  of  some  chopped  mushrooms  added.  Put  a  slice  of  fat 
bacon  on  the  breast,  score  a  little  and  tie  it  on.  Put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  enough 
unskimmed  broth  to  cover  it,  add  spices  and  aromatics  to  flavor.  Place  the  pan  on  a 
slow  fire,  broil  one  hour.  When  it  is  cooked  take  it  from  the  pan,  skim  off  the  fat 
from  the  stock,  and  make  a  little  white  sauce  reduced  with  the  liquor,  in  which  a  few 
mushrooms  have  been  boiled.  Add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  thicken  it.  When 
ready  to  serve,  remove  the  string  and  bacon. 

276 


POULTRY.  277 

Braised   Capon. 

Take  a  capon,  draw  and  truss  it,  put  it  into  a  braisingpan  with  half  a  pound  of  fat 
bacon,  sliced;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  pint  of  veal  broth.  Place  it  on 
a  brisk  fire,  which  will  give  the  capon  a  brown  color.  Then  remove  it  to  a  moderate 
fire,  and  put  some  hot  coals  or  embers  on  the  top,  and  braise  the  capon  for  an  hour. 
Skim  off  the  fat  from  the  liquor,  add  half  a  pint  of  good  stock,  reduce  it  to  a  half- 
glaze,  strain  and  pour  over  the  capon.  Capons  may  be  stuffed  with  truffles,  chest- 
nuts, sausages,  olives,  or  plain  veal  stuffing. 

Braised   Capon,    Chipolata   Style. 

Choose  a  fine  young  capon,  draw  and  singe  it,  and  truss  as  if  for  boiling.  Peel 
a  lemon,  slice  it,  lay  the  slices  on  the  capon,  and  support  them  with  thin  layers  of 
bacon  fat.  Tie  them  up,  and  put  the  capon  into  a  stewpan  spread  with  vegetables 
and  trimmings  of  fat.  Allow  it  to  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  and  add  ten  or  twelve 
ounces  of  pickled  pork.  Then  pour  in  sufficient  good  broth  and  white  wine  to  cover 
one-half  the  height  of  the  capon.  Boil  it  up  and  put  the  capon  on  a  moderate  fire, 
so  that  it  will  braise  slowly.  It  will  be  necessary  to  turn  it  several  times,  and  will 
require  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  cook  thoroughly.  When  done,  remove  the 
pan  from  the  fire,  and  twenty  minutes  before  serving  put  about  twenty  small  chipolata 
sausages,  or  one  large  common  sausage  (not  too  thick),  into  the  pan.  Chipolata 
sausages  are  made  of  poultry  meat,  bacon,  and  bread-pulp.  When  ready  take  out 
the  capon,  strain  through  a  sieve  the  cooking  stock,  remove  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  to 
half-glaze,  adding  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  good  brown  sauce  and  two  or  three  dozen 
fresh  mushrooms.  When  it  is  sufficiently  reduced  add  the  sausages,  the  pork  cut 
into  squares,  twenty-four  cooked  chestnuts,  and  the  same  number  of  small  glazed 
onions.  Place  the  capon  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  onions,  sausages,  etc.,  and  serve 
with  the  sauce. 

Braised   Capon,   Financiere. 

Take  one  capon;  pluck,  singe  and  draw  it,  remove  the  forked  part  of  the  breast- 
bone, fill  the  crop  skin  with  butter  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  truss  the  capon 
in  the  same  way  you  would  for  roasting.  Lard  the  breast  with  strips  of  bacon  fat, 
and  tie  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  over  the  remainder  of  the  capon;  that  is,  the  parts  not 
larded.  Put  it  into  the  braisingpan  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  good  stock  to  come 
above  the  pinions,  then  lay  a  round  of  buttered  paper  over  the  capon,  cover  over  the 
pan,  and  let  it  simmer  for  an  hour.  Remove  the  paper  and  glaze  the  parts  that  are 
larded.  Then  make  a  ragout  of  foies  gras,  cut  in  scallops,  mushrooms,  and  some 
small  chicken  quenelles  mixed  in  financiere  sauce,  and  put  it  on  a  dish  round  a  block 
of  fried  bread,  made  by  cutting  the  crumb  of  bread  in  the  shape  of  a  block  eight 
inches  in  height,  six  inches  square  at  the  base,  and  three  and  one-half  inches  square 


2;8  POULTRY. 

at  the  top;  fry  this  in  some  boiling  fat,  let  it  drain,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  It 
can  be  fixed  to  the  dish  with  a  little  paste  made  of  egg  and  flour.  Arrange  the  capon 
with  its  crop  downward,  and  place  two  geese's  fat  livers,  studded  with  small  truffles, 
between  them  on  the  other  two  sides  of  the  bread.  Range  a  crayfish  on  either  side 
of  the  geese's  fat  livers,  and  cockscomb  on  the  top.  Put  a  larded  sweetbread  on 
the  top  of  the  bread  support,  then  garnish  three  silver  skewers  with  cockscombs, 
crayfish  and  mushrooms,  in  the  order  named,  and  thrust  them  into  the  capon  and 
sweetbreads.  Put  some  financiere  sauce  in  a  sauceboat,  and  serve. 

Braised   Capon,  Godard   Style. 

Prepare  and  cook  one  capon  as  for  braised  capons,  financiere,  but  do  not  lard 
the  breasts.  Then  make  a  stew  of  cockscombs,  truffles  and  mushrooms  moistened  with 
Godard  sauce.  Prepare  a  dish  with  a  bread  support  and  croutons  of  fried  bread  round 
the  edge;  pour  in  the  stew  and  garnish  with  cockscomb,  truffles,  some  larded  sweet- 
breads, and  a  large  quenelle  ornamented  with  truffles  and  tongues  in  the  following 
order:  a  larded  sweetbread  on  each  of  the  sides  and  one  on  the  top  of  the  bread  and 
a  quenelle  on  top  of  the  two  sweetbreads;  put  that  on  the  dish  by  the  side  of  the 
bread;  place  a  truffle  on  the  top  of  each  quenelle  and  one  on  each  side  of  the 
sweetbreads,  leaving  a  little  space  between  and  a  cockscomb  in  the  space  left 
between  the  sweetbreads  and  the  truffles  and  one  at  the  base  of  the  capon.  Then 
take  a  silver  skewer  and  put  two  cockscombs  and  a  truffle  on  it  and  thrust  it  into 
the  bread  support  between  the  legs  of  the  capon.  Serve  some  Godard  sauce  separately 
in  a  sauceboat. 

Braised   Capon   with   Sweetbread   and   Truffles. 

Prepare  and  truss  a  capon  as  for  capons,  financiere.  Then  make  a  stew  of 
chicken  quenelles  and  cut  mushrooms  mixed  in  a  Regence  sauce.  When  the  capon  is 
done,  drain  and  place  it  on  a  dish  and  lean  it  against  a  block  of  fried  bread  with  the 
crop  downwards.  Then  place  one  braised  sweetbread  below  the  capon  and  one  on 
the  top  of  the  bread.  Put  a  crayfish  on  each  side  of  the  sweetbread  except  the 
sweetbread  on  the  top  and  a  truffle  on  each  crayfish.  Serve  with  some  Regence  sauce 
in  a  sauceboat. 

Capon    Pie. 

Separate  the  flesh  from  the  bones  of  a  cold  roasted  capon  and  cut  it  into  slices 
with  the  exception  of  the  thighs  and  pinions,  which  should  be  left  whole.  Remove  the 
skin  from  and  boil  about  one-half  pound  of  chestnuts,  chop  fine  in  equal  quantities 
•some  thyme,  sweet  marjoram  and  pennyroyal;  line  a  pastrypan  with  paste,  put  in  it 
the  thighs  and  pinions  and  strew  over  them  a  quantity  of  minced  onions;  then  put  in 
flesh  of  the  bird  with  four  sweetbreads  and  half  a  dozen  oysters  cut  in  halves,  season 


POULTRY.  279 

them  with  sweet  herbs,  salt,  cloves,  grated  nutmeg  and  a  bit  of  mace ;  cover  with  the  chest- 
nuts and  put  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  over.  Close  the  pan  and  bake  the  pasty  in 
a  quick  oven.  Meanwhile  prepare  a  sauce  with  gravy,  stock,  drawn  butter,  two  or 
three  boned  and  filleted  anchovies  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  When 
cooked,  garnish  the  pasty  with  slices  of  lemon,  pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

Roasted   Capons. 

Cut  off  the  first  joint  of  the  pinions,  beat  the  breastbone  flat  with  a  rolling  pin, 
push  a  skewer  through  the  pinion  bringing  the  middle  of  the  legs  close,  pass  a  skewer 
through  the  legs,  body,  and  remaining  pinion,  twist  the  neck,  and  fasten  the  head  on 
the  skewer  the  bill  pointing  forwards  ;  pass  another  skewer  through  the  sides,  and 
fasten  the  legs  close  on  either  side.  Run  a  skewer  through  all,  and  the  capon  is 
ready  for  cooking. 

Roasted   Capons  with   Noodles. 

Prepare  a  capon,  as  for  braised  capons,  financiere,  covering  the  breast  with 
slices  of  bacon-fat  instead  of  larding  them.  Wrap  some  brown  paper  round  the 
capon,  and  roast  it  before  a  good  fire.  When  it  is  done  move  it  from  the  spit,  and 
take  off  the  bacon,  Moisten  some  noodles  with  German  sauce,  and  add  to  this  some 
Parmesan  cheese  and  chicken  glaze.  Place  the  noodles  on  a  dish  two  inches  in  thick- 
ness, put  the  capon  on  them,  and  serve  with  German  sauce. 

Stewed   Capon,  French   Style. 

Pluck,  singe  and  draw  a  capon,  wipe  it  thoroughly  both  inside  and  out,  rub  it 
well  with  lemon  and  truss  ;  tie  some  slices  of  bacon  fat  over,  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  pour  over  one  breakfast  cupful  of  good  stock  or  gravy, 
and  stew  gently  on  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  bird  is  done.  Place  it  on  a  dish,  and 
serve. 

Instructions  for  Cleaning  a  Chicken. 

Lay  the  bird  on  its  back  with  its  tail  toward  you,  cut  a  circle  around  the  vent  to 
free  the  bowels,  then  turn  the  chicken  about  so  that  the  breast  is  toward  you  and  the 
head  and  neck  hanging  over  the  edge  of  the  table.  Open  the  neck  at  the  back,  cut- 
ting lengthwise  along  the  bone,  and  when  this  incision  is  long  enough  draw  the 
skinned  neck  in  a  loop  through  the  incision.  Chop  off  the  neck  at  the  base  and  then 
cut  through  the  skin  of  the  neck  across  the  slit  so  as  to  leave  a  flap  about  two  inches 
long.  Next  insert  the  fingers  through  the  opening  in  the  neck  and  draw  out  the 
entrails,  taking  every  care  not  to  break  them.  If  they  should  be  burst  by  any  acci- 
dent the  interior  of  the  carcass  must  be  washed  out  and  dried.  If  the  entrails  are 
sound  the  inside  may  be  dried  by  wiping  out  with  a  cloth.  Singe  the  chicken  and 


280  POULTRY. 

the  legs  especially  until  the  skin  will  peel  off  by  drawing  a  cloth  along  them.  Shorten 
the  toes  and  spurs  by  clipping  them  and  the  bird  is  then  ready  for  trussing.  Some 
cooks  cut  off  the  feet  just  below  the  joint  where  the  feathered  legs  commence;  for 
boiling  it  is  well  to  do  this,  but  for  roasting  it  is  not  necessary. 

If  the  poulterer  cleans  the  bird  it  may  be  cut  up  for  an  entree  as  follows:  Split 
the  chicken  into  halves  lengthwise  by  cutting  down  the  middle  of  the  back  with  a 
sharp  knife,  laying  the  fowl  wide  open  and  chopping  through  the  breast  bone  from 
the  inside.  Lay  one-half  on  the  board  and  chop  slantingly  through  the  end  of  the 
drumstick  at  the  hip  joint  or  a  little  on  the  fleshy  side  of  it;  next  cut  off  the  side 
bone  and  tail  end,  leaving  as  much  meat  as  possible  on  the  body  a  little  of  which 
may  be  taken  from  the  thigh.  Cut  off  the  second  joint  by  chopping  straight  across 
the  chicken,  thereby  dividing  the  quarters  into  three  pieces  of  equal  weight.  Cut  off 
the  two  small  joints  of  the  wing;  chop  off  the  main  joint  slantwise  so  that  it  will  have 
attached  to  it  a  piece  of  the  neckbone  and  a  small  part  of  the  flesh  of  the  breast. 
There  will  then  remain  nearly  the  entire  breast,  which  should  be  chopped  straight 
across  to  make  two  pieces.  Cut  up  the  other  half  of  the  fowl  in  the  same  way.  The 
object  of  cutting  up  a  fowl  in  this  way  is  to  provide  for  each  person  a  piece  of  meat 
of  equal  size  and  appearance.  Treated  otherwise  one  would  have  all  meat  and  another 
a  dark-looking,  bare  piece  of  bone. 

Boning  a  Chicken. 

Break  the  bones  of  the  bird  just  above  the  feet  by  giving  them  a  blow  with  a 
knife,  cut  the  skin  round  and  give  the  feet  a  twist,  thus  breaking  them  off  and  with 
them  the  strong  sinews  of  the  legs.  Chop  off  the  wings  just  above  the  second  joint. 
Slit  the  skin  of  the  neck  and  pull  it  out,  cut  it  off  close  and  trim  the  skin  neatly. 
Make  an  incision  along  the  back  from  the  neck  to  the  tail,  then  separate  the  flesh 
from  the  bones  beginning  at  the  neck  end.  When  the  wing  bone  is  reached  disjoint 
it  from  the  carcass,  make  a  slit  along  the  inside  of  the  wing  and  remove  the  bone, 
then  disjoint  the  thigh  bone  from  the  carcass.  Proceed  the  same  with  the  other 
side.  Work  along  each  side,  detaching  the  breast  and  being  very  careful  not  to 
break  the  skin,  especially  over  the  breast,  where  it  is  very  tender;  then  remove  the 
carcass;  make  an  incision  along  the  thigh,  dissect  the  bone  from  the  flesh,  scrape 
the  flesh  of  the  leg  along  the  bone  and  then  pull  it  out  in  such  a  way  as  to  draw  out 
the  remaining  sinews  with  it. 

If  very  old  and  tough  the  chicken  may  be  made  tender  in  the  following 
manner*  Cut  it  up  into  joints;  put  these  into  a  deep  pan  with  sufficient  slightly 
salted  water  to  cover;  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  and  let  it  remain  until  the  bones 
can  be  easily  pulled  out.  It  will  require  three  or  four  hours  for  this.  As  the 
water  boils  away  more  boiling  water  must  be  added  so  as  to  have  the  meat  always 
covered.  Now  draw  out  all  the  bones,  remove  the  skin  and  sinews,  and  the  flesh 
will  be  quite  tender  and  fit  for  using  in  stews,  curries  or  such  like  dishes. 


POULTRY.  281 


Trussing   Chickens,  Fowls,  Turkeys,  Etc. 

Turkeys  and  fowls  are  trussed  in  the  same  way,  so  that  what  is  said  of  one  will  do 
for  the  other.  As  there  is  a  good  deal  to  say  on  this  subject  it  will  be  well  to  observe 
that  when  drawn  according  to  the  directions  given  under- their  respective  headings  the 
free  use  of  the  flour-mop  or  dredger  is  an  absolute  necessity,  otherwise  the  bird  will 
have  a  most  revolting  appearance,  being  besmeared  with  blood  and  other  discoloring 
substances  from  the  inside,  and  would  be  anything  but  attractive  or  appetizing. 

The  first  thing  to  do  with  a  fowl  is  to  clean  or  "draw"  it.  When  you  have  done 
this  single  it,  chop  off  the  toes  of  the  claws,  leaving  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  and 
serve  the  spurs  in  the  same  way;  then  chop  off  the  pointed  tips  of  the  pinions  and 
turn  the  wings  in  so  as  to  make  triangles  on  the  back  of  the  bird,  the  tips  being  pushed 
over  the  first  joints. 

Let  it  be  said  here,  once  for  all,  that  the  practice  of  fixing  the  gizzard  and  liver 
into  the  wings  has  long  since  been  done  away  with,  both  being  useful  for  other  pur- 
poses, but  spoiled  by  roasting  or  baking. 

Having  arranged  the  wings,  lay  the  fowl  on  its  back,  and  so  that  it  will  be  on  its 
folded  wings  also;  then  grip  both  thighs  with  one  hand,  and  with  a  long  packing  nee- 
dle threaded  with  twine  (white  in  preference),  pierce  through  the  thighs  and  body  in 
the  bend  of  the  joint.  Draw  the  string  through  and  push  the  needle  under  the  joint 
of  the  wing  nearest  the  leg  alongside  of  it,  then  cut  through  the  middle  of  the  chick 
part,  taking  a  stitch  through  the  flap  of  the  neck,  drawn  tightly  down,  stitching  it  on- 
to the  back,  then  through  the  opposite  pinion.  Press  the  leg  into  an  even  position 
and  square  the  fowl  nicely  before  you;  when  it  is  evenly  and  neatly  shaped,  tie  the 
ends  of  the  string  fairly  tight,  That  done  press  the  leg  down  and  pass  the  needle 
through  the  leg  and  body  to  the  other  side;  draw  it  tightly  and  return  through  the 
flesh  over  the  outside  of  the  backbone,  through  again  to  the  joint  where  the  two  ends 
are  tied.  Finally,  cut  a  small  slit  in  the  apron  just  above  the  vent  and  force  the  cush- 
ion of  the  tail  through  this  hole  so  that  it  remain  in  the  bird  out  of  sight.  When 
fowls  are  stuffed  the  stuffing  is  pushed  through  the  hole  where  the  vent  was  before  the 
tail  was  tucked  in,  and  thrust  clear  up  to  the  breast,  filling  it  out  like  a  crop.  Should 
there  be  any  difficulty  in  making  the  vent  keep  in  its  place,  a  small  skewer  must  be 
used. 

Some  cooks  cut  the  feet  off  at  the  ankle  joints;  that  is,  where  the  scaly  part  joins 
the  feathers,  and  this  practice  is  a  good  one;  but  when  it  is  decided  to  leave  the  legs 
on  they  must  be  singed  or  rather  burnt  until  the  outer  skin  can  be  stripped  off  by 
drawing  a  cloth  firmly  along  it.  Take  care  to  see  that  both  the  knots  of  the  trussing- 
twine  are  on  the  same  side  of  the  bird,  as  they  are  more  easily  removed  after  cooking. 

Pheasants,  pigeons  and  partridges  can  be  trussed  for  roasting  in  a  similar  manner 
to  that  described  above. 

Fowls  and  turkeys  for  broiling  or  braising  require  a  somewhat  different  manner 


282  POULTRY. 

of  trussing.  Make  an  incision  in  the  leg  down  to  the  bone,  then  insert  the  ringers  in 
the  vent  and  loosen  the  skin  from  the  flesh  all  round  the  thigh.  When  the  limb  is 
thoroughly  loosened  from  the  skin  lift  the  cut  edge  nearest  the  body  of  the  bird,  and, 
folding  the  limb,  thrust  it  under  the  skin  until  it  can  be  seen.  •  The  strings  are  then 
fastened  over  the  feet. 

The  great  difficulty  about  this  latter  method  of  trussing  is  to  get  the  legs  well 
under  the  skin  without  breaking  it.  The  insufficient  loosening  of  the  skin  is  generally 
the  prime  cause  of  the  trouble. 

Geese  and  ducks  are  trussed  by  turning  the  wings  under  and  fastening  the  legs 
close  to  the  sides  by  skewers.  When,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  the  feet  of  the  duck 
are  left  on,  the  joint  is  severed  and  the  toes  cut  off,  and  the  feet  scalded  and  peeled; 
the  bird  is  then  trussed  in  the  usual  manner.  The  feet  are  tied  under  the  back  against 
the  points  of  the  wings. 

Chicken,  Bechamel   Sauce. 

Put  into  a  large  saucepan  two  onions  cut  in  quarters  with  one  ounce  of  butter 
and  fry  for  a  few  minutes.  Cut  about  a  pound  and  a  half  or  two  pounds  of  fillet  of 
veal  into  small  pieces  and  put  these  in  with  the  onions,  also  two  chickens  from  which 
the  fillets  have  been  removed,  seasoning  them  with  salt  and  pepper;  fry  the  meats  for 
a  few  minutes,  then  dredge  in  half  a  pound  of  flour,  stir  it  over  the  fire  and  pour  in 
gradually  three  quarts  of  stock,  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  continue  stirring 
until  it  boils.  Move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  put  on  the  lid  and  let 
the  contents  simmer  for  two  hours.  The  fat  should  be  skimmed  off  frequently. 
Strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into  another  stewpan  and  boil  it  quickly, 
adding  a  pint  of  thick  cream  in  three  separate  portions.  When  the  sauce  is  reduced 
to  such  a  consistency  that  it  coats  the  spoon,  strain  it  through  a  broth  napkin  into  a 
basin,  and  stir  it  until  cold. 

Boiled   Chicken. 

Put  one  quart  of  broth  into  a  stewpan  over  the  stove,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  a 
cleaned  and  trussed  fowl  or  chicken  and  season  with  an  onion,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  fowl  is  done,  dish  it  up,  garnish  with  pieces 
of  fried  bacon,  and  serve  with  white  sauce. 

Boiled   Chickens,  Providence   Style. 

Singe,  draw  and  wipe  two  chickens,  truss  them  from  the  wing  to  the  leg  with  a 
needle,  and  boil  them  in  a  saucepan  of  broth  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Prepare 
one  pint  of  allemande  sauce  with  the  broth  of  a  chicken,  adding  one  teacupful  each  of 
finely  cut  boiled  carrot  and  cooked  lima  beans  or  flageolets,  and  cook  for  three 
minutes  longer.  Dish  up  the  fowls,  untruss,  pour  over  the  sauce,  arrange  the  vege- 
tables on  either  side,  and  serve  with  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over. 


POULTRY.  283 

Boiled   Chickens,  Royal   Style. 

Truss  two  chickens  as  for  boiling,  lard  their  breasts  thoroughly  and  place  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  stock  up  to  the  larding;  then  cover  them  over  with  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper,  put  a  tight-fitting  lid  on  the  pan  and  let  them  gently  simmer  until 
done.  While  they  are  cooking,  cut  a  croustade  of  bread  in  the  shape  of  a  vase,  and 
fry  it;  put  this  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  place  the  fowls  on  either  side,  garnish  the 
dish  with  a  garnishing  of  cockscombs,  truffles,  mushrooms  and  ham,  cut  in  fancy 
shapes  and  pour  over  one  pint  of  good  white  sauce,  previously  made  hot.  The 
croustade  should  have  fine,  ornamented,  fancy  skewers  stuck  in  it,  upon  which  may 
be  arranged  some  of  the  pieces  out  of  the  garnishing,  and  two  or  three  crayfish. 

Boiled   Stuffed   Chicken. 

Fin  the  body  of  a  cleansed  fowl  or  chicken  with  small  onions,  which  have  been 
half  cooked  in  milk.  Boil  the  giblets  with  some  onions  and  two  or  three  slices  of 
bacon,  and  when  done,  strain  the  gravy  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  fowl  and  simmer 
until  quite  tender.  Boil  three  large  onions  in  a  quart  of  milk,  and  when  it  is  reduced 
to  half  its  original  quantity,  thicken  with  half  a  teacupful  of  flour  that  has  been 
smoothly  moistened  with  milk.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  thick;  add  two  pats 
of  butter  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  butter 
is  dissolved.  Dish  the  fowl,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Chicken   with   Onions. 

Take  a  young,  fat  chicken,  singe,  draw  and  truss  it  for  boiling;  put  it  into  a 
buttered  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  white  broth,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  and  pepper  over, 
place  the  pan  over  a  moderate  fire  and  cook  gently  for  thirty  minutes.  Blanch  one 
pound  of  small  onions,  place  them  in  the  pan  with  the  chicken  and  cook  gently  for 
thirty  minutes  longer.  Whilst  the  chicken  is  cooking,  it  should  be  turned  two  or 
three  times.  Pour  the  broth  and  onions  over,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Chicken  with   Poulette   Sauce. 

Boil  a  chicken  in  broth  seasoned  with  an  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves,  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Turn  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms  and  pre- 
pare one  pound  of  poulette  sauce.  When  the  fowl  is  done,  dish  it,  garnish  with  the 
mushrooms,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Chicken  with   Rice. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  a  chicken  and  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes ;  add  one  onion 
stuck  with  three  cloves,  one  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs.  Take  out  the  onions  and  herb  and  put  in  a  breakfast  cupful  of  well  washed 


284  POULTRY. 

rice  and  boil  until  the  rice  is  tender ;  dish  the  fowl,  add  a  teacupful  of  gravy  or  stock  to 
the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled ;  pour  the  gravy  and  rice  around  the  fowl,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Chicken   with   Tarragon   Sauce. 

Take  a  large  chicken,  singe,  truss  and  draw ;  put  a  piece  of  butter  mixed  with  a 
handful  of  tarragon  leaves  inside ;  cover  it  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  put  it  in  a 
saucepan  with  the  neck,  gizzard  and  some  pieces  of  trimmings  of  veal ;  add  one  tea- 
cupful  of  Madeira  wine,  sufficient  broth  to  cover,  and  some  fat  skimmed  off  some  rich 
stock.  When  boiling,  stand  the  saucepan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Take  the  chicken  out  when  it  is  cooked,  strain  and  skim  the 
liquor,  thicken  with  a  little  roux,  put  in  a  small  bunch  of  tarragon  leaves,  and  boil  for 
twenty  minutes.  Skim,  strain  and  reduce  the  sauce,  thicken  it  with  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  comes  to  a  boil ;  then  add  a  small  piece 
of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  blanched  green  tarragon  leaves.  Dish  the  chicken, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Braised   Chickens. 

Take  three  young  fat  chickens  and  cut  them  into  quarters;  put  a  little  butter  at 
the  bottom  of  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  is  melted  add  a  layer  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little 
onion,  shallot  and  mushrooms,  all  chopped  fine,  and  a  large  bunch  of  parsley. 
Place  the  legs  first,  and  then  the  remainder  of  the  fowls  on  them,  sprinkle  over  a  lit- 
tle more  sweet  herbs,  cover  over  the  pan,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  place  hot  ashes  on  the 
lid.  Let  this  cook  for  twenty  minutes  or  so,  then  put  the  meat  on  a  dish,  pour  a  little 
melted  glaze  over  the  herbs,  then  pour  over  the  chicken,  and  serve. 

Braised    Chickens,  Montmorency   Style. 

Select  a  couple  of  chickens  of  equal  size,  draw  and  singe  them  and  fill  the  insides 
with  a  paste  made  of  butter,  lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper,  and  tie  them  up  into  shape. 
Put  a  saucepan  of  water  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  dip  the  breasts  of  the  birds  in 
for  a  few  minutes  to  make  the  meat  firm.  Lard  the  breast  with  thin  strips  of  fat  pork; 
put  the  chickens  into  an  oval-shaped  saucepan  with  several  layers  of  fat  pork  around, 
but  not  over  them;  add  a  little  good,  freshly  made  broth  (for  if  it  has  not  been  made 
fresh  it  will  turn  the  meat  red)  to  moisten;  place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  cover  the  lid 
over  with  hot  ashes  to  cook  the  bacon  quickly;  when  this  is  a  good  brown  color  the 
ashes  may  be  taken  off  and  the  fowls  left  to  cook  for  thirty  minutes  very  gently. 
Then  take  them  out,  remove  the  string  and  dish  with  a  financiere  garnishing. 

Braised   Chickens,  Printaniere. 

Take  a  large  fowl  or  chicken,  singe,  draw  and  truss  and  put  in  a  stewpan,  add 
eight  ounces  of  chopped  bacon  and  fry  the  bird  lightly.  Scald  and  chop  in  small 


POULTRY.  285 

squares  about  half  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon;  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  four  small  car- 
rots and  onions,  season  with  salt,  add  a  teacupful  of  broth;  put  the  lid  on  the  stewpan 
with  some  live  embers  on  the  top,  stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire  and  finish  braising. 
Dish  the  chicken,  mix  some  cooked  peas  with  the  vegetables  and  garnish  the  dish 
with  them.  Stir  and  mix  an  equal  quantity  of  white  sauce  with  the  liquor,  boil  for  a 
few  minutes,  strain,  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Chickens. 

Take  a  chicken,  clean,  singe  and  split  it  down  the  back;  break  the  joints,  take 
out  the  breast-bone  and  wipe  the  bird  clean;  dust  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  it, 
rub  with  warm  butter,  put  on  a  gridiron  over  a  good,  clear  fire,  and  broil  for  twenty 
minutes  or  so.  Place  it  on  a  dish  with  some  more  butter  over  and  serve  quite  hot. 
To  carve  this,  separate  the  legs  and  wings  from  the  body,  and  then  the  breast  from 
the  lower  parts 

Broiled   Chicken    Cutlets. 

Cut  off  the  larger  fillets  of  four  chickens  without  injuring  the  small  fillets;  cut 
the  wishbone  in  halves,  take  off  the  small  fillets,  remove  the  skin  and  make  them 
into  the  shape  of  hearts,  sticking  the  wishbones  into  the  ends  or  points  so  as  to  make 
them  look  like  cutlets.  Sprinkle  them  with  plenty  of  salt  and  pepper,  brush  them 
on  both  sides  with  egg  and  cover  with  breadcrumbs;  next  dip  them  into  melted 
butter,  then  into  crumbs  again,  smooth  them  over  with  a  knife  and  broil  over  a  good 
fire  until  of  light  brown.  Pour  some  Spanish  sauce  on  a  dish,  put  the  cutlets  on  it 
and  serve.  If  preferred,  they  may  be  fried  in  butter. 

Broiled   Chickens   with   Bacon. 

Singe  two  chickens,  draw  and  wipe  them  ;  cut  off  their  heads  and  then  split  them 
lengthwise  without  separating.  Place  them  on  a  dish,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil,  turn  them  well  in  the  seasoning  and  broil  for  nine 
minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  six  small  toasts  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  chickens 
over,  spread  half  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  top  and  add  six  thin  slices  of 
boiled  bacon. 

Capilotade   of  Chicken. 

Take  some  remains  of  cold  roasted  chickens  and  cut  them  into  pieces.  Put  in  a 
stewpan  two  ounces  of  butter  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  well  mixed;  then  put  in  a  few  chopped  herbs  and  some  mushrooms  that  have 
been  scalded  and  cut  up  into  small  pieces,  and  fry  them;  when  browned,  pour  over 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine  and  an  equal  quantity  of  broth  and  boil  gently  for  twenty 
minutes.  Put  the  pieces  of  chicken  into  the  sauce  and  stew  them  slowly  for  about 
fifteen  minutes.  Turn  the  stew  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  sippets  of  toast  or 
croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 


286  POULTRY. 

Chicken   Croquettes. 

Take  two  chickens  weighing  about  three  pounds  each,  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  water  to  cover,  add  two  onions  and  carrots,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme, 
a  few  cloves  and  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  and  boil  until  the  birds  are  tender;  then 
remove  the  skin,  gristle  and  sinews  and  chop  the  meat  as  fine  as  possible.  Put  into 
a  saucepan  one  pound  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes  and  add  half  a  pint  of  the  liquor  the  chickens  were  cooked  in  and  one 
pint  of  rich  cream,  and  boil  for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  stirring  continually.  Remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg  and  a  little  powdered 
sweet  marjoram,  add  the  chopped  meat  and  stir  well.  Then  stir  in  rapidly  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs,  place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  for  a  minute,  stirring  well,  turn  the  mass 
onto  a  dish,  spread  it  out  and  let  it  get  cold.  Cover  the  hands  with  flour  and  form 
the  preparation  into  shapes,  dip  them  into  egg  beaten  with  cream,  then  in  sifted 
breadcrumbs  and  let  them  stand  for  half  an  hour  or  so  to  dry;  then  fry  them  a 
delicate  color  after  plunging  into  boiling  lard.  Take  them  out,  drain,  place  on  a 
napkin  on  a  dish  and  serve.  The  remainder  of  the  chicken  stock  may  be  used  for 
making  consomme  or  soup. 

Chicken    Croquettes,  Perigourdin. 

Prepare  some  croquettes  composed  of  chicken,  mushrooms,  two  truffles  cut  into 
small  square  pieces  and  one  ounce  of  cooked  smoked  tongue  in  small  pieces.  Fry 
them  for  four  minutes,  and  serve.  Heat  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  sauce,  add  to  it  one 
chopped  truffle  and  six  chopped  mushrooms.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  and  serve  in  a 
sauceboat. 

Chicken    Croquettes,  Queen   Style. 

Make  a  croquette  preparation  of  chicken  and  mushroom,  roll  it  into  eight  cork 
shaped  pieces,  dip  each  one  separately  in  beaten  egg  and  then  into  breadcrumbs. 
Fry  them  in  very  hot  fat  for  four  minutes,  drain  thoroughly  and  place  them  on  a  hot 
dish  over  a  folded  napkin.  Serve  with  half  a  pint  of  hot  Queen  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Curried   Chicken. 

Singe  and  draw  a  chicken  weighing  about  three  pounds  and  cut  the  flesh  into 
square  pieces;  put  these  in  cold  water  for  five  minutes,  wash  them  well,  drain  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  filling  it  up  to  the  surface  with  hot  water;  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  Add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  six  small  onions  and 
cook  on  a  moderate  fire  for  forty-five  minutes,  skimming  well.  Take  another  sauce- 
pan, place  in  it  a  gill  and  a  half  of  white  roux,  moisten  it  with  all  of  the  broth  from 
the  chicken,  and  mix  well  together.  Prepare  a  tablespoonful  of  diluted  curry  with  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  beat  all  well  together  and  pour  it 


POULTRY.  287 

into  the  sauce  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  continually  and  not  allowing  it  to  boil. 
Pour  the  sauce  over  the  chicken  which  remains  in  the  saucepan,  dress  immediately  on 
a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  boiled  rice,  and  serve. 

Curried   Chicken,  Creole   Style. 

(Prepare  and  cook  the  same  as  Curried  Chicken)  adding  one  green  pepper  cut 
very  fine,  one  chopped  onion  and  half  a  clove  of  garlic;  cook  for  twenty  minutes 
with  the  chicken. 

Curried   Chicken,  Spanish   Style. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  curried  chicken,  adding  two  tomatoes  cut  up  and  one 
green  pepper;  cook  for  ten  minutes  with  the  chicken. 

Chicken   Custard. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  chicken  stock  and  cream  into  a  saucepan  and 
boil;  then  pour  them  over  the  yolks  of  three  well-beaten  eggs,  put  them  into  the 
bain-marie,  add  a  little  salt,  and  cook  until  the  mixture  thickens  a  little.  Let  it  get 
cold,  put  it  into  custard  cups,  and  serve. 

Chicken   Cutlets. 

Take  a  cold  boiled  chicken,  chop  it  into  dice,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  to  cook 
with  half  its  bulk  of  raw  truffles,  also  cut  into  dice,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  quenelle 
forcemeat,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  reduced  veloute  sauce.  Divide  this  mixture 
into  eight  equal  parts,  and  roll  them  on  a  well  floured  board,  making  them  into  the 
shape  of  cutlets,  and  sticking  a  small  bone  in  the  thin  end.  Dip  them  one  by  one 
first  into  beaten  egg  and  then  into  breadcrumbs,  taking  care  that  the  crumbs  are 
equally  distributed  over  them;  plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  butter,  and  fry  until 
colored.  Take  them  out,  drain  on  a  cloth,  put  a  paper  frill  on  each  bone,  and  arrange 
them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  with  a  mince  of  vegetables  in  the  center. 

Deviled   Chicken. 

Make  a  mixture  of  cayenne,  salt,  mustard,  grated  lemon  peel,  lemon  juice,  sherry 
wine,  and  Worcestershire  sauce,  or  any  other  except  anchovy.  Cut  off  some  slices 
of  cooked  chicken,  butter,  lay  them  in  the  mixture  and  let  them  soak  for  some  time. 
Put  sauce  and  all  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire.  Do  not  let  it  boil,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Braised   Fillets   of  Chicken. 

Cut  off  some  fillets  of  chicken  and  with  a  larding-needle  lard  each  of  them  with 
four  strips  of  pork  ;  put  a  slice  of  fat  pork  for  each  fillet  on  the  bottom  of  a  braising 


288  POULTRY. 

pan  and  on  top  of  the  pork,  a  little  piece  of  onion ;  sprinkle  the  fillets  over  with  salt, 
pepper  and  flour,  place  them  on  the  top  of  the  pork  and  onion,  pour  in  two  pints  of 
stock,  cover  over  the  pan  and  cook  for  an  hour  or  so,  basting  frequently.  A  little 
more  water  or  stock  may  be  required  if  the  other  boils  away,  so  that  when  it  is 
completely  done  at  the  end  of  the  hour  there  will  be  about  one  pint  left  in  the  pan ; 
take  out  the  fillets,  drain  them,  cover  with  slightly  warmed  butter  and  dust  them  over 
with  flour  again  ;  then  place  them  on  a  gridiron  over  the  fire  and  broil  them  until 
they  are  a  light  brown  color.  After  the  meat  has  been  removed  from  the  gravy,  skim 
off  the  fat ;  put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  into  a  sauce- 
pan and  cook  until  of  a  light  brown ;  then  add  it  to  the  gravy,  and  boil  up  again. 
Place  the  fillets  on  a  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  around  them,  or  put  them  on  a  heap  of 
mashed  potatoes,  with  a  little  parsley  at  the  edge  and  the  sauce  poured  around. 

Epigrammes   of  Chicken    Fillets. 

Cut  off  the  fillets  from  three  chickens,  trim,  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  clarified 
butter,  give  them  a  curve  in  the  pan,  pour  more  butter  over,  place  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper  over  all,  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  or  over  the  fire,  and  cook  until  the  flesh  is 
done.  Cut  off  the  legs,  bone  them,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  mirepoix 
braise,  take  them  out  when  done  and  press  between  them  two  dishes  until  cold ;  now 
dip  them  into  warm  reduced  allemande  sauce,  next  in  breadcrumbs,  then  in  egg  and 
breadcrumbs  again.  Stick  a  piece  of  bone  in  the  thin  end  of  each,  plunge  them  into 
boiling  fat,  and  fry.  Have  ready  a  hollow  croustade  of  bread,  place  in  the  center  of  a 
dish,  arrange  the  fillets  around  alternately  with  the  legs,  fill  the  croustade  with  mush- 
rooms or  other  puree,  and  serve  with  allemande  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

Fried   Chicken    Fillets  with   Mushrooms. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  white  mushrooms,  peel  and  turn,  put  their  trimmings 
into  a  stewpan,  and  the  mushrooms  into  a  fryingpan  with  half  a  teacupful  of  water, 
a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  salt.  Boil  the  mushrooms  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes, then  strain  their  liquor  into  the  stewpan  with  the  trimmings,  add  one  pint  of 
bechamel  sauce,  and  boil  it  until  rather  thickly  reduced ;  then  pass  it  through  a  fine 
hair  sieve,  return  it  to  the  stewpan,  put  in  the  mushrooms,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
mix  half  a  teacupful  of  milk,  and  boil  it  up  again.  Trim  the  fillets  of  a  fowl,  put 
them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  them  over  a  moderate  fire.  When 
cooked  the  fillets  should  be  quite  white.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  mushrooms  in 
the  center. 

Larded   Fillets  of  Chicken. 

Take  ten,  without  removing  the  small  or  minion  fillets  and  lard  each  on  the 
smooth  surface  with  five  strips  of  bacon;  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper, 
arrange  them  in  a  fryingpan  close  together  on  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  add  a  little 


POULTRY.  289 

butter  and  put  them  on  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  place  the  pan  in  a 
moderate  oven  and  leave  it  for  five  minutes  longer.  Glaze  them  with  a  paste  brush 
and  cook  to  a  good  color,  leaving  them  a  little  underdone.  Make  a  mince  of  black 
truffles,  with  a  little  Madeira  added;  put  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  place  the  fillets  in  a 

circle  leaning  against  it,  with  the  sharp  pointed  ends  uppermost,  and  serve. 

N 

Chicken    Fillets,  Perigord   Style. 

Take  two  cold  braised  chickens,  cut  off  the  fillets  and  divide  each  into  halves. 
Put  in  a  mortar  two  ounces  of  goose's  fat  liver,  pound  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  hair 
sieve.  Chop  an  onion  finely,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  lump  of  butter,  pass 
it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  and  then  pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  white 
sauce  that  has  been  boiled  until  thickly  reduced.  When  on  the  point  of  boiling,  put 
in  the  pounded  fat  liver  and  stir  in  quickly  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Leave 
the  sauce  until  cold.  Coat  the  fillets  with  the  cold  sauce,  dip  them  in  well-beaten 
eggs,  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs,  then  beat  them  lightly  with  a  knife,  and  repeat  the 
operation.  Plunge  the  fillets  into  a  stewpan  half  full  of  boiling  lard,  and  fry  them 
until  browned;  then  drain,  arrange  in  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  garnish  the  center 
with  fried  water  cresses,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  gravy. 

Chicken,  Princess   Style. 

Cut  off  the  fillets  from  five  chickens,  pare  and  flatten  them  a  little  with  a  knife- 
handle.  Shape  their  largest  sides  a  good  round,  trim  them  to  a  point  to  resemble 
cutlets,  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and  cover  with  a  cloth.  Take  a  saucepan  and  put  in 
it  five  ounces  of  butter,  melt,  let  it  settle,  and  pass  it  through  a  strainer.  Make  some 
highly-flavored  forcemeat  from  the  flesh  off  the  legs,  put  it  into  a  well-buttered  plain 
border  mould,  and  place  it  in  the  bain-marie  to  poach.  In  the  meantime,  boil  a 
pickled  beef  tongue  in  salted  water,  and  keep  it  hot;  peel  fifteen  small  raw  truffles, 
and  keep  them  covered  over  until  wanted.  Next  prepare  some  stock  with  the  bones 
of  the  birds,  vegetables,  sweet  herbs,  white  wine  .and  broth.  When  cooked  strain  it, 
add  the  truffle  trimmings  and  reduce  it  to  half  glaze;  add  its  equal  bulk  of  brown 
sauce  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes  ;  then  pass  it  through  a  cloth  into  another  smaller 
saucepan,  put  in  the  raw  truffles,  add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry  and  boil 
again  very  slowly  for  eight  or  nine  minutes.  Now  pour  the  clarified  butter  into  a  flat 
saucepan,  put  the  fillets  in  close  to  each  other,  place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  cook 
them  on  both  sides  for  about  two  minutes,  then  take  them  out  and  drain  well.  Take 
out  the  tongue,  drain,  skin  and  cut  it  up,  in  a  slanting  direction,  into  as  many  slices 
as  there  are  fillets,  shaping  them  like  these.  Now  turn  the  border  out  onto  a  dish, 
and  place  the  fillets  and  slices  of  tongue,  glazed  with  a  paste  brush,  alternately 
around  it,  with  the  truffles  in  the  center.  Pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  truffles, 
and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  boat. 


29o  POULTRY. 

Chicken    Fillets,  Sauted. 

Cut  off  nine  fillets  of  chickens,  pound  them  lightly  with  a  vegetable  masher,  dust 
over  with  salt  and  pepper  and  cover  well  with  flour.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
for  each  fillet  into  a  fryingpan;  when  it  is  quite  hot  put  in  the  fillets  and  fry  them  for 
twenty  minutes,  turning  them  so  that  both  sides  will  be  browned.  Take  them  out  and 
put  them  in  front  of  the  fire  to  keep  warm.  To  every  six  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
used  add  two  more  to  the  pan,  and  wKen  it  is  melted  mix  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour; 
as  soon  as  this  begins  to  brown  add  gradually  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of 
cold  milk,  stirring  continually;  boil  for  a  minute  and  add  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  mus- 
tard. Put  a  pile  of  mashed  potatoes  or  green  peas  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  place  the 
fillets  against  it,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  around. 

Chicken    Fillets   Sauted,  Royal   Style. 

Cut  off  the  fillets  of  two  chickens,  which  will  be  four  large  ones  and  four  small, 
called  minion  fillets,  being  the  inside  fillets,  and  flatten  them  a  little  with  the  handle 
of  a  knife  dipped  in  water.  Remove  the  coarse  upper  skin,  take  out  the  sinews  from 
the  small  fillets  and  dip  each  one  separately  into  butter;  then  sprinkle  them  overwith 
salt,  put  them  into  a  sautepan,  and  fry  lightly.  When  done  take  them  out,  drain  and 
put  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish.  Add  a  little  cream  and  one  tablespoonful  or  so  of 
well-seasoned  bechamel  sauce  to  the  butter  in  the  pan.  Let  it  thicken  over  the  fire 
for  a  while  and  pour  it  over  the  fillets.  Prepare  a  garnishing  of  kidneys,  mushrooms, 
quenelles,  cockscombs  and  truffles.  Place  them  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Chicken    Fillets   Sauted   with   Truffle   Sauce. 

Cut  the  fillets  off  two  chickens,  separating  the  smaller  from  the  larger  ones,  trim 
and  put  in  a  sautepan  with  a  pat  of  butter  and  fry  slowly,  keeping  them  white;  pour 
about  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of 
white  stock  and  boil  until  thickly  reduced;  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into 
another  saucepan,  add  four  or  five  sliced  truffles  and  boil  up  again;  then  mix  in  a  half 
teacupful  of  thick  cream,  and  season  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  sugar.  When 
cooked  put  the  fillets  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Chicken    Fillets,  Villeroy. 

Take  the  fillets  from  four  chickens  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper;  put 
them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter  to  cook,  taking  care  to  let  them  be  rather 
underdone.  Place  them  on  a  board  with  another  one  on  the  top  and  a  slight  weight 
onto  that;  afterward  cut  them  into  shapes.  Take  them  one  at  a  time  and  dip  into 
hot  chaudfroid  sauce  and  put  them  on  a  baking  sheet  at  a  little  distance  from  one 
another.  Let  them  get  quite  cool,  remove  the  superfluous  sauce,  cover  them  first 


POULTRY.  291 

with  breadcrumbs,  then  dip  them  into  egg  and  then  into  crumbs  again.  Put  a  few  of 
them  at  a  time  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  and  as  soon  as  they  are  of  a  fine  color 
take  them  out  and  put  them  in  a  circle  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  placing  a  little 
parsley,  slightly  fried,  in  the  center. 

Chicken    Fillets  with   Asparagus. 

Take  two  fat  birds  and  cut  them  up  so  that  the  breast  and  breast-bone  will  be 
one  piece  and  the  back  and  legs  another.  Put  the  back  parts  into  a  saucepan  with 
one  gallon  of  water,  and,  when  it  boils,  add  the  breasts.  When  these  have  boiled  for 
an  hour  or  so  and  are  quite  tender,  take  them  out  and  let  them  cool.  Put  a  few  vege- 
tables in  the  liquor  and  boil  fast  until  it  is  reduced  to  one-half  its  original  bulk;  then 
strain  it  through  a  cloth  into  another  saucepan  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  each  of 
butter  and  flour  previously  worked  together  in  a  pan  over  the  fire,  to  thicken  it,  and 
place  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  fire  where  its  contents  will  simmer  gently.  Skim 
frequently,  and  when  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one  quart  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of 
mushroom  liquor,  prepared  by  boiling  button  mushrooms  in  stock.  Reduce  again, 
and  when  it  is  less  than  one  quart  and  getting  thick  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
a  little  lemon  juice,  salt  and  cayenne.  Have  in  the  meantime  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
cream  boiling,  add  it  to  the  liquor  in  the  other  pan  a  little  at  a  time  to  make  it  the 
required  consistence  and  then  pass  all  through  a  strainer.  Cut  the  meat  away  from 
the  breastbone  and  trim  it  into  shape,  plunge  the  pieces  into  boiling  chicken  broth  to 
get  thoroughly  warmed  through,  place  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 
Cut  from  the  stalks  some  asparagus  heads,  boil  them  in  salted  water  like  peas,  drain, 
shake  in  a  pan  with  melted  butter,  and  place  on  the  dish  with  the  fillets. 

Chicken    Fillets,  with   Mushroom    Puree. 

Roast  three  chickens,  having  them  not  quite  done.  Remove  them  from  the 
spit,  let  them  get  cold  and  then  lift  off  the  fillets  from  the  backs,  also  the  legs  and 
the  breasts,  trimming  and  taking  off  all  the  skin.  Put  three  teacupfuls  of  yellow 
sauce  into  a  pan  with  a  teacupful  and  a  half  of  aspic  jelly,  both  slightly  warmed.  Place 
the  pan  on  the  ice  and  stir  until  moderately  thick;  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  ice, 
dip  the  pieces  of  fowl  singly  into  the  sauce,  covering  them  entirely,  and  arrange  them 
side  by  side  on  a  baking  sheet.  Fill  a  border  mould  with  cooked  rice,  let  it  set, 
turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  fill  the  center  with  a  puree  of  mushroom,  heaping  it  up. 
Arrange  the  fillets  around  on  top  of  the  border. 

Chicken    Fricassee. 

Take  a  chicken  weighing  about  three  pounds,  cut  it  into  pieces  and  steep  these 
in  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Drain  and  put  them  in  a  large  saucepan  pan  with  an 
onion  with  three  cloves  stuck  in  it,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  saltspoonful  each  of 


292  POULTRY. 

salt  and  pepper,  and  one  quart  of  water.  When  the  water  boils  skim  it,  move  it  to 
the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour  with  the  lid  partly  off.  Take 
out  the  pieces  of  fowl,  drain  and  let  them  cool  for  a  few  minutes  in  cold  water.  Keep 
the  liquor  in  which  they  were  cooked.  Put  three  tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and 
flour  in  a  stewpan,  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  smooth,  but  not  brown;  add  the  broth 
and  the  liquor  in  which  a  can  of  mushrooms  have  been  cooked,  and  simmer  for  half 
an  hour.  Warm  the  pieces  of  fowl  in  half  a  pint  of  the  sauce  in  a  separate  pan.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and  stir  the  sauce  over 
the  fire  until  thick,  but  not  boiling;  strain  the  gravy  and  then  add  the  mushrooms. 
Put  the  two  back  pieces  of  the  fowl  in  the  middle  of  the  dish  and  arrange  on  them 
one  above  the  other,  first  the  feet,  then  the  two  pieces  of  neck,  and  lastly  the 
pinions.  Rest  the  legs  and  wings  against  the  sides  of  the  square  and  put  the  pieces 
of  breast  on  the  top.  Arrange  the  mushrooms  round  the  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce, 
and  serve. 

Chicken    Fricassee,  American   Style. 

Boil  two  fowls,  cut  them  into  twelve  pieces,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  eight 
minced  mushrooms,  one  ounce  of  cooked  salted  pork  cut  into  small  squares,  and  half 
a  pint  of  allemande  sauce.  Warm  thoroughly  without  boiling,  and  serve  with  any 
desired  garnish. 

Chicken    Fricassee,  Bonne   Femme. 

Prepare  and  cut  a  chicken  up  as  for  a  fricassee;  slice  an  onion  and  a  carrot,  put 
them  in  a  large  stewpan  with  six  ounces  of  butter  and'  fry  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
contiuually.  Put  in  the  chicken  and  one  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper  and 
stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes  longer;  then  work  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
stir  for  two  or  three  minutes,  add  three  or  four  tomatoes  cut  in  pieces  and  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  broth.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side 
and  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Take  a  pint  and  a  half  of  mushrooms  cut  in  slices  and 
some  chopped  parsley,  and  put  into  the  liquor;  boil  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Serve 
on  a  hot  dish. 

Chicken    Fricassee,  Peasant   Style. 

Cut  into  slices  or  small  pieces  a  few  onions,  carrots  and  celery  roots  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  olive  oil  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  being  careful 
that  the  vegetables  are  fresh  and  tender.  Cut  up  two  fowls  into  five  pieces  each,  put 
the  legs  in  the  saucepan  over  the  vegetables,  sprinkle  over  cayenne  to  taste,  add  a 
little  sauce  and  set  the  pan  over  a  good  fire  for  five  minutes  or  so  to  cook;  then  take 
the  pan  off  the  fire,  cover  and  put  it  in  a  hot  oven  so  that  the  legs  will  be  slowly  and 
thoroughly  done.  Turn  them  often  and  then  add  the  fillets  and  pieces  of  breast  and 
a  couple  of  large  tomatoes  wfth  the  seeds  taken  out  and  each  one  cut  into  six  pieces: 
cover  the  pan  over  again,  return  to  the  oven  and  let  it  remain  for  fifteen  minutes 


POULTRY.  295 

longer;  take  it  out  and  place  the  pieces  of  chicken-meat  in  a  pile  on  a  dish.  Remove 
the  fat  from  the  liquor,  take  out  the  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  put  in  a  few  blanched 
olives;  thicken  with  a  little  melted  glaze,  boil  up  once,  add  a  small  quantity  of  finely- 
minced  tarragon  leaves,  pour  all  over  the  chicken  in  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Fried   Chicken. 

Take  a  chicken,  pluck,  singe  and  wipe  it  with  a  wet  towel,  and  cut  in  joints.  Put 
into  a  fryingpan  one  pint  of  cream  and  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire  until  it  begins  to 
color,  then  put  in  the  chicken  and  fry  until  the  underside  is  of  a  light  brown.  Take 
out  a  part  of  the  cream,  turn  the  chicken  over,  season  with  pepper,  and  finish  cooking 
it.  Put  it  on  a  hot  dish  when  done,  and  pour  the  cream  which  was  taken  out  back 
into  the  fryingpan,  stir  it  well  with  what  remains  in  the  pan,  let  it  boil  once,  and  serve 
it  with  the  chicken  sprinkled  with  salt.  A  small  chicken  may  be  breaded,  either 
whole  or  in  quarters,  and  fried  brown  in  smoking  fat. 

Fried  Chicken,  Marengo  Style. 

Cut  up  a  chicken  and  trim  the  pieces.  Put  plenty  of  oil  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
minced  clove  of  garlic  and  a  small  bundle  of  sweet  herbs;  when  boiling  put  in  the 
pieces  of  fowl,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  them.  When  cooked  strain  nearly 
one  teacupful  of  oil  from  the  saucepan  into  a  small  stewpan;  mix  with  it  a  moderate 
quantity  each  of  finely-chopped  mushrooms,  shallots  and  parsley,  and  one  wine-glass- 
ful of  white  wine  and  sufficient  clear  stock,  freed  from  fat,  to  make  the  sauce.  Season 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  the  sauce  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  Pile 
the  pieces  of  fowl  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  garnish  with  croutons  of 
bread  fried  brown  in  butter,  and  some  button  mushrooms,  and  serve. 

Fried    Chicken,  Mercier   Style. 

Pluck  a  chicken,  clean  and  truss  as  if  for  roasting,  sprinkle  it  well  with  flour, 
plunge  it  into  boiling  fat  to  cover,  and  fry  for  fully  twenty  minutes.  Take  it  out, 
drain  and  cut  it  into  joints,  cover  them  over  separately  with  rich  forcemeat  beaten  up 
with  egg,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  for  the  forcemeat  to  set.  In 
the  meantime  whip  the  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  color  this  with 
three  colors,  leaving  a  part  white,  decorate  the  forcemeat  with  these,  place  the  pieces 
of  fowl  in  the  oven  for  a  moment  to  set,  and  serve  immediately. 

Fried   Chicken,  Vanderbilt   Style. 

Prepare  and  clean  a  chicken,  and  commencing  from  the  neck,  rem6ve  the  skin 
from  the  flesh  all  around,  including  the  legs;  then  stuff  it  with  veal  and  tongue  force- 
meat, taking  care  not  to  fill  it  too  full,  only  over  the  wishbone,  and  to  fill  all  the 
cavities,  making  it  plump  and  round.  Then  truss  it  as  if  for  roasting,  plunge  into 


294  POULTRY. 

boiling  fat  sufficient  to  cover  it,  and  fry  a  golden  brown.     Serve  hot  with  piquant 
sauce,  or  cold,  with  salad. 

Fried   Chicken   with   Okras. 

Take  a  very  tender  chicken,  clean  and  cut  into  joints  suitable  for  frying,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Wash  two  dozen  pods  of  okras  and  slice 
them  thinly,  throwing  away  the  stems.  Peel  and  slice  one  medium-sized  onion;  cut  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  ham  in  half-inch  dice  and  chop  one  small  green  or  red  fresh 
pepper,  very  fine.  First  fry  the  chicken  and  ham  brown,  putting  them  into  enough 
smoking  hot  lard  to  half  cover  them;  then  add  the  okras,  onion  and  pepper  and 
enough  broth,  cold  gravy,  or  boiling  water  to  cover  all.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
stew  gently  until  both  chicken  and  vegetables  are  quite  tender.  If  the  broth  becomes 
thicker  while  cooking  than  ordinary  gravy,  add  to  it  a  little  boiling  water.  Fried 
oysters  may  be  added  to  the  preparation  just  before  serving.  It  is  usual  to  serve  a 
dish  of  plain  boiled  rice  with  this  dish. 

Chicken    Fritters. 

Take  a  cold  roasted  chicken  and  mince  the  white  meat  fine.  Beat  four  eggs 
with  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  one  pint  of  cream,  and  then  stir  in  sufficient  ground  rice 
to  make  a  thin  batter.  Put  the  minced  chicken  in  the  batter  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  finely-shredded  candied  lemon  peel,  the  grated  peel  of  one  fresh  lemon,  and 
sweeten  to  taste  with  caster-sugar.  Then  turn  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  over  the  fire 
with  a  wooden  spoon.  Leave  the  mixture  until  cool  when  cooked,  then  roll  it  out, 
and  cut  it  into  small  rounds.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  and  make  it  hot; 
then  put  in  the  fritters  and  fry  them  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  them,  lay  on  a 
folded  napkin,  sift  powdered  sugar  over,  and  serve. 

Chicken   Giblet   Pie. 

Put  into  a  pie  dish  some  stewed  chicken  giblets  together  with  the  meat  from  the 
necks  and  pinions  of  the  fowls.  Place  them  in  layers  with  slices  of  fat  bacon  between 
until  the  dish  is  full,  pour  in  a  little  good  gravy,  cover  the  dish  with  a  crust  of  mashed 
potatoes;  bake  in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Stewed   Chicken   Giblets. 

Wash  the  giblets  from  four  or  five  chickens,  dry  on  a  cloth,  and  sprinkle  over 
with  flour;  fry  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter.  Cut  the  gizzards  in  slices, 
put  them  in  the  saucepan  with  the  giblets,  add  six  onions  cut  up  small  and  slightly 
browned,  and  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  then  pour  over  sufficient  stock  to  cover, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  pan  over  a  moderate  fire  where  it  will 


POULTRY.  295 

simmer  for  about  an  hour.  When  the  giblets  are  perfectly  done,  drain  them  out, 
pass  the  gravy  through  a  strainer  and  remove  all  the  fat.  Rub  the  onions  through  a 
fine  sieve  and  mix  with  them  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  then  stir  them  into  the  gravy, 
boil  up  again,  add  the  giblets,  and  let  it  remain  until  perfectly  hot,  then  serve. 

Grilled   Chickens,  Hunter's   Style. 

Select  small  chickens  for  this.  Split  them  down  the  backs  and  beat  them  with 
a  cutlet  bat  until  flat.  Should  the  birds  be  large  they  must  be  cut  into  joints.  Soak 
them  for  an  hour  in  olive  oil  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  slices  of  onion,  parsley 
and  lemon  juice;  sprinkle  lightly  with  breadcrumbs  and  cook  them  on  a  gridiron.  If 
cut  up  into  joints  dish  them  up  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid.  Add  to  some  Madeira 
sauce  a  sliced  onion,  fried,  and  some  chopped  ham;  warm  it  up,  pour  over  the  chick- 
ens, and  serve. 

Hashed   Chicken. 

Put  the  bones  and  small  pieces  of  any  kind  of  cooked  chickens  into  a  saucepan 
with  cold  water  enough  to  cover,  add  a  few  sliced  fried  onions,  two  carrots,  sweet 
herbs,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place  the  pan  over  the  fire  and 
boil  until  all  the  goodness  is  extracted;  then  strain  the  liquor  and  add  a  little 
flour  and  butter  to  thicken  it.  Put  into  a  saucepan  the  chicken-meat,  add  the  gravy 
and  place  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  fire  where  it  will  simmer  for  twenty  minutes; 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  just  before  serving.  Put  the  pieces  of  chicken 
on  a  dish,  pour  the  gravy  over  and  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Chickens  in   Shells. 

Cut  the  fillets  of  some  chickens  into  scollops,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a 
piece  of  butter  and  fry  them  lightly.  Cook  an  equal  quantity  of  truffles  in  Madeira 
wine  and  when  done  divide  them  the  same  size  as  the  scollops.  Mix  these  together 
with  some  reduced  German  sauce,  grate  finely  some  breadcrumb  and  fry  in  butter 
until  brown.  Fill  eight  shells  with  the  chicken  mixture,  cover  them  with  the  fried 
breadcrumbs  and  put  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  moderately  warm  oven.  Arrange 
the  shells  on  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with 
fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Chicken  Legs. 

Take  the  legs  of  some  cold  chickens,  remove  the  skin,  cut  the  flesh  on  both  sides 
of  the  bone  and  spread  over  them  a  preparation  made  of  half  a  teaspoonful  each  of 
salt  and  pepper,  a  little  cayenne,  half  an  ounce  of  warmed  butter  and  one  saltspoonful 
of  essence  of  anchovies,  all  well  mixed.  When  this  is  rubbed  into  the  meat,  especially 
into  the  cuts,  place  them  over  a  rather  slow  fire  on  a  gridiron,  and  broil  them  for  about 


296  POULTRY. 

ten  minutes,  turning  them   occasionally.     They  are  then  ready  for  serving.     A  little 
cooked  bacon  should  be  served  with  them. 


Deviled   Chicken's   Legs. 


Cut  off  the  legs  from  three  chickens  and  singe  them  slightly  with  a  little  alcohol 
lighted  on  a  plate,  put  them  into  the  stockpot  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Remove 
them  to  a  dish,  cool  thoroughly,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  very  little  cayenne; 
also  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mus- 
tard. Now  roll  them  well  together,  pass  one  after  another  into  sifted  breadcrumbs, 
and  broil  them  on  a  moderate  fire  for  four  minutes  on  each  side.  Then  arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  one  gill  of  hot  deviled  sauce,  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley 
on  the  top,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Chicken   Legs  in    Papers. 


Take  some  cold  cooked  chickens  and  bone  the  legs.  Mix  some  chopped  parsley, 
pepper  and  salt  with  a  little  liquefied  butter  and  dip  the  legs  in  it;  put  on  each  side  of 
them  a  slice  of  cooked  fat  pork,  wrap  them  in  buttered  paper,  securing  it  at  the  edges 
and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  to  cook  both  sides  alike.  When  done  dish 
them,  pour  over  hot  beef  gravy,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 


Chicken  Legs,   Perigueux. 


Cut  off  the  legs  from  four  chickens,  bone  them  without  cutting  the  skin,  sprinkle 
over  with  salt  and  pepper,  fill  them  with  either  cooked  chicken  forcemeat  or  quenelle 
forcemeat  mixed  with  sweet  herbs;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  gravy  mixed 
with  white  wine,  place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently.  Take  them  out  when  done 
and  lay  them  between  two  boards  with  a  weight  on  top;  when  perfectly  cold,  trim 
and  arrange  in  a  flat  saucepan,  adding  a  little  of  the  stock  in  which  they  were  cooked 
reduced  to  half  glaze;  place  the  pan  over  a  very  slow  fire  and  warm  thoroughly.  Take 
them  out  and  place  a  paper  frill  on  the  small  end  of  each  and  put  them  on  a  dish  in  a 
circle.  Add  four  or  five  peeled  and  chopped  raw  truffles  to  the  liquor,  one  wineglass- 
ful  of  Madeira  and  a  little  boiling  brown  sauce,  and,  after  standing  it  on  the  fire  a  few 
minutes,  pour  it  all  over  the  stuffed  legs,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Livers  in   Cases. 

Take  eight  fat  livers,  remove  the  gall,  trim  off  all  the  green  part,  plunge  them  into 
boiling  water  and  poach  without  boiling;  drain,  pare  slightly  and  cut  each  into  halves. 
Put  with  the  trimmings  of  these  livers  a  few  more  livers  in  a  fryingpan,  add  a  little 
lard,  and  fry  them;  when  cool,  put  them  in  a  mortar  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fat 
bacon  finely  chopped,  pound,  sprinkle  in  pepper,  salt  and  spices,  pass  it  through  a 
sieve  and  then  mix  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  quenelle  forcemeat,  two  tablespoon- 


POULTRY.  297 

fuls  each  of  sweet  herbs  and  onions,  four  tablespoonfuls  each  of  truffles  and  mush- 
rooms, all  finely  chopped;  mix  with  this  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  glaze;  take 
eight  cases,  either  square  or  round,  oil  and  line  them  inside  with  half  of  the  above 
mixture.  Fry  the  livers  in  a  little  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine  over 
a  quick  fire.  When  the  wine  is  reduced  take  out  the  livers,  put  them  on  a  plate,  dip 
a  paste  brush  with  melted  glaze  and  brush  them  over  with  it.  Cut  each  of  the  halves 
of  livers  in  halves  again,  put  two  pieces  in  each  of  the  cases,  cover  them  with  a  layer 
of  forcemeat,  put  a  piece  of  paper  dipped  in  oil  over  each,  then  stand  the  cases  on  a 
baking  sheet,  and  warm  them  at  the  entrance  of  a  moderate  oven.  Put  the  cases  of 
liver  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  reduced  brown  sauce  over  each,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Livers  on  Skewers. 

Take  the  livers  of  eighteen  chickens,  clean,  cut  away  the  galls  and  dry  them  well 
with  a  cloth;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  cut  each  liver  into  halves.  In  the 
meantime  cut  off  six  slices  of  lean  bacon  and  broil  them  for  one  minute,  then  cut 
each  slice  into  six  pieces.  Take  six  silver  skewers  (attelettes),  run  one  through  the 
center  of  the  liver,  next  a  piece  of  bacon,  and  continue  in  this  way  until  the  six 
skewers  are  filled  with  the  pieces  of  liver  and  bacon.  Roll  them  in  a  tablespoonful 
of  oil,  dip  them  into  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  put  them  on  a  moderate  fire  to  broil  for 
five  minutes  on  each  side.  Arrange  them  on  a  hot'  dish,  pour  over  half  a  gill  of 
maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  serve  with  a  little  watercress  for  garnish. 

Chicken   Livers  Stewed  in  Madeira  Wine. 

Take  the  livers  of  ten  or  twelve  fowls,  cut  away  the  galls,  dry  them  with  a  cloth 
and  fry  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  over  a  brisk  fire  for  five  minutes ; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper;  add  a  half  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine,  reduce  for  one 
minute,  then  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  and  cook  again  for  three 
minutes;  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  tossing  the  pan 
without  letting  the  contents  boil.  Pour  the  whole  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  garnished 
with  six  croutons  of  bread. 

Chickens'  Livers  Stewed  with  Mushrooms. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  fowl's  livers  stewed  in  Madeira  wine;  adding  three  min- 
utes before  serving  six  sliced  mushrooms. 

Minced  Chicken,  Polish  Style. 

Take  some  pieces  of  cold  fowl,  mince  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  bechamel 
sauce  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot,  but  not  boiling.  Garnish  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread. 


298  POULTRY. 

Minced   Chicken   with   Eggs. 

Take  a  cold  cooked  chicken,  remove  the  skin,  separate  the  flesh  from  the  bones 
and  cut  it  into  small  pieces;  put  the  bones  and  trimmings  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  stock,  a  small  onion  stuck  with  two  or  three  cloves,  and  a  small  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs.  Boil  the  stock  for  an  hour,  then  strain  it  into  a  clean  stewpan,  skim 
off  all  the  fat,  put  in  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  keep  them  simmering  at  the  edge  of 
the  fire.  When  the  bird  is  tender,  mix  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  a  small  quantity 
of  milk  and  stir  it  into  the  stock,  letting  it  simmer,  but  not  allowing  it  to  boil.  Add 
one  teaspoonful  of  chutney  to  the  sauce  and  more  seasoning  if  required,  and  turn  the 
whole  out  onto  a  dish.  Break  carefully  over  the  top  as  many  eggs  as  will  just  cover 
the  mince,  but  do  not  crowd  them,  and  be  very  careful  not  to  damage  the  yolks; 
strew  a  few  sifted  breadcrumbs  lightly  over  the  top,  dust  over  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  put  them  in  the  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set,  but  taking  care  not  to  let  them  get 
hard.  When  ready,  take  the  dish  out  of  the  oven,  and  serve  garnished  with  croutons 
of  fried  bread. 

Chicken   Patties. 

Take  some  patty-pans  and  line  with  puff  paste  and  bake  to  a  light  brown. 
Take  any  remains  of  cold  roasted  chickens  and  their  stuffing,  put  bones  and  stuffing 
into  a  saucepan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water,  and  stew  slowly.  Mince  the 
chicken  very  fine.  When  the  gravy,  made  of  the  stuffing  and  bones,  is  reduced  to  a 
quarter  of  a  pint,  strain  and  put  it  on  the  fire  again,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk, 
one  ounce  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Let  this  boil  for  a 
few  minutes,  stir  in  the  minced  chicken  and  let  it  get  very  hot  but  do  not  let  it  boil 
after  the  chicken  is  added.  Turn  the  paste  out  of  the  tins,  arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  fill 
them  with  the  minced  chicken,  taking  care  that  it  is  stirred  thoroughly.  Serve  very 
hot. 

Chicken   Pot   Pie. 

Cut  a  chicken  weighing  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  pounds  into  twelve  equal 
pieces;  put  these  in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  cold  water  and  leave  them  in  for  thirty 
minutes.  Then  wash  them  well,  drain  and  return  to  the  pan.  Cover  again  with  fresh 
water,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  six  small 
onions  and  four  ounces  of  salted  pork  cut  into  square  pieces,  and  cook  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  taking  care  to  skim  well  ;  add  one  pint  of  raw  potatoes  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  diluted  with  a  breakfast  cupful  of  water.  Stir  until  it 
boils,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Remove  the  parsley  and  transfer  the  whole  to  a 
deep  earthenware  baking-dish,  then  moisten  the  edges  of  this  slightly  with  water, 
and  cover  the  top  with  crust.  Brush  the  surface  over  with  egg,  make  a  few  trans- 
verse lines  in  the  paste  with  a  fork,  and  cut  a  hole  in  the  center.  Bake  in  a  brisk 
oven  for  fifteen  minutes  and  send  to  the  table. 


POULTRY.  299 

Chicken  Pilau,  Turkish  Style. 

Take  a  chicken  weighing,  two  pounds,  singe  and  draw,  wipe  it  well,  and  cut  it 
into  twelve  pieces  of  equal  size.  Put  these  into  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter, 
and  brown;  add  one  chopped  onion  and  one  chopped  green  pepper,  and  cook  for  six 
minutes,  stirring  lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Moisten  with  a  pint  of  rich  chicken 
broth  and  one  gill  of  tomato  sauce,  and  add  two  ounces  of  dried  mushrooms  that 
have  been  soaking  in  water  for  several  hours,  or  twelve  canned  mushrooms,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  diluted  saffron.  When  incor- 
porated add  half  a  pint  of  well-washed  uncooked  rice  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Cook  for  twenty  minutes  more,  and  serve. 

Stuffed   Chicken   Quenelles. 

Place  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  basin,  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  soak  it  for 
an  hour.  Trim  off  all  the  skin  from  the  flesh  of  a  chicken,  pick  the  meat  from  the 
bones,  chop  it  fine,  and  pound  in  a  mortar  until  it  is  smooth  ;  then  stir  in  with  it  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  and  pounded  pork,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Put  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  stale  breadcrumbs  and  milk  in  a  small  saucepan, 
and  boil  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  at  the  same  time  to  keep  it  smooth.  Mix  the  bread- 
crumbs with  the  pounded  meat,  season  with  one  teaspoonful  each  of  lemon  juice  and 
onion  juice,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste ;  add  six  ounces  of  warmed  butter,  one 
teacupful  of  white  stock  or  cream,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  finally  the  well- 
beaten  whites,  and  work  the  mixture  till  it  is  quite  smooth.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  into  a  saucepan  together  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  smooth  but  not  browned,  stir  in  by  degrees  one  pint  of  cream,  one 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  little  mace,  plenty  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  for 
two  minutes  ;  then  stir  in  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  remove  it  from  the  stove.  Mix 
three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cold  cooked  chicken  in  the  sauce,  and  stand  it  one  side  till 
cool.  Butter  eighteen  egg  cups,  line  them  with  a  thick  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  fill 
the  center  with  the  chicken  and  sauce  mixture  (it  should  have  become  fairly  firm), 
then  cover  it  with  the  forcemeat.  Stand  the  egg  cups  in  a  steamer,  place  a  sheet  of 
paper  over  them,  place  the  cover  on  the  steamer,  set  it  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water  and  steam  the  quenelles  for  thirty  minutes  or  so  without  letting  the  water 
boil  too  rapidly.  When  cooked  remove  them  from  the  pan  and  stand  them  one 
side  till  done.  Turn  the  quenelles  out  of  the  egg-cups,  dip  them  well  in  beaten  eggs 
and  breadcrumbs  and  fry  for  three  minutes  in  boiling  fat  to  lightly  color  them. 
Drain  the  quenelles,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  stoned  olives,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Rissoles. 

Make  a  well  flavored  mixture  of  mushrooms,  pickled  tongue  and  the  meat  of  a 
cold  fowl,  all  cooked ;  thicken  with  a  little  bechamel  sauce  reduced  with  glaze,  and 


300 


POULTRY. 


set  it  in  a  basin  to  cool.  Prepare  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste  and  roll  it 
out  into  long,  thin  strips  with  the  edges  trimmed,  then  take  a  little  of  the  mixture  at 
a  time  with  a  small  spoon  and  place  it  at  intervals  on  the  paste,  leaving  about  one 
inch  clear  from  the  edge.  Wet  the  edge  of  the  paste  and  fold  it  over  so  as  to  com- 
pletely cover  in  the  chicken  mixture  ;  then  with  a  channeled  paste-cutter  cut  the 
paste  into  rissoles,  having  the  meat  in  the  center  of  the  cutter.  Roll  out  the  rest  of 
the  paste,  and  continue  until  all  the  rissoles  are  made.  Dip  each  one  separately  into 
well-beaten  egg  and  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  of  fat  over  a  slow  fire.  When  done  take 
them  out,  put  them  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Roast  Chicken. 

Take  a  chicken,  clean,  singe,  and  remove  the  pin  feathers;  then  wipe  it  clean, 
stuff  and  truss  it.  Rub  it  over  with  a  mixture  of  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  warmed 
butter,  and  put  it  into  a  bakingpan  with  a  little  chicken  fat  or  dripping,  and  set  it  in 
the  oven.  When  the  flour  is  well  browned,  reduce  the  heat  of  the  oven,  baste  well 
with  its  fat,  and  afterward  with  three  or  four  ounces  of  butter  melted  in  a  breakfast 
cupful  of  boiling  water.  When  the  chicken  is  brown  on  one  side,  turn  it  over  on  the 
other,  so  as  to  color  it  well  all  over,  adding  a  little  more  water  if  there  should  not  be 
sufficient  to  baste  with.  A  bird  weighing  from  four  and  a  half  to  five  pounds  will 
take  about  an  hour  and  a  half  to  bake. 

Roasted  Chicken,  Maryland  Style. 

Take  two  small  chickens,  detach  their  legs  and  wings  and  lay  them  on  a  plate; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  sifted  breadcrumbs,  and 
place  them  in  a  buttered  pan.  Pour  over  an  ounce  of  clarified  butter  and  roast  in  the 
oven  for  eighteen  minutes.  Pour  half  a  pint  of  cream  sauce  on  to  a  hot  dish,  arrange 
the  chickens  on  top,  decorate  with  six  thin  slices  of  broiled  bacon,  also  six  small  corn 
fritters,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Roasted   Chicken  with    Chestnut  Stuffing. 

Dress  two  small  chickens  and  boil  gently  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  until  tender. 
While  they  are  cooking,  either  boil  or  roast  sufficient  chestnuts  to  fill  it.  If  the  nuts 
are  roasted,  make  a  cross  cut  on  each  to  prevent  the  bursting  of  the  shell.  Remove 
the  shells  and  skins  of  the  chestnuts,  fill  the  chicken  with  them,  and  brown  it  quickly 
in  a  hot  oven,  basting  it  every  few  minutes  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper  mixed 
together.  Serve  when  sufficiently  brown. 

Roasted   Chicken   with   Oyster  Sauce. 

Pick  and  draw  two  chickens;  chop  fine  a  sufficient  quantity  of  oysters  with 
truffles  to  fill  them,  season  with  chopped  parsley,  spices,  salt  and  pepper,  and  stuff 


POULTRY. 


301 


the  birds  with  the  mixture;  then  truss  them,  lay  them  in  a  baking-pan,  pour  butter 
over,  and  roast  in  the  oven.  Blanch  twenty  or  thirty  oysters,  put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  lump  of  butter,  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  herbs,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
olive  oil,  and  toss  them  about  over  the  fire  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Mix  one  wine- 
glassful  of  white  wine  and  about  a  teacupful  of  stock  with  the  oysters,  put  in  half  an 
ounce  of  butter  kneaded  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  thick.  When  the  chickens  are  cooked,  remove  them  from  the  oven,  untruss, 
place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  oysters  around  with  slices  of  lemon,  pour  the 
sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Sauted. 

The  Dubois  method  of  preparing  this  dish  is  as  follows:  Put  into  a  stewpan 
some  peeled  truffles  with  a  wineglassful  of  wine  and  a  little  salt,  place  the  pan  on  the 
fire  and  boil,  but  do  not  do  so  until  just  previous  to  using  them.  Put  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  mushrooms  in  a  saucepan  and  boil  them,  adding  a  little  butter  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon.  Take  a  couple  of  fat  chickens,  singe,  draw  and  cut  off  the  pinions  and 
claws,  and  remove  the  legs.  Cut  the  breast  up  so  as  to  have  two  fillets  and  a  breast 
part.  Chop  the  bones  of  the  body  in  halves  and  break  the  thick  bones  of  the  leg 
with  a  knife  and  take  them  out.  Place  the  legs  in  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter, 
arrange  them  at  the  bottom,  then  put  the  neck,  pinions  and  bones  from  the  body, 
season  them  with  salt  and  pepper  and  place  the  pan  on  the  fire  so  that  they  will  fry 
slowly.  When  they  are  about  half  cooked  put  in  the  fillets  and  breast  parts,  also  a 
little  parsley,  sweet  herbs  and  a  clove  of  garlic;  when  the  meat  is  set  remove  it  from 
the  pan  with  a  skimmer,  put  it  into  another  sautepan  and  stir  in  the  truffles;  remove 
the  fat  from  the  first  sautepan,  put  in  the  truffle  trimmings  and  a  wine-glassful  of 
white  wine,  boil  for  a  few  minutes  and  then  add  twice  its  bulk  of  brown  sauce  and 
the  liquor  in  which  the  truffles  were  cooked.  Boil  this  sauce  quickly  for  ten  min- 
utes or  so;  remove  the  fat  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  onto  the  chicken  meat. 
Warm  the  meat,  taking  care  not  to  let  the  sauce  boil  again.  Put  in  the  center  of  a 
dish  a  croustade  of  fried  bread,  place  the  pinions  and  bones  from  the  body  around  it; 
then  place  the  fillets  and  legs  around  that  again,  and  the  parts  of  the  breast  on  top. 
Garnish  the  base  with  some  truffles  and  mushrooms,  put  a  few  cockscombs  here  and 
there,  remove  the  fat  from  the  sauce,  and  serve  the  meat  with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

Chicken  Saute,  Bordelaise  Style. 

Take  two  chickens,  singe  and  draw,  cut  them  into  twelve  pieces  each  and  put 
them  into  a  sautepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  one  chopped  shallot,  and  let 
brown  well  for  five  minutes;  then  moisten  with  half  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine, 
adding  three  artichoke  bottoms,  each  one  cut  into  four  pieces;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  put  on  the  lid  and  simmer  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of 
meat  glaze  when  about  to  serve,  and  also  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  teaspoonful 


302  POULTRY. 

of  chopped  parsley.      Dish  up  the  pieces,  decorate  with  paper  ruffles  and  garnish  with 
the  artichoke  bottoms  in  clusters  and  twelve  cooked  potatoes. 

Chicken   Sauted,  Hungarian  Style. 

Take  two  fowls,  singe  and  draw.  Cut  them  into  twelve  pieces  and  put  them  into 
a  sautepan  with  one  ounce  of  clarified  butter,  adding  one  finely-chopped  onion  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  slowly  without  browning  for  five  minutes  on 
each  side,  then  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  and  half  a  breakfast  cupful 
of  cream  and  cook  again  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve,  after  first  skimming  off  the  fat, 
with  six  croutons  of  fried  bread  for  a  garnish. 

Chicken  Sauted,  Marengo. 

Singe  two  fowls,  draw  and  cut  them  into  six  pieces  each,  lay  them  in  an  oiled 
stewpan  and  brown  slightly  on  both  sides  for  five  minutes,  seasoning  with  salt  and 
pepper;  when  of  a  golden  color  moisten  with  a  half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  and  half  a 
breakfast  cupful  of  mushroom  liquor;  add  twelve  button  mushrooms  and  two  truffles 
cut  in  thin  slices,  also  half  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine,  cook  for  twenty  minutes, 
and  serve  with  six  fried  eggs  and  six  croutons  of  fried  bread.  Put  paper  ruffles  on 
the  ends  of  the  wings  and  legs  of  the  chickens,  and  serve  with  the  eggs  and  bread 
around  the  edge. 

Chicken  Sauted  with  Tarragon. 

Take  a  raw  chicken  and  cut  into  small  pieces  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Have  a  small  bunch  of  tarragon  and  pick  off  the  leaves;  put  the  stalks  in  a  saucepan 
with  half  a  pint  of  clear  gravy  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes;  blanch  the  leaves.  Put 
into  a  sautepan  some  olive  oil  and  when  boiling  add  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  toss 
them  about  until  cooked  and  browned.  Strain  the  gravy  from  the  tarragon  stalks 
and  mix  the  leaves  with  it.  Place  the  pieces  of  chicken  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  gravy 
over,  and  serve  right  away.  Care  should  be  taken  to  drain  the  oil  off  the  meat  as 
much  as  possible. 

Scalloped  Chicken. 

Put  into  a  shallow  dish  a  layer  of  cold  cooked  chicken,  then  a  layer  of  boiled 
rice  or  macaroni  and  a  little  tomato  sauce  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full.  Sprinkle 
breadcrumbs  over  the  top,  put  the  dish  in  the  oven  and  bake  until  brown. 

Souffles  of  Chicken. 

Cut  off  about  one  pound  of  cold  roasted  fowl,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  pass  it 
through  a  hair  sieve  and  mix  with  it  a  breakfast  cupful  and  a  half  of  reduced  bech- 
amel sauce;  when  cold,  add  the  yolks  and  whites  of  five  eggs  beaten  separately  and  a 


POULTRY.  303 

little  grated  nutmeg.      Fill  some  paper  cases  with  the  mixture  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 

Stewed  Chickens. 

Take  two  chickens,  cut  off  the  feet  and  beat  the  breast  bones  until  flat,  but  with- 
out breaking  the  skin,  and  dredge  them  over  with  a  little  flour.  Put  a  large  lump  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan  and  make  it  hot,  then  put  in  the  chickens  and  fry  them  until 
brown.  Cut  one  pound  of  gravy  beef  and  half  a  pound  of  beefsteak  into  thin  slices, 
drain  the  butter  out  of  the  pan  containing  the  fowls  and  cover  them  with  the  slices  of 
beef;  put  in  a  few  slices  of  carrot  and  onion,  a  bunclj  of  sweet  herbs,  two  or  three 
cloves,  a  small  piece  of  mace  and  a  dust  of  pepper;  pour  over  one  quart  of  boiling 
water,  cover  the  stewpan  closely,  and  stew  the  contents  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Take  out  the  chickens  but  continue  boiling  the  meat  until  a  rich  brown  gravy  is 
formed.  When  the  gravy  is  ready,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  return  it  to  the 
saucepan  again  with  the  chickens,  add  about  a  teaspoonful  of  red  wine  and  keep  it 
over  a  slow  fire  until  the  chickens  are  hot  through  again.  If  desired,  a  few  mush- 
rooms may  be  added,  but  they  must  be  put  in  after  the  gravy  is  strained.  Boil  some 
thin  slices  of  ham  until  slightly  crisped.  Put  the  chickens  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the 
gravy  around  them.  Serve  garnished  with  the  ham  and  sliced  lemons. 

Stewed  Chickens,  Cardinal   Style. 

Soak  two  chickens  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  for  about  an  hour  ;  take  them  out 
and  let  them  drain,  then  lift  up  the  skin  from  the  breasts  and  legs  as  much  as  possible 
without  tearing  it,  and  fill  the  cavity  with  forcemeat  of  fowl,  colored  with  lobster 
spawn  to  a  deep  red  ;  truss  the  fowls  as  if  for  boiling,  cover  them  with  thin  layers 
of  fat  bacon,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  chopped  vegetables,  cover  with  stock 
and  simmer  gently.  Care  must  be  taken  that  they  do  not  boil  fast  or  the  force  will 
burst  the  skin  of  the  fowl,  and  so  look  unsightly  when  served.  Dish  with  an  orna- 
mental croustade  of  fried  bread  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  garnish  with  quenelles  of 
fowls,  both  red  and  white,  glazed  truffles,  cockscombs,  crayfish  tails  and  button 
mushrooms,  and  on  each  side  of  the  croustade  put  a  larded  sweetbread.  Serve  with 
cardinal  sauce  and  garnish  with  ornamental  silver  skewers  set  in  the  croustade. 

Stewed  Chicken,  Matelote  Style. 

Singe  a  fowl,  draw  and  cut  up  in  pieces,  rub  it  with  butter  and  flour  and  brown 
in  an  oven.  Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan  and  in  it  fry  a  carrot,  a 
parsnip  and  an  onion  all  cut  in  slices.  Place  the  fowl  in  a  stewpan  with  the  vegetables 
and  one  quart  of  white  stock.  In  the  butter  in  which  the  vegetables  were  fried  brown 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  this  in  with  the  fowl  ;  mash  the  liver  and  add 
the  chicken,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  capers,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer 


304  POULTRY. 

slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms  cut 
into  small  pieces,  and  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer.  Serve  garnished  with 
mashed  potatoes. 

Stewed  Chicken,  Milanese  Style. 

Pluck,  singe  and  draw  a  chicken,  remove  the  bones  and  dust  the  inside  with  a 
little  salt  and  pepper.  Have  a  stuffing  prepared  in  the  meantime  as  follows:  Chop 
the  yolks  of  eight  hard  boiled  eggs  and  mix  them  with  six  ounces  of  minced  and 
pounded  raw,  lean  ham  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  pork,  and  pass  the  mixture 
through  a  coarse  sieve;  add  two  shallots,  one  tablespoonful  of  parsley,  a  little 
thyme  and  bay  leaf,  all  chopped  fine  and  two  ounces  of  breadcrumbs;  make  this 
into  a  paste  with  two  eggs  and  add  a  dozen  uncooked  oysters.  Sew  the  fowl  up  to 
prevent  the  stuffing  from  coming  out,  tie  up  in  a  well-buttered  cloth,  and  put  it  in  a 
saucepan  with  sufficient  boiling  stock  to  cover,  and  cook  gently  on  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  thirty  minutes  or  so,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bird.  Take  it  out  and  when 
it  is  cool,  remove  the  cloth,  roll  the  chicken  in  flour,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  cover  with 
breadcrumbs,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  boiling  fat  to  cover  it  and  fry  for  about 
ten  minutes.  Serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley,  with  a  little  veloute  sauce  in  a  sauce- 
boat. 

Stewed  Stuffed  Chickens,  Godard. 

Clean  and  prepare  two  chickens,  stuff  them  with  forcemeat,  truss,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  of  white  stock  and  boil  until  tender.  Place  in  the  center  of  a  dish  a  crou- 
stade  of  fried  bread,  untruss  the  fowls  and  put  one  at  each  end  of  the  dish,  leaning 
against  the  croustade.  Garnish  with  truffles,  cockscombs  and  button  mushrooms, 
glazing  the  truffles  and  washing  the  cockscombs  and  mushrooms  with  white  sauce 
reduced  with  mushroom  liquor.  Put  three  skewers,  decorated  with  truffles,  mushrooms 
and  cockscombs  in  the  croustade,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Chickens,  Villeroy. 

Take  a  couple  of  chickens,  draw  and  singe;  remove  the  breast-bones  and  stuff 
them  with  a  mixture  of  butter,  lemon  juice  (the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  will  be  enough), 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  tie  them  up  in  shape  with  string  and  put  into  a  saucepan  of 
water.  Pour  a  little  marechale  sauce  into  another  pan;  also  three  or  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  tarragon  vinegar;  place  this  pan  on  a  sharp  fire  and  let  the  liquor  reduce  quickly 
to  half  its  original  bulk,  then  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce,  sprinkle  a  little 
salt  and  pepper  over  to  taste;  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  mix  thoroughly.  In  the 
meantime  place  some  slices  of  lemon  and  bacon  over  the  chickens  in  the  saucepan  and 
put  a  few  slices  around  them,  place  the  pan  over  a  good  fire  and  cook  for  half  an  hour, 
when  the  meat  should  be  done.  Lay  the  chickens  on  a  dish,  having  previously  re- 
moved the  string  and  drained  them,  add  a  lump  of  butter  to  the  sauce,  work  it  well, 
pour  it  over  them,  and  serve. 


POULTRY.  305 

Stewed  Chicken  with  Asparagus. 

Cut  up  a  chicken  into  quarters,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  to  fry; 
when  it  begins  to  steam,  dust  over  with  flour  and  fry  to  a  pale  brown;  sprinkle  over 
one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  little  salt.  Take  a  couple  of  bunches  of 
asparagus,  break  off  the  tender  parts,  wash  them  well  in  salted  water,  boil  slightly  in 
more  salted  water  and  drain  them;  put  a  lump  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
cream  into  a  saucepan  over  a  slow  fire,  place  half  the  asparagus  on  top,  dust  with  pep- 
per and  then  arrange  the  pieces  of  chicken  over  it;  cover  it  with  the  remainder  of  the 
asparagus,  put  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  on  top,  pour  over  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
cream  and  stew  gently  until  "done.  Turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  dish,  garnish  with 
croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Chicken  with  Mushrooms. 

Cut  a  chicken  into  pieces  and  stew  it  gently  in  milk  and  water  in  equal  parts, 
adding  a  small  quantity  of  butter.  Put  a  small  lump  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire  to  melt,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  button  mushrooms,  a  seasoning  of  mace,  white 
pepper  and  salt,  and  cook.  Take  out  the  chicken  meat  when  done,  drain  it,  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  with  the  mushrooms,  warm  them  all  up  together,  and  serve.  If  more 
sauce  is  desired,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  sweet  cream  may  be  added  to  the  mushrooms 
when  nearly  cooked. 

Stewed   Chickens  with  Tomatoes. 

Cut  a  chicken  into  five  pieces  and  put  the  legs,  wings  and  body  into  a  flat  stew- 
pan  with  a  little  oil,  two  or  three  small  onions,  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley.  Place  the  pan  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  let  it  remain  until  the  meat  is  half 
cooked.  Then  add  the  fillets  and  pieces  cut  off  the  breast  and  sprinkle  them  over 
with  salt  and  pepper;  return  the  pan  to  the  fire  and  complete  the  cooking,  giving 
them  a  turn  over  now  and  then.  Select  eight  or  nine  large  tomatoes,  cut  them 
through,  remove  the  seeds,  arrange  them  in  a  large  saucepan  with  oil,  dust  them  over 
with  salt  and  fry  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other;  sprinkle  over  a  little  finely- 
minced  parsley,  and  put  the  pan  over  a  moderate  fire  until  the  tomatoes  are  cooked. 
This  must  be  done  very  gently.  Then  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  place  the  pieces  of 
chicken  on  them.  Put  into  a  saucepan  five  tablespoonfuls  of  good  gravy,  boil  for  two 
minutes,  pour  over  the  meat  through  a  conical  strainer,  and  serve. 

Supreme   of   Chickens. 

Cut  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  the  meat  off  the  breasts  of  three  fowls; 
trim  them  to  one  size  and  to  the  shape  of  pears;  lay  them  in  a  tin  dish  with  plenty  of 
butter,  dust  them  over  with  salt,  cover  them  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  and  put 


306  POULTRY. 

them  by  until  just  before  they  are  wanted,  when  they  must  be  put  in  the  oven  and 
baked.  Cut  some  slices  of  dressed  tongue  the  same  shape  but  a  little  smaller  than 
the  cutlets,  and  warm  them  in  the  same  manner  but  without  using  so  much  butter. 
Cut  up  the  remains  of  the  chickens  into  pieces,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  slices  of 
ham  and  bacon,  trimmings  of  veal  and  half  a  calf's  foot;  add  vegetables  such  as 
onions,  carrots  and  thyme,  celery,  mushrooms,  parsley,  marjoram,  a  bay  leaf  and  a 
few  trimmings  of  truffles.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt,  mace  and  cloves,  fill  up 
the  saucepan  with  cold  water,  put  on  the  lid  and  simmer  gently  for  three  or  four 
hours.  Strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  leave  it  until  cool  and  then  skim 
off  all  the  fat.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  stir-it  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed  and  then  pour  in  gradually  the  above  liquor. 
Stir  it  over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  then  move  to  the  side. 
Take  a  small  canful  each  of  mushrooms,  truffles  and  cockscombs  and  heat  them  by 
standing  the  cans  in  hot  water.  Pour  some  of  the  above  liquor  onto  a  hot  deep  dish, 
pile  the  cockscombs,  mushrooms  and  truffles  in  the  center.  Arrange  the  pieces  of 
fowl  and  tongue  around,  and  serve. 

Supreme   of  Fillets   of  Chicken. 

Take  three  very  fat  young  birds,  clean  and  scald  the  legs  in  hot  water.  Cut  off 
the  fillets,  trim  and  flatten  the  large  ones,  stick  two  of  the  small  fillets  together  to 
form  one,  put  them  into  a  sautepan,  cover  with  melted  butter  and  sprinkle  with  a 
little  salt.  Fry  them  lightly  on  both  sides  until  they  are  quite  firm  and  done.  Drain 
off  the  butter  from  the  pan,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  highly  seasoned  bechamel 
sauce  to  the  gravy  that  is  left  and  hold  the  pan  over  the  fire,  moving  it  constantly  so 
as  not  to  let  the  sauce  boil.  Put  the  fillets  on  a  dish,  place  small  pieces  of  fried  bread 
between  them,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Supreme   of  Chickens,  Rothschild   Style. 

Have  ready  chicken  supreme  prepared  as  for  Toulouse,  but  stuffing  with  puree  of 
chestnuts  instead  of  the  chicken  forcemeat.  Mince  two  truffles  very  fine,  mix  with 
one  pint  of  hot  puree  of  chestnuts,  arrange  the  hot  puree  on  a  hot  dish,  place  six 
croutons  of  fried  bread  over  this,  arrange  the  supreme  over  the  croutons  and  decorate 
the  top  of  each  right  in  the  center  with  one  cooked  mushroom. 

Supreme   of  Chickens,  Toulouse   Style. 

Take  three  chickens,  singe,  draw  and  wipe;  remove  the  skin  from  the  breasts; 
make  an  incision  on  top  of  the  breastbone  from  end  to  end  and  with  a  sharp  knife 
carefully  cut  off  the  entire  breast  on  each  side,  including  the  small  wing  bone,  which 
must  not  be  separated.  Under  each  breast  will  be  found  a  small  fillet;  carefully 
remove  it  and  place  on  a  dish  for  future  use.  With  a  sharp  knife  make  an  incision 


POULTRY.  307 

three  inches  in  length  by  one  inch  in  depth  in  each  breast  at  the  thinner  end,  season 
the  insides  with  salt  and  pepper  equally  distributed  and  stuff  them  with  two  ounces 
of  chicken  forcemeat  mixed  with  two  truffles  and  four  mushrooms  also  finely  sliced. 
Butter  a  copper  sautepan  and  lay  in  gently  the  six  breasts.  Take  each  small  fillet 
and  press  it  gently  with  the  fingers  to  give  it  shape;  then  make  six  small  slanting  in- 
cisions on  top  of  each  and  insert  in  these  slices  of  truffle  cut  with  a  tube  half  an 
inch  in  diameter.  Slightly  moisten  the  top  of  every  breast  with  water,  carefully 
arrange  one  fillet  on  top  of  each  lengthwise  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  clarified 
butter,  using  a  feather  brush.  Pour  into  the  pan  but  not  over  the  supreme  a 
quarter  of  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom 
liquor,  tightly  cover  with  the  lid  and  place  it  in  the  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes. 
Pour  one  pint  of  hot  Toulouse  garnishing  on  a  hot  dish,  take  out  the  supreme 
from  the  oven,  neatly  arrange  it  over  the  garnish,  adjust  paper  ruffles  on  each 
wing  bone,  and  serve  at  once. 

Timbale  of  Chickens. 

Pick  out  a  couple  of  fowls  of  medium  size,  singe  and  draw  them  and  remove  the 
pinions  and  leg  bones.  Cut  each  bird  into  five  pieces,  not  including  the  backs  which 
are  cut  in  halves ;  break  the  thick  bones  in  the  legs,  take  them  out  and  put  the  legs 
into  a  saucepan  with  the  wings;  add  eight  ounces  of  smoked  ham  cut  up  small,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  melted  fat  of  bacon,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  few  sweet  herbs. 
Set  the  pan  over  a  brisk  fire  and  add  a  little  seasoning  ;  when  they  are  done  and  a 
light  color  take  the  chicken  and  ham  out  with  a  skimmer  and  put  them  into  another 
saucepan  to  keep  warm  on  the  side  of  the  fire.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
minced  shallot  and  onion  into  the  saucepan  with  the  liquor,  fry  them  and  then  add 
fifteen  mushrooms  cut  in  quarters.  Place  the  pan  over  the  fire  again  and  when  the 
moisture  is  reduced  add  half  a  dozen  chickens'  livers,  scalded  and  cut  into  halves  ; 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine  or  Madeira  and  the  same  quantity  of  melted  glaze. 
Return  the  chicken  to  this  saucepan,  toss  them  in  the  sauce,  removing  the  pan  from 
the  fire  while  so  doing,  sprinkle  a  little  parsley  over  them,  and  let  them  stand  for  a 
little  while.  In  the  meanwhile  line  a  timbale  mould  with  short  paste  and  mask  it  with 
a  layer  of  raw  minced  veal  or  pork  mixed  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  herbs.  Put 
in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  the  ham,  livers  and  mushrooms,  spread  the  top  over  with 
more  of  the  raw  mince,  put  a  layer  of  paste  on  the  top,  fold  the  paste  over  from  the 
sides,  put  the  timbale  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  one  hour. 
Remove  it  when  it  is  done,  turn  it  out,  make  a  small  hole  in  the  top,  pour  in  a  break- 
fast cupful  of  gravy  previously  reduced  with  a  little  Madeira  or  white  wine,  and  serve 
quite  hot. 

Turban   of  Chickens,  Cleveland   Style. 

Take  two  fowls,  singe,  draw  and  wipe  them  well ;  bone  and  cut  them  into  quar- 
ters ;  then  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  and 


308  POULTRY. 

half  a  glassful  of  Madeira  wine;  boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Take  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  chicken  forcemeat  and  add  to  it  one  chopped  truffle,  three  chopped  mush- 
rooms and  half  an  ounce  of  cooked  minced  tongue  and  stir  well.  Put  the  forcemeat 
on  a  dish,  lay  the  pieces  of  chicken  on  top,  crownshaped,  and  decorate  with  twelve 
whole  mushrooms  and  two  thinly  sliced  truffles.  Add  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives  and  a  small  pat  of  fresh  butter  to  the  chicken  gravy. 
Pour  this  immediately  over  the  fowls,  put  the  dish  in  the  oven  and  cook  slowly  for 
ten  minutes  ;  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve  with  six  heart-shaped 
croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Truffled   Chicken. 

Bone  a  fat  chicken  and  put  it  on  a  table  with  the  fillets  cut  off  the  breasts  of 
two  other  fowls;  cut  some  large  slits  in  them  all  and  put  pieces  of  pork  cut  into  thin 
slips  in  the  cuts.  Chop  into  slices  one  quart  of  truffles  and  put  them  where  they  will 
show  in  the  white  meat  when  it  is  cut;  sprinkle  well  with  pepper,  salt  and  powdered 
thyme  and  a  little  finely  grated  nutmeg,  and  put  the  pieces  of  the  breasts  in  the  thin- 
nest parts  of  the  fowl,  draw  the  two  sides  together,  sew  them  up  into  shapes  as  near 
the  original  as  possible,  wrap  the  fowl  in  a  cloth,  tie  it  round  with  a  string  and  boil  it 
in  salted  broth  for  two  hours.  Take  it  out,  put  it  in  a  mould  with  a  weight  on  top  and 
let  it  cool.  When  perfectly  cold  remove  the  string  and  cloth,  put  it  on  a  dish  and 
cut  it  up  in  slices;  or,  it  may  be  put  into  a  mould  and  filled  up  with  aspic  jelly,  or 
masked  with  liquefied  butter. 

Vol-au-Vent  of  Chicken. 

Cut  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cooked  chicken  meat  into  dice  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Make  a  cream  sauce  and  season  also  with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  half  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  onion  juice  and  made  mustard.  Heat  the  chicken  in  this,  and  with 
it  fill  some  vol-au-vent  cases. 

Vol-au-Vent,  Toulouse. 

Prepare  one-half  pound  of  puff  paste,  giving  it  six  turns.  Roll  the  paste  out  to 
about  two  inches  in  thickness,  and  with  a  small  round  tin  cutter  divide  the  paste  into 
rounds;  with  another  tin  cutter,  one  inch  smaller  in  diameter  than  the  one  just  used, 
cut  three  parts  through  the  center  of  each  round  of  paste,  thus  forming  the  lids.  Place 
the  cases  on  a  baking-sheet  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  until  done,  and  nicely 
browned.  Then  lift  up  the  middle  pieces  carefully  and  scoop  out  the  underdone 
paste.  Prepare  a  few  quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
the  flesh  of  half  of  a  cooked  cold  chicken  cut  into  small  pieces,  two  ounces  of  chopped 
cooked  tongue,  three  or  four  sliced  truffles,  five  or  six  mushrooms,  three  cockscombs 
and  one-half  pint  of  supreme  sauce.  Stir  the  above  mixture  over  the  fire  until  hot, 


POULTRY.  309 

though  not  boiling,  fill  the  vol-au-vents  with  it,  arrange  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  an 
ornamental  dish-paper  laid  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  without  delay.  The  cases  should 
only  be  filled  when  ready  to  serve,  as  if  left  standing  long  the  mixture  in  them  is 
likely  to  make  them  heavy. 

Chicken,  Waldorf  Style. 

Boil  a  chicken  till  it  is  tender,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  remove  all  the  white  meat, 
cutting  it  into  dice-shaped  pieces,  and  adding  two  large  truffles,  cut  the  same.  Put 
these  all  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  fresh  thick  cream,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  allow  it  to  boil  for  twelve  minutes,  then  thicken  with  two  raw  eggTyolks  diluted 
in  two  large  spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine.  Stir  this  thoroughly  in  with  the  chicken, 
also  two  ounces  of  fresh  batter  added  in  small  bits,  and  mingle  without  letting  it  boil 
again,  then  serve. 

Braised   Duck. 

Draw  and  clean  a  large  duck,  stuff  the  breast  with  bread  or  meat  stuffing,  and 
truss  it.  Put  into  a  stewpan  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  or  a  little  butter;  when  melted 
place  the  duck  over  it  on  its  breast  first,  to  give  it  a  little  color,  then  turn  it  over. 
When  the  back  is  slightly  colored,  surround  the  duck  with  whole  vegetables,  such  as 
carrots,  potatoes,  etc.;  add  salt,  pepper  and  seasoning,  and  a  breakfast  cupful  of 
broth;  simmer  over  the  fire  until  the  liquid  has  reduced  to  glaze,  then  add  broth  and 
white  wirie  to  reach  to  half  the  height  of  the  duck,  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon, 
and  braise  it.  When  done,  take  out  the  duck  and  vegetables,  and  reduce  the  liquor 
to  half-glaze.  Untruss  the  duck  and  dish  it;  strain  and  skim  the  stock  and  thicken 
with  a  little  brown  sauce.  Garnish  the  duck  with  vegetables,  pour  a  little  of  the 
sauce  over  it,  and  serve  the  rest  in  a  sauceboat. 

Braised   Duck,  Empress   Style. 

Prepare  a  duck  by  cutting  off  the  wing  and  half  of  the  breast;  take  off  the  skin, 
remove  the  bone  from  the  wing  and  fill  up  its  place  with  quenelle  forcemeat.  Lard 
the  breast  and  put  it  into  a  braisingpan  over  slices  of  leeks,  carrots,  onions,  a  little 
parsley,  thyme,  chervil,  bay  leaves,  and  lemon  peel.  Pour  over  sufficient  stock  to 
prevent  burning,  set  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  braise  the  half  duck;  then  glaze  it,  put 
on  a  dish  over  a  layer  of  cooked  sea-kale,  and  serve  with  puree  of  beans  for  garnish. 

.    Braised   Duck  with   Mushrooms. 

Braise  a  duck.  Melt  two  ounces  o-f  butter  in  a  stewpan;  add  a  few  chives,  several 
finely-minced  mushrooms  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  fry  them  for  ten  minutes; 
dredge  in  a  little  flour  ;  add  the  liquor  from  the  duck  after  braising,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes;  skim  off  the  fat  and  strain.  Place  the  duck  on  a  dish,  pour 
over  the  gravy,  and  serve. 


310  POULTRY. 

Deviled   Duck. 

Clean  a  good-sized  duck  and  split  down  the  back.  Prepare  a  mixture  of  dry 
mustard,  pepper,  salt  and  chutney;  rub  it  all  over  the  duck,  having  previously 
pricked  the  skin  with  a  fork,  and  boil  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Put  half  a  teacupful 
each  of  white  wine,  mushroom  catsup,  lemon-pickle  and  stock  into  a  saucepan,  and 
add  a  little  sugar.  Dish  the  duck,  pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Stewed   Duck's   Giblets. 

Wash  the  giblets,  cut  up  the  gizzards;  disjoint  the  head,  neck  and  pinions,  and 
put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  stewpan;  add  a  small  onion,  a  couple  of  cloves,  one  dozen 
peppercorns,  a  small  bunch  of  savory  herbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  catsup,  two  ounces  of 
butter  and  half  a  pint  of  broth.  Let  them  stew  gently  until  the  giblets  are  tender, 
then  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish  Strain  the  gravy,  put  it  back  into  the  stewpan,  thicken 
with  a  little  butter  rolled  in  corn  meal,  and  stir  in  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  the  giblets,  and  serve  hot. 


Ducks,  Hunter's   Style. 


Take  three  ducks,  singe,  draw,  truss  and  cook  in  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter 
over  a  moderate  fire.  Fry  the  livers  of  the  ducks  with  other  poultry  livers  of  slices  of 
calf's  liver;  when  they  are  cool  pound  them  and  pass  through  a  sieve,  mix  in  a  little 
glaze  and  with  it  mask  a  few  bread-crusts  cut  into  oblong  shapes  and  browned  in  but- 
ter. Arrange  in  the  center  of  a  dish  a  heap  of  green  peas  or  any  other  vegetable;  cut 
the  ducks  into  pieces  of  fillets,  trim  them,  arrange  them  with  the  crusts  around  the 
pyramid  and  place  a  decorated  skewer  in  the  center  of  the  heap  Mask  the  fillets  of 
duck  with  brown  sauce  reduced  with  Madeira,  and  serve.  Serve  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Duck   Pie. 

Skin  and  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  a  duck,  having  first  cut  off  the  neck.  Put 
the  well-washed  giblets  over  the  fire  with  an  anchovy,  a  little  whole  black  pepper,  a 
small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion,  a  bit  of  mace,  a  crust  of  bread  toasted  very 
brown,  a  very  little  cayenne  and  an  ounce  of  butter.  Cover  the  pan  until  the  butter  is 
quite  melted  and  all  is  quite  hot,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  stew  until 
tender.  Take  up  the  giblets,  strain  the  liquor  and  let  it  and  the  giblets  stand  until 
quite  cold.  When  the  duck  is  roasted  remove  and  cut  in  pieces  while  yet  hot.  When 
the  giblets  are  cold  put  them  into  a  pie-dish,  pour  over  the  skimmed  liquor  they  were 
boiled  in  with  the  gravy  that  has  run  from  the  duck,  season  the  duck  with  salt  and 
pepper,  put  into  a  pie-dish  with  a  few  pieces  of  butter,  cover  with  puff-paste  or  short- 
crust,  and  bake. 


POULTRY. 


Roast   Ducks. 


311 


Truss  the  birds,  having  first  removed  the  pinions,  legs,  crop,  entrails  and  oil-bags; 
rub  a  little  butter  over  them  and  dredge  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  roast  in  a  hot 
oven  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  If  preferred  stuffed,  peel,  core  and  quarter  some 
apples  and  fill  the  body  with  them,  removing  them  when  the  bird  is  done,  as  they  are 
not  fit  to  eat,  the  flavor  being  too  strong.  Serve  with  olive  sauce  and  green  peas. 

Roast   Duck  with   Orange   Sauce. 

Scrape  a  tablespoonful  each  of  fat  bacon  and  raw  onion  and  fry  them  together 
for  five  minutes;  add  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  a  wineglassful  of  port  wine,  the 
drippings  from  the  duck  and  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Keep  this  hot  without 
boiling,  and  serve  with  the  duck  after  it  is  roasted. 

Salmis  of  Duck. 

Take  a  cold  roasted  duck;  cutoff  the  fillets, trim  them  and  put  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  little  salt  and  allspice;  add  one  teacupful  of  olive  oil  and  a  wineglassful  of  claret; 
stir  over  the  fire  until  the  fillets  are  hot  through,  then  dish  and  serve. 

Stewed   Ducks. 

Cut  into  joints  two  ducks,  put  in  a  stewpan  with  one  pint  of  rich  gravy;  let  this 
come  to  a  boil,  and  as  the  scum  rises,  remove;  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  and  stew 
gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  mix  until  smooth  two  teaspoonfuls  of  ground 
rice  with  one  wineglassful  of  port  wine,  stir  it  into  the  gravy  and  boil  for  seven  or 
eight  minutes  longer;  then  turn  the  whole  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Stewed   Duck  with   Chestnuts. 

Draw  and  prepare  a  duck,  lard  the  breast  with  bacon  and  roast  it  in  the  oven; 
put  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  beef  gravy,  two  dozen  roasted  and  peeled  chestnuts, 
two  onions  sliced  and  fried  in  butter,  a  small  sprig  of  sage  and  thyme,  and  season 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Cut  the  duck  up  and  put  it  in  the  saucepan,  cover,  and  stand 
the  pan  by  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes;  then  dish  it,  skim  the 
gravy,  take  out  the  herbs,  add  one  teacupful  of  sherry  wine,  thicken  with  flour  and 
butter,  and  boil.  Then  pour  it  over  the  duck,  and  serve  with  the  chestnuts  around  it. 

Stewed   Duck  with  Olives. 

Prepare  and  truss  a  duck,  making  it  as  plump  as  possible,  and  squeeze  lemon 
juice  over  it,  rubbing  it  in.  Put  the  duck  in  a  stewpan  with  a  good-sized  piece  of 
butter,  and  brown  it  all  over;  stir  in  one  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  and  when  brown 


312  POULTRY. 

add  one  breakfast  cupful  of  broth.  Remove  the  kernels  from  some  olives  (by  peeling 
them  thick),  scald  them  in  boiling  water,  and  when  the  duck  is  nearly  done,  add 
them  to  the  stewpan  and  cook.  When  ready,  dish  the  duck  and  arrange  the  olives 
around  it;  skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy,  pour  it  over  the  duck,  and  serve. 

Duck  with  Marinaded   Cucumbers. 

Place  three  salted  cucumbers  in  a  basin  and  pour  one  pint  of  water  and  half  a 
teacupful  of  vinegar  over  them,  and  let  them  marinade  for  two  or  three  hours.  Then 
cut  a  small  duck  into  eight  pieces,  peel  and  slice  one  onion  and  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes;  put  in  the  pieces  of  duck,  and 
fry  them  until  lightly  browned,  pour  over  one  breakfast  cupful  of  stock,  add  a  clove 
of  garlic  and  a  bay  leaf,  and  stew  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  tender,  then 
drain  the  slices  of  cucumber  and  put  them  in  with  the  duck  to  get  hot.  When  pre- 
pared, turn  all  out  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Curried   Duckling. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  four  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
ground  chillies  and  turmeric,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  garlic  with  two  ounces  of  boiling  fat,  and  brown  them.  Cut  a 
duckling  up  into  several  pieces,  and  brown  it  slightly  in  the  saucepan  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  pour  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  and  simmer  on  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  the  meat  is  quite  tender,  which  will  occupy  "about  an  hour  and  a  half. 
When  done  turn  the  curry  out  on  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot.  If  desired,  half  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  ground  coriander  and  cumin  seeds  may  be  added  to  this  curry 
with  advantage. 

Fillets  of  Ducklings   with   Green    Peas. 

1 I )  Roast  two  or  three  ducklings  in  the  oven,  basting  frequently.     Boil  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  green  peas,  and  when  tender  strain  off  the  water;    mash  about  one 
pound  of  boiled  potatoes,  put  them  into  a  border  mould,  poach  in  the  bain-marie 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  turn  them  out  onto  a  hot  dish.        Cut  as  many  thin 
croutons  of  bread  as  fillets  and  fry  them  in  butter  until  browned.     When  the  duck- 
lings   are    cooked    cut  off  the  fillets,  trim  them,  and  arrange  alternately  with  the 
croutons  on  the  border  of  potatoes.     Strain  the  gravy  that  has  run  from  the  duck- 
lings into  the  stewpan  with  the  peas,  put  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  a  little  salt,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.      Beat  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  with  half  a  teacupful  of  cream  or  milk,  then  mix  it  in  with  the  sauce; 
and    stir    by  the    side  of  the  fire  until  thick.      The  sauce  must  not  boil  after  the 
egg  is  added.     Heap  the  peas  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  and  serve. 

(2)  Roast  and  fillet  the  ducklings  as  for  No.    I,  score  the  skin,  arrange  the 


POULTRY.  313 

fillets  in  a  circle  on  .a  dish,  fill  the  center  with  plain  boiled  green  peas,  and  serve 
with  a  sauceboatful  of  half-glaze. 

Roast   Ducklings. 

Take  a  duckling  weighing  from  three  to  three  and  a  half  pounds,  singe,  draw 
and  wipe;  then  stuff  with  forcemeat,  place  in  a  roastingpan  with  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  forty  minutes,  basting  occasionally. 
Lay  the  bird  on  a  dish  and  untruss  it;  skim  the  fat  off  the  liquor,  add  one  teacup- 
ful  of  white  broth,  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  then  strain  over  the  bird,  and  garnish  with 
fried  hominy. 

Roast   Duckling   with   Apple   Sauce. 

Prepare  and  truss  a  tender  duckling  of  about  three  and  a  half  pounds  weight; 
place  it  in  a  roasting  pan,  spread  over  it  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  pinch  of  salt; 
cook  in  a  brisk  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  basting  now  and  then  with  its  own  liquor. 
Place  the  duck  on  a  hot  dish  and  untruss,  skim  the  fat  off  the  liquor  in  the  pan,  pour 
in  a  teacupful  of  broth;  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  then  strain  it  over  the  duck  and  garnish 
with  watercresses.  Serve  with  hot  applesauce  in  a  sauceboat. 


Giblet   Pie. 

Prepare  and  stew  three  or  four  sets  of  giblets  and  when  they  are  done  place  them 
in  a  dish  with  the  meat  from  the  neck  and  pinions,  arranging  them  in  layers  with  a 
few  slices  of  boiled  bacon  between;  pour  in  a  little  gravy,  cover  the  dish  with  a  good 
pie-crust  and  put  it  in  the  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  If  desired  mashed  potatoes  may 
be  put  on  the  top  instead  of  pie-crust  and  a  little  mushroom  or  walnut  catsup  poured 
into  the  dish.  Celery  and  sweet  herbs  are  sometimes  used. 


Deviled   Goose. 

Take  a  good-sized  goose,  singe  and  draw,  plunge  it  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water 
and  leave  for  thirty  minutes  or  so;  then  stuff  it  with  a  mixture  made  of  mashed  pota- 
toes, butter,  onions,  parsley,  thyme  and  a  little  black  pepper.  Put  a  few  slices  of  fat 
pork  in  a  pan,  place  the  goose  on  it  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  broth.  Put  a  little  butter 
on  the  breast  of  the  bird  and  pour  over  it  a  mixture  made  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
each  of  pepper,  vinegar,  celery  vinegar,  made  mustard  and  half  that  quantity  of  any 
acid  fruit  jelly.  Sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper,  dust  it  well  over  with  flour  and  put  in 
a  quick  oven,  basting  frequently.  When  done  take  it  out,  lay  it  on  a  dish,  skim  the 
fat  off  the  gravy,  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 


3i4  POULTRY. 

Attereaux  of  Goose's   Fat   Liver. 

Take  half  of  a  cold  cooked  fat  liver,  divide  it  into  half-inch  squares,  a  fifth  of  an 
inch  thick;  put  them  into  a  kitchen  basin,  add  an  equal  quantity  of  same-sized  squares 
of  cooked  pickled  beef  tongue,  season,  sprinkle  over  a  handful  of  minced  truffles  and 
pour  over  a  few  tablespponfuls  of  hot  villeroy  sauce.  Roll  them  in  this  sauce  until 
they  are  thoroughly  masked  in  it  and  then  let  them  cool.  Thread  the  squares  of 
tongue  and  liver  alternately  upon  some  wooden  or  metal  skewers  and  roll  them  in 
breadcrumbs;  dip  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  breadcrumbs  again,  plunge  them  into  plenty 
of  boiling  hog's  lard,  and  fry  to  a  bright  brown  color.  Remove,  drain  and  serve  on  a 
folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper  with  lemons  cut  into  quarters  set  all  round. 

Goose's  Fat  Liver  Croquettes. 

Take  half  a  pound  each  of  truffles  and  fat  liver,  cut  into  small  pieces  of  equal 
size  and  put  them  into  one  quart  of  hot  Spanish  sauce  reduced  with  a  little  essence  of 
truffles  and  made  quite  thick.  Take  them  out  when  cool,  separate  the  pieces,  roll 
them  into  little  balls,  dip  them  into  egg  beaten  up  with  oil,  salt  and  pepper,  and  then 
roll  them  on  a  board  covered  with  breadcrumbs.  Plunge  them  into  a  pan  of  boiling 
fat  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  color.  Take  them  out,  drain,  dust  over  with  salt,  place 
them  on  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Fried  Goose's   Fat  Liver  with  Truffle  Sauce. 

Take  a  large  liver  and  without  steeping  it  in  water  cut  it  up  in  slices  as  near  of  a 
size  as  possible,  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with  flour,  dip  into 
beaten  egg  and  then  into  breadcrumbs.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  flat  saute - 
pan;  when  it  is  warm,  add  the  slices  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk  fire  turning  them  over 
so  as  to  cook  on  both  sides.  When  done  to  a  light  brown,  take  them  out  again, 
drain,  put  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish  and  stand  a  boat  of  perigueux  sauce  in  the 
center.  Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve  hot. 

Goose's  Fat  Liver  in  Shells. 

Take  a  half  or  three-quarters  of  a  fat  liver  and  chop  it  into  pieces,  small  dice  or 
squares  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  half  their  bulk  of  chopped  mushrooms. 
Sprinkle  over  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  place  the  lid  on  the  pan;  put  three-quarters 
of  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  into  another  saucepan  and  place  it  over  a  quick  fire  to 
reduce  it,  keeping  it  stirred  constantly  and  adding  slowly  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  glaze  until  the  sauce  is  soft  enough  without  being  too  thick;  then  add  it  to  the 
fat  liver  mixture  in  the  other  saucepan  and  place  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  fire  where 
it  will  warm  without  boiling.  Fill  ten  tableshells  with  the  mixture,  smooth  the 


POULTRY.  315 

surface,  cover  them  with  breadcrumbs  and  salamander,  or  place  them  in  a  slow  oven 
to  brown.     Serve  the  shells  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Goose's  Giblets  Stewed  with  Apples. 

After  cleaning  the  giblets  thoroughly,  cut  them  up  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  an  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  little  water; 
dust  in  salt  and  pepper  and  stew  them  gently;  peel  some  apples,  cut  them  in  quarters 
and  core;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  a  slice  of  lemon  peel, 
brown  sugar  to  taste,  and  cook  them  gently  until  soft,  but  without  breaking;  put  one 
ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
brown;  then  mix  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  giblets;  strain  the 
syrup  off  the  apples,  mix  it  in  with  the  sauce  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thick  and 
smooth.  Take  a  tablespoonful  of  currants,  wash  them  thoroughly  and  put  them  in 
boiling  water  until  plump.  Remove  the  onion  and  parsley  from  the  giblets,  pour  the 
sauce  in  with  them  and  color  darkly  with  caramel.  After  draining  them,  mix  the 
currants,  and  the  quarters  of  apples  in  with  the  giblets  and  make  all  hot  together. 


Deviled   Leg  of  Goose. 

Remove  all  the  water  from  a  tablespoonful  of  fresh  butter  by  beating  it  up  with 
a  little  salt;  add  to  it  one  saltspoonful  each  of  dry  mustard  and  white  pepper,  half  a 
saltspoonful  'of  dried  salt  and  any  kind  of  chutney,  also  a  small  quantity  each  of 
sugar  and  cayenne.  Work  these  to  a  paste,  spread  it  over  the  leg  of  a  cold  cooked 
goose  so  as  to  cover  it,  put  it  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  both  sides  over  a  clear  fire. 
Serve  at  once. 

Stewed   Goose   Livers. 

Take  six  goose's  livers,  clean  and  wash  them  thoroughly,  and  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan with  two  or  three  shallots,  a  piece  of  parsnip,  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  with  a 
few  sprigs  of  parsley  tied  up  in  it,  two  or  three  cloves,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and 
about  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  clear  stock.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the 
fire  when  boiling  and  keep  the  contents  simmering  gently  until  the  livers  are  tender. 
When  cooked  take  the  livers  out  of  the  saucepan,  being  very  careful  not  to  break  them, 
and  cut  them  into  slices.  Take  some  of  their  cooking  liquor  to  make  the  sauce,  strain 
it  into  a  small  stewpan,  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour  kneaded  with  butter,  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  boiling;  next  put  into  it  a  few  sliced  mushrooms  and  the  sliced  liv- 
ers and  let  the  whole  simmer  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn 
the  livers  and  mushrooms  with  the  sauce  over  them  on  to  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  thin 
rolls  of  fried  bacon  and  small  croutons  of  bread  fried  brown  in  butter,  and  serve. 


3i6  POULTRY. 

Pate  of  Foies  Gras. 

Select  a  good-sized  goose's  fat  liver  and  remove  the  gall  with  care,  put  the  liver 
into  a  pan  of  boiling  water  to  set,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  boil,  then  take  it  out 
and  let  it  cool.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  onions  into  a  sautepan  with 
a  little  rasped  bacon  and  fry,  but  without  allowing  it  to  color.  Cut  the  liver  into  large 
squares,  put  it  into  the  pan  with  the  onions  and  add  eight  ounces  of  raw  truffles  cut 
up  into  smaller  squares  or  dice;  sprinkle  over  a  little  salt  and  add  a  few  spices  to  sea- 
son. Place  the  pan  over  the  fire  for  eight  minutes  or  so,  tossing  it  now  and  then,  then 
take  it  from  the  fire  and  let  the  contents  cool.  Chop  fine  half  a  pound  each  of  lean 
veal  and  fat  bacon,  mix  in  with  them  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs 
soaked  in  milk  and  squeezed  thoroughly  dry,  mince  it  up  a  little  more  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Place  this  mince  in  a  basin,  add  some  trimmings  of  truffles  and 
the  fat  liver  also  chopped  very  fine,  and  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  cut  into  small 
dice  or  squares.  Butter  a  hot  pie  mould,  place  it  on  buttered  paper  on  a  baking 
sheet,  line  it  with  short  paste,  put  a  layer  of  the  mince  at  the  bottom  and  sides, 
then  fill  it  with  a  round  flat  of  paste,  decorate  it,  leave  a  hole  in  the  center,  brush 
it  over  with  egg  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven.  As  soon 
as  the  paste  begins  to  color  place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  over  it.  When  it  is 
done  remove  the  top  of  the  pie,  wipe  off  as  much  of  fat  as  possible,  mask  the 
contents  with  brown  sauce  reduced  with  Madeira  and  trimmings  of  truffles,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Goose  Pie. 

Cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  of  a  cold,  cooked  goose,  put  the  bones  with  skin 
and  stuffing  (if  any)  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water  and  boil  for  two  hours.  Suf- 
ficient water  should  be  used  so  that  when  boiled  there  will  be  at  least  one  pint  of 
gravy.  Let  it  cool  and  skim  off  the  fat.  Put  a  layer  of  apple  sauce  at  the  bottom 
of  a  dish,  lay  the  meat  on  this,  cover  it  over  with  another  layer  of  sauce,  and  fill  the 
dish  up  with  as  much  gravy  as  it  will  conveniently  hold.  Sprinkle  over  with  pepper 
and  salt,  cover  the  dish  with  a  good  suet  crust  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the 
crust  is  done.  If  uncooked  meat  is  used  it  should  be  first  stewed  for  an  hour  or  so. 
Boiled  and  minced  onions  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  apple  sauce  if  desired. 

Goose  Giblet  Pie. 

Take  a  goose,  singe  and  scald  the  wings  and  head,  cut  off  part  of  the  beak  and 
remove  the  eyes,  skin  the  feet  and  head,  cut  open  the  gizzard  and  cleanse  it,  cut 
the  neck  into  moderate-sized  pieces  and  the  liver  and  heart  into  halves.  Put  the 
giblets  into  a  stewpan  with  a  sliced  onion,  a  few  peppercorns  and  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  moisten  to  height  with  water  and  keep  them  gently  simmering  at  the  side  of 
the  fire  for  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  leave  the  giblets  until  cool  and  cut  them  into 
smaller  pieces.  Take  a  pie-dish  and  fill  it  with  alternate  layers  of  tender  steak  and 


POULTRY.  317 

the  giblets,  seasoning  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper.  Strain  in  the  cooking  liquor 
of  the  giblets  and  cover  the  whole  with  a  good  plain  crust,  trimming  off  neatly  round 
the  edges  and  making  a  hole  in  the  center.  Lay  a  sheet  of  paper  over  the  top  of  the 
pie  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  brisk  oven.  It  may  be  served  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Roasted  Goose  and  Chestnut  Stuffing. 

Peel  fifty  chestnuts,  chop  them  up  as  small  as  possible,  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  sausage  meat,  half  an  onion  finely 
chopped,  a  little  minced  parsley  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  garlic.  Set  the  sauce- 
pan on  the  fire  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Scald  and  chop  finely  the  liver  of  a  goose, 
add  it  to  the  chestnut  mixture  and  cook  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Prepare  a 
goose,  stuff  it  with  the  mixture  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven.  Boil  gently  fifty  more 
chestnuts  in  white  wine,  adding  any  required  seasoning  and  cooking  them  until  tender 
but  not  broken.  When  the  goose  is  done  put  it  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  the  boiled 
chestnuts,  and  serve. 

Smoked  Goose. 

Pluck  a  goose  as  soon  as  killed,  remove  all  the  back,  together  with  the  bone 
attached  to  it,  take  out  the  inside  of  the  remainder  of  the  bird,  wash  and  dry  it,  open 
it  out  flat,  rub  well  with  a  mixture  of  salt,  saltpeter  and  honey,  and  leave  for  a  couple 
of  days;  then  rnb  it  over  with  powdered  thyme,  allspice,  garlic  and  white  pepper  and 
leave  it  for  another  two  days;  then  sew  it  up,  first  in  muslin  and  then  in  thick  cloth, 
and  hang  it  for  a  week  over  a  wood  fire.  Take  it  down,  remove  the  thick  cloth, 
and  put  it  in  a  cool  current  of  air  for  three  days;  then  remove  the  muslin,  sew  it  up  in 
more  muslin  and  place  in  a  cool  room  until  wanted.  The  back  part  that  was  taken 
away  may  be  used  for  stew  or  broth. 

Stewed  Goose. 

Take  two  onions,  peel  and  chop  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  goose  dripping  or  fat,  and  fry  until  soft  and  lightly  colored,  then  dredge  with 
flour,  brown  them  and  stir  in  one  pint  of  clear  broth.  Cut  up  any  cold  remains  of 
goose  and  put  it  into  the  sauce  with  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  lid  on  the  pan  and 
stew  the  contents  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Turn  the  stew  out  onto  a  hot  dish  and 
serve  with  any  kind  of  vegetables  on  a  separate  dish. 

Baked  Gosling. 

Select  a  gosling — not  very  young,  for  the  flesh  is  then  flabby — and  after  it  has 
hung  for  a  day  or  so,  pluck,  singe  and  draw  it  ;  then  put  it  in  water  with  a  little 
salt,  and  let  it  remain  for  several  hours,  to  remove  the  strong  taste.  Wash  and  wipe 


3i8  POULTRY. 

the  inside,  and  fill  it  with  a  stuffing  made  with  finely-mashed  potatoes,  a  little  lump 
of  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt  or  fresh  pork  chopped  very  fine,  a  minced  onion  and  a 
small  quantity  each  of  chopped  parsley,  thyme  and  sage.  Sew  it  up,  truss  and  grease 
it  all  over  with  butter  or  lard.  Put  it  on  a  trivet  on  a  baking-dish  with  the  giblets; 
pour  into  the  dish  one  breakfast  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  put  it  into  a  quick  oven. 
Baste  frequently,  turning  it  round  now  and  then  so  as  to  brown  on  both  sides. 
When  thoroughly  cooked,  put  on  a  dish  with  gravy,  and  serve  with  onion  sauce. 

Braised   Gosling. 

Pluck,  draw  and  singe  a  gosling  and  stuff  it  with  forcemeat  made  with  pork 
slightly  seasoned  and  mixed  with  a  little  parsley  and  breadcrumbs;  sew  it  up,  chop 
off  the  leg  bones  and  pinions  at  the  joints  and  truss  it;  put  the  fat  from  the  gosling 
at  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  a  few  vegetables  cut  in  slices,  place  the  gosling  on 
these  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  broth  with  a  little  salt  and  reduce  the  liquor  over  a  brisk 
fire;  pour  in  half  a  bottle  of  wine  and  a  little  more  broth  to  half  the  height  of 
the  bird;  drop  in  a  few  cloves  and  peppercorns  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Boil 
up  and  remove  the  pan  to  a  moderate  fire,  cover  the  goose  with  buttered  paper, 
baste  often  and  put  the  lid  on  the  pan.  Place  a  few  hot  ashes  on  the  top  and 
braise  for  three  hours.  When  done  pour  off  the  stock,  skim  off  the  fat,  put  the 
fat  back  with  the  goose  into  the  pan,  keeping  it  hot,  and  reduce  the  stock  to  half- 
glaze  in  another  saucepan;  add  a  little  brown  sauce  to  thicken  it,  reduce  again, 
stir  well,  add  a  teacupful  of  Burgundy  and  keep  it  hot  in  the  bain-marie.  Untruss 
the  goose,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  garnish  with  cooked  glazed  chestnuts,  ar- 
ranged alternately  in  groups  with  small  cooked  sausages.  Pour  a  little  of  the 
sauce  over  the  goose,  put  a  paper  ruffle  on  each  leg,  and  serve  with  the  rest  of  the  sauce 
in  a  boat. 

Pigeons. 

Pigeons  should  always,  if  possible,  be  drawn  as  soon  as  they  are  killed,  then  well 
washed  and  thoroughly  dried.  They  are  trussed  by  cutting  off  the  neck,  also  the 
toes  at  the  first  joint,  then  crossing  the  wings  over  the  back  and  securing  these 
with  a  skewer  thrust  through  them  and  the  body;  they  are  then  ready  for  roasting. 

Pigeons    Bourgeoise. 

Clean  and  truss  two  pigeons  and  braise  them  for  forty-five  minutes.  Stone  six 
olives  and  shape  six  pieces  of  carrot  and  six  pieces  of  turnip  like  olives;  boil 
them  in  a  weak  stock  together  with  six  mushrooms  and  eight  small  quenelles. 
When  these  are  cooked  cut  the  pigeons  into  four  pieces  each  and  put  them  on  a 
hot  dish,  pour  one-half  pint  of  hot  brown  sauce  over  them,  arrange  the  vegetables 
and  quenelles  tastefully  about  and  garnish  with  nicely-shaped  croutons  of  fried 


POULTRY.  319 

bread.      This  is    a    very    plain    and    unpretentious    but  delicious  mode  of    cooking 
pigeons. 

Braised  Pigeons. 

Draw  and  wash  three  young  pigeons,  wipe  them  well  and  stuff  them  with 
breadcrumbs  that  have  been  well  seasoned  and  moistened  with  warmed  butter,  and 
cook  them  in  a  braising  pan.  Boil  some  spinach,  chop  it  well,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Toast  three  slices  of  bread,  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  the  spinach 
over  them,  put  a  pigeon  on  each  slice,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  gravy. 

Broiled   Pigeons. 

Clean  the  pigeons,  split  them  down  the  back,  wipe  them  with  a  damp  towel,  and 
sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  over  them.  Roll  them  in  warmed  butter,  dredge  with  flour, 
and  broil  for  ten  minutes  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  to  do  both  sides  equally.  Toast 
some  thick  slices  of  bread  without  a  crust,  butter  them  and  put  them  on  a  hot  dish. 
When  cooked  lay  the  pigeons  on  the  toast,  garnish  round  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Pigeons,  Crapaudine. 

Clean  two  pigeons,  cut  them  lengthwise  under  the  breast,  beat  them  flat,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  them  in  a  sautepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
and  fry  them  for  fifteen  minutes.  Drain  them,  and  place  between  two  plates  with  a 
weight  on  top,  and  leave  them  till  cold.  Fry  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallot  in 
the  sautepan,  then  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  broth,  add  a  little  pepper,  and  boil  till 
reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy,  strain  it  through  a 
pointed  strainer  into  a  smaller  stewpan,  and  keep  it  hot.  Roll  the  pieces  of  pigeon 
in  warmed  butter,  then  in  breadcrumbs,  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  browning 
both  sides  equally.  Put  the  pigeons  on  a  hot  dish,  garnishing  round  with  slices  of 
lemon,  and  serve  with  the  gravy  in  a  sauceboat. 

Broiled  Pigeons  in   Papers. 

Clean  the  pigeons,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  chopped  bacon,  a  lump  of 
butter  and  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  Fry  them  slowly,  and  when  half 
done,  put  in  with  them  mushrooms,  a  minced  shallot  and  sweet  herbs.  When  nicely 
done,  take  them  out  and  leave  them  to  get  cold.  Then  split  the  birds  in  halves 
lengthwise,  sprinkle  them  over  with  pepper,  salt  and  powdered  sweet  herbs  and  wrap 
each  piece  in  buttered  writing  paper.  Broil  them  over  a  clear  slow  fire  for  twenty 
minutes,  turning  to  do  them  equally.  Put  the  pieces  of  pigeons  on  a  hot  dish 
garnished  round  with  slices  of  lemon  and  serve. 


320  POULTRY. 

Chartreuse  of  Pigeons. 

Peel  an  equal  quantity  of  carrots  and  turnips  aud  cut  them  into  small  balls  with 
a  vegetable  cutter  and  boil  them  separately  in  salt  and  water,  keeping  them  a  little 
firm.  Drain,  wipe  them  on  a  cloth  and  leave  them  till  cold.  Cut  the  fillets  off  some 
young  pigeons,  trim  away  the  sinewy  skin,  beat  them  lightly,  season  with  salt  and 
'pepper  and  lay  them  in  a  buttered  sautepan.  Thickly  butter  a  plain  border  mould, 
arrange  the  vegetable  balls  in  circles  alternately  round  the  sides,  fill  the  hollow  of 
the  mould  with  potatoes  that  have  been  boiled  and  mashed  with  a  little  butter  and 
stand  the  mould  in  a  bain-marie  for  an  hour.  When  ready,  fry  the  fillets  over  a 
quick  fire,  turning  them.  After  they  are  cooked,  drain  off  the  butter,  pour  over  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  glaze,  and  keep  them  hot.  Turn  the  decorated  border  out 
of  the  mould  onto  a  hot  dish  and  fill  the  center  with  some  chopped  and  cooked  vegeta- 
bles that  have  been  mixed  with  some  bechamel  sauce.  Arrange  the  fillets  almost  upright 
on  the  border  letting  them  slightly  overlap  each  other,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful 
of  brown  sauce  which  has  been  prepared  with  the  legs  and  trimmings  of  the  pigeons. 

Curried   Pigeons,  Indian. 

Put  four  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  onions,  a  teaspoonful  each  of  ground  chillies  and 
turmeric,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  ground 
garlic  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  boiling  fat  and  cook  until  the  ingredients 
are  slightly  browned;  add  four  young  pigeons  each  cut  up  into  quarters  and  about  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  until  they  are  browned;  then  add  two  breakfast  cupfuls 
of  water  and  continue  to  cook  slowly  till  the  pigeons  are  tender.  Turn  the  curry 
out  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Pigeon   Cutlets. 

Having  plucked  and  prepared  the  birds,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  sufficient 
clear  stock  to  cover,  and  boil  slowly  until  tender.  When  cooked  drain  and  cut  them 
up  into  convenient  pieces.  Season  some  grated  breadcrumbs  with  moderate  quanti- 
ties of  finely-chopped  thyme,  parsley  and  lemon  peel  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper. 
Dip  the  pieces  of  pigeon  in  beaten  egg  and  roll  them  in  seasoned  breadcrumbs,  giv- 
ing them  a  good  coating.  Put  a  large  lump  of  lard  or  fat  into  a  deep  fryingpan, 
place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  blue  smoke  arises  put  in  the  pieces  of  pigeon  and 
fry  them  till  nicely  browned.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
into  a  stewpan,  stir  them  over  the  fire  till  mixed  and  browned,  then  strain  in  the  liquor 
in  which  the  pigeons  were  boiled,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  till  boiling.  Form  a  pyra- 
mid of  potatoes  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  pieces  of  pigeons  in  an  upright  position  all 
round  them,  pour  the  sauce  round  the  pigeons,  and  serve. 


POULTRY.  321 

Fried  Pigeon  Cutlets. 

Remove  the  wing-bones  from  four  pigeons  and  tuck  the  leg-bones  inside.  Cut 
them  in  halves,  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  in  a  saut£pan  with  a  little 
butter,  and  fry  them.  When  done  press  them  between  two  plates  with  a  weight  on 
top  till  cold.  Dip  them  first  in  butter  and  then  in  breadcrumbs  and  broil  over  a  good 
fire  to  color  them.  Place  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  fill  the  cavity  in  the  center  either 
with  string  beans,  asparagus,  peas,  sliced  mushrooms  or  with  a  macedoine  of  various 
vegetables. 

Pigeons,  Duchess. 

Clean  the  pigeons,  cut  them  into  quarters,  pour  boiling  water  over  the  claws,  and 
when  sufficiently  soaked  trim  off  the  skin  and  nails.  Sprinkle  over  them  a  little 
black  pepper  and  allspice,  rubbing  it  in  slightly  with  the  hand;  lay  them  in  a  basin, 
pour  some  red  wine  over  them,  cover  and  leave  them  for  several  hours  or  over 
night.  Then  put  them  with  the  wine  into  a  stewpan,  pour  in  enough  brown  stock 
to  cover,  and  boil  them  for  an  hour  over  a  slow  fire.  When  well  cooked  drain  and 
pound  their  livers  in  a  mortar.  Boil  the  cooking  stock  quickly  till  reduced  to 
half  its  original  quantity,  then  mix  with  it  the  pounded  livers  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  desiccated  cocoanut.  Arrange  the  wings  and  claws  of  the  birds  together  to 
form  a  center  piece  for  the  dish,  putting  a  piece  of  watercress  in  each  claw.  Put  it 
in  the  middle  of  a  hot  dish,  lay  the  quarters  of  birds  round  it,  putting  between  each 
quarter  a  small  roll  of  fried  bacon,  pour  round  the  thickened  gravy,  garnish  the 
edge  of  the  dish  with  a  fringe  of  watercress,  on  which  lay  quarters  of  lemon,  and 
serve. 


Epigrammes  of  Pigeons. 


Cut  the  fillets  off  four  pigeons  and  remove  the  skin  and  minion  fillets.  Beat  the 
minion  fillets  lightly,  and  put  them  on  the  other  fillets.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  over  them,  arrange  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  flat  stewpan  with  some  clarified 
butter,  and  cover  over  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  Cut  the  meat  off  the  legs  of 
the  pigeons,  and  with  that,  the  trimmings  of  the  fillets  and  an  equal  quantity  of 
poultry  flesh,  prepare  some  quenelle  forcemeat;  take  up  six  tablespoonfuls  of  it,  put 
them  on  a  floured  table,  and  shape  each  spoonful  of  it  like  the  fillets  of  the  pigeons. 
Place  them  side  by  side  in  a  buttered  sautepan,  stand  it  in  the  bain-marie  and  poach 
them;  when  done,  drain,  and  leave  till  cool.  Dip  the  forcemeat  fillets  in  beaten  eggs 
and  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs  seasoned  with  sweet  herbs.  Fry  the  fillets  of  pigeons, 
and  at  the  same  time  the  fillets  of  forcemeat,  in  a  flat  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter. 
When  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  drain  the  fat  off  the  fillets,  pour  over  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  glaze  and  one  tablespoonful  of  Madeira,  boil  and  move 
the  pan  off  the  fire.  Put  the  fillets  on  a  hot  dish  in  a  circle,  alternating  them  with 


322 


POULTRY. 


the  fillets  of  forcemeat,  fill  the  center  with  a  puree  of  vegetables  or  chestnuts,  pour 
a  little  rich,  brown  gravy  over  them  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  the  same. 

Pigeons,  Financiere   Style. 

Put  four  pigeons,  cleaned  and  trussed,  into  a  stewpan  with  some  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon  on  the  top,  and  chicken  broth  to  their  height;  put  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper  over  them,  cover  the  pan  and  cook  slowly  till  tender.  Prepare  a  garnishing 
of  truffles,  mushrooms,  cockscombs  and  some  chicken  quenelles,  mixed  in  financiere 
sauce.  Fry  a  block  of  bread  three  inches  high,  and  narrower  at  the  top  than  at  the 
bottom.  Drain  the  pigeons,  and  rest  them  against  it,  put  some  of  the  garnishing 
around  the  dish,  and  some  piled  up  between  the  birds.  Place  a  larded  and  glazed 
sweetbread  on  top  of  the  bread.  Pour  a  small  quantity  of  financiere  sauce  over  the 
pigeons,  and  serve  with  some  more  in  a  sauceboat. 

Fricandeau   of  Pigeons. 

Singe  and  draw  four  pigeons,  truss  them  as  for  roasting,  remove  the  feet  and 
pinions,  lard  the  breasts,  and  stuff  them  with  forcemeat.  Place  some  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon  in  a  stewpan,  then  a  layer  of  veal,  put  in  the  pigeons,  also  a  blade  of 
beaten  mace,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  then  cover  the  birds 
with  some  more  veal  and  bacon.  Prepare  with  the  bones  and  trimmings  one  pint  of 
gravy,  pour  it  in  with  the  pigeons,  put  the  lid  on  the  pan,  and  let  the  contents 
cook  slowly  for  an  hour.  Take  the  pigeons  out,  skim  and  strain  the  gravy,  then 
boil  it  till  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity;  put  the  pigeons  in  again  and 
stand  them  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes.  Lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
over,  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve. 

Fricasseed   Pigeons. 

Singe  and  draw  two  pigeons,  and  wipe  them  well  with  a  damp  cloth.  Cut  them 
into  pieces,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan;  pour  in  one  pint  each  of  claret  and  water, 
add  a  blade  of  mace,  one  onion,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and 
one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  that  has  been  kneaded  with  a  little  flour. 
Cover  the  pan,  and  cook  slowly  for  three-fourths  of  an  hour.  Remove  the  pieces  of 
pigeons  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  keep  them  warm.  Strain  the  gravy,  and  stir  in  with  it 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs;  when  thick  pour  it  over  the  meat,  put  some  fried  oysters  on 
top,  garnish  round  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Fried   Pigeons. 

Pluck  and  prepare  three  pigeons  for  cooking,  split  them  into  halves  lengthwise, 
remove  the  breast-bone,  and  beat  the  flesh  flat.  Put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  When  fried,  place  them  between  two 


POULTRY.  323 

plates  with  a  weight  on  top,  and  leave  till  cold.  Prepare  four  ounces  .of  quenelle 
forcemeat,  and  spread  it  over  the  side  of  each  half ;  roll  them  in  beaten  egg  and 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  in  clarified  fat.  When  cooked  put  them  in  a  circle  on  a 
hot  dish,  fill  the  center  with  a  macedoine  of  vegetables,  pour  some  hot  brown  sauce 
round,  and  serve. 

Fried   Pigeons  with   Celery. 

Cut  three  pigeons  into  halves,  brush  them  over  with  egg,  dip  them  into  bread- 
crumbs, plunge  them  into  a  pan  of  boiling  lard,  and  fry  them.  Have  .ready  a  .puree 
qf  celery,  put  it  on  a  dish,  place  the  halves  of  pigeons  on  top,  and  serve  with  croutons 
of  fried  bread  for  garnish. 

Pigeon   Pie. 

Pick  and  draw  some  young  pigeons,  wash  them,  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  add  a  piece  of  onion  and  a.  little  salt,,  cover  the  pan  and  boil  until  tender. 
Take  the  pigeons  .out.,  drain  them,  and  put  in  each  a  teaspoonf-ul  of  butter,  .a  .small 
quantity  of  salt,  pepper,  thyme  and  a  hard-boiled  egg.  Lay  them  in  a  deep  baking- 
dish  and  strain  their  cooking  liquor  over  them;  put  ia  one  teacupful  of  cream, 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  two  tahlespoonfuls  >of  breadcrumbs,  one  tabLespoonful  of 
minced  parsley  and  thyme,  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Cover  the  pie  with  a  rich  crust, 
ornament  it,  stick  four  of  the  claws  an  the  crust,  and  bake  it.  Serve  either  hot  or 
cold.  If  cold  set  the  pie-dish  on  an  under  dish  with  a  .napkin  folded  about  it, 
and  garnish  freely  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

;  Roasted   Pigeons. 

It  is  well  to  stuff  pigeons  for  roasting  with  a  well-seasoned  veal  forcemeat.  Their 
flavor  is  much  improved  by  this  means,  and  parsley  fried  in  butter  can  then  be 
served  with  them.  The  stuffing  should  consist  of  minced  raw  veal,  fat  bacon,  bread- 
crumbs soaked  in  milk,  and  all  mixed  together  and  well  seasoned.  In  America  it  is 
usual  to  serve  roasted  pigeons  with  red  currant  jelly  or  stewed  apples  without  sugar, 
dressed  celery  or  other  salad,  mashed  turnips  or  squash.  All  are  considered  suitable 
for  these  birds. 

Roasted  Pigeons  Stuffed  with   Chestnuts. 

Singe  and  draw  two  pigeons  and  truss  them  as  for  roasting.  Boil  one-half  pint 
of  chestnuts,  and  when  tender  peel  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  the  same  quan- 
tity of  finely-chopped  bacon.  Stuff  the  pigeons  with  the  chestnut  mixture,  put  a  vine 
leaf  on  each  breast  and  bind  them  round  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  bacon;  then  roast 
them  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Chop  fine  the  livers  and  mix  them  with 
a  sprig  of  chopped  parsley,  a  tablespoonful  each  of  sauce  and  gravy,  a  lump  of 
butter,  a  piece  of  grated  lemon  peel;  add  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 


324 


POULTRY. 


Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.   Put  the  birds  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve 
them  with  the  sauce. 

Salmis  of  Pigeons. 

Cut  some  cold  cooked  pigeons  into  nice  pieces,  season  them  on  both  sides  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  flour  them  well;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  cold  water, 
one  ounce  of  butter,  a  few  drops  of  mushroom  catsup,  and  boil  over  a  slow  fire  for  a 
few  minutes.  When  done  turn  the  salmis  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  sippets  of 
toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Pigeons  with   Green   Peas. 

Truss  two  pigeons  with  their  legs  inwards,  cutting  off  the  necks  and  washing  the 
livers  and  returning  them  again  to  the  insides  of  the  birds.  Blanch  four  ounces  of 
streaky  bacon,  cut  it  into  squares  removing  all  rind,  and  fry  it  in  a  stewpan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter.  When  lightly  browned  take  the  bacon  out,  put  the  pigeons  in  and 
fry  them  brown,  then  remove  them  and  place  them  one  side  with  the  bacon.  Stir 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  the  stewpan  with  the  fat,  and  when  cooked  pour  in  one 
and  one-half  pints  of  broth.  When  boiling  strain  it  through  a  conical  strainer  into 
another  stewpan;  put  in  the  pigeons  and  bacon,  one  quart  of  green  peas,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then ,  take 
them  out,  remove  the  strings  and  place  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Take  the  bunch  of  herbs 
out,  skim  the  fat  off  the  peas,  put  them  and  the  bacon  round  the  birds,  and  serve  with 
a  sauceboatful  of  the  strained  gravy. 

Stuffed   Pigeons. 

Pluck,  draw,  and  clean  the  required  quantity  of  pigeons,  and  make  an  incision  in 
the  center  of  each  breast  without  cutting  the  flesh.  Put  the  crumb  of  a  stale  roll  in 
as  much  milk  as  it  will  absorb,  and  when  soft  squeeze  it  well  and  mix  with  it  two  or 
three  finely-chopped  button  mushrooms,  a  moderate  quantity  each  of  chopped  shallot 
and  parsley,  one-half  ounce  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  When  these  in- 
gredients are  well  mixed,  lift  the  skin  on  each  side  of  the  incision  made  in  the  breast 
of  the  bird,  and  stuff  them  with  it.  Sew  up  openings  and  put  a  small  onion  in  each 
bird.  Place  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  few  trimmings  of  ham  or  lean  bacon,  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  and  salt  to  taste.  Moisten  to  height  with  stock,  and  cook  them  over 
a  slow  fire.  When  the  pigeons  are  tender,  strain  off  some  of  their  liquor  into  a 
smaller  stewpan,  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour  and  butter  that  have  been  rolled  together, 
and  add  a  wirieglassful  of  white  wine.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  till  boiling,  then  move  it 
to  the  side.  Toast  some  slices  of  bread,  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  place  the 
pigeons  on  them;  pour  a  small  quantity  of  gravy  round,  and  serve  with  the  remainder 
in  a  sauceboat. 


POULTRY. 


325 


Timbale  of  Pigeons  with   Truffles. 

Pluck,  singe  and  clean  eight  pigeons,  truss  them,  chop  them  into  halves,  put  them 
in  a  sautepan  with  butter  or  bacon  fat,  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  mushrooms,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  truffles,  all  finely  chopped. 
Season  to  taste  with  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  over  a  slow  fire  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Let  them  cool  in  the  liquor,  and  remove  as  many  bones  as  possible. 
Fill  a  mould  with  paste,  mask  the  bottom  and  sides  with  game  forcemeat,  put  in  the 
halves  of  pigeons,  with  a  few  slices  of  truffles  intermixed,  pour  over  the  butter  from 
the  fryingpan,  cover  over  with  a  little  more  of  the  paste,  set  the  mould  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Turn  it  out  when  done,  and  serve. 

Squabs,  American  Style. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  half  a  dozen  fine  fat  squabs,  stuff  them  with  American 
forcemeat,  and  place  them  in  a  roastingpan  with  one  pinch  of  salt  evenly  distributed, 
and  one-half  ounce  of  butter  spread  over.  Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  roast  for 
eighteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Remove  them  from  the  oven,  untruss  and  dress  them 
on  a  hot  dish.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy,  and  add  to  it  one  gill  of  rich  broth; 
let  it  come  to  the  boil,  and  strain  into  a  saucebowl.  Decorate  the  dish  with  a 
small  quantity  of  fresh  watercress,  arrange  a  slice  of  broiled  bacon  over  each  bird, 
and  serve. 

Squab   Ballotines. 

Singe,  draw  and  remove  the  bones  from  half  a  dozen  tender  squabs,  stuff 
them  with  a  nice  chicken  forcemeat,  and  leave  on  one  leg  to  decorate  later  with  a 
truffle.  Form  each  squab  to  a  round  shape,  place  them  in  a  buttered  sautepan, 
season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  cover  with  a  piece 
of  buttered  paper.  Place  the  pan  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  When  cooked 
serve  wifh  one-half  pint  of  hot  Italian  sauce,  laying  the  squabs  on  top,  with  a 
paper  ruffle  fastened  to  each  leg.  Garnish  the  dish  with  watercress. 

Broiled  Squabs. 

Singe  and  pluck  a  couple  of  squabs,  cut  off  the  feet  and  heads  and  wipe  them 
with  a  wet  cloth.  Butter  a  double  gridiron,  lay  the  birds  between  the  bars,  and  brown 
them  quickly  on  both  sides  over  a  clear  brisk  fire.  Shake  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
over  them,  place  them  on  a  dish,  lay  slices  of  orange  round,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Squabs   on   Toast  with   Bacon. 

Singe,  draw,  and  cut  off  the  necks  from  three  good-sized  squabs;  split  them 
without  detaching  them,  lay  them  on  a  dish  and  season  with  one  pinch  of  pepper, 


326  POULTRY. 

one-half  pinch  of  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil;  roll  them  well,  and  broil 
them  for  six  minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  a  dish  with  six  toasts,  arrange  the  squabs 
over,  and  spread  one  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  the  top.  Decorate  the  dish  with 
six  slices  of  broiled  bacon,  and  serve. 


Squabs,  Chipolata. 


Prepare  and  roast  half  a  dozen  squabs,  and  serve  them  with  one  pint  of  hot 
chipolata  garnishing  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  squabs  neatly  arranged  over. 

Compote  of  Squabs. 

Singe,  draw,  and  truss  with  their  legs  thrust  inside  six  fine,  fat  squabs,  lay  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  one-half  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  chopped  carrot  and  chopped  onion. 
Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  put  the  lid  on  the  pan,  and  cook  on  a  good  fire  for  ten 
minutes.  Put  in  a  saucepan  six  small  glazed  onions,  one  medium-sized  carrot,  cut 
with  a  vegetable  scoop  one  ounce  of  salt  pork  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  six  cut-up 
mushrooms:;,  moisten  them  with  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  cook  together  for 
thirty  minutes.  Transfer  the  squabs  to  this  mixture,  and  cook  again  for  five  minutes. 
Dress  the  garnishing  on  a  hat  dish,  arrange  the  squabs  on  top,  and  serve. 

Squabs,  Crapaudine. 

Singe  and  draw  six  tender  squabs,  splitting  them  through  the  back  without  en- 
tirely dividing  them;  break  the  bones  of  the  legs  and  wings,  flatten  them  well  and  lay 
them  on  a  dish,  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  one  pinch  of  pepper  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  roll  them  in  well,  then  dip  them  in  breadcrumbs,  and  broil  slowly 
for  seven  or  eight  minutes  on  each  side.  Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with 
one-half  pint  of  hot  Robert  sauce,  to  which  should  be  added  three  chopped  mush- 
rooms. Serve  the  sauce  on  a  dish  with  the  squabs  on  top. 

Squab    Pie. 

Make  a  rich  paste  and  line  a  deep  earthenware  dish  with  it.  Cut  about  one 
pound  of  tender  roast  of  veal  into  slices  one-half  inch  thick  first  removing  the  bones, 
and  place  a  layer  of  meat  around  the  sides  and  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  Carefully 
pluck  six  squabs,  cut  off  the  heads  and  feet,  singe  and  draw  them,  wiping  them  with 
a  wet  towel;  cut  the  livers  and  gizzards  fine  together  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fat 
salted  pork  or  bacon,  add  to  them  an  equal  measure  of  fine  breadcrumbs,  one  egg 
and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  use  this  forcemeat  to  stuff  the  squabs  with. 
Lay  them  in  a  deep  dish  prepared  as  above  and  cover  them  with  some  slices  of  veal. 
Put  over  the  fire  in  a  fryingpan  one  dessertspoonful  each  of  butter  and  flour,  stir  until 
brown  and  then  mix  in  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  water  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  When  this  sauce  boils  pour  it  into  the  pie,,  and  cover 


POULTRY.  327 

with  an  upper  crust  of  paste,  wetting  the  edges  to  cause  them  to  adhere;  cut  several 
slits  in  the  upper  crust  and  brush  over  with  beaten  egg.  Bake  the  pie  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  two  hours,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn.  If  the  crust  browns  too  quickly 
cover  it  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  lessen  the  heat  of  the  oven.  The  pie  may  be 
served  either  hot  or  cold  as  desired. 


Roasted   Squabs. 


Singe,  draw,  cut  off  the  necks  and  wipe  neatly  six  fine  squabs;  put  them  in  a 
roastingpan  with  one-half  pinch  of  salt,  evenly  spread,  and  a  little  butter;  place  the 
pan  in  a  sharp  oven  and  cook  the  birds  for  twelve  or  fourteen  minutes;  then  remove 
from  the  oven,  untruss  and  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish  on  which  have  been  previously 
placed  six  small  canapes  of  game,  one  on  each  canape.  Decorate  the  dish  neatly 
with  fresh  watercress.  Skim  the  fat  from  the  gravy  and  add  to  it  one  gill  of  white 
broth.  Allow  it  to  just  come  to  the  boil;  then  strain  it  into  a  saucebowl,  and  serve. 


Turkeys. 


There  is  some  difference  in  the  methods  adopted  for  trussing  a  turkey  for  roasting 
or  braising  and  boiling.  For  roasting  the  same  process  as  that  described  under  truss- 
ing poultry  is  employed.  For  braising  or  boiling,  trussing  differs  from  the  former  in 
that  the  legs  are  tucked  under  the  apron  as  follows : 

Singe  and  draw  the  bird,  cut  the  legs  off  at  the  first  joint,  pass  the  finger  into 
the  inside,  raise  the  skin  of  the  legs,  and  tuck  them  under  the  apron  of  the  bird. 
Pass  a  skewer  through  a  joint  of  the  wing  and  the  middle  joint  of  the  leg,  and  run  it 
through  the  body  and  the  other  leg  and  wing.  Clean  the  liver  and  gizzard,  and  tuck 
them  in  with  the  pinions.  Turn  the  small  end  of  the  pinion  on  the  back,  and  fasten 
some  twine  over  the  ends  of  the  legs  to  keep  them  in  their  places. 

Turkeys  are  often  boned  for  making  galantines  or  preparing  other  dishes  in  which 
the  meat  of  the  turkey  without  the  skeleton  is  preferred.  In  some  of  the  following 
recipes  the  boning  of  the  turkey  is  prescribed,  and  the  following  is  the  method  by 
which  it  should  be  done  : 

The  skin  of  the  turkey  for  boning  must  not  be  broken  or  damaged  in  the  slightest 
way,  otherwise  the  effect  will  be  spoiled.  Pluck  and  singe  the  bird,  chop  off  the  head 
and  lower  joints  of  the  legs,  and  the  tips  of  the  wings,  and  draw  out  the  tendons  from 
the  legs,  loosening  the  skin  round  the  drumstick.  The  turkey  must  not  be  drawn 
before  boning.  Place  the  bird  on  its  breast  on  a  board,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  make 
a  cut  through  the  skin  of  the  neck  to  the  middle  of  the  back  or  near  the  junction  of 
the  side  bone.  Scrape  away  the  flesh  with  the  skin  until  the  end  of  the  shoulder- 
blade  is  reached,  ease  the  flesh  from  this  and  continue  to  follow  the  bone  to  the 
shoulder  joint  down  to  the  middle  joint  in  the  wing.  Care  must  be  taken  at  this 
point,  as  the  skin  lies  very  near  the  bone.  The  lower  or  first  bone  should  be  left 


328  POULTRY. 

in  the  wing,  as  it  is  not  in  the  way  of  carving,  and  helps  to  form  the  bird  into 
shape.  Should  the  turkey  be  small,  the  wings  may  be  chopped  off  at  the  middle 
joint,  as  there  is  but  little  meat  on  them.  Serve  the  other  wing  in  the  same  way, 
and  then  follow  the  collarbone,  loosening  the  crop  from  the  flesh.  Care  must  again 
be  taken  in  removing  the  flesh  from  the  breast-bone  not  to  cut  through  the  skin 
on  the  ridge ;  it  should  be  pushed  away  with  the  fingers,  and  the  pieces  that  are 
detached  from  the  other  flesh  can  be  inserted  in  their  places  afterward.  As  soon  as 
the  breast-bone  is  freed  of  meat,  take  off  that  from  the  ribs,  then  take  it  from  the  legs 
at  the  top  joint,  and  then  the  drumsticks,  turning  the  flesh  inside  out  as  if  you  were 
pulling  a  glove  from  your  finger.  When  both  of  the  legs  have  been  boned,  scrape 
down  to  the  end  of  the  backbone,  and  cut  through  the  bone,  leaving  a  part  of  it  in 
the  tail  to  hold  the  skewers.  Now  separate  the  membrane  under  the  body,  and  all 
the  flesh  should  be  in  the  skin,  while  the  skeleton  containing  the  inside  can  be  pulled 
away  at  the  neck. 

Boiled   Turkey. 

Singe  and  draw  a  turkey  and  truss  it  as  for  boiling.  Wrap  the  gird  in  a  cloth, 
place  it  in  a  saucepan  with-  plenty  of  hot  water  and  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises  to  the 
top;  when  the  water  boils  move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer 
from  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bird.  When 
cooked  drain  the  turkey,  remove  the  cloth,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  small  quantity 
of  parsley  and  butter  over  it,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  sauce. 

Boiled   Turkey, 'English   Style. 

Select  a  very  fine  tender  turkey  of  about  five  pounds  in  weight,  singe  and  draw 
it,  and  truss  with  a  needle  from  the  wing  to  the  leg.  Place  it  in  a  soup  pot,  cook  for 
one  hour  and  remove  it  to  a  hot  dish.  Decorate  the  dish  with  one  pint  of  cooked 
spinach,  English  style,  and  six  slices  of  hot  cooked  lean  ham.  Serve  with  one-half 
breakfast  cupful  of  hot  broth  poured  over  the  turkey  so  as  to  keep  it  moist. 

Boiled   Turkey  Stuffed  with   Celery. 

Wash  half  a  head  of  celery,  chop  it  vtry  fine,  mix  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls 
of  stale  breadcrumbs  with  it,  add  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  two  ounces  of  warmed  butter  and  two  beaten  eggs,  and  stir  all  to- 
gether until  thoroughly  mixed.  Stuff  the  turkey  with  the  mixture,  sew  up  the  open- 
ings and  truss  it.  Rinse  a  cloth  in  cold  water,  wring  it  out  and  dredge  it  with  flour. 
Wrap  the  turkey  in  a  cloth,  tying  it  securely,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water 
and  boil  it  quickly  for  twenty  minutes;  then  move  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it 
simmer.  Allow  three  hours  for  a  turkey  weighing  nine  or  ten  pounds,  and  about  ten 
minutes  for  every  additional  pound.  When  cooked  drain  the  bird,  put  it  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  serve  it  with  a  sauceboatful  of  celery  sauce. 


POULTRY. 


329 


Boiled  Turkey  with  Oyster  Sauce. 

Select  a  tender  hen  turkey  weighing  about  seven  pounds,  have  it  carefully 
plucked,  singed  and  wiped  with  a  wet  towel,  cut  off  the  head  and  feet  and  draw  it  with- 
out breaking  the  intestines;  stuff  it  with  equal  quantities  of  stale  bread  and  oysters 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  or  truss  it  unstuffed.  Place  it  over  the  fire  in  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  cover  it,  skim  off  all  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  boil  the 
turkey  gently  for  about  two  hours,  or  until  it  is  tender.  Place  the  bird  on  a  dish, 
and  serve  oyster  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Turkey,  Bourgeoise  Style. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  a  turkey,  as  for  roasting,  but  do  not  stuff  it,  and  roast  it 
in  a  hot  oven,  basting  it  well  with  butter  until  nicely  browned.  Place  a  few  slices  of 
veal  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  stewpan,  put  in  the  turkey,  cover  it  with  slices  of  bacon, 
moisten  to  its  height  with  stock  or  broth,  put  in  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  season 
to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  let  it  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  When 
cooked  take  the  turkey  out  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  cooking 
liquor,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  over  the  bird,  and  serve. 

Braised  Turkey. 

Draw  a  turkey,  truss  it  as  for  boiling,  and  stuff  it  with  a  chestnut-and-truffle 
stuffing,  which  should  be  made  as  follows  •  Peel  off  the  dark  skin  from  a  quantity 
of  chestnuts,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  bay  leaves,  a  handful  of  coriander 
seeds,  a  lump  of  salt  and  plenty  of  water,  boil,  and  when  nearly  soft,  drain  them,  and 
remove  the  inner  skin.  Put  one  pound  of  finely-minced  bacon  and  two  or  three  chopped 
shallots  into  a  stewpan,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Cut  one  pound 
of  chestnuts  up  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  with  the  bacon,  add  one-half  pound  of 
truffles,  also  cut  into  moderate-sized  pieces,  and  season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt,  spices 
and  a  moderate  quantity  each  of  thyme  and  marjoram.  Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire 
for  two  or  three  minutes  longer,  then  stuff  the  bird  with  it.  Put  a  few  slices  of  bacon  at 
the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  and  put  in  the  bird  with  three  or  four  sliced  carrots,  onions, 
a  clove  of  garlic,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  tied  together  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley 
and  a  bay  leaf,  add  a  few  peppercorns  and  salt  to  taste,  moisten  to  height  with  one- 
half  pint  of  sherry  and  clear  stock  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  Put 
the  lid  on  the  pan  with  some  hot  ashes  on  it,  and  place  it  over  a  slow  fire.  Braise 
the  turkey  for  about  four  hours,  and  when  cooked,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Strain  the 
cooking  liquor  into  a  small  saucepan,  skim  off  all  the  fat  and  boil  it  up  again;  then 
pour  it  over  the  bird,  garnish  round  with  potato  croquettes  and  Brussels  sprouts,  and 
serve. 


330  POULTRY. 

Braised  Turkey  Stuffed  with  Truffles. 

Singe  and  draw  a  fat  hen  turkey,  cut  the  neck  off,  leaving  i.ne  crop  skin  as  long 
as  possible,  scald  the  feet  and  rub  off  the  skin.  Peel  three  pounds  of  truffles  and 
cut  them  into  small  balls.  Put  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  grated  fat  bacon  into  a 
fryingpan,  put  in  two  shallots,  two  bay  leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme  and  one  clove  of 
garlic,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt  and  fry  over  a  slow  fire.  When  cool, 
strain  the  melted  bacon  fat  into  a  basin  and  put  in  the  truffles  and  half  of  the  truf- 
fle trimmings,  chopped.  Stuff  the  turkey  with  the  above  mixture  and  truss  it  as  for 
boiling.  Line  a  braisingpan  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  place  the  turkey  in  wrapped  in 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  cover  it  with  three  pints  of  mirepoix  and  one-half  pint  of 
Madeira.  When  the  liquor  boils,  move  the  braisingpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  place 
hot  ashes  on  the  lid  and  braise  the  turkey.  Make  some  hot  perigueux  sauce,  using  up 
the  balance  of  the  truffle  trimmings.  When  cooked,  drain  the  turkey,  untie  it,  place 
it  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  of  the  hot  sauce  over  it,  and  serve  with  the  remainder  in 
a  sauceboat. 

Braised  Larded  Turkey  with  Chestnut  Puree. 

Singe  and  draw  a  small  turkey,  break  the  breastbone,  cut  the  legs  at  the  first 
joint  and  remove  the  bone  to  shorten  the  legs.  When  the  legs  have  been  singed, 
push  them  into  the  thighs  by  the  opening  of  the  drumsticks.  Chop  fine  a  quantity 
of  beef-suet,  mix  an  equal  quantity  of  breadcrumbs  with  it,  and  truss  the  bird  with  a 
strong  string.  Set  the  skin  of  the  breast  and  legs  by  singeing,  and  lard  it  with  bacon. 
Put  some  trimmings  of  bacon  and  vegetables  into  a  braisingpan,  put  in  the  turkey, 
moisten  it  to  its  height  with  broth  and  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper. 
When  boiling,  move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  put  some  hot  ashes  on  the  lid  and 
let  the  broth  simmer  till  the  turkey,  which  should  be  continually  basted  with  its  own 
cooking  liquor,  is  done.  Glaze  the  breast  of  the  bird  with  a  paste-brush,  and  when 
well  browned,  drain  ft  and  put  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Mix  an  equal  quantity  of  white 
wine  with  the  cooking  liquor,  skim  off  the  fat,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  into 
another  stewpan  and  boil  it  quickly  until  it  is  reduced  to  half-glaze.  Serve  the 
turkey  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat  and  a  separate  dish  of  chestnut  puree. 

Turkey  Breasts,  Spanish  Style. 

Proceed  as  for  turkey  breasts  chipolata,  but  after  cooking  for  twenty  minutes 
only  take  the  turkey  off,  place  it  in  another  saucepan  and  baste  it  with  its  own  gravy, 
adding  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce.  Blanch  one-half  pint  of  chicken  or  turkey 
livers,  cut  them  into  two  or  three  pieces  each,  according  to  their  size,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  the  turkey,  adding  one-half  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine.  Cook 
for  twenty  minutes  longer,  and  serve  with  the  livers  placed  round  the  breasts  and  the 
gravy  poured  over. 


POULTRY.  331 


Turkey   Croquettes. 


Cut  the  meat  off  the  breast  of  a  cold  cooked  turkey,  trim  off  the  skin  and  fat 
and  cut  the  lean  into  small  squares;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  rice  that  has  been  boiled  in  broth  till  dry  and  of  whole  grain,  sprinkle  in  one  table- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder  and  keep  it  covered.  Pour  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  into 
a  flat  stewpan  and  boil  it  until  reduced,  stirring  and  adding  gradually  sufficient  melted 
glaze  to  bring  it  to  a  creamy  consistency.  Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder 
with  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  stir  it  into  the  sauce,  then  pour  the  whole  over  the 
meat  and  rice.  Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  then  turn  it  into  a 
basin  and  leave  it  until  cool.  When  firm  divide  the  mixture  into  equal  quantities 
with  a  tablespoon,  roll  them  in  finely  grated  breadcrumbs,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and 
roll  in  breadcrumbs  again.  Boil  a  quantity  of  lard  in  a  fryingpan,  plunge  the  cro- 
quettes into  it  and  fry  them  until  they  are  well  and  equally  browned.  When  cooked 
drain  them,  put  them  on  a  dish-paper  placed  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish,  and  serve. 


Fillets  of  Turkey,  Milanese. 


Remove  the  sinewy  skin  from  two  breast  fillets  that  have  been  cut  from  a  small 
raw  turkey,  cut  the  meat  into  slices  slanting  lengthwise,  trim  them  and  beat  them 
lightly.  Dip  the  slices  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  freshly-grated  breadcrumbs.  Melt 
a  lump  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  put  the  fillets  in  and  fry  them  quickly  on  both  sides 
till  well  browned.  Put  a  garnish  of  rice  with  mayonnaise  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish; 
when  cooked  arrange  the  fillets  in  a  circle  round  it,  pour  over  them  the  butter  in 
which  they  were  cooked,  and  serve  them. 

Turkey  Fricassee. 

Separate  the  meat  from  the  bones  of  some  remains  of  cold  cooked  turkey,  cut  it 
into  small  pieces,  and  season  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  Pour  one  tea- 
cupful  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  with  a  thin  strip  of  lemon  peel,  and  boil  it  for  five 
minutes.  Mix  one  dessertspoonful  of  cornstarch  to  a  paste  with  a  little  cold  milk, 
then  stir  it  into  the  milk  in  the  saucepan,  and  keep  on  stirring  it  over  the  fire  for  two 
minutes;  then  take  out  the  lemon  peel,  remove  the  sauce  from  the  fire,  and  allow  it 
to  cool  for  several  moments.  Add  one-half  ounce  of  butter  to  the  sauce,  put  it  in  the 
cut-up  meat,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  hot.  While  the  turkey  is  being  warmed  up 
fry  some  thin  squares  of  bacon.  Turn  the  turkey  onto  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  bacon 
around,  and  serve. 

Turkey  Giblets. 

These  should  be  carefully  preserved  as  they  come  in  very  handy  for  making 
sauce  or  gravy,  or  they  can  be  used  to  make  dishes  by  themselves.  The  old-fashioned 
system  of  tucking  the  gizzard  and  the  liver  into  the  wings  when  trussing  for  roasting 


332 


POULTRY. 


has  long  since  been  condemned  by  common  sense,  they  being  spoiled  by  drying  and 
hardening  in  the  cooking. 

The  gizzard,  liver  and  heart  should  be  placed  in  a  pan  of  water  as  soon  as  it  is 
removed  from  the  interior  of  the  bird.  The  liver  should  be  well  squeezed  in  the 
water  in  order  to  disgorge  it  of  its  blood,  and  the  heart  should  be  cut  open  and  also 
disgorged.  The  gizzard  or  crop  should  be  cut  open  and  all  the  stones  or  other  con- 
tents be  washed  out;  the  thick  white  lining  can  be  peeled  off.  The  feet  must  be 
scalded  and  skinned,  and  any  odd  pieces  of  the  neck  may  also  be  skinned  and  other- 
wise cleaned  for  making  gravy. 


Turkey  Giblets  on  Skewers. 


Remove  the  gall  from  the  livers  of  two  or  three  turkeys,  and  cut  them  into 
moderate-sized  squares,  split  the  hearts  in  two,  open  and  empty  the  gizzards  and 
wash  them  well  in  warm  water.  Run  a  thread  through  the  gizzards,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  quantity  of  stock,  and  boil  them  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Drain,  divide  and  trim  off  the  hard  skin,  and  cut  them  into  the  same  sized  pieces  as 
the  livers.  Season  the  giblets  with  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  and  baste  them 
with  a  small  quantity  of  oil,  and  mix  with  them  the  same  quantity  of  thin  squares  of 
bacon  as  there  are  gizzard  and  liver  squares.  File  the  meat  on  skewers  in  alternate 
order,  roll  them  in  finely  grated  breadcrumb,  place  them  side  by  side  on  a  gridiron 
and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  when  done  on  one  side.  When  nicely 
browned  put  the  skewers  of  giblets  on  a  folded  napkin  laid  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Stewed  Turkey   Giblets  with  Turnips. 

Clean  and  blanch  a  pair  of  turkey  giblets.  Divide  the  neck  and  gizzard  each  into  four 
pieces,  and  cut  the  pinions  and  legs  in  two.  Cut  one-half  pound  of  streaky  bacon 
into  slices  one  inch  thick,  then  divide  them  into  pieces  one  and  one-half  inches  long; 
place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  fry  till  they  are  lightly  browned. 
Take  the  bacon  out,  put  in  the  giblets  and  fry  them.  Put  the  bacon  back  into  the 
stewpan  with  the  giblets,  add  one  pound  of  turnips  cut  to  the  shape  of  corks,  ten  or 
twelve  button  onions  and  one  ounce  of  butter.  Fry  the  above  ingredients  until 
browned,  then  put  in  fifteen  peeled  potatoes,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  one  quart 
of  water;  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  let  the  whole  simmer  gently  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Ten  minutes  before  dishing  the  stew,  put  in  the 
turkey  livers.  When  cooked,  take  the  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  out  of  the  stew  and 
skim  off  the  fat.  Turn  the  giblets  onto  a  hot  dish,  arranging  them  with  the  heart, 
livers,  gizzards  and  legs  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  place  the  pieces  of  neck  round 
them,  put  the  pinions  on  top,  pour  over  the  remainder  of  the  stew,  and  serve  at  once. 


POULTRY.  333 

Hashed  Turkey. 

Cut  up  whatever  may  be  left  of  a  roasted  turkey  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan;  add 
to  it  some  shallots,  mushrooms  and  truffles,  chopped  parsley,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cullis,  about  a  half  pint  of  stock,  or  a  little  more,  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and 
a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  allow  it  to  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Then  add 
one  pounded  anchovy  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice.  Skim  off  the  fat,  and 
serve  hot  all  together. 

Hashed  Turkey,  Royal. 

Take  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  nicely-shaped  pieces  of  cooked  turkey,  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mush- 
room liquor,  and  two  truffles  cut  into  square  pieces.  Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt, 
one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  all  heated  together  for  ten 
minutes;  then  serve  with  six  heart-shaped  pieces  of  bread  for  a  garnish. 

Hashed  Turkey  with   Cream. 

This  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  hashed  turkey  royal,  substituting  one 
pint  of  cold  cream  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  for  the  bechamel  sauce,  omitting 
the  truffles,  and  reducing  the  cream  with  the  hash  to  one-half,  which  will  take  about 
four  or  five  minutes.  Pour  the  whole  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Turkey's   Legs. 

Cut  off  the  legs  of  a  cold  roasted  turkey,  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt,  pepper 
and  cayenne,  and  cut  them  slightly  across  with  a  sharp  knife.  Squeeze  some  lemon 
juice  over,  place  them  on  a  well-greased  gridiron  and  broil  until  nicely  browned  on 
both  sides  over  a  clear  fire.  When  finished  place  the  legs  on  a  hot  dish,  baste  them 
with  warmed  butter,  and  serve. 

Deviled  Turkey's  Legs. 

Cut  and  trim  the  legs  of  a  cold  cooked  turkey  and  season  them  well  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Mix  a  small  quantity  of  mustard  to  a  paste  with  some  oil,  rub  the  legs 
in  it  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  and  basting  often.  When  nicely  colored 
put  the  legs  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  rich  brown  gravy  over  them,  and  serve. 

Minced  Turkey  with    Poached  Eggs. 

Singe  and  draw  a  turkey  weighing  about  eight  pounds,  boil  it  gently  until  cooked, 
then  drain  and  leave  it  until  it  is  cool.  Cut  all  the  flesh  off  the  bones,  chop  it  fine, 
mix  with  it  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  finely-grated  breadcrumbs.  Place  the  bones  and 


334  POULTRY. 

trimmings  of  the  turkey  in  a  saucepan  with  an  onion  and  three  quarts  of  broth,  boil 
quickly  till  it  is  reduced  to  half  its  former  quantity,  and  then  strain  it.  Put  a  lump  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
browned,  then  mix  in  gradually  the  strained  broth,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
stir  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  then  put  in  the  minced  turkey  and  breadcrumbs,  and 
continue  stirring  until  it  is  hot  all  through.  Take  up  the  mince  in  breakfast  cupfuls, 
flatten  it,  turn  it  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  place  a  poached  egg  on  each  mound,  and  serve. 


Turkey  Patties. 


Mince  the  flesh  of  some  cold  cooked  remains  of  turkey,  and  season  it  with  a 
little  grated  lemon  peel  and  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
sufficient  cream  and  butter  to  make  it  of  a  proper  consistency,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  hot.  Butter  some  small  patty  pans,  line  them  with  paste,  fill  them  with  the 
above  mixture,  place  a  paste  cover  on  the  top,  and  trim  the  edges,  moistening  and 
pressing  them  together.  Bake  the  patties  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked  re- 
move them  from  the  tins,  place  them  on  a  folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper 
placed  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Turkey  Pie. 


Pick  the  meat  from  the  remains  of  some  cold  roast  turkey,  and  chop  it  fine. 
Put  the  mince  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  pounded  mace,  pepper 
and  salt,  judging  the  amount  by  the  quantity  of  the  meat;  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour 
that  has  been  worked  with  butter,  and  stew  it  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Line  a  but- 
ter dish  with  a  good  piecrust,  and  when  the  above  mixture  is  cold  pour  it  over  the 
paste,  place  a  paste  cover  on  the  top,  moisten  and  press  the  edges  together,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven.  When  cooked  the  pie  can  be  served  either  hot  or  cold. 

Roast  Turkey. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  a  turkey,  season  it  interiorly  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper, 
put  it  in  a  baking-dish  with  the  washed  liver  and  gizzard,  and  sufficient  water  to  make 
the  gravy,  and  bake  it  in  a  brisk  oven,  basting  frequently,  When  it  begins  to  brown 
dredge  it  over  with  flour,  turning  it  often  so  that  each  part  can  be  equally  browned. 
Cover  the  breast  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  When  cooked,  cut  the  liver  and 
gizzard  up,  place  them  in  a  small  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  cream,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  hot.  Place  the  turkey  on  a  hot  dish,  first 
removing  the  paper  from  the  breast.  Skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy  into  the  bakingpan, 
and  strain  it  into  the  saucepan  with  the  gizzard  and  liver.  Pour  the  gravy  over  the 
turkey,  and  serve  it  while  very  hot. 


POULTRY.  335 

Roasted  Turkey,  Financiere  Style. 

Prepare  the  bird  as  for  roastiug,  season  the  interior  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  thyme  and  parsley,  and  a  small  quantity  of  mace,  pepper  and  salt. 
Stuff  the  bird  with  veal  forcemeat,  make  an  incision  down  each  side  of  the  breast, 
and  fill  them  with  washed  and  sliced  truffles.  Put  the  bird  in  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle 
a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper  over  it,  and  allow  it  to  soak  in  wine  for  twelve 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  fasten  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  the  bird,  and 
roast  it  in  a  brisk  oven  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  bird.  Baste  it  in  the  wine  in  which  it  marinaded  until  it  is  half  cooked,  and  then 
continue  basting  it  with  butter.  Pour  the  remainder  of  the  wine  into  a  saucepan  with 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  rich,  brown  gravy,  one  tablespoonful  of  Indian  soy,  and  the 
strained  juice  of  one  lemon,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  boiling, 
move  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  keep  it  simmering  gently  for  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes.  When  cooked,  take  the  turkey  up,  remove  the  buttered  paper, 
place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round  it,  and  serve. 

Roasted  Turkey  Stuffed  with  Bacon  and   Truffles. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  a  turkey.  Wash  and  peel  one  and  one-half  pounds  of 
truffles,  chop  them,  place  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them.  Chop  and  pound  an 
equal  quantity  of  fat  bacon,  and  mix  it  with  the  truffles.  Stuff  the  bird  with  the 
mixture,  cover  the  breast  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  roast  it  in  the  oven, 
basting  ft  frequently  with  butter.  When  the  bird  is  nearly  done,  remove  the  paper, 
dredge  it  over  with  flour,  and  baste  with  butter  till  nicely  browned.  When  cooked 
place  the  turkey  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  rich,  brown  gravy  over  it,  and  serve  with 
a  sauceboatful  of  the  same. 

Roasted  Turkey  Stuffed  with  Chestnuts. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  the  bird  as  for  roasting;  peel  fifty  or  sixty  chestnuts, 
blanch  them  in  boiling  water  until  the  inner  skin  can  be  easily  removed,  and  then  boil 
them  until  soft;  drain  and  chop  them  very  fine.  Empty  two  marrow  bones,  and 
cut  the  marrow  into  small  pieces;  mix  these  and  the  chestnuts  together,  season  the 
mixture  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  stuff  the  turkey  with  it.  Cover  the  breast 
with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  lay  the  bird  on  a  bakingpan,  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven, 
basting  it  constantly  with  butter.  When  nearly  cooked,  take  the  paper  off  the  turkey, 
sprinkle  over  some  flour  and  a  little  salt,  and  baste  it  with  butter  till  frothed  and 
browned.  When  cooked,  place  the  bird  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  chestnut  sauce 
over  it,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  brown  gravy,  and  a  sauceboatful  of 
bread  sauce. 


336  POULTRY. 

Roasted   Turkey  Stuffed  with  Oysters. 

Prepare  the  bird  as  for  roasting;  crumble  sufficient  breadcrumbs  to  make  four 
breakfast  cupfuls  and  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  crushed  oyster  crackers. 
Warm  one-half  pound  of  butter  and  stir  it  in  with  the  breadcrumbs,  with  the  liquor 
from  four  or  five  dozen  oysters,  and  two  beaten  eggs.  Put  in  the  oysters,  season  the 
mixture  to  taste,  then  stuff  the  turkey  with  it,  putting  it  in  loosely  so  that  the  crumbs 
may  absorb  the  gravy.  Cover  the  bird  with  a  thickly-buttered  sheet  of  paper  on  a 
pan,  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  it  often  with  butter.  Ten  minutes  before 
removing  the  bird  from  the  fire  take  off  the  paper,  sprinkle  over  flour  and  salt,  and 
baste  it  again  wifh  butter  to  color  it.  When  cooked,  place  the  turkey  on  a  hot  dish. 
Prepare  some  brown  sauce  with  the  contents  of  the  drippingpan,  pour  a  small  quantity 
of  it  round  the  bird,  and  serve  with  the  remainder  in  a  sauceboat. 


Roast  Turkey,  Turkish  Style. 

Clean  and  truss  a  turkey.  Wash  and  partly  boil  one  breakfast  cupful  of  rice, 
then  drain  it,  and  mix  with  it  about  one  dozen  chestnuts  peeled  and  cut  into  small 
pieces,  one-fourth  pound  of  well  washed  currants,  and  two  ounces  of  blanched  and 
chopped  pistachio  nuts,  seasoning  the  mixture  with  salt  and  a  small  quantity  each  of 
cayenne  pepper  and  ground  cinnamon.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan  and  place  it  over  the  fire;  when  melted  pour  in  the  mixture  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  well  mixed  with  the  butter.  Stuff  the  turkey  with  this,  sew  up  the  breast, 
place  it  on  a  baking  dish  and  bake  it,  keeping  it  well  basted  with  butter.  When 
cooked,  place  the  bird  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich,  clear  gravy. 

Scalloped  Turkey. 

Cut  off  all  the  meat  from  a  boiled  or  roasted  turkey  and  mince  it  very  fine. 
Crack  and  break  the  carcass,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  together  with  the  fat,  skin  and 
gristle,  cover  it  with  cold  water  and  let  it  simmer  to  make  the  gravy.  Grease  the 
inside  of  a  piedish,  cover  the  bottom  with  a  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  over  this  put  a 
layer  of  minced  turkey,  on  this  lay  bits  of  butter  and  any  bits  of  stuffing,  then  a 
layer  of  breadcrumbs,  and  so  on  until  all  the  minced  turkey  is  used  up.  When  all 
the  goodness  is  extracted  from  the  bones  strain  the  gravy,  pour  it  back  into  the 
saucepan  and  thicken  the  browned  flour.  Pour  some  of  this  gravy  into  the  piedish 
and  with  the  remainder  of  it  moisten  sufficient  fine  breadcrumbs  to  form  a  smooth 
paste  over  the  top;  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  spread  the  moistened 
breadcrumbs  evenly  and  rather  thickly  over  the  scallops.  Lay  a  dish  over  all  and 
bake  it  for  half  an  hour;  then  remove  the  cover,  and,  when  browned,  serve. 


POULTRY. 


337 


Stewed  Turkey  with   Celery. 

Clean  and  truss  a  hen  turkey  as  for  boiling,  stuff  it  with  veal  forcemeat,  place  it 
in  a  large  saucepan  with  plenty  of  hot  water,  and  boil  it  gently  until  tender.  When 
the  turkey  is  done  take  half  of  the  cooking  liquor  and  put  it  into  another  saucepan 
with  four  well-washed  heads  of  celery,  and  stew  them  until  tender.  Remove  the 
celery  from  the  liquor,  put  in  the  turkey,  breast  downward,  and  boil  it  gently  for 
twenty  minutes;  then  drain  it,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  keep  it  near  the  fire.  Stir 
one  ounce  of  butter  into  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  put  it  in  the  celery  liquor,  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  put  in  the  celery  cut  up  into  short  lengths,  and  warm 
it  again.  Pour  the  sauce  and  celery  over  the  turkey,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Turkey  with  Noodles. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  a  turkey  with  the  legs  turned  in.  Melt  some  bacon  fat  in 
a  stewpan,  put  in  the  bird,  cover  the  breast  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  and  fry  it 
over  a  moderate  fire  until  nicely  browned.  Pour  some  broth  in  with  the  turkey  to 
three-fourths  its  height,  add  two  or  three  small  onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
piece  of  celery  root,  four  or  five  cloves  and  eight  or  ten  peppercorns.  Boil  the  liquor 
for  ten  minutes,  then  move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  place  some  hot  ashes  on 
the  lid,  and  stew  the  turkey  until  cooked.  Prepare  a  garnish  of  noodles,  finishing  it 
with  butter  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  then  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Remove  the 
string  from  the  turkey  and  place  it  on  the  dish  with  the  noodles.  Skim  and  strain 
the  cooking  liquor,  thicken  it  with  tomato  sauce  and  boil  it  for  a  few  minutes.  Pour 
a  small  quantity  of  the  sauce  over  the  bird,  and  serve  it  with  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Turkey,  Toulouse. 

Peel  from  two  to  three  pounds  of  raw  truffles,  chop  the  trimmings  with  one-half 
pound  of  fresh  bacon,  place  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them,  passing  the  mixture 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Singe  and  draw  the  turkey,  stuff  it  with  the  pounded  mix- 
ture, truss  it,  fasten  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  around,  place  it  in  a  pan  and  roast  it  in 
a  hot  oven,  basting  now^and  then  with  butter.  Ten  minutes  prior  to  taking  the  bird 
out  remove  the  paper  and  let  it  brown,  dusting  it  over  with  salt.  Place  some  slices 
of  toast  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  turkey  on  them,  garnish  with  roasted  quails  at  each 
side  and  the  truffles,  seasoned  and  boiled  in  white  wine,  at  each  end,  and  serve  with  a 
sauceboatful  of  rich  gravy. 


Game. 

Canvas-Back  Duck. 

When  served  the  breast  only  is  carved.  Stick  the  fork  straight  and  firmly  into 
the  middle  of  the  breastbone,  commence  from  the  neck  down  to  the  back,  straight  to 
the  backbone,  and  around  the  back  ;  then  from  the  point  of  starting  around  the  collar- 
bone. Cut  the  joint  off  the  wing.  Commence  cutting  again  from  the  point  of  start- 
ing ;  carefully  and  gently  carving  off  the  entire  breast  so  that  no  meat  remains. 
Proceed  precisely  the  same  with  the  other  side.  When  finished  there  will  remain 
only  the  carcass.  The  more  quickly  the  duck  is  cooked  the  finer  flavored  it  will  be ; 
and  the  hot  dish  for  serving  and  also  hot  plates  should  always  be  ready  before  the 
ducks  are  done.  The  ducks  should  never  be  overdone. 

Broiled  Canvas-Back  Ducks. 

Take  a  fine  fat  canvas-back  duck,  pick,  singe,  draw  and  wipe  it  thoroughly.  Split 
it  through  the  back  without  detaching  the  pieces,  lay  on  a  dish  to  season  with  a  pinch 
of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  oil.  Roll  the  duck  well  in 
it  and  broil  for  seven  minutes  on  both  sides.  Dress  it  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  over  one- 
half  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  decorate  with  a  bunch  of  watercress,  and  serve. 

Roasted  Canvas-Back   Ducks. 

Procure  a  fine  fat  canvas-back  duck,  pick,  singe,  draw  thoroughly,  and  wipe  it ; 
throw  inside  a  light  pinch  of  salt,  run  in  the  head  from  the  end  of  the  head  to  the 
back,  truss  it  and  place  in  a  roastingpan.  Sprinkle  on  a  little  salt,  put  it  in  a  brisk 
oven,  and  cook  for  eighteen  minutes ;  arrange  on  a  very  hot  dish,  untruss,  throw  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  broth,  and  serve  with  six  slices  of  fried  hominy  for 
garnish,  and  currant  jelly  on  a  dish. 

Red-head  and  mallard  ducks  are  prepared  in  exactly  the  Same  way  as  canvas-back. 


Ruddy   Ducks,  Broiled. 


Select  a  good,  fat  ruddy  duck  and  prepare  it  by  singeing;  after  picking  it  thor- 
oughly, draw  and  wipe  it  well,  then  split  it  through  the  back,  but  take  care  not  to  de- 
tach the  pieces,  then  put  the  duck  on  a  dish  with  a  little  salt  and  half  the  quantity  of 
pepper,  to  which  should  be  added  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  broil  for  four 
minutes  on  each  side.  When  cooked  dress  the  bird  upon  a  hot  dish  on  a  little  mai- 
tre d'hotel  butter,  decorate  with  watercress,  and  serve. 

338 


GAME.  339 


Ruddy   Ducks,  Roasted. 


Pick,  singe  and  draw,  wiping  well  a  good,  fat  ruddy  duck,  and  dredge  inside  a 
pinch  or  two  of  salt,  then  draw  its  head  through  an  opening  at  the  base  of  the  neck 
and  put  it  in  a  roastingpan,  add  a  little  more  salt  and  set  it  in  a  brisk  oven,  cooking 
for  about  ten  minutes.  When  it  is  done  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  untruss  and  pour  a  little 
good  white  broth  inside  the  bird;  cut  in  slices,  garnish  with  a  little  fried  hominy,  to- 
gether with  some  currant  jelly. 

Broiled  Teal  Ducks. 

Choose  three  fine,  fat  teal;  pick,  singe  and  dry  them;  cut  off  their  heads  and  split 
the  birds  into  halves  without  separating  the  parts.  Place  them  on  a  dish  and  season 
with  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil. 
Roll  them  well  in  it  and  put  them  to  broil  over  a  moderate  fire  for  seven  or  eight 
minutes  on  either  side.  Have  in  readiness  a  hot  dish  with  six  large  slices  of  toasted 
bread;  divide  the  teal  and  lay  one-half  of  them  on  the  top  of  each  Spread  over  one 
gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  garnish  with  a  little  watercress,  and  serve. 


Deviled   Teal   Ducks. 

Cut  into  small  pieces  two  or  three  large  onions,  place  them  in  a  mortar,  add  a 
small  piece  of  green  ginger  and  six  or  eight  green  peppers,  and  pound  them  to  a 
pulp.  Add  two  teaspoonfuls  each  of  chutney  and  mustard,  and  a  small  quantity  each 
of  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt;  put  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan,  and  pour  in  one-half 
pint  of  claret.  Cut  a  teal  in  pieces  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan,  and  let  them  simmer 
gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  meat  is  done;  this  will  take  a  long  time. 
Arrange  the  pieces  of  teal  on  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 


Teal    Ducks,  Gourmet   Style. 

After  the  bird  has  been  plucked,  singed  and  drawn,  split  it  open  down  the  back 
with  a  knife,  but  do  not  divide  it;  pour  boiling  water  over  and  remove  the  pink  sub- 
stance that  will  be  found  to  line  the  back;  season  the  interior  of  the  teal  with  spices, 
and  brown  it  in  a  brisk  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Afterwards  place  the  bird 
on  a  gridiron,  the  inside  next  to  the  fire,  and  broil  it  for  five  minutes.  Make  some 
rich  brown  gravy,  thickening  it  with  baked  flour.  Place  the  bird  on  a  large  slice  of 
toasted  bread,  garnish  it  with  groups  of  vegetables,  slices  of  beet-root  and  quarters 
of  lemons  and  oranges,  and  serve  with  a  red  currant  jelly  on  a  small  glass  dish.  A 
fringe  of  watercress  should  also  be  arranged  round  the  dish. 


340 


GAME. 


Roast  Teal   Ducks. 


Singe,  draw  and  truss  the  required  number  of  birds,  wipe  them  with  a  wet  towel, 
cut  off  the  heads  and  feet.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper  in  each  bird,  and  lay  them  in  a  dripping  pan ;  peel 
an  onion,  put  it  into  the  pan  with  the  teal,  set  the  birds  in  a  -very  hot  oven,  and  bake 
them  for  twenty  minutes,  basting  them  every  five  minutes,  adding  more  butter  if  it  is 
required  for  basting.  Just  before  serving  the  birds,  season  them  with  salt,  and  serve 
with  a  sauce  made  up  as  follows,  while  they  are  being  cooked  :  Peel  and  chop  fine 
a  shallot  or  onion,  put  it  over  the  fire  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  when  the 
butter  begins  to  brown,  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  when  the  flour  is  brown  add 
one-half  pint  each  of  port  wine  and  boiling  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-fourth 
teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Stir  the  sauce  until  it  boils,  then 
keep  it  hot.  When  the  birds  are  done,  pour  the  drippings  from  them  into  the  sauce, 
mix  them  well  with  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Broiled  Wild   Ducks. 

Pick,  singe,  draw  and  wipe  well  a  pair  of  wild  ducks,  split  them  down  the  back 
without  detaching,  place  them  skin  downwards  on  a  dish,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil.  Boil  the  birds  well  in  this  marinade,  place 
them  on  a  broiler  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  broil  for  seven  minutes  on  each  side.  Place 
them  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  garnish  with  watercress,  and 
serve. 

Fillets  of  Wild   Ducks. 

Prepare  and  roast  the  ducks  as  for  fillets  of  wild  ducks  with  game  sauce,  keep- 
ing them  rather  underdone.  When  cooked  remove  the  fillets  from  the  breasts  and 
trim  them  neatly.  Cut  as  many  croutons  of  bread  as  there  are  fillets,  and  fry  them 
in  butter  until  they  are  of  a  golden  brown  color.  Chop  the  livers  of  the  ducks,  sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper  and  finely-minced  parsley,  and  work  in  a  small  quantity  of 
butter.  Spread  the  croutons  with  a  layer  of  the  liver  mixture,  thicker  in  the  middle 
than  at  the  sides;  place  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  and  then  brown  them 
with  a  salamander.  Arrange  the  fillets  and  croutons  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish  alter- 
nately, pour  in  the  center  some  game  sauce  with  a  few  mild  stoned  olives  in  it,  and 
serve. 

Fillets   of  Wild   Ducks  with   Orange  Sauce. 

Fillet  three  wild  ducks,  score  the  skin  and  put  them  in  a  bowl  with  onions  cut 
in  halves,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  some  mushroom  catsup,  and  season  with  salt,  pep- 
percorns, and  cover  with  oil.  When  the  fillets  have  steeped  in  this  marinade  for  an 
hour  take  them  out,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  oil,  and  fry  them  over  a 


GAME.  341 

sharp  fire,  turning  occasionally.     When  done  drain,  arrange  on  a  dish  in  a  circular 
form,  and  serve  with  orange  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Roasted   Wild   Duck. 

Prepare  a  wild  duck,  cut  off  the  head  and  neck,  scald  the  feet,  and  truss  them 
with  the  duck  in  the  same  way  as  a  fowl.  Put  the  duck  close  to  a  sharp  fire  for 
a  few  minutes  to  brown,  then  move  it  a  little  way  back,  and  baste  continually  with 
butter  till  done;  just  before  it  is  taken  up  dredge  with  flour.  In  the  meantime  soak 
the  necks  and  gizzards  in  a  pint  of  water  over  the  fire  till  the  water  is  reduced  to  one- 
half  pint,  or  in  place  of  water  use  one-half  pint  of  veal  gravy;  put  into  this  a  slice  of 
lemon  or  orange,  one  onion,  three  or  four  leaves  of  basil,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  together  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain;  add  a  wineglassful 
of  port  wine,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or  orange.  Dish  the  ducks  when  done,  pour 
the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve. 

Salmis  of  Wild   Duck. 

Cut  off  all  the  flesh  from  two  roasted  wild  ducks,  skin  and  trim  them,  and  put 
the  meat  in  a  stewpan,  Put  the  bones,  trimmings  and  skins,  with  four  shallots,  four 
onions  (one  stuck  with  four  cloves),  one  bunch  of  parsley  and  half  a  bottle  of 
claret  in  another  stewpan,  and  boil  till  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  half  its  original  quan- 
tity; then  add  one  and  one-half  pints  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  simmer  for  twenty 
minutes.  Skim,  strain  through  a  conical  strainer  into  another  stewpan  and  boil  till 
the  sauce  coats  the  spoon.  Pour  one-fourth  of  this  over  the  pieces  of  duck,  and  set 
the  pan  over  the  fire  till  they  are  hot  through,  but  do  not  boil  them.  Dish  the  duck, 
pour  over  the  remainder  of  the  sauce,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Bouchees   of  Game. 

Put  two  and  a  half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  game  sauce  into  a  stewpan  with  the  flesh 
of  any  cold  cooked  game  cut  up  small;  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot,  season  with  salt 
and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar,  then  move  the  pan  to  the  side.  Roll  out  one  pound  of 
puff  paste  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  cut  out  some  rounds  with  a  fluted  tin 
cutter  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  sprinkle  water  over  a  baking  sheet,  lay 
the  rounds  on  it  and  brush  them  over  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg. 
With  a  plain  tin  cutter,  a  size  smaller  than  the  one  previously  used,  mark  a  ring  on 
the  top  of  each  piece  of  paste,  dipping  the  cutter  into  hot  water  every  time.  Bake 
the  paste  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  keeping  the  oven  door  closed.  When 
cooked,  take  the  bouchees  out  of  the  oven,  and  lift  off  the  lids  as  carefully  as  possible 
with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  so  as  not  to  break  them;  scrape  out  the  soft  paste,  leaving 
a  hollow,  fill  them  with  the  game,  replace  the  lids,  put  them  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  serve. 


342  GAME. 

Game   Croquettes. 

Take  the  white  flesh  of  any  cold  roasted  game;  melt  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan  and  mix  with  it  one  scant  tablespoonful  of  flour,  then  put  in  the  minced  game 
and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  nutmeg;  stir  over  the 
fire  until  very  hot,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  mix  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  one  or 
two  eggs  and  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish  and 
leave  it  until  nearly  cold.  Divide  and  mould  the  mixture  into  small  balls,  dip  them 
in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  in  fine  breadcrumbs  sufficient  to  cover.  Put  a  large  piece  of 
butter  or  clarified  fat  into  a  flat  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  fat  boils 
put  in  the  croquettes  and  fry  them  until  nicely  and  equally  browned.  Spread  a 
folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish,  pile  the  croquettes  on  it,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Game   Cutlets. 

Take  any  cold  cooked  game  and  cut  the  flesh  into  dice.  Soak  a  third  of  an 
ounce  of  gelatine  for  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  breakfast  cupful  of  water.  Put  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan;  when  it  is  hot  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  mix  well  until  brown  and  quite  smooth,  add  a  pint  of  rich  stock,  one  egg,  four 
cloves,  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  simmer  for  ten  min- 
utes and  pour  it  over  the  game.  Return  all  to  the  pan  and  simmer  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  longer.  Beat  one  egg  in  a  basin,  add  it  to  the  gelatine,  stir  it  into  the  mix- 
ture and  remove  from  the  fire  at  once.  Put  the  pan  into  a  larger  one  with  cold 
water  so  that  it  will  cool,  stirring  well.  When  cold,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  shallow 
bakingdish  smoothing  it  to  about  an  inch  in  thickness  and  set  it  on  the  ice  to  get 
hard;  cut  it  into  cutlet  shapes  with  a  knife  that  has  been  dipped  in  water,  then  place 
the  dish  in  another  one  of  warm  water  to  loosen  the  cutlets  from  the  bottom.  Pre- 
pare one  quart  of  game  forcemeat,  cover  the  cutlets  over  with  it  and  return  them  to 
the  ice  again.  Beat  two  eggs  in  a  basin,  remove  the  cutlets  from  the  ice  and  cover 
them  over  with  the  eggs  and  afterwards  with  breadcrumbs;  put  two  or  three  at  a  time 
into  a  frying  basket,  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat  and  fry  for  two  minutes;  take  them 
out,  drain  and  put  them  on  brown  paper  until  drained.  Stick  a  bone  in  the  end  of 
each,  garnish  it  with  a  paperfrill,  arrange  the  cutlets  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  parsley. 

Deviled   Game. 

Clean  and  prepare  any  game  in  season  and  half  roast  it.  Mix  equal  quantities  of 
salt,  cayenne  and  curry  powder  and  then  add  double  this  quantity  of  powdered  dried 
truffles.  Put  the  entrails  and  brains  of  the  bird  in  a  mortar,  crush  them  well  and  add 
the  yolk  of  a  hard  boiled  egg,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  dessertspoonful  of  chutney, 
a  little  soy,  a  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  and  the 
juice  of  half  an  orange  or  lemon.  Dust  the  bird  over  with  the  powder,  put  it  in  a 


GAME.  343 

dish  with  the  brain  mixture,  place  the  dish  over  a  spirit  lamp  in  a  chafingdish,  cover 
tightly  and  cook  until  the  flesh  is  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  mixture.  Now 
add  a  little  salad  oil;  let  it  get  hot,  turn  out  on  a  dish,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Fillets  of  Game   in   Cases. 

Make  some  cases  of  white  paper,  butter  them  and  put  a  piece  of  bacon  fat  in 
each.  Cut  any  cold  roasted  game  into  slices,  put  them  in  the  cases,  place  a  little 
bacon  fat  over  each,  strew  grated  breadcrumbs  on  the  top  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven 
until  browned.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish 
and  arrange  the  cases  on  it,  garnishing  here  and  there  with  fried  parsley. 

Game   Pie. 

Rub  four  ounces  of  butter  into  twelve  ounces  of  flour  and  make  it  into  a  paste 
by  adding  one  egg,  half  of  which  may  be  beaten  up  with  water  sufficient  to  make  the 
paste  firm  and  consistent.  Knead  it  thoroughly  and  cut  off  a  piece  about  the  size  of 
a  large  apple  to  form  the  lid  of  the  pie.  Butter  a  raised  pie  mould,  line  it  with  the 
paste,  pressing  it  into  shape  and  cut  it  round  at  the  top,  leaving  about  half  an  inch 
above  the  mould.  Clean  and  wash  any  game,  such  as  grouse,  partridge,  pheasant  or 
hare,  cut  them  up,  and  take  out  all  the  bones ;  chop  up  the  hearts  and  livers,  mix  in 
one  pound  of  sausage-meat  and  two  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  blend  together,  working 
with  the  hand  and  adding  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  put  a 
layer  of  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  then  half  of  a  bird  and  sprinkle  it  over  with  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg; 
cover  with  another  layer  of  the  sausage-meat,  together  with  a  few  halves  of  truffles 
and  square  pieces  of  cooked  beef  tongue,  then  another  half  bird  and  continue  in 
this  order  until  the  mould  is  quite  full.  Damp  the  edges  of  the  crust  with  a  wet 
paste  brush,  cover  it  with  the  paste  lid,  press  the  edges  together  to  anneal  them, 
trim  round  the  edge,  decorate  the  top  with  paste  leaves  or  flowers,  brush  over  with 
egg,  make  a  hole  in  the  center  and  put  the  pie  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  an  hour 
and  a  half.  Put  the  bones  in  a  small  saucepan  with  a  little  water  or  broth,  and  boil 
for  an  hour  and  a  half;  that  is,  while  the  pie  is  baking ;  strain  this  gravy  and  pour  it 
into  the  pie,  when  it  is  done,  through  a  funnel  inserted  into  the  hole;  remove  the  mould 
shape,  and  when  the  pie  is  cold,  take  off  the  lid,  fill  it  up  with  chopped  aspic  jelly, 
put  it  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  more  of  the  jelly,  and  serve. 

Salmis  of  Game. 

Cut  the  meat  from  some  cold-roasted  game  into  small  pieces;  break  the  bones 
and  put  them  with  the  trimmings  in  a  stewpan,  add  one  pinch  of  sweet  herbs,  two 
cloves,  two  peppercorns  and  some  cold  water;  set  it  on  the  fire  and  boil.  Fry  two 
small-sliced  onions  in  butter  until  brown;  sift  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir 


344  GAME. 

until  cooked.  Strain  the  liquor  in  which  the  bones  were  boiled,  mix  with  it  the  flour 
and  onions,  put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  one  tablespoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  the  pieces  of  meat.  Simmer  for  fifteen  minutes  and 
add  a  few  button  mushrooms.  Fry  some  slices  of  bread  without  crusts  in  butter,  put 
them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  the  salmis,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Game   Souffles. 

Cut  off  about  two  pounds  of  flesh  from  any  cold  roasted  game,  trim  off  the  skin, 
chop  the  flesh,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Mix  three- 
quarters  of  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  with  one  teacupful  of  essence  of  fowls  and  boil  un- 
til it  is  reduced  to  one-third.  Mix  the  pounded  game  into  the  sauce  and  leave  it  until 
cold.  Beat  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  and  mix  them  with  the  puree;  whip  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  them  to  the  mixture  and  season  with  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg and  salt  and  pepper.  Fill  some  small  paper  cases  with  the  mixture,  put  them 
into  a  quick  oven  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes.  Place  the  cases  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
garnished  with  fried  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Vbl-au-Vent   of  Cold   Game. 

Cut  the  meat  from  any  cold  cooked  game  into  pieces  and  mix  with  it  an  equal 
quantity  of  cold  ham  or  beef  tongue,  also  cut  into  small  pieces.  Break  up  the  bones 
of  the  bird  and  put  them  with  the  trimmings  into  a  saucepan;  add  a  blade  of  mace, 
two  or  three  allspice,  a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  about  two-thirds  of  a 
breakfast  cupful  of  white  stock,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Rub  the  skin  off  a 
few  small  button  mushrooms  with  apiece  of  flannel  dipped  in  salt,  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  strain  the  gravy  from  the  bones  over  them,  and  stew  gently.  When  they  are 
nearly  cooked  put  in  the  meat  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  truffles,  one 
teacupful  of  thick  cream  and  one  ounce  of  butter  worked  into  a  tablespoonful  of  flour. 
Stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  boiled  and  quite  thick.  Prepare  a  vol-au-vent  case 
by  rolling  out  some  paste  one  inch  thick  laid  on  a  greased  baking  sheet,  and  cutting 
a  round  as  large  as  a  dinner  plate;  mark  out  with  the  point  of  a  knife  an  inner  circle 
about  one  inch  from  the  edge  and  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  bake  it, 
and  after  removing  the  thin  inner  circle  pile  up  the  center  with  the  game  preparation. 
Cut  up  the  thin  slab  from  the  center  into  shapes  and  lay  over  the  game  mixture,  pre- 
viously brushing  with  white  of  egg  each  place  where  the  ornament  is  to  be  laid.  Pass 
the  salamander  over  the  top,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Baked  Wild   Goose  with   Mushroom   or   Celery   Sauce. 

Pluck,  draw  and  singe  a  wild  goose  and  steep  it  in  salted  water  for  several  hours. 
Cut  an  onion  into  slices,  put  it  in  the  inside,  sew  it  up  and  plunge  it  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water  for  twenty  minutes.  Take  it  out,  remove  the  onion  and  stuff  the  bird 


GAME. 


345 


with  a  little  celery  and  mashed  potatoes,  a  few  hard  boiled  eggs  and  a  little  fat  pork 
or  any  other  cold  meat,  all  very  finely  chopped;  also  a  grated  turnip,  a  little  chopped 
onion,  a  tablespoonful  of  pepper,  vinegar,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Sew  it  up, 
truss  it  and  put  it  in  a  bakingdish  with  a  teacupful  of  stock  or  broth,  brush  over  with 
warmed  butter,  dust  with  flour,  put  a  piece  of  well-buttered  paper  over  the  breast,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  till  done.  Place  it  on  a  dish  and  pour  over  it  either  its  own 
gravy  or  a  little  mushroom  or  celery  sauce.  Garnish  the  dish  with  sprays  of  water- 
cress, and  serve. 

Broiled  Grouse. 

Singe,  draw  and  wipe  three  or  four  grouse,  split  them  in  halves  through  the  backs 
without  separating  the  parts,  lay  them  in  a  dish  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil.  Roll  them  well  in  it,  then  put  them  over  a  brisk  fire  and 
broil  for  seven  minutes  on  each  side.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  finely- 
chopped  shallot  in  a  small  saucepan  on  a  hot  range,  cook  for  one  minute,  add  two 
chopped  mushrooms,  moisten  with  one  tablespoonful  of  rich  sauce,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  stir  all  well  together,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and 
cook  for  one  minute  longer.  Pour  the  sauce  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  grouse  over, 
decorate  the  dish  with  slices  of  broiled  bacon,  lemon  and  truffles,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Fried   Grouse   Cutlets. 

Prepare  three  young  grouse  and  cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise,  split  the  drum- 
stick and  push  it  inside  the  hip;  beat  each  half  slightly,  skin,  roll  in  clarified 
butter  and  breadcrumbs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  for  twelve  or  four- 
teen minutes  over  a  moderate  fire,  turning  them  so  as  to  cook  both  sides.  Make 
a  sauce  as  follows:  Put  a  small  bunch  of  herbs  in  a  saucepan  with  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  shallots;  boil  for  two  minutes 
with  the  cover  on  the  pan,  add  one  teacupful  of  raw  mushrooms  cut  into  small 
squares,  simmer  until  the  liquor  is  reduced,  then  pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
melted  meat-glaze.  When  boiling  move  the  stewpan  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  five 
ounces  of  butter;  when  this  is  melted,  without  boiling,  and  the  sauce  well  thick- 
ened, add  a  little  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  gherkins  cut  into  small  squares,  one 
tablespoonful  of  soy  and  one  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  leaves  chopped  small.  Dish 
the  cutlets,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

Larded   Grouse 

Clean  and  thoroughly  wash  a  grouse,  and  lard  the  legs  and  breast,  placing  a 
skewer  through  the  legs  and  tail;  rub  some  warmed  butter  over  the  breast,  then 
dredge  it  over  with  a  little  salt  and  plenty  of  flour.  Place  it  on  a  bakingdish  and 
set  it  in  a  brisk  oven,  and  cook  for  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  Cover  a  hot  dish 


346  GAME. 

with  bread  sauce,  put  the  grouse  on  it,  and  sprinkle  over  some  fried  breadcrumbs. 
Garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Grouse   Pie. 

Singe  and  draw  three  young  grouse,  and  remove  their  feet,  necks  and  pinions; 
divide  their  bodies  each  into  three  pieces,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  pinions 
and  some  chopped  bacon;  fry  and  put  in  six  ounces  of  chopped  ham  (raw),  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  and  parsley  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  ham  is  cooked 
add  about  eighteen  mushrooms  cut  in  halves,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
onion;  pour  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  wine  and  reduce  the  liquor.  Take  the 
stewpan  off  the  fire  and  let  the  contents  cool.  Arrange  the  meat  in  a  piedish,  with 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  quarters  amongst  it,  pour  over  the  gravy  through  a  conical- 
shaped  strainer,  and  cover  with  puff  paste  ;  brush  the  crust  over  with  whites  of 
eggs,  and  place  in  a  hot  oven  until  done.  Take  the  pie  out  of  the  oven,  lift  the 
crust,  pour  in  a  little  more  thickened  game  gravy,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Roasted   Grouse. 

Pluck  and  singe  a  grouse,  draw  it  and  allow  it  to  hang  in  a  cool  place  for 
several  days.  Wipe  it  well  inside  without  washing,  chop  off  its  head  and  truss  it; 
place  a  large  lump  of  butter  inside;  put  it  on  a  spit  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  and  roast 
for  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  basting  frequently  with  butter.  Put  the  liver  of  the 
grouse  into  a  saucepan  of  water  with  a  small  lump  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  boil  it  until  it  is  like  a  paste,  take  it  out,  spread  it  over  pieces  of  toast  on  a 
dish,  place  the  grouse  on  the  top,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  each  of  rich  gravy 
and  bread  sauce. 

Salmis   of  Grouse. 

Singe,  draw,  wipe  and  truss  two  grouse,  season  with  salt,  put  a  few  small  pieces 
of  butter  over  them,  place  them  in  a  roastingpan  in  a  brisk  oven,  and  cook  for  eight 
or  ten  minutes.  Untruss  and  cut  away  the  wings,  legs  and  breasts.  Place  one  ounce 
of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  about  one-half  a  carrot  cut  into  small  pieces,  half  an 
onion  cut  the  same,  two  bay  leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  six  whole  peppers,  and 
fry  to  a  golden  color,  which  will  take  about  five  or  six  minutes.  Hash  the  bodies  of 
the  two  grouse  and  add  them  to  the  other  ingredients.  Moisten  with  one  pint  of 
Spanish  sauce,  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  mushroom  liquor,  one-half  wineglassful  of 
sherry,  and  the  zest  of  a  lemon,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  cook  for 
twenty  minutes.  Then  put  the  wings,  legs  and  breasts  into  a  separate  saucepan  and 
strain  the  sauce  over,  adding  two  minced  truffles  and  six  minced  mushrooms.  Cook 
for  three  minutes  longer,  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread  for  a  garnish. 


GAME.  347 

Stewed   Grouse. 

Take  a  brace  of  grouse  and  truss  and  stuff  them.  Place  one-fourth  pound  of 
butter  or  good  dripping  into  a  fryingpan  and  fry  in  it  while  it  is  quite  hot,  first  one 
grouse  and  then  the  other,  turning  them  so  as  to  brown  them  all  over.  In  the  mean- 
time have  one-half  pint  of  good  gravy  heating  in  a  small  saucepan.  When  both  birds 
are  browned  put  them  in  a  large  saucepan,  pour  the  hot  gravy  over,  place  the  lid  on 
tight  and  let  them  stew  very  gently  for  an  hour  until  they  are  tender;  then  put  them 
on  a  hot  dish  and  cover,  to  keep  the  heat  and  flavor  in.  Let  the  gravy  cool  a  little, 
skim  off  the  fat  that  rises  and  strain  it.  Put  it  over  the  fire  again,  stir  in  enough 
brown  flour  to  thicken,  and  boil  hard  for  five  minutes;  skim  again,  place  the  birds 
back  in  the  gravy  and  let  them  get  quite  hot,  but  do  not  let  the  gravy  boil  after  they 
are  put  in.  Place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  of  the  gravy  over,  and  serve  the 
balance  in  a  small  tureen.  Green  peas  and  currant  jelly  may  also  be  served  separate. 

Supreme    of  Grouse,    Richelieu  Style. 

Singe,  draw  and  wipe  three  grouse,  removing  the  skin  from  the  breasts.  With  a 
sharp  knife  make  an  incision  on  the  top  of  each  breastbone  from  end  to  end.  Care- 
fully cut  off  the  entire  breasts  on  both  sides,  including  the  small  wing  bone,  taking 
care  not  to  leave  a  particle  of  meat  on  the  bones.  Remove  the  small  fillets  found 
under  the  breasts,  putting  them  one  side  for  further  use.  Make  an  incision  in  the 
breasts  at  the  thinnest  side,  about  three  inches  long,  and  one  inch  in  depth,  season 
them  inwardly  with  pepper  and  salt,  stuff  them  with  chicken  forcemeat  mixed  with 
two  truffles  and  four  mushrooms,  all  finely  sliced,  and  put  them  into  a  buttered  saute- 
pan.  Gently  press  the  small  fillets,  using  the  fingers  to  give  them  a  hollow  shape. 
Make  six  slanting,  small  incisions  on  the  top  of  each,  and  insert  in  them  a  small  piece 
of  smoked  beef,  one-half  inch  in  diameter;  moisten  slightly  the  top  of  the  breasts 
with  water,  place  a  fillet  lengthwise  on  them,  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  clarified  but- 
ter, using  a  feather  brush.  Pour  into  the  pan,  but  not  over  the  meat,  one-fourth 
wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup,  lightly 
cover  the  pan  and  place  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Arrange  the  supremes  on 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  little  Perigueux  sauce  boiled  for  three  minutes  with  one 
teacupful  of  tomato  sauce,  in  a  sauceboat 

Broiled   Guinea   Fowls. 

Pluck,  singe  and  draw  two  or  three  Guinea  fowls,  wash  them  thoroughly,  and 
split  down  the  backs;  wipe  dry  and  flatten  them  slightly.  Dust,  salt  and  pepper  over 
both  sides,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire.  Brush 
over  frequently  with  a  little  butter,  and  when  they  have  been  cooking  for  about  fifteen 
minutes,  put  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  a  rich  gravy,  and  garnish  with  mashed  potatoes. 


348  GAME. 

Roasted  Larded   Guinea  Fowl. 

Plunge,  singe  and  draw  a  Guinea  fowl,  lard  the  breasts  with  strips  of  fat  bacon, 
and  truss  it  like  a  pheasant.  Put  it  on  a  spit  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  and  roast  for  an 
hour,  basting  frequently  with  butter.  Sprinkle  it  well  with  flour,  cook  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  longer,  place  it  on  a  dish,  pour  round  a  little  rich  gravy,  and  serve 
with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  gravy. 

Hares. 

Before  cooking  a  hare  it  must  be  skinned,  and  if  intended  for  roasting  it  must  be 
trussed,  so  as  to  give  it  a  good  effect.  This  is  done  in  the  following  manner: 

Chop  off  the  feet  of  the  first  joints,  lift  the  skin  from  the  back,  and  draw  it  first 
over  the  hind  legs  and  then  over  the  fore  legs;  let  the  tail  remain  on  with  the  hair; 
cut  the  skin  from  the  head  and  ears,  leaving  the  latter  on,  cut  through  the  sinews  of 
the  legs,  and  bring  the  hind  legs  forward,  passing  a  skewer  through  both  of  them  as 
well  as  the  body,  and  bring  the  fore  legs  back,  passing  a  skewer  through  them  also. 
Fix  the  head  upright  by  means  of  a  skewer  thrust  through  the  mouth  to  the  back  of 
the  head  and  then  into  the  back  between  the  shoulders.  Wipe  the  inside  very  dry, 
stuff,  and  sew  it  up.  Pass  a  string  round  the  ends  of  the  skewers  which  fix  the  legs, 
drawing  it  over  the  back  of  the  hare  so  as  to  keep  the  legs  close  up  to  the  body. 

A  very  popular  mode  of  preparing  hares  for  cooking  is  to  remove  the  bones,  and 
re-form  the  body  in  such  a  way  that  it  may  be  carved  without  difficulty.  The  method 
of  procedure  for  this  boning  is  as  follows: 

The  hare  should  be  fresh.  Skin  and  clean  it  as  directed,  and  then  with  a  sharp 
knife  begin  cutting  down  along  the  crest  of  the  backbone,  and  dissect  the  flesh  from 
the  ribs.  Do  not  disconnect  the  flesh,  but  leave  it  hanging.  Separate  the  backbone 
from  the  head  at  the  first  joint  of  the  neckbone,  leaving  the  head  on,  then  pass  the 
knife  carefully  under  the  flesh  down  the  middle  of  the  back  until  the  whole  of  the 
bone  is  clear.  The  legs  may  be  either  cut  off  or  dissected  out.  The  hollow  from 
which  the  spine  and  ribs  have  been  taken  should  next  be  stuffed  with  forcemeat  or 
well-seasoned  bread  stuffing,  the  belly  sewn  together,  and  the  hare  fastened  with 
string  and  skewers,  in  order  to  bring  it  into  as  nearly  its  original  shape  as  possible. 


Hares  Backs  with    Poivrade  Sauce. 

Remove  the  backs  of  a  couple  of  hares,  lard  them  with  strips  of  firm  bacon  fat, 
wrap  them  round  with  buttered  or  oiled  paper,  place  them  on  the  spit  in  front  of  a 
clear  fire,  and  roast  until  done.  About  five  minutes  before  taking  them  from  the  fire, 
remove  the  paper  so  as  to  glaze  them  with  thin  liquor,  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
poivrade  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 


GAME. 


Baked  Hare. 


349 


Select  two  nice  hares,  cut  them  into  halves,  separating  the  fore  from  the  hind 
quarters.  Bone  the  saddles  down  to  the  legs,  but  do  not  bone  the  legs;  put  them  in  a 
deep  earthenware  dish,  pour  in  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  add  one  fair-sized 
sliced  lemon,  one  sliced  and  peeled  onion  and  one  sprig  of  thyme,  seasoning  with 
pepper,  salt  and  two  or  three  cloves.  Roll  the  saddles  well  in  the  seasoning  several 
times  and  place  one  side  to  steep  for  twelve  or  fourteen  hours.  Take  out  the  pieces, 
stuff  the  bone  saddles  with  a  rich  stuffing,  give  them  a  round  shape  and  tie  them  so 
as  to  hold  them  firmly.  Place  a  piece  of  fat  pork  over  each  saddle,  put  them  in  a 
roastingpan  with  one  carrot  and  one  onion  cut  into  slices  and  placed  at  the  bottom 
of  the  pan,  and  pour  over  one  pint  of  broth.  Put  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  for 
forty-five  to  fifty  minutes,  taking  care  to  baste  frequently  with  the  gravy  that  comes 
from  them.  Take  them  from  the  oven,  untie,  dress  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  gravy 
over  the  saddles,  decorate  the  dish  with  heart-shaped  croutons,  and  serve.  The  fore 
quarters  can  be  used  for  civets  or  other  dishes. 

Broiled    Hare. 

Rub  the  legs  and  shoulders  of  a  hare  with  butter,  lay  them  in  a  deep  earthen- 
ware dish  with  one  large  sliced  onion,  a  small  quantity  of  thyme  and  parsley,  a  bay- 
leaf,  a  moderate  quantity  of  pepper  and  salt,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  vinegar,  and  half 
as  much  water.  Cover  the  hare  with  another  dish  and  let  it  macerate  for  two  days. 
Drain  the  pieces  of  hare,  rub  again  with  butter,  lay  them  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over 
a  clear  fire,  turning  when  done  on  one  side.  When  cooked  lay  the  pieces  on  a  hot 
dish  covered  with  a  folded  napkin  and  garnished  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Civet  of  Hare. 

Skin  and  clean  a  hare,  using  care  to  save  all  the  blood;  chop  off  the  hind  legs, 
and  cut  them  up  into  two  or  three  pieces;  also  divide  the  body  into  equal  parts.  Cut 
one-half  pound  of  bacon  into  small  pieces  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  and  blanch  in 
boiling  water.  Remove,  drain  and  fry  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter  until  quite 
brown;  take  them  from  the  pan,  throw  in  the  pieces  of  hare  and  cook  until  they  are 
quite  firm.  Lift  them  out,  and  mix  in  a  little  flour  to  thicken  the  gravy;  then  add 
one  quart  of  broth,  and  one  pint  of  red  wine.  Put  the  pieces  of  hare  back  again,  also 
the  bacon,  and  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  few  spices,  onions,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  a  little  trimmings  of  mushrooms.  Put  the  pan  on  the  fire  again  and  boil  for  an 
hour.  Skim  off  the  fat  and  place  the  pieces  of  hare  and  bacon  (one  at  a  time)  in  a 
clean  saucepan.  Skim  the  sauce  again,  put  it  on  the  fire  and  reduce  until  it  is  quite 
thick  and  will  stick  to  the  hare  after  having  been  passed  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  a 
few  onions  fried  in  butter  to  a  light  brown  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  broth,  and  stew 


350  GAME. 

them;  add  a  few  mushrooms  also  fried  in  butter,  and  the  blood  and  liver  to  thicken. 
Warm  up  and  let  it  remain  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  taking  care  not  to  boil  it,  or  the 
blood  will  be  likely  to  curdle,  when  the  sauce  would  not  be  dark  enough  in  color. 
Place  the  pieces  of  meat  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  onion  broth  poured  over  the  hare. 

Civet  of  Hare,  Bourgeoise. 

Clean  a  hare  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  saving  the  blood.  Put  two  ounces  of 
butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire 
until  well  mixed;  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  hare,  with  a  few  slices  of  fat  bacon,  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  some  mushrooms  and  artichoke  bottoms,  a  few  small  onions  fried  in 
butter  and  pepper  and  salt,  moistening  with  one-half  pint  of  white  wine  and  enough 
stock  to  cover.  Stew  the  hare  until  tender,  and  then  put  the  pieces  on  a  dish.  Skim 
the  sauce,  remove  the  bunch  of  herbs,  add  the  crushed  liver  of  the  hare,  also  the  blood, 
and  boil  again.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  hare,  and  serve. 

Civet   of   Hare,    French   Style. 

Skin  a  good-sized  hare,  draw  it,  and  preserve  the  blood  should  there  be  any,  and 
also  the  liver,  with  the  gall  carefully  removed.  Place  the  blood  and  the  liver  on  the 
same  dish,  and  cut  the  hare  into  a  dozen  pieces;  put  these  into  a  stone  jar,  seasoning 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  adding  also  one  sliced  onion,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  two 
bay  leaves  and  half  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine;  stir  all  together  well,  and  steep  for 
six  hours.  Remove  the  pieces  of  hare,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of 
butter,  adding  twelve  glazed  small  onions,  and  one  ounce  of  salted  pork  cut  into  small 
pieces,  and  cook  on  a  sharp  fire  for  ten  minutes;  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour;  stir  thoroughly  and  moisten  with  one  wineglassful  of  red  wine  and  one  pint  of 
white  broth,  and  stir  until  it  boils,  seasoning  again  with  pepper  and  salt.  Cook  for 
one  hour  longer,  and  fifteen  minutes  before  it  is  done  put  in  the  blood,  also  the  heart 
and  liver,  both  finely  chopped  and  mixed  together.  Serve  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread  for  a  garnish. 

Fried  Fillets  of  Hare  with  Quenelles. 

Take  two  fillets  of  hare,  trim,  cut  them  slantwise  across  into  five  pieces  each, 
moisten  and  beat  a  little,  then  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  a  little 
melted  butter  into  a  flat  stewpan,  and  put  in  the  fillets,  arranging  them  side  by  side. 
Prepare  a  little  game  gravy  with  the  bones  and  remaining  parts  of  the  hare,  adding  a 
small  quantity  of  thickened  brown  sauce.  Prepare  a  forcemeat  with  the  trimmings 
of  the  fillets,  shape  them  into  quenelles  with  a  small  spoon,  and  poach  them  in 
salted  water.  Place  the  pan  with  the  fillets  on  the  fire  and  fry  briskly,  turning 
them  in  order  to  cook  both  sides.  Take  out  and  drain  ;  pour  on  four  tablespoon- 


GAME.  351 

fuls  of  sauce,  put  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  over.      Place 
the  quenelles  around  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Larded  Fillets  of  Hare,  Minute  Style. 

Skin  and  clean  a  hare,  cut  off  the  fillets,  lard  and  put  them  into  a  basin,  season 
with  ground  mixed  spice,  pour  over  enough  oil  to  moisten,  and  let  them  soak  for  one 
hour.  In  the  meantime  pour  some  stock  in  a  saucepan,  and  reduce  it  nearly  to  a 
glaze;  then  add  a  slice  of  fat  bacon  and  the  larded  fillets,  cover  with  a  piece  of  but- 
tered paper,  and  simmer  for  twelve  minutes,  by  which  time  the  fillets  should  be  well 
cooked  and  browned.  Great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  let  the  fillets  burn.  Put 
them  onto  a  dish,  add  a  little  rich  stock  to  the  glaze,  stir  well,  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Hare  with  Poivrade  Sauce. 

Clean  two  hares,  cut  off  the  fillets,  remove  the  skin,  and  lard  them  well, 
using  a  small  needle.  Place  them  in  a  deep  dish,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
adding  one  onion  and  one  carrot  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  half  a  dozen  tablespoonfuls 
of  white  wine.  Let  all  soak  together  for  two  hours,  then  transfer  all  to  a  baking- 
pan,  with  some  scraps  of  pork  rind  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  put  this  in 
the  oven  to  cook.  Place  the  fillets  on  a  dish,  pour  in  the  pan  one  gill  of  hot  broth, 
allow  it  to  come  to  the  boil,  strain  it  over  the  fillets  and  serve  with  poivrade  sauce 
separately. 

Gibelotte  of   Hare. 

Proceed  the  same  way  as  for  civet  of  hare,  French  style,  replacing  the  red  wine 
with  one  pint  of  white  broth,  and  adding  twelve  whole  mushrooms  five  minutes  before 
serving. 

Hare    Pie. 

Skin  a  hare  and  cut  into  joints,  putting  the  blood  into  a  basin,  or,  if  more  conven- 
ient, cut  into  half-joints.  Chop  fine  one  pound  of  veal  and  mix  it  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  sausage  meat;  chop  two  shallots,  mix  them  with  some  finely-minced  pars- 
ley or  thyme,  and  dust  over  with  salt  and  pepper;  chop  also  some  veal  bones  into  very 
small  pieces.  Put  a  layer  of  the  hare  meat  at  the  bottom  of  the  pie-dish,  then  a  layer 
of  the  sausage  and  veal  mince,  sprinkle  over  with  the  parsley  and  shallot,  and  cover 
the  whole  with  some  bacon.  When  the  dish  is  nearly  full  add  the  blood  and  a  half-pint 
of  Madeira,  put  three  bay  leaves  on  the  top,  cover  over  with  the  lid,  seal  it  hermeti- 
cally with  paste  made  of  flour  and  water  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  ten  hours.  It  is 
usually  put  in  a  baker's  oven  and  left  there  for  the  night.  The  veal  bones  should  be 
added  to  the  meat  and  put  about  it  indiscriminately. 


352 


GAME. 


Roasted   Hare  with  Cream   Sauce. 


Prepare  a  hare  and  if  it  is  an  old  one  lard  it  with  fine  strips  of  bacon.  Boil  the 
liver,  chop  it  and  mix  half  of  it  with  enough  chopped  beef-suet,  herbs,  salt,  pepper 
and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  and  bind  the  whole  together  with  beaten  egg.  Stuff  the 
hare  with  the  mixture,  sew  it  up  and  fix  it  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  putting  it  some  dis- 
tance off  at  first  and  afterwards  bringing  it  closer.  Baste  with  three  pints  of  milk 
until  half  cooked  and  then  finish  with  butter.  Prepare  the  following  sauce  for  it : 
Pour  the  milk  with  which  the  hare  was  first  basted  into  a  saucepan,  put  in  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  let  it  stew  within  twenty  minutes  of  the  hare  being  cooked,  and  then 
strain  it. 

Salmis  of  Hare. 

Clean  and  skin  a  hare,  split  it  down  the  back  and  cut  off  all  the  fillets  with  their 
bones  attached.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  hare  into  a  saucepan  with  a  rich  sauce  and 
stew  until  the  meat  will  easily  leave  the  bones;  stew  also  the  liver  together  with  a 
little  calf's  liver  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  butter  and  seasoning;  also  pound 
the  stewed  flesh  of  the  hare  with  more  seasoning  and  butter,  keeping  them  separate 
from  the  liver.  Put  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  stale  breadcrumbs  into  a  basin,  pour 
over  one  pint  of  boiling  cream,  throw  in  a  raw  onion  and  a  bay  leaf  and  let  it  get 
cold.  Take  out  the  onion  and  bay  leaf  and  work  in  a  large  piece  of  butter,  a  season- 
ing of  white  pepper,  mace  and  salt.  Mix  half  of  this  with  the  liver  and  the  other  half 
with  the  pounded  hare  meat.  Place  these  two  mixtures  in  alternate  layers  in  a  mould 
and  steam  them  for  an  hour.  Arrange  the  cutlets  on  a  dish  with  one-half  pound  of 
melted  butter  poured  over,  allow  them  to  soak,  spread  them  out  to  cool,  fry  in  butter, 
turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  out  onto  a  dish  and  arrange  the  cutlets  round,  lean- 
ing them  against  it.  Then  pour  around  a  good  rich  sauce  made  from  truffles,  red 
wine  and  any  bones  of  hare  not  previously  used,  season  all  to  taste  and  thicken  with 
roux. 

Stewed    Hare. 

Skin  and  wash  a  hare,  draw  off  all  the  blood  and  cut  into  halves  through  the 
middle.  Lard  the  hare  as  thickly  as  possible  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  covered  at 
the  bottom  with  slices  of  bacon.  Place  a  large  bunch  of  parsley  in  a  muslin  bag  with 
a  few  bay  leaves,  a  little  thyme,  a  clove,  sweet  basil,  spices  and  add  with  four  onions, 
two  or  three  carrots,  two  calf's  feet  and  a  few  pieces  of  bacon  cut  from  the  breast; 
dust  over  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  add  one  pint  of  white  wine  and  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  broth.  Place  a  round  of  well-buttered  paper  over  the  hare  to  keep  it  from 
burning  or  becoming  dry,  place  the  lid  on  the  saucepan,  seal  hermetically  by  luting 
the  rim  and  edge  with  flour  and  water  paste,  and  cook  for  three  hours  at  the  side  of 
the  fire  and  very  gently.  Take  off  the  lid,  remove  the  hare,  drain  and  put  it  on  a 


GAME.  353 

dish.  Skim  the  liquor  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve.  Place  a  little  butter  and  flour  in 
a  saucepan  and  when  it  is  of  a  light  color  add  the  liquor  from  the  hare,  boil  it  up, 
serve  with  the  hare,  but  not  poured  over  it. 

Timbales   of  Hare. 

Trim  off  all  the  skin  of  some  cold  cooked  hare,  chop  the  flesh,  place  it  in  a 
mortar  and  pound  till  smooth;  mix  it  with  one-third  of  its  quantity  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs, a  little  finely-chopped  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Whisk  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  in  with  the  mixture  and  add  a  few  drops 
of  clear  gravy  to  bring  all  to  a  proper  consistence.  Butter  some  small  timbale 
moulds,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to 
three-fourths  of  their  height,  and  steam  for  about  half  an  hour.  Warm  a  little 
rich  gravy  and  mix  it  with  one  tablespoonful  of  claret.  When  ready  turn  the 
timbales  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  round  the  gravy,  and  serve. 

Ballotines   of  Larks. 

Bone  the  required  quantity  of  larks,  fill  them  with  chicken  forcemeat,  place  a 
truffle  turned  to  a  ball  shape  into  each  bird,  and  fold  them  round  it.  Tie  each  lark 
up  in  a  small  cloth  and  braise  it  in  Madeira  and  mirepoix.  Place  a  bed  of  mashed 
potatoes  on  a  hot  dish,  take  the  cloth  off  the  larks,  arrange  them  over  the  center  of 
the  bed,  reduce  some  Spanish  sauce  with  essence  of  lark,  pour  it  over  the  larks,  and 
serve. 

Broiled   Larks. 

Truss  and  prepare  the  required  quantity  of  larks;  brush  over  with  beaten  eggs, 
sprinkle  with  plenty  of  breadcrumbs,  place  them  on  a  gridiron,  and  broil  over  a  very 
clear  fire.  Lay  some  slices  of  bread  on  a  hot  dish,  dress  the  larks  on  them,  pour  a 
little  rich  brown  gravy  around,  and  serve. 

Larks  in  Cases. 

Pluck,  singe,  draw,  and  bone  the  larks;  stuff  each  bird  with  a  mixture  composed 
of  three  parts  minced  white  flesh  of  cooked  chicken  and  one  part  ham  and  raw  bacon 
seasoned  with  chopped  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  of  pounded  mace. 
Butter  as  many  paper  cases  as  there  are  birds,  spread  a  layer  of  the  same  forcemeat 
in  each,  place  the  birds  in  the  cases,  place  a  slice  of  bacon  over  each,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  it  is  cooked  remove  the  bacon,  pour  a  small  quantity  of  rich 
gravy  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  in  each  case,  stand  them  on  a  hot  dish  over 
which  has  been  placed  a  fancy-edged  dish-paper,  garnish  with  parsley  and  cut  lemons, 
and  serve. 


354 


GAME. 


Lark  Patties. 


Clean  and  bone  the  required  quantity  of  larks,  open  and  season  them  slightly; 
mix  some  forcemeat  with  a  little  chopped  truffles,  place  a  little  in  each  lark  and  roll 
them  up  in  a  round  shape.  Line  some  small  pie-moulds  with  short  paste,  put  a  layer 
of  forcemeat  at  the  bottom  of  each  mould,  then  the  larks,  spread  another  thin  layer 
of  forcemeat  on  the  top,  cover  the  patties  with  short  paste,  pinching  the  edges  to  make 
them  stick,  egg  the  tops,  then  put  a  round  of  puff  paste  on  each.  Egg  the  tops  once 
more  and  place  the  patties  in  a  hot  oven  to  bake  for  twenty  minutes.  When  they  are 
cooked  cut  off  the  covers  and  pour  in  one  tablespoonful  of  Spanish  sauce,  reduced 
with  a  little  essence  of  lark,  place  the  covers  on  again,  and  serve  while  they  are  hot. 

Larks,    Portuguese   Style. 

Singe,  clean,  bone  and  cut  the  wings  and  legs  off  one  dozen  larks,  place  the 
bones  and  trimmings  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  carrot  and  a  small  onion  cut  into 
slices  a  bay  leaf,  a  few  cloves,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  cover  the  bottom  of  the  stew- 
pan  with  some  sherry  wine;  allow  this  to  reduce,  then  moisten  with  good  gravy;  let 
all  simmer  gently  for  an  hour,  then  strain  it.  Prepare  a  chicken  forcemeat  and  place 
it  in  a  biscuit  bag,  also  have  cooked  a  dozen  small  black  truffles,  as  round  as  possible, 
and  no  larger  than  an  olive.  Stuff  the  larks  with  the  forcemeat  and  put  in  the  center  of 
them  a  small  round  truffle,  roll  the  larks  very  neatly  and  wrap  each  in  a  piece  of 
muslin,  and  tie  with  a  string.  Put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  some  bacon  over  the 
bottom,  and  pour  in  a  little  strong  gravy  as  above,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  for 
thirty  minutes.  Meanwhile  prepare  and  cook  one  dozen  mushrooms,  take  half  a  pint 
of  Spanish  sauce  and  place  it  in  a  sautepan  with  the  same  quantity  of  tomato  sauce, 
six  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy  and  a  little  essence  of  lark,  reduced  to  half-glaze.  Shape 
the  mushrooms  with  a  plain  round  cutter,  arrange  them  in  a  sautepan,  unwrap  and 
place  one  on  each  lark,  sticking  them  with  the  remains  of  the  chicken  forcemeat, 
cover  and  place  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Sauce  them,  dress  them  on  a  plain 
border  made  from  chicken  forcemeat  or  mashed  potatoes,  and  pile  in  the  center  some 
rice  cooked  with  white  stock.  Put  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  larks,  and  serve  the 
remainder  in  a  sauceboat. 

Roasted   Larks. 

Clean  and  prepare  the  larks,  tie  them  up  in  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  and  then  in 
vine  leaves,  and  roast  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  basting  frequently  with  butter  and  turning 
the  spit  very  rapidly.  Serve  hot. 

Lark   Scallops  on   a   Croustade. 

Cut  the  fillets  from  about  fifteen  larks;  place  them  in  a  sautepan  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  them.  When  cooked,  drain  and  let  them 


GAME.  355 

cool.  Slice  the  same  quantity  of  truffles  as  there  are  larks.  Reduce  some  partridge 
chaurroid  sauce  with  a  little  essence  of  larks  and  mix  it  with  the  cooked  fillets  of 
larks  and  the  sliced  truffles.  Prepare  a  fried  bread  croustade,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  ar- 
range the  scollops  on  it  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid,  garnish  the  dish  with  croutons  of 
aspic  jelly,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Ortolans  in    Papers. 

Rub  with  melted  butter  or  salad  oil  as  many  sheets  of  paper  as  there  are  birds 
and  cut  them  just  large  enough  to  double  over  the  birds  and  turn  in  all  round  the 
edges  like  a  hem  in  order  to  preserve  the  fat  and  trail  while  the  birds  are  being 
cooked.  Carefully  pluck  and  singe  the  birds,  cut  off  the  beaks  and  claws,  skin  the 
heads  and  necks  and  wipe  them  with  a  clean  cloth;  twist  the  feet,  lay  the  heads  close 
to  the  sides  of  the  birds  and  inclose  in  the  paper.  Place  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a 
very  slow  fire  and  broil  for  about  five  minutes  or  until  they  swim  in  their  own  fat. 
Serve  them  at  once  in  the  papers  on  a  plate  covered  with  watercress.  The  papers 
are  not  to  be  removed  till  just  before  eating  the  birds. 

Fried   Ortolans. 

Draw  and  singe  twenty-four  ortolans,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  some  melted 
bacon  and  two  bay  leaves  sprinkled  over  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  over  a  brisk 
fire,  turning  them  frequently.  Strain  off  the  fat,  add  some  vinegar  and  some  melted 
glaze  and  reduce  the  liquor  quickly  over  a  brisk  fire.  Take  out  the  bay  leaves,  add 
a  salpicon  of  lean  smoked  ham  steeped  in  water  and  a  little  Spanish  sauce  reduced 
with  white  wine  and  warm  the  ham  without  boiling  the  liquor.  Arrange  the  birds  in 
a  pile  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  small 
quenelles. 

Ortolans  in  Cases. 

Pluck,  draw,  and  singe  one  dozen  ortolans,  and  put  them  into  small  cases  masked 
with  Perigueux  sauce,  putting  their  heads  through  a  hole  cut  for  the  purpose.  Place 
them  in  a  quick  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  or  they  may  be  salamandered,  and  when  they 
are  done,  damp  them  with  a  little  more  of  the  perigueux,  and  serve.  Care  must  be 
taken  in  drawing  them  to  take  out  their  gizzards. 

Ortolan  Patties. 

Make  six  patties  of  tart  paste  in  fluted  moulds  made  with  hinges  so  that  they 
will  open  to  let  out  the  patty  crusts  when  done ;  fill  them  with  flour  and  bake.  When 
set  take  them  out  of  the  moulds  and  let  them  get  cold.  Place  at  the  bottom  of  each 
one  tablespoonful  of  royal  salpicon,  and  then  place  in  each  patty  two  well  picked, 
fine,  fat,  raw,  seasoned  ortolans,  covered  with  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  ;  lay  them  on  a 


356  GAME. 

small  baking  pan,  place  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove 
from  the  oven,  take  off  the  lard  from  the  birds,  moisten  each  patty  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  hot  Madeira  sauce,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  folded  napkin  placed 
over  it. 

Ortolans,   Perigordine. 

Prepare  the  birds  as  for  roasting,  cover  them  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  put  them 
in  a  saucepan,  set  in  the  bain-marie,  add  a  little  stock  mixed  with  lemon  juice,  baste 
them  with  this,  and  cook  them.  Scoop  out  the  center  from  as  many  truffles  as  there 
are  birds,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  champagne  to  boil  them  in,  take 
them  out  when  done  and  stuff  with  a  little  game  puree.  Put  them  into  the  saucepan 
with  the  ortolans,  warm  them  all  up  for  a  few  seconds,  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  and 
serve  with  a  little  of  the  sauce  to  moisten  them. 

Ortolans,    Provincial   Style. 

Procure  as  many  large  truffles  as  there  are  birds  to  be  cooked  and  make  some 
French  forcemeat.  Remove  the  feet  and  heads  from  the  birds  and  season  well  with 
salt  and  pepper;  lay  the  birds  on  their  backs  on  the  truffles,  put  them  in  a  deep  stew- ' 
pan  with  two  gills  of  red  wine  and  about  the  same  quantity  of  clear  veal  stock  and 
cover  with  slices  of  bacon;  coyer  and  stew  slowly.  When  they  are  cooked  remove 
the  birds  and  truffles  and  keep  them  hot;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve,  skim 
off  all  the  fat,  pour  it  into  a  small,  clean  stewpan  and  boil  till  reduced  to  half  its 
original  quantity.  Mix  with  the  sauce  one  breakfast  cupful  of  brown  Spanish  sauce 
and  boil  it  again  until  somewhat  reduced.  Put  some  pieces  of  toast  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  put  the  birds  and  truffles  on  them,  and  serve. 

Roasted   Ortolans. 

Pluck  and  singe  one  dozen  ortolans,  make  a  hole  in  the  sides  and  remove  the 
gizzards,  but  do  not  draw  them.  Stuff  the  heads  into  the  holes,  wrap  them  round 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  and  put  them  in  the  oven  to  roast.  Let  them  remain  for 
ten  or  twelve  minutes,  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  arrange  them  on  a  dish  on  croutons  of 
fried  bread,  and  serve.  They  may  be  wrapped  in  vine  leaves  (freshly  gathered)  if 
preferred  instead  of  the  bacon,  which  destroys  the  delicate  flavor  to  a  certain  extent. 
A  rich  sauce  should  be  served  with  them. 

Boiled    Partridges  With   Cream   Sauce. 

Pluck,  singe  and  draw  six  birds  without  breaking '  the  entrails,  wipe  them  with  a 
wet  towel  and  put  them  in  a  pan  with  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover;  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  boil  them  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Meanwhile  put  one-half 
pint  of  thick  cream  into  a  saucepan  set  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  add  to  it  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  one-fourth  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  stir  one  way  till 


GAME.  357 

the  butter  is  melted,  then  leave  the  sauce  where  it  will  keep  hot.  When  the  par- 
tridges are  done  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  dry  them  with  a  soft  cloth,  pour  the  cream 
sauce  over,  and  serve  them  hot,  garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Braised  Partridges. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  three  partridges  as  for  boiling,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  slice  of  chopped  fat  bacon,  and  a  bunch  or  faggot  of  sweet  herbs  and  fry  them  till 
nicely  colored  all  over;  then  pour  in  a  little  wine,  put  the  lid  on  the  stewpan  with  a 
few  hot  ashes  on  it,  and  let  them  braise  gently.  When  nearly  done  put  in  with  the 
partridges  one-half  pound  of  ham,  cut  in  dice,  and  four  large  cloves  of  garlic  that  have 
been  boiled  in  plenty  of  water;  sprinkle  a  little  Spanish  red  pepper  over,  and  continue 
cooking  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  When  done  take  the  partridges  out,  drain,  remove 
the  strings,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  around  with  the  garlic  and  ham; 
take  the  sweet  herbs  out  of  the  cooking  stock,  skim  the  fat  off,  thicken  it  with  a  little 
brown  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  partridges,  and  serve. 

Braised    Partridges   and    Cabbage. 

Truss  a  couple  of  old  partridges  as  for  boiled  chickens.  Put  them  in  a  sautepan 
and  brown  them  slightly  over  a  brisk  fire.  Cut  some. bacon  and  two  onions  into  dice, 
put  them  in  a  braising  pan  with  the  partridges,  surround  them  with  stock  and  braise 
till  three  parts  done.  Wash  thoroughly  a  young  cabbage,  then  blanch,  drain,  and 
dry  it;  put  it  in  with  the  partridges,  and  finish  cooking  them  together.  When  cooked 
make  a  bed  of  the  cabbage  on  a  hot  dish  and  put  the  patridges  on  it  with  the  pieces 
of  bacon  around.  Strain  the  cooking  liquor  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  boil  it  until 
reduced,  keeping  the  partridges  hot  at  the  same  time.  When  ready  pour  the  sauce 
round,  and  serve. 

Braised   Partridges,    Financiere. 

Singe,  draw,  wipe  and  truss  two  partridges  with  their  wings  inside.  Lay  a  piece 
of  pork  rind  in  a  saucepan,  adding  one  carrot  and  one  onion,  both  cut  in  slices,  two 
bay  leaves,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  and  the  two  partridges,  seasoning  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper.  When  the  birds  have  assumed  a  good  golden  color  on  the  hot  stove,  moisten 
with  one-half  pint  of  broth;  put  the  saucepan  in  the  oven  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes 
longer.  Dress  them  on  a  dish,  untruss,  pour  over  one-half  pint  of  hot  financiere 
sauce,  and  serve.  The  gravy  from  the  partridges  can  be  utilized  for  making  the 
financiere  sauce. 

Braised   Partridges,    Perigueux. 

Clean  three  partridges  and  truss  them  as  for  boiling.  Fasten  some  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon  round  them,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  mirepoix 
and  one-fourth  pint  of  essence  of  truffles,  put  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  them, 


358  GAME. 

stand  the  stewpan  over  a  slow  fire  and  let  the  contents  simmer  till  the  partridges  are 
done.  Cut  a  three-sided  block  of  bread  three  inches  high,  two  and  one-half  inches  at 
the  base  and  one  and  one-half  inches  at  the  top,  fry  it,  and  then  fix  it  in  the  middle 
of  a  dish  with  a  paste  prepared  with  a  little  flour  and  white  of  egg.  Drain  the  par- 
tridges when  cooked  and  place  one  on  each  side  of  the  bread.  Shape  three  large 
partridge  forcemeat  quenelles  like  pears  and  put  one  between  each  bird;  mix  some 
essence  of  partridge  with  perigueux  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  birds,  put  a  large  truffle 
on  top  of  the  bread,  fill  a  sauceboat  with  the  same  sauce,  and  serve  it  with  the  par- 
tridges. 

Braised    Partridges   with   Truffles. 

Prepare  and  truss  three  partridges  as  for  boiling,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  some 
mirepoix  and  cook  them;  when  done  drain  and  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish  to  form  a 
hollow  triangle.  Put  round  some  sliced  truffles  that  have  been  mixed  with  supreme 
sauce,  fill  a  sauceboat  with  supreme  sauce,  and  serve. 

Broiled    Partridges,   American   Style. 

Singe,  draw  and  wipe  neatly  three  tender  partridges;  cut  them  in  halves,  lay  them 
on  a  dish  and  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  oil.  Roll  them 
in  well  and  put  them  to  broil  for  seven  minutes  on  each  side.  Prepare  six  slices  of 
fried  hominy,  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  partridges  over  and  pour  one  gill 
of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  top;  place  six  slices  of  broiled  bacon  over  the  birds,  and 
serve. 

Broiled  Partridge   Cutlets  with   Colbert  Sauce. 

Chop  three  tender  partridges  each  in  halves  lengthwise,  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper 
over  them,  dip  them  in  warmed  butter,  then  in  breadcrumbs,  put  them  on  a  gridiron 
and  broil  over  a  clear  slow  fire,  turn  them  when  done  on  one  side  and  finish  the  other. 
When  cooked  put  the  partridges  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  some  Colbert  sauce,  and 
serve. 

Chartreuse  of  Partridges. 

Cut  a  cabbage  into  quarters,  wash  it  well,  plunge  it  into  boiling  water,  then  soak 
it  in  cold  water  for  two  hours.  Drain  and  squeeze  all  the  water  out  of  the  cabbage, 
cut  the  stalks  out,  tie  the  pieces  together,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  two  or 
three  slices  of  streaky  bacon  previously  blanched;  pour  some  general  stock,  mixed 
with  essence  of  partridge,  over  it,  put  in  some  clarified  fat,  and  finish  as  described 
for  Cabbage  for  Garnishing.  Cut  some  carrots  and  turnips  into  slices  two  inches  long 
with  a  vegetable  cutter,  and  cook  them  separately,  as  described  for  Garnishes.  Put  a 
round  of  paper  at  the  bottom  of  a  plain  entree-mould  that  has  been  buttered,  garnish 
it  with  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip,  and  put  a  layer  of  cabbage  in  the  mould.  Cut  up 


GAME.  359 

three  roast  partridges,  put  four  fillets  on  the  cabbage,  then  put  another  layer  of  the 
cabbage  on  them;  continue  with  alternate  layers  of  partridge  and  cabbage  till  the 
mould  is  full.  Stand  the  mould  in  a  bain-marie  till  the  contents  are  warm.  When 
ready  to  serve  turn  the  chartreuse  onto  an  entree  dish,  and  arrange  alternately  round 
the  base  some  rounds  of  carrots  and  turnips,  with  a  string  bean  between  each.  Put 
some  rings  of  turnip  round  the  top  of  the  chartreuse  and  a  Brussels  sprout  in  each. 
Make  a  sort  of  cup  or  vase  with  a  carrot,  fill  it  with  string  beans,  and  place  it  in  the 
center.  Reduce  some  Spanish  sauce  with  essence  of  partridge,  fill  a  sauceboat  with  it, 
and  serve  with  the  chartreuse. 

Partridge   Croustades. 

Truss  eight  partridges  as  for  braising,  fasten  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  on  each  one, 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  mirepoix,  stand  them  over  a  slow  fire  and  simmer 
till  done.  Prepare  fourteen  truffles,  eight  cockscombs,  and  eight  large  crayfish  as 
for  garnish.  Cut  an  oval  shaped  piece  of  bread,  fry  it,  put  it  on  a  dish,  and  place  a 
block  of  fried  bread  in  the  center.  Drain  the  partridges  when  cooked,  arrange  them, 
necks  downward,  against  the  block  of  bread,  and  put  a  crayfish  between  each.  Stick 
a  silver  skewer  garnished  with  cockscombs  and  truffles  in  each  bird,  so  as  to  form  a 
circle,  and  place  the  remaining  truffles  inside  the  circle.  Fill  a  silver  casserole  with 
a  financiere  garnishing  that  has  had  some  Spanish  sauce  reduced  with  essence  of 
partridge  mixed  with  it,  and  serve. 

Fillets   of   Partridges,    Financiere. 

Trim  and  lard  the  fillets  of  six  partridges  with  thin  strips  of  bacon,  put  them  in 
a  sautepan  with  a  little  melted  glaze  and  cook  them.  Make  a  croustade  of  paste 
the  same  size  as  the  dish  on  which  the  fillets  are  to  be  served  and  two  inches  deep. 
Prepare  a  financiere  garnishing  of  foies  gras,  truffles,  mushrooms,  cockscombs  and 
kernels  and  chicken  forcemeat  quenelles  mixed  in  a  financiere  sauce.  Trim  the 
minion  fillets  into  scallops  and  mix  them  in  the  garnishing,  half  of  which  should  be 
turned  into  the  croustade.  Arrange  the  fillets  on  it  in  a  circle,  pile  the  remaining 
garnishing  in  the  center,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  financiere  sauce. 

Fillets   of    Partridges,   Toulouse. 

Cut  the  fillets  off  six  partridges  and  trim  and  curve  them  slightly;  put  the  large 
ones  in  one  buttered  sautepan  and  the  minion  fillets  in  another.  Stick  a  little  piece 
of  truffle  with  the  white  of  an  egg  on  the  round  ends  of  each  of  the  small  fillets.  Fry 
the  large  fillets  and  when  cooked  drain  and  arrange  them  round  a  croustade  on  a  hot 
dish.  Cook  the  small  fillets  in  the  oven  and  when  done  put  in  a  circle  on  the  others. 
Fill  the  croustade  with  cocks'  kernels  mixed  in  supreme  sauce,  pour  some  supreme 
sauce  over  the  fillets,  and  serve. 


360  GAME. 

Fillets   of   Partridges  with   Truffles. 

Cut  the  fillets  off  the  breasts  of  some  partridges,  making  four  fillets  of  each 
breast,  trim  them  to  a  nice  shape,  lay  them  in  a  thickly  buttered  baking  tin,  dust 
over  with  salt  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper.  Slightly  roast  the  birds 
from  which  the  fillets  have  been  removed,  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  few  trimmings  of  ham,  two  or  three  cloves  and  peppercorns,  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  two  shallots,  salt  to  taste  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  clear  stock  to 
cover;  one  wineglassful  of  claret  may  also  be  added  if  liked.  Boil  the  whole  over  a 
slow  fire  for  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Stir  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one- 
half  ounce  of  flour  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire.  Skim  and  strain  the  liquor  from  the 
birds  and  stir  it  in  gradually  with  the  butter  and  flour;  put  in  a  few  button  mush- 
rooms and  truffles  and  boil  them  gently  until  cooked.  Put  the  fillets  in  the  oven  and 
bake  them  till  just  set.  When  the  truffles  and  mushrooms  are  cooked  take  them  out 
of  the  sauce  and  pile  them  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish;  drain  the  fillets  from  the  butter, 
arrange  them  round  the  truffles,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 


Partridge    Pie. 

Singe,  draw  and  clean  three  partridges,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  but- 
ter, season  them  well  and  fry  lightly.  Line  the  inside  of  a  pie-dish  with  some  veal 
cutlets,  and  over  that  put  a  slice  of  bacon,  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  two  chopped 
mushrooms.  Cut  the  partridges  in  halves,  put  them  in  and  place  two  more  chopped 
mushrooms  and  a  little  chopped  parsley  over;  cut  some  hard-boiled  eggs  in  halves, 
put  them  on  the  top  and  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  gravy.  Put  a  strip  of  puff  paste 
round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  place  a  cover  of  the  paste  on  the  top  and  press  them  to- 
gether; dip  a  pastebrush  in  beaten  egg,  brush  the  top  of  the  pie  over  with  it  and 
make  a  small  hole  in  the  center.  Put  it  in  a  hot  oven  with  a  piece  of  paper  on  top  to 
prevent  its  browning  too  much,  and  bake  it  for  an  hour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


Partridges,    Princess   Beatrice    Style. 

Prepare  three  partridges,  truss  them  for  roasting,  and  lard  their  breasts  with  thin 
strips  of  fat  smoked  bacon.  The  larding  can  be  done  in  a  fancy  design.  Lay  the 
birds  in  a  basin  with  some  verjuice  and  leave  them  for  an  hour  or  two.  When  ready, 
drain  and  wipe  them  very  carefully  on  a  dry  cloth  without  disturbing  the  pattern  of 
the  larding.  Butter  some  sheets  of  broiling-paper,  wrap  each  bird  separately  in  it 
and  roast  them  in  the  oven,  keeping  them  well  basted.  In  about  half  an  hour  re- 
move the  paper  and  brown  the  birds.  Lay  them  on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  water- 
cress, and  serve  with  a  clear  sauce. 


GAME.  361 

Puree   of  Partridge. 

Empty  and  clean  three  partidges,  put  them  in  a  braisingpan  with  a  little  game 
broth  and  braise  them.  When  done  let  them  cool.  Strain  the  cooking  liquor  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  double  its  quantity  of 
veloute  sauce  and  boil  till  reduced  to  the  thickness  of  thick  supreme  sauce.  Take  all 
the  meat  from  the  partridges  when  cold,  chop  it,  put  it  in  a  mortar  and  pound,  pouring 
on  at  the  same  time  the  sauce.  Pass  the  puree  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  it  is  then 
ready  for  use. 

Roasted  Partridges. 

Pluck  the  partridges,  draw  and  truss  them,  and  fasten  some  thin  slices  of  fat 
bacon  round  them,  roast  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  Five  minutes  before  dish- 
ing take  the  bacon  off,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  the  birds,  and  brown  them.  Put  the 
partridges  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  them  with  a  sauceboatful  of  brown  gravy. 

Roasted  Partridge,  Perigord. 

Pluck,  singe,  and  draw  three  partridges.  Put  four  ounces  of  scraped  fat  bacon 
in  a  stewpan  with  three  bay  leaves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  two  or  three  cloves,  and 
place  over  the  fire  till  boiling ;  then  take  out  the  bay  leaves,  cloves  and  mace.  Finely 
chop  three  large  truffles,  put  them  in  with  the  fat,  also  put  in  ten  sliced  truffles,  pour 
in  one  quart  of  white  sauce,  and  boil  it  until  thickly  reduced,  keeping  it  well  stirred 
at  the  same  time.  Move  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  stir  in  quickly  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  pour  it  on  the  plate.  When  the  truffle  mixture  is  cold,  stuff 
the  partridges  with  it,  then  hang  them  up  and  leave  them  for  a  few  days,  so  as  to  be 
well  flavored  with  the  truffles.  When  ready  for  cooking,  wrap  the  birds  separately  in 
sheets  of  buttered  paper,  fix  them  on  a  roasting  pan  and  roast  them  in  a  hot  oven  for 
half  an  hour.  Pour  two  quarts  of  white  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  veal 
broth,  put  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  few  thinly-sliced  French  truffles, 
and  a  scant  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Stir  and  boil  it  until  thickly  reduced,  then  mix  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  When  cooked  take  the  birds  out  of  the  sheets 
of  paper,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Roasted  Partridges  Stuffed  with  Truffles. 

Singe  and  draw  two  young  red  partridges.  Peel  six  black  truffles,  cut  them  in 
quarters  and  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  over  them.  Chop  the  livers  of  the  partridges 
that  have  been  cooked  with  two  chickens'  livers,  an  equal  quantity  of  fat  bacon  and 
the  trimmings  of  the  truffles ;  put  the  mince  in  a  mortar,  pound  it  and  pass  it  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  some  bacon  fat  in  a  fryingpan,  and  when  melted  put  in  the 
truffles  ;  toss  them  about  over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  mix  them  with  the 


362  GAME. 

forcemeat  and  stuff  the  partridges  with  it ;  truss,  lay  them  in  a  roastingpan,  spread 
with  butter  and  set  the  pan  in  the  oven,  basting  the  birds  occasionally  with  their  own 
butter.  When  the  birds  are  cooked  (they  will  take  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  min- 
utes, according  to  their  size),  sprinkle  salt  over  and  put  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Mix  a 
little  gravy  in  the  drippings,  skim  off  the  fat,  and  boil  it  till  reduced  to  half  its  orig- 
inal quantity,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Garnish  the  partridges  with 
slices  of  lemon,  and  serve  them  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat 

Salmis  of  Partridges. 

Truss  three  perfectly  fresh  partridges  as  for  roasting,  put  them  in  a  sautepan  with 
a  little  butter,  and  brown  them  over  a  brisk  fire.  Leave  them  till  half  cold,  then  cut 
the  wings  and  legs  off  and  separate  the  breasts;  pare  and  trim  each  piece.  Put  the 
carcasses,  trimmings,  and  some  fat  bacon  in  a  stewpan,  and  with  them  prepare  a  little 
rich  gravy.  Fry  the  livers  in  butter,  then  put  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them,  add 
them  to  some  brown  sauce,  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  hot,  then  skim  and  pass  it  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  it  again  in  the  saucepan,  strain  the  gravy  in,  turn  the  legs  of 
the  partridges  in,  and  warm  them.  Arrange  the  legs  on  a  hot  dish,  put  the  wings  on 
them,  and  the  breasts  at  the  top.  Put  some  croutons  of  fried  bread,  mushrooms,  and 
truffles  round  the  dish,  pour  the  sauce  into  a  sauceboat,  and  serve. 

Partridge   Sauted,    Hunter's   Style. 

Singe,  draw  and  wipe  two  fine,  tender  partridges,  cut  them  into  twelve  pieces, 
place  them  in  a  sautepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
brown  well  for  three  minutes  on  each  side;  add  a  finely-chopped  shallot,  one-half 
wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine,  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  twelve  whole  mush- 
rooms. Cook  for  fifteen  minutes  longer,  then  serve  with  six  croutons  of  bread  round 
the  dish  for  garnish. 

Stewed   Partridges. 

Procure  three  partridges,  .old  ones  will  do,  lard  them,  and  truss  them  as  for  boil- 
ing. Line  a  stewpan  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  put  in  the  parti  idges,  breasts  down- 
wards, with  a  slice  of  lean  veal,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  a  few  chopped  savory 
vegetables;  pour  in  a  teacupful  each  of  gravy  and  white  wine.  Let  all  cook  over  a 
slow  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  then  place  the  partridges  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  their 
cooking  liquor  over  them,  garnish  with  cut  lemons  and  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Partridges,    Chipolata. 

Cut  a  partridge  into  quarters,  put  it  into  a  pan  with  butter,  and  fry  it  until  brown, 
dusting  it  over  with  flour.  Put  in  two  dozen  small  onions,  one-half  pound  of  sausages 
cut  into  thin  slices  and  fried,  six  chopped  mushrooms,  and  twelve  roasted  chestnuts; 


GAME.  363 

add  seasoning  to  taste,  pour  in  two  or  three  wineglassfuls  of  white  wine,  and  stew  till 
all  is  tender.  Thicken  the  sauce,  turn  the  whole  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  croutons 
of  fried  bread. 

Stewed   Partridges,   Montmorency. 

Truss  some  young  partridges  as  for  stewed  partridges,  Spanish  style.  Dip  the 
breasts  into  boiling  water  to  make  them  firm,  then  plunge  them  into  cold  water,  and 
lard  them  with  bacon.  Put  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan, 
put  the  partridges  in,  put  some  more  rashers  of  fat  bacon  on  the  top  of  them,  and 
moisten  to  half  their  height  with  fowl  broth.  Stand  the  pan  over  a  brisk  fire  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  move  to  the  side  and  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Glaze,  take 
them  out,  drain,  and  glaze  again.  Put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  Dutch 
sauce. 

Stewed   Partridges,   Spanish    Style. 

Pluck  two  or  three  partridges  carefully  so  as  not  to  injure  the  skin,  clean  them, 
cut  off  the  sinew  that  is  under  the  joints  of  the  legs,  and  skewer  the  legs  up  towards 
the  breast.  Fill  a  needle  with  packthread,  run  it  through  the  stump  of  the  right 
wing,  then  through  the  thick  joint  of  the  leg,  next  across  the  body,  and  then  again 
through  the  other  stump;  then  tighten  the  packthread  and  fasten  the  knot.  Run  the 
needle  through  from  the  back  to  the  side  beneath  the  leg,  and  then  above  the  pinion 
below  the  breast,  so  as  to  perforate  the  breast  bone,  let  the  needle  come  out  from  the 
part  parallel  to  that  where  it  was  first  introduced,  then  through  the  side  to  the 
back,  and  then  fasten  the  packthread.  Care  should  be  taken  to  give  the  birds  as  nice 
a  shape  as  possible.  Put  some  slices  of  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan,  put 
the  partridges  in,  cover  them  with  more  bacon,  pour  in  some  rich  fowl  broth,  cover, 
and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  fire.  When  done  drain  them,  place  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  over  some  Spanish  sauce  in  which  has  been  mixed  a  little  glaze,  and  serve. 

How   to   Truss   Pheasants,   Etc. 

Pheasants  are  trussed  in  the  same  manner  as  fowls,  and  so  are  partridges  and 
grouse,  with  the  exception  that,  like  all  small  wild  fowl,  the  legs  are  crossed  and  the 
heads  skinned  and  threaded  on  skewers  through  the  pinions;  pigeons  and  other  birds 
of  a  similar  size  are  trussed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  the  breasts  plump  out. 

Snipe  and  woodcock  are  trussed  in  France  by  thrusting  the  long  beak  through 
the  body  and  fastening  the  wings  under  the  thighs;  woodcocks  are  sometimes  trussed 
with  the  head  "hooded,"  as  it  is  called,  under  the  skin  of  the  breast. 

Braised   Pheasant. 

,    Prepare  and  truss  a  pheasant  as  for  boiling.     Line  a  stewpan  with  slices  of  fat 
bacon  and  one  or  two  thick  slices  of  veal,  put  in  the  bird,  season  it  well  with  salt 


364  GAME. 

and  pepper,  add  a  few  sweet  herbs,  cover  it  with  more  slices  of  bacon  and  veal,  cover 
the  stewpan  down  perfectly  air-tight,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  and  cook  for  two 
hours.  When  done  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  over  it  some  of  the  gravy  that  will 
have  run  from  it  while  cooking,  garnish  it  with  sliced  lemons,  and  serve. 

Braised   Pheasant,    Financiere. 

Prepare  and  braise  two  pheasants.  Then  prepare  a  financiere,  garnishing  with 
foies  gras,  cockscombs,  truffles  and  pheasant  forcemeat  quenelles,  and  mix  with  them 
some  financiere  sauce.  Put  a  block  of  fried  bread  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  sticking  it 
onto  the  dish  with  the  white  of  egg  and  flour  paste;  arrange  the  pheasants,  leaning 
against  each  end  of  the  bread,  put  the  garnishing  in  the  dish  in  order,  put  a  row  of 
pheasant  forcemeat  quenelles  between  each  pheasant,  a  cooked  and  larded  sweetbread 
each  side  of  the  bread,  with  cooked  truffles  on  each.  Put  four  crayfish  and  some 
cockscombs  in  the  spaces,  and  put  another  larded  and  sweetbread  on  top  of  the  bread. 
Get  five  silver  attelettes  and  garnish  them  with  cockscombs,  truffles  and  crayfish,  stick 
them  in  the  pheasants  and  sweetbreads,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  financiere 
sauce  that  has  been  reduced  with  essence  of  pheasant. 

Broiled    Pheasant. 

Cut  the  bird  into  four  pieces  and  fry  them  in  lard;  when  nicely  browned  all  over 
and  half  done  through,  take  them  from  the  fire,  drain  the  lard  from  them,  brush  over 
with  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  a  paper  of  breadcrumbs  mixed  with  salt  and  cayenne, 
put  them  on  a  hot  well-greased  gridiron  and  broil  them  for  ten  minutes  over  a  clear 
fire. 

Fillets   of  Pheasants,   Maintenon. 

Take  the  fillets  from  two  large  young  pheasants  and  cut  each  in  two  slices,  beat 
them  lightly,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  olive  oil  and  saute  them  over  a  quick  fire,  keeping  them  rather  under- 
done. When  cooked,  take  the  fillets  out  and  drain  them.  Put  two  chopped  onions 
in  the  sautepan  and  fry  them  till  lightly  browned,  adding  more  oil  if  necessary;  then 
mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  chopped  parsley  and  one 
pint  of  white  sauce  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg  and  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar.  Bail  the  sauce  till  thickly  reduced,  stirring  it  at  the  same  time; 
put  the  fillets  in  the  sauce,  move  it  away  from  the  fire  and  leave  it  till  cold.  Cut  as 
many  pieces  of  white  paper  as  there  are  fillets  into  heart-shaped  pieces;  put  a  fillet 
on  each  with  the  sauce  divided  equally  and  wrap  the  papers  over,  twisting  them  well 
at  the  ends.  Broil  the  fillets  over  a  clear,  but  slow  fire.  When  cooked  put  them  on 
a  hot  dish,  leaving  them  in  their  papers,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  gravy. 


GAME.  365 

Fried    Fillets   of  Pheasants   with   Truffles. 

Cut  off  the  fillets  of  two  young  but  well-hung  pheasants;  put  them  in  a  saute  - 
pan  with  some  thin  slices  of  truffles  and  fry  them  in  clarified  butter.  When  nicely 
browned  on  both  sides  drain  them,  place  on  a  sheet  of  paper  on  the  table  and  trim  them 
all  to  the  same  shape,  leaving  the  truffles  to  cook  a  little  longer;  put  the  fillets  in  the 
sautepan  again  and  give  them  one  or  two  turns  over  the  fire.  Reduce  some  bechamel 
sauce  with  essence  of  truffles  and  pheasants;  drain  the  fillets  and  truffles,  arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Deviled  Legs  of  Pheasants. 

Take  the  legs  of  cold  roast  pheasants,  score  them  across  four  or  five  times,  rub 
mustard,  salt  and  pepper  into  the  cuts,  and  broil  them  on  a  hot  gridiron  with  a  piece 
of  cold  butter  laid  on  each  leg.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Pheasant   Perigueux. 

Pluck,  singe  and  draw  a  pheasant  and  make  the  following  forcemeat:  Peel  one- 
half  pound  of  fresh  truffles,  chop  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  three  ounces  of 
bacon  fat.  Put  the  pounded  mixture  in  a  small  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  hot  through;  then  turn  it  in  a  basin,  let  it  get  cold,  and  season  it  to  taste.  Stuff 
the  bird  with  this  and  leave  it  for  two  days  to  absorb  the  flavor  of  the  truffles.  Wrap 
it  in  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  lay  it  in  a  roasting  pan  and  set  it  in  the  oven  to  roast, 
keeping  it  well  basted.  When  the  pheasant  is  cooked  remove  the  paper,  place  it  on 
a  hot  dish,  pour  round  it  a  rich  brown  gravy  made  from  the  necks,  gizzards,  etc.,  and 
serve,  garnished  with  truffles  and  potato  croquettes,  with  a  little  mushroom  catsup 
and  essence  of  ham  added 

Roasted   Pheasant. 

Singe  and  truss  the  bird  and  put  inside  a  shallot  and  a  lump  of  butter;  lard  the 
breast  close  with  thin  strips  of  bacon,  and  tie  a  thin  strip  of  bacon  over  the  larded 
part.  Roast  the  bird  in  a  good  hot  oven,  basting  it  often  with  butter.  Five  minutes 
before  taking  the  bird  from  the  oven  remove  the  slice  of  bacon  and  brown  the  larded 
part.  When  cooked  place  the  bird  on  a  hot  dish,  strew  over  it  some  crumbs  of  bread 
that  have  been  fried  brown  in  butter,  and  serve  it  with  a  sauceboatful  each  of  rich 
brown  gravy  and  bread  sauce. 

Salmis  of  Pheasant. 

Cut  off  the  flesh  of  a  cold  roast  pheasant,  remove  the  skin,  and  trim  each  piece 
nicely;  put  the  bones  and  trimmings  in  a  stewpan  with  two  shallots,  a  clove  of  garlic, 
a  laurel  leaf,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  small  piece  of  meat  glaze,  moisten 


366  GAME. 

with  one  pint  of  white  wine  and  one  tablespoonful  of  rich  gravy.  Stew  the  whole 
gently  till  the  sauce  has  sufficiently  reduced,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve. 
Return  it  to  the  saucepan,  put  in  the  pieces  of  pheasant  meat,  heat  them  through  but 
do  not  boil  the  sauce  again.  Arrange  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  squeeze  the  juice  of  an 
orange  into  the  sauce,  pour  it  round  the  meat,  garnish  with  sippets  of  toast,  or  crou- 
tons of  bread  that  have  been  fried  brown  in  butter,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Pheasant  Soubise. 

Truss  a  pheasant  as  for  boiled  chicken,  put  it  in  a  braisingpan  with  a  layer  of 
bacon,  some  chopped  vegetables,  some  sweet  herbs,  and  one-half  pint  of  stock,  and 
braise  it.  When  cooked  take  it  out  of  the  braisingpan,  drain  it  and  dry  it  in  front  of 
the  fire.  Place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  surround  it  with  soubise  sauce,  and  serve 

Braised  Plovers. 

Line  a  braisingpan  with  sliced  bacon  and  beef  cut  about  half  an  inch  thick,  put 
in  a  couple  of  carrots,  two  small  onions,  a  bunch  of  thyme  and  bay  leaves,  together 
with  some  mixed  herbs,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  mixed  spice; 
then  put  in  the  birds,  fasten  on  the  lid  tightly,  solder  the  edges  of  the  pan  to  prevent 
air  ffom  getting  inside,  and  cover  the  lid  with  live  embers,  simmer  until  done,  or 
nearly  so,  when  the  heat  should  be  somewhat  lessened  until  quite  cooked,  then  place 
on  a  hot  dish  and  stand  them  near  the  fire.  Skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  liquor  and 
pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  over  the  birds,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over,  and 
garnish  with  egg  croquettes  and  watercress. 

Broiled  Plovers. 

Secure  six  fine  fat  plovers,  pick,  singe,  draw  and  wipe  them  well,  pick  out  the 
eyes,  and  split  them  through  the  back  without  separating  the  parts,  and  place  them 
upon  a  dish.  Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  as  much  pepper,  and  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  oil.  Rub  in  the  seasoning  thoroughly,  and  place  the  birds  on  a  broiler  to 
cook  for  four  minutes  on  either  side;  then  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish  with  six  pieces  of 
toast,  spread  over  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  decorating  with  a  little  watercress, 
and  serve. 

Fried  Plovers  with    Truffles. 

Place  four  plovers  in  a  saucepan  after  cleaning,  drawing  and  trussing  them,  and 
add  five  ounces  of  butter,  a  couple  of  cloves,  and  a  few  raw  truffles  cut  into  slices, 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place  the  pan  over  a  brisk  fire  and  cook  for  about  ten 
minutes  or  so,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine 
to  a  half  pint  of  the  stock;  pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  place  it  over  a  fire  and  cook 


GAME.  367 

gently  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  When  done,  arrange  the  birds  on  a 
dish,  add  the  juice  of  one  lemon  to  the  stock,  boil  again  for  a  few  minutes,  and  pour 
it  over  the  plovers,  and  they  are  ready  for  serving. 

Roasted  Plovers. 

Pluck  and  singe  the  desired  number  of  birds,  take  out  the  gizzards,  but  leaving 
the  remainder  of  the  entrails  inside.  Tie  a  thin  slice  of  fat  bacon  over  the  breast  of 
each  bird,  and  range  them  in  a  hot  oven  to  roast.  Place  in  a  drippingpan  some  slices 
of  toast  and  baste  them  continually  with  butter;  just  preparatory  to  removing  the 
birds  from  the  fire,  take  off  the  rashers  of  bacon  and  dust  them  with  salt;  when  the 
birds  are  done,  place  the  toasts  on  a  .hot  dish,  with  a  bird  on  each,  decorate  with 
quartered  lemons,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboat  of  white  sauce. 

(2.)  Pick,  singe,  draw  and  wipe  six  tender  and  fat  plovers,  pick  out  the  eyes, 
and  truss  the  legs  together,  and  skewer  the  head  under  one  leg;  then  lay  a  thin  slice 
of  larding  pork  on  each  bird,  tie  them  securely,  and  put  in  a  roastingpan,  seasoning 
with  a  little  salt,  spread  over  a  very  little  butter,  and  put  them  on  a  spit,  roasting  for 
ten  minutes,  Then  take  them  from  the  fire,  and  arrange  six  small  canapes  for  game 
on  a  hot  dish,  dress  the  plovers  on  them,  garnish  with  a  little  watercress,  and  serve. 

Salmis  of  Plover,  Maison  d'Or. 

Procure  six  fat  plovers,  pick,  singe  and  draw,  pick  out  their  eyes,  skin  the  heads, 
wipe,  and  sprinkle  over  with  a  little  salt;  place  in  a  roastingpan  and  cook  for  four 
minutes,  then  cut  off  the  legs  and  necks,  reserving  the  heads  for  future  use.  Chop 
up  half  a  carrot  and  onion,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a 
small  garnished  bouquet  and  six  whole  peppers;  cook  for  five  minutes,  add  a  break- 
fast cupful  of  Spanish  sauce,  half  a  wineglassful  of  sherry,  and  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  mushroom  liquor,  sprinkling  over  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  then  cook  them  for 
fifteen  minutes  longer.  Run  the  bills  through  good-sized  mushrooms,  stick  them  into 
the  breasts  of  the  plovers,  and  place  them  in  a  sautepan,  strain  over  the  liquor,  and 
add  a  dozen  mushrooms  cut  in  halves  and  the  zest  of  a  lemon,  cook  for  six  minutes, 
then  put  them  on  a  dish,  strain  over  the  sauce,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread 
covered  with  cooked  goose's  fat  livers  for  a  garnish. 

Fricassee  of  Prairie  Chicken. 

After  thoroughly  cleaning  and  singeing  the  bird,  cut  it  up  at  the  joints  and  flatten 
them  a  little  with  a  cutlet  bat;  put  the  pieces  of  the  bird  into  a  saucepan  with  an  onion 
stuck  with  a  couple  of  cloves  and  a  bunch  composed  of  one  or  two  small  sprigs  of 
thyme,  parsley  and  bay  leaf,  pour  in  enough  broth  to  cover,  and  place  the  pan  over 
the  fire  until  the  liquor  boils,  then  remove  it  to  one  side  and  let  it  simmer  until  the 
bird  has  become  tender.  Place  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  a  table- 


368  GAME. 

spoonful  of  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  until  melted,  then  pour  in  the  cooking  liquor  of  the 
bird,  passing  it  through  a  strainer,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  con- 
tinue stirring  over  the  fire  until  it  boils  again;  put  a  few  sliced  mushrooms  in  the 
liquor  and  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  the  bird.  Stir  the 
beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  into  the  fricassee  and  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  serving 
immediately. 

Roasted  Prairie   Chicken. 

Having  cleaned  and  singed  the  bird,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  the 
stomach  and  legs  and  rub  it  in  thoroughly;  lay  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  on  the 
breast,  fastening  them  in  position  with  twine,  then  wrap  the  bird  in  a  sheet  of  well 
buttered  paper,  lay  it  on  a  roastingpan,  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  continually. 
It  should  cook  in  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  its  age.  About  five 
minutes  before  taking  it  out  remove  the  paper,  but  allowing  the  slices  of  bacon  to 
remain  on  it;  place  the  bird  on  a  hot  dish,  mix  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  with  the 
gravy  in  the  drippingpan,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  strain  through  a 
fine  hair-sieve  over  the  bird,  garnishing  with  watercress,  and  serve. 

Stewed    Prairie   Chicken. 

Put  about  three  tablespoonfuls  of  small  squares  of  fat  salted  pork  into  a  stewpan 
with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  toss  them  about  over  a  brisk  fire  until  melted,  then  pre- 
pare and  truss  a  bird,  put  it  in  the  fat  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  one  large  onion 
and  a  small  carrot,  cut  in  slices  and  fry  the  whole  together  until  it  begins  to  color, 
then  moisten  to  height  with  white  wine  and  broth  mixed  in  equal  amounts  and  keep  it 
simmering  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire.  When  the  bird  has  become  tender,  place  it 
on  a  hot  dish;  boil  the  cooking  liquor  for  a  few  minutes  so  as  to  slightly  reduce  it 
and  pour  it  through  a  strainer  onto  the  bird,  and  serve.  A  puree  of  either  beans, 
peas,  asparagus  or  mushrooms  is  a  good  accompaniment  to  this  dish, 
i 

Broiled    Quails. 

Singe  and  draw  the  quails,  split  them  lengthwise  down  the  back  and  wipe  them 
with  a  damp  cloth.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  rub  them  well  in  warmed  butter 
and  dredge  with  flour.  Place  the  birds  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  and  broil  for 
ten  minutes.  Cut  some  thick  slices  of  bread,  remove  the  crusts,  toast  and  butter 
them  and  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Place  a  quail  when  cooked  on  each  slice,  garnish 
with  parsley,  and  serve. 


Broiled  Quails   with    Bacon. 


Singe,  draw  and  wipe  well  half  a  dozen  fine  fat  quails,  split  them  through  the 
back  without  separating  the  parts,  and  break  the  two  leg-bones.  Place  them  on  a 
dish,  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  one-ha-f  pinch  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of 


GAME.  369 

sweet  oil,  mixing  them  in  well,  and  place  them  on  a  moderate  fire  to  broil  for  six 
minutes  on  both  sides.  Arrange  six  pieces  of  toast  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  quails  on 
top,  pour  over  one  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  decorating  with  six  slices  of  broiled 
bacon,  and  serve. 

Quails   Crapaudine. 

Singe  and  draw  the  quails,  remove  the  claws  and  truss  them  with  their  legs 
inward.  Pinch  the  breast  and  scallop  it  without  reaching  the  skin;  beat  the  birds 
flat,  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper  and  dip  them  twice  in  clarified  butter  and  bread- 
crumbs. Boil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  and  serve  with  Italian  sauce. 

Larded   Quails. 

Singe,  draw  and  wash  the  quails,  lard  the  breasts  and  legs,  run  a  small  skewer 
through  the  legs  and  tail  and  bind  them  firmly  round  with  thread.  Baste  the  breasts 
with  a  small  quantity  of  clarified  butter,  dust  a  little  salt  over  and  dredge  them  thickly 
with  flour.  Place  the  quails  in  a  bakingdish  and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven  for  fif- 
teen minutes.  Put  a  layer  of  bread  sauce  on  a  hot  dish;  when  cooked  untie  the  birds, 
place  them  on  the  dish  with  the  bread  sauce,  sift  plenty  of  fried  breadcrumbs  over 
them,  garnish  with  a  little  parsley,  and  serve. 

Quails  in    Cases. 

Singe  and  draw  the  quails  and  remove  half  of  the  backbones.  Fry  the  livers  of 
the  quails  with  the  same  quantity  of  chicken's  livers  in  a  small  quantity  of  rasped 
bacon  fat  and  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt.  When  cold  pound  the  fried  livers 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  ham  and  some  chopped  truffles.  Stuff  the  truffles 
with  half  of  the  prepared  forcemeat,  truss  them,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
little  butter  and  fry  until  half  cooked.  Mix  with  the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  fine  herbs.  Spread  a  layer  of  it  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  required  number  of  oiled  oval-shaped  paper  cases  and  place  a  quail  in 
each;  spread  two  sheets  of  paper  over  a  baking  sheet,  put  the  cases  on  it  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes  or  so.  When  the  birds  are 
cooked  take  the  cases  up,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  in  each  a  small  quantity 
of  sauce  that  has  been  reduced  in  Madeira,  and  serve. 

Quails  Jardiniere. 

Draw  and  truss  the  quails,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  mirepoix,  and  one  teacupful  of  Madeira;  stew  them 
gently  until  cooked.  Butter  a  plain  border  mould,  fill  it  with  braised  cabbage-let- 
tuces and  press  them  tightly  down.  Turn  the  border  out  on  a  hot  dish,  and  fill  the 


370  GAME. 

center  with  cooked  carrots,  turnips  and  French  beans ;  arrange  the  quails,  resting  half 
on  the  borders  and  half  on  the  vegetables,  brush  them  and  the  border  over  with 
melted  glaze,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  melted  glaze. 

Roasted   Quails. 

To  prepare  this  dish  successfully  a  clear  hot  open  fire  is  best,  but  in  lieu  of  that 
a  very  hot  oven  will  answer.  Pluck,  singe  and  draw  the  birds,  wipe  them  with  a  wet 
towel,  cut  off  the  heads  and  feet,  wrap  each  bird  in  a  slice  of  fat  salted  pork,  and 
pack  them  closely  in  a  saucepan  just  large  enough  to  hold  them.  Season  the  quails 
highly  with  salt  and  cayenne,  pour  over  just  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them, 
place  the  cover  on  the  saucepan,  and  place  it  on  a  hot  fire  for  five  or  ten  minutes. 
Then  take  up  the  quails,  remove  the  pork,  wipe  the  birds  on  a  clean  towel,  rub  them  all 
over  with  butter  and  roast  them  brown  before  a  very  hot  fire,  or  in  a  hot  oven,  basting 
them  twice  with  more  butter  and  their  drippings.  Meanwhile  strain  the  gravy  in 
which  they  were  stewed,  and  melt  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  red  currant  jelly  to 
form  a  sauce,  or  serve  cold  red  currant  jelly  with  them.  Serve  the  birds  hot  as  soon 
as  they  are  browner1. 

Salmis   of  Quails. 

Draw  and  prepare  two  quails,  cut  them  into  halves  lengthwise  down  the  back, 
place  them  in  a  pan  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter,  and  cook  them.  Have  in  readi- 
ness two  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  place  the  birds  on  them ;  reduce  and  thicken 
the  liquor,  strain  it,  pour  it  over  the  birds  and  serve  with  a  little  lemon  juice  squeezed 
over  each. 

Quails  with  Green  Peas. 

Singe,  draw  and  truss  the  quails  as  for  boiling,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  fry  till  they  are  nicely  browned;  then  put  in  one-half  pound  of 
streaky  bacon,  blanched  and  cut  into  squares,  one  and  one-half  pints  of  green  peas, 
one  onion,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  salt,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  broth  to  cook  them 
in.  Place  the  lid  on  the  stewpan  and  let  the  contents  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
for  fifteen  minutes.  When  cooked  drain  the  quails  and  cut  off  the  strings.  Remove 
the  parsley  and  onion  from  the  peas,  stir  a  piece  of  kneaded  flour  and  butter  in  with 
them,  turn  the  peas  onto  a  hot  dish,  put  the  quails  round  on  the  peas,  with  the  legs 
toward  the  center,  brush  them  over  with  melted  glaze,  and  serve. 

Deviled    Rabbit. 

Cut  a  rabbit  into,  joints  and  parboil  them;  when  they  are  entirely  cold,  score  them 
to  the  bone,  making  the  cuts  about  one-half  inch  apart.  Melt  over  the  fire  three 
ounces  of  butter,  mix  with  it  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  salt  and  mustard,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce;  stir  all  this  well 


GAME. 


37* 


together,  rub  each  piece  of  rabbit  with  it,  rubbing  it  thoroughly  into  the  scoring,  and 
broil  them  on  a  hot  gridiron  over  a  clear,  brisk  fire,  turning  the  pieces  as  soon 
as  they  commence  to  drip.  When  they  are  brown  pile  them  on  a  hot  dish,  melt  some 
butter,  and  pour  it  over.  Allow  them  to  lie  in  this  for  three  or  four  minutes, 
turning  them  often.  If  any  of  the  mixture  is  left  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Rabbit,  Valencienne  Style. 

Skin  the  rabbits,  cut  the  fillets  from  the  bones,  and  if  large  cut  each  fillet  into 
halves,  trim  them  to  the  shape  of  a  small  cutlet,  beat  them,  place  them  in  a  well- 
buttered  sautepan,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over,  sprinkle  them  over  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  stand  them  over  a  moderate  fire,  turning  them  when  cooked  on  one 
side,  and  finishing  the  other.  The  fillets  should  not  be  browned.  When  quite  firm 
arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  a  little  more  than  one  pint  of  sauce 
into  the  sautepan,  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  white  stock,  stir  it  over  the  fire,  and 
reduce  it  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  a  spoon;  then  stir  in  one-half  teacupful  of 
cream,  and  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Pour  the  sauce  over  the  fillets,  and  serve. 

Jugged    Rabbit. 

Clean  a  rabbit,  disjoint  it  and  cut  the  body  into  four  pieces.  Cut  one-half  pound 
of  lean  salt  pork  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter, 
and  toss  it  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  has  melted;  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  rabbit, 
and  fry  them  until  lightly  browned.  Sprinkle  over  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  pour 
in  one-half  pint  each  of  claret  and  broth,  add  eight  or  ten  small  onions,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  two  or  three  cloves,  and  place  the  stewpan  over  the 
fire  until  the  contents  -boil;  then  move  it  to  the  side,  and  allow  them  to  simmer  gently 
until  the  rabbit  is  tender.  When  cooked,  place  the  pieces  of  rabbit  on  a  hot  dish, 
arrange  the  onions  round  them,  strain  the  cooking  liquor  through  a  fine  hair-sieve, 
and  serve. 

Rabbit  Pie. 

Clean  and  skin  two  or  more  rabbits,  cut  them  up  into  joints,  and  then  again  into 
small  pieces,  removing  all  the  largest  bones;  add  about  one  pound  of  steak,  and  a 
few  slices  of  bacon  also  cut  up  small,  sprinkle  the  whole  over  with  finely-minced 
parsley  and  thyme,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  put  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie- 
dish  intermixed  with  a  few  forcemeat  balls  or  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  pour  over 
enough  stock  or  water  to  moisten,  place  a  crust  of  light  paste  on  the  top,  brush  it 
over  with  beaten  eggs  slightly  salted,  place  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for 
a  couple  of  hours.  When  cooked  take  it  out,  and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 


372  GAME. 

Roasted   Rabbit  with  Olives. 

Clean  a  rabbit  well,  lard  its  fleshy  parts  with  strips  of  salted  pork,  wrap  it  up  in 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  fastening  it  with  skewers  or  binding  twine  round  it,  and' 
roast  it  in  a  hot  even,  basting  it  frequently.  About  ten  minutes  before  removing  the 
rabbit  from  the  oven,  the  paper  should  be  removed  to  allow  it  to  brown.  When  the 
rabbit  is  cooked,  pour  the  gravy  out  of  the  drippingpan  into  a  small  saucepan,  add 
some  clear  beef  gravy  if  there  is  not  sufficient,  season  it  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  put  in  three  dozen  stoned  olives.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  and  boil  it  for  five 
minutes.  Untruss  the  rabbit,  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  round  with  the 
olives,  pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

Rabbit  Sauted. 

Skin  and  clean  well  a  young  rabbit  and  cut  it  up  into  joints.  Put  a  few  pieces  of 
ham  into  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter,  toss  the  pan  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  the  pieces  of  rabbit  and  a  little  each  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  thyme  and  onion, 
and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  longer;  sprinkle  flour  over  the  rabbit,  pour  in  stock  and 
white  wine  in  equal  proportions  and  enough  to  moisten,  remove  the  pan  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  meat  is  quite  tender.  Place  the  meat  on  a 
dish  to  keep  it  hot;  pour  the  sauce  through  a  sieve  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  few 
chopped  mushrooms,  stew  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  pour  it  over  the  rabbit,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Stewed    Rabbit. 

Draw,  skin  and  wash  a  rabbit,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  two  inches  in  length. 
Cut  one-half  pound  of  streaky  bacon  into  pieces  about  one  and  one-half  inches  long 
by  one  inch  in  width,  blanch  and  dry  them,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  one  ounce 
of  butter  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  color.  Take  them  out,  put  in  fifteen  button  mush- 
rooms and  fry  them  also,  then  put  them  on  a  plate  and  keep  them  hot.  Put  the 
pieces  of  rabbit  into  the  fryingpan  and  fry  them  gently  for  ten  minutes,  then  dust  in 
one  ounce  of  flour,  stir  well  for  a  couple  of  minutes,  and  add  three  teacupfuls  each  of 
broth  and  red  wine,  a  bunch  of  herbs,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  the  mushrooms 
and  pieces  of  bacon.  Place  the  pan  at  the  edge  of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  then  add  two  more  pints  of  mushrooms  and  cook  for  five 
minutes  longer.  Remove  the  herbs,  turn  the  remainder  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  and 
serve  it  immediately. 

Stewed  Rabbits  with   Fine  Herbs. 

Put  a  few  chopped  mushrooms  and  shallots  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity 
of  butter,  add  a  little  minced  parsley,  place  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  cook  them 
until  done;  then  put  in  two  rabbits  cut  up  into  pieces,  dust  them  over  with  salt,  pepper 


GAME. 


373 


and  grated  nutmeg,  add  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  toss  the  pan  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes;  pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  white  wine,  place  the  lid  on  the 
pan,  pile  hot  ashes  on  it,  and  let  it  remain  on  the  fire  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Add 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  small  lump  of  both  butter  and  game  glaze,  sprinkle  over 
a  small  quantity  of  flour,  and  stir  well  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Turn  the  whole 
out  onto  a  dish,  piling  it  up,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Reedbirds. 

Dress  the  reedbirds  without  splitting  them,  place  an  oyster  in  each  one,  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper,  broil  them  quickly  over  a  hot  clear  fire  for  about  five 
minutes,  and  serve  at  once. 

Fried  Reedbirds. 

Pluck  and  dress  the  birds,  splitting  them  down  the  back;  season  them  rather 
highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  them  in  flour,  cornmeal  or  sifted  bread  or  cracker 
crumbs  and  fry  them  brown  in  butter  or  lard  equally  mixed  and  made  smoking  hot 
before  the  birds  are  placed  in  it.  Or  dress,  split  and  season  them.  They  must  be 
served  hot  as  soon  as  they  are  brown. 

Roasted    Reedbirds. 

Procure  a  dozen  freshly  killed,  fine,  fat  reedbirds,  cut  off  their  legs  and  wings, 
pick  the  eyes  out,  remove  the  skin  from  the  heads,  clean  and  wipe  them  neatly  and 
with  a  skewer  remove  the  gizzards  from  the  sides;  then  cover  their  breasts  lightly 
with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  arrange  them  on  three  small  skewers,  four  on  each  one,  and 
place  them  in  a  roastingpan;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  spread  over  a  very  little 
butter,  and  stand  them  in  the  oven  to  roast  for  seven  minutes.  Place  them  on  a  hot 
dish  on  pieces  of  toast,  and  serve  at  once. 

Broiled    Snipes. 

Pick,  singe,  draw  and  dry  eight  fine  snipes,  remove  the  skin  from  the  heads,  split 
them  into  halves  without  detaching  the  parts,  and  place  them  on  a  dish.  Season  with 
one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  oil;  put  them  to 
broil  (with  the  bills  stuck  into  the  breasts),  and  allow  them  to  cook  for  four  minutes 
on  either  side.  Put  six  slices  of  hot  toast  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  snipes  on  them, 
spread  one  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  top,  decorate  the  dish  with  watercress,  and 
serve. 

Fillets  of  Snipes  in   Cases. 

Detach  the  fillets  from  the  bones  of  some  snipes,  trim  them  neatly  and  lay  them 
in  a  buttered  stewpan.  Prepare  a  puree  with  the  legs  of  the  snipes,  a  few  poultry 
livers,  some  game  giblets,  boiled  rice,  stock  and  butter.  Procure  as  many  paper  cases 


374  GAME. 

as  there  are  fillets  and  brush  over  their  interiors  with  oil.  Fry  the  fillets  over  a 
brisk  fire,  turning  them  when  they  are  cooked  on  one  side.  Fill  the  cases  with 
the  puree,  then  place  a  fillet  of  snipe  in  each  case.  Coat  the  top  of  each  with  some 
brown  sauce  that  has  been  reduced  with  the  essence  of  game,  place  the  cases  on  a 
baking  sheet,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  glaze.  Arrange  the 
cases  piled  up  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Roasted   Snipes. 

Pluck,  singe  and  draw  some  snipes  and  take  out  the  backbones.  Chop  fine  a 
quantity  of  fresh  pork  and  mix  with  it  an  equal  amount  of  chopped  raw  mushrooms, 
one  pinch  of  shallot,  some  parsley,  salt  and  pepper.  Fill  the  birds  with  the  above 
mixture,  sew  them  up  and  truss;  fix  the  snipes  on  a  spit  and  roast  them  in  front  of  a 
clear  fire,  or,  if  not  convenient,  roast  them  in  the  oven,  basting  them  constantly  with 
butter.  Place  some  slices  of  bread  underneath  the  birds  in  the  drippingpan.  Put  two 
sliced  onions  into  a  stewpan  with  a  small  lump  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  fry  until  well  browned;  then  dredge  in  a  little  flour,  and  stir  in  by  degrees  about 
one-half  pint  of  stock,  and  boil  it  gently  until  the  onions  are  cooked.  Fry  the  trails 
of  the  snipes  with  three  chickens'  livers,  season  them,  pound  and  pass  them  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  the  puree  of  trails  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  white  wine  and 
the  onions,  stir  them  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  boil. 
When  cooked  remove  the  snipes  from  the  fire,  brush  them  over  with  melted  glaze,  put 
the  pieces  of  bread  from  the  drippingpan  on  a  hot  dish,  stand  the  snipes  on  them, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Salmis    of  Snipes. 

Divide  eight  cold  roasted  snipes  into  two  pieces  each,  trim  off  the  necks,  skin 
the  feet  and  place  the  bodies  in  a  sautepan;  put  the  bones  and  trimmings  in  a  mortar 
and  pound  them;  then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  three  cloves, 
two  shallots,  and  one-half  pint  of  claret.  Boil  quickly  till  the  liquor  has  reduced  to  half 
its  original  quantity,  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  and  let  it  simmer  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  about  thirty  minutes,  skimming  frequently.  Strain  the  sauce 
through  a  silk  sieve  into  another  saucepan  and  boil  it  quickly  until  it  is  reduced  to 
a  thick  cream.  Pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  into  the  sautepan  with  the  snipes  and  warm 
without  boiling.  Put  the  pieces  of  snipe  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  garnish 
with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 


Squirrels,  American    Style. 


Put  slices  of  fat  bacon  in  a  bakingdish.  Skin  and  wash  a  squirrel,  wipe  it  dry, 
lay  it  on  the  bacon  and  place  two  slices  of  fat  bacon  on  the  top.  Bake  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  and  when  done,  lay  it  on  a  hot  dish  and  keep  it  in  front  of  the  fire  until 


GAME.  375 

wanted  to  serve.  Take  the  bacon  out  of  the  bakingdish,  dredge  into  the  gravy  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  brown.  Pour  into  the  gravy 
one  teacupful  of  brown  stock,  a  little  walnut  catsup  or  tomato  sauce  and  a  small 
lump  of  butter.  Stir  the  above  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  has  dissolved,  then  re- 
move it,  cool  it  a  little,  pour  it  over  the  squirrel,  garnish  with  stewed  corn  and  po- 
tato-balls, and  serve. 

Broiled   Squirrel. 

Wash  and  wipe  a  squirrel  dry,  brush  it  over  with  warm  butter  or  bacon-fat  and 
broil  it  over  a  clear  fire  for  ten  minutes.  When  cooked,  place  the  squirrel  on  a  hot 
dish,  set  some  slices  of  broiled  salt  pork  on  top  of  it  and  pour  some  rich  brown 
gravy,  garnish  round  with  boiled  potatoes,  and  serve. 

Broiled  Venison  Chops. 

Cut  the  chops  of  a  moderate  thickness,  remove  the  bones  and  season  the  chops 
with  salt  and  pepper,  then  put  them  into  a  basin,  baste  them  with  olive  oil  and  allow 
them  to  steep  in  it  for  two  days.  When  ready  for  them  place  the  chops  on  a  greased 
gridiron,  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire  for  twenty  minutes,  turning  them  when  half 
done.  When  cooked  place  the  chops  on  a  hot  dish,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste 
brush  dipped  in  glaze,  and  serve  them  with  a  dish  of  butter. 

Broiled  Venison  Chops  with   Chestnut  Puree. 

Take  half  a  dozen  fine  venison  chops,  pare,  flatten  them  a  trifle,  and  put  them 
on  a  plate,  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
oil.  Roll  them  well  in  this  seasoning,  and  put  them  to  broil  for  four  minutes  on  each 
side.  Put  one  pint  of  hot  puree  of  chestnuts  on  a  dish,  place  the  chops  over,  and 
serve  with  a  gravy  poured  over  all. 

Fried   Venison    Chops. 

Season  the  chops  with  pepper  and  salt,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of 
butter,  and  fry  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  frequently.  Trim  some  mushrooms, 
put  them  in  a  small  saucepan,  pour  over  one-half  pint  of  brown  gravy,  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  while  the  chops  are  cooking.  In 
the  course  of  twenty  minutes  the  chops  should  be  cooked;  then  put  them  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Venison    Collops. 

Trim  off  the  skin  and  sinews  from  any  remains  of  cold  cooked  venison,  chop 
fine  the  flesh  and  mix  with  it  one-third  of  the  quantity  of  finely-minced  bacon  and 
one  teacupful  of  finely-grated  breadcrumbs.  Season  the  mixture  to  taste  with  salt, 


376  GAME. 

pepper  and  a  few  mixed  herbs,  and  bind  it  well  with  beaten  eggs.  When  well  worked 
together  divide  the  mixture  into  small  quantities,  which  roll  into  balls,  flatten  them 
and  dip  them  into  beaten  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs.  Place  a  lump  of  butter  in  a 
fryingpan,  melt  it,  put  in  the  collops  and  fry  them  until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides. 
When  cooked  drain  them,  arrange  on  a  dish  that  has  been  spread  over  with  a  folded 
napkin,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  piquant  sauce. 

Braised   Venison    Cutlets. 

Lard  the  cutlets  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  bunch  of  thyme  and  pars- 
ley, two  carrots  and  one  sliced  onion.  Pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  gravy  and  braise 
the  cutlets  for  twenty  minutes.  When  cooked  brush  them  over  with  a  little  melted 
glaze,  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  them  with  a  sauceboatful  of  piquant 
sauce. 

Broiled    Venison    Cutlets. 

Cut  some  cutlets  off  the  breast  of  a  doe,  remove  the  chine  bone  and  trim  round 
the  other  end  of  the  bone;  beat  the  cutlets  lightly,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  lay  them  on  a  deep  dish,  spread  some  chopped  onions  and  parsley  leaves  over 
them,  cover  with  good  oil  and  allow  them  to  macerate  for  two  or  three  hours  in  a 
cool  place.  Drain  the  cutlets,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire, 
turning  them  when  done  on  one  side  and  finishing  the  other.  Make  some  piquant 
sauce  and  mix  with  it  at  least  two  tablespoonfuls  of  currant  jelly.  When  the  cutlets 
are  nicely  browned  arrange  them,  overlapping  each  other,  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the 
prepared  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Roasted    Fillet    of  Venison. 

Lard  the  fillet  of  venison  with  narrow  strips  of  bacon,  trimming  it  neatly;  put 
it  in  a  basin  with  one  onion,  stuck  with  three  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little 
black  pepper,  and  cover  with  equal  quantities  of  white  wine  and  vinegar;  allow  it  to 
soak  for  two  days.  At  the  end  of  that  time  roast  the  fillet  in  a  hot  oven,  basting  it 
continually  with  the  marinading  stock.  When  cooked  place  the  fillet  on  a  hot  dish, 
mix  a  little  of  the  basting-liquor  with  some  poivrade  sauce,  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce- 
boat  with  the  fillet. 

Fillet   of  Venison,  St.   Hubert. 

Lard  with  strips  of  bacon,  some  thick  slices  cut  from  a  fillet  of  venison.  Place 
a  lump  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  then  put  in  the  slices  of  venison,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  them  with  red  wine  and  stock  in  equal  quantities. 
Stew  the  venison  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  then  stir  in  a  little  brown  thickening,  and  add 
a  lump  of  sugar  and  some  sliced  gherkins.  When  cooked,  turn  the  venison  onto  a 
hot  dish,  and  serve  it  without  delay. 


GAME.  377 

Roasted    Forequarter  of  Venison. 

Bone  the  venison,  beat  it  well  and  rub  it  with  salt.  Prepare  a  paste  of  flour, 
eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and  leave  it  in  a  cool  place  for  an 
hour;  then  roll  it  out  thinly,  cover  it  with  slices  of  bacon,  place  the  venison  on  the 
bacon,  sprinkle  some  salt  and  pepper  over  it,  and  wrap  it  up.  Dampen  the  edges  of 
the  paste  with  water,  and  press  them  firmly  together,  wrap  in  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  and  roast  it  in  a  hot  oven  on  a  baking  pan.  Fifteen  minutes  before  taking  the 
venison  up,  remove  the  paper  and  paste.  When  cooked  take  the  joint  carefully  off 
the  pan,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  red  currant  jelly,  and  a  sauceboatful  of 
poivrade  sauce. 

Jugged  Venison  with  Poivrade  Sauce. 

Take  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  venison,  the  lower  part  if  possible,  as  the  lean 
parts  are  preferable,  and  cut  it  into  small  square  pieces  ;  place  these  in  an  earthenware 
jar  with  one  sliced  onion,  one-half  bunch  of  parsley  roots,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  or 
three  bay  leaves,  a  dozen  whole  peppers,  two  pinches  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper, 
and  one-half  wineglassful  of  vinegar.  Allow  them  to  marinade  for  twelve  hours. 
Drain  off  the  juice,  put  the  venison  into  a  sautepan  with  one  ounce  of  clarified  butter, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes ;  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  it  well 
while  adding.  Moisten  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of  broth,  also  the  marinade  liquor 
well  strained.  Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  cook 
for  forty  minutes  longer.  Arrange  the  civet  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  over  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Roast  Leg  of  Venison. 

Remove  the  dry  skin  from  the  leg,  wipe  it  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  cover 
it  with  a  flour  and  water  paste.  Put  the  venison  in  a  baking  tin  and  roast  it 
in  a  very  hot  oven.  Baste  the  meat  continually,  cook  it  for  about  an  hour  and 
a  half,  then  remove  the  paste,  coat  it  with  butter,  and  sprinkle  it  well  with  flour. 
Cook  for  one  hour  longer,  basting  it  frequently  with  butter,  salt  and  flour. 
When  cooked  place  the  venison  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  it  with  a  sauceboatful  of 
game-sauce.  The  above  mentioned  time  is  intended  for  a  leg  weighing  about  fifteen 
pounds. 

Roasted   Venison. 

The  loin,  haunch,  saddle  or  shoulder  of  venison  may  be  roasted.  After  the 
piece  has  been  carefully  trimmed  and  freed  from  hairs,  wipe  it  with  a  wet  towel, 
season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  cover  it  with  several  thicknesses  of  buttered  paper,  or 
with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and  water,  to  retain  its  juice,  place  it  in  the  oven  and  roast 
it  twenty  minutes  for  each  pound  of  meat.  Take  off  the  paste  or  paper  and  quickly 


378  GAME. 

brown  the  venison.     If  a  frothy  appearance  is  desired,  dredge  the  meat   with   flour, 
and  baste  it  with  butter  before  browning  it.     Serve  very  hot  with  red  currant  jelly. 

Baked   Saddle    of  Venison. 

The  saddle  of  venison  is  the  double  loin.  Have  the  ribs  cut  off  close  to  use 
for  soup,  stew  or  pastry.  Wipe  all  the  hairs  off  with  a  soft  cloth  dampened  in  warm 
water,  tie  thickly-buttered  paper  over  the  upper  part  of  the  saddle,  lay  it  on  a  rack 
in  a  bakingpan  and  quickly  brown  the  joint  in  a  hot  oven;  then  remove  the  paper 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  into  the  drippingpan  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
butter,  boiling  water  and  red  currant  jelly,  and  baste  the  venison  with  this  sauce  until 
it  is  entirely  brown,  then  serve  hot  with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Saddle   of  Venison,    Polish    Style. 

Prepare  a  saddle  or  haunch  of  a  buck  (one  that  has  not  been  fattened  being  prefera- 
ble), place  in  a  stewpan,  add  two  quarts  of  cooked  marinade  stock.  Allow  it  to  re- 
main in  this  for  four  hours,  turning  it  frequently;  take  it  out,  allow  it  to  drain,  lard 
the  fillets  with  bacon,  place  it  in  a  braisingpan  and  moisten  to  half  the  height  of  the 
meat  with  broth  and  a  small  quantity  of  its  marinade.  Braise  it  on  a  moderate  fire 
and  baste  frequently.  Dish  it  up,  garnish  with  a  pile  of  round  truffles  and  two 
mushrooms  stuffed  along  the  sides,  and  a  pile  of  sourkraut  at  each  end.  Pour  over 
a  little  brown  sauce  that  has  been  prepared  with  the  meat,  and  serve  the  balance  of 
the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Roasted   Saddle   of  Venison. 

Procure  a  small  saddle  of  venison  weighing  about  five  pounds,  pare  it  neatly, 
remove  the  sinews  from  the  surface  and  lard  it  with  a  larding-needle,  tying  it  three 
times  round.  Put  into  "a  roastingpan  one  sliced  onion  and  one  sliced  carrot,  then  put 
in  the  saddle,  seasoning  with  one  pinch  of  salt;  spread  over  one-half  ounce  of  butter 
and  stand  it  in  a  brisk  oven  for  fifty  minutes,  basting  it  frequently  with  its  own 
gravy.  Untie  before  lifting  it  from  the  pan,  and  arrange  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  into 
the  pan  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  one  gill  of  white  broth,  and  let  it  come 
to  a  boil  on  the  stove.  Skim  off  the  fat,  strain  the  lean  part  over  the  saddle,  and 
serve  it  with  one-half  pint  of  hot  currant  jelly  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Roasted    Shoulder  of  Venison,    French   Style. 

Bone  and  stuff  a  shoulder  of  venison,  lard  it,  and  either  roast  or  bake  it,  protect- 
ing the  lardoons  with  several  thicknesses  of  buttered  paper.  If  the  meat  is  basted 
while  it  is  being  cooked,  take  care  not  to  baste  the  larded  part,  as  that  would  soften 
the  lardoons.  When  the  venison  is  nearly  done  season  it  with  salt  and  cayenne, 


GAME. 


379 


remove  the  buttered  paper,  brown  the  lardoons  and  then  remove  the  skins  used  to 
confine  the  stuffing,  and  serve  the  venison  hot  with  red  currant  jelly  or  any  suitable 
sauce. 

Broiled   Venison    Steaks. 

Cut  two  or  three  pounds  of  venison  into  steaks  about  one-half  inch  thick  and 
broil  them  on  a  buttered  gridiron  over  a  very  hot  fire  for  four  minutes  on  either  side. 
While  the  steaks  are  being  broiled  melt  on  a  dish  before  the  fire  equal  parts  of  red 
currant  jelly  and  butter,  one  tablespoonful  each  to  every  pound  of  venison,  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper;  place  the  steaks  on  this  when  they  are  broiled,  turn 
them  over  once,  and  serve  them  hot. 

Venison    Steaks,    Hunter's    Style. 

Procure  from  a  newly  killed  deer  a  fine  leg  of  about  five  pounds  weight,  remove 
the  bone,  cut  off  half  a  dozen  slices,  pare  and  flatten  them,  put  them  on  a  plate 
and  season  with  one  pinch  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  one-third  of  a  pinch  of  nut- 
meg and  one  tablespoonful  of  oil,  rolling  them  well.  Broil  them  for  five  minutes 
on  each  side  over  a  brisk,  clear  fire.  Dress  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  one  gill  of 
maitre  d'hotel  butter,  decorating  the  dish  with  a  small  quantity  of  watercress. 

Stewed   Venison. 

Cut  the  meat  into  fairly  small  square  pieces.  Put  about  three  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  melt  it  and  then  dredge  in  a  small  quantity  of  flour,  stirring  at  the  same 
time  to  mix  with  the  butter.  Put  in  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bacon  cut  into 
small  squares,  two  chopped  shallots,  half  a  dozen  small  onions,  two  cloves  of  garlic, 
and  a  few  mushrooms.  Put  in  the  meat,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  in  suf- 
ficient claret  and  water  mixed  in  equal  quantities  to  cover  the  whole.  Boil  the  meat 
gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  tender,  then  remove  it  from  the  stewpan,  skim  the 
fat  off  the  sauce,  remove  the  garlic,  and  boil  it  quickly  until  rather  thick  and  brown. 
Arrange  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  tne  sauce  and  other  ingredients  over  it,  and 
serve  without  delay. 

Grilled  Widgeons. 

Remove  the  heads,  neck  and  wings  from  a  brace  of  widgeons,  split  them  down 
the  back' and  truss  as  for  spatchcock.  Remove  the  breast-bones  and  rub  the  interior 
of  the  birds  with  mushroom  powder.  Put  the  trimmings  and  bones  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  gizzards  and  livers,  one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  one  wine- 
glassful  of  port  wine,  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne  to  taste,  a  small  quantity  of  brown 
stock,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Lay  the  birds  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  them 
over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  when  done  on  one  side.  When  cooked,  lay  the  birds 


380  GAME. 

on  a  hot  dish,  squeeze  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  into  the  gravy  and  strain  it  over 
them.  Serve  while  very  hot.  Mallard  or  pintail  can  be  used  in  place  of  widgeons  if 
preferred. 

Roasted   Widgeons. 

Pluck  and  singe  a  brace  of  widgeons,  cut  off  the  heads  and  claws,  draw  the  birds 
without  breaking  the  entrails  and  wipe  them  with  a  wet  cloth;  rub  them  all  over  with 
cold  butter,  dredge  them  with  flour  and  roast  them  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Care- 
fully preserve  all  the  gravy  that  flows  from  them,  and  when  nearly  done  sprinkle 
them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  at  once  with  their  gravy  and  red  currant  jelly,  or 
with  orange  essence  made  as  follows:  Chop  very  finely  two  peeled  onions  or  one 
shallot,  grate  the  yellow  rind  of  a  large  orange  and  chop  one  ounce  of  ham  or  bacon 
very  fine;  put  these  ingredients  into  a  small  saucepan,  add  to  them  a  small  sprink- 
ling of  salt  and  pepper,  one-half  pint  of  gravy  from  roasted  wild  fowl,  one  gill  of 
port  wine  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  simmer  all  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Mean- 
while squeeze  the  juice  from  a  whole  orange  and  half  a  lemon  into  a  sauceboat.  At 
the  end  of  ten  minutes  strain  the  sauce  into  the  orange  and  lemon  juice,  and  serve 
immediately. 

Broiled   Woodcocks. 

Pluck,  singe,  draw,  pick  out  the  eyes,  and  remove  the  skin  from  the  heads  of  six 
fine  woodcocks,  wipe  them  neatly,  and  split  them  through  the  backs  without  separat- 
ing the  parts.  Put  them  on  a  dish,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sweet  oil.  Roll  them  well  with  the  seasoning  and  put  them  on  to  broil 
with  the  bills  stuck  in  the  breasts.  Let  them  broil  for  four  minutes  on  each  side, 
then  arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  six  pieces  of  heart-shaped  fried  bread  covered  with 
minced  hearts  and  livers  as  for  roasted  woodcock,  spread  over  a  gill  of  maitre  h'hotel 
butter,  decorate  with  six  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Woodcock  in  Surprise. 

Roast  some  woodcock  in  a  hot  oven,  keeping  them  rather  underdone.  When 
cooked  cut  the  fillets  carefully  off  the  breasts  of  the  woodcocks,  cover  each  with 
chicken  forcemeat,  and  let  them  simmer  in  some  stock  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 
Put  as  many  dressed  cockscombs  as  there  are  fillets  in  a  little  stock,  and  warm  them. 
Put  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  fillets,  and  cockscombs 
alternately  on  them,  pour  over  some  veloute  game-sauce  and  serve. 

Fillets  of  Woodcocks,   Lucullus. 

Singe  and  draw  some  birds,  fix  them  on  a  spit  and  roast,  keeping  them  rather 
underdone.  Make  about  one-half  pound  of  chicken  forcemeat,  take  the  fillets  off  the 
birds,  spread  them  over  with  the  forcemeat,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  lay  them  in 


GAME.  381 

a  buttered  sautepan,  pour  in  sufficient  white  stock  to  cover  them,  and  boil  gently  for 
a  few  minutes.  Chop  the  flesh  off  the  legs  and  the  trails,  put  it  in  a  mortar,  pound 
and  pass  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  the  pounded  meat  in  a  saucepan  with  one  and 
one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  game-sauce  (which  can  be  made  from  the  bones  of  the 
birds)  and  boil  it  till  thick,  move  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  stir  in  thebeaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs.  Arrange  the  fillets  of  woodcocks  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  alter- 
nating each  with  a  crouton  of  fried  bread,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  middle  of  the  dish, 
and  serve. 

Fillets    of  Woodcock  on  Toast. 

Separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones  of  some  woodcocks,  trim  them  neatly,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  brush  over  with  warmed  butter.  Chop  the  trails  of  the 
birds  and  mix  them  with  some  chopped  parsley,  shallots  and  scraped  bacon,  and 
season  the  mixture  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  some  crusts  of  bread  longer  than  the 
fillets,  make  some  deep  slits  down  the  edges,  fry  them  in  butter,  then  scoop  out  the 
crumb.  Fill  the  crusts  with  the  chopped  trail  mixture  and  bake  them.  Put  the  fillets 
of  woodcocks  in  a  fryingpan  with  some  butter  and  fry  them.  Mix  some  meat  glaze 
with  some  stock  that  should  have  been  made  with  the  pounded  carcass  of  the  birds. 
When  cooked  place  the  crusts  on  a  hot  dish,  put  a  fillet  on  each  crust,  and  serve  them 
with  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Fillets  of  Woodcock  with   Truffle  Puree. 

Separate  the  fillets  from  the  bones  of  the  birds,  trim,  and  put  them  in  a  frying- 
pan,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  baste  with  a  little  warmed  butter.  Stud 
each  of  the  minion  fillets  with  a  small  square  of  truffle,  lay  them  in  a  bakingdish 
with  a  small  lump  of  butter,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  the 
oven.  Fry  the  large  fillets  over  a  moderate  fire.  Fix  a  croustade  in  the  center  of  a 
hot  dish  and  fill  it  with  truffle  puree.  Arrange  the  large  fillets  when  cooked  in  a 
circle  round  the  croustade,  then  place  the  minion  fillets  around  them.  Pour  over  the 
fillets  some  essence  of  woodcocks  that  have  been  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  half 
glaze,  and  serve  then. 

Woodcocks  in  Croustades. 

Singe  and  bone  some  woodcocks  and  sprinkle  them  inwardly  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Break  the  back  and  bones  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump 
of  butter,  and  fry  them  over  a  clear  fire  till  browned,  and  then  cover  them  with  white 
wine  and  broth  and  let  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain  the  liquor  off  the  bones 
into  another  stewpan,  boil  it  till  reduced  to  half  glaze,  then  thicken  it  with  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sauce.  Put  the  trails  of  the  woodcocks  and  five  or  six 
chickens'  livers  in  a  fryingpan  with  some  bacon  fat  and  fry  them  quickly;  add  salt 
and  pepper,  leave  till  cool,  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  half  their  quantity  of 


382  GAME. 

chopped  bacon  and  the  same  of  panada.  Mix  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  raw 
truffles  with  the  above  mixture  and  stuff  the  birds  with  it,  roll  one  bird  to  a  round 
shape  and  the  remainder  to  an  oval  shape,  fastening  them  securely  with  twine.  Place 
two  or  three  rashers  of  bacon  and  some  sliced  vegetables,  such  as  carrots,  turnips  and 
onions,  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  birds,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  them, 
pour  in  to  half  their  height  some  white  wine  and  broth  mixed  in  equal  quantities,  put 
the  lid  on  the  pan  and  braise  the  birds.  Cut  as  many  small  croustades  of  bread  as 
there  are  birds,  shaping  one  round  and  the  rest  oval,  make  a  cut  round  on  the  upper 
surface  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  fry  them  in  fat  till  nicely  browned.  When 
done,  drain,  scoop  them  out,  and  spread  a  thin  layer  of  game  quenelle  forcemeat  all 
over  the  insides.  Put  the  croustades  in  the  oven  and  bake  them  till  the  forcemeat 
has  set.  When  done,  fit  the  birds  in  the  bread  cases  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 
Arrange  the  croustades  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper  that  has  been  placed  on  a  hot 
dish,  putting  the  oval-shaped  ones  all  round  and  the  round  one  in  the  center,  and 
serve  while  hot. 


Woodcocks,   Minute   Style. 


Put  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  small  fryingpan  over  a  good  fire,  add  some  shred 
shallots,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg;  when  the  butter  is  quite  hot  put 
a  brace  of  woodcocks  into  the  pan,  fry  them  for  seven  or  eight  minutes,  and  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  white  wine,  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  some  raspings  of 
crusts  of  bread;  let  the  woodcocks  remain  in  the  pan  till  the  sauce  has  boiled  up 
once,  then  put  the  birds  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them  and  serve  at  once. 


Woodcocks,    Perigueux. 


Truss  some  woodcocks,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  on 
top,  pour  in  one  pint  of  mirepoix  and  one-half  pint  of  Madeira,  and  cook  over  a  slow 
fire.  Boil  some  perigueux  sauce  together  with  the  extract  of  woodcocks  till  reduced. 
When  done,  drain  the  birds,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over  them,  and 
serve. 

Roasted  Woodcocks. 

Truss  the  required  quantity  of  woodcocks  without  drawing  them,  fastening  the 
legs  close  to  the  body  with  an  iron  skewer.  Toast  as  many  slices  of  bread  as  there 
are  woodcocks.  Roast  the  woodcocks  in  a  good  oven.  Lay  a  slice  of  toast  in  a 
drippingpan  under  each  bird  to  catch  the  trail,  and  let  them  roast  for  thirty  minutes. 
They  should  be  rather  underdone.  While  they  are  roasting  baste  them  with  butter. 
When  sufficiently  cooked  lay  the  pieces  of  toast  on  a  hot  dish  and  put  one  of  the 
birds  on  each,  pour  a  little  beef  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  serve  some  more  in  a  sauce 
tureen.  Garnish  the  dish  with  thin  slices  of  lemon  and  watercress. 


GAME.  383 

Salmi  of  Woodcock. 

Split  three  woodcocks  lengthwise  down  the  back,  then  divide  them  into  joints, 
and  lay  them  aside  on  a  dish.  Bruise  the  livers  and  trails  of  the  birds,  lay  them  on 
the  dish  with  the  birds,  strew  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-minced  lemon  peel  over, 
and  dust  with  salt,  white  pepper,  a  little  cayenne,  grated  nutmeg,  and  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  French  mustard ;  moisten  with  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  the  strained 
juice  of  four  lemons.  Put  the  dish  in  the  oven,  and  turn  the  contents  about  occasion- 
ally so  that  they  may  be  well  seasoned.  When  very  hot  take  the  dish  (which  should 
be  of  silver)  out  of  the  oven,  pour  a  few  drops  of  olive  oil  over  the  salmis,  stir  it 
about  a  little,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Broiled   Woodhens. 

Draw  the  birds,  and  truss  them  with  their  legs  tucked  into  the  body  ;  singe,  and 
split  them  into  halves  lengthwise,  beat  each  piece  lightly,  season  and  brush  them  over 
with  clarified  butter,  and  coat  them  with  breadcrumbs.  Grease  a  gridiron,  heat  it, 
put  the  pieces  of  birds  on  it,  and  broil  over  a  clear  but  moderate  fire ;  turn  to 
brown  both  sides.  When  done  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  them  with  parsley, 
and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  cold  tartar  sauce. 

Woodhens,   Russian  Style. 

Singe  and  truss  the  birds  as  for  roasting,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  them  over  a  moderate  fire  till  nicely 
browned.  Pour  a  small  quantity  of  cream  over  the  birds,  and  finish  cooking  them, 
basting  frequently  with  it.  When  cooked,  drain  the  birds,  and  arrange  them  on  a 
dish  that  will  bear  the  heat  of  the  oven.  Mix  about  one  breakfast  cupful  of  bechamel 
sauce  with  the  cooking  sauce  of  the  birds,  and  boil  it  till  reduced  to  a  thick  consist- 
ency. Pour  the  sauce  over  the  birds,  cover  them  thickly  with  breadcrumbs  and  place 
the  dish  in  the  oven.  When  the  breadcrumbs  are  browned,  remove  from  the  oven, 
garnish  with  watercress  and  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve. 


Cold  Dishes. 

Tenderloin   of  Beef  in  Aspic. 

Trim  well  a  small  tenderloin  of  beef  and  make  a  deep  incision  down  the  thin 
side.  Chop  fine  some  lean  veal,  passing  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  returning  it  to 
the  mortar,  and  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped  beef  suet  and  about  a  third 
that  amount  of  panada;  pound  well  together  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated 
nutmeg,  bind  it  together  with  beaten  eggs,  and  mix  in  some  truffles,  beef  tongue  and 
whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  all  cut  into  small  slices.  Stuff  the  tenderloin  with  the 
forcemeat;  cover  it  first  with  slices  of  celery,  then  with  cooked  ham,  and  lastly  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and  tie  up.  Place  the  beef  in  a  braisingpan  with  two  calves' 
feet  and  some  stock,  and  stew  the  meat  two  or  three  hours  and  until  tender  over  a 
slow  fire.  When  cooked,  take  the  beef  out  of  the  liquor  and  leave  it  until  quite  cold. 
Strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin  and  leave  it  until  it  is  set; 
strain  off  all  fat,  and  rub  it  over  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  hot  water  to  remove  all  traces 
of  grease;  clarify  the  liquor  and  pass  through  a  silk  sieve.  Pour  a  small  quantity  of 
the  liquor  into  a  mould  which  will  hold  the  tenderloin,  and  place  on  ice  until  thor- 
oughly set.  Trim  it  at  both  ends,  and  cut  some  small  pieces  of  hard-boiled  eggs, 
tongue  and  truffles,  which  arrange  in  tasteful  designs  on  the  set  jelly;  pour  in  enough 
of  the  jelly  stock  to  cover  them,  and  allow  it  to  become  quite  firm;  then  lay  the 
tenderloin  on  the  jelly,  the  top  turned  downward,  and  pour  in  the  balance  of  the 
clarified  liquor.  When  ready  for  serving,  dip  the  mould  into  tepid  water  to  loosen 
the  jelly  at  the  sides,  wipe,  and  turn  the  contents  onto  a  dish,  garnishing  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Beef  Tongue  in   Aspic  Jelly. 

Trim  off  the  roots  of  a  skinned  cold  boiled  tongue,  either  fresh  or  salted.  Pack 
a  half-gallon  mould  in  ice,  pour  in  a  little  warmed  aspic  jelly  to  cover  the  bottom  to 
about  one  inch  in  depth,  let  it  set,  garnish  with  beet-root  cut  in  various  shapes,  pour 
over  a  little  more  aspic  to  set  them,  place  the  tongue  upside  down  on  top,  pour  over 
one  teacupful  more  of  the  jelly  to  fix  the  tongue  in  its  place,  then  fill  up  the  mould 
with  jelly,  and  let  it  remain  till  set  and  quite  firm.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  garnish 
with  parsley  and  pickles,  and  serve.  Pickled  beet-root  should  be  used  if  possible. 

Aspic   of  Crayfish   with   Salad. 

Incrust  a  plain  border  mould  in  ice,  and  have  prepared  sufficient  warm  aspic  jelly 
to  fill  it.  Cut  some  truffles  in  halves  and  dip  them  in  the  jelly,  also  an  equal  number 

384 


COLD  DISHES.  385 

of  crayfish  tails,  and  as  each  one  is  dipped  stick  them  round  the  interior  of  the  mould 
alternately.  Chop  up  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  stir  it  into  the  jelly,  pouring  it 
immediately  into  the  border  mould.  When  cold,  turn  the  border  out  onto  a  dish, 
after  having  dipped  the  mould  for  an  instant  in  hot  water.  Fill  the  center  of  the 
border  with  shredded  lettuce  mixed  with  a  thick  mayonnaise,  and  pile  this  up  so  that 
the  crayfish  tails  may  be  arranged  around  and  also  cover  it  in  rows.  The  dish  may 
be  garnished  with  coarsely-chopped  aspic  and  a  few  pieces  placed  on  the  top. 

Chicken    Cutlets   in   Aspic. 

Cut  off  the  fillets  from  two  chickens,  contise  the  minions  or  small  fillets  with 
truffles;  put  them  all  into  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter,  cover  with  paper,  place  a 
tin  with  a  weight  on  the  top  of  them  to  keep  it  flat,  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  and  cook 
without  allowing  them  to  take  color.  Remove  to  cool  thoroughly,  cut  each  large 
fillet  first  crosswise  in  halves  and  then  lengthwise,  and  trim  them  in  the  shape 
of  cutlets.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  breakfast  cupful  of  bechamel  sauce  to  warm, 
and  dissolve  in  it  one  teacupful  of  aspic  jelly  and  a  little  chicken  glaze;  then  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  mix  well  together,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  sieve  over 
a  basin  packed  in  ice,  stir  it  well  until  it  thickens  and  mask  all  the  cutlets  with  it 
before  it  is  quite  cold.  Decorate  the  cutlets  with  various  designs  stamped  out  in 
cooked  truffles  and  tongue,  and  trim  the  minion  fillets.  Pour  a  little  of  the  jelly  at 
the  bottom  of  a  mould  packed  in  ice,  arrange  the  minion  fillets  on  it,  cover  over  with 
a  little  more  of  the  jelly,  then  place  the  cutlet-shaped  pieces  round  the  sides  of  the 
mould  with  the  plain  side  inwards,  and  let  them  set;  fill  the  mould  up  with  the 
remainder  of  the  jelly.  Turn  the  jelly  out  on  a  dish  and  serve  with  a  garnish 
of  pieces  of  colored  aspic  intermixed  with  finely-chopped  lettuce  leaves. 

Chicken    Fillets  with   Aspic  Jelly. 

Take  six  good-sized  chicken  fillets,  cut  off  the  minion  fillets  and  the  thin  skin  of 
the  larger  ones,  form  these  into  equal  shapes  and  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  a 
little  butter,  giving  them  a  slightly  curved  inclination  when  in  the  pan,  pour  over  a 
little  more  butter,  cover  with  paper,  and  cook  them  until  quite  done.  Take  the 
minion  fillets,  trim  and  contise  them  with  a  few  small  pieces  of  cooked  beef  tongue; 
put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter  to  cook,  giving  them  a  curved  shape  in 
the  pan.  In  the  meantime  put  a  circular  rice  socle  on  a  dish,  mask  it  with  Montpelier 
butter,  and  again  on  its  center  place  a  small  socle  two  inches  in  diameter  and  three 
and  a  half  inches  in  height,  and  mask  this  again  with  more  Montpelier  butter.  Take 
the  fillets  out  of  the  pan  when  done,  place  them  on  a  strainer  to  drain,  and  put  them 
when  they  are  perfectly  cold  into  hot  chicken  chaudfroid  sauce,  and  then  when  they 
are  cold  put  them  on  a  dish  on  the  larger  rice  socle,  leaning  against  the  smaller  one, 


386  COLD  DISHES. 

with  a  truffle  cut  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  of  the  size  of  the  end  of  the  fillets 
placed  between  them.  Garnish  the  top  of  the  socle  with  chopped  aspic  jelly,  and 
serve. 


Game   in   Aspic  Jelly. 


Put  into  a  saucepan  two  pounds  of .  knuckle  of  veal,  one  lean  slice  of  ham, 
a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  couple  of  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a  dozen  white  peppercorns,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  shallot  chopped  up  fine;  pour  over  three  pints  of  cold 
water,  put  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  simmer  until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one 
pint,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve  and  let  it  stand  all  night;  next  day  remove  all  the 
fat.  Put  one  ounce  of  isinglass  into  a  basin,  pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of  cold  water 
and  let  it  soak  three  hours;  then  pour  over  it  nearly  one  quart  of  boiling  water, 
stirring  it  quickly  until  it  is  quite  dissolved.  Add  the  veal  gravy  which  should  be  a 
stiff  jelly,  and  when  this  also  is  dissolved,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  each  of  lemon  juice  and  red  currant  jelly  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water 
and  strained  through  muslin.  Keep  stirring  until  all  of  these  are  thoroughly  mixed, 
then  strain  through  a  jelly  bag  without  squeezing  or  shaking.  Have  ready  some  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices,  and  some  slices  of  cold  roasted  game  sprinkled  with  a  little 
salt.  Wet  the  inside  of  a  mould  with  cold  water,  pour  in  a  thin  layer  of  jelly,  and 
when  it  stiffens,  lay  over  it  rings  or  slices  of  the  egg  overlapping  one  another  like  a 
chain,  then  pour  in  more  jelly.  When  stiff  enough,  lay  over  slices  of  meat,  then 
more  jelly,  and  so  on  until  the  mould  is  quite  full.  Let  it  stand  all  night,  and  serve 
next  day. 


Goose   in   Aspic  Jelly. 


Cut  up  three  calves'  feet,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  boil 
until  the  flesh  leaves  the  bones.  Singe,  draw  and  clean  a  goose,  put  it  into  a  saucepan, 
strain  the  liquor  of  the  feet  over  it,  put  in  two  or  three  small  onions,  two  bay  leaves, 
a  small  bunch  of  thyme,  basil  and  tarragon,  a  teaspoonful  of  bruised  allspice,  three  or 
four  cloves  and  half  a  lemon.  Pour  in  more  water  to  bring  the  liquor  nearly  to  the 
height  of  the  goose,  put  the  lid  on  the  stewpan  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  the 
liquor  boils ;  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  simmer  until  the  goose  is  tender.  When 
cooked,  take  the  goose  out  of  the  saucepan,  cut  the  meat  off  in  slices,  put  the  bones 
back  into  the  liquor  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes  longer.  Dust  a  small  quantity  of 
cayenne  pepper  into  the  liquor,  give  it  a  sharp  flavor  by  adding  lemon  juice  or  vine- 
gar, strain  through  a  jelly  bag  until  clear  and  skim  off  all  the  fat.  Pour  a  thin  layer 
of  the  jelly  into  a  rather  shallow  mould,  leave  it  to  set,  then  arrange  on  it  pieces  of 
beetroot  cut  in  various  shapes,  the  whites  and  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced  sep- 
arately, and  a  few  green  pickles.  Pour  carefully  over  these  another  thin  layer  of 
the  jelly  and  leave  it  until  firm.  Arrange  the  slices  of  goose  on  top  of  the  jelly, 
then  pour  in  carefully  the  remainder.  Pack  the  mould  in  ice  or  stand  it  in  a  cool 


COLD  DISHES.  387 

place  until  the   contents   are  quite  firm.     Before  serving,   dip  the   mould  in    tepid 
water,  wipe  it,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  dish,  and  garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Goose's   Fat   Liver  in   Aspic. 

Take  the  required  number  of  fat  livers  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  cayenne  and 
salt  and  roll  them  into  balls,  mask  them  in  bechamel  sauce  mixed  in  a  little  warmed 
aspic  and  decorate  with  slices  of  cooked  black  truffles  cut  in  various  ornamental 
designs.  Put  as  many  small  moulds  as  there  are  balls  of  fat  livers  on  ice,  pour  in  a 
little  warmed  aspic  jelly,  let  it  set  firm,  put  in  the  fat  livers  carefully  so  as  not  to  dis- 
turb the  decorations,  fill  up  the  moulds  with  more  of  the  warmed  aspic  jelly,  and  let 
them  set.  Chop  up  fine  a  few  lettuce  leaves,  mix  them  with  oil  and  a  slight  sea 
soning  of  salt  and  pepper,  put  a  layer  of  this  on  a  dish,  turn  the  contents  of  the 
moulds  onto  it,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of  shapes  of  colored  aspic  jelly  put  round 
the  base  of  them. 

Cold   Boiled   Ham  with   Aspic  Jelly. 

Choose  a  freshly  smoked  ham,  trim  off  the  end  of  the  knuckle-bone,  and  after 
having  soaked  it  for  a  few  hours,  boil  it  for  three  and  a  half  hours,  then  take  the 
kettle  off  the  fire  and  let  the  ham  remain  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  its  liquor. 
Then  remove,  drain  it,  cut  the  thigh-bone  short,  wrap  it  tightly  in  a  cloth,  and  let  it 
cool.  When  ready  to  serve,  remove  the  cloth,  peel  off  the  rind,  excepting  at  the 
knuckle-end,  trim  it  neatly,  glaze,  fix  a  ruffle  on  the  knuckle-bone,  place  a  white 
paper  on  a  dish,  set  ihe  ham  on  it  and  garnish  the  base  with  chopped  aspic  jelly  and 
truffles. 

Lamb    Cutlets   in   Aspic  Jelly. 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with  slices  of  bacon,  onions  and  sliced  carrots; 
trim  a  few  cutlets,  place  them  in  the  stewpan  with  a  few  cloves  and  peppercorns,  half 
a  blade  of  mace  and  two  or  three  sprigs  of  parsley.  Moisten  with  one  wineglassful 
of  sherry  and  sufficient  clear  stock  to  cover  them,  and  leaving  the  lid  on,  simmer  at 
the  side  of  the  fire.  When  tender  leave  the  cutlets  in  their  cooking  liquor  until  they 
are  half  cold,  then  drain,  place  them  between  two  plates  and  put  a  weight  on  the  top. 
When  quite  cold  trim  the  cutlets  neatly,  pour  a  layer  of  liquid  aspic  jelly  into  a 
vessel,  and  when  it  is  set  lay  the  cutlets  upon  it  and  cover  with  another  layer  of  jelly, 
placing  the  pan  on  the  ice  to  cool.  After  the  jelly  is  quite  cold  and  firm  procure  a 
tin  cutter  the  shape  of  a  cutlet  and  stamp  the  cutlets  out  with  it,  dipping  it  continu- 
ally in  hot  water.  Boil  until  cooked  some  young  green  peas,  then  drain  off  the 
water,  put  a  little  jelly  in  with  them  and  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  two  until 
well  covered  with  it.  Place  a  circle  of  chopped  jelly  on  a  dish,  arrange  the  cutlets 
on  it  and  pour  the  peas  into  the  center.  Garnish  round  the  cutlets  with  croutons  of 
aspfc  jelly,  and  serve. 


388  COLD  DISHES. 


Aspic  of  Lobster. 


Cut  some  broiled  lobster  tails  in  slices,  put  them  in  a  basin,  dust  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  squeeze  in  a  little  lemon  juice.  Put  a  thin  layer  of  aspic  jelly  in  a  plain 
cylinder  mould,  garnish  it  with  some  hard-boiled  eggs  and  lobster  spawn  and  allow 
to  set,  then  pour  in  another  layer  of  aspic  jelly  one-fourth  inch  thick,  spread  a  layer 
of  montpellier  butter  one-fourth  inch  thick  on  a  baking-sheet  and  on  another  baking- 
sheet  spread  another  layer  of  lobster  butter  one-fourth  inch  thick  and  stand  them 
both  on  ice.  Cut  both  butters  when  quite  firm  with  a  round  tin  cutter  to  the  size  of 
the  lobster  slices.  Arrange  alternately  in  a  circle  the  lobster  slices  and  montpellier 
butter  in  the  cylinder  mould,  pour  in  sufficient  aspic  to  reach  one-fourth  of  an  inch 
above  them  and  leave  till  set;  then  arrange  a  circle  of  lobster  slices  and  lobster  but- 
ter, dressing  them  the  reverse  to  the  first  circle,  pour  in  more  aspic  jelly,  and  when 
set  continue  the  alternate  circles  of  butter  and  lobster  slices.  When  the  mould  is  full 
cover  it  with  a  baking-sheet,  pack  it  in  ice  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  two  hours  or 
more.  Prepare  a  rice  socle  on  a  dish,  mask  it  with  lobster  butter,  turn  the  aspic  out 
of  the  mould  onto  it,  garnish  with  chopped  jelly  and  croutons  of  jelly,  and  serve. 


Aspic   of  Oysters. 


Put  three  or  four  dozen  large  oysters  into  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  white  wine  or 
sherry  to  cover  them  and  let  cook  gently  until  firm.  Drain,  trim,  put  them  in  a 
basin  and  season  with  a  little  salt  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  squeezed  over.  Set  a 
mould  in  a  box  or  tin  of  powdered  ice  and  pour  in  a  thin  layer  of  warmed  jelly.  Let 
this  set  and  then  lay  oysters  symmetrically  over  it  to  within  one-fourth  inch  of  the 
edge  all  round.  Pour  over  sufficient  aspic  to  cover  these  and  allow  it  to  set  and  then 
repeat  the  layer  of  oysters  until  the  mould  is  quite  full,  taking  care  that  the  aspic 
shall  cover  the  last  layer  of  oysters  without  overflowing.  Allow  this  to  stand  for  an 
hour  in  the  ice  and  then  dip  the  mould  into  hot  water,  removing  quickly,  and  then 
turn  out  onto  a  cold  dish.  Garnish  round  with  chopped  aspic  jelly  or  ornament  with 
croutons  of  aspic  in  two  or  three  colors  of  brown,  red  and  yellow.  Serve  with  a  rich 
mayonnaise  sauce. 

Aspic   of  Partridges. 

Cut  the  fillets  off  the  breast  of  a  couple  of  partridges,  season  each  fillet  with 
salt  and  pepper,  lay  them  in  a  buttered  bakingdish,  cover  them  with  a  sheet  of  but- 
tered paper,  and  bake  them.  When  the  fillets  are  cooked  put  them  between  two 
plates  with  a  weight  on  top  and  leave  until  cold.  Roast  the  remainder  of  the  birds, 
cut  off  all  the  flesh,  chop  it  up,  put  it  in  a  mortar  with  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped 
lean  veal  and  the  same  each  of  butter  and  breadcrumbs  that  have  been  moistened 
with  stock,  and  squeezed  almost  dry.  Pound  the  mixture  until  quite  smooth,  then 
mix  with  it  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  sweet  herbs,  the  white  of  one  egg  and  yolks 


COLD  DISHES.  389 

of  two,  and  a  small  quantity  of  game  stock.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Butter  a  plain  mould,  turn  the  mixture  into  it, 
and  steam  for  half  an  hour.  Turn  the  forcemeat  out  of  the  mould  and  leave  it  until 
cold;  then  cut  it  into  slices,  and  then  the  fillets  into  rounds  of  one  size  and  thickness. 
Slice  some  cooked  truffles,  and  some  hard-boiled  white  of  egg.  Pour  a  thin  layer  of 
aspic  liquid  jelly  into  a  plain  mould,  and  leave  it  until  it  begins  to  set ;  then  arrange 
tastefully  over  it  some  of  the  above  ingredients,  pour  in  another  layer  of  the  jelly, 
then  another  layer  of  the  meat,  etc.,  and  jelly  again  alternately  until  the  mould  is 
full.  Place  the  mould  in  the  ice-box  or  other  cool  place.  When  the  jelly  is  firm 
turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish,  garnished  with  sprigs  of  well  washed 
parsley,  chopped  aspic,  and  halves  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve. 


Pigeons   in   Aspic  Jelly. 


Wash  and  truss  twelve  pigeons,  put  them  in  a  large  saucepan  with  four  pounds 
of  the  shank  of  veal,  one  onion  that  has  been  fried,  one  stick  of  celery,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  five  or  six  cloves,  two  dozen  peppercorns,  and  four  and  one-half  quarts 
of  water.  Bring  to  a  boil,  and  cook  over  a  slow  fire  for  three  hours,  adding  at  the 
end  of  the  first  hour  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt.  When  ready,  take  the  pigeons  out 
carefully  so  as  not  to  break  them,  and  remove  the  strings.  Place  the  pan  over  a 
quick  fire  and  boil  rapidly  for  forty  minutes ;  then  strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve,  adding  more  seasoning  if  necessary.  The  liquor  should  be  reduced  to  two 
and  one-half  quarts  during  boiling.  Have  two  large  moulds  that  will  hold  six 
pigeons  each,  pour  a  little  liquor  into  each,  and  set  them  on  ice  to  harden.  Ar- 
range the  birds  on  the  set  jelly,  cover  them  with  the  liquor,  which  must  be  cooled  but 
not  hardened,  and  set  the  moulds  in  the  ice-box  for  twelve  hours.  When  ready  to 
serve,  dip  the  moulds  in.tepid  water,  wipe  them,  and  turn  the  contents  on  a  cold  dish. 
Garnish  round  the  dish  with  chopped  jelly  slices  of  pickled  beet-root,  and  some 
nicely  picked  sprays  of  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  Tartar  sauce. 


Pike   With   Aspic  Jelly. 


Thoroughly  clean  a  pike,  stuff  it  with  some  rather  stiff  fish  forcemeat,  sew  it 
up,  wrap  it  in  a  cloth  and  boil  it  in  court  bouillon  and  white  wine.  When  cooked, 
leave  the  fish  in  its  cooking  liquor  till  cold,  then  take  it  out,  remove  the  cloth,  put  it 
belly  downwards  on  the  drainer  of  the  fish-kettle  and  leave  it  for  some  time  to  make 
sure  of  its  being  thoroughly  drained.  Trim  the  skin  off  the  thickest  part  of  its  body, 
cut  the  flesh  into  slices,  which  put  back  again  in  shape,  then  glaze  the  fish  with  aspic 
jelly.  Put  the  pike  on  an  oval  dish,  propping  it  up  on  both  sides  with  pieces  of 
bread;  surround  it  first  with  aspic  jelly,  then  with  hard-boiled  eggs  and  small  crou- 
tons of  aspic  jelly,  arranged  alternately.  Garnish  four  attelette  skewers,  each  with 
one  truffle  and  one  quenelle  and  one  with  a  truffle  and  two  crayfish,  one  of  which 


390  COLD  DISHES. 

should  be  smaller  than  the  other  and  placed  next  the  truffle.  Stick  the  crayfish 
skewer  in  the  middle  of  the  pike's  back  and  place  the  others  two  on  each  side.  The 
dish  containing  the  fish  should  be  placed  on  an  ornamented  stand. 

Prawns  in   Aspic. 

Place  in  the  bottom  of  a  mould  packed  in  ice,  a  little  slightly  warmed  aspic 
jelly,  decorate  it  with  a  little  lobster  coral,  chopped  white  of  hard-boiled  eggs  rubbed 
through  a  sieve  and  cover  this  over  with  some  more  of  the  jelly  and  prawns  and  fill 
up  the  mould  with  the  jelly.  When  it  has  become  firmly  set,  turn  out  onto  a  dish, 
garnish  with  wedge-shaped  croutons  of  aspic  jelly  and  small  quantities  of  lettuce 
finely-chopped,  surmounted  by  prawns  in  their  shells. 

Aspic   of  Quails,   Empress. 

Select  half  a  dozen  prime  quails,  or  as  many  as  may  be  required,  truss  and  lard 
them  as  for  roasting,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  containing  four  ounces  of  lean  ham, 
half  a  dozen  allspice  and  blade  of  mace,  two  or  three  bay  leaves,  a  small  carrot,  a 
chopped  onion  and  a  small  quantity  of  thyme  and  parsley;  moisten  with  one  pint  of 
chicken  stock  and  one  wineglassful  of  sherry.  Put  on  a  tight-fitting  cover  and  let 
them  simmer  gently  until  thoroughly  cooked.  When  done,  remove  the  stewpan  from 
the  stove  and  allow  the  quails  to  remain  in  the  liquor  until  cold.  Then  remove  and 
wipe  them  on  a  clean  cloth ;  cut  each  quail  into  halves  and  fill  up  the  interior  with 
foies  gras,  dip  each  half  into  reduced  supreme  sauce,  and  just  before  they  com- 
mence to  set,  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  black  truffles  and  tongue.  When  set, 
place  them  upon  a  flat  dish,  allowing  plenty  of  room  in  between  them,  pour  over  a 
small  quantity  of  liquid  aspic  jelly,  repeating  it  until  the  quails  have  a  thick  coating 
over  them ;  place  them  upon  the  ice  so  as  to  get  them  thoroughly  set.  Just  before 
they  are  wanted  for  the  table,  trim  them  round  carefully  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  dish 
them  upon  a  cone  of  rice  which  has  been  previously  prepared,  garnish  in  the  center 
with  a  garnishing  of  cockscombs  and  small  truffles,  place  round  the  base  croutons  of 
aspic  with  chopped  red  aspic  in  between,  and  serve. 

Salmon   with   Aspic  Jelly. 

Singe  and  cut  into  halves  lengthwise  two  calves'  feet,  bone  them,  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  some  water  and  boil  them  gently  over  a  slow  fire.  Pass  the  liquor  of 
the  feet  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin,  skim  off  the  fat  and  leave  it  to  settle. 
Boil  a  thick  slice  of  salmon  in  some  court  bouillon  and  wine,  and  when  cooked  leave 
it  until  cold  in  its  liquor.  Put  half  of  the  calves'  feet  liquor  into  a  saucepan  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  salmon,  add  some  chopped  vegetables,  a 
few  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  cloves  and 
peppercorns,  two  teacupfuls  of  vinegar,  one-half  teacupful  of  water  and  three  well- 


COLD  DISHES. 


39 * 


beaten  whites  of  eggs.  Stir  the  above  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  boil, 
then  move  it  to  the  edge  of  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  simmer  until  the  jelly  is  clear. 
Strain  the  jelly  through  a  jelly-bag  into  a  basin  and  leave  it  until  cold.  Place  the 
slices  of  salmon  in  a  deep  dish,  distribute  the  jelly  over  it  piling  it  in  the  center,  and 
keep  it  in  a  cold  temperature  for  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  hours.  Garnish  with  jelly 
croutons,  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves  and  yolks,  and  then  serve. 

Aspic  of  Fillets   of  Soles. 

Fillet  the  soles,  butter  a  baking-dish,  put  in  the  fillets,  squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice 
over  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  cover  the  fillets  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper 
and  bake  them  for  ten  minutes  in  the  oven.  When  cooked  press  the  soles  between 
two  plates  till  cold.  Put  a  layer  of  plain  aspic  jelly  into  a  mould  and  leave  till  set. 
Cut  the  fillets  of  soles  into  small  equal-sized  rounds,  and  arrange  them  tastefully  with 
some  fillets  of  anchovies  on  the  set  aspic  jelly.  Sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley  over 
them  and  cover  with  another  layer  of  aspic  jelly.  Proceed  in  this  manner,  putting 
alternate  layers  of  sole  and  aspic  until  the  mould  is  full,  then  pack  it  in  pounded  ice. 
Turn  the  aspic  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish,  stick  some  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  on 
it  with  ravigote  butter,  and  serve. 

Aspic   of  Trout. 

Clean  a  good-sized  fresh  trout,  draw  it  by  the  gills,  wipe  it  inwardly,  stuff  it  with 
fish  forcemeat  and  truss  the  head.  Place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  broth  to 
cover  it  and  boil  until  it  is  done.  Have  in  readiness  a  piece  of  fried  bread  of  an  oval 
shape  and  the  length  of  the  fish  and  place  it  on  a  dish  of  the  same  shape.  Allow  the 
trout  to  get  cold,  draining  it  on  a  sieve  and  wipe  it  well  with  a  cloth;  cover  over  the 
bread  with  paper,  put  the  fish  on  the  top,  supporting  it  with  butter,  glaze  it  with  half- 
set  aspic  jelly,  surround  it  with  chopped  jelly,  and  decorate  the  edge  of  the  jelly  with 
croutons  of  jelly.  Garnish  the  base  of  the  support  with  halves  of  hard-boiled  eggs, 
interspersed  with  small  lettuces  cut  in  halves,  and  serve  with  mayonnaise  sauce  in  a 
sauceboat. 


Ballotines   of   Partridges. 


Bone  the  birds  carefully,  lay  them  open  and  dust  them  over  with  salt,  pepper 
and  powdered  sweet  herbs.  Prepare  a  sufficient  quantity  of  forcemeat  with  poultry 
livers,  bacon,  shallots  and  sweet  herbs  and  season  it  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Line  the  inside  of  the  birds  with  the  forcemeat,  then  lay  over  that  a  few  thin  strips 
of  cold  tongue,  blanched  pistachio  nuts  and  cooked  truffles.  Roll  the  birds  up  tightly, 
bind  each  one  in  a  separate  piece  of  cloth,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  moisten  to  their 
height  with  stock,  and  boil  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  the  birds,  remove  the 
cloths,  bind  them  up  again  tightly,  put  them  between  two  dishes  with  a  moderate 


392 


COLD  DISHES. 


weight  on  the  top,  and  leave  until  quite  cold.  When  ready  unbind  the  birds,  trim 
them  neatly  and  brush  them  over  with  liquid  glaze.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  or  a 
fancy  dish-paper  over  a  dish,  lay  the  birds  on  it,  garnish  them  with  croutons  of  aspic 
jelly  or  a  circle  of  chopped  jelly,  and  serve. 


Boned   Chicken    Garnished   With  Jelly. 

Pluck  a  large  chicken,  singe  and  clean  it  thoroughly,  bone  it  and  remove  the 
legs  and  wings.  Cut  the  flesh  from  the  wings  into  dice  and  chop  the  meat  from 
the  legs;  put  the  latter  into  a  mortar  with  half  a  pound  each  of  finely-chopped 
lean  veal  and  bacon,  pound  it  to  a  pulp,  season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt  and 
spices  and  rub  through  a  sieve;  now  add  to  the  meat  from  the  wings  four  to  five 
ounces  of  parboiled  bacon  and  three  large  uncooked  truffles,  all  cut  into  dice. 
Lay  the  fowl  flat  on  a  board  with  the  skin-side  downward,  season  to  taste,  put  in  the 
forcemeat,  roll  up  the  galantine  making  it  as  long  as  possible,  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth 
and  boil  in  stock  for  one  and  a  half  hours.  Take  it  out,  remove  the  cloth,  tie  it 
up  in  a  clean  one  and  let  it  get  cold;  then  remove  this  cloth,  cut  the  galantine  into 
slices,  brush  them  over  with  glaze  and  let  them  get  cold  and  firm.  Put  a  bread  sup- 
port in  the  center  of  a  dish,  pile  chopped  fowl  jelly  onto  it,  lay  the  slices  of 
galantine  around,  garnish  the  base  of  the  support  with  croutons  and  chopped  jelly 
alternately. 

Boned   Ducks   Stuffed   and   Served   With  Jelly. 

Take  two  ducks  and  pick  out  the  pin  feathers;  singe  them,  but  do  not  draw; 
rip  the  skins  down  the  back  and  sever  the  flesh  from  the  bones  without  cutting 
through.  Chop  through  the  wing  and  hip-joints  with  a  knife,  then  cut  with  the 
boning-knife  close  to  the  breast-bone  until  the  flesh  of  the  duck  comes  off  in  one 
piece.  Bone  partly  down  the  wings  and  legs,  chop  off  the  ends,  wash  and  dry  the 
meat,  lay  it  on  the  table,  skin  downward,  take  scraps  of  meat  from  the  thick  parts 
and  spread  them  over  the  thin,  then  •sprinkle  over  a  little  pepper  and  salt  and  spread 
forcemeat  over.  Pull  up  the  two  sides  together  so  as  to  form  the  shape  of  the  duck 
before  it  was  boned  and  sew  them  up  strongly  with  thread;  when  both  ducks  are  so 
prepared  roll  each  separately  in  muslin,  securing  it  tightly  at  the  ends  and  in  the 
middle,  and  boil  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  When  they  are  done  put 
them  (with  the  muslin  still  on)  in  oblong  rounded  bowls  to  keep  them  a  good  shape, 
put  a  dish  on  the  top  of  each  and  a  weight  on  the  top  of  that  and  leave  them  to  get 
cold.  When  ready  to  serve,  take  off  the  muslin,  wipe  them  with  a  cloth  dipped  in 
hot  water,  trim  off  the  edges  and  mask  them  over  with  melted  butter.  Cut  the  ducks 
in  slices  and  arrange  these  on  a  dish  with  croutons  of  aspic  jelly. 


COLD  DISHES.  393 


Boned   (Galantine   of)    Eel. 


Clean  a  large  eel  and  remove  the  backbone;  make  a  mince  of  the  thin  rind  of  a 
lemon,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  parsley  and  sweet  herbs,  and  a  little  ground  mace, 
cayenne  and  salt;  spread  this  over  the  inside  of  the  eel  and  roll  it  up,  commencing 
with  the  head.  Tie  the  fish  up  in  a  cloth  and  boil  in  equal  parts  of  water  and  vinegar 
until  it  is  quite  tender.  Let  the  stock  and  the  fish  get  quite  cold,  take  out  the  fish, 
and  serve. 

Boned   Grouse   (Galantine). 

Remove  the  bones  from  two  small  grouse,  spread  thickly  with  strips  of  rabbit  or 
hare,  lean  cooked  ham  and  fat  bacon,  placed  alternately,  having  the  strips  the  same 
length  as  the  bird;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with  a  thick  layer  of  force- 
meat. Sew  up  the  birds  with  threads,  then  roll  them  up  in  cloths.  Place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  some  vegetables,  cover  with  stock  and  stew  until  tender.  When  cooked 
take  the  birds  out  of  the  cloths,  put  them  in  fresh  ones,  with  their  sewn  parts  at  the 
top,  and  tie  the  cloths  at  either  end.  Put  them  in  a  deep  dish,  baste  with  half  their 
cooking  liquor,  place  another  dish  over  them  with  a  heavy  weight  on  top,  and  press 
till  cold.  Prepare  a  thin  puree  of  grouse  and  leave  it  until  nearly  cold.  Remove  the 
birds  from  the  cloths  and  dip  them  into  the  grouse  puree,  giving  them  a  thick  coat- 
ing, then  sprinkle  thickly  with  breadcrumbs  fried  brown  in  butter,  and  some  chopped 
pistachios;  place  them  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  aspic  jelly,  slices  of  lemon 
and  parsley,  arid  serve. 

Boned   (Galantine   of)    Partridges. 

Singe,  draw  and  bone  three  partridges.  Prepare  some  game  forcemeat  with  the 
flesh  from  the  legs  and  an  equal  quantity  of  ham.  Peel  four  truffles,  cut  them  in  dice 
and  mix. them  with  the  forcemeat,  seasoning  well.  Sprinkle  pepper  and  salt  inside 
the  partridges,  stuff  them  with  the  forcemeat,  roll  them  round  and  sew  them  up.  Tie 
each  one  in  a  cloth,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  stock,  and  boil  them  for  one 
hour  and  a  quarter.  Take  the  galantines  out  and  leave  them  until  cold.  Trim  and 
cut  the  galantines  into  small  slices  without  separating  them,  dip  a  paste  brush  in 
melted  glaze  and  brush  them  over.  Imbed  three  galantine  moulds  in  pounded  ice, 
and  pour  at  the  bottom  of  each  a  thin  layer  of  clear  aspic  jelly;  when  the  jelly  has 
set  put  a  galantine  in  each  mould,  pour  gradually  round  some  aspic  jelly  till  the 
moulds  are  full,  then  leave  them  in  the  ice  till  the  jelly  has  set.  Mould  some  fancy 
subject  in  fat  and  fix  it  in  the  center  of  a  bread  support  on  a  dish.  When  ready  to 
serve,  dip  the  moulds  in  tepid  water,  wipe  them  and  turn  the  galantines  out  around 
the  design.  Fill  some  small  fancy  paper  cases  with  cooked  truffles  that  have  been 
glazed,  arrange  them  round  the  base  of  the  support,  and  serve. 


394  COLD  DISHES. 

Boned  (or   Galantine  of)   Pheasant. 

Select  a  large  pheasant,  pluck  and  draw  it,  split  it  down  the  back  and  bone  it, 
spread  the  bird  open  on  a  cloth,  and  stuff  it  with  a  forcemeat  composed  of  tongue, 
veal  fat,  truffles,  white  meat  of  poultry,  and  larding  bacon,  seasoned  well  with  spices. 
Sew  the  bird  up,  bringing  it  back  to  its  original  shape  as  nearly  as  possible,  wrap  it 
in  slices  of  fat  bacon,  fastening  this  on  with  small  skewers,  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  pour 
over  it  in  equal  quantities  sufficient  white  wine  and  broth  to  cover  it,  and  stew  it 
gently  for  three  hours.  Afterwards  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  leave  the  bird 
in  the  liquor  for  an  hour;  then  take  it  out,  clarify  the  liquor  and  strain  it,  and  leave 
it  until  set. 

Boned   (Galantines   of)    Plovers. 

Procure  a  cylinder  mould  having  three  rounded  sides.  Pluck  and  bone  three 
plovers,  and  prepare  a  galantine  forcemeat,  mixing  in  with  it  a  salpicon  of  raw  truffles 
and  fat  liver;  stuff  the  birds  with  the  forcemeat,  and  roll  each  one  separately  in  a 
piece  of  thin  linen;  place  the  birds  in  a  stewpan  with  some  well  seasoned  broth  and 
stew  them  until  they  are  quite  tender.  When  done,  drain  the  birds  and  put  them 
between  two  dishes  with  a  weight  on  top  until  quite  cold.  Then  cut  them  into  slices, 
put  them  in  proper  shape  again,  and  glaze  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze; 
place  the  cylinder  mould  on  the  ice,  pour  in  a  thin  layer  of  aspic  jelly;  stick  a  skewer 
through  each  of  the  galantines,  lift  them  up  and  place  them  in  the  three  rounded  sides 
of  the  mould;  then  fill  the  space  between  the  birds  with  jelly,  pouring  it  in  carefully 
so  as  not  to  disturb  them,  and  let  the  mould  remain  on  the  ice  until  quite  firm.  Put 
a  bread  support  on  a  dish  and  decorate  with  taste,  fixing  in  the  center  another  one 
the  same  height  as  the  mould  to  fit  the  cylinder.  Dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water  to 
detach  the  jelly,  and  then  turn  the  contents  on  the  first  support,  allowing  the  other  to 
pass  through  the  center  of  the  galantines.  Place  a  small  article  modeled  in  fat  at  the 
top  of  this  one,  and  garnish  in  between  each  curved  part  of  the  galantines  with  some 
black  truffles,  peeled  and  glazed;  decorate  the  base  of  the  large  support  with  some 
triangular-shaped  croutons  of  aspic  jelly,  and  serve. 

Boned   (or   Galantine   of)   Quails. 

Singe,  draw  and  bone  ten  quails  and  stuff  them  with  galantine  forcemeat  mixed 
with  chopped  truffles,  roll  them  to  an  oval  shape,  and  tie  them  up  in  some  pieces  of 
cloth.  Cook  the  quails  in  mirepoix,  and  when  done  leave  them  until  cool.  Fix  a 
block  of  fried  bread  two  inches  in  diameter  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  place  a  rice  socle 
round  the  bread,  and  coat  it  with  montpelier  butter.  Drain  and  unwrap  the  quails, 
glaze  them  with  game  glaze,  place  one  on  top  of  the  bread  and  the  others  on  the 
socle,  leaning  against  the  sides,  garnish  with  chopped  aspic  and  croutons  of  aspic, 
and  serve. 


COLD  DISHES.  395 

Boned   (Galantines)   of  Snipes. 

Pluck  and  bone  the  snipes,  prepare  a  game  forcemeat,  and  mix  some  chopped 
truffles  with  it.  Place  the  birds  on  the  table,  spread  a  thick  layer  of  the  mixture 
over  them,  then  roll  them  to  an  oval  shape,  and  wrap  each  bird  separately  in  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper.  Put  the  birds  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  stock  and 
stew  them  gently;  when  cooked  take  them  from  the  fire  and  leave  until  cold.  When 
cold  remove  the  paper  from  the  birds,  trim  them  and  coat  them  with  some  brown 
chaudfroid  sauce.  When  the  sauce  is  cold  on  the  birds  decorate  them  with  some 
calf's  udder,  then  coat  them  again  with  half-set  aspic  jelly.  Fix  a  support  on  a  dish, 
and  mask  it  with  paper.  In  the  center  place  a  smaller  one,  on  which  fix  a  model  of 
Minerva  cast  in  fat.  Place  the  cooked  heads  on  the  snipe  at  the  base  of  the  support 
on  a  string  of  chopped  aspic  jelly,  stand  the  galantines  on  the  large  support,  leaning 
them  against  the  smaller  one.  Garnish  the  base  of  the  first  one  with  truffles  in  cases, 
and  serve. 

Boned   Turkey,   American   Style. 

Procure  a  fine  tender  young  turkey  weighing  about  eight  pounds,  singe  and 
draw  it,  neatly  wipe  the  interior,  and  bone  it.  Season  the  inside  with  one  pinch 
of  salt-and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  evenly  distributed.  Place  the  bird  on  a  dish 
and  then  in  the  ice-box  until  wanted.  Take  two  pounds  of  lean  raw  veal,  three 
pounds  of  fresh  pork,  all  cut  up  into  small  dice-shaped  pieces;  season  with  two  pinches 
of  salt,  one  pinch  of  white  pepper,  and  one-third  of  a  saltspoonful  each  of  grated 
nutmeg  and  thyme,  and  mix  all  well  together.  Chop  all  exceedingly  fine  in  the 
chopping-machine,  repeating  the  process,  if  necessary,  until  it  is  chopped  to  perfec- 
tion. Should  there  be  any  sinews  among  the  ingredients  remove  them.  Place  it  on 
a  dish,  and  stand  the  dish  on  the  ice  to  cool  until  the  following  is  prepared:  Have 
ready  one-fourth  pound  of  the  red  end  part  of  cooked  smoked  beef  tongue,  and 
eighteen  medium-sized  truffles,  both  cut  in  dice-shaped  pieces  one-half  inch  square. 
Take  the  forcemeat  from  the  ice,  and  thoroughly  mix  the  tongue  and  truffles  with  it, 
pouring  in  also  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine,  and  if  liked,  one-half  breakfast 
cupful  of  peeled  pistachios.  Remove  the  turkey  from  the  ice,  spread  it  on  a  clean 
table  (skin  side  downwards),  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  away  even  slices  from  the 
breast;  arrange  them  on  the  thin  parts,  so  that  the  turkey  will  have  an  equal  thick- 
ness all  over.  Place  the  forcemeat  right  in  the  center  of  the  bird,  column-shaped, 
leaving  a  clear  space  of  two  inches  at  each  end,  and  four  inches  at  each  side.  Spread 
on  a  table  a  strong  napkin,  sprinkling  over  it  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water.  Fold 
up  both  ends  of  the  turkey,  then  both  sides,  lift  and  lay  it  in  the  center  of  the  napkin, 
roll  it  carefully  in  this,  and  tightly  tie  one  end  first,  then  the  other.  Place  it  in  a 
large  saucepan  on  a  hot  range,  with  the  carcass,  bones  and  trimmings,  completely 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  put  the  lid  on;  when  coming  to  a  boil  thoroughly  skim  it, 


396  COLD  DISHES. 

then  add  one  good-sized  scraped  carrot,  and  one  peeled  onion  with  three  or  four 
cloves  stuck  in  it,  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  and  boil  on  a  moderate  fire  for  fully 
two  hours  and  a  half.  Remove  the  turkey  with  a  skimmer,  allow  it  to  cool  enough  to  be 
easily  handled.  Cut  the  strings  at  both  ends,  roll  it  over  again  as  before,  and  tie 
both  ends  tightly  as  before.  Place  it  in  a  flat  tin  pan,  placing  on  the  top  of  it  a 
board  the  size  of  the  turkey,  and  on  the  top  of  that  a  weight,  leaving  the  weight  on 
until  the  tuikey  is  thoroughly  cold,  which  will  take  several  hours;  but  avoid  placing 
it  on  the  ice  until  thoroughly  cold.  Two  days  after  this  it  will  be  ready  for  use, 
keeping  it  on  the  ice  in  the  same  napkin  in  which  it  was  cooked. 

Chaudfroid   of  Chicken. 

Divide  in  five  pieces  each,  three  roasted  chickens  (rather  underdone),  two 
wings,  two  legs  and  one  breastpiece;  remove  the  skin  and  some  of  the  bones.  Put 
three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  yellow  sauce  in  a  saucepan,  warm  it  and  also  warm  half 
the  quantity  of  aspic  jelly;  stand  the  pan  on  ice  and  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
the  sauce  thickens;  then  take  the  pan  off;  dip  the  pieces  of  fowl  one  by  one  into  the 
sauce  and  arrange  them  on  a  baking-sheet.  Dip  some  slices  of  truffles  in  the  sauce 
and  with  these  decorate  the  sides  of  a  plain  border-mould;  fill  the  mould  gradually 
with  sauce,  surround  it  with  ice  and  let  it  set.  Wipe  around  the  mould,  turn  the 
jelly  out  on  a  dish  and  fill  the  hollow  of  the  border  with  a  wooden  support,  having 
previously  covered  it  with  white  paper.  Trim  the  pieces  of  fowl,  mask  with  a  layer 
of  jelly,  dish  on  the  support,  and  serve. 

Chaudfroid   of  Goose's   Fat   Liver   Cutlets. 

A  jar  of  Strasburg  fat  livers  will  be  required  for  this  dish.  Remove  the  fat  and 
keep  it  on  ice  for  a  few  hours.  When  quite  firm,  divide  the  preparation  into  three 
equal  portions,  trim  and  cut  them  crosswise  into  slices,  giving  each  the  shape  of 
cutlets  as  nearly  as  possible.  Coat  the  cutlets  with  transparent  chaudfroid  sauce  and 
leave  them  until  cool.  Fix  a  support  of  fat  in  the  center  of  a  bread-support  and 
surround  it  with  chopped  aspic  jelly.  Trim  the  cutlets,  fix  some  paper  frills  on  the 
thin  ends  and  arrange  them  in  an  upright  circle  on  the  bread-support,  supported  by 
the  chopped  jelly.  Decorate  the  top  of  the  support  with  an  ornamental  attelette,  or 
fix  bread-support  on  a  dish  having  previously  garnished  it  with  a  border  of  fat. 

Chaudfroid  of  Lark   Galantines. 

Clean  and  bone  the  required  quantity  of  larks.  Prepare  some  lark  forcemeat, 
mix  in  some  truffles  and  stuff  each  lark  with  a  small  piece  of  the  forcemeat.  Butter 
the  same  quantity  of  dariole-moulds  as  there  are  larks,  put  one  in  each  mould, 
breast  downward,  stand  the  moulds  in  a  sautepan,  pour  a  little  water  round  them, 
place  the  pan  in  the  oven  and  bake  the  larks  until  cooked.  Reduce  some 


COLD  DISHES.  397 

Spanish  sauce  with  essence  of  lark.  Unmould  the  larks,  wipe  and  dip  them  in  the 
sauce,  then  leave  on  a  dish  until  it  is  cold.  Trim  the  same  quantity  of  small  minions 
of  chicken  as  there  are  larks,  contise  them  with  truffles  and  put  them  in  the  oven. 
Prepare  a  socle  of  fried  bread  cut  so  as  to  form  three  tiers,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  put 
the  larks  in  some  more  of  the  sauce,  arrange  them  in  rows  one  above  the  other, 
place  a  contised  fillet  between  each  lark,  and  a  border  of  croutons  of  meat  jelly  round 
the  dish;  garnish  with  chopped  aspic  jelly,  and  serve. 

Chaudfroid   of  Partridges  with   Truffles. 

Cut  the  breasts  off  five  or  six  cold  roasted  partridges,  divide  each  into  three 
pieces,  and  trim  the  skin  and  pinion  bones  off.  Prepare  some  chaudfroid  sauce  with 
two-thirds  of  brown  sauce  and  one-third  aspic  jelly.  Dip  the  pieces  of  partridge  in 
the  sauce,  lay  them  on  a  dish  and  leave  them  till  cool.  Prepare  a  wooden  stand  with 
steps,  mask  it  with  fat,  and  fix  it  on  a  dish,  placing  o.n  top  a  small  subject  cast  in  fat 
or  stearine.  Arrange  the  side  fillets  of  the  breast  on  the  lower  step,  upright  and 
overlapping,  and  surround  them  with  a  circle  of  chopped  aspic ;  put  the  middle  pieces 
of  the  breast  on  the  upper  step.  Garnish  the  base  of  the  stand  with  some  small 
folded  paper  cases  each  filled  with  a  small  glazed  truffle,  and  serve. 


Chaudfroid   of  Pheasants. 

Pluck  and  truss  two  pheasants,  wrap  them  in  buttered  paper,  and  roast  them 
without  coloring.  When  cold  cut  them  up  in  several  pieces,  strip  off  the  skin,  dip  them 
in  chaudfroid  sauce,  and  leave  on  a  dish  to  set.  Arrange  some  small  evenly-cut 
pieces  of  the  fillets  in  a  border  mould ;  fill  it  with  half-set  savory  aspic  jelly,  and 
when  the  jelly  is  quite  set  turn  out  the  border  on  a  dish.  Fix  a  crouton  of  fried 
bread  in  the  center,  and  pile  the  pieces  of  pheasant  over  it.  A  few  sprigs  of  parsley 
may  be  tucked  in  here  and  there  to  complete  the  effect. 


Chaudfroid   of  Pigeons. 


Prepare  and  truss  the  pigeons  as  for  roasting,  and  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  them  in  a  baking-dish,  pour  round  some  veal  stock,  and  bake  them, 
basting  occasionally  with  the  liquor  in  the  pan.  When  done,  drain,  and  cut  them 
into  convenient-sized  pieces.  When  the  stock  is  cold,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  pour 
it  into  a  small  saucepan,  add  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  boil  it  till  reduced  to  a 
jelly.  Then  strain  it  through  a  napkin  and  let  it  get  cold.  Place  the  pigeons  on  a 
dish,  cut  the  jelly  into  croutons  and  place  round  them,  garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of 
green  watercress,  and  serve. 


398  COLD  DISHES. 

Chaudfroid   of   Plovers. 

Quarter  four  plovers  which  have  been  previously  either  baked  or  roasted  and  are 
cold;  remove  the  skin  and  bones;  place  the  entrails  in  a  mortar,  pound  and  rub  them 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Prepare  a  small  quantity  of  thick  gravy  or  extract  of  game 
with  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  plovers,  straining  through  a  sieve  and  taking  off 
all  fat  and  reduce  it  to  half  glaze;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  to  thicken  it 
and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  Pour  the  gravy  slowly 
into  the  pounded  entrails  and  add  a  third  of  its  quantity  of  liquid  aspic  jelly;  when 
the  sauce  becomes  cold  stir  over  the  ice  until  thick;  dip  the  quarters  of  plovers  in  it, 
coating  them  well,  and  arrange  them  on  a  baking  sheet  to  let  the  sauce  set;  then 
remove  all  superfluous  sauce  from  the  quarters,  pile  them  on  a  dish  with  the  legs 
turned  toward  the  bottom  and  wings  to  the  top  in  the  center  of  a  border  of  the  aspic 
jelly,  and  serve. 

Chaudfroid   of  Quails. 

Draw  and  clean  the  birds  well,  remove  the  breasts  and  backbones,  but  leave  the 
legs.  Cut  four  ounces  of  fat  bacon  into  small  pieces,  fry  it  for  a  few  minutes  and 
then  add  one-half  pound  of  calf's  liver  also  cut  up,  one  chopped  carrot  and  onion,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  When 
well  cooked  pound  the  above  mixture  in  a  mortar  until  it  is  quite  smooth,  then  pass 
it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Stuff  the  birds  with  the  liver  forcemeat.  Tie  each  one 
separately  in  a  piece  of  muslin  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan.  Chop  the  bones  of  the 
birds  and  put  them  in  with  them,  add  some  chopped  vegetables,  a  bay  leaf  and  a 
sprig  of  thyme,  one-half  pint  of  stock  and  one  teacupful  of  sherry.  When  boiling 
move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  allow  the  contents  to  simmer  gently  for 
thirty  minutes  or  so.  When  cooked  remove  the  birds  from  the  stewpan,  drain  and 
press  them  lightly  between  two  dishes.  Strain  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  birds  through 
a  silk  sieve,  return  it  to  the  stewpan  and  boil  until  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Remove  the 
pieces  of  muslin  from  the  quails,  baste  them  with  the  glaze  several  times  in  order  to 
coat  them  well,  and  leave  them  until  cold.  When  ready  arrange  the  birds  in  a  circle 
on  a  dish,  garnish  them  with  chopped  aspic  jelly,  fill  the  center  with  small  salad,  and 
serve. 

Chaudfroid   of  Salmon. 

Cut  a  piece  about  four  inches  thick  from  the  middle  of  a  salmon  and  pass  a 
sharp  knife  between  the  skin  and  the  fish  until  almost,  but  not  quite  separated;  roll  a 
small  carrot  up  in  a  slice  of  bacon  and  put  it  in  the  hollow  of  the  fish  to  preserve  its 
shape,  then  bind  rashers  of  bacon  round  the  whole  of  the  fish,  tying  them  with  fine 
twine.  Chop  fine  three  rashers  of  fat  bacon  and  four  ounces  of  beef  suet,  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  few  slices  of  onions  and  carrots,  the 
juice  of  a  small  lemon,  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves  and  peppercorns  and  a  moderate 


COLD  DISHES. 


399 


quantity  of  salt.  Toss  these  ingredients  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  without 
browning  them,  then  pour  in  as  much  water  as  will  cover  the  fish  and  boil  it  gently 
for  an  hour.  Afterwards  strain  the  liquor  and  let  it  cool.  Place  the  salmon  in  a 
stewpan  that  is  not  too  large,  but  will  hold  it  comfortably,  pour  the  sauce  over  it  and 
allow  it  to  simmer  at  the  edge  of  the  fire.  When  cooked,  leave  the  fish  in  the  sauce 
until  nearly  cold,  then  drain  it  and  leave  it  until  quite  cold  and  firm.  Wash  and  bone 
two  anchovies  and  chop  them  with  a  few  chives  and  green  gherkins,  one  small  table- 
spoonful  of  capers  and  a  small  bunch  of  tarragon-leaves  and  parsley.  Put  all  these 
ingredients  into  a  mortar  with  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  pound  them 
well.  Add  to  the  mixture  two  ounces  of  butter,  one-half  teacupful  of  salad  oil 
which  should  be  poured  in  slowly,  one  scant  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  keep  it  on  the  ice  until  firm.  Cut  a  thick  oval-shaped  slice  of  bread, 
trimming  off  all  the  crust  and  fry  it  in  butter  until  of  a  light  golden  brown.  Spread 
some  of  the  above  mixture  over  the  bread,  put  it  on  a  dish,  lay  the  fish  on  it  and 
cover  the  top  of  it  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  same  mixture,  leveling  it  over  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife,  occasionally  dipped  in  warm  water.  Cut  into  various  shapes  some 
hard-boiled  white  of  egg  and  truffles  and  ornament  the  top  of  the  fish  with  them; 
strew  over  it  here  and  there  a  little  lobster  spawn.  Garnish  the  dish  with  croutons  of 
aspic  jelly,  and  serve. 

Chaudfroid    of  Snipes. 

Singe  and  draw  ten  snipes,  season  their  interiors,  then  put  them  aside  with  their 
heads.  Cut  into  thin  slices  one-half  pound  of  calf's  liver  and  put  these  in  a  fryingpan 
with  a  little  lard,  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  with  them  the 
tails  of  the  snipes,  a  pinch  of  chopped  onions,  a  few  sprigs  of  sweet  herbs  and  some 
trimmings  of  truffles,  sprinkling  over  plenty  of  salt  and  pepper.  When  cooked  leave 
the  liver  and  trails  till  cool,  then  place  them  in  a  mortar  with  half  their  quantity  of 
chopped  fresh  bacon  and  pound  them.  Add  to  the  forcemeat  two  or  three  truffles 
cut  into  small  pieces.  Stuff  the  snipes  with  the  liver  mixture,  roll  them  into  oval 
shapes,  sew  them  up,  and  fasten  a  strip  of  buttered  paper  around  each.  Line  the 
bottom  of  a  stewpan  with  some  trimmings  of  bacon,  put  in  the  snipes,  moisten  them 
to  half  their  height  with  some  white  wine  and  gravy  made  from  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings of  the  snipes.  Place  a  sheet  of  paper  on  the  top,  put  on  the  lid,  set  it  in  the 
oven  and  braise  the  snipes  for  twenty  minutes.  When  cooked,  take  out  the  snipes 
and  let  them  cool,  then  remove  the  paper  and  strings  and  trim  them  neatly.  Skim 
the  fat  off  the  cooking  liquor,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  another  stewpan, 
mix  with  it  one-half  pint  of  brown  sauce  and  boil  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  skim- 
ming occasionally;  then  stir  in  with  it  half  its  quantity  of  aspic  jelly.  When  the 
sauce  is  thick  and  smooth  strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  another  stewpan  and  leave  it 
until  nearly  cool,  then  stand  the  stewpan  on  ice  and  stir  it  for  a  few  minutes. 
Plunge  the  snipes  in  the  sauce  and  cover  them  well  with  it;  then  arrange  them  on  a 


400  COLD  DISHES. 

baking  sheet  and  leave  until  the  sauce  has  set.  In  the  meantime  cook  the  heads  of 
the  birds,  trim  them,  and  glaze  them  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze. 
Remove  the  snipes  from  the  baking-dish,  using  a  fork  for  the  purpose,  cut  off  all  the 
superfluous  sauce,  and  arrange  them  in  the  form  of  a  dome  on  a  small  stand.  Put 
one  of  the  heads  between  each  of  the  birds,  separating  them  with  chopped  aspic  jelly. 
The  chaudfroid  is  then  ready  for  serving. 


Chaudfroid   of  Turkey. 


Cut  the  flesh  off  the  breast  of  a  large  turkey  that  has  been  cooked  and  cooled, 
and  then  cut  it  into  thin  fillets  lengthwise;  trim  them  to  an  equal  size,  dip  them  in 
some  chaudfroid  sauce  and  lay  them  side  by  side  on  a  bakingsheet.  Leave  the  fillets 
till  the  sauce  is  cold,  then  trim  and  coat  them  with  some  aspic  jelly.  Have  in  readi- 
ness a  small  pyramid,  shaped  out  of  fat,  stuck  on  a  bread  support  and  ornamented  on 
the  top  with  a  vase  of  fat.  Arrange  the  fillets  on  the  bread,  leaning  against  the  pyra- 
mid and  garnish  the  base  of  them  with  a  circle  of  chopped  jelly.  Hollow  out  some 
cooked  truffles,  fill  them  with  a  salpicon  of  turkey  that  has  been  thickened  with  may- 
onnaise sauce,  and  arrange  them  round  the  bottom  of  the  support,  and  serve.  If  liked 
the  fillets  of  turkey  may  be  alternated  with  fillets  of  pickled  tongue  that  has  been 
coated  with  red  aspic. 

Chaudfroid   of  Woodcocks. 

Pluck  and  singe  some  woodcocks,  wrap  them  in  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  lay  them 
in  a  bakingpan  and  roast  them  in  the  oven;  do  not  brown  them,  but  keep  them 
rather  underdone.  When  cold  cut  the  birds  into  joints,  coat  them  over  with  chaud- 
froid sauce  that  has  been  reduced  with  essence  of  woodcock,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish 
till  the  sauce  has  cooled.  Garnish  a  round  border  mould  with  some  cooked  minion 
fillets  of  woodcocks,  fill  it  with  aspic  jelly  and  leave  it  till  set.  Turn  the  border  of 
jelly  out  onto  a  round  dish,  put  a  block  of  fried  bread  in  the  center,  arrange  the  pieces 
of  birds  inside  the  circle,  leaning  them  against  the  bread  support,  and  serve. 


Partridge    Cutlets. 


Bone  and  skin  some  partridges,  shape  them  like  cutlets,  cut  them  across  in  thin 
slices,  mask  them  with  a  few  cooked  poultry  livers  that  have  been  pounded  into  a 
paste,  and  then  cover  this  with  brown  chaudfroid  sauce;  arrange  them  side  by  side  on 
a  bakingsheet  and  bake.  When  done  glaze  them  with  aspic  jelly,  and  as  soon  as  the 
jelly  has  set  trim  off  the  superfluous  sauce  and  fasten  paper  ruffles  round  the  bones. 
Put  in  the  center  of  the  dish  some  small-glazed  truffles,  arrange  the  cutlets  round 
them,  finish  with  a  chain  of  small  aspic  jelly  croutons  round  the  cutlets,  and  serve. 


COLD  DISHES.  401 

Calf's  Head   Cheese. 

This  tasty  preparation  can  be  produced  with  any  remains  of  cold,  cooked  calf's 
head,  as  follows:  Cut  the  meat  into  moderate-sized  pieces,  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  some  brains  or  brain  sauce,  pour  in  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  or  sherry,  one  or 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  sufficient  calf's  head  stock  to  cover;  sprinkle  in 
some  salt,  pepper,  and  powdered  sage,  and  add  a  lump  or  two  of  sugar.  When  boil- 
ing move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  allow  the  contents  to  simmer  gently, 
keeping  them  thoroughly  stirred.  When  the  liquor  has  reduced  to  a  jelly,  place  the 
cheese  in  a  mould,  and  leave  it  until  cold  and  stiff.  When  ready  to  serve  turn  it  out 
onto  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish  paper,  on  a  dish. 

Pig's   Head   Cheese. 

Thoroughly  clean  a  pig's  head,  split  it  into  halves,  take  out  the  eyes  and  brains, 
cut  off  the  nose  and  ears,  and  pour  scalding  water  over  the  latter  and  the  head, 
and  scrape  them  clean.  Then  rinse  all  in  cold  water,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  and  boil  slowly,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When 
boiled  so  that  the  bones  leave  the  meat  readily,  take  them  from  the  water  and  put 
them  in  a  large  wooden  bowl  or  tray.  Remove  every  particle  of  bone,  chop  the  meat 
small,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  if  relished,  a  little  chopped  sage  or 
thyme.  Spread  a  cloth  in  a  sieve,  set  in  it  a  deep  dish,  put  in  the  meat,  then  fold  the 
cloth  closely  over  it,  lay  over  a  plate  with  a  weight  on  it,  which  will  press  equally  the 
whole  surface.  Let  the  weight  be  more  or  less  heavy  according  as  you  wish  the 
cheese  to  be  fat  or  lean;  a  heavy  weight  by  pressing  out  the  fat  will  of  course  leave 
the  cheese  lean.  When  cold,  scrape  off  whatever  fat  may  be  found  on  the  outside  of 
the  cloth,  and  keep  the  cheese  in  the  cloth  in  a  cool  place.  It  should  be  sliced  thin, 
and  can  be  eaten  with  or  without  mustard  and  vinegar  or  catsup. 

Jellied  Veal   or  Veal   Head   Cheese. 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  wash  it  and  cut  it  into  two  or  three 
pieces.  Allow  it  to  simmer  in  just  enough  water  to  cover  the  meat,  until  the  latter  can 
easily  be  removed  from  the  bones — which  will  take  from  three  to  four  hours.  Take 
it  up,  remove  all  the  bone,  and  chop  the  meat  up  fine;  add  to  it  salt,  pepper,  mace 
and  finely-chopped  shallots  and  thyme,  according  to  the  taste.  Put  all  these  into 
the  liquor  and  boil  it  until  it  is  almost  reduced,  then  stir  in  the  strained  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Turn  it  into  a  mould,  and  let  it  stand  until  the  following  day.  Turn  it  out 
onto  a  dish,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley. 

Chicken   in  Jelly. 

Draw  and  clean  a  chicken  and  cut  it  up  with  the  exception  of  the  breast,  which 
should  be  left  whole.  Put  the  pieces  in  a  stewpan  with  the  liver,  heart  and  gizzard; 


402  COLD  DISHES. 

add  two  bay  leaves,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme  and  half  of  a  small  lemon; 
pour  in  water  to  cover,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  the  chicken  very 
gently  until  tender.  When  cooked  take  it  out  of  the  liquor,  cut  the  meat  off  the 
breast  in  four  long  strips  and  cut  the  remainder  of  the  meat  into  small  pieces.  Put 
the  bones  back  in  the  saucepan  with  half  an  ounce  of  gelatine  that  has  been  dissolved 
in  a  small  quantity  of  water  and  boil  gently  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  longer. 
Strain  the  liquor  through  a  jelly  bag  and  pour  sufficient  into  a  deep  pie  dish  to  cover 
the  bottom.  When  the  jelly  has  set,  arrange  on  the  top  of  it  a  device  in  hard  boiled 
eggs,  put  the  largest  slice  of  chicken  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  arrange  some  of  the 
other  slices  around  it,  pour  in  another  layer  of  the  jelly,  and  leave  it  until  set.  Then 
put .  in  the  remainder  of  the  pieces  of  meat,  arrange  them  tastefully,  pour  the  re- 
mainder of  the  jelly  carefully  over,  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place.  When  the  jelly  is  firm 
dip  the  dish  in  warm  water,  wipe  it  and  turn  the  contents  over  on  a  dish  upon  which 
is  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  serve. 

Jelly   of   Pig's   Feet   and   Ears. 

Wash  and  clean  carefully  the  feet  and  ears  of  a  pig  and  put  them  in  a  basin  of 
water  to  soak  for  several  hours.  Then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water  and 
boil  over  a  slow  fire  for  four  or  five  hours,  until  the  feet  and  ears  are  quite  done  and 
the  bones  of  the  former  can  be  easily  extracted;  then  add  a  teacupful  of  chopped 
sage  and  parsley  in  equal  proportions,  one-half  saltspoonful  of  powdered  mace,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  as  much  pepper.  Set  the  pan  again  over  a  slow  fire  and 
cook  slowly  until  the  herbs  are  tender;  then  pour  the  whole  into  a  melon  mould,  and, 
when  set,  turn  it  out,  and  serve. 


Pig's   Head  in  Jelly. 


Clean  a  small  pig's  head  and  feet,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  calf's  feet, 
one  onion  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  squeeze  in  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  moisten  to  height  with  water;  set  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  it 
boils,  then  remove  to  the  side  and  cook  slowly  for  two  or  three  hours,  or  until  the 
meat  is  tender.  When  cooked  take  the  head  and  feet  out  of  the  liquor  and  remove 
all  the  bones,  cut  the  meat  in  small  pieces  and  mix  with  it  a  small  quantity  of  roast 
meat  or  any  remains  of  cold  cooked  tongue  or  poultry.  When  the  cooking  liquor 
has  partly  cooled,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  return  it  to 
the  pan  and  boil  until  it  is  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  thick  jelly.  Put  the  meat 
in  the  liquor  with  a  few  pickled  gherkins  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  or  mace.  Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire 
till  thoroughly  hot.  Coat  the  inside  of  a  mould  with  a  small  quantity  of  gelatine, 
arrange  at  the  bottom  a  design  cut  out  of  pickled  beet-root  and  around  the  edges 
finely-minced  parsley  and  the  separated  yolks  and  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs.  Over 


COLD  DISHES. 


403 


these  articles  place  a  thin  layer  of  the  mince,  being  careful  not  to  disarrange  them; 
leave  it  until  set,  then  fill  the  mould  up  with  the  remainder,  pack  the  mould  in  ice  or 
let  it  stand  for  one  night  in  a  cool  place,  as  the  contents  must  not  be  turned  out  till 
well  set,  then  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water,  turn  the  head  out  on  a  dish  that  has  been 
embellished  with  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  and  garnish  with  a  few 
sprigs  of  well-washed  parsley. 

Trout  in    Fish  Jelly. 

Clean  several  small  trout  and  arrange  them  with  their  tails  in  their  mouths.  Put 
in  a  fish-kettle  with  some  water  a  bay  leaf,  a  peeled  and  sliced  onion,  a  moderate 
quantity  of  spices,  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  vinegar.  Boil  the  water  for  some  min- 
utes, then  remove  it  from  the  fire.  When  the  liquor  is  cool,  put  in  the  fish,  and  place 
it  over  the  fire  until  on  the  point  of  boiling ;  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  it  sim- 
mer until  the  fish  is  done.  When  cooked,  drain  the  fish  carefully,  and  baste  them 
occasionally  with  clear  fish  jelly  until  they  are  well  coated.  When  the  fish  and  jelly 
are  quite  cold,  trim  them  neatly,  lay  them  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a 
folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  them  with  small  croutons  of  jelly 
and  bunches  of  neatly-selected  fresh  parsley,  and  serve. 

Cold   Boiled   Mackerel   with   Green   Mayonnaise   Sauce. 

Free  some  cold  boiled  mackerel  from  skin  and  bones,  flake  the  flesh  with  two 
forks,  and  pile  the  flakes  onto  a  dish.  Prepare  a  thick  mayonnaise  sauce,  and  mix  it 
with  plenty  of  chopped  parsley  previously  scalded.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  mack- 
erel, garnish  it  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and  fennel,  and  young  crayfish,  placing  one  on 
the  mackerel,  and  serve. 


Mayonnaise   of  Chicken. 


Cut  a  cold  roasted  chicken  into  small  joints,  trim  them  to  shape,  lay  them  on  a 
deep  dish,  dust  over  salt  and  pepper,  lay  two  or  three  slices  of  onion  on  them,  also  a 
few  cloves,  and  moisten  with  tarragon  vinegar  and  salad  oil.  Let  the  pieces  of  fowl 
marinade  for  two  or  three  hours,  turning  them  occasionally  so  that  all  may  be  fla- 
vored. Wash  two  or  three  lettuces,  dry  them  on  a  cloth  and  cut  them  into  fine  shreds 
with  the  exception  of  the  hearts ;  heap  these  on  a  dish,  drain,  arrange  the  pieces  of 
fowl  on  top,  and  coat  well  with  mayonnaise  sauce.  Arrange  the  hearts  tastefully 
around  the  dish  cut  in  quarters,  also  quarters  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  slices  of  beet-root 
and  stoned  olives. 

Mayonnaise   of  Eels. 

Take  an  eel  weighing  from  two  to  two  and  one-half  pounds,  clean,  remove  the 
head  and  skin  and  cut  up  in  pieces  about  two  and  one-half  inches  in  length;  plunge 
them  into  salted  water  for  a  short  time,  then  take  out  and  wipe  dry,  and  place  in  lay- 


404  COLD  DISHES. 

ers  in  a  dish;  sprinkle  spice  over  each  layer,  pour  over  a  little  vinegar  and  water  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  isinglass  dissolved  in  the  water,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Take 
the  pieces  of  eel  out  of  the  dish,  put  them  in  another,  and  when  cold  pour  over  a  little 
mayonnaise  sauce,  garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  serve. 


Mayonnaise   of  Perch. 


Cut  off  the  fillets  of  three  or  four  medium-sized  perch  and  season  them  with  salt 
and  pepper;  butter  the  bottom  of  a  flat  stewpan,  put  the  fillets  in,  pour  a  little  wine 
over  them  and  boil,  keeping  them  rather  firm.  Take  them  off  the  fire  when  done  and 
leave  till  cold;  then  divide  the  fillets  in  two  parts,  put  them  in  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle 
in  some  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  some  oil  and  vinegar  over  them,  let  them  steep  for 
an  hour.  Arrange  the  fillets  in  layers  on  an  aspic  border,  building  them  in  a  dome- 
like shape  and  masking  each  layer  with  mayonnaise  sauce.  Cover  the  top  with  may- 
onnaise sauce,  and  serve. 


Mayonnaise   of  Salmon. 


Cut  some  cold  boiled  salmon  into  small,  neat  pieces  of  a  uniform  size  and  shape; 
prepare  a  mixture  of  two  parts  salad  oil  and  one  part  tarragon  vinegar,  season  it  to 
taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  beat  it  up  well  and  dip  the  pieces  of  salmon  in  it.  Wash 
two  or  three  fresh  lettuces,  trimming  off  the  discolored  leaves,  drain  the  water  from 
the  remainder  and  cut  them  into  fine  shreds.  Place  the  lettuces  on  a  dish  and  put  the 
pieces  of  salmon  on  top  of  them,  arranging  them  in  a  circle,  each  one  overlapping  the 
other.  Wash  the  hearts  only  of  some  young  lettuces  and  cut  them  into  quarters;  also 
wash  some  garden  cress  and  shake  it  well  to  free  it  as  much  as  possible  from  water. 
Arrange  some  of  the  lettuce  hearts  and  cress  in  alternate  circles  round  the  salmon, 
and  put  some  in  the  center  of  the  circle  of  salmon.  Place  right  in  the  middle  of  all 
a  large  piece  of  beet-root,  on  which  stand  half  of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  from  which  the 
yolk  has  been  scraped  out  and  the  vacancy  filled  with  capers.  Place  on  each  piece 
of  salmon  a  small  round  of  beet-root  with  a  caper  on  it.  Finally,  garnish  with  a  bor- 
der of  halves  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  slices  of  beet-root.  Serve  the  salad  with  a  sauce- 
Jboatful  of  mayonnaise  sauce. 

Mayonnaise   of  Salmon   with   Aspic  Jelly. 

Remove  the  bones  from  two  pounds  of  salmon  cut  into  slices,  place  them  in  a 
fish-kettle,  cover  over  with  boiling  fish-broth,  add  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  then  move 
the  fish-kettle  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  When  cooked,  take 
out  the  fish  and  leave  till  cold.  Turn  a  border  of  aspic  jelly  onto  a  dish  and  fill  the 
•center  with  alternate  layers  of  mayonnaise  and  the  slices  of  salmon,  finishing  with 
the  mayonnaise,  and  serve. 


COLD  DISHES.  405 


Mayonnaise  of  Soles. 


Place  the  soles  to  cook  in  boiling  salted-water  with  a  little  lemon-juice  added. 
When  tender,  drain  the  soles,  lift  the  fillets  carefully  off  the  bones  and  place  them 
between  two  dishes  and  press  them  together  till  cold.  Then  cut  the  fillets  into  as 
many  cutlets  as  possible.  Wash  and  bone  some  anchovies  and  cut  them  into  small 
strips.  Wash  and  remove  the  outer  leaves  of  a  large  lettuce,  cut  the  heart  and  re- 
maining leaves  into  fine  shreds,  pile  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  a  quantity  of  nice 
mayonnaise  sauce  over  them  ;  over  this,  arrange  a  circle  of  the  fillets  of  soles,  next  a 
circle  of  the  anchovies  and  then  a  circle  of  stoned  olives.  Fill  up  the  space  in  the 
center  with  finely-minced  hard-boiled  eggs,  capers  and  anchovies,  and  serve. 


Trout  with   Mayonnaise. 


Cut  off  the  heads  and  thin  tail  parts  from  half  a  dozen  or  so  medium-sized 
trout,  clean  them  inwardly  through  the  gills,  also  wiping  the  insides  and  taking  care 
not  to  remove  the  slime  from  the  skin.  Have  in  readiness  a  saucepan  with  sufficient 
court-bouillon  mixed  with  a  little  claret  to  cover  the  fish,  plunge  them  in  when  the 
liquor  is  boiling,  cover  over  the  pan,  remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  allow  the 
fish  to  cool  in  the  liquor.  Take  them  out,  drain,  wipe  well,  place  them  on  the  ice  for 
thirty  minutes  or  so  and  glaze  with  half-set  aspic  jelly.  Fill  an  ornamental  border 
mould  with  aspic  jelly,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  when  set,  place  a  small  quantity  of 
chopped  jelly  in  the  center  and  serve  with  mayonnaise  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 

Mayonnaise   of  Turbot. 

Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  two  or  three  pounds  of  cold  boiled  turbot;  cut 
up  the  meat  into  shapes  such  as  hearts  or  rounds,  place  them  in  a  basin  with  sufficient 
oil  and  vinegar  to  moisten,  sprinkle  over  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  a  flavoring  of 
chopped  shallots  and  tarragon  leaves.  Allow  the  pieces  of  fish  to  soak  in  this  for  an 
hour  or  so,  then  remove  them,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  small 
fillets  of  anchovies  and  gherkins,  hard-boiled  eggs,  beet-root  in  slices,  capers,  tarragon 
leaves  and  pieces  of  chopped  meat  jelly.  Pour  some  mayonnaise  sauce  in  the  center 
of  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Mayonnaise   Turkey   with   Aspic  Jelly. 

Cut  the  breast  of  a  cooked  turkey  into  slices,  then  cut  them  up  again  into  shapes 
all  alike.  Make  a  quantity  of  mayonnaise  sauce  with  lemon  juice,  and  mix  with  it 
nearly  its  quantity  of  just  melted  aspic  jelly.  Coat  the  pieces  of  turkey  with  the 
mayonnaise  jelly,  place  them  on  a  dish,  and  stand  the  dish  on  the  ice.  Chop  fine 
a  boiled  beet-root  and  some  parsley.  Take  the  slices  of  turkey  on  a  fork,  and  when 
the  jelly  has  firmly  set,  dip  the  upper  side  lightly  into  chopped  parsley,  and  then  inta 


4o6  COLD  DISHES. 

the  beet-root.     Arrange  them  on  a  dish,  the  parsley  side  upwards,  against  a  pile  of 
shred  lettuces,  garnish  with  small  sprays  of  watercress  and  chopped  aspic,  and  serve. 

Pickled   Beef  Palates. 

Wash  four  palates,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  three 
blades  of  mace,  two  or  three  cloves,  and  one  quart  of  water,  seasoning  to  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Boil  the  palates  till  quite  tender  (they  will  take  about  five  hours), 
then  drain,  and  remove  their  skins,  keeping  them  covered  until  cold.  Put  one  and 
one-half  pints  of  vinegar  and  an  equal  quantity  of  white  wine  into  a  saucepan  with 
the  mace  that  was  previously  boiled  with  the  palates,  four  cloves,  and  a  few  pepper- 
corns, and  boil  for  ten  minutes;  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  leave  until  cold.  Put 
the  palates  in  an  earthenware  jar  with  two  bay  leaves,  five  or  six  peppercorns,  and  a 
blade  of  mace,  then  pour  the  pickle  over  them.  Tie  paper  over  the  top  of  the  jar, 
and  keep  it  for  use  in  a  store  cupboard. 

Pickled   Salmon. 

Boil  a  salmon,  and  when  cooked  take  it  carefully  out  of  the  liquor,  and  leave  it 
until  cold,  reserving  some  of  the  cooking-stock.  Remove  the  bones  from  the  salmon 
and  put  it  in  a  deep  dish.  Mix  with  the  reserved  liquor  an  equal  quantity  of 
vinegar,  four  bay  leaves,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  allspice  and  black  pepper,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  salt ;  pour  it  over  the  fish.  Keep  the  salmon  in  a  cool  place, 
and  on  the  following  day  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Pickled   Salmon,  Turkish   Style. 

Procure  six  pounds  of  salmon,  and  cut  it  into  slices ;  wash,  dry  them  on  a  cloth, 
rub  them  over  with  salt,  and  fry  them  in  olive  oil  until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides. 
Pour  three  pints  of  vinegar  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  saffron-water,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  on  the  point  of  boiling. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  jar  with  bay  leaves  and  myrtle  leaves,  then  put  in  the  slices  of 
fish,  placing  between  each  layer  pieces  of  garlic,  skinned  pistachios,  peppercorns, 
mixed  spices,  and  bay  and  myrtle  leaves,  cover  the  top  slices  with  bay  leaves  and 
myrtle  leaves,  and  pour  over  the  boiling  vinegar.  Put  a  plate  over  the  jar  with  a 
weight  on  the  top  to  press  the  contents  down,  and  leave  them  for  three  or  four  days. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  the  pickle  will  be  ready  for  use ;  it  may  be  preserved  for  a 
considerable  length  of  time. 


Pickled   Tongue. 


Wash  the  tongue  well,  place  it  on  a  dish  or  pan,  with  plenty  of  salt  water  over  it, 
and  turn  it  over  every  day  for  four  or  five  days,  so  that  every  part  of  it  may  be  evenly 


COLD  DISHES.  407 

salted.  After  the  fourth  or  fifth  day,  mix  together  two  ounces  of  salt,  one-half  ounce 
of  saltpeter,  and  one  ounce  of  brown  sugar,  and  rub  the  mixture  well  into  the  tongue. 
Turn  it  over  every  day  for  a  fortnight,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Potted   Beef. 

Place  in  a  jar  some  lean  beef  with  a  little  water,  cover  and  place  in  a  deep  stew- 
pan  full  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  five  hours;  take  out  the  beef,  mince 
it  very  fine  and  pound  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  pepper,  salt  and  mace,  then  add  six 
ounces  or  so  of  butter.  Fill  some  small  pots  with  this,  and  pour  clarified  butter  over 
the  top  to  keep  the  air  out;  tie  down  with  paper  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

Potted   Beef  Tongue. 

Put  a  pickled  tongue  into  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  it  for  three  hours  or  until 
tender;  plunge  it  into  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes,  take  out  and  skin  it.  Chop  it 
up  small  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  to  a  paste.  Put  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan  to  melt,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  mixed  ground  spices,  having  half 
mace,  and  the  remainder  nutmeg,  cloves,  and  cayenne  in  equal  proportions  to  the 
tongue,  and  a  little  salt  if  required,  and  lastly  the  clear  part  of  the  melted  butter. 
Pound  and  mix  thoroughly,  press  the  mixture  into  jars,  pour  over  more  melted  butter, 
cover  the  jars  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place  till  wanted.* 

Potted  Chicken. 

Take  a  fowl,  pluck  and  draw,  skin,  chop,  and  put  it  into  a  stockpot  with  one 
quart  of  water  and  a  ham  bone,  and  stew  gently  for  six  hours.  Take  it  out,  cut  off 
all  the  meat,  chop  it  fine  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing  machine,  and  pound  in  a  mortar, 
adding  a  little  of  the  liquor  to  moisten.  Pack  it  tightly  in  small  pots  or  jars,  cover 
with  clarified  butter,  and  place  one  side  until  wanted. 


Potted   Crayfish. 


Remove  all  the  meat  from  five  or  six  dozen  boiled  crayfish,  put  it  into  a  mortar 
and  pound  it  well  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  ground  mace,  pepper 
and  salt.  When  all  these  are  pounded  to  a  smooth  paste  stuff  it  into  jars,  cover  over 
with  warm  butter,  tie  the  jars  over  with  bladder  to  prevent  the  air  from  getting  into 
it,  and  it  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Potted   Eels. 

After  cleaning  the  eels  cut  them  into  three-inch  lengths;  bone  and  season  well 
with  salt,  black  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  mace;  pack  them  closely  in  jars  and 
leave  for  a  few  hours;  then  cover  them  with  a  plain  water-paste  and  bake  in  a  mod- 


408  COLD  DISHES. 

erate  oven.  The  eels  will  be  cooked  in  about  an  hour;  take  them  out  of  the  oven 
and  leave  until  cold;  then  take  off  the  paste  and  pour  a  little  clarified  butter  over 
them. 

Potted   Fish. 

Take  some  cold  cooked  fish,  remove  the  skin  and  bones  and  chop  it  fine;  peel 
some  freshly-boiled  shrimps,  chop  and  mix  them  with  the  fish.  Put  all  into  a  mortar 
and  pound  until  smooth.  Work  in  with  the  paste  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  butter 
and  season  to  taste  with  grated  nutmeg,  mace,  salt  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne. 
Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  pack  it  into  small  moulds,  leave  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  at  the  top  of  each,  and  fill  up  with  clarified  butter.  Keep  the 
moulds  in  a  cool  larder.  Turn  the  fish  out  of  the  moulds  on  a  dish  with  a  folded 
napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Potted  Game. 

Remove  the  skin  from  some  remains  of  cold,  cooked  game,  chop  the  meat,  put 
it  in  a  mortar  and  pound  until  quite  smooth.  Mix  with  it  about  a  third  of  its  bulk  of 
fresh  butter  and  season  to  taste  with  pounded  mace,  pepper,  salt  and  a  small  quantity 
of  cayenne.  When  quite  smooth,  turn  the  mixture  into  small  jars,  cover  and  tie  down. 

Potted  Goose. 

Singe  and  draw  a  goose,  and  remove  the  bones.  To  fill  a  potting  pan  seven 
inches  in  diameter  the  goose  should  weigh  about  four  pounds  when  cleaned  and  with- 
out the  giblets.  Lard  the  breast  with  strips  of  fat  bacon  and  sprinkle  over  with  a 
little  salt  and  pepper.  Remove  the  sinews  from  the  thighs,  cut  off  the  flesh,  add  to 
it  eight  ounces  of  fillet  of  veal  and  one  pound  of  fat  bacon,  chop  them  all  up  and 
pound  in  a  mortar  together  with  one  ounce  of  spiced  salt.  Put  a  layer  of  this  mixture 
at  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Spread  out  the  goose  with  the  skin  part  downwards,  dust 
it  over  with  a  little  more  spiced  salt,  put  another  layer  of  the  veal  mixture  in  the  in- 
side of  it,  roll  it  around  and  put  it  in  the  pan ;  cover  over  with  more  of  the  veal 
mixture,  put  a  few  slices  of  bacon  on  the  top,  place  a  bay  leaf  on  this,  put  the  lid  on 
the  pan  and  set  it  in  a  large  saucepan,  pour  in  water  to  about  two  inches  in  depth, 
place  the  saucepan  in  the  oven  and  cook  for  three  hours.  When  the  goose  is  done, 
which  can  be  ascertained  by  putting  a  trussing  needle  into  it,  take  it  out,  let  it  get 
cold  and  cover  over  in  the  dish  with  a  layer  of  the  melted  fat  of  the  goose.  Let  it 
remain  for  a  day,  and  it  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Potted  Goose's  Fat  Livers. 

Chop  fine  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  goose's  fat  livers  and  half  a  pound  of  calf's 
liver,  put  them  in  a  mortar,  pound  until  quite  smooth,  and  pass  them  through  a  fine 


COLD  DISHES.  409 

hair-sieve.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  the  pounded  livers, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  ;  next  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  thick 
cream,  a  few  drops  of  rosewater,  salt  to  taste,  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  and 
stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes  longer ;  then  put  in  a  few  chopped 
truffles  and  one  teaspoonful  of  brandy.  Let  the  mixture  stew  gently  at  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  very  thick,  then  pack  it  in  small  jars,  leaving  about  a  third  of  an  inch 
clear  space  at  the  top.  When  cold,  fill  the  jars  up  with  clarified  butter,  tie  them  over 
with  parchment,  and  keep  in  a  dry  place. 


Potted   Ham. 

Trim  all  the  meat  from  the  remains  of  a  boiled  ham,  chop  it  very  fine,  being 
careful  to  remove  all  outside  pieces  and  gristle,  pound  it  to  a  paste,  measure  it,  and 
to  each  pint,  mix  in  one  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard  and  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne, 
and  should  the  ham  be  very  lean,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Pack  this  smoothly 
in  small  earthen  jars,  paste  paper  over  and  put  on  the  covers.  Stand  the  jars  in  a 
deep  baking-dish,  surround  them  nearly  to  the  top  with  hot  water  and  let  them  steam 
slowly  for  two  hours.  When  done,  remove  the  jars  from  the  pan  and  let  them  cool 
with  the  covers  on.  When  cold,  remove  the  covers,  pour  into  each  jar  a  little  melted 
butter,  place  fresh  covers  on  and  keep  them  in  a  cool,  dry  cupboard  until  wanted  for 
use.  Ham  prepared  in  this  way  makes  delicious  sandwiches  and  will  keep  for  months. 


Potted   Hare. 

Skin,  draw,  wash  and  bone  a  hare,  keeping  the  blood  to  mix  in  with  the  force- 
meat. Cut  off  the  meat  from  the  shoulders,  and  half  that  of  the  legs,  remove  all 
skin  and  sinews  and  put  this  flesh  into  a  mortar  with  twelve  pounds  of  veal  without 
skin  or  gristle,  add  one  pound  of  fat  bacon,  both  cut  up  small ;  pound  it,  and  while 
doing  so,  add  one  ounce  of  spiced  salt  and  the  blood.  Lard  the  body  with  pieces  of 
fat  bacon,  cut  it  in  halves,  dust  it  over  well  with  about  two  ounces  of  spiced  salt,  put 
it  in  a  stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  fry  it  for  ten  minutes.  Put  a  layer  of 
the  forcemeat  at  the  bottom  of  a  pottingpan  to  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  then  put 
in  half  of  the  body,  sprinkle  it  over  with  another  ounce  of  spiced  salt,  then  more 
forcemeat  and  so  on,  ending  with  a  layer  of  forcemeat.  Put  a  slice  of  bacon  on  top, 
a  bayleaf  on  that,  cover  the  pan,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  two  inches  deep  with  water, 
place  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  cook  for  three  hours  or  until  done,  which  may  be 
ascertained  by  piercing  the  flesh  with  a  very  clean  trussing-needle.  When  done,  let 
it  get  cold,  cover  with  melted  fat,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  It  should  not  be  used 
within  a  day  or  so  of  making,  and  if  kept  for  a  time,  pork  should  be  used  instead  of 
the  veal,  and  in  the  same  proportion. 


4io  COLD  DISHES. 

Potted    Larks. 

Carefully  pick,  singe  and  draw  the  required  number  of  larks,  dry  them,  sprinkle 
plentifully  inside  and  out  with  pepper,  salt  and  pounded  mace,  place  them  in  stone 
jars  with  a  piece  of  butter,  tie  down  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked, 
take  the  larks  out  of  the  gravy,  put  them  into  potting  jars,  pour  clarified  butter  over, 
cover  them  with  stout  paper,  tie  them  down  tightly  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  closet 
until  required  for  use. 

Potted   Liver. 

Put  the  required  amount  of  any  kind  of  liver  with  a  little  highly  seasoned  stock 
into  a  stewpan  and  braise  it.  When  done  and  quite  tender,  cut  it  up  very  fine  and 
put  it  into  a  mortar  and  pound  to  a  paste,  adding  enough  of  the  stock  to  moisten. 
Melt,  strain  and  add  to  the  paste  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
ground  allspice  and  mace,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair-sieve ;  then  place  it 
in  jars,  cover  with  melted  butter,  and  stand  the  jars  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted. 
Poultry  livers  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner ;  if  truffles  or  mushrooms  are 
added  they  are  very  good  imitations  of  foies  gras. 

Potted   Lobster. 

Procure  a  large  cooked  lobster  or  two  small  ones,  pick  out  all  the  meat  and  place 
it  with  the  spawn  in  the  mortar,  pound  it  to  a  paste,  then  mix  with  it  one-fourth 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  pounded  mace  and  cloves,  pepper,  salt  and  grated  nut- 
meg. When  thoroughly  mixed  fill  some  jars  with  the  preparation,  press  it  down 
tightly,  leaving  about  one-fourth  inch  space  at  the  top,  and  fill  it  up  with  clarified 
butter.  When  quite  cold  tie  the  jars  over  with  white  paper,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry 
closet  until  required  for  use. 

Potted   Mackerel. 

Clean  the  mackerel  well,  dry  it,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  place  it  in 
a  baking-dish  with  mixed  spice,  a  couple  of  bay  leaves  and  a  little  butter  ;  bake  it  in 
the  oven,  and  when  sufficiently  done  take  it  out  and  allow  it  to  cool,  Then  bone  and 
lay  the  meat  in  pots,  and  pour  over  enough  melted  butter  to  cover. 

Potted   Mushrooms. 

Large  button  mushrooms  without  any  brown  color  inside  them  should  be  used, 
and  about  two  quarts  will  be  enough.  Peel  and  remove  the  fur  from  the  larger  ones, 
put  them  all  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  dram  of  powdered  mace,  two  drams  of 
white  pepper  and  eight  powdered  cloves;  place  the  pan  over  the  fire  and  shake  and 
toss  it  until  the  liquor  from  the  mushrooms  has  all  dried  up.  Then  add  two  ounces 


COLD  DISHES.  411 

of  butter  and  cook  until  the  mushrooms  are  well  done;  drain  off  the  butter  and  leave 
until  quite  cold.  Pack  the  mushrooms  closely  in  an  earthenware  pot,  pour  over  some 
warmed  butter,  cover  with  white  paper,  over  this  pour  clarified  beef  suet  to  exclude 
the  air,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted. 

Potted  Mutton. 

Chop  up  some  cold  cooked  mutton,  remove  all  the  skin  and  sinew,  and  pound  it 
in  a  mortar  with  half  its  bulk  of  cooked  bacon.  Season  with  allspice,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  place  it  in  a  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  till  the  mass  is  warmed  quite 
through.  Take  out  the  jar,  stir  frequently  until  the  meat  is  nearly  cold,  squeeze  it 
into  small  pots,  let  it  remain  for  a  day,  then  cover  with  clarified  butter  or  hot  mutton 
suet  so  as  to  exclude  the  air. 

Potted   Partridges. 

Mix  together  the  following  spices:  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  one-half 
teaspoonful  each  of  ground  mace,  allspice  and  white  pepper,  one-half  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  small  quantity  each  of  nutmeg  and  cayenne  pepper.  Prepare  the  part- 
ridges as  for  roasting,  season  them  both  inside  and  out  with  the  spices,  and  truss 
them.  Put  a  thick  layer  of  vine  leaves  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  the  birds  in 
breasts  downwards,  and  cover  them  with  clarified  butter;  cover  and  cook  over  a  slow 
fire.  When  cooked  take  them  out  and  drain  well.  Clarify  their  cooking  butter  and 
let  it  get  cold,  then  take  the  solid  butter  that  is  free  from  the  gravy  and  melt  it  again. 
Put  the  birds  in  jars,  pour  the  warmed  butter  over  them,  and  when  it  has  cooled  again 
tie  parchment  over  the  jars.  Should  it  be  required  to  keep  them  longer  than  a  week 
pour  melted  paraffin  wax  over  them. 

Potted  Pheasant. 

Pluck  and  draw  the  pheasant,  wipe  it  clean  with  a  damp  cloth,  singe  it,  and  season 
the  inside  with  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  beaten  mace  and  grated  nutmeg.  Break  the 
breastbones  and  flatten  them  down.  Put  the  bird  in  an  earthen  bowl  with  a  large 
lump  of  butter,  and  bake  it  for  one  hour.  When  cooled,  drain  the  pheasant,  and 
leave  it  till  cold ;  then  put  it  in  a  large  jar,  the  breast  downwards,  and  pour  in  clarified 
butter  to  one-half  inch  in  thickness.  Tie  paper  over  the  jar,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place. 

Potted  Pigeons. 

Boil  the  livers  and  gizzards  of  some  pigeons  until  tender,  drain  and  chop  them 
fine,  make  them  into  a  forcemeat  with  grated  ham,  breadcrumbs,  the  yolk  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg,  and  a  seasoning  of  herbs.  Stuff  the  pigeons  with  the  forcemeat,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  an  onion,  one-half  pint  of  white  wine,  and  the  liquor  in 
which  the  gizzards  were  stewed,  add  one  ounce  of  butter  that  has  been  kneaded  with 


412  COLD  DISHES. 

a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  cook  slowly  till  tender.  When  cooked  pack  the  pigeons 
in  suitable  pots  ;  strain  their  cooking  liquor,  return  it  to  the  saucepan  and  boil  quickly 
for  a  few  minutes  ;  then  pour  a  little  of  it  over  the  birds  to  level  up,  and  when  cold, 
cover  the  contents  with  warmed  clarified  butter. 


Potted  Pig's  Head. 


Clean  a  pig's  head  thoroughly,  washing  it  in  strong  salt  and  water  ;  put  it  n  a 
saucepan  with  plenty  of  water,  and  boil  slowly.  When  very  tender,  so  that  the 
bones  can  be  easily  removed,  drain  the  head,  separate  all  the  meat  from  the  bones, 
and  pass  the  cooking  liquor  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  When  the  liquor  is  quite  cold, 
skim  off  the  fat  and  pour  the  liquor  into  a  saucepan,  being  careful  not  to  disturb  the 
sediment.  Cut  the  meat  in  medium-sized  pieces,  put  it  in  with  the  liquor,  and  boil 
for  half  an  hour,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  Jamaica  pepper. 
Pour  the  meat  and  liquor  into  moulds,  leave  until  cold.  Then  tie  stout  paper  over 
the  tops.  It  may  be  kept  for  six  weeks  in  a  cool  cupboard. 

Potted   Pork. 

Cut  into  nice-sized  pieces  a  couple  of  pounds  of  lean  pork  and  line  an  earthen- 
ware jar  with  chopped  beef-suet,  put  the  pieces  of  meat  in,  with  a  piece  of  mace  and 
dust  over  with  salt  and  pepper;  pour  in  one  and  a  half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  and 
cover  over  with  chopped  suet.  Tie  a  stout  piece  of  paper  very  tightly  over  the  jar 
and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours,  then  remove  the  jar  and  leave  it  until 
the  following  day.  Take  the.  pieces  of  pork  out  of  the  jar,  place  them  in  a  mortar 
and  pound  them  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding  salt  and  pepper  if  necessary,  together  with 
any  other  seasoning  that  may  be  liked;  press  the  meat  into  small  jars,  leaving  about 
half  an  inch  space  at  the  top  of  each,  which  fill  up  with  clarified  suet;  tie  the  jars  over 
and  place  them  in  dry  cupboards  until  required  for  use. 

Potted     Rabbit. 

Draw,  skin  and  clean  two  or  three  young  rabbits,  chop  off  the  hind  legs  at  the 
thigh,  and  put  them  together  with  all  the  flesh  into  a  saucepan,  packing  them  in 
as  tightly  as  possible  and  sprinkling  them  with  powdered  mace  and  allspice,  pepper, 
salt  and  cayenne  to  taste.  Place  several  large  lumps  of  butter  on  the  top,  which  should 
be  as  flat  as  possible,  cover  with  the  lid,  put  the  saucepan  in  a  slow  oven  and  bake 
gently  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  Allow  the  meat  to  remain  in  the  pan  for  two  or 
three  days,  then  put  it  into  pots,  cover  the  tops  with  hot  butter,  let  this  cool  and 
the  meat  is  then  ready  for  use.  The  livers  may  also  be  added  if  desired  and  are 
an  improvement. 


COLD  DISHES.  413 

Potted   Reed  Birds. 

Take  the  butter  off  the  top  of  the  potted  birds,  throw  them,  one  at  a  time,  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  leave  them  for  half  a  minute,  then  remove  and  dry 
them  thoroughly  both  inside  and  out.  When  all  the  birds  have  thus  been  treated 
leave  them  until  quite  cold;  then  season  them  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  mace, 
pack  them  closely  in  jars  and  pour  clarified  butter  on  the  top.  When  potted  birds 
are  sent  a  long  way  the  odor  is  often  so  bad  as  to  be  unendurable  from  the  rankness 
of  the  butter.  If  prepared  as  described  above  they  will  be  as  though  freshly  potted. 

Potted   Salmon. 

Select  a  piece  of  salmon,  but  do  not  wash  it;  wipe  it  very  dry  and  scale  it. 
Place  it  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  salt  over,  and  rub  it  in  well.  Let  the  fish  remain  in  the 
salt  until  the  latter  has  all  melted  and  drained  away,  the  dish  being  placed  in  a  slightly 
sloping  position  so  that  it  may  drain  off  as  it  dissolves.  When  ready  place  the  fish  in 
a  deep  bakingpan,  together  with  a  seasoning  of  bruised  mace,  cloves,  whole  peppers, 
and  three  or  four  bay  leaves;  put  plenty  of  butter  over  it,  cover  the  pan  closely,  and 
bake  the  salmon.  When  well  done,  drain  the  fish  from  the  liquor,  press  it  into  pots, 
and  allow  it  to  become  quite  cold;  then  pour  into  each  pot  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  clarified  butter  to  cover. 

Potted  Shrimps. 

Pick  some  shrimps  from  their  shells,  season  them  to  taste  with  salt  and  cayenne, 
and  pack  them  tightly  in  pots.  Have  some  butter  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and 
when  it  boils,  pour  it  over  the  shrimps  until  they  are  quite  covered  and  the  pots 
nearly  filled;  allow  them  to  get  quite  cold,  then  pour  over  the  top  boiling  butter  and 
lard  mixed  so  that  the  air  cannot  reach  the  butter  first  poured  in.  The  shrimps  may 
be  pounded  and  softened  with  butter,  then  pressed  into  a  shallow  jar,  and  covered 
with  oiled  butter. 

Potted  Tongue. 

Rub  a  beef  tongue  well  with  one-fourth  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  one  ounce  of 
saltpeter.  Leave  it  for  two  days;  then  boil  it  until  it  is  tender.  Drain  and  skin  the 
tongue,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and  pound  them  to  a  smooth  paste  in  a  mortar  with 
one  pound  of  clarified  butter.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  a  small 
quantity  of  pounded  mace.  Press  the  paste  into  small  jars,  cover  with  parchment, 
and  tie  them  down. 

Potted   Trout. 

Clean  one  dozen  or  so  of  small  trout,  wash  well,  dry  on  a  cloth,  sprinkle  them 
over  with  one  ounce  of  white  pepper,  half  that  quantity  of  powdered  cloves,  one- 
fourth  ounce  of  cayenne  and  a  small  quantity  of  mace.  Put  the  trout,  backs  down- 


4i4  COLD  DISHES. 

ward,  into  an  earthenware  jar  or  pot,  pour  over  two  pounds  or  so  of  clarified  butter, 
place  the  jar  in  a  slack  oven  and  bake  for  about  four  hours.  When  done  take  it  out 
and  the  fish  are  ready  for  use. 

Potted  Turkey. 

Draw  and  singe  a  turkey  and  bone  it.  Cut  the  flesh  off  the  thighs,  trim  off  all 
the  sinews  and  chop  it  fine.  Chop  one  pound  of  fat  bacon  and  one-half  pound  of 
lean  veal,  mix  them  with  the  chopped  turkey  flesh,  season  with  salt  and  spices  and 
pound  the  whole  in  a  mortar.  Lard  the  breasts  of  the  turkey  with  the  seasoned 
strips  of  fat  bacon.  Place  a  layer  of  the  pounded  mixture  of  forcemeat  at  the  bottom 
of  a  potting  jar.  Spread  out  the  turkey,  skin  downward,  dust  it  over  with  spices  and 
salt,  cover  the  inside  with  a  layer  of  forcemeat,  roll  the  bird  up,  place  it  in  the  jar, 
spread  the  remaining  forcemeat  over  it,  put  some  thin  rashers  of  fat  bacon  and  a  bay 
leaf  on  top  and  place  the  cover  on  the  jar.  Stand  the  jar  in  a  large  stewpan,  pour  in 
water  to  about  one-third  its  height,  place  the  stewpan  in  the  oven  and  cook  the  turkey 
for  about  three  hours.  When  cooked  remove  the  jar  from  the  oven,  leave  it  until 
cold,  then  cover  the  contents  with  a  layer  of  poultry  dripping.  The  turkey  should 
not  be  served  until  two  days  or  more  after  it  has  been  potted. 

Potted   Turkey    Livers. 

Prepare  three  or  four  turkey  livers,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  together  with  some 
very  fat  bacon  and  fry  them  until  they  commence  to  brown;  then  put  in  with  them 
one  clove  of  garlic,  one  bay  leaf,  four  or  five  cloves  and  one-half  saltspoonful  of 
pepper.  Pour  in  one-half  pint  of  red  wine  and  leave  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  until 
the  liquor  boils;  then  remove  it  to  the  side  and  keep  the  contents  simmering  for 
thirty  minutes  or  more;  take  the  livers  out  of  the  stewpan,  put  them  in  a  mortar  with 
half  their  quantity  of  fresh  butter  and  pound  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding  more  season- 
ing if  required.  Press  the  pounded  liver  into  small  jars,  leaving  a  space  about  one- 
third  of  an  inch  at  the  top,  which  fill  up  with  turkey  fat  or  clarified  butter.  Cover 
the  jars  with  paper  and  tie  them  down  securely  with  twine.  Keep  them  in  a  dry 
store  cupboard  for  further  use. 

Potted   Veal. 

Take  a  cutlet  of  fillet  of  veal  weighing  nearly  a  pound,  season  to  taste  with  pep- 
percorns, mace  and  cloves,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  that  will  only  just  hold  it,  fill  up 
the  pan  with  water  and  bake  for  three  hours.  Place  it  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it  fine, 
with  salt  to  taste  and  about  two  ounces  of  butter  slightly  warmed.  If  it  be  for  im- 
mediate use,  a  little  of  the  gravy  it  was  baked  in  may  be  used  to  moisten  it  in  the  mor- 
tar; if  it  is  to  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time,  do  not  use  anything  but  butter.  When 
beaten  to  a  fine  smooth  paste,  put  it  into  pots  and  pour  over  sufficient  butter  melted 
to  oil  to  cover  it  to  a  depth  of  about  one-fifth  of  an  inch. 


COLD  DISHES.  415 

Potted   Venison. 

Cut  some  cold  cooked  venison  into  thin  slices.  Put  one-half  pound  of  butter 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  small  quantity  of  spices,  such  as  cloves,  grated  nutmeg  and 
white  pepper,  and  place  it  over  the  fire.  When  melted,  put  in  the  meat,  and  for  every 
pound  add  one  tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly  and  one  wineglassful  of  red  wine. 
Allow  the  meat  to  simmer  in  the  butter  for  twenty  minutes,  then  remove  it,  mince  it 
fine  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar.  When  quite  smooth,  pass  the  meat  through  a  fine 
sieve  and  mix  the  cooking-butter  arid  gravy  with  it.  Pack  it  in  small  jars  and  press 
it  down  tightly,  leaving  a  clear  one-fourth  inch  space  at  the  top.  Fill  the  jars  with 
clarified  butter,  and  when  it  is  cold,  tie  the  jars  over  tightly  and  put  them  away  for 
use. 

Pressed   Chicken. 

Put  a  chicken  into  a  saucepan  with  a  very  little  water  and  boil  until  the  bones 
slip  out  and  the  gristly  parts  are  quite  soft.  Take  off  the  skin  and  pull  the  meat  to 
pieces,  mixing  the  dark-colored  and  white  meat  together.  Skim  the  fat  off  the 
liquor  and  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  lemon-juice  and  celery  salt,  and  reduce  to 
half  a  pint,  then  mix  it  in  with  the  meat.  Butter  a  mould  and  decorate  the  bottom  and 
sides  with  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices  and  small  fancy-shaped  pieces  of  tongue  or 
ham;  pack  the  meat  in  tightly,  put  a  weight  on  the  top  and  let  it  remain  in  a  cold 
place  until  wanted.  Turn  them  out  and  garnish  with  parsley,  lettuce  leaves,  celery 
branches,  radishes  or  beet-roots  cut  into  various  shapes. 


Salmon   Montpelier. 


Cut  about  eight  pounds  from  the  middle  of  a  large  salmon,  put  it  into  a  braising- 
pan  with  a  few  sliced  carrots  and  onions,  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  a  bunch  of 
thyme,  basil,  and  half  a  dozen  bay  leaves,  three  quarts  of  stock,  two  quarts  of  water, 
and  one-half  bottle  of  chablis.  Place  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the  liquor  begins  to 
boil,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  simmer  it  gently  for  an  hour.  Blanch  in  equal 
quantities  some  chives  and  parsley,  place  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  or  two  boned 
anchovies,  and  pound  them  well  together  with  four  ounces  of  butter  and  a  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  pepper.  When  quite  smooth  place  the  mixture  on  a  plate,  and 
set  it  on  the  ice.  When  the  salmon  is  cooked,  leave  it  in  the  liquor  until  cold,  then 
drain  it  and  spread  the  above  mixture  over  on  both  sides.  Place  it  on  an  oval  dish, 
decorate  it  with  lobster  spawn,  garnish  the  dish  with  truffles,  parsley,  chopped  whites 
of  eggs,  and  croutons  of  aspic  jelly;  fill  up  the  cavity  in  the  body  of  the  salmon  with 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Terrine   of  Chicken   Livers. 

Peel  four  or  five  large  truffles,  cut  them  into  dice  and  put  them  in  a  basin  with 
six  ounces  of  cooked  fat  bacon  also  cut  into  dice  and  the  livers  of  ten  or  twelve  fat 


4i6  COLD  DISHES. 

chickens;  sprinkle  salt,  spices  and  powdered  sweet  herbs  over,  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  Madeira  wine.  Cut  half  a  calf's  liver  in  thin  slices,  fry  it  in  a  little  melted  bacon 
fat  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallots  and  the  trimmings  of  the  truffles  and 
sprinkle  pepper  and  salt  over  them.  When  the  slices  of  liver  are  well  set,  pour  in 
one  teacupful  of  Madeira;  keep  it  on  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  take  it 
off.  When  cold  pound  the  liver.  Chop  and  pound  an  equal  quantity  of  fat  bacon, 
mix  it  with  the  pounded  liver,  season  well  with  pepper,  salt  and  mixed  spices,  and 
pass  all  through  a  sieve.  Line  a  terrine  at  the  bottom  and  all  round  the  sides  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  pork,  spread  over  some  of  the  liver  forcemeat,  fill  the  dish  with  the 
livers,  truffles  and  pork  and  alternate  layers  of  the  forcemeat;  put  some  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon  on  the  top,  put  on  the  lid,  stand  it  in  a  baking-dish  and  bake  it  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  two  hours,  basting  occasionally  with  the  fat  that  runs  over  into  the 
baking-dish  underneath.  When  cooked,  take  the  terrine  out,  lift  off  the  lid,  put  a 
wooden  weight  on  the  top,  and  let  it  cool.  When  ready  to  serve  turn  the  preparation 
out  of  the  terrine,  and  cut  it  up.  Clean  the  terrine,  put  it  on  a  dish,  fill  it  with  the 
cut  up  pieces,  arranging  them  to  come  dome-shaped  on  top,  and  place  around  some 
croutons  of  aspic  jelly. 

Terrine   of  Partridge. 

Empty  two  partridges,  bone  them,  cut  them  in  two  lengthwise,  put  them  in  a 
fryingpan  with  a  little  bacon  fat,  and  fry  them  lightly  till  the  flesh  is  set,  then 
take  them  out.  Cut  the  half  of  a  calf's  liver  in  slices,  fry  it  quickly  in  a  little 
bacon  fat,  with  a  little  chopped  onion,  a  sprinkling  of  fine  herbs,  and  two  or  three 
pieces  of  raw  ham.  When  cold  put  the  liver  in  a  mortar,  pound  it,  then  pass  it 
through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  half  as  much  pork  and  bacon  as  there  is  liver  in 
the  mortar  to  pound,  then  mix  it  with  the  liver,  and  season  well  with  mixed 
spices,  salt  and  pepper.  Line  a  terrine  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  then  fill  it 
with  the  halves  of  the  partridges  and  the  forcemeat,  add  some  sweet  herbs  and 
a  little  Madeira;  put  a  layer  of  forcemeat  on  the  top.  Cover  with  a  flat  of  paste, 
put  it  in  the  oven,  and  bake  it  for  two  hours,  basting  it  occasionally.  When 
cooked,  take  the  flat  of  paste  off,  put  a  light  weight  on  the  terrine,  and  let  it 
cool;  then  take  the  fat  off,  and  cut  the  preparation  up.  Wipe  and  fix  the  terrine 
on  a  dish,  garnish  round  the  base  with  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish- 
paper,  and  serve. 

Terrine   of  Veal. 

Trim  a  white  cushion  of  veal,  lard  it  with  ham  and  raw  truffles,  and  sprinkle 
it  well  with  pepper,  salt  and  spices.  Chop  the  trimmings  of  the  veal  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  lean  fresh  pork  and  mix  with  them  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped 
fresh  bacon  and  the  trimmings  of  the  truffles.  Pound  the  mixture  in  a  mortar, 
pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
mix  in  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira.  Line  a  pie-terrine  with  thin 


COLD  DISHES. 

layers  of  bacon,  place  a  layer  of  prepared  forcemeat  at  the  bottom  of  it,  then 
put  in  the  larded  cushion  of  veal  and  surround  and  cover  it  with  the  forcemeat, 
building  it  on  the  top  in  the  shape  of  a  dome.  Stand  the  terrine  in  a  baking- 
dish  and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  Baste  the  terrine  frequently,  and  in  an 
hour's  time  pour  a  little  warm  water  in  the  pan  and  bake  it  for  an  hour  and  a 
half  longer.  When  cooked,  remove  the  terrine  from  the  oven  and  leave  it  for  an 
hour  and  a  half,  then  place  a  light  weight  on  the  top  and  leave  till  cool.  Take 
the  top  off  the  terrine,  remove  the  meat,  cut  it  into  slices,  and  place  it  back 
again.  Stand  the  terrine  on  a  round  dish,  garnish  it  with  croutons  of  aspic  jelly, 
and  serve. 


Cold   Beef  Tongue. 


Boil  a  tongue  for  three  hours;  when  cooked  skin  it,  trim  off  the  rough  parts  of 
the  root  and  truss  it  in  good  shape  by  placing  the  root  against  some  fixture  and  run- 
ning a  fork  through  the  thin  end  into  the  table  or  board;  when  cold  finish  trimming 
the  tongue;  place  it  on  a  dish,  fix  a  frilled  paper  round  the  roots  with  skewers,  wet  it 
with  a  little  hot  jelly  and  garnish  with  parsley  and  chopped  aspic.  An  imitation  scal- 
lop shell  may  be  carved  on  the  tongue,  commencing  at  the  thin  end  and  ending  with 
the  thick.  Glaze  it  well  with  light  glaze,  spread  a  thick  layer  of  aspic  jelly  over 
the  tongue,  and  garnish  it  on  the  dish  with  skewers  garnished  with  jelly  and  mush- 
rooms. 

Cold   Calf's   Tongue   with   Macedoine. 

Place  six  pickled  tongues  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  boil  them  until 
tender.  Take  them  out,  remove  the  skins,  put  them  between  two  dishes  and  let  them 
remain  with  a  weight  on  the  top  until  cold.  Round  them  off  at  the  root  end,  cut 
them  flat  at  the  sides  and  divide  lengthwise  in  halves.  Glaze  with  a  pastebrush  and 
mask  with  a  thin  layer  of  half-set  aspic  jelly  to  give  a  relief.  In  the  meantime 
prepare  a  macedoine  with  carrots  and  potatoes  formed  in  the  shape  of  balls,  Brussels 
sprouts,  flowerets  of  cauliflowers,  green  or  asparagus  peas  and  French  beans  cut  in 
diamond  shapes.  All  of  these  vegetables  must  be  blanched  separately,  well-seasoned 
and  put  in  little  piles  of  symmetrical  size  in  the  center  of  a  dish.  Arrange  the  halves 
of  tongue  round,  with  the  points  upwards,  pour  around  a  small  quantity  of  aspic  jelly 
and  serve  with  tartar  or  ravigote  sauce  in  a  sauceboat. 


Salads 

Salads. 

Compound  salads  will  be  found  described  under  their  particular  headings,  such 
as  Anchovy,  Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Cress,  etc.  Other  recipes  are  dealt  with  in  the 
following  list. 

The  simplest  form  of  salad  would  be  made  by  wiping  perfectly  dry  a  few  leaves 
of  lettuce,  cutting  them  into  broad  shreds,  and  then  dressing  them  as  follows  : 

Place  the  lettuce  in  a  deep  salad  bowl  fitted  with  a  pair  of  servers,  one  partaking 
of  the  character  of  a  spoon,  and  the  other  that  of  a  fork.  Supposing  the  bowl  to  be 
about  two-thirds  full  of  the  lettuce,  and  having  ascertained  that  it  is  carefully  dried, 
pour  into  the  spoon  four  charges  of  the  best  lucca  oil,  and  stir  this  freely  into  the 
leaves,  stirring  vigorously  with  both  servers.  Then  dust  in  enough  salt  to  season 
nicely ;  pour  into  the  spoon  about  one  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  fill  the  spoon 
up  with  the  best  malt  vinegar,  and  stir  this  in  briskly.  The  salad  is  then  ready  to  be 
served. 

Salad   Dressing. 

(i).  Put  the  cold  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  into  a  basin,  mash  them  until 
they  are  quite  smooth,  add  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  made  mustard,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  half  that  quantity  of  pepper;  mix  together  well,  add  by 
degrees  one  tablespoonful  of  cream  and  vinegar,  and,  when  well  incorporated,  add 
one  tablespoonful  each  of  salad  oil  and  vinegar,  and  one  dessertspoonful  of  tarra- 
gon vinegar.  When  well  mixed  it  is  ready  for  use. 

(2.)  Put  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  into  a  basin  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  beat  them  well ;  then  add,  a  drop  at  a  time,  one  pint  of  the  best  salad-oil. 
When  the  oil  is  well  mixed  with  the  eggs,  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard, 
one  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  of  chili  vinegar,  and  three 
or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  plain  vinegar.  Beat  together  until  all  these  ingredients  are 
well  incorporated,  then  add  a  small  quantity  each  of  sugar  and  cayenne  pepper. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  a  bottle,  and  keep  it  tightly  corked  until  wanted. 


Cream    Salad    Dressing. 


Beat  two  or  three  raw  eggs  well,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one-half  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  the  same  of  mustard,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  finally  one 
tablespoonful  of  cream.  Put  the  dish  containing  these  into  a  basin  of  boiling  water 

418 


SALADS.  419 

and  stir  until  the  mixture  becomes  as  thick  as  rich  cream.  The  water  in  the  bowl 
should  be  kept  boiling  all  the  time  and  it  will  then  only  take  about  five  minutes  to 
finish  it.  Remove  the  basin  and  allow  it  to  get  cool,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Cream    Dressing   for   Cucumber   Salad. 

To  make  this  salad  a  success  have  some  sour  cream.  Take  five  tablespoonfuls 
of  sour  cream,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  one 
pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  hashed  up  chives;  mix  it  well,  so  that  the 
paprika  does  not  form  little  balls.  When  well  mixed,  add  it  to  the  cucumbers, 
and  serve. 

Anchovy  Salad. 

Fillet  some  anchovies  and  shred  them  lengthwise.  Arrange  them  tastefully 
upon  a  small  plate  and  garnish  with  groups  of  chopped  hard  eggs,  chopped  pars- 
ley and  onions,  ornamented  with  whole  capers.  Pour  salad  oil  or  oil  and  vinegar 
over  the  whole,  and  serve. 

Asparagus    Salad,    German    Style. 

Take  sufficient  cold  boiled  asparagus  points  and  place  in  a  basin  with  one- 
third  of  their  quantity  of  crayfish  tails.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pass  through 
a  sieve  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  hard-boiled  eggs  and  beat  up  with  a  little  oil, 
vinegar  and  salt  to  the  consistency  of  cream.  Pour  this  over  the  asparagus  mix- 
ture and  serve  in  a  salad  bowl.  Almost  any  cold  shellfish  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  crayfish  if  desired. 

Bacon    Salad. 

Cut  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  into  small  squares,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan 
and  fry  them  until  lightly  browned.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  mix  in 
one-third  vinegar  to  two-thirds  bacon  oil.  Prepare  a  salad  by  chopping  up  what- 
ever green  meats  happen  to  be  at  hand,  season  it  and  pour  the  bacon  sauce  over 
it;  if  the  pieces  of  bacon  are  not  wanted  strain  the  sauce  through  a  strainer. 
Beaten  eggs  may  be  added  to  the  bacon  fat  if  desired.  They  should  be  stirred 
into  it  while  over  the  fire  till  the  dressing  is  thick,  then  allow  the  mixture  to 
become  cool  before  pouring  it  over  the  salad. 

Beef  Salad. 

Take  some  lean  cold  boiled  beef  (the  rump  is  preferable),  remove  all  the 
fat  and  cut  into  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length  as  thinly  as  possible.  Put 
the  pieces  in  a  bowl,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  two  cooked  and  sliced  pota- 


420  SALADS. 

toes,  a  little  parsley,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  some  sweet  oil.  Com- 
pound well  and  arrange  in  a  salad  bowl,  garnish  with  some  pickles  or  beets,  and 
serve. 

Beet-Root  Salad. 

This  may  be  made  with  slices  of  cold  beet-root  arranged  on  a  dish  with  ordinary 
salad  dressing  poured  over  them;  or  the  slices  of  beet-root  may  be  alternated  with 
siles  of  hard-boiled  eggs.  Over  this  latter  mixture,  pour  a  dressing  consisting  of  oil 
and  vinegar  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  and  garnish  with  a  few  pickled  mushrooms, 
small  onions  and  horseradish. 

Bohemian   Salad. 

Wash  and  dry  well  some  lettuces,  cut  them  into  shreds  and  put  them  in  a  salad- 
bowl  with  some  slices  of  beet-root  on  the  top.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  with 
a  small  quantity  of  chopped  onion,  salt  and  mustard;  when  well-beaten,  add  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  a  little  at  a  time,  beating  well. 
Pour  this  dressing  over  the  lettuce,  and  serve  at  once. 

Brunswick    Salad. 

Peel  and  cut  a  fresh  celeryroot  into  fine  shreds  and  soak  it  in  water  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.  Peel  and  boil  four  truffles  for  three  minutes  in  a  little  Madeira  wine. 
Rub  the  inside  of  a  basin  with  a  clove  of  garlic,  put  in  it  the  yolks  of  four  or  five 
hard-boiled  eggs  and  mash  them  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  spoon;  then  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  one  teacupful  of  oil  and  a  small  quantity  of  vinegar.  Drain  the 
celery  roots  and  truffles  and  mix  them  with  the  eggs.  Season  the  salad,  turn  it  into  a 
salad-bowl,  sprinkle  over  a  small  quantity  of  chopped  tarragon  and  cloves,  and  serve. 

Red  Cabbage  and  Celery  Salad. 

Procure  a  firm,  close,  red  cabbage,  trim  off  all  the  outside  leaves,  cut  into  four 
pieces,  washing  in  plenty  of  water,  and  drain  ;  break  the  leaves  apart,  remove  the 
stalks  and  ribs,  and  cut  the  rest  into  shreds.  The  heart  and  white  sticks  of  two 
heads  of  celery  should  be  cut  into  pieces,  and  mixed  with  the  cabbage  in  a  salad- 
bowl,  garnish  the  salad  with  young  green  tops  of  celery,  and  serve  with  a  dressing 
poured  over  it,  which  is  prepared  as  follows  :  Beat  one  egg  and  mix  in  gradually  a 
tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  cas- 
ter sugar  and  dry  mustard.  Season  with  a  little  salt. 


White  Cabbage  Salad. 


Procure  a  tender  white  cabbage,  cut  out  the  stalks  and  ribs,  and  place  a  number 
of  the  thinnest  leaves  together  and  cut  them  into  narrow  strips.      Cut  two  thin  rashers 


SALADS.  421 

of  bacon  into  small  squares,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  and  fry  them  until  they  com- 
mence to  color  ;  move  the  pan  off  the  fire,  pour  in  a  cupful  each  of  vinegar  and 
water,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  and  again  place  the  pan  over  the  fire,  stirring 
its  contents  until  quite  hot.  Throw  the  cabbage  lightly  into  a  salad-bowl,  and  serve, 
pouring  the  prepared  dressing  over  it. 

Cauliflower  Salad. 

Boil  one  large  cauliflower  for  half  an  hour  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  to 
which  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  has  been  added  ;  then  take  it  out  to  drain,  and  after 
it  is  cold  divide  it  into  small  branches.  Arrange  these  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  and 
garnish  the  edge  with  a  strip  of  pickled  beets.  Pour  cream  dressing  or  a  breakfast 
cupful  of  mayonnaise  dressing  over  the  cauliflower,  and  arrange  a  star  of  the  pickled 
beet  in  the  center.  Serve  it  as  quickly  as  possible  after  it  is  prepared. 

Celery   Salad. 

Pare  off  the  green  stalks  from  two  or  three  heads  of  celery,  trim  the  roots  and 
cut  them  into  short  shreds;  wash  them  thoroughly  in  cold  water,  lift  them  out  with 
the  hands,  and  drain  in  a  cloth.  When  well  drained  place  the  celery  in  a  salad-bowl 
and  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper,  and  one  or  two  salad 
teaspoonfuls  each  of  oil  and  vinegar.  Mix  well,  and  serve. 

Celery  Salad  with  Mayonnaise   Dressing. 

Prepare  the  celery  as  for  salad,  and  when  it  is  in  the  salad-bowl,  season  with  one- 
half  pinch  of  pepper,  one-half  pinch  of  salt,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Mayonnaise 
dressing.  Stir  well  just  prior  to  serving. 

Chicory  Salad. 

Pare  off  the  green  leaves  from  two  heads  of  white  endive  and  cut  away  the  roots; 
wash  thoroughly,  drain  well  on  a  napkin,  place  them  in  a  salad-bowl,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper  diluted  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  add  a  tablespoonful  and  a 
half  of  sweet  oil.  Mix  thoroughly  together,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Salad. 

Cut  the  flesh  of  a  cold  roasted  fowl  into  pieces ;  take  one  or  two  lettuces,  trim 
off  the  outside  leaves,  wash  the  remainder  thoroughly  and  dry  on  a  cloth.  Then  cut 
them  up  or  pull  them  to  pieces  with  the  fingers  and  put  them  in  a  salad-bowl  with 
the  pieces  of  fowl.  Skin  and  bone  three  anchovies,  cut  them  into  thin  strips  and  lay 
them  over  the  pieces  of  fowl.  Beat  an  egg  and  mix  it  with  one  heaped  teaspoon- 
ful  of  dry  mustard,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salad  oil  and  vinegar.  Season  the 


422  SALADS. 

dressing  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  sugar.  Pour  it  over  the  contents  of  the 
salad-bowl.  The  salad  should  be  served  immediately  after  the  dressing  is  poured 
over  it. 

Chiffonade  Salad. 

This  salad  consists  of  all  the  salads  in  season.  For  example,  lettuce,  romaine, 
chicory,  escarol,  tomato,  beets  and  celery  cut  in  long  slices. 

The  dressing  for  this  salad  is  made  as  follows:  Take  one  hard-boiled  egg  and 
mash  it  as  fine  as  possible  with  a  fork ;  then  add  two  pinches  of  paprika  and  a  pinch 
of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  a  teaspoonful  of  hashed  chives,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  hashed  estragon,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar.  Add  this  to  the  salad,  mix  it  well  together,  and  serve. 

Crab   Salad. 

Take  the  meat  from  the  shells  and  claws  of  a  dozen  small  crabs,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil, 
and  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Decorate  the  bowl  with  lettuce  leaves,  six  stoned 
olives,  twelve  capers,  and  two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  quarters.  It  is  then  ready  to 
be  served. 


Crayfish   Salad   with  Aspic. 


Choose  three  dozen  crayfish  and  boil  them;  when  done,  take  out  and  let  cool. 
Remove  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  tails,  place  it  in  a  basin,  add  a  little  seasoning, 
and  cover  with  oil  and  vinegar.  Remove  the  flesh  from  the  small  claws,  also  from 
the  trimmings  of  the  tails,  mix  them  into  a  lettuce  and  cress  salad  cut  up  into  shreds, 
season  with  salt  and  add  a  little  mayonnaise  sauce  to  thicken.  Take  a  plain  border 
mould  and  put  ice  all  round  it.  Then  divide  four  hard-boiled  eggs  into  halves,  dip 
them  on  one  side  only  into  a  little  half-set  aspic  jelly  and  put  them  into  the  mould  in 
an  upright  position  with  the  points  directed  to  the  bottom,  cutting  away  a  portion  of 
the  sides  to  the  shape  of  the  side  of  the  mould.  In  the  course  of  a  few  minutes  fill 
the  mould  up  with  aspic  jelly  and  allow  it  to  get  cold  and  set;  then  about  fifteen 
minutes  before  it  is  required,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  (quite  cold).  Arrange  the  salad 
in  the  form  of  a  pyramid  in  the  cavity  of  the  border.  Take  the  tails,  one  at  a  time, 
and  with  the  aid  of  a  larding-needle,  place  them  in  a  circle  on  the  salad.  Garnish 
an  attelette  skewer  with  a  truffle  and  put  it  in  the  top.  Serve  a  sauceboatful  of 
mayonnaise  sauce  with  this. 

Cress  Salad. 

Mix  together  equal  proportions  of  white  wine,  vinegar  and  salad  oil,  season  with 
a  small  quantity  of  moist  sugar  and  a  little  salt,  and  turn  it  into  a  salad-bowl.  Throw 
in  some  sprigs  of  watercress,  and  on  these  strew  lightly  the  leaves  of  young  nastur- 


SALADS. 


423 


tiums,  with  sufficient  garden-cress  to  fill  the  bowl.  Toss  this  well,  and  then  turn  it  out 
onto  a  large  dish.  Arrange  a  wreath  of  nasturtium  leaves  around  the  edge  of  the 
dish,  allowing  them  to  overlap  each  other,  then  put  an  inner  circle  of  the  flowers,  and 
in  that  a  circle  of  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs.  Serve  before  the  freshness  of  the  salad 
has  disappeared. 

Dandelion    Salad. 

Take  one  quart  of  white  dandelion,  pare  away  the  roots  and  stale  leaves  and 
wash  thoroughly  in  two  waters;  drain  on  a  cloth  and  place  in  a  salad-bowl.  Dilute  a 
pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  adding  one 
tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  sweet  oil.  Mix  thoroughtly,  pour  over  the  salad,  and  serve. 

Dandelion    Salad,    Contoise. 

Take  one  quart  of  white  dandelion,  pare  and  wash  well  using  several  waters, 
drain  on  a  cloth,  arrange  in  a  salad-bowl  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut 
into  dice-shaped  pieces  two  ounces  of  bacon  and  put  in  a  fryingpan  on  the  fire 
until  they  get  a  good  golden  color,  which  will  take  about  five  minutes,  and  add 
them  to  the  salad.  Pour  into  the  pan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  let  it 
heat  for  half  a  minute,  then  pour  it  over  all,  mix  well  together,  and  serve. 

Salad   Demi-Devil. 

Cut  in  slices  a  few  cooked  peeled  truffles  and  potatoes,  arrange  them  alternately 
in  a  salad-bowl  well  brushed  with  oil,  garnish  with  small  cooked  onions  and  stoned 
olives,  pour  over  a  mixture  of  oil  and  vinegar  or  oil  and  white  wine,  and  serve.  The 
salad  should  be  allowed  to  soak  for  at  least  two  hours  before  it  is  used. 

Dumas   Salad. 

Pound  together  a  very  small  quantity  of  anchovy  and  tunny  (about  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  each),  put  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  in  a  salad-bowl  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salad  oil  and  mash  it  to  a  smooth  paste;  then  mix  in  the  pounded  tunny 
and  anchovy  and  a  little  French  mustard.  Chop  fine  the  white  of  a  hard-boiled 
egg,  a  small  pickled  cucumber,  a  few  stalks  of  chervil  and  a  little  soy.  Mix  all  the 
ingredients  together  in  the  salad-bowl  with  one  wineglassful  of  wine  vinegar,  then 
arrange  tastefully  over  the  salad  a  few  slices  each  of  boiled  potatoes,  turnip-root  and 
beet-root  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  the  above  mixture  with  a 
fork,  then  serve  it.  The  above  salad  is  from  a  recipe  designed  and  used  by  Alex- 
ander Dumas. 

Dutch  Salad. 

Skin  and  bone  a  herring  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces;  wash  and  bone  eight  or  ten 
anchovies,  and  divide  them  into  eight  pieces  each.  Take  an  equal  quantity  each  of 


424  SALADS. 

cold  fowl  and  German  sausage  and  cut  them  into  small  square  pieces.  Chop  in  equal 
quantities  some  pickled  gherkins  and  beet-root,  and  cut  in  rather  large  pieces  twice  the 
quantity  of  cold  boiled  potatoes.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  except  the  anchovies  to- 
gether, with  one  or  two  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and  about  two  tablespoorifuls  of 
chopped  capers.  Prepare  a  dressing  with  two  parts  of  olive  oil  and  one  part  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  and  mix  with  it  smoothly  a  small  quantity  of  French  mustard,  seasoning  it  to 
taste  with  some  white  pepper.  Pour  the  dressing  over  the  salad,  and  serve  it. 

Egg  Salad. 

Boil  six  eggs  hard  and  leave  until  cold;  then  peel  and  cut  into  halves  length- 
wise, and  dust  a  small  quantity  of  pepper,  salt  and  cayenne  over  each  half  of  egg, 
and  pour  over  it  a  few  drops  of  oil  and  vinegar.  Take  small  quantities  and  chop  to- 
gether, of  chervil,  chives  and  tarragon  leaves;  place  them  in  the  center  of 'the  dish, 
and  arrange  the  halves  of  egg  around  this.  Wash,  drain  and  chop  a  few  young  let- 
tuce leaves,  place  them  around  the  eggs,  and  serve. 

Eggs  and  Beet-Root  Salad. 

Take  some  cooked  beet-roots,  peel,  slice  and  put  in  a  pan  with  a  few  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  olive  oil  and  toss  them  about  over  a  brisk  fire  until  hot.  In  another  pan  poach 
some  new-laid  eggs  and  trim  them.  Pile  the  slices  of  beet-root  in  the  center  of  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  around  with  the  eggs,  dredge  them  lightly  with  pepper,  squeeze  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  over,  and  serve  at  once.  This  makes  a  very  good  breakfast  dish, 
and  takes  but  little  time  to  prepare. 

French   Salad. 

Chop  fine  a  bunch  of  parsley,  two  shallots  and  half  a  dozen  anchovies;  lay  them 
in  a  bowl  and  mix  with  them  salt  and  mustard  to  taste,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salad 
oil  and  one  gill  of  vinegar.  Stir  all  well  together  and  then  add,  two  or  three  at  a  time, 
some  very  thin  slices  of  cold  roasted  or  boiled  meat,  not  more  than  three  or  four  inches 
long.  Shake  the  slices  well  in  the  dressing  as  they  are  put  in.  Cover  the  bowl  closely 
and  let  the  salad  stand  for  three  hours.  Serve  garnished  with  parsley  and  some 
slices  of  fat  meat. 

Game  Salad. 

Take  the  required  quantity  and  chop  separately  beet-roots,  carrots  and  whites  of 
hard-boiled  eggs.  Rub  the  bottom  of  a  salad-bowl  with  onion  and  pour  over  a  little 
lemon  juice.  Chop  arid  pound  some  watercresses,  mix  them  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  butter  and  form  into  small  balls;  repeat  the  operation  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  chopped  carrot  and  two  ounces  of  butter.  Put  some  slices  of  cold  cooked 
game  at  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  decorate  with  the  chopped  vegetables,  including  a  good 


SALADS.  425 

supply  of  lettuce  leaves  and  other  vegetables  in  season,  pour  over  a  tartar  sauce, 
sprinkle  over  the  chopped  egg,  over  this  put  a  few  slices  of  beet-root,  decorate  the 
edge  of  the  dish  with  the  balls  of  butter,  pour  round  a  mayonnaise  dressing,  and  serve. 

Green    Pea  Salad. 

Shell  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  peas,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  but- 
ter the  size  of  an  egg  and  a  very  little  water  and  boil  slowly  until  tender,  stirring  con- 
stantly. When  done  take  them  off  the  fire  and  leave  them  until  cold.  Thoroughly 
wash  and  drain  a  nice  lettuce,  pull  the  leaves  apart  and  put  them  into  a  salad-bowl. 
Chop  some  cold  remains  of  roast  lamb  or  other  cold  meat,  spread  it  over  the  top  of 
the  lettuce  and  pour  the  peas  over.  Prepare  a  plain  salad-dressing  with  oil,  vinegar, 
a  few  chopped  tarragon  and  mint  leaves,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Pour  the 
dressing  over  the  salad,  toss  it  lightly,  and  serve. 

Salted   Herring  Salad. 

Cut  off  the  heads  and  cut  down  the  backs  of  some  salted  herrings,  take  out  the 
bones  carefully,  remove  the  fillets,  and  cut  them  in  small  pieces.  Put  some  cold 
boiled  potatoes  cut  in  dice  into  a  deep  dish  with  one  raw  apple  and  a  little  cold 
roasted  veal,  also  cut  in  dice.  Mix  with  the  fish  some  pickled  beet-root,  salted  cu- 
cumber, and  a  few  gherkins,  all  finely  chopped  ;  put  them  in  with  the  other  ingredi- 
ents, sprinkle  over  salt,  mustard,  one  pinch  of  chopped  chives,  and  one  handful  of 
capers,  and  pour  in  some  vinegar  and  oil.  Thicken  the  salad  with  a  teacupful  of 
mayonnaise  sauce,  dish  it  in  a  dome  shape,  smooth  the  surface  with  a  knife,  and 
mask  it  with  more  of  the  mayonnaise.  Decorate  it  with  gherkins,  capers,  anchovy 
fillets,  and  cherries  in  vinegar,  put  a  few  lettuce  hearts  in  the  center,  surround  the 
base  with  croutons  of  aspic  jelly,  and  serve. 


Japanese   Salad. 


Mirice  three  or  four  medium-sized  truffles  very  fine,  also  two  large,  cold,  boiled 
potatoes  ;  put  the  whole  into  a  basin,  and  season  with  one-half  pinch  each  of  pepper 
and  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  ;  pour  over  one-half  wineglassful  of  champagne; 
and  allow  it  to  stand  for  two  hours  ;  add  eighteen  or  twenty  whole  cooked  mussels, 
one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives,  and  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  parsley.  Mix 
all  well  together,  put  the  salad  into  a  bowl,  decorating  it  with  six  small  white  lettuce 
leaves,  and  six  fillets  of  anchovies,  and  serve. 


Jardiniere  Salad. 


Cut  into  fine  strips  some  beet-root,  turnips,  carrots  and  potatoes,  mix  with  them 
some    peas,  haricot  beans  and  lentils,  put  them  all  together   in   a  saucepan  with  a 


426  SALADS. 

lump  of  butter,  cover  with  water,  and  boil  them  until  they  are  cooked,  then  drain 
off  the  water  and  leave  them  until  cold.  Make  a  dressing  with  some  oil,  mayon- 
naise sauce,  one  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  and  salt.  When  well  mixed,  pour  the  dressing  into  a  salad  dish, 
mix  the  prepared  vegetables  lightly  in,  and  serve. 

Leek  Salad. 

Cut  the  white  part  of  some  young  leeks  into  small  equal-sized  pieces.  Scald  a 
large  tomato,  remove  the  skin,  leave  until  cold,  and  cut  into  thin  slices.  Wash  a  head 
of  lettuce,  break  off  the  leaves,  and  arrange  them  in  a  fancy  dish ;  then  put  in  sliced 
tomato,  and  next  the  leeks.  Mix  together  some  oil  and  vinegar,  using  most  of  the 
former,  dust  m  some  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  it  over  the  salad.  Sprinkle  over  a 
few  tarragon  leaves,  garnish  with  small  tomatoes,  and  serve. 

Lettuce   Salad. 

Take  two  fine  lettuces,  remove  the  outer  green  leaves,  wash  and  wipe,  place  them 
in  a  salad-bowl,  sprinkle  over  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  chives,  half  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  chopped  chervil  and  tarragon,  and  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pinch 
of  pepper  dissolved  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  tablespoonful  and  a  half  of 
oil.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  serve. 

Lettuce   and   Tomato   Salad. 

Take  a  white  head  of  lettuce,  pare  off  the  outer  green  leaves,  core,  wash  and 
drain  in  a  wire-basket,  then  split  and  cut  the  leaves  into  quarters  and  put  them  in  a 
bowl.  Have  tomatoes,  cut  in  thir.  slices,  and  place  over  the  lettuce.  Season  as  fol- 
lows :  Mix  one  pinch  of  salt  and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar,  add  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  pour  over  the  salad,  and  serve. 

Lobster  Salad. 

(i).  Cut  the  meat  of  a  lobster  in  long  thin  strips,  then  cut  these  into  dice. 
Place  them  in  an  earthenware  bowl,  and  season  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Wash  well  a  lettuce  and  shake 
in  a  wire-basket  to  free  it  from  water.  Place  two  or  three  leaves  together  in  the 
form  of  a  shell,  and  arrange  these  shells  together  on  a  flat  dish.  Mix  one-half  of 
the  mayonnaise  dressing  with  the  lobster,  put  a  little  of  this  in  each  cluster  of  leaves, 
and  pour  over  a  little  more  of  the  dressing.  Garnish  the  border  of  the  dish  with 
whole  leaves. 

(2).  This  salad  should  be  served  as  soon  as  it  is  made.  Choose  a  medium- 
sized  lobster,  and  quite  alive;  plunge  it  head  first  into  a  large  pot  of  boiling  water, 
and,  boil  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  shell  is  quite  red.  Allow  the  lobster 


SALADS. 


427 


to  cool  until  it  can  be  handled,  then  remove  it  from  the  shell,  using  a  can-opener  to 
separate  it;  save  all  the  coral,  green  fat,  and  flesh  of  the  lobster.  Throw  away  the 
intestine  which  runs  through  the  flesh  of  the  tail,  the  membranous  sac  which  lies 
at  the  back  of  the  eyes,  the  "  dead  men"  or  soft  fins  which  lie  under  the  small  legs 
close  to  the  body,  and  the  shell,  cutting  the  lobster  into  square  pieces  about  one  inch 
in  size.  While  the  lobster  is  being  prepared  boil  two  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells, 
and  cut  them  into  quarters.  Carefully  wash  and  dry  two  medium-sized  heads  of 
lettuce,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place.  Put  into  a  saucepan 
four  tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  vinegar,  one  mustard  spoonful  of  made  mustard, 
one-fourth  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  sprinkling  of 
cayenne  and  the  lobster,  and  place  the  saucepan  over  the  fire;  arrange  the  lettuce 
round  the  sides  of  a  salad-bowl,  stir  the  lobster  until  it  is  hot,  pour  it  into  the  salad- 
bowl,  garnish  with  the  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve  at  once.  The  success  of  this  salad 
depends  upon  the  celerity  with  which  it  is  made  and  served. 

(3).  Remove  the  flesh  from  two  freshly-boiled  lobsters,  keeping  the  shells 
(which  should  be  nicely  washed  and  reserved  for  further  use)  as  whole  as  possible. 
Chop  the  flesh  fine,  and  mix  it  with  a  good  mayonnaise  salad-dressing.  Wash  and 
cut  some  lettuces  into  thin  shreds,  pile  them  in  the  center  of  an  oval-shaped  salad 
dish,  arrange  round  it  a  border  of  endive,  and  pour  the  mayonnaise  mixture  in  the 
center.  Cut  some  celery  into  pieces  of  various  lengths,  and  arrange  in  fancy  shaped 
groups  against  the  endive.  Garnish  round  all  with  croutons  of  aspic  jelly.  Place 
the  shells  of  the  lobsters  on  the  top  lengthwise,  head  to  head,  put  across  their  backs 
some  rounds  of  cucumber  overlapping  each  other,  and  serve. 

Lobster   Mayonnaise. 

Take  the  flesh  from  some  lobsters  and  cut  them  to  a  small  size.  Have  a  border 
mould,  and  pour  into  it  a  layer  of  slightly  melted  pale-colored  aspic  jelly.  When 
the  jelly  begins  to  set,  place  arounct  and  over  some  of  the  pieces  of  lobster  and  a  few 
tarragon  leaves,  filling  up  with  jelly.  Put  the  mould  in  a  cold  place,  and  when  the 
jelly  is  set  turn  the  mould  out  onto  a  dish;  fill  the  center  with  lettuce  cut  into  shreds 
and  mixed  with  the  remainder  of  the  lobster  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  tarragon, 
vinegar  and  oil.  Heap  the  lettuce  and  lobster  high,  and  cover  it  with  mayonnaise 
sauce.  Garnish  the  heap  of  salad  and  the  top  of  the  mould  with  capers,  stoned 
olives,  tarragon,  shervil,  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  slices  of  truffles,  and  the  coral  of 
the  lobster. 

Macedoine   Salad. 

Select  a  medium-sized  carrot  and  turnip,  peel  and  wash  well,  and  cut  them  with 
a  vegetable  scoop.  Put  them  into  separate  saucepans  of  boiling  salted  water  and 
cook  the  carrot  fifteen  minutes  and  the  turnip  ten.  Drain  well,  let  them  thoroughly 
cool,  and  place  them  in  a  salad-bowl  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  peas,  the 


428  SALADS. 

same  quantity  of  French  beans  cut  into  small  pieces,  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch 
of  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil  and  nearly  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
Mix  all  together  well  and  turn  it  into  a  salad-bowl.  Decorate  the  bowl  with  cooked 
cauliflower  or  a  few  asparagus  tops  or  Brussels  sprouts,  and  send  to  the  table  at  once. 

Cold   Meat  and   Potato   Salad. 

Cut  one  pound  of  cold  meat  into  thin  slices  and  then  again  into  small  squares, 
and  mix  with  it  one  pint  of  chopped  cold  potatoes.  Put  a  layer  of  this  at  the  bottom 
of  a  salad-bowl,  cover  with  parsley  and  salad  dressing,  and  continue  in  this  way  until 
all  the  meat  is  used  up.  Place  the  bowl  in  a  cool  place  for  a  couple  of  hours,  and  the 
salad  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Mussel   Salad. 

Wash  the  mussels  and  boil  them  until  the  shells  open.  When  cooked  drain 
them,  remove  the  shells  and  put  them  into  a  hot  dish.  Melt  one-fourth  pound  of 
butter,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  lemon  juice  and  a  small  quantity  of  Worcestershire 
sauce  and  pour  it  over  the  mussels.  They  should  be  eaten  hot  with  some  thin  slices 
of  brown  bread  and  butter. 

Onion    and    Tomato    Salad. 

Choose  half  a  dozen  firm,  ripe  tomatoes  of  medium  size,  wipe  them  with  a  wet 
towel  and  cut  them  into  slices  about  one-fourth  inch  thick;  peel  a  medium-sized 
Spanish  onion  and  slice  it  very  thin.  Arrange  the  sliced  onion  and  tomatoes  in  layers 
in  a  salad-bowl  and  pour  over  them  a  plain  salad  dressing  made  by  mixing  together 
one  teacupful  of  salad  oil,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  one-half  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Use  the  salad  as  soon  as  made.  Young  green 
onions  may  be  used  for  this  salad. 


Spanish    Onion    Salad. 


Soak  some  large  Spanish  onions  for  a  few  hours,  changing  the  water  several 
times,  for  the  purpose  of  reducing  their  flavor.  Slice  the  onions,  put  them  in  a  salad 
bowl  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  about  a  teacupful  of  vinegar  and  one- 
and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  salad  oil;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  toss  the  salad  about 
to  mix  it,  then  serve  with  toasted  crackers. 

Oyster   Salad. 

Clean  two  heads  of  celery,  leaving  a  little  of  the  green  part  on,  and  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  half  their  bulk  of  tender  white  cabbage.  Pour  over  sufficient 
boiling  salted  water  to  cover  and  boil  for  five  minutes.  Take  out,  place  them  on  a 
colander  to  drain  and  mince  very  fine.  Put  the  strained  liquor  from  two  dozen  oys- 


SALADS.  429 

ters  into  a  saucepan,  boil  and  skim  it,  add  a  little  vinegar,  bruised  peppercorns  and 
salt.  Put  in  the  oysters  and  cook  slowly  for  a  few  minutes  until  done,  take  them  out 
and  turn  them  into  a  basin  packed  in  ice  to  cool;  add  a  little  oil  and  vinegar  to  the 
chopped  celery  and  cabbage,  spread  some  of  it  over  a  dish,  arrange  the  oysters  on  it, 
putting  them  close  together,  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  mixture,  smooth  it  over 
with  a  knife,  pour  over  a  little  mayonnaise  sauce,  and  serve. 

Potato    Salad. 

Cut  up  half  a  dozen  firm  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  nice  slices,  and  slice  up 
half  that  quantity  of  boiled  beet-root,  half  their  quantity  of  boiled  Spanish  onions  and 
a  small  amount  of  pickled  cucumber;  arrange  the  slices  of  vegetables  in  artistic  order 
on  a  salad  dish,  and  prepare  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salad-dressing  with  tarragon  and 
salad  oil,  the  former  predominating,  and  season  to  the  taste  with  salt  and  pepper; 
pour  it  over  the  vegetables,  garnish  the  dish  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  strewing 
a  moderate  quantity  of  powdered  sweet  herbs  over  the  center,  and  serve.  If  desired, 
a  small  quantity  of  English  mustard  can  be  added  to  the  dressing. 

Prawn   Salad. 

Remove  the  skins  and  heads  of  the  prawns  and  arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  a 
handful  or  so  of  pickled  parsley,  dredging  over  them  some  salt.  Then  squeeze  the 
juice  of  two  or  three  lemons  into  a  basin,  beat  it  together  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
the  best  salad  oil  until  well  mixed,  when  it  may  be  poured  over  the  prawns  and  served. 

Radish   Salad. 

Scrape  well  four  large  radishes,  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  and  put  them  into  a 
salad-bowl.  Peel  and  slice  a  moderate-sized  cucumber,  and  put  it  in  with  the  rad- 
ishes. Mix  in  equal  quantities  salad-oil  and  vinegar,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  pour  the  mixture  over  the  salad.  Sprinkle  some  chopped  capers  and  herbs  over 
the  salad,  and  serve. 

Russian  Salad. 

Cut  into  thin  slices  the  best  part  of  some  cold  remains  of  salmon,  partridges  and 
chicken,  arrange  them  on  a  salad  dish,  and  mix  with  them  in  moderate  quantities 
some  cooked  asparagus  heads,  carrots,  turnips  and  cauliflower,  all  cut  into  small 
pieces,  a  few  capers,  shrimps,  and  a  small  quantity  of  caviar.  Prepare  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  dressing  with  oil,  mustard,  vinegar  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pep- 
per; one  tablespoonful  of  minced  shallots  should  also  be  added.  Pour  the  mixture 
over  the  above  ingredients,  and  stand  the  salad  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve.  Care 
should  be  taken  in  making  this  salad  that  all  the  ingredients  taste,  but  that  none  of 
them  predominate. 


43° 


SALADS. 


Russian  Salad  with   Caviar. 


Pack  a  conical-shaped  mould  in  ice  and  decorate  the  interior  with  anchovy  fillets, 
poached  whites  of  eggs,  and  gherkins  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  small  French  beans,  all 
dipped  in  half-set  aspic  jelly  to  make  them  adhere  to  the  mould.  Cover  all  with  a 
thin  layer  of  the  aspic  jelly  and  let  it  set.  Meanwhile  prepare  a  salad  of  boiled  beet- 
roots, potatoes  and  carrots  (a  little  of  each),  as  well  as  a  few  pickled  button  mush- 
rooms and  capers,  a  little  salted  cucumber,  and  a  few  sticks  of  celery,  all  except  the 
capers  being  cut  up  small;  add  a  few  fillets  of  anchovies  or  salted  herrings,  a  small 
piece  of  any  cooked  fish,  and  a  few  crayfish  tails,  all  cut  up  into  small  pieces.  Put 
the  whole  into  a  basin,  pour  over  sufficient  mayonnaise  sauce  to  make  the  mixture 
thick,  pack  the  basin  in  ice,  and  allow  the  contents  to  cool.  Turn  the  salad  into  the 
mould,  let  it  remain  in  the  ice  for  an  hour,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a 
garnish  of  small  rolls  cut  in  halves,  and  the  center  scooped  out  and  filled  with  caviar. 

Salmon  Salad. 

Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  two  salmon  steaks  that  have  been  broiled; 
flake  the  flesh  with  two  forks,  put  it  into  a  basin,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
moisten  with  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  and  a  very  little  oil,  the  fish  being  oily  itself. 
Soak  it  for  an  hour  or  so.  Wash  a  head  of  lettuce  in  plenty  of  water,  drain  it  well, 
pull  the  leaves  apart,  and  put  them  in  a  salad-bowl  ;  drain  the  salmon,  put  it  in  with 
the  lettuce,  pour  over  it  a  mayonnaise  dressing,  garnish  it  tastefully  with  slices  of 
hard  boiled  eggs,  olives  and  anchovies,  cut  it  into  small  fancy  shapes,  and  serve. 

Salsify  Salad. 

Cut  some  boiled  heads  of  salsify  into  pieces  two  inches  long,  and  mix  with  them 
some  salt,  pepper,  chopped  ravigote,  oil  and  vinegar.  When  well  mixed,  add  some 
half-set  aspic.  Fix  a  paste  croustade  on  a  dish,  pile  the  salad  on  it,  and  serve. 

Sardine  Salad. 

Steep  the  requisite  quantity  of  sardines  in  vinegar  for  half  an  hour,  then  scrape 
them  carefully,  refresh  them  in  more  vinegar,  and  arrange  them  round  the  edges  of 
a  dish.  Chop  fine  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  three  or  four  small  onions,  stone  sev- 
eral olives,  mix  them  with  the  onions,  and  place  the  entire  mixture  in  the  middle  of 
the  dish.  Put  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons  in  a  basin  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  olive  oil,  and  beat  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  of  a  smooth  creamy  consistency. 
Pour  the  sauce  over  the  salad,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Scallop   Salad. 

Put  the  scallops  into  a  basin  of  salted  water  and  steep  them  for  an  hour,  then 
rinse  them  in  plenty  of  cold  water  and  boil  gently  for  twenty-five  minutes.  When 


SALADS. 


431 


cooked  plunge  the  scallops  into  cold  water,  then  dt^in  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Cut 
up  the  white  stalks  of  a  head  of  celery,  put  them  in  a  salad-bowl,  add  the  scallops, 
pour  over  them  a  mayonnaise  dressing,  and  serve. 


Shrimp   Salad. 


Take  one  quart  of  boiled  and  skinned  shrimps,  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish,  season- 
ing with  one  pinch  of  salt,  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
and  adding  a  few  branches  of  celery,  also  chopped  up.  Mix  well  together,  then 
transfer  it  to  a  salad-bowl  and  pour  over  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  mayonnaise 
dressing;  decorate  with  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  into  quarters  six  leaves  of  lettuce, 
twelve  stoned  olives  and  one  tablespoonful  of  capers.  The  salad  is  then  ready  for 
use.  •  > 

Sorrel   Salad. 

Procure  a  quantity  of  sorrel,  wash  it  well  in  several  waters  and  place  it  on  a  sieve 
to  drain;  if  the  leaves  are  large  break  them  in  halves,  but  if  small  they  can  be  left 
whole.  Place  the  sorrel  in  a  bowl  with  a  variety  of  other  salad  plants  (such  as  may 
be  in  season),  the  sorrel  being  too  sour  to  eat  alone,  cover  it  with  a  salad  dressing  in 
which  the  vinegar  is  left  out,  and  serve.  Common  field  sorrel  is  excellent  in  vege- 
table salads  mixed  with  leaves  of  dandelion  and  served  with  a  bacon  dressing. 


Spanish  Salad. 


Bleach  some  heads  of  endive,  and  arrange  them  in  a  mound  in  the  middle  of 
a  dish ;  peel  some  rather  large  tomatoes,  divide  them  into  sections,  and  place  them 
round  the  endive.  Boil  some  eggs  very  hard,  and  when  cold,  shell  and  set  them  in 
a  mortar  after  having  cut  them  into  halves  and  scooping  out  the  yolks,  being  careful 
not  to  break  the  whites.  Pick  some  shrimps  or  lobster,  and  put  them  in  the  mortar 
with  the  yolks,  and  pound  to  a  paste.  Fill  the  hollow  of  the  whites  with  the  paste 
and  level  it  off  at  the  top,  and  arrange  them  round  the  tomatoes.  Strew  some 
chopped  shallot  and  sweet  pepper  over  the  endive;  mix  together  in  equal  propor- 
tions some  oil  and  vinegar:  season  the  mixture  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over 
the  salad.  Serve  at  once. 


String  Bean  Salad. 


The  string  beans  are  to  be  boiled,  cut  up  into  diamond-shaped  pieces  and 
allowed  to  cool  and  drain  well;  mix  them  up  with  salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  a 
little  ravigote  sauce,  turn  the  salad  into  a  croustade  made  of  paste,  and  serve  cold. 

Tomato   Salad. 

Pour  boiling  water  over  the  required  number  of  tomatoes,  then  drain  them  and 
remove  the  skins;  leave  until  quite  cold,  then  divide  into  sections.  Put  the  tomatoes 


432  SALADS. 

into  a  salad-bowl,  garnish  with  chopped  tarragon  leaves,  pour  a  plain  dressing  of  oil 
and  vinegar  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  over  them,  and  serve.  A  mayonnaise 
dressing  can  be  used  in  place  of  a  plain  dressing,  if  preferred. 

Tomato   and   Artichoke   Salad. 

Prepare  a  mixture  or  dressing  of  olive  oil,  vinegar,  tarragon,  chervil,  salt  and 
pepper.  Have  ready  some  boiled  artichokes,  cut  them  in  slices,  using  the  under  part 
only,  and  also  cut  off  an  equal  number  of  slices  of  tomatoes.  Dip  them  into  the 
dressing,  arrange  in  a  salad-bowl,  pour  over  the  dressing,  and  serve. 

Tomato   and   Cucumber   Salad. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  salad-dish  with  lettuce,  place  a  layer  of  sliced  cucumbers 
on  the  top,  cover  with  a  layer  of  slices  of  peeled  tomatoes,  pour  over  salad-dressing 
or  mayonnaise  sauce,  and  serve. 

Tomato   Salad  in  Surprise. 

Peel  a  nice  large  tomato  and  empty  its  contents;  then  take  some  cold  slaw  and 
celery  hashed  up  very  fine  and  mix  it  with  mayonnaise  dressing,  add  a  pinch  of  salt 
and  a  pinch  of  paprika  peppei.  Mix  it  well  and  fill  the  tomato  with  this  mixture. 
The  tomato  must  be  served  very  cold  so  as  to  have  this  salad  a  success.  Use  one 
tomato  for  each  guest 

Tomatoes  with    Mayonnaise. 

Raw  tomatoes,  peeled  and  sliced,  are  delicious  with  mayonnaise,  which  is  made 
by  mixing  gradually  three  parts  of  oil  and  one  of  vinegar  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
adding  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Mustard  may  also  be  added  if  liked.  The 
egg  and  seasoning  are  put  in  the  bottom  of  a  bowl  with  a  small  quantity  of  vinegar 
and  mixed  to  a  smooth  cream;  the  oil  and  vinegar  are  then  added  alternately,  a  few 
drops  at  a  time,  until  the  desired  quantity  of  mayonnaise  is  obtained.  It  must  be  kept 
in  a  cool  place  until  wantejd. 

Tongue   Salad. 

Cut  some  cold  boiled  beef  tongue  into  small  thin  strips,  place  them  in  a  salad- 
bowl  and  add  some  chopped  boiled  potatoes  and  a  small  quantity  of  celery  cut  into 
pieces.  Strew  over  the  salad  some  finely-chopped  parsley  and  baste  it  with  a  few  ta- 
blespoonfuls  of  beef  broth.  Prepare  a  plain  salad-dressing  of  oil  and  vinegar,  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  it  over  the  salad,  which  place  in  the  refrigerator. 
When  ready  to  serve,  garnish  the  salad  with  heart-leaves  of  lettuce. 


SALADS. 


Truffle   Salad. 


433 


Pick  out  all  the  black  spots  from  half  a  dozen  white  truffles,  wash  them  thor- 
oughly, wipe  them  dry  on  a  cloth  and  chop  them  up  as  fine  as  possible.  Pour  a 
little  oil  into  a  saucepan,  add  two  or  three  fillets  of  anchovies  rubbed  through  a 
fine  sieve,  make  the  oil  hot,  add  the  truffles  and  a  little  seasoning,  remove  the  sauce- 
pan from  the  fire,  toss  it  for  a  minute  or  two,  turn  the  salad  into  a  bowl,  and  serve. 


Truffle  and  Celery  Salad. 


Cut  some  cooked  truffles  into  slices,  and  then  into  quarters,  stir  them  in  with 
the  hearts  of  a  few  roots  of  celery,  also  cut  up  into  small  pieces  about  three-fourths 
of  an  inch  in  length,  put  them  into  a  salad-bowl,  pour  over  a  dressing  composed  of 
oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Vegetable   Salad. 

Boil  some  beet-root,  celery  and  onions.  When  cold  cut  them  into  thick  slices. 
Mix  together  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  made  mustard,  one  des- 
sertspoonful of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  half  a  dozen  drops  of  chili  vinegar,  and  pour 
it  over  the  vegetables. 

f '       Waldorf  Salad. 

Peel  two  raw  apples  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  say  about  half  an  inch  square, 
also  cut  some  celery  the  same  way,  and  mix  it  with  the  apple.  Be  very  careful  not 
to  let  any  seeds  of  the  apples  be  mixed  with  it.  The  salad  must  be  dressed  with  a 
good  mayonnaise. 

Watercress  Salad. 

Select  three  bunches  of  fresh  watercress,  pare  off  the  stalks,  clean,  dry  in  a  cloth, 
place  in  a  salad-bowl,  seasoning  with  one-half  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar ;  mix  thoroughly,  and  serve.  Watercress  salad  requires 
no  oil. 


Vegetables. 


A  great  difficulty  seems  to  exist  among  cooks  and  others  in  their  efforts  to 
define  the  distinction  between  vegetables  and  fruit.  In  a  culinary  sense  the  distinc- 
tion is  somewhat  simplified,  the  term  vegetables  being  generally  applied  to  those 
articles  which  have  grown  in  or  about  the  earth  and  are  cooked,  or  dressed  uncooked, 
as  savories;  fruits,  on  the  contrary,  are  usually  associated  with  sweets.  Literally,  the 
term  vegetables,  derived  from  the  Latin  vegetare,  would  include  all  things  that 
grow  from  the  earth  as  members  of  the  vegetable  kingdom;  but  in  a  more  limited 
sense,  the  term  vegetables  might  be  applied  to  those  edible  growths  that  are  included 
amongst  our  vegetable  foods  without  being  connected  with  the  organs  of  vegetable 
reproduction,  which  are  known,  correctly  speaking,  as  fruits.  This  difficulty  of 
distinction  is  very  patent  when  we  remember  that  some  fruits  are,  in  a  culinary  sense, 
styled  vegetables,  among  which  are  tomatoes,  vegetable  marrows,  peas,  beans,  cu- 
cumbers, etc.,  etc.  Then  again,  the  stalks  of  leaves,  known  as  rhubarb,  are  es- 
teemed as  fruit  amongst  cooks.  Nuts,  again,  which  are,  most  correctly  speaking, 
the  fruit  of  the  tree  which  bears  them,  are  differently  designated,  when  they  are 
numbered  amongst  the  dishes  of  a  dessert.  They  are  not  vegetables,  they  are  nuts. 

Whenever  the  vegetables  are  distinguished  for  their  excellence  the  dinner  is 
always  particularly  enjoyed;  and  if  they  are  served  with  each  dish,  as  they  are 
most  appropriate  and  fresh  from  the  dressing,  it  would  be  a  great  improvement  on  the 
present  style.  With  some  meats,  something  of  the  kind  is  practiced,  as  peas  with 
duck,  and  beans  with  bacon,  and  such  combinations  are  generally  favorites,  but  the 
system  might  be  extended,  and  with  great  advantage.  With  respect  to  variety  of 
vegetables,  I  think  the  same  rule  applies  as  to  other  dishes.  I  would  not  have  many 
sorts  on  the  same  occasion,  but  would  study  appropriateness  and  particular  excel- 
lence. This  is  a  matter  for  study,  and  a  field  for  genius.  To  the  eye  of  the  in- 
itiated nothing  can  be  more  ridiculous  than  to  see  an  American  dinner-plate  heaped 
up  with  a  confusion  of  vegetables,  none  of  them  any  too  well  dressed,  except  the 
potato,  which  is  always  present,  and  generally  good. 

From  the  foregoing  remarks  it  is  quite  evident  that  the  cooking  of  vegetables 
might  be  regarded  as  a  distinct  culinary  art.  In  large  establishments  it  is  quite 
usual  to  engage  a  cook  especially  experienced  in  this  department,  who,  acting  under 
the  chef,  is  known  as  the  vegetable  cook.  That  the  duties  attached  to  his  office 
are  exceedingly  important,  requiring  considerable  intelligence,  will  be  understood 
from  the  following  instructions: 

In  the  first  place  the  cook  should  see  that  the  vegetables  are  quite  fresh,  for,  in 

434 


VEGETABLES.  435 

spite  of  anything  that  may  be  said  to  the  contrary,  all  vegetables,  whether  roots, 
leaves,  or  any  other  kind,  begin  to  lose  bulk  and  flavor  as  soon  as  they  are  removed 
from  the  ground.  Those  that  suffer  the  least  in  this  respect  are  roots  and  tubers, 
such  as  carrots  and  potatoes,  and  those  that  suffer  most  are  leaves,  stalks  and 
shoots,  such  as  asparagus,  cabbages  and  the  like. 

To  clean  vegetables  they  should  be  first  soaked  for  a  time  in  salted  water.  In 
this  way  the  flavor  of  the  vegetables  improves,  and  all  insect  life  is  removed.  Next 
the  dirt  and  grit  must  be  thoroughly  washed  out,  and  for  this  purpose  a  wire  sieve  or 
basket  should  be  used,  which  may  be  dipped  again  and  again  into  a  tub  of  water,  the 
vegetables  in  it  being  shaken  well  and  rinsed.  Root  vegetables  offer  the  artistic  cook 
a  very  extensive  scope  for  the  exercise  of  his  skill  and  ingenuity,  as  may  be  seen 
from  the  various  shapes  and  designs  into  which  these  vegetables  may  be  cut. 
Flowers  are  frequently  cleverly  imitated,  and  rounds,  olives,  and  lozenge  shapes  of 
every  variety  are  to  be  seen  in  artistically  prepared  soups  and  garnishes.  These  re- 
quire special  tools  for  their  production,  of  which  there  are  many  in  use. 

Artichokes  Barigoule. 

Cut  off  about  half  an  inch  from  the  tops  of  the  artichokes,  trim  off  the  leaves 
from  the  bottom  and  burn  them.  Wash  thoroughly,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  good 
supply  of  slightly-salted  water  and  boil  until  quite  tender.  Take  out,  drain,  and 
scoop  out  the  slightly  fibrous  insides,  and  squeeze  perfectly  dry.  Put  the  tops  of 
the  leaves  into  a  fryingpan  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  to  fry  them.  Place  a 
small  quantity  of  grated  bacon  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  flour  and  butter,  adding  a 
gill  of  prepared  fine  herbs,  and  pour  over  a  little  broth;  put  the  saucepan  over  the  fire 
and  stir  for  five  minutes.  Place  a  small  quantity  of  this  mixture  in  each  artichoke 
(previously  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  internally)  and  cover  the  opening  with  a 
thin  slice  of  bacon,  bind  around  with  string  to  keep  them  in  position,  put  into  a  saute- 
pan  together  with  a  little  broth,  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes. 
Arrange  the  cooked  leaves  on  a  dish,  remove  the  string  and  bacon  from  the  arti- 
chokes, place  on  the  leaves,  and  serve. 

Artichokes   Boiled   Plain. 

Cut  off  the  tips  of  the  leaves  and  round  off  the  bottoms,  removing  the  stalk  and 
trimming  the  under  leaves  away.  Soak  in  salt  and  water,  washing  well.  Boil  them 
in  salt  and  water  until  they  are  quite  tender;  the  leaves  come  away  readily  when  they 
are  done.  Use  a  large  quantity  of  water  for  the  boiling,  as  it  helps  to  rid  them  of  a 
slight  bitterness  prevalent,  especially  in  the  autumn.  When  cooked  drain  on  a  cloth, 
and  then  remove  with  a  spoon  the  soft  fibrous  substance  found  inside,  and  which  is 
sometimes  termed  the  "  choke."  Then  place  once  more  in  boiling  water  to  heat  up 
and  take  out  again,  drain  and  serve  in  a  vegetable  dish  with  a  strainer,  or  upon  a 
neatly-folded  napkin.  Serve  with  melted  butter. 


436  VEGETABLES. 

Puree  of  Artichokes. 

Dress  and  cook  some  artichoke  bottoms  as  for  a  garnish,  and  then  when  they 
are  soft  remove,  drain  and  cut  them  up.  Place  in  a  saucepan  with  an  equal  bulk  of 
bechamel  sauce,  glaze  and  reduce  the  liquor,  rubbing  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve 
into  a  basin,  mixing  in  a  little  hot  cream  and  butter,  and  serve. 

Artichokes   Raw. 

A  poivrade  composed  of  a  mixture  of  pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  salt  is  placed  on  a 
plate  and  the  artichoke  held  in  the  left  hand  by  the  tips  of  the  leaves,  is  cut  into 
slices,  successively  from  the  bottom,  to  each  slice  is  attached  a  leaf;  then  holding  the 
leaf  between  the  finger  and  the  thumb,  the  sliced  bottom  is  dipped  into  the  poivrade 
and  eaten. 

Stuffed   Artichoke   Bottoms. 

Trim,  cut  in  quarters  and  cook  the  desired  number  of  artichokes  in  the  Italian 
style,  and  fill  the  center  of  each  with  a  little  chicken  forcemeat  mixed  with  d'uxelles 
sauce.  Place  in  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter  and  put  in  an  oven  to  poach  the 
forcemeat.  Then  remove,  arrange  on  a  dish  and  serve,  pouring  a  little  half-glaze  over 
them. 

Boiled   Asparagus. 

Have  the  asparagus  as  fresh  as  possible,  scrape  and  clean,  washing  thoroughly  and 
tie  with  a  string  into  bundles  of  five  or  six  shoots  each,  taking  care  to  have  the 
head  even  so  that  the  stalks  may  be  cut  off  at  the  bottom  leaving  them  of  equal 
length.  Place  the  bundles  in  boiling  salt  and  water  and  boil  them  fast  without  the 
lid  until  tender;  this  will  be  from  twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour;  then  have  ready 
some  slices  of  toast  without  crust  and  lay  them  for  sippets  at  the  bottom  of  the  veg- 
etable dish.  Take  out  the  bundles  of  asparagus  from  the  boiling  water,  using  great 
care  to  prevent  the  heads  from  falling  off.  Lay  them  upon  the  toast  and  untie  them 
upon  it,  allow  the  asparagus  to  fall  so  that  it  will  be  one  wav  upon  the  toast,  and  the 
sippet  be  moistened  with  the  water  of  the  asparagus.  Melted  butter  with  the  juice 
of  a  lemon  to  every  pint  may  be  served  separately  in  a  boat  or  poured  over  it.  Oiled 
butter  is  sometimes  served  with  asparagus,  especially  in  Paris  and  other  continental 
cities. 

Asparagus   Croustade. 

Carefully  cut  off  a  small  piece  of  the  end  of  three  French  rolls,  and  scrape  out 
all  the  crumb  with  the  handle  of  a  spoon;  put  the  tops  and  shells  into  a  fryingpan 
with  a  little  butter  and  fry  them,  or  they  may  be  placed  before  the  fire  to  get  crisp. 
Pour  one  breakfastcupful  of  cream  into  a  saucepan,  add  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and 
beat  together  for  a  few  minutes,  seasoning  with  a  little  salt  and  grated  nutmeg.  Set 


VEGETABLES.  437 

the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  when  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken,  put  in  about  seventy 
green  parts  of  the  asparagus,  cut  up  into  small  pieces.  Fill  the  rolls  with  this  mixture, 
replace  the  lids  or  pieces  of  the  tops  that  were  cut  off,  and  with  a  sharp-pointed 
stick  or  skewer  make  sufficient  holes  at  one  end  of  them  to  insert  about  ten  more  of 
the  green  parts  of  the  asparagus.  Then  arrange  them  on  a  napkin  placed  on  a  dish, 
and  serve.  The  pieces  of  asparagus  projecting  from  the  rolls  will  give  the  appearance 
of  growing  out  of  them. 

Asparagus,   Pompadour. 

After  washing,  place  the  asparagus  in  a  saucepan  of  salted  boiling  water,  and 
boil  until  done.  Take  them  out,  cut  them  into  lengths  of  about  two  inches,  and  place 
in  a  cloth  near  the  fire  to  dry.  Prepare  a  little  sauce  with  vinegar,  butter,  yolk  of 
egg,  salt  and  pepper  and  place  the  asparagus  on  a  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  serve. 

Asparagus   with    Cream. 

Cut  into  small  pieces  a  bunch  of  asparagus  and  put  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water  and  blanch  for  about  three  minutes.  Then  remove,  drain  and  put  into  another 
saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  warm  water,  some  butter,  sugar,  and  one  onion. 
Set  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour,  take  out 
the  onion,  add  a  thickening  of  yolk  of  egg  and  cream,  stir  it  well  and  turn  the  whole 
out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Asparagus   Tops   with   Cream. 

Cut  off  the  points  or  heads  of  the  desired  quantity  of  asparagus,  wash  and  drain 
them  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  warmed  butter.  Set  the  pan  on  the  fire, 
stir  in  a  little  bechamel  sauce,  and  when  done  remove,  place  on  a  dish,  pour  over  the 
sauce,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Black   Beans. 

Place  the  beans  in  a  basin  of  water  and  soak  for  three  hours.  Then  place  in  a 
saucepan  of  water  and  boil  for  three  hours;  take  out,  drain  and  place  in  another 
saucepan  with  a  few  small  pieces  of  bacon  a  little  chutney,  mushroom  catsup, 
anchovy  sauce  and  gravy,  and  cook  well  for  half  an  hour.  Turn  out  onto  a  dish,  and 
serve  with  a  garnish  of  boiled  rice. 

Boiled   Lima   Beans. 

Shell  the  beans  and  throw  them  into  cold  water  to  remain  there  until  they  are 
wanted.  An  hour  before  they  are  required  place  them  in  boiling  water,  adding  some 
salt,  and  boil  them  until  tender,  when  drain  off  the  water,  add  a  little  fresh  butter, 
and  serve. 


438  VEGETABLES. 

Lima   Beans   Sauted. 

Use  one  quart  of  freshly-shelled  lima  beans,  and  parboil  them  in  salted  water  for 
twenty  minutes.  Place  them  in  fresh,  cool  water  after  draining,  again  drain  them 
and  put  in  a  sautepan  with  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  to 
taste.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  tossing  well,  then  moisten  with  some  cream,  adding  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  mix  well  together,  and  serve. 

Boiled   String   Beans. 

Take  the  fresh  tender  beans,  break  off  the  tops  and  bottoms  carefully,  stringing 
both  sides,  and  paring  the  edges  neatly ;  wash  in  cold  water  and  drain.  Then  place 
them  in  boiling  salted  water  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain  and  return  them  to 
cold  water,  letting  them  get  thoroughly  cool.  Lift  out  and  dry.  They  are  then 
ready  to  serve. 

String   Beans,    Bretonne. 

Cut  some  onions  into  dice-shaped  pieces  placing  them  in  a  saucepan  together 
with  a  little  butter,  let  cook  to  a  golden  color  on  the  stove,  say  for  five  minutes,  and 
add  a  very  little  flour.  Stir  well  and  moisten  with  some  white  broth,  continuing  the 
stirring  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  add  the  cooked 
beans  with  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic  to  the  sauce,  cook  for  ten  minutes,  place  on  a  hot 
dish,  sprinkling  over  it  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

String  Beans,  English  Style. 

Prepare  the  beans  in  the  same  manner  as  for  the  boiled  string  beans,  keep  them 
warm  and  of  a  light  green  color,  put  on  a  hot  dish,  pouring  over  them  a  little  melted 
butter,  and  sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley  on  top,  serving  very  hot. 

String   Beans  Sauted  in  Butter. 

Take  some  tender  string  beans  and  parboil  them  in  slightly  salted  water  for  a  couple 
of  minutes,  drain  them  and  place  in  a  saucepan  on  a  hot  stove,  adding  a  lump  of  butter 
and  season  with  salt.  Stir  lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  while  cooking  for  three  min- 
utes. When  done,  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve 

String    Beans   with    Cream. 

Prepare  the  beans,  and  then  place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  slightly  salted  water, 
boiling  until  quite  tender.  Meanwhile  put  the  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs  in  a  basin 
and  beat  them  up  with  a  little  cream,  adding  some  warmed  butter,  and  beating  well. 
Pour  this  mixture  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and,  when  quite  hot,  mix  in  a  little 


VEGETABLES. 


439 


vinegar  together  with  the  beans.  After  they  have  been  drained,  remove  the  pan  to 
the  side  of  the  fire,  and  steam  gently  for  six  or  seven  minutes,  stirring  constantly. 
When  done,  turn  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 


String    Beans  with  Gravy. 


Put  some  string  beans  which  have  been  cooked  and  allowed  to  become  quite  cold 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  onions  fried  in  butter,  seasoning  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  toss  over  the  fire  for  about  ten  minutes.  Then  pour 
in  sufficient  stock  and  gravy  from  roasted  meat  to  moisten  and  cook  gently  for  fifteen 
minutes;  skim  off  the  beans  and  place  on  a  dish,  add  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs 
to  the  gravy  to  thicken  it  and  pour  over  the  beans,  serving  them  hot. 

String    Beans    with    Parsley  and   Butter. 

Place  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  sprinkle  in  a  few  green  parsley 
leaves,  add  the  beans,  then  stir  until  the  butter  is  melted,  the  beans  coated  with  it 
and  the  parsley  is  equally  spread  over  them.  Cover  the  pan  over  and  place  on  side  of 
the  fire,  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve. 

White    Beans  and   Boiled  Pork. 

Select  a  suitable  piece  of  pork,  score  the  skiri  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  For 
each  pound  of  meat,  take  one  quart  of  beans  that  have  been  soaked  over  night  in 
soft  water.  Place  them  in  cold  water  on  the  stove  to  boil,  and  when  they  become 
soft,  drain  off  the  water  and  set  the  pork  in  a  deep  dish  on  a  layer  of  the  beans,  cov- 
ering it  nearly  over  with  the  remainder;  and  add  a  little  warm  water;  then  bake  to  a 
nice  brown.  A  little  moist  sugar  mixed  with  beans  before  placing  them  in  the  dish 
is  considered  an  improvement  by  some. 

White    Beans    and    Cream. 

Put  a  few  mashed  boiled  onions  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter,  grated  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper;  add  the  beans,  stirring  gently  over  the  fire  until  they  are  hot  but 
without  boiling;  they  are  then  ready  for  serving. 

Stewed  White  Beans. 

Boil  the  beans  until  quite  tender;  remove  the  rind  from  some  streaky  bacon  and 
cut  into  pieces  an  inch  long  and  half  an  inch  thick,  scald  for  five  minutes  in  boiling 
water,  drain  and  put  in  a  stewpan  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  of  a  light  brown  color, 
then  add  a  little  flour  and  stir  for  a  few  minutes  longer;  add  a  cupful  of  claret  wine 
and  a  little  water,  seasoning  with  pepper,  and  simmer  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Drain 


440  VEGETABLES. 

the  beans,  place  them  in  the  stewpan  with  the  bacon,  adding  a  little  butter,  and  toss 
over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Baked   Beet-Roots. 

After  washing  thoroughly  place  in  a  rather  slow  oven  and  when  done  serve  hot 
with  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  If  baked  whole  they  will  probably  require  about  eight 
hours  to  cook  well. 

The    Preparation   of   Beet-Roots  for  Table. 

Choose  the  small,  smooth  varieties;  wash  and  clean  them  without  cutting  or 
scraping  and  boil  for  one  to  two  hours,  dependent  upon  their  size.  Allow  them  to 
cool  and  then  peel,  cut  into  slices  and  serve  in  a  glass  dish;  or  they  may  be  mixed 
in  a  salad. 

Beet-Roots  Sauted  in  Butter. 

Prepare  as  for  boiled  beet-roots,  and  when  cooked  and  peeled  cut  into  heart- 
shaped  pieces,  place  in  a  sautepan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  season  with  pepper  and 
sprinkle  over  a  very  little  loaf  sugar  powdered.  Cook  on  a  stove  for  six  minutes, 
carefully  tossing  them  from  time  to  time;  then  arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Beet-Roots  with   Cream. 

Boil  some  beet-roots,  peel  and  let  them  become  cold,  then  slice  and  put  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  little  good  stock.  Beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  one  quart  of 
good  cream  and  stir  into  the  stock  in  which  the  beet-root  has  been  warmed.  Serve  on 
a  dish  with  the  sauce  poured  over  it. 

Boiled    Brussels    Sprouts. 

Wash  well  in  salted  water  about  two  pounds  of  Brussels  sprouts  and  pick  them  over 
well.  Place  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  filled  with  water  a  little  salt  and  bicarbonate  of 
soda;  leave  off  the  lid  and  boil  fast  till  quite  tender,  say  about  twenty  to  twenty-five 
minutes.  When  done  drain  them  and  dry  on  a  cloth,  and  put  in  a  large  sautepan  a  good- 
sized  lump  of  butter  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  toss  the  sprouts  in  this  until  they 
become  quite  hot  again,  but  do  not  fry  them.  They  may  be  served  on  a  quartered 
round  of  buttered  toast  or  separately,  as  desired. 

Brussels  Sprouts,  Maitre   d' Hotel. 

Boil  the  sprouts  to  be  used  and  then  place  them  in  a  large  saucepan  with  a  lump 
of  butter  and  heat  them  well.  Put  a  half  pound  of  fresh  butter  »n  a  pan  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  a  couple  of  lemons,  a  little  salt 


VEGETABLES.  441 

and  white  pepper,  and  mix  together  well  with  a  spatula,  and  when  it  boils  stir  quickly. 
Place  the  sprouts  on  a  dish  and  turn' the  sauce  over  them. 

Brussels   Sprouts   Sauted. 

One  pound  of  Brussels  sprouts  should  be  thoroughly  washed  and  boiled,  and 
then  put  into  a  pan  over  the  fire,  together  with  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter,  a  little 
salt,  and  tossed  for  eight  minutes.  Sprinkle  over  them  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and 
serve,  when  done. 

Brussels  Sprouts  Sauted  with   Cream. 

One  pound  of  sprouts  should  be  carefully  pared,  picked  and  blanched;  drain  and 
put  into  a  sautepan  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  veloute  sauce;  season  with  a  little  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  add  half  a  breakfast  cupful  of  sweet  cream.  Heat  well,  but 
do  not  allow  them  to  come  to  a  boil  for  five  to  six  minutes,  tossing  them  frequently 
to  prevent  burning.  Dress  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Cabbage   and   Cream. 

Take  a  well  blanched  cabbage,  drain,  cool  and  chop  it  up  fine,  placing  it  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  couple  of  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg; 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirring  well,  and  then  pour  in  a  breakfast  cupful  of 
cream.  Reduce  until  the  cabbage  and  cream  are  thoroughly  mixed,  say  about  forty- 
five  minutes;  arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Cabbages. 

Remove  the  outside  leaves  of  the  cabbages  and  place  in  salted  water  to  cleanse 
them,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  salted,  and  boil  fast;  do  not  use 
a  lid  for  the  saucepan.  When  done,  strain  well,  cut  into  quarters,  serving  them  at 
once.  When  boiling  it  is  well  to  change  the  water  every  ten  minutes,  as  this  produces 
a  better  flavor. 

Stuffed  Cabbage. 

Procure  a  large  head  of  cabbage,  boil  it  but  not  quite  tender;  then  very  care- 
fully take  out  the  middle  and  fill  the  cavity  with  a  mixture  of  a  tablespoonful  of 
minced  suet,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bacon  or  ham,  a  like  amount  of  cold  meat,  one 
raw  egg,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  Milk  may  be  used  instead  of  the  egg  if  desired.  Tie  with  the  string  and  put 
the  cabbage  in  the  oven,  baking  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Place  on  a  dish  and  pour 
some  rich  brown  gravy  around  it,  but  not  over  it.  The  cabbage  should  be  frequently 
basted  with  dripping  or  butter,  and  must  not  be  allowed  to  burn  or  become  brown. 


442  VEGETABLES. 

Cabbage   with    Cream. 

Clean  two  cabbages  and  boil  until  soft,  then  remove  them  from  the  water  and 
drain,  pressing  well  until  dry.  Chop  up  fine  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  in  which 
an  ounce  of  butter  had  been  melted,  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Place  the  whole 
over  the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  When  quite  hot  sprinkle 
a  handful  of  flour  over,  adding  gradually  half  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream.  Mix  together 
thoroughly,  and  serve. 

Boiled    Pickled   Red   Cabbage   with   Oysters. 

Place  the  pickled  cabbage  in  a  bowl  of  boiling  water  and  soak  for  ten  to  twelve 
minutes.  Then  remove  and  drain  it  dry,  rubbing  well  with  a  cloth,  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  dripping  and  stock  and  sprinkle  over  a  little  coarse 
black  pepper  and  boil  it  until  done,  when  place  it  in  a  circle  around  a  dish,  filling  in 
the  center  with  stewed  oysters,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Red   Cabbage. 

Wash  well  a  head  of  red  cabbage,  cut  the  leaves  apart,  trimming  off  all  tough 
parts;  peel  and  slice  one  onion,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  cold  gravy,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt.  Put  in  the  cabbage,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  over  it  and 
cover  the  pan  closely.  Cook  gently  for  an  hour  or  until  the  cabbage  is  tender, 
stirring  occasionally,  and  serve  hot. 

Baked    Cardoons  with   Breadcrumbs. 

Blanch  and  boil  a  sufficient  number  of  cardoons;  place  them  on  a  dish  well 
buttered  and  sprinkled  with  grated  bread,  cover  them  with  breadcrumbs,  pour  over 
sufficient  warm  butter  to  moisten,  and  brown  the  surface  either  with  a  salamander  or 
in  the  oven.  When  done,  take  out  the  cardoons,  and  serve.  A  little  grated  cheese 
may  also  be  sprinkled  over  with  the  breadcrumbs. 

Cardoons,  Spanish   Style. 

Secure  some  very  white  heads  of  cardoons,  cut  each  leaf  into  slices  six  inches  in 
length  (with  the  exception  of  the  hollow  ones  which  are  tough  and  thready),  and 
remove  all  the  prickles.  Place  the  thickest  leaves  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  leaves  of  the  heart,  turn  the  middle  stalks 
into  olive  shapes,  put  them  into  the  boiling  water,  and  blanch  them  also;  try  a 
piece  in  cold  water  to  see  whether  the  slime  which  is  on  the  surface  will  come  off  by 


VEGETABLES.  443 

rubbing;  if  so,  take  them  off  the  fire  immediately,  refresh  them  in  cold  water,  wash 
and  rub  this  all  off.  Prepare  a  sauce  as  follows:  Cut  about  half  a  pound  of  fat  bacon, 
and  a  small  piece  of  beef  suet  into  large  squares;  put  these  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  half  a  lemon  cut  into  thin  slices,  a  small  lump  of  salt,  and  as  much 
water  as  may  be  necessary  to  cover  the  cardoons  when  they  are  added.  Stew  this  for 
half  an  hour,  then  throw  in  the  cardoons  and  boil  them  up  once,  and  leave  in.  When 
ready  to  use  the  cardoons,  trim  them  at  both  ends,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  one 
teacupful  each  of  Spanish  sauce  and  broth,  and  a  small  quantity  of  both  sugar  and 
salt;  then  boil  over  a  sharp  fire  so  as  not  to  cook  them  too  much,  keeping  the  fat 
well  skimmed  off.  When  cooked  arrange  the  cardoons  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce 
over  them,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Cardoons  with   Beef  Marrow. 

Take  some  cardoons  prepared  as  in  cardoons  for  garnish,  arrange  them  in  a  silver 
saucepan,  and  pour  over  a  little  Spanish  sauce.  Blanch  some  beef  marrow  by  placing 
it  in  boiling  water,  take  it  out,  drain,  and  spread  on  pieces  of  toast  cut  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  two  inches  long  and  an  inch  wide ;  sprinkle  these  over  with  salt, 
glaze,  and  put  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  four  or  five  minutes.  Arrange  the  cardoons  on 
a  dish,  place  the  pieces  of  toast  on  top,  and  serve. 

Cardoons   with  Cheese. 

Take  the  outside  leaves  from  five  cardoons,  string  the  white  parts,  and  cut  into 
small  pieces  ;  put  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  port  wine,  cook  on  a  slow  fire  until 
tender.  Season  to  taste,  and  add  one  ounce  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Put  the  whole 
in  a  dish,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  an  orange,  and  sprinkle  over  four  ounces  of  grated 
cheese.  Brown  the  surface  with  a  salamander,  or  in  the  oven.  Serve  as  hot  as 
possible. 

Cardoons  with  Veloute  Sauce. 

Cut  the  leaves  of  the  cardoons  into  slices,  with  the  exception  of  the  tough  hollow 
ones,  and  remove  all  the  prickles.  Place  the  thickest  leaves  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  boil  them  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  put  in  the  leaves  of  the  heart ;  trim  the 
middle  stocks  into  large  olives,  and  after  blanching  them  put  them  in  also.  Rub  a 
piece  of  the  cardoons  in  cold  water  in  order  to  determine  whether  the  slime  will 
come  off  easily,  and  if  so,  throw  in  the  lot  and  rub  them  well.  When  quite  clean, 
put  the  cardoons  in  white  sauce,  and  boil  them.  Then  remove  the  cardoons,  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  stockbroth,  and  boil  them  quickly.  When  cooked,  put 
them  on  a  hot  dish,  drain  them,  pour  over  some  hot  veloute  sauce,  and  serve.  If  pre- 
ferred, French  melted  butter  can  be  used  in  place  of  the  sauce  veloute. 


444  VEGETABLES. 

Carrot    Fritters. 

Beat  into  pulp  a  large  boiled  carrot,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  mix  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  stirring  in  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Put  a  piece  of  lard  in  a  fry- 
ingpan,  and  when  this  is  hot,  shape  the  mixture  into  fritters  and  fry  them.  When 
done,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish  and  serve  with  brown  sauce. 

Carrots,    Housekeeper's   Style. 

Peel  some  young  carrots  and  leave  them  in  cold  water  for  a  short  time;  slice 
them  thin  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  half  full  of  good  broth,  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  mace  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  parsley,  and  stew  until  they  are  tender. 
When  done,  put  them  on  a  dish.  Mix  some  flour  with  a  little  liquor  in  a  cup,  stir  it 
in  with  the  other  and  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  browning.  When  thick,  pour 
it  over  the  carrots,  and  serve. 

Carrots,    Maitre   d' Hotel. 

Scrape  a  number  of  carrots,  cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise  and  boil  them  in 
salted  water.  When  they  are  tender,  take  them  out  of  the  water,  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  some  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  salt  and  sugar, 
squeezing  the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  them.  Toss  them  about  over  a  moderate  fire  for 
a  few  minutes  then  pour  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Mashed  Carrots. 

Scrape  and  wash  some  carrots,  cut  them  in  quarters  lengthwise  and  boil  till  ten- 
der in  broth.  When  they  are  done,  strain,  pass  them  through  a  sieve  and  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  a  lump  of  butter.  Fill  some  cups  or  moulds  with  the 
pulp,  press  it  down  tightly  and  then  turn  them  out.  This  is  a  very  tasty  form  of 
serving  carrots. 

Carrots,    Poulette   Style. 

Wash  and  scrape  the  required  number  of  carrots,  place  them  in  a  bowl  of 
boiling  water  to  scald.  Take  them  out,  drain,  slice,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of 
boiling- water  with  a  bit  of  butter  in  it,  and  boil  until  they  are  done  and  quite  tender. 
Put  a  little  flour  and  butter  into  a  fryingpan,  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  sprinkle  in  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  add  a  little  lemon  juice,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  some  rich  stock. 
Then  place  the  carrots  in  it  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  so  as  to  cook  without  boiling. 
Turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Carrots   Stewed   in   Sugar   and  Cream. 

Scrape  and  clean  six  or  eight  large,  sound  carrots,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of 
water  and  boil  until  they  are  done  and  nearly  all  the  water  is  absorbed  or  evaporated. 


VEGETABLES.  445 

Mash  the  carrots,  pour  in  a  little  milk  and  one  tablespoonful  of  potato  flour,  a  few 
dried  orange  flowers  and  a  very  little  sifted  crushed  loaf-sugar;  stir  in  a  sufficient 
number  of  eggs  to  thicken,  using  three  yolks  to  two  whites,  and  whipping  them  well 
with  warmed  butter.  Heat  the  mixture  in  the  oven  until  it  is  of  the  required  consist- 
ence, then  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot  with  powdered  sugar  sprinkled 
over. 

Carrots  with    Fine   Herbs. 

Wash  and  scrape  about  three  large  carrots,  cut  them  into  thick  slices,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  salt  and  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  boil  until  they  are 
tender.  Put  a  small  lump  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  place  it  over  the  fire  until 
melted,  then  put  in  a  small  finely-chopped  onion,  and  toss  it  about  over  the  fire  until 
it  is  browned.  Pour  a  pint  of  water,  or  clear  broth,  over  the  onion  and  boil  it  for  five 
minutes.  Drain  the  carrots  and  put  them  in  with  the  onion,  add  about  one  dessert- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley,  and  boil  for  three  or  four  minutes  longer.  Remove 
the  carrots  from  the  fire,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  season  to  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Turn  the  stew  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Cauliflower, 

Trim  off  the  leaves  of  a  sound,  firm  head  of  cauliflower  and  wash  it  well  in  plenty 
of  cold  water  in  which  a  handful  of  salt  has  been  dissolved.  If  any  insects  are  visible 
between  the  branches  of  the  cauliflower  let  it  soak  in  salted  water,  with  the  flowerets 
down,  for  an  hour  or  so,  as  the  salt  will  kill  the  insects  and  they  will  fall  down  into 
the  water.  About  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  serving  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper  into  a 
saucepan  large  enough  to  hold  the  cauliflower;  take  from  it  the  salted  water,  put  it 
at  once  into  the  saucepan  without  draining  it,  cover  carefully,  set  it  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  let  simmer  until  tender,  which  will  be  in  about  half  an  hour.  Then  without 
breaking  the  cauliflower  take  it  up  on  a  hot  dish,  let  the  butter  and  water  in  which  it 
was  cooked  boil  rapidly  for  a  minute  or  so,  then  pour  it  over  the  cauliflower,  and 
serve.  If  a  thick  sauce  is  desired,  mix  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  or  cornstarch  dis- 
solved in  one  teacupful  of  water  with  the  butter  and  water,  boiling  it  constantly  for 
two  minutes,  stirring  frequently,  and  then  serve  it  with  the  cauliflower.  After  it  is 
carefully  washed  the  cauliflower  may  be  boiled  till  it  is  tender,  and  then  drained  and 
served  with  white  sauce;  or  covered  with  sauce  and  breadcrumbs  and  browned  in  a 
hot  oven;  or  when  the  heads  are  small  and  defective,  either  boiled  or  served  in 
branches  instead  of  whole,  or  mashed  through  a  colander,  and  heated  with  pepper, 
salt  and  butter.  Cold  boiled  cauliflower  is  very  palatable  fried  plain  in  butter,  or 
broken  in  branches  and  served;  or  mashed  and  fried,  with  the  adding  of  an  egg,  and 
salt  and  pepper. 


446  VEGETABLES. 

Boiled   Cauliflower,   American    Style. 

Pluck  off  the  outside  leaves  and  soak  in  cold  salted  water,  top  downwards  for  an 
hour  to  thoroughly  cleanse  it;  then  tie  it  in  a  twine  bag  to  prevent  breaking,  and  cook 
in  salted  boiling  water  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  quite  tender.  If  it  is  not 
boiled  in  a  bag,  remove  the  scum  before  it  settles  on  the  cauliflower.  Serve  in  a 
shallow  dish  and  cover  it  with  a  cream  of  hollandaise  sauce,  or  add  a  little  grated 
cheese;  cover  with  cracker-crumbs  moistened  in  melted  butter  and  bake  until  the 
crumbs  are  done  brown,  or  when  cold,  serve  as  a  salad  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Cauliflower   Fritters. 

Cut  into  equal-sized  pieces  two  well-boiled  cauliflowers,  dip  each  piece  into  thick 
yellow  or  white  sauce,  and  place  them  one  side  to  cool.  Take  them  out  with  a  spoon, 
put  them  into  a  basin  of  frying-batter,  plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  and 
fry  to  a  good  color.  Serve  very  hot  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish.  If  it  is  pre- 
ferred, the  pieces  of  cauliflower  may  be  dipped  into  vinegar,  oil,  salt  and  pepper 
mixed  together  in  place  of  the  batter,  and  then  fried. 

Gratinated   Cauliflowers. 

After  trimming  off  the  leaves  of  two  or  three  cauliflowers,  leaving  only  the  cen- 
ters, boil  them  in  water  until  they  are  about  two-thirds  done ;  then  remove,  drain  and 
divide  into  sprigs  or  natural  sections.  Place  a  layer  of  these  on  the  bottom  of  a 
baking-dish,  cover  them  with  a  sauce  made  of  melted  butter  in  which  grated  Par- 
mesan and  Gruyere  cheese  have  been  mixed,  and  keep  on  in  this  way  with  the  layers 
until  the  dish  is  full.  Sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  cheese  on  the  top,  and  then  a  few 
breadcrumbs  or  grated  bread,  pour  over  the  top  a  little  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  done  and  of  a  good  cofor.  If  the  cheese  is  not  desired,  it  may  be 
entirely  discarded ;  but  if  it  is  used  it  should  be  mixed  with  the  sauce  and  not  simply 
grated  on  the  top.  Care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  every  portion  of  the  cauliflower  is 
covered  with  the  sauce. 

Cauliflowers   in   Mayonnaise. 

Select  some  large  cold  boiled  cauliflowers  and  break  them  into  small  branches, 
adding  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar  to  properly  season;  then  heap  them  on  a  dish 
so  that  they  will  form  a  point.  Surround  the  dish  with  a  garnish  of  cooked  carrots, 
turnips  and  green  vegetables,  pour  some  white  mayonnaise  sauce  over  all,  and  serve. 

Mashed   Cauliflowers. 

After  boiling  two  cauliflowers  cut  the  heads  up  into  small  branches.  Put  one 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  place 


VEGETABLES.  447 

the  pan  on  a  slow  fire  for  about  fifteen  minutes;  then  throw  in  the  cauliflowers  and 
beat  well  with  a  wooden  spoon;  put  in  ten  or  a  dozen  tablespoonfuls  of  good  white 
broth  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  boil  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  longer, 
adding  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pass  the  mixture 
through  a  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  add  about  a  gill  of  cream  or  milk,  and  serve. 
If  it  is  too  thick  add  more  milk. 

Stewed   Cauliflower. 

Divide  into  branches  or  sprigs  two  or  three  cauliflowers  and  put  these  into  hot 
water  for  three  minutes  to  scald;  then  drain,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  cover  over 
with  stock,  sprinkle  over  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  boil  them  until  they  are  done. 
Take  them  out,  drain,  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter  and 
some  finely-chopped  parsley  and  toss  the  pan  for  a  few  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire. 
Turn  them  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Cauliflower  with    Cream   Sauce. 

In  the  usual  way  cauliflower  takes  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes  to  cook,  and 
it  should  not  be  allowed  to  boil  rapidly  or  it  will  destroy  the  small  flowerets.  Test 
the  stems  with  a  fork,  and  remove  as  soon  as  tender.  Put  a  piece  of  bicarbonate  of 
soda  the  size  of  a  bean  into  the  water,  and  this  will  hasten  the  cooking  without  injur- 
ing the  cauliflower.  Divide  the  cauliflower  into  portions  of  convenient  size  before 
cooking,  and  when  drained  and  dished  up  pour  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  strained 
cream-sauce  over  each  portion 

Cauliflowers   with    Parmesan    Cheese. 

Take  a  cauliflower  and  break  it  into  tufts,  wash  these  thoroughly  and  put  them 
into  salted  boiling  water,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  cook  too  soft.  When  cooked  put 
each  piece  into  warmed  butter  first  and  then  strain  them  into  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
seasoned  with  dry  mustard,  pepper  and  salt.  Place  the  pieces  neatly  together  on  a 
dish,  pour  over  a  little  warmed  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  five  minutes.  When 
done,  serve  immediately. 

Boiled    Celery. 

j 

Trim  off  all  outside  pieces,  and  suppress  the  roots  of  three  heads  of  celery,  cut 
them  into  lengths  of  six  inches  each,  wash  well  and  tie  together.  Cover  them  with 
boiling  water  in  a  saucepan,  add  a  piece  of  mace,  some  peppercorns,  an  onion,  and  a 
little  salt,  and  then  boil.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  it  is  melted  add  sufficient  water  to  that  in  which 
the  celery  was  boiled  to  make  the  sauce.  Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  With  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  when  the  sauce  is  off  the  fire  stir  it  in,  adding  a  pinch  of  salt.  When  the 


448  VEGETABLES. 

celery   is  done,  place  it  on  a  dish,  cut  off  the  string  that  fastens  it  together,  and  pour 
over  the  sauce. 

Braised  Celery. 

Select  a  few  heads  of  celery,  and  trim  each  stalk,  leaving  nothing  but  the  white 
part;  then  tie  them  in  bundles  and  parboil  them  for  about  ten  minutes,  next  throwing 
them  into  cold  water.  After  a  few  minutes  remove  and  drain  them  on  a  sieve  ;  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  good  white  stock,  and  let  simmer  gently  for  about  an 
hour.  When  done  drain  them  upon  a  napkin,  and  dish  up  upon  croutons  of  fried 
bread.  Pour  over  some  good  brown  sauce  to  which  has  been  added  a  little  chicken 
glaze,  and  serve. 

Fried  Celery. 

Boil  two  or  three  sound,  well-trimmed  heads  of  celery  till  they  are  about  half 
cooked,  or  a  trifle  more  ;  remove,  drain  thoroughly,  cut  them  into  short  lengths,  dip 
them  in  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  to  a  light  brown.  If  it  is  well  done  this  dish  is 
very  tasty;  but  it  is  useless  to  attempt  it  without  a  deep  fryingpan,  and  plenty  of  oil 
or  fat  to  fry  in. 

Stewed    Celery. 

Trim  a  few  heads  of  celery,  and  blanch  them  in  boiling  water,  drain,  and  place 
them  in  cold  water.  Take  them  out  when  cold  and  drain  all  the  water  from  them 
without  squeezing.  Place  them  in  a  pan  with  a  little  consomme  or  stock  broth  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  moistened  sugar,  and  allow  them  to  stew  for  an  hour  and  a  half; 
then  pour  over  them  four  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  or  veloute  sauce;  strain  the 
whole  through  a  strainer,  and  set  in  a  bain-marie.  When  it  is  ready  to  serve,  add  to 
the  sauce  a  little  thick  cream,  which  will  enrich  and  make  it  white. 

Celery   with   Marrow. 

Wash  and  trim  ten  or  a  dozen  heads  of  celery  and  put  them  in  boiling  water  to 
blanch  for  ten  minutes;  then  drain,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  cover  with  white  stock 
and  allow  them  to  boil  gently  until  they  are  done  and  tender.  Then  drain  again, 
dress  them  on  thin  slices  of  toasted  bread  on  a  dish  with  four  large  pieces  of  boiled 
marrow  around  and  pour  over  one  pint  of  good  brown  sauce.  Previously  reduce  the 
sauce  with  one-half  pint  of  the  sauce  in  which  the  celery  was  stewed,  adding  a  little 
sugar  to  season  it. 

Cepes  in   Shells. 

Select  some  small  sound  cepes,  mince  the  heads,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with 
a  small  lump  of  butter  and  fry  them  gently,  tossing  them  about,  season  to  taste, 
throw  in  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  when  the  moisture  has  evaporated  put  in 
a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  that  has  been  reduced  until  it  is  of  a  creamy 


VEGETABLES.  449 

mixture.  Fill  some  silver  shells  with  the  above,  level  the  surface  with  a  knife-blade 
and  sprinkle  on  some  grated  breadcrumbs;  baste  each  with  a  tablespoonful  of  warm 
butter  and  brown  them  under  a  salamander  or  in  an  oven.  When  the  surface  is 
glazed  over  arrange  the  shells  on  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  and 
serve.  A  few  sprigs  of  fried  parsley  improves  the  appearance  of  the  dish. 

Boiled   Chestnuts   Served   as   a  Vegetable. 

Peel  off  the  outside  skin  of  the  chestnuts  and  steep  them  in  boiling  water 
until  the  skin  can  be  quickly  and  easily  removed,  throwing  them  as  they  are  peeled 
into  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed.  Then  pour  in 
one-half  pint  or  more  of  clear  broth  (according  to  the  quantity  of  chestnuts),  and 
continue  to  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Season  the  sauce  with  salt,  throw  in  the 
chestnuts  and  keep  them  simmering  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  soft.  When  served  in 
this  way  they  make  a  good  vegetable  for  roasted  meats  or  poultry,  particularly 
turkey. 

Boiled  Corn. 

Choose  short,  thick  ears  of  fresh  corn  ;  remove  all  the  husks  except  the  inner 
layer;  strip  that  down  in  order  to  remove  all  the  silk  from  the  corn  and  to  permit  the 
removal  of  any  defective  grains,  and  then  replace  it,  and  tie  at  the  upper  end  of  each 
ear  of  corn.  Have  ready  a  large  pot  half  full  of  boiling  water,  put  in  the  corn,  and 
boil  steadily  for  about  twenty  minutes  if  the  ears  are  large,  or  fifteen  minutes  if  they 
are  only  of  medium  size;  then  take  from  the  boiling  water,  remove  the  strings;  serve 
hot  at  once.  If  it  seems  desirable  to  strip  off  the  inner  husk  just  before  sending  to 
the  table,  this  must  be  done  very  quickly  and  the  corn  covered  with  a  clean  napkin 
or  cloth  to  prevent  the  escape  of  heat.  Serve  plenty  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  with 
the  corn.  Sometimes  these  latter  are  mixed,  by  heating  them,  together,  and  then 
served  in  a  gravy-bowl.  The  fresher  the  corn  the  sweeter  it  is.  It  seems  to  lose  its 
most  delicate  flavor  after  having  been  gathered  for  a  few  hours. 

Corn  Cakes. 

Mix  thoroughly  together  one  quart  of  Indian  corn  removed  from  the  ear  with  a 
coarse  grater,  two  teacupfuls  of  new  milk,  one  teacupful  of  flour,  and  two  well-beaten 
eggs;  season  the  batter  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake  in  cakes  upon  a  griddle. 
The  corn  should  be  in  a  condition  most  suitable  for  roasting  or  boiling.  This  is  a 
very  nice  dish. 

Corn   Fritters. 

Prepare  four  ears  of  fresh  corn  by  removing  the  outer  husks  and  silks;  boil, 
then  drain  well,  cut  the  grains  from  the  cobs  to  place  in  a  bowl,  season  with  salt  and 


450  VEGETABLES. 

pepper,  add  one-fourth  pound  of  sifted  flour,  two  eggs  and  one-half  pint  of  cold 
milk.  Stir  vigorously,  but  do  not  beat,  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  five  minutes,  when 
it  will  be  sufficiently  firm.  Butter  a  fryingpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  then  take  a  ladle 
holding  one  gill,  and  with  this  put  the  preparation  into  the  pan  in  twelve  parts,  being 
careful  that  they  do  not  touch  one  another,  and  let  them  get  a  good  golden  color, 
cooking  for  four  or  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Dress  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  and 
serve. 

Grated   Corn. 

Place  the  necessary  number  of  ears  of  Indian  corn  in  a  saucepan  and  boil 
them.  Grate  off  the  cob,  add  a  little  butter,  salt  and  cream,  put  the  mixture  into  a 
dish,  and  serve  like  a  vegetable. 

Mashed   Corn. 

Wash  and  drain  about  one  quart  of  fresh  corn  cut  from  the  cob,  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  a  bunch  of  thyme,  two  or  three  small 
onions,  one  carrot,  two  or  three  cloves,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil  the  corn 
until  tender,  then  pour  it  onto  a  fine  wire  sieve,  remove  the  onions,  thyme,  parsley, 
carrot  and  cloves.  Return  the  corn  to  the  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  rich 
broth  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  all  together  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes. 
Serve  the  puree  very  hot. 

Roasted   Corn. 

Remove  the  silks  and  husks  from  one  dozen  ears  of  corn,  rub  them  with  butter, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  lay  them  in  a  drippingpan,  and  place  the  pan  as  close 
as  possible  to  a  clear  hot  fire.  Turn  the  ears  now  and  then,  and  change  their  position 
in  the  pan  so  that  all  may  cook  evenly.  When  they  are  browned,  serve  hot. 

Corn   Stewed   with    Cream. 

Select  half  a  dozen  ears  of  Indian  corn,  remove  the  silk  and  outer  leaves  and 
place  them  in  a  saucepan  covering  with  water,  cook,  drain  and  cut  off  the  corn  from 
the  cobs  with  a  sharp  knife,  being  very  careful  that  none  of  the  cob  adheres  to  the 
corn,  and  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  one  teacupful  of  hot  bechamel  sauce,  one-half 
breakfast  cupful  of  cream  and  about  one-fourth  ounce  of  butter.  Season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Cook  gently  on  the  stove  for  five  minutes,  place 
it  in  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Cucumbers   as   Cardoons. 

Quarter  some  cucumbers  lengthwise,  scrape  out  the  seeds  and  slit  the  outsides 
so  that  they  may  resemble  cardoons.  Blanch  them  in  boiling  water,  stew  in  strong 
broth  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Spanish  sauce  and  boil  over  a  sharp  fire. 
Should  the  broth  taste  bitter,  put  in  a  little  piece  of  sugar.  Serve  hot. 


VEGETABLES.  451 

Cucumbers,   Bechamel. 

Take  one  or  two  cucumbers;  remove  the  peel  and  seeds,  cut  into  slices,  blanch 
in  hot  salted  water,  drain  and  plunge  them  into  cold  water;  take  them  out  and  dry. 
Pour  some  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  warm  the  slices  of 
cucumber  in  it  without  letting  the  sauce  boil.  Turn  the  whole  out  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Cucumbers,    French   Style. 

Peel  a  green  cucumber,  slice  it  very  thin,  put  in  a  basin  with  half  an  ounce  of 
salt,  and  pickle  for  four  hours.  Drain  well  and  arrange  the  slices  on  a  dish  with  pep- 
per, oil,  vinegar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  herbs,  such  as  parsley,  chervil  and 
tarragon  put  over  the  slices. 

Fried   Cucumbers. 

Select  two  or  three  cucumbers;  cut  into  thick  slices  and  remove  the  seeds;  then 
place  them  in  a  deep  dish  with  salted  water  slightly  acidulated  with  vinegar  and  let 
them  soak  for  about  an  hour.  Take  them  out  and  dry  and  drain  on  a  cloth,  then  fry 
in  boiling  lard  until  a  light  brown;  drain,  and  they  are  ready  for  use.  They  are  gen- 
erally used  for  brown  stews. 

Stewed  Cucumbers. 

Peel  some  cucumbers,  split  them  lengthwise  in  four  pieces  each,  scoop  out  the 
seeds,  and  wash;  cut  into  smaller  pieces  and  place  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with 
a  lump  of  salt,  and  boil  till  tender;  drain  and  dry  on  a  cloth.  Into  a  stewpan  put 
two  ounces  of  butter  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  until  well 
mixed;  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  cucumber,  moisten  nearly  to  height  with  broth, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  stir  the  whole 
over  the  fire  until  the  liquor  has  reduced  to  the  required  thickness.  When  ready,  take 
the  saucepan  off  the  fire,  place  it  at  the  side,  and  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs 
and  a  few  drops  of  vinegar. 

f     ' 

Boiled   Eggplant. 

Peel  the  eggplants,  cut  them  into  moderate-sized  pieces,  put  them  into  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water  with  a  lump  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  parsley,  and  an  onion  stuck  with  two 
or  three  cloves,  and  boil  them  until  tender.  Prepare  the  following  sauce:  Put  one 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  small  stewpan  with  one-third  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  mix  it 
over  the  fire;  then  stir  in  a  small  bottle  of  tomato  sauce,  and  keep  on  stirring  until 
boiling,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  cooked,  drain  the  eggplant, 
place  them  on  a  hot  vegetable  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  while  very  hot. 


452  VEGETABLES. 

Boiled   Eggplant   with    Parmesan    Cheese. 

Peel  the  eggplant,  cut  it  into  halves  lengthwise,  and  scoop  out  the  seeds;  then 
cut  them  into  convenient  lengths,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with 
a  lump  of  salt,  an  onion  stuck  with  three  or  four  cloves,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and 
boil  them  until  tender.  Prepare  the  following  sauce:  Mix  well  one  ounce  of  butter 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire;  then  mix  in  gradually  one- 
half  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  then  move  it  to  the 
side  and  stir  in  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon.  When  the  eggplant  is  cooked,  drain  it  well, 
put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  with  some  pieces  of  toast  underneath,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and 
serve. 

Broiled   Eggplant. 

Peel  an  eggplant  and  cut  it  into  six  slices  half  an  inch  thick ;  put  them  in  a  dish 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  over  one  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil.  Mix 
well,  arrange  the  slices  on  a  broiler  and  broil  for  five  minutes  on  each  side.  Remove 
them  from  the  fire,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  spread  over  a  gill  of  maitre  d'hotel  sauce,  and 
serve. 

Fried   Eggplant. 

Select  a  nice  large  eggplant,  peel  it,  remove  the  seeds  and  cut  it  into  pieces 
about  one  and  one-half  inches  long  and  three-fourths  of  an  inch  wide.  Put  these  on 
a  plate,  sprinkle  them  well  with  salt,  and  leave  for  an  hour  or  two.  Afterward  put 
them  on  a  cloth,  twist  it  round  and  wring  it  well  to  extract  as  much  juice  as  possible 
from  the  plant,  but  do  not  squeeze  the  pieces  hard  enough  to  break  them.  Sprinkle 
them  over  with  flour,  seeing  that  each  piece  is  well  covered,  and  place  them  in  a  fry- 
ing-basket.  Put  a  large  lump  of  fat  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  put  it  in  the 
basket.  As  each  piece  of  plant  is  nicely  browned  take  it  out  of  the  basket,  sprinkle 
it  lightly  with  salt,  and  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper  in  front  of  the  fire  for  a  minute  or 
two,  to  drain  as  free  from  fat  as  possible.  Spread  a  napkin  over  a  hot  dish,  lay  the 
eggplant  on  it,  and  serve. 

Fried  Eggplant  with    Parmesan   Cheese. 

Peel  the  eggplant,  cut  it  into  quarters  lengthwise,  scoop  out  the  seeds  and  cut  it 
into  convenient  lengths.  Rub  a  stewpan  over  with  garlic,  put  in  a  large  lump  of 
butter,  and  melt  it  ;  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  eggplant,  season  to  taste  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  toss  them  about  over  the  fire. 
Before  the  eggplant  is  quite  done  put  in  plenty  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  add 
more  butter  if  necessary.  When  quite  tender  turn  the  eggplant  onto  a  hot  dish, 
with  the  cheese  over  it,  garnish  with  sippets  of  hot  buttered  toast,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES.  453 

Eggplant   Fritters. 

Boil  the  eggplant  in  salted  water  mixed  with  a  little  lemon  juice;  when  tender, 
skin,  drain  and  mash  them.  For  every  pint  of  pulp  add  half  a  breakfast  cupful  of 
flour,  take  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Shape  into 
small  fritters,  put  them  in  boiling  fat,  and  fry  both  sides  until  brown. 

Eggplant,   Lyonnese. 

Peel  the  eggplant  and  cut  it  into  round  slices  about  one-third  of  an  inch  thick. 
Peel  and  slice  a  couple  of  onions,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  plenty  of  butter  and 
fry  them  until  lightly  browned;  then  put  in  the  slices  of  eggplant,  season  to  taste 
with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  pour  over  a  small  quantity  of  stock  and  stew 
gently  until  tender.  When  cooked,  stew  a  moderate  quantity  of  finely-minced  pars- 
ley over  the  eggplant,  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish  with  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

Mashed   Eggplant. 

Place  in  a  dish  a  large  onion  cut  in  slices;  add  two  green  peppers  also  cut  in 
slices,  squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a  sweet  lime  and  soak  for  several  hours.  Put  into  a 
quick  oven  a  couple  of  fine  young  eggplants  and  roast  them;  take  them  out  when 
done,  open  and  scoop  out  as  much  of  the  inside  as  possible.  Put  this  into  a  basin; 
add  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt,  mustard  and  oil  and  work  the  whole  to  a  pulp,  cast- 
ing out  all  the  lumps.  Then  add  the  onions  and  peppers  and  as  much  of  the  lime 
juice  as  required.  After  mixing  thoroughly,  the  preparation  is  ready  for  use. 


Eggplant,    Poulette   Style. 


Peel  the  eggplant,  cut  it  in  halves,  remove  the  seeds  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces. 
Put  a  large  lump  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  to  melt,  put  in  the  pieces  of  eggplant,  toss  them 
about  for  a  few  minutes,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  over  them  a 
small  quantity  of  clear  broth.  Let  them  stew  over  a  gentle  fire  until  quite  cooked, 
then  move  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  moderate  quantity  of  finely- 
minced  parsley,  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  that  has  been  beaten  up  with  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  and  strained.  Lay  the  pieces  of  eggplant  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
over  them,  and  serve. 


Stewed   Eggplant. 


Peel  some  young,  tender  eggplant,  and  cut  them  into  convenient-sized  pieces: 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter,  season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  pour  in  as  much 
plain  stock  freed  from  fat  as  will  reach  to  half  their  height,  and  boil  them  gently 


454  VEGETABLES. 

until  they  are  quite  tender.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
quickly  the  yolk  of  an  egg  that  has  been  well  beaten  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and 
strained,  and  add  about  one  tablespoonful  of  finely-minced  parsley.  Place  some 
slices  of  hot  buttered  toast  onto  a  hot  dish,  turn  the  eggplant  onto  it,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Stewed   Eggplant   with   Onions. 

Take  an  eggplant,  cut  it  into  thin  slices  lengthwise,  dust  them  over  with  salt  and 
let  them  remain  until  the  bitter  juice  is  extracted;  then  drain  and  put  them  in  a  fry- 
ingpan  with  olive  oil  or  butter,  and  brown  over  a  brisk  fire.  Take  them  out  of  the 
pan  and  lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish.  Peel  four  medium-sized  onions,  cut 
them  in  slices  and  put  them  in  the  fryingpan,  adding  more  olive  oil  or  butter  if  required, 
and  fry  until  browned.  Lay  the  onions  over  the  eggplant,  season  with  salt  and  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  pour  in  one  teacupful  of  water  and  half  that  quantity  of  vine- 
gar, and  set  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire.  When  the  moisture  is  nearly  all  absorbed, 
arrange  the  eggplant  and  onions  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Stuffed  Eggplant. 


Wash  and  dry  six  eggplant;  cut  off  the  tops  without  detaching,  so  they  will 
serve  as  lids.  Scoop  out  all  the  insides  and  season  inwardly  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Take  one  medium-sized  onion,  peel  and  chop  very  fine  and  put  in  a  saucepan  with 
half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  cook  for  three  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  taking  care  not 
to  brown  it;  add  six  chopped  mushrooms  and  one  ounce  of  sausage  meat,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  cook  for  three  minutes  longer,  stirring  constantly.  Now  put  in 
the  insides  of  the  plant,  finely  chopped,  one  teacupful  of  breadcrumbs  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley;  mix  thoroughly  and  cook  for  two  minutes  longer, 
or  until  the  preparation  commences  to  boil.  Turn  it  into  a  basin  when  cold,  stuff  it 
into  the  eggplant  skins,  replace  the  lids,  put  the  plant  gently  on  a  dish,  cover  with 
buttered  paper  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  eighteen  minutes. 

Stewed  Endive  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Take  three  large  heads  of  endive  and  clean  thoroughly;  cut  off  all  the  outer 
green  leaves  and  wash  the  endive  in  several  waters.  Drain  and  blanch  them  in  boiling 
salted  water  for  ten  minutes.  Remove,  cool  in  cold  water,  then  take  them  out  and 
press  out  the  water;  chop  up,  place  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter  and  cook 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  until  dry.  Pour  over  two  wineglassfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  a 
very  little  at  a  time,  reduce,  and  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg,  adding  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Stir  well  and  leave  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  turn  it  out  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  for  a  garnish. 


VEGETABLES.  455 

Green  Peas,  Ancient  Style. 

Take  three  quarts  of  young,  tender  green  peas,  shell  them  carefully,  and  keep 
them  wrapped  up  in  a  wet  cloth  till  wanted.  Clean,  drain,  and  tie  up  a  lettuce  head, 
put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  the  peas,  add  a  little  salt,  cover  with  a  wineglassful  of 
water,  and  add  four  ounces  of  butter.  After  cooking  for  fifteen  minutes,  remove  the 
lettuce,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  peas  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  diluted  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  adding  a  very  little  white  pepper,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  powdered  loaf  sugar.  Let  all  thicken  together  for  five  minutes,  and  serve 
at  once  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

Boiled    Green    Peas. 

Shell  one  peck  of  fresh  green  peas,  wash  them  in  water,  put  them  into  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water  with  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  boil  fast  until  they  are 
tender  (they  should  take  about  ten  minutes),  then  drain,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
butter,  and  serve  at  once.  If  the  peas  are  to  be  served  with  lamb  a  small  bunch  of 
green  mint  should  be  boiled  with  them.  Parsley  and  young  onions  are  sometimes 
boiled  with  green  peas  when  their  flavor  is  desired,  and  frequently  a  little  sugar  is 
added  to  sweeten  them. 

Green    Peas,  Bourgeoise. 

Select  the  required  quantity  of  young  peas,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  butter, 
allowing  eight  ounces  to  every  quart  of  peas;  add  also  the  washed  heart  of  a  large 
lettuce,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  few  small  onions  and  a  little  salt.  Moisten  with  a  little 
broth  and  cook  slowly  until  tender.  Stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  but  do  not  boil  after  the  eggs  are  added.  Turn  the  peas  onto 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Buttered    Green    Peas. 

Put  some  fresh  green  peas  into  a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  a  little  salt  and 
a  small  quantity  of  water,  cover  and  boil  over  a  quick  fire  until  tender.  Knead  one 
ounce  of  butter  with  some  flour,  put  it  in  with  the  peas,  stir  them  till  thickened,  then 
put-in  four  ounces  of  butter  broken  in  little  pieces,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and 
a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  Turn  the  peas  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with 
sippets  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 


Green  Peas,  English  Style. 


Shell  and  wash  two  quarts  or  more  of  green  peas,  remove  the  small  ones,  put 
them  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  a  handful  of  salt  and  boil  quickly 
without  covering  for  fifteen  minutes,  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When  tender 
strain  through  a  colander,  return  them  to  the  saucepan  and  toss  well,  adding  one  and 


456  VEGETABLES. 

one-fourth  ounce  of  fresh   butter.      Dish   them  in  a  vegetable  dish,  place  another  half 
ounce  of  butter  in  the  center,  and  serve. 

Green  Peas,  Peasant  Style. 

Wash  a  few  cabbages  and  long  lettuces,  a  handful  of  parsley  and  three  or  four 
green  onions,  cut  them  into  shreds  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of 
green  peas  and  a  piece  of  butter;  cover  the  pan  and  let  them  cook  over  a  very  slow 
fire  without  any  other  moisture,  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  their  burning.  When 
well  cooked  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  turn  them  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Puree   of  Green    Peas. 

Put  some  green  peas  in  a  saucepan  with  a  very  small  quantity  of  water  and  boil 
them  until  tender,  then  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  the  puree  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  little  broth  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Move  the  saucepan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire,  put  in  one-half  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  moderate-sized  lump  of 
butter,  and  salt  to  taste.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread,  shape  them  into  small  croutons 
and  fry  them  in  butter.  When  lightly  browned  drain  the  croutons,  put  them  in  a  deep 
dish,  and  pour  the  puree  over  them.  Serve  it  with  a  separate  dish  of  boiled  rice. 

Stewed  Green   Peas  with   Bacon. 

Remove  the  rind  from  four  ounces  of  streaky  bacon,  cut  the  bacon  into  small 
pieces,  blanch  them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter  and  fry  for  five  minutes;  put  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  with  the 
bacon,  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  one  quart  of  young  green 
peas,  one  onion,  and  one  pint  of  water.  Bring  it  to  a  boil,  cover  the  saucepan,  move 
it  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour;  take  the  onion  out,  skin 
the  fat  off  the  liquor,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  turn  all  into  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Green   Peas   with  Spanish   Sauce. 

Put  some  young  peas  in  an  earthenware  pan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  plenty 
of  fresh  water;  rub  them  well  with  the  hands  and  drain.  Put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  two  or  three  green  onions,  cover  close,  and  let  them 
sweat.  When  nearly  done  pour  in  with  the  peas  one  and  one-half  teacupfuls  of 
Spanish  sauce,  season  with  sugar  and  salt,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  boil  the  sauce  till 
reduced;  thicken  it  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  serve.  This  is  a  very 
delicious  dish,  and  should  be  freely  garnished  with  a  border  of  small  croutons  of 
bread  fried  in  bacon  fat. 


VEGETABLES.  457 

Stuffed   and  Baked   Green    Peppers. 

Wash  ten  or  a  dozen  large  green  peppers,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil 
for  five  minutes;  take  them  from  the  water  and  remove  the  skins  by  rubbing  with  a 
wet  cloth.  Cut  off  the  stem  ends,  remove  the  seeds  with  a  large  spoon,  and  stuff  the 
peppers  with  any  kind  of  minced  cold  meat,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  stale 
bread  moistened  with  cold  water,  and  properly  season  with  salt.  Replace  the  stems, 
set  the  peppers  in  a  deep  earthen  dish  or  plate,  pour  in  as  much  cold  gravy  as  the 
dish  will  hold,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour.  They  may 
be  stuffed  with  sausage-meat  and  bread.  Serve  on  the  dish  in  which  they  were  baked. 
Cheese  may  be  grated  and  mixed  with  breadcrumbs  for  stuffing  peppers;  and  they 
should  then  be  fried  instead  of  being  baked. 

Baked   Leeks. 

Trim  off  the  fibrous  roots  and  cut  off  the  green  stalks  to  within  one  inch  of  the 
white  portion  of  the  leeks.  Place  them  in  boiling  water  and  soak  for  ten  minutes; 
then  drain,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  a  lump  of  salt  and  boil  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  another  saucepan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed,  then  add  one  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese  and  one  half-  pint  of  stock,  season  to  taste  with  pep- 
per and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  stir  again  and  boil  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes. When  the  leeks  are  cooked,  drain,  place  them  in  a  baking-dish,  pour  half  of 
the  sauce  over  and  stew  thickly  with  grated  cheese,  dust  a  little  cayenne  over  the 
top  and  place  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven  until  lightly  browned.  Remove  the  dish,  pour 
the  remainder  of  the  sauce  round  it,  and  serve. 

Puree    of    Leeks. 

Trim  and  wash  the  required  quantity  of  leeks,  place  them  in  boiling  salted  water 
and  boil  until  tender;  press  the  leeks  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  place  this  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  lump  of  butter,  one-half  pint  of  cream  and  one  teaspoonful  each  of  sugar 
and  flour.  Stir  over  the  fire  and  boil  until  reduced,  then  thicken  it  with  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs.  Turn  the  puree  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread,  and  serve. 

Lentils    and    Bacon. 

Wash  the  lentils,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  cold  water,  a  bay  leaf 
and  a  blade  of  mace  tied  together,  an  onion  stuck  with  three  or  four  cloves  and  boil 
gently  until  soft,  adding  more  boiling  water  now  and  then;  when  cooked,  drain  the 
lentils.  Peel  and  slice  an  onion,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry; 
when  nicely  browned,  put  in  one-fourth  pound  of  fat  bacon  cut  into  small  squares, 


458  VEGETABLES. 

and  when  cooked,  put  in  the  lentils.  Moisten  with  a  little  clear  stock,  season  to 
taste  with  pepper  and  salt  and  add  some  finely-chopped  parsley.  Boil  all  gently  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  turn  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  sip- 
pets of  toast,  or  small  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Lentil   Curry. 

Chop  three  or  four  onions  with  a  clove  of  garlic  and  two  green  peppers,  then 
pound  them  in  a  mortar.  Wash  one-half  pound  of  lentils,  picking  them  over  care- 
fully, put  them  in  a  fryingpan  and  toss  about  over  the  fire  until  browned,  then  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  the  pounded  mixture,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  turmeric, 
a  little  salt  and  cold  water  to  cover,  boiling  until  tender.  When  cooked  drain  all  the 
water  from  the  lentils  and  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  two  sliced  onions  fried  to  a 
golden  brown.  Toss  all  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  with  sippets  of  toast,  and  serve  with  plain  boiled  rice. 

Lentils  with  Onions. 

Pick  the  lentils  over  carefully  and  wash  them  well,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
plenty  of  cold  water  and  boil  until  tender.  When  soft  turn  the  lentils  onto  a  fine 
sieve  and  allow  them  to  drain  thoroughly.  Peel  and  cut  into  thin  slices  a  number  of 
onions,  put  them  into  a  flat  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry.  Put  the  lentils  in 
with  the  onions,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  moisten  with  a  little  clear  stock, 
and  allow  them  to  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  If  the  stock  is 
not  convenient  moisten  with  the  cooking  water  of  the  lentils.  When  ready,  turn 
them  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Baked  Stuffed   Lettuce. 

Pick,  clean,  pare  and  thoroughly  wash  half  a  dozen  lettuce  heads,  parboil  them 
for  five  minutes,  drain  thoroughly  and  fill  the  insides  with  sausage  forcemeat.  Tie 
each  head  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  laying  down  carefully  and  adding  one  gill  of 
Madeira  sauce  and  white  broth.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with 
buttered  paper  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Arrange  on  a  hot  dish, 
untie,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Braised   Lettuces. 

Select  some  fresh  lettuces  with  firm,  white  hearts,  wash  thoroughly  in  several 
waters  and  plunge  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  boil  for  five  minutes. 
Take  out  the  lettuces  with  a  skimmer,  refresh,  then  press  well  with  the  hands  to  ex- 
tract as  much  of  the  water  as  possible.  Put  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  at  the  bottom 
of  a  stewpan,  fold  the  lettuces,  lay  them  in,  season  well  and  cover  with  unskimmed 
brotn.  Place  a  sheet  of  greased  paper  over  the  lettuces  and  braise  for  an  hour  and  a 


VEGETABLES.  459 

quarter  over  a  moderate  fire  with  hot  ashes  on  the  lid  of  the  stewpan.  When  the 
mixture  is  reduced  to  a  glaze  drain  the  lettuces,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over 
some  brown  sauce  or  rich  gravy,  and  serve  at  once. 

Stewed  Lettuce. 

Trim  off  the  outside  leaves  of  some  lettuce,  blanch  in  boiling  water,  rinse  in  cold 
water  and  tie  together  in  twos.  Line  a  saucepan  with  buttered  paper,  put  in  the  let- 
tuce with  some  herbs,  a  few  chopped  onions,  season,  cover  with  stock.  When  boil- 
ing remove  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for  two  hours.  Take 
the  lettuces  out,  untie  and  put  on  a  hot  dish;  reduce  the  liquor  in  which  they  were 
cooked,  strain  through  a  sieve  and  pour  over.  Serve  while  hot. 

Braised  Stuffed   Lettuces. 

Select  the  required  quantity  of  lettuces,  trim,  wash,  blanch  and  drain  them;  then 
cut  out  the  middle  leaves  carefully,  fill  the  hollow  with  a  fowl  and  truffle  forcemeat 
and  tie  the  lettuces  round  with  a  string;  line  a  stewpan  with  some  pieces  of  veal, 
sliced,  put  in  some  chopped  carrots,  onions  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  the  let- 
tuces. Moisten  the  latter  to  half  their  height  with  stock  and  braise.  Warm  some 
bechamel  sauce  together  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  place  the  lettuces  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over  them. 


Baked  Mushrooms  in  Cups. 


Peel  and  cut  off  the  stalks  of  a  dozen  or  more  large  flat  mushrooms,  and  chop 
them  fine.  Put  the  trimmings  in  a  stewpan  with  some  water  or  clear  gravy,  and 
boil  well.  When  nicely  flavored  strain  the  liquor,  return  it  to  the  stewpan  with  the 
mushrooms  and  a  moderate  quantity  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  season  to  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  nearly  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Beat  four  eggs  well  in  one-half  teacupful  of  cream,  and  strain.  When  the 
mushrooms  are  ready,  move  the  stewpan  away  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the  beaten 
eggs.  Butter  some  small  cups  or  moulds,  fill  each  with  the  above  mixture  and  bake 
in  a  brisk  oven.  Prepare  some  white  sauce;  when  baked  turn  the  mushrooms  out  of 
the  moulds  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round  them,  and  serve. 

Baked  Stuffed  Mushrooms. 

Choose  mushrooms  of  a  medium  size,  and  cut  out  all  the  stalks  or  stems;  wash 
these  and  chop  them  fine  ;  mince  two  shallots,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
plenty  of  butter,  and  fry;  then  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  the  minced 
stalks.  Add  a  moderate  quantity  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  season  to  taste  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  moistening  with  a  small 


460  VEGETABLES. 

quantity  of  stock.  Fill  the  hollow  part  of  each  mushroom  with  the  above  mixture ; 
butter  a  baking-dish,  lay  the  mushrooms  side  by  side  in  it,  the  open  part  uppermost, 
strew  over  plenty  of  finely-grated  breadcrumbs  and  place  them  in  a  brisk  oven  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Arrange  the  mushrooms  carefully  on  a  hot  dish,  over  which  has 
been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  with  fried  parsley, 
and  serve. 

Boiled  Mushrooms  in  Cream. 

Peel  and  trim  the  required  quantity  of  mushrooms.  Put  some  cream  in  a  pan 
over  the  fire,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste;  as  quickly  as  it  comes  to  the  boil,  have 
the  mushrooms  rubbed  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  in  the  cream,  and  boil  for 
four  minutes.  Serve  very  hot. 

Mushrooms,   Bordelaise. 

Pour  oil  on  a  baking  sheet,  sprinkle  it  with  breadcrumbs  and  minced  parsley,  then 
put  in  a  layer  of  peeled  and  cleaned  mushrooms,  then  more  oil,  parsley  and  bread- 
crumbs, next  more  mushrooms  and  finally  oil,  parsley,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Place  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven,  bake  the  mushrooms  for  thirty  minutes 
or  so,  and  serve  hot. 

Broiled  Mushrooms  on  Toast. 

Trim  off  the  stalks  of  the  required  quantity  of  large  mushrooms,  peel,  score  them 
once  across  the  top,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  and  grill  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  when 
done  on  one  side.  Cut  some  slices  of  bread,  trim  off  the  crusts  and  toast  them  nicely 
on  both  sides.  Cut  some  rounds  out  of  the  slices  of  toast  the  same  size  as  the  mush- 
rooms, butter  them  and  place  a  mushroom  on  each.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  in  each 
mushroom  and  sprinkle  over  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  a  fancy-edged  dish-paper  over 
a  hot  dis-h,  arrange  the  toasts  neatly  on  it,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Croustades   of  Mushrooms. 

Peel  and  chop  an  onion  very  fine,  place  it  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter 
and  fry  to  a  light  golden  color.  Stir  often,  add  four  or  five  ounces  of  finely-chopped 
mushrooms,  and  simmer  gently  until  they  are  about  three-fourths  done.  Put  two 
soaked  anchovies  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them,  adding  gradually  one  teaspoonful  of 
mustard  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce;  put  this  in  with  the  mushrooms  and 
boil  for  two  or  three  minutes  longer  or  until  they  are  done.  Have  prepared  some 
croustade  cases,  fill  them  up  with  the  mixture,  and  serve  at  once. 

Deviled    Mushrooms. 

Cut  off  the  stalks  even  with  the  head,  and  peel  and  trim  the  mushrooms  neatly. 
Brush  them  over  inside  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  warm  butter,  and  season  with 


VEGETABLES.  461 

salt  and  pepper,  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper.  Put  them  on  a  gridiron 
and  broil  over  a  clear  fire.  When  cooked,  put  the  mushrooms  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
serve. 

Fricassee   of  Mushrooms. 

Select  some  large  mushrooms,  peel,  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and 
broil  until  the  outsides  are  brown.  Then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  small 
quantity  of  milk,  stew  for  ten  minutes,  and  add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  each  of 
white  wine  and  browning,  thicken  with  a  liaison  of  flour  and  butter,  turn  out  the  whole 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Fried    Mushrooms   on  Toast. 

Trim  off  the  stems,  and  remove  the  skins  from  some  very  large  mushrooms,  chop 
very  fine  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter,  season  to 
taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  pounded  mace,  and  a  little  cayenne,  and  toss  them  about 
over  the  fire.  Cut  two  or  three  slices  of  bread  and  toast  them  a  delicate  brown  on 
both  sides ;  butter  while  hot,  cut  into  quarters,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  with  the 
mushrooms,  and  serve. 

Mushrooms  in    Cases. 

Peel  and  chop  some  large  mushrooms,  mix  with  them  one  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  shallot  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Butter  the  interior  of  some  small  paper  cases,  fill  them  with  the  mushroom  mixture 
and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Mushroom    Patties. 

Butter  and  line  some  small  patty-pans  with  good  paste,  fill  them  with  uncooked 
rice,  and  bake.  Trim  some  button-mushrooms,  drain,  and  chop  them;  then  put  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  toss  about  until  they  are  fried.  Thicken  one 
cupful  of  cold  water  with  a  little  flour,  pour  it  over  the  mushrooms,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  cream,  and  a  few  drops  of  broth,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a 
little  lemon  juice.  Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes.  When 
cooked,  turn  the  rice  out  of  the  patties,  and  fill  with  the  above  mixture. 

Mushroom   Pie. 

Peel  and  cut  in  quarters  some  mushrooms,  also  peel  some  potatoes;  butter  a 
pie-dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  potatoes,  then  a  layer  of  mushrooms,  another  of  potatoes, 
and  so  on  until  they  are  all  used,  seasoning  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter. 
Cover  the  pie  with  a  crust  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Put  the  trimmings  of  the 
mushrooms  in  a  small  quantity  of  gravy  and  boil  for  several  minutes,  then  strain  the 
liquid  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  pie  is  cooked  make  a  small 
incision  in  the  top  and  pour  in  the  gravy. 


462  VEGETABLES. 

Mushroom    Puree. 

Remove  the  stalks  and  skins  from  some  mushrooms,  chop,  put  in  a  pan  with 
some  milk  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Add  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll  and  stir 
till  the  moisture  has  evaporated.  Add  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  rub  through  a 
sieve. 

Mushrooms    Sauted. 

Pick  some  mushrooms  and  put  them  in  a  basin  of  water  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
or  some  vinegar.  Take  out  and  dry  on  a  cloth,  melt  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  sautepan, 
put  in  the  mushrooms,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  small  quantity  of  nutmeg; 
toss  over  the  fire  until  cooked. 


Mushrooms  Sauted,    Bordelaise  Style. 

Select  the  largest,  dryest  and  thickest  mushrooms,  pare,  wash,  dry  and  cut  into 
lozenge  shape,  place  them  in  an  earthenware  dish,  sprinkle  over  one  tablespoonful  of 
sweet  oil,  a  little  salt  and  twelve  whole  peppers,  and  leave  them  in  the  marinade  for 
two  hours.  Take  them  out,  stew  for  six  minutes;  when  done  place  on  a  dish.  Put 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  in  a  stewpan  with  one  teaspoonful  of  parsley,  anchovies, 
and  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic,  heat  for  five  minutes,  add  to  the  mushrooms,  and  serve. 


Stewed  Mushrooms. 

Peel  and  remove  the  stalks  from  some  large  mushrooms,  wash  and  cut  them  into 
halves,  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  small  lined  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  and  stir  this  over  the  fire;  then  mix  in  by  degrees  about  one  and  one-half 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  when  boiling  and  thickened  put  in  the  mushrooms. 
Season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  mace,  and  stew 
them  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  tender.  When  cooked  turn  the  mushrooms 
onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  some  croutons  of  bread  that  have  been  fried  a  nice 
brown,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Mushroom   Stems. 

Cut  into  fairly-sized  pieces  the  stems  of  mushrooms  which  have  been  used  either 
for  baking  or  broiling;  put  them  into  a  pan  over  the  fire  with  one  heaping  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  to  one  pint  of  stems,  together  with  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and 
stew  gently  until  they  are  tender.  Have  ready  a  slice  of  toast  and  serve  the  mushroom 
stems  on  it,  or  mince  and  scallop  them  with  an  equal  quantity  of  breadcrumbs,  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  brown  them  in  a  hot  oven. 


VEGETABLES.  463 

Mushrooms   Stewed   with   Cream. 

Prepare  a  pound  of  mushrooms  by  paring  off  the  ends,  then  clean  and  wash  them 
well,  and  if  very  large  cut  them  in  half.  Drain  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
three  ounces  of  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  and  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  cream,  cook  for  four  min- 
utes longer,  and  serve  in  a  hot  dish  with  eight  heart-shaped  bread  croutons  for  garnish. 

Mushrooms  Under  Glass  with  Cream. 

Cut  some  slices  of  bread  into  rounds  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 
cut  off  the  stalks  from  some  fresh  mushroom  heads,  and  range  these  on  individual 
dishes  and  cover  with  a  bell  of  either  glass  or  silver,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  twenty 
minutes. 

With  Cream:  Fry  in  butter  some  turned  mushrooms,  adding  a  little  fresh  cream 
and  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper;  cover  and  simmer  until  the  cream  becomes  par- 
tially reduced,  then  put  a  slice  of  bread,  prepared  as  above,  on  each  plate,  dress  the 
mushrooms  in  a  pyramid  form,  pour  a  portion  of  the  liquid  over  each,  put  on  the  bells 
and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  serving  them  with  the  bells  on. 


Okras  Sauted,   Creole  Style. 


Prepare  some  okras  as  for  boiled  okras.  Place  in  a  sautepan  one  ounce  of  butter, 
one  medium-sized  onion,  and  a  minced  medium-sized  green  pepper,  put  the  pan  on 
the  stove  for  six  minutes  until  the  contents  are  of  a  golden  color,  add  two  raw  peeled 
tomatoes  cut  in  pieces,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Spanish  sauce  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  a 
third  of  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  one  crushed  clove  of  garlic.  Put  in  the  okras,  cover 
with  the  lid  and  put  on  the  fire  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Turn  out  onto  a  hot 
dish,  sprinkle  over  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Baked   Onions. 

Put  six  large  onions  into  a  saucepan  of  water  or  milk  and  water  in  equal  propor- 
tions, add  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  until  tender.  When  done  so  they  can  be  easily 
mashed,  work  them  up  with  butter  into  a  paste,  cover  with  breadcrumbs  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven.  Or  if  preferred  they  may  be  boiled  whole,  put  into  a  bakingdish, 
covered  with  butter  and  breadcrumbs,  and  then  baked. 

Boiled   Onions  with  Cream. 

Peel  twelve  medium-sized  onions,  pare  the  roots  without  cutting  them,  place  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  salted  water,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  boil  for  forty-five 


464  VEGETABLES. 

minutes.  Take  them  from  the  saucepan,  place  them  on  a  dish,  cover  with  two  gills 
of  cream  sauce  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  broth  the  onions  were  cooked 
in,  garnish,  and  serve. 

Fried   Onions. 

Peel  and  slice  into  even  rounds  four  medium  sized  onions.  Place  them  first  in 
milk  and  then  in  flour,  and  fry  in  very  hot  fat  for  eight  minutes.  Remove  care- 
fully, and  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry.  Place  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  lay  them 
on,  and  serve  with  a  little  fried  parsley. 

Glazed   Onions. 

Peel  the  onions  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  warmed  butter,  add 
sugar  and  salt  to  taste,  and  pour  over  a  little  stock.  Place  over  a  moderate  fire  and 
cook  slowly  until  they  are  quite  tender  and  the  outside  brown,  remove  and  serve  on 
a  dish  A  little  of  the  liquor  thickened  with  flour  may  be  served  as  a  sauce. 

Mashed   Onions,   Brittany   Style. 

Peel  and  blanch  the  required  quantity  of  onions,  putting  them  into  cold  water  to 
cool  so  that  they  will  retain  their  color.  Drain,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  a 
little  butter,  sprinkle  slightly  with  salt  and  sugar,  place  the  pan  over  a  clear  fire  and 
fry  till  they  are  of  a  light  red  color;  pour  in  some  Spanish  sauce  and  reduce.  Pass 
the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix  in  with  it  a  little  warm  butter  and  meat  glaze,  and 
serve 

Mashed   Onions,   Soubise   Style. 

Remove  the  peel  from  one  dozen  onions,  blanch  and  drain  them,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  enough  chicken  broth  to  cover,  and  cook  slowly  until  the  onions  are 
done,  but  without  allowing  them  to  take  color.  Pour  in  one-half  pint  of  bechamel 
sauce,  reduce  it,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Stir  in  a  little  butter 
and  chicken  glaze,  and  serve. 

Steamed   Stuffed   Onions. 

Peel  eight  large  onions  and  boil  them  for  ten  minutes,  salting  slightly.  Remove 
them,  drain  quite  dry,  and  push  out  about  half  the  insides.  Chop  the  part  taken  out 
very  small,  together  with  a  little  sausage  meat,  add  one  teacupful  of  breadcrumbs,  one 
egg,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  this  mixture  into  the  cavity  of  the  onions, 
piling  it  a  little  on  the  top  and  bottom  so  that  none  shall  be  left.  Arrange  them  in  a 
deep  pan,  put  it  in  a  steamer  over  a  saucepan  of  water,  and  steam  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Put  the  pan  into  the  oven  to  brown  the  tops  of  the  onions,  adding  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  gravy  to  prevent  their  burning.  Arrange  them  tastefully  on  a  dish, 
and  serve  very  hot. 


VEGETABLES.  465 

Stewed   Onions. 

Peel  and  wash  twelve  onions  chopping  off  the  tops  and  bottoms;  cut  them  in 
halves,  mince  them  very  fine,  blanch  to  give  them  a  sweeter  taste  and  remove  the 
green  color,  place  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter,  and  cook  them.  When  quite  done 
•and  all  the  moisture  is  evaporated,  mix  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  (see 
Sauces).  Sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper,  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  keep  hot  in  a  saucepan  without  letting  them  boil.  A  small  lump  of  sugar  may 
be  added  if  desired.  If  a  highly-flavored  sauce  is  desired  the  onions  should  be  put 
in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  ham,  mace  and  bay  leaf  and  cooked  gently  for  an  hour. 

Stewed    Stuffed    Onions. 

\ 

Peel  and  blanch  some  large  onions,  drain  them  perfectly  dry,  scoop  out  the  in- 
sides  and  fill  them  with  chicken  forcemeat;  put  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  sauce- 
pan, cover  them  over  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  sugar.  Set 
the  pan  over  a  clear  fire  and  when  the  onions  are  quite  cooked  and  tender  remove 
and  arrange  them  on  a  dish.  Reduce  the  liquor  quickly  over  a  hot  fire,  pour  it  over 
the  onions,  and  serve. 

Baked    Stuffed    Spanish    Onions. 

Peel  six  medium-sized  Spanish  onions,  take  out  the  centers  with  a  vegetable 
scoop,  parboil  them  for  three  minutes  and  turn  them  upside  down  on  a  cloth  to  drain; 
when  drained  fill  the  inside  with  sausage  forcemeat.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  sautepan 
with  a  piece  of  lard  skin  and  one  carrot  and  one  onion  both  cut  up,  lay  the  onions  on 
top,  moisten  with  two  gills  of  broth,  and  cover  with  buttered  paper;  put  it  in  the  oven 
to  glaze  for  forty  minutes,  taking  care  to  baste  frequently.  Place  the  onions  on  a  hot 
dish,  strain  the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve. 

Boiled   Spanish   Onions. 

Take  the  required  number  of  Spanish  onions,  place  in  a  saucepan  of  salted  water, 
boil  for  thirty  minutes,  remove,  drain  and  put  them  into  another  saucepan  with  a 
little  butter  or  dripping;  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  cover  the  pan  to  prevent  the 
steam  escaping,  and  cook  slowly  for  about  three  hours.  They  should  be  occasionally 
basted  with  the  dripping  and  care  should  be  taken  that  they  do  not  burn  in  cooking. 

Fried    Spanish    Onions. 

Peel  and  slice  two  pounds  of  Spanish  onions,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  con- 
taining two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  made  smoking  hot,  season  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  dust  them  very  lightly  with 


466  VEGETABLES. 

cayenne  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  they  are  tender.     When  done,  serve  them  on  toast, 
pouring  over  them  the  gravy  they  yield  in  cooking. 

Boiled   Oyster-Plant. 

Scrape  a  bunch  of  tender  oyster-plant,  putting  the  roots  as  they  have  been 
scraped  in  cold  water  to  which  a  little  vinegar  has  been  added.  Gut  them  in  pieces, 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water  over  the  fire  and  boil  until  tender; 
then  drain,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  cream  enough  to  cover  them  and  a  season- 
ing of  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  serve  as  soon  as  the  cream  is  hot.  The  cream  may 
be  omitted  if  not  desired. 

Oyster- Plant,    Poulette. 

Scrape  a  good-sized  bunch  of  fine  fresh  oyster-plant,  plunge  it  at  once  into 
acidulated  water,  and  when  well  washed,  drain  and  cut  it  into  two-inch  pieces;  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  and  boil  in  plenty  of  water,  adding  a  little  salt,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  vinegar  and  the  same  quantity  of  diluted  flour.  Cook  until  tender,  remove, 
drain  well,  and  serve  with  a  pint  of  hot  poulette  sauce  poured  over  them. 

Fried   Oyster-Plant. 

Cook  a  bunch  of  oyster-plant  as  for  Oyster-Plant,  Poulette,  and  when  done,  put 
in  a  dish;  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  dip  them  well 
in  frying  butter,  and  fry  in  very  hot  fat  for  five  minutes,  separating  the  pieces  with 
a  spoon.  Lift  them  up  with  a  skimmer,  drain  on  a  cloth,  sprinkle  over  them  a  very 
little  salt,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin,  decorating  with  a  little  fried  parsley. 

Oyster-Plant    Sauted. 

Scrape  a  large  bunch  of  fine  oyster  plant,  plunge  it  into  cold  water  containing 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  so  as  to  prevent  it  turning  black,  take  it  from  the  water, 
drain  and  cut  it  lengthwise  into  two-inch  pieces.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  each  of  vinegar  and  flour,  mix  well,  cover  with  plenty  of  cold  water, 
add  a  handful  of  salt,  cover  and  let  boil  slowly  for  forty  minutes.  Then  drain,  put 
them  into  a  sautepan  with  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  butter,  and  season  with  a  little 
pepper,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Heat 
well  for  five  minutes,  stirring  occasionally,  then  place  them  in  a  deep  hot  dish  and 
serve. 

Baked  Parsnips. 

Peel  and  wash  some  large,  hollow-crowned  parsnips,  cut  them  lengthwise  into 
quarters,  and  steam  them  for  one  hour.  Take  them  out  and  place  in  a  baking-dish 
with  a  little  salt  and  meat  drippings,  and  bake  till  nicely  browned.  Drain,  put  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES.  467 

Boiled  Parsnips. 

Rub  and  wash  some  parsnips  well,  but  do  not  scrape  them,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  boiling  salted  water  and  boil  until  tender,  which  will  take  from  one  hour  to 
one  hour  and  a  half,  according  to  their  size.  When  done  rub  their  skins  off  with  a 
rough  cloth,  put  them  in  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  butter  sauce,  seasoned  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt  poured  over  them. 

Broiled   Parsnips. 

Broil  some  parsnips,  drain  them  dry  on  a  clean  towel,  split  them  into  slices  one- 
half  inch  thick,  dip  them  in  melted  butter  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  them 
between  the  bars  of  a  double  wire  gridiron,  broil  them  brown  over  a  hot  fire,  and  serve 
immediately. 

Fried    Parsnips. 

Peel  and  wash  some  parsnips,  put  them  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  till 
tender.  Drain  and  cut  the  parsnips  in  thin  slices  lengthwise,  and  leave  them  till  cool 
with  a  little  salt  sprinkled  over  them.  Put  a  breakfast  cupful  of  molasses  in  a  large 
fryingpan,  place  it  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil;  then  put  in  the  slices  of  parsnips  and 
fry  them;  when  browned  on  one  side  turn  them  and  brown  the  other.  Arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Parsnip    Fritters. 

Peel  and  boil  some  parsnips  until  tender,  then  drain  them  thoroughly,  mash 
them  smoothly,  mixing  in  with  them  two  beaten  eggs,  salt  to  taste,  and  sufficient 
flour  to  bind  them  stiffly.  Divide  and  mould  the  mixture  into  small  round  cakes  with 
floured  hands.  Put  a  large  piece  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire  and  let 
it  boil,  then  put  in  the  cakes,  and  fry  them  a  light  golden  brown.  Drain,  pile  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  or  an  ornamental  dish- 
paper,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Mashed    Parsnips. 

Wash  and  scrape  some  parsnips,  cut  them  in  pieces  lengthwise,  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  boiling  water,  a  little  salt,  and  a  small  lump  of  dripping,  and  boil  till 
quite  tender;  remove,  and  place  them  on  a  colander,  drain,  and  press  all  the  water  out 
of  them.  Mash  them  till  quite  smooth  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  milk  or  a  small  lump  of  butter,  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
and  stir  over  the  fire  till  thoroughly  hot  again.  Turn  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

Potatoes  and  Onions    Sauted. 

Take  an  equal  amount  of  small  new  potatoes  and  onions  of  equal  size,  peel  them 
and  place  them  in  a  sautepan,  with  a  good  sized  lump  of  butter,  tossing  them  over 


468  VEGETABLES. 

the  fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  being  careful  they  do  not  burn ;  put  in  water  to 
about  half  the  height  of  the  vegetables,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  place  the  lid 
over  the  pan,  and  stew  gently  for  half  an  hour ;  then  squeeze  in  a  little  lemon  juice, 
turn  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Potatoes  and   Parsley. 


Place  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  some  well  washed  and  peeled  small  potatoes, 
boil  for  five  minutes  and  then  strain  off  the  water,  and  pour  in  enough  fresh  boiling 
watrr  to  height  of  potatoes,  add  a  lump  of  butter  and  a  little  salt  and  boil  them  until 
they  become  quite  tender;  then  remove  them  carefully  and  put  them  in  a  deep  dish, 
keeping  them  near  the  fire.  Place  in  the  liquor  in  which  the  potatoes  were  boiled  a 
moderate  quantity  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  boil  for  a  few  minutes  and  until  some- 
what thickly  reduced ;  then  pour  the  sauce  over  the  potatoes,  and  serve. 

Baked    Potatoes. 

Place  a  pound  or  two  of  potatoes  as  nearly  an  equal  size  as  possible  in  a  bowl 
of  water  and  scrub  them  thoroughly,  then  take  them  out  and  wipe  them  dry  with  a 
cloth,  place  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  for  an  hour,  when  they  should  be  quite  soft 
and  mealy ;  fold  them  in  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve  with  butter  and 
seasoning. 

Baked    Potatoes   with   Breadcrumbs. 

Peel,  boil  and  mash  a  pound  or  so  of  potatoes  passing  them  through  a  sieve ; 
then  pile  them  upon  a  dish  in  the  form  of  a  small  cone,  sprinkle  over  them  some 
breadcrumbs,  and  pour  over  a  little  warmed  butter ;  put  the  dish  in  the  oven  and 
allow  it  to  remain  ther.e  for  a  few  minutes  until  the  breadcrumbs  have  become  well- 
browned,  remove,  and  serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are  baked. 

Potato    Balls. 

Mash  thoroughly  a  pound  of  boiled  potatoes  and  rub  them  through  a  wire  sieve 
and  mix  in  with  them  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  ham,  a  little  chopped  parsley 
and  a  small  onion  chopped  very  fine,  together  with  a  small  quantity  of  nutmeg, 
grated,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Roll  this  mixture  into  balls  of  equal  size, 
flour  and  egg-breadcrumb  them,  then  fry  in  dripping  or  brown  them  in  the  oven, 

serving  them  on  a  hot  dish. 

i 

Potatoes,   Barigoule. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  broth  to  cover  them  ten  peeled  and  washed 
potatoes  and  boil  them  gently  until  they  become  quite  tender,  then  drain,  taking  care 
not  to  break  them.  Next  put  a  teacupful  of  olive  oil  into  a  deep  fryingpan,  and 


VEGETABLES.  469 

place  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  put  in  the  potatoes,  tossing  them  gently  until 
they  are  lightly  browned  all  over.  Place  them  on  a  dish  and  sprinkle  salt  and 
pepper,  and  vinegar  all  over  them,  serving  them  hot. 

Boiled    Potatoes. 

Select  a  dozen  medium-sized  potatoes  and  wash  them  well,  peel  off  a  piece  of 
skin  half  an  inch  wide  around  each  potato  to  insure  mealiness,  and  place  them  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water,  adding  half  a  handful  of  salt;  put  on  the  lid  and 
cook  for  thirty  minutes,  then  drain  and  lay  them  on  a  napkin  on  a  hot  hish,  and  serve. 

Boiled   New    Potatoes. 

Place  in  a  bowl  of  water  a  pound  or  so  of  new  potatoes,  scrape  off  the  thin  skins 
and  wash  them  well,  and  drop  them  as  they  are  skinned  and  washed  into  another 
bowl  of  water,  letting  them  remain  there  for  an  hour  or  so.  After  they  have  been  in 
the  water  the  requisite  time  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  cold  water  to 
cover  them,  set  the  pan  over  the  fire  and  boil  them  gently  from  a  quarter  to  half  an 
hour;  then  drain  off  the  water  and  let  them  drain  in  the  saucepan  for  a  few  minutes, 
after  which  turn  them  into  a  vegetable  dish,  fold  them  in  a  napkin,  and  serve. 

Potato   Borders. 

These  are  generally  used  to  form  walls  for  holding  different  kinds  of  thick  stews, 
hashes,  minces,  etc.  The  potatoes  should  first  be  boiled  and  then  mashed  either 
with  or  without  butter  and  beaten  eggs.  If  a  mould  is  used  it  should  be  well 
buttered  and  the  potatoes  worked  up  thoroughly  into  a  well-seasoned  paste,  with  two 
eggs  to  each  pound  of  potatoes;  then  press  the  paste  firmly  into  the  moulds  and 
level  off  the  top  with  a  knife,  set  in  a  quick  oven  for  half  an  hour  or  only  a  few 
minutes,  according  to  whether  the  potato  border  is  desired  to  be  browned  or  not. 
Then  turn  onto  a  dish. 

Broiled   Potatoes. 

Peel  half  a  dozen  medium-sized  cooked  potatoes,  halve  them  and  lay  upon  a 
dish,  seasoning  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  then  pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  and  roll  them  thoroughly  in  it,  after  which  arrange  them  on  a  double  broiler 
and  broil  over  a  moderate  fire  for  three  minutes  on  each  side.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish 
with  a  folded  napkin. 

Browned  Potatoes. 

Peel,  wash  and  either  boil  or  steam  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour  the  desired 
quantity  of  potatoes  (they  should  always  be  boiled  or  partially  boiled  before  brown- 
ing), then  take  them  out  of  the  saucepan,  drain  and  place  them  in  a  baking-dish  with 


470  VEGETABLES. 

a  small  quantity  of  fat  or  dripping,  set  the  dish  in  the  oven  and  bake  gently  for  forty 
minutes,  basting  frequently.  When  done  and  well  browned  drain  off  all  the  fat,  place 
them  in  a  vegetable  dish,  and  serve. 

Potato    Cake. 

Mash  some  cold  boiled  potatoes,  dredge  over  lightly  with  flour  and  season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  a  little  yeast;  then  mix  the  potatoes  with  a  little  cold 
milk  into  a  not  too  thin  paste  and  roll  out  to  a  round  shape  about  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness. Take  a  fryingpan  which  will  hold  the  cake  nicely,  place  a  lump  of  butter  in  it 
to  melt,  then  put  in  the  cake,  covering  it  with  a  plate,  and  cook  over  a  good  fire. 
When  one  side  of  the  cake  is  done  turn  it  carefully  over,  adding  a  little  butter,  if 
necessary,  and  cook  on  the  other  side;  drain  the  cake  well  and  lay  it  on  a  fancy  dish- 
paper  or  folded  napkin,  spread  over  a  heated  dish,  garnishing  it  with  fried  parsley, 
and  serve. 

Casserole  of  Potatoes. 

Boil  a  pound  or  two  of  potatoes  and  when  well  done  take  them  out  and 
mash  and  make  this  into  a  stiff  paste  by  adding  a  little  butter  and  cream,  to- 
gether with  a  slight  sprinkling  of  salt,  and  form  it  into  a  casserole;  put  it  on  a 
dish,  make  an  opening  in  the  center,  brown  it  over  in  the  oven,  and  serve. 

Potato    Cheese    Cakes. 

Peel  and  thoroughly  wash  enough  potatoes  to  weigh  about  six  ounces  when 
boiled,  and  mash  them  well  In  the  meantime,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lemon- 
peel  into  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  until  quite  tender;  remove  it  and  drain  and 
place  in  a  mortar  with,  four  ounces  of  finely-crushed  loaf  sugar  and  pound  thoroughly. 
Place  this  mixture  in  a  basin  containing  the  mashed  potatoes  and  stir  them  well  to- 
gether, adding  four  ounces  of  warmed  butter  and  a  little  hot  cream.  Then  have  in 
readiness  some  small  pattypans  lined  with  a  good  puff  paste  and  fill  them  a  trifle 
more  than  half  with  the  potato  pulp,  sprinkle  over  them  a  little  powdered  sugar, 
place  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  bake  for  thirty  minutes.  Take  them  out,  turn  the 
cheese  cakes  out  of  the  pan  and  let  them  get  cold,  then  serve. 

Chip    Potatoes. 

Wash  and  peel  a  dozen  or  so  of  rather  small  potatoes  and  divide  them  into 
pieces  resembling  a  section  of  an  orange  and  place  them  in  a  basin  of  water;  then 
remove,  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  melted  fat  to  a  trifle  more 
than  half  their  height  and  allow  them  to  fry  until  they  are  partly  done  and  com- 
mence to  float;  then  skim  out  the  potatoes  and  set  the  pan  over  a  fiercer  fire,  and 
when  the  fat  becomes  smoking  hot,  again  place  the  potatoes  in  it  and  fry  until  the 


VEGETABLES.  471 

pieces  blow  themselves  out  and  are  quite   brown;  then  take  them   out,    drain  off  all 
the  liquor,  dust  over  with  salt,  and  serve  in  a  vegetable  dish, 

Creamed    Potatoes. 

Cut  into  cubes  or  dice  about  half  a  pound  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  and  place 
them  in  a  shallow  bakingpan,  pouring  over  them  sufficient  milk  or  cream  to  cover 
them,  put  the  pan  in  the  oven  or  on  the  side  of  the  fire  and  cook  gently  until  nearly 
all  the  milk  is  absorbed;  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  a  teaspoonful  each  of 
finely-chopped  parsley  and  salt  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper  mixed  well  to- 
gether. When  they  have  become  thoroughly  warmed,  turn  them  into  a  dish,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Potato   Croquettes. 

Take  four  mealy  boiled  potatoes  of  good  size  and  add  to  them  half  their  weight 
of  butter,  the  same  quantity  of  powdered  white  sugar,  and  place  them  in  a  mortar, 
pounding  them  well  together  with  a  little  salt,  the  grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon  and 
two  beaten  eggs.  Then  beat  up  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  roll  up  the  paste  in  the  mor- 
tar into  cork-shaped  pieces,  and  dip  them  into  the  beaten  yolk,  rolling  them  in  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour,  then  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  or  brush 
it  over  them,  and  roll  once  again  in  the  breadcrumbs.  Fry  in  boiling  lard  or  butter, 
after  which  lay  them  on  paper  to  drain,  and  arrange  them  on  ornamental  paper,  spread 
over  a  dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Potato    Croustade. 

Place  a  pound  of  boiled  potato  pulp  in  a  bowl,  mash  it  very  smooth  and  per- 
fectly dry;  add  the  yolks  of  a  couple  of  eggs  and  set  the  bowl  over  the  fire,  stirring  it 
until  it  again  becomes  dry.  Form  it  into  a  case  or  shell  and  brush  it  over  with  the 
yolk  of  egg,  place  in  an  oven  and  bake  to  a  light  brown;  then  remove  and  it  is  ready 
for  use.  In  the  meantime  pour  one  gill  of  white  sauce  into  a  saucepan  and  mix  in 
with  it  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  with  half  that  quantity  of  essence  of  anchovies, 
and  the  meat  of  a  lobster,  or  half  a  can  of  lobster;  set  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire 
and  heat  well  without  letting  it  boil.  Pour  this  sauce,  which  should  be  thick,  into 
the  potato  case,  and  serve. 

Curried    Potatoes. 

Cut  into  slices  a  pound  or  two  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  peel  and  slice  a  couple  of 
onions,  and  place  the  onions  in  a  stewpan  with  a  good-sized  lump  of  fat  and  fry  them 
until  they  begin  to  brown,  then  place  the  potatoes  in  with  and  dust  over  with  a 
couple  of  spoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper;  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  moisten  with  a  small  quantity  of  clear  stock,  and  toss 
over  the  fire  for  seven  or  eight  minutes;  turn  the  curry  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


472  VEGETABLES. 

Potatoes,    Duchess. 

Select  some  nice  mealy  potatoes  and  beat  them  to  a  flour  with  a  fork,  not  pound- 
ing them,  but  whipping  them  lightly  while  they  are  hot;  have  ready  a  couple  of  eggs 
well  beaten,  the  whites  and  yolks  separately,  the  whites  being  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth; 
beat  in  the  yolks  lightly  to  the  mashed  potatoes,  together  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  whip  all  together  until 
creamy,  and  then  lightly  and  quickly  whip  in  the  frothed  whites.  Place  this  mixture 
in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  stir  well  together  until  thoroughly  hot. 

Potatoes   for    Entrees. 

Remove  all  of  the  inside  from  half  a  dozen  baked  potatoes,  work  in  with  it  a  little 
butter,  salt  and  breadcrumbs  and  chopped  parsley;  beat  well  with  a  fork  and  work  in 
one  egg;  then  boil  some  oyster-plant  until  it  is  tender,  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve, 
mix  it  with  a  little  cream,  and  season  to  taste.  Half  fill  some  well-buttered  eggcups 
with  the  potato  mixture,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  the  oyster-plant  cream  over  and  fill  up 
with  more  of  the  potato  mixture,  after  which  turn  them  out,  brush  them  over  with  egg, 
dust  with  breadcrumbs  and  plunge  them  into  a  pan  of  boiling  fat  and  fry.  Take  them 
out,  drain  and  serve  while  hot  with  a  cream  sauce  poured  around  or  separately  in  a 
sauceboat. 

Fried   Potatoes. 

Peel  and  wash  well  a  half  dozen  good-sized  potatoes  and  slice  them  to  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  place  them  in  hot  clarified  beef-suet  or  fat  and  cook  slowly. 
When  they  become  quite  soft  turn  them  out  onto  a  skimmer;  ten  minutes  is  usually 
sufficient  time.  Then  the  fat  should  be  heated  again  to  the  boiling  point,  put  in  the 
potatoes  once  more  and  smooth  them  down  with  the  skimmer;  after  the  lapse  of  a 
couple  of  minutes  they  will  swell  up  considerably;  then  lift  them  out,  drain  and  sprin- 
kle over  a  pinch  of  salt.  Serve  on  a  heated  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Gastronomical    Potatoes. 

Cut  with  a  tube-cutter  twelve  medium-sized  potatoes  which  have  been  peeled  and 
well-washed  into  pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  and 
cover  with  water,  adding  a  pinch  of  salt  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes;  then  drain 
them  and  place  on  a  hot  dish,  pouring  over  a  gill  of  hot  perigueux  sauce,  and  serve. 


Potatoes,   Genevoise   Style. 


Cut  into  shreds  four  medium-sized  potatoes  after  they  have  been  peeled,  washed 
and  thoroughly  drained;  then  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  half  a  pinch  of  pepper. 
Butter  lightly  half  a  dozen  tartlet  moulds  with  clarified  butter,  cover  the  bottoms  with 


VEGETABLES.  473 

grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  arrange  a  layer  of  potatoes  on  top,  sprinkle  more  of  the 
cheese  over  them,  and  continue  on  in  this  manner  until  the  moulds  are  filled,  and 
drop  a  little  clarified  butter  over  all.  Place  them  in  a  very  hot  stove  for  a  few  min- 
utes and  then  put  them  into  a  hot  oven  and  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes,  after  which 
turn  then  out,  place  on  a  hot  dish  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Glazed   Potatoes. 

Take  a  pound  or  so  of  good  potatoes,  boil  and  skin  them  and  roll  them  in  the 
yolk  of  egg;  then  brown  them  in  the  oven,  and  serve  hot. 

Potatoes  in    Cases. 

Wash  thoroughly  eight  or  nine  potatoes  (good-sized  ones  and  mealy),  and  place 
them  in  a  quick  oven  to  bake;  then  take  them  out  and  cut  off  a  round  of  the  peel 
the  size  of  a  fifty-cent  piece  from  the  end  of  them  and  carefully  scoop  out  all  the  in- 
side pulp;  mash  this  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  saucepan,  mixing  in  a 
breakfast  cupful  of  cream  and  milk  in  equal  proportions  and  a  ounce  and  a  half  of 
warmed  butter;  place  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire  and  boil  gently,  adding  a  little  at  a  time 
the  whites  of  a  couple  of  eggs  whipped  to  a  froth.  Fill  up  the  potato  skins  with 
this  preparation  and  put  them  in  the  oven  until  they  have  become  thoroughly  warmed, 
then  place  them  in  paper  cases,  arranged  on  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Potatoes  in   the   Oven. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  some  well-washed  potatoes,  with  their  skins  on,  together 
with  enough  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  well ;  then  peel  and  mash  them ;  spread 
a  layer  of  the  potatoes  in  a  baking-dish,  grate  some  Parmesan  cheese  over,  and  add 
a  few  lumps  of  butter ;  use  up  the  remaining  quantity  of  potatoes  in  the  same  man- 
ner, finish  with  a  layer  of  the  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  butter ;  brown  in  the  oven, 
and  serve  while  hot. 


Potatoes,    Julienne   Style. 


Some  peeled  potatoes  of  medium-size  should  be  cut  into  slices  crosswise  with  a 
fluted  vegetable  knife,  then  fried  in  plenty  of  smoking  hot  fat,  serving  them  while  hot. 

Potatoes,    Loulou. 

Chop  fine,  wash  well  and  wipe  on  a  cloth  some  raw  potatoes,  and  place  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  some  butter,  season  and  cook  them  very  slowly  while  covered, 
tossing  them  frequently,  and  when  they  become  soft,  beat  them  up  and  dress  in  layers 
in  a  vegetable  dish,  strewing  over  them  a  little  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  pour  over 
them  some  melted  butter,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  slack  oven. 


474  VEGETABLES. 

Potatoes,   Lyonnese. 

Cut  into  round  slices  eight  boiled  potatoes,  and  lay  them  into  a  fryingpan  with 
an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  and  the  round  slices  of  a  fried  onion,  seasoning  with  a 
pinch  each  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  for  six  minutes,  until  they  become  well  browned, 
tossing  them  all  the  while,  and  serve  with  a  small  quantity  of  chopped  parsley 
sprinkled  over. 

Potatoes   Maitre   d' Hotel. 

Peel  and  boil  some  carefully  selected  potatoes,  taking  care  not  to  boil  too  long; 
then  drain  them  and  let  them  become  cold,  after  which  they  are  to  be  cut  into  rather 
thick  slices.  Place  in  a  flat  stewpan  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter  and  dredge  in  a 
half  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  until  well  dissolved  and  melted;  then  mix  in  gradu- 
ally a  breakfast  cupful  of  broth  and  stir  continually  until  boiling;  then  place  the  pota- 
toes in  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  the  taste. 
Stew  them  for  two  or  three  minutes,  move  the  pan  to  the  edge  of  the  fire  and  stir  in 
quickly  the  yolk  of  an  egg  previously  well  beaten  with  a  teaspoonful  of  cold  water 
and  a  very  small  amount  of  strained  lemon  juice.  When  the  egg  has  become  thick- 
ened turn  the  potatoes  together  with  their  sauce  on  to  a  flat  dish,  and  serve. 

Mashed    Potatoes. 

Peel  and  wash  the  potatoes  and  put  them  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water  and  let  them 
soak  there  for  an  hour  or  so  and  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  enough  salted 
water  to  cover  and  boil  gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  they  are  done 
drain  off  all  the  water  and  put  the  potatoes  into  a  large  mortar  or  bowl  and  pound 
them  well.  To  each  pound  of  pulp  add  two  ounces  of  butter  to  a  teacupful  of  milk 
in  a  saucepan  and  warm  it  over  the  fire,  then  stir  in  the  mashed  potatoes,  using  care 
not  to  get  them  too  wet;  place  the  potatoes  after  they  have  been  well  mashed  into  a 
vegetable  dish,  mark  it  over  with  a  fork  and  brown  it  in  the  oven  or  with  a  salaman- 
der, and  serve. 

Potato    Nests. 

Wash  well  and  then  bake  in  an  oven  some  carefully  selected  potatoes  of  equal 
size  and  when  tender  cut  a  slice  off  the  top  of  each  and  carefully  scoop  out  some  of 
the  interior.  Rub  through  a  fine  sieve  the  potato  which  has  been  scooped  out  and 
mix  with  it  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  cream,  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Put  the  whole  in  a  stewpan  and  stir  it  well  over  a  fire;  when  it  has  become  hot 
move  it  to  one  side  and  stir  in  the  beaten  whites  of  one  or  two  eggs;  fill  the  potato 
skins  with  this  preparation  and  brush  them  over  with  a  brush  dipped  in  warmed 
butter.  Serve  on  a  folded  napkin  placed  on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 


VEGETABLES.  475 

Potatoes   Provincial. 

Trim  into  the  shape  of  corks  some  raw  potatoes,  and  cut  them  across  into  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  wipe  them  perfectly  dry.  Then  saute  slowly 
in  oil,  and  allow  plenty  of  time  for  cooking;  after  which,  add  a  little  garlic  and  onion 
chopped  very  fine,  salt  and  finish  them  in  the  oven  just  previous  to  serving,  and  drain 
off  the  butter  and  sprinkle  over  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice. 

Potato   Quenelles. 

Mash  one  pound  of  dry  floury  potatoes  while  they  are  still  hot,  mix  with  them 
two  ounces  of  butter,  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  black  pepper,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  a  small  quantity  of  finely-minced  ham,  and  the  beaten 
yolks  of  four  eggs;  when  well  mixed,  beat  in  the  thoroughly  whisked  whites  of  four 
eggs,  and  shape  the  preparation  into  quenelles,  with  two  teaspoons,  then  drop  them 
into  boiling  butter,  and  fry  for  five  minutes.  Drain  them  on  paper,  and  serve  on  a 
napkin  quite  hot. 

Potato    Rissoles. 

Mash  the  desired  quantity  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  one 
or  two  well-beaten  eggs,  seasoning  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper;  mould  the  mixture 
into  small  egg-shaped  balls,  and  roll  them  in  grated  breadcrumb,  then  in  beaten  egg, 
and  in  the  breadcrumb  again.  Next  place  a  large  lump  of  good  beef-dripping  in  a 
flat  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  remain  there  until  the  blue  smoke  rises,  then  put  in 
the  rissoles,  and  fry  them  until  they  become  of  a  bright  golden  brown  on  all  sides; 
after  which,  drain  them  for  a  few  minutes  on  a  sheet  of  kitchen-paper  in  front  of  the 
fire,  and  then  pile  them  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin 
or  ornamental  dish-paper;  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Potatoes,  Sarah. 

Cut  some  raw  potatoes  with  a  sharp  knife  into  the  form  of  corkscrews  and  fry 
till  half  done  in  not  too  hot  fat,  then  drain  and  place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  some 
clarified  butter  and  finish  the  cooking.  Season  with  salt  and  chopped  parsley  and 
lemon  juice. 

Sauted    Potato. 

Cut  up  into  slices  eight  medium-sized  cold  boiled  potatoes,  place  an  ounce  and 
a  half  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan  and  add  the  potatoes,  seasoning  with  half  a  pinch  of 
salt  and  pepper,  and  toss  them  well  in  the  pan  for  a  couple  of  minutes,  after  which 
form  them  into  the  shape  of  an  omelet  and  allow  them  to  become  of  a  golden  color, 
which  will  require  about  five  minutes'  time.  With  a  spoon  take  up  all  the  butter 
lying  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  slide  the  potatoes  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


476  VEGETABLES. 

Stewed   Potatoes. 

Place  half  a  pound  of  raw  potatoes  cut  into  small  pieces  in  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire,  together  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  medium-sized  onion  peeled  and  chopped, 
a  teaspoonful  of  common  salt  and  celery  salt  mixed,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped 
parsley  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water;  simmer  gently  until  the  potatoes  are  soft, 
then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  blended  smooth  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar;  stir  thoroughly  for  ten  minutes  or  till  boiling. 

Potato   Straws. 

Wash  a  pint  of  potatoes,  peeling  them  very  thin,  siice  to  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness  and  place  them  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  until  they  are  tender, 
say  about  ten  minutes  or  so.  Turn  them  into  a  colander  with  good-sized  holes  and 
let  the  water  drain  off  until  the  potatoes  have  become  quite  dry,  sprinkle  over  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  hold  the  colander  over  one 
end  of  a  large  dish  as  the  potatoes  are  pressed  through  it,  so  that  the  potatoes  may 
fall  in  rows,  moving  the  colander  from  one  side  to  the  other.  Wipe  the  edges  of  the 
dish  with  a  clean  towel,  set  it  in  the  oven  for  two  or  three  minutes  to  heat  the  pota- 
toes thoroughly,  and  serve. 

Surprise    Potatoes. 

Bone  a  dozen  small  birds  and  stuff  them  with  sausage  meat;  then  select  twelve 
large  potatees  of  equal  size,  wash  them  well,  leaving  the  skins*  on,  cut  a  piece  off  the 
top  of  each  potato  and  scoop  out  the  inside.  Put  a  bird  in  each  potato.  Then  make 
a  stiff  paste  of  flour  and  white  of  egg  and  use  it  to  stick  on  the  tops  of  the  potatoes; 
lay  them  on  a  baking-tin  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  for  about  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish  previously  covered  with  a  dish-paper  or  folded 
napkin,  and  serve. 

Potatoes  Waldorf. 

Peel  and  wash  some  potatoes  and  then  cut  them  round  and  round  in  curls  in  the 
same  manner  in  which  apples  are  peeled;  place  two  flat  stewpans  over  the  fire  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  lard  in  each;  when  boiling  throw  in  the  pieces  in  one  of  the 
pans  and  fry  until  just  commencing  to  color,  then  remove  quickly  with  a  drainer  and 
throw  into  the  second  pan  of  boiling  lard;  when  they  have  become  nicely  browned 
and  soft  take  the  potatoes  out  of  the  fat,  drain  them  for  a  minute  or  two  on  kitchen 
paper  at  the  front  of  the  fire;  spread  a  folded  napkin  over  a  hot  dish,  pile  on  the 
potatoes,  dredging  a  small  quantity  of  salt  over  them,  and  serve  while  hot. 

Broiled  Sweet   Potatoes. 

Take  some  peeled  sweet  potatoes  which  have  been  steam-boiled  and  slice 
them  three-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  trim  them  to  olive-shaped  pieces  and  place  them 


VEGETABLES.  477 

in  a  double  broiler,  salt  them  well  and  coat  with  some  melted  butter,  then  broil  them 
over  a  slow  fire.     When  done,  serve  inside  a  folded  napkin. 

Roasted   Sweet   Potatoes. 

After  washing  them  thoroughly  cut  off  both  ends,  pare  them  into  olive-shaped 
pieces,  put  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  bakingpan  and  put  the  potatoes  in  with  it  and  roast 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  half  an  hour.  Serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Sweet   Potatoes   Souffled. 

Slice  some  sweet  potatoes  to  quarter-inch  widths  and  fry  them  slowly  in  white 
fat  in  order  that  they  may  cook  without  coloring  or  stiffening.  Drain  them  well  for 
ten  minutes  and  then  return  to  the  hot  fat,  when  they  should  puff  up  considerably. 

Sweet   Potato   Waffles. 

Mix  to  a  smooth  batter  half  a  breakfast  cupful  of  sweet  potatoes  well  boiled 
and  mashed,  together  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one  each  of  butter  and 
sugar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  pint  of  milk.  Bake  the  batter  immediately  in  a 
hot  waffle-iron,  or,  if  desired,  they  may  be  baked  on  a  griddle  in  the  form  of  cakes. 

Pumpkin    Fritters. 

Trim  off  both  the  ends  of  some  long,  but  not  too  large  oval  pumpkins,  cut 
them  into  long  square  fingers,  place  them  in  a  dish,  sprinkle  salt  over  them  and 
leave  them  for  ten  minutes;  shake  the  dish  once  or  twice  during  the  time.  Drain  the 
pieces,  wipe  them  on  a  cloth  and  rub  them  over  quickly  with  flour.  Put  some  drip- 
ping in  a  fryingpan,  and  when  hot  put  in  the  pieces  and  fry  them.  When  cooked, 
drain  and  dust  over  with  salt.  Serve  them  in  a  hot  dish. 

Mashed   Pumpkin. 

Pare  off  the  rind  of  a  large  slice  of  pumpkin,  remove  the  seeds  and  cut  it  into 
squares;  place  the  pieces  of  pumpkin  in  a  stewpan  with  a  large  lump  of  butter  and 
a  small  quantity  of  water,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt  and  stew  over  a  gentle 
fire  until  quite  soft.  Mash  the  pumpkin  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  pass  it  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
mix  it  over  the  fire,  and  then  stir  in  the  pumpkin  pulp,  moistening  with  a  little  milk 
and  seasoning  with  grated  nutmeg.  Stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  then 
pile  it  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and 
serve. 

Stewed    Pumpkin. 

Peel  and  remove  the  seeds  from  a  pumpkin,  and  partially  boil  it,  drain  it  well, 
wipe-  on  a  cloth,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put  about  three  ounces  of  butter  into 


478  VEGETABLES. 

a  stewpan  to  melt  and  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  pumpkin;  season  to  taste  with  pepper, 
salt  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  quite  soft.  Butter  a 
dish  that  will  stand  the  heat  of  the  oven,  and  at  the  same  time  can  be  served  on  the 
table;  turn  the  pumpkin  mixture  on  to  it,  sprinkle  over  it  plenty  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  and  a  few  grated  breadcrumbs,  and  stand  the  dish  in  a  brisk  oven  for  ten 
minutes,  or  until  browned  over  the  top.  Serve  in  the  same  dish  the  pumpkins  while  hot. 

Lean    Sorrel. 

Remove  the  stems  from  four  pints  of  sorrel,  wash  it  well  in  several  waters,  drain 
and  chop  it  up  with  a  well-cleaned  head  of  lettuce;  then  add  half  a  bunch  of  chervil 
and  chop  all  together  very  finely.  Place  all  in  a  stewpan,  stir  well  on  a  hot  stove  for 
three  or  four  minutes,  and  set  in  the  oven  until  the  vegetables  are  tender;  then  add 
one  and  one-half  ounce  of  butter  and  stir  again  for  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  the 
sorrel  is  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper,  pour 
into  it  a  thickening  of  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  cream, 
stir  well  without  boiling,  and  serve. 

Puree   of  Sorrel   with   Hard-Boiled   Eggs. 

Wash  well  and  boil  the  sorrel,  changing  the  water  twice  during  the  operation. 
When  cooked  drain  the  sorrel  and  chop  it,  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a 
saucepan,  mix  with  it  a  little  milk  and  flour,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
let  it  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  twenty  minutes.  Mix  a  lump  of  butter  with 
the  sorrel,  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Sorrel. 

Place  some  sorrel  that  has  been  washed  in  several  waters  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
lump  of  butter,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  has  melted.  Drain  the  sorrel,  chop 
it  fine  with  some  trimmings  of  mushrooms,  put  the  mixture  into  a  stewpan  with  some 
small  pieces  of  ham  and  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  it.  Next  mix  in  one  teacupful  of 
Spanish  sauce,  and  allow  it  to  stew  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  an  hour.  Pass 
the  puree  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  pour  it  into  the  saucepan  again  with  a  little 
stock  broth,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  glaze. 

Sourcrout.      (Fr.    Choucroute;    Ger.   Sauerkraut). 

This  is  a  variety  of  pickled  cabbage  dear  to  many  of  our  traveling  classes. 
Sourcrout  has  been  pronounced  very  wholesome  by  experienced  chemists.  It  may 
be  made  and  prepared  for  the  table  in  several  ways.  The  following  are  among  the 
best  methods  of  preparation: 

(i.)  Shred  fine  some  white-hearted  cabbages,  put  them  in  a  jar,  and  sprinkle 
over  them  one  handful  of  salt,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  a  little 


VEGETABLES.  479 

water.  Put  some  of  the  big  outside  leaves  of  the  cabbage  on  the  top,  place  a 
cover  on  the  jar  with  a  weight  on  it,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  temperature.  In  a  week 
or  two  the  sourcrout  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Boiled   Sourcrout. 

To  prepare  the  sourcrout  for  boiling  soak  it  in  plenty  of  cold  water  until  it  is  only 
palatably  salty,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  or  in  the  same  pot 
in  which  bacon,  pickled  pork,  or  smoked  sausages  are  boiling,  and  boil  until  it  is  ten- 
der. To  serve  the  sourcrout  drain  it,  put  it  on  a  dish,  lay  the  meat  on  it,  and  serve 
them  together.  When  it  is  cooked  without  meat  it  is  simply  served  as  a  vegetable. 
When  cold  it  may  be  chopped  and  fried  in  butter,  or  heated  in  white  sauce  or  some 
gravy. 

Sourcrout  with   Apples. 

Shred  fine  some  white-hearted  cabbages,  peel  about  half  the  quantity  of  apples 
and  slice  them  thin.  Rub  the  inside  of  a  saucepan  over  with  butter.  Put  at  the 
bottom  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  then  a  layer  of  the  cabbage,  a  small  piece  of  butter,  four 
or  five  slices  of  lemon,  a  little  ground  mace  and  pepper,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  then  the  apples,  some  slices  of  ham  and  more  cabbage  in  alternate  layers. 
When  the  stewpan  is  full  place  a  layer  of  veal  fat  on  the  top  and  bake  all  in  a  moder^ 
ate  oven  for  three  hours.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Sourcrout  with    Goose,   Roumanian. 

Draw  and  wash  a  fat  goose  and  season  the  interior  of  it  with  pepper  and  salt  and 
any  other  kind  of  seasoning  desired.  Cut  one  or  two  cabbages  into  very  thin  shreds, 
and  mix  eighteen  or  twenty  peppercorns  with  them.  Put  it  into  a  baking-dish  and 
place  the  goose  on  the  top.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  basting  occasionally  with 
butter.  When  cooked  place  the  goose  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  the  sourcrout, 
and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  good  gravy. 

Sourcrout  with   Pork  and  Sausages. 

Wash  well  three  pints  of  sourcrout  in  several  waters,  drain  and  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  large  piece  of  well-washed  salt  pork,  two  carrots,  three  smoked  sausages, 
two  whole  onions,  one  whole  breakfast  cupful  of  roast  meat  fat,  half  a  dozen  juniper 
berries,  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  one  pint  of  white  broth.  Let  it  cook 
slowly  for  three  hours;  drain  the  sourcrout  and  dish  it  up  with  the  pork  on  top;  the 
pork  may  either  be  served  in  one  piece  or  divided  into  five  or  six  slices,  arranging  the 
sausages  around. 

Spinach. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  spinach  (sometimes  spelled  spinage)  cultivated  in 
this  country,  the  chief  of  which  are  the  summer  and  winter  kinds;  the  former  is 


480  VEGETABLES. 

known  as  the  round-seeded  or  summer  spinach,  and  the  latter  as  the  prickly  or  winter 
spinach.  The  leaves  are  fleshy  and  succulent,  and  when  thoroughly  washed  by  pass- 
ing through  several  lots  of  fresh  water,  they  may  be  cooked  or  prepared  according  to 
the  following  recipes.  The  juice  of  the  leaves  is  used  to  color  confectionery. 

Blanch  a  peck  of  well-washed  spinach  and  drain  it ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  veal  stock,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  When  ready  to 
serve,  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  melt  well  together,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread. 


Spinach   a  la  Mode. 


Blanch  one  peck  of  spinach,  cutting  off  the  stocks  and  washing  it  well,  chop 
fine,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg. 
Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  adding  one  ounce  of  butter 
kneaded  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and 
one-half  pint  of  milk.  Stir  often  and  cook  for  ten  minutes ;  then  serve,  garnished 
with  half  a  dozen  sippets  of  bread  fried  in  butter. 


Spinach    Croustades. 


Cut  some  heart-shaped  bread  croustades,  fry  them  until  well  browned,  then  scoop 
out  the  crumb  from  their  middle.  Prepare  some  spinach  as  for  spinach  with  cream, 
and  when  ready  fill  the  croustades  with  it. 


Minced   Spinach. 


Boil  the  spinach  in  plenty  of  salted  water.  When  cooked,  drain  off  all  the  water, 
chop  the  spinach  very  fine  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  For  each  pint  of 
minced  spinach  put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one-half  tablespoonful  of  flour 
into  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  smooth  and  cooked.  Put  the  spinach  in 
with  the  cooked  flour  before  it  has  become  brown,  adding  for  each  pint  one-half  tea- 
cupful  of  milk  and  stirring  it  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  Put  the  spinach  into  a  basin, 
then  turn  it  out  in  shape  onto  a  hot  dish.  Put  a  circle  of  hard-boiled  eggs  on  the 
top  of  the  spinach  and  another  circle  of  sliced  eggs  at  the  bottom,  and  serve. 


Spinach   with   Cream. 


Pick  and  wash  the  spinach  well,  boiling  it  in  plenty  of  salted  water;  when  tender, 
drain  and  put  it  in  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes.  Press  all  the  moisture  out  of  the 
spinach  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  dry. 
Dredge  a  little  flour  over  the  spinach,  pour  in  one-fourth  pint  of  boiling  cream  and 
season  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  sugar  and  salt.  Turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish 
with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES.  481 

Boiled   Squash. 

Peel  a  large  winter  or  summer  squash,  or  a  couple  of  small  ones,  cut  them  into 
pieces  about  one-inch  square,  place  them  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  salted 
water,  and  boil  until  tender.  Meanwhile,  for  three  pints  of  squash,  mix  together  in  a 
stewpan  over  the  fire  one  tablespoonful  each  of  flour  and  butter  and  stir  them  until 
they  are  brown;  gradually  add  one  pint  of  boiling  water  and  a  high  seasoning  of  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  when  it  boils,  set  it  aside  until  the  squash  is  done.  After  the 
squash  is  drained  from  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled,  put  it  into  the  hot  brown 
sauce  and  serve  it  without  delay;  or  simply  mash  the  boiled  squash  through  a  colan- 
der, beat  it  together  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and  serve. 

Mashed  Squash. 

Wash  the  squashes  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces  without  removing  the  skin 
and  seeds.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  a  lump  of  salt  and  boil 
until  soft,  which  will  take  in  the  neighborhood  of  half  an  hour.  Then  turn  the  squash 
into  a  cloth,  mash  it,  and  squeeze  it  until  the  moisture  is  extracted.  Return  the 
squash  to  the  saucepan  with  one-half  teacupful  of  cream  for  each  pint,  season  it  to 
taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  thoroughly  hot.  Then 
turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed  Squash. 

Peel  a  squash,  cut  it  into  small  pieces  and  boil  it  in  salted  water  until  tender. 
Drain,  put  it  into  a  clean  towel  and  wring  out  all  the  water;  put  it  again  into  a  sauce- 
pan over  the  fire  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  salt 
and  pepper,  stir  until  it  is  hot,  and  then  serve. 

Succotash. 

Place  six  medium-sized  freshly  cooked  and  scraped  ears  of  Indian  corn  (or  a  can 
of  canned  corn  will  do)  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  Lima  beans,  adding  about  one 
ounce  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  also  one-half 
pint  of  milk.  Heat  it  thoroughly  for  five  minutes,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot 
bechamel  sauce,  stir  all  well  together,  and  serve. 


Sweet    Peppers   Sauted. 


Place  the  sweet  peppers  in  boiling  water  in  order  to  facilitate  the  removal  of  the 
skin  and  divide  each  one  in  two,  cutting  away  all  the  hard  portions,  and  saute  gradu- 
ally in  oil  while  cooking;  then  season  with  salt,  some  finely-chopped  shallot  and 
parsley;  dress  on  a  vegetable  dish,  and  serve. 


482  VEGETABLES. 


Tomatoes,   Andalusian   Style. 


Boil  together  in  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  tomato  sauce  and  three  pints  of  con- 
somme. Add  one-half  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  then  put 
in  two  teaspoonfuls  of  tapioca,  stirring  well  all  the  time.  Cook  for  fifteen  minutes, 
add  twelve  or  fourteen  chicken  quenelles,  and  then  serve. 

Tomatoes  and  Eggs. 

Put  half  a  dozen  ripe  tomatoes  into  a  saucepan  with  a  very  little  water  to  pre- 
vent their  burning  and  boil  them;  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve  and  mix  in  a  little 
chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  two  or  three  eggs.  Turn  the  mixture 
into  a  fryingpan  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter,  fry  until  done  and  serve  on  a  dish. 
Finely-chopped  ham  may  be  added  if  desired. 

Baked   Tomatoes. 

Cut  some  ripe  tomatoes  in  halves,  put  them  in  a  buttered  baking-dish,  sprinkle 
with  plenty  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  stick  small  bits  of  butter 
over  the  top  and  bake  them  until  the  tops  are  slightly  browned. 

Tomatoes,  Bock   Style. 

Wipe  and  peel  eight  fine,  fresh,  ripe  tomatoes.  Cut  each  one  into  six  equal- 
sized  pieces,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  season  with  one 
pinch  of  salt  and  one-half  pinch  of  pepper,  and  one-third  of  a  pinch  of  grated  nut- 
meg. Cover  the  pan  and  place  it  on  a  hot  stove  to  cook  the  contents  for  fifteen 
minutes  or  so.  Remove  from  the  fire,  pour  the  tomatoes  into  a  deep,  hot  vegetable 
dish,  and  send  them  to  the  table  very  hot. 

Broiled   Tomatoes. 

Carefully  remove  the  skin  from  some  good  sound  tomatoes,  and  to  facilitate  this 
they  should  be  placed  for  a  short  time  in  boiling  water,  cut  them  across  in  two,  sea- 
soning with  a  little  salt  and  pour  some  oil  over.  Next  put  them  on  a  hinged  double 
broiler  and  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire,  basting  them  at  frequent  intervals  with  oil. 
When  done  dress  them  on  a  hot  dish. 

Deviled   Tomatoes. 

Mash  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  mix  with  them  one  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  powdered  sugar  and  made  mustard,  and  as  much  cay- 
enne pepper  as  will  lay  on  a  five-cent  piece,  and  rub  in  three  ounces  of  butter,  warmed 
until  it  is  very  soft.  When  these  are  well  mixed  stir  in  by  degrees  three  tablespoon- 


VEGETABLES.  483 

fuls  of  vinegar,  put  the  mixture  into  a  pan  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  get  almost  boiling 
hot;  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs,  return  it  to  the  fire 
and  stir  it  until  it  begins  to  thicken;  then  stand  in  hot  water  on  the  stove  to  keep 
warm.  Take  about  one  quart  of  firm  ripe  tomatoes,  cut  them  into  slices  not  quite 
one-half  inch  thick,  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  place  them  on  a  hot  chafing-dish,  pour 
the  hot  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Fried   Tomatoes. 

Cut  six  or  eight  large  tomatoes  into  thick  slices,  dip  them  in  egg  well  beaten, 
with  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  sugar,  and  cover  them  with  bread  or  cracker- 
crumbs.  Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  with  slices  of  tomatoes  and  fry  them  for  about  ten  minutes,  turning  them  so  as 
to  cook  both  sides  equally.  Place  them  on  pieces  of  toast,  spread  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 


Tomatoes,   Marseilles   Style. 


Select  six  good-sized  firm  tomatoes,  wipe  and  cut  them  into  halves  through  the 
sides.  Pour  one-half  gill  of  sweet  oil  into  a  fryingpan,  let  it  heat  well,  lay  in  the  toma- 
toes on  the  sides  which  were  cut,  and  cook  briskly  for  one  minute.  Butter  well  a  tin 
baking-dish,  lay  the  tomatoes  in  this  on  the  uncooked  sides,  and  season  with  one-half 
pinch  each  of  pepper  and  salt.  Make  a  stuffing  with  finely-chopped  shallot,  two  cloves 
of  crushed  garlic,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  chives,  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  parsley,  two  finely-chopped  anchovies,  and  one  ounce  of  butter.  Stir  well 
together  in  a  bowl  and  cover  the  tops  of  the  tomatoes  with  the  stuffing,  dividing  it 
equally.  Dust  with  a  little  fresh  breadcrumbs,  drop  three  or  four  drops  of  warmed 
butter  over  each  tomato,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  eight  minutes. 

Tomatoes  on   Toast. 

Cut  the  tomatoes  in  halves,  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  them 
on  a  baking-dish,  the  cut  side  upwards,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  Cut  as  many  rounds 
of  bread  as  there  are  halves  of  tomatoes,  toast  them  a  nice  golden-brown  on  both 
sides,  and  butter  them  while  hot.  When  the  tomatoes  are  cooked  place  a  half  on 
each  round  of  toast.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  fried 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Tomato    Pilau. 

Put  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  ripe  tomatoes  into  a  mortar  aud  press  them  to 
extract  their  juice,  which  strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve;  then  pour  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  broth.  Peel  and  chop  fine  two  onions,  put  them  into  a 
fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  until  well  browned.  Drain  the  onions,  put 
them  in  with  the  tomato  juice,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  place  the  saucepan  over  the 


484  VEGETABLES. 

fire.  When  the  liquor  boils  put  in  one  pound  of  well-washed  rice,  and  allow  it  to  sim- 
mer at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  moisture  is  absorbed.  Heat  four  ounces  of  butter, 
stir  it  in  with  the  rice;  put  the  lid  on  the  saucepan  again,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  stove 
for  twenty  minutes.  Turn  the  pilau  onto  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  over  a  little  pepper, 
and  serve  while  very  hot. 

Stewed   Tomatoes. 

Scald  and  peel  the  required  quantity  of  tomatoes,  cut  them  into  halves  or  quar- 
ters, place  them  in  a  lined  saucepan,  and  stew  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when 
the  juice  will  be  partly  boiled  away.  If  desired  the  tomatoes  may  be  thickened  with 
a  little  cornstarch,  moistened  with  cold  water  or  with  cracker  or  breadcrumbs. 
Turn  the  stew  out  onto  a  dish,  sprinkle  over  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  place 
a  few  lumps  of  butter  on  the  top,  let  it  melt,  and  then  serve.  A  little  sugar  may  also 
be  sprinkled  over  if  desired. 

Stewed    Tomatoes    (Sweet). 

Scald  and  peel  a  dozen  or  so  of  ripe  tomatoes,  place  them  in  a  baking-dish  and 
cover  with  sugar;  put  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  the  contents  until  the  sugar 
has  melted  and  dried  down  to  a  syrup.  Take  them  out,  and  serve. 

Stuffed    Tomatoes. 

Wipe  four  large  tomatoes  with  a  soft  cloth,  cut  a  small  round  off  the  top  of  each 
one  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  scoop  out  as  much  of  the  inside  as  can  be  removed  without 
spilling  the  shape  of  the  tomato.  Mix  with  the  scooped  out  center  of  the  tomatoes 
about  one-fourth  pound  of  finely-minced  ham,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  three  small 
onions,  chopping  the  latter  very  fine,  a  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  a  sprig  of  thyme 
and  a  seasoning  of  salt,  cayenne  and  pepper.  Put  all  these  together  into  a  small 
fryingpan  over  the  fire,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  the  liquid  is  somewhat  reduced — 
about  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  will  be  long  enough.  Then  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  fill  the  emptied  tomatoes  with  it.  Bake  them  for  a  short  time  in  a  hot  oven. 
Lay  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  top  of  the  mixture  in  each  tomato  when  they  are 
placed  in  the  oven.  Serve  them  very  hot  on  the  dish  in  which  they  were  baked. 

Tomatoes   with  Sago. 

Boil  one  pint  of  tomatoes  and  three  pints  of  consomme  in  a  saucepan  for  ten 
minutes,  seasoning  with  one-half  pinch  each  of  salt  and  pepper  ;  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  sago,  cook  again  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  gently,  and  serve. 

Tomatoes  with  Spaghetti. 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  each  of  tomato  sauce  and  white  broth,  and  season 
with  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper.  Let  it  boil  well  for  ten  minutes,  then 


VEGETABLES.  485 

throw  in  one-half  pint  of  cooked  spaghetti,  cut  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch   in 
length ;  cook  again  for  five  minutes,  tossing  them  well  meanwhile,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Glazed  Turnips. 

Peel  some  turnips  and  cut  them  into  the  shapes  of  small  pears ;  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  some  water  and  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  boil  them  for  ten 
minutes.  Turn  them  on  a  sieve  and  leave  them  until  thoroughly  drained.  Melt 
about  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  turnips,  strew  in  plenty  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  toss  them  about  over  the  fire  until  they  begin  to  color.  Moisten 
them  with  a  small  quantity  of  broth,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  ground  cin- 
namon, and  boil  them  gently  until  tender.  When  cooked  pile  the  turnips  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve. 

Turnips  in   Batter. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  and  place  it  over  the  fire;  when  it 
has  melted  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar,  and  continue  stirring  it  over  the  fire  until  it 
thickens;  then  put  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  boiled  turnips,  continue  stirring  the 
mixture  over  the  fire,  and  boil  it  for  ten  minutes.  Cut  two  slices  of  bread,  trim  the 
crusts  and  toast  them  nicely.  Butter  the  toast,  cut  each  piece  into  quarters,  and 
place  them  on  a  hot  dish;  pour  the  turnip  mixture  over  them,  and  serve  immediately. 

Mashed  Turnips. 

Peel  the  turnips,  wash  them,  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  put  them  in  a  steamer 
over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  steam  them  for  about  an  hour,  or  until  they  are 
quite  tender;  then  mash  them  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  seasoning  with  salt  and 
pepper. 

Stewed  Turnips  with  Sugar. 

Procure  a  number  of  young  turnips  as  nearly  of  one  size  as  possible,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  them  until  they  are  well  browned.  Sprinkle 
some  powdered  sugar  over  them,  season  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  pour  in  one 
teacupful  of  stock  more  or  less  according  to  the  quantity  of  the  turnips,  place  the 
cover  on  the  saucepan,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  until  they  are  tender.  When 
cooked  turn  the  turnips  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Stuffed   Turnips. 

Choose  turnips  all  of  one  size,  peel  them,  cut  off  the  tops  and  scoop  out  their 
insides.  Chop  fine  two  onions  and  enough  mutton  to  fill  the  turnips,  stir  in  with  it  two 
tablespobnfuls  of  well-washed  rice,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  small 
quantity  each  of  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  all  these  items  together  well.  Stuff  the 


486  VEGETABLES. 

turnips  with  the  mixture,  replace  their  tops,  thus  forming  lids,  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan, moisten  to  their  height  with  broth,  put  in  a  small  lump  of  salt  and  stew  them 
gently  till  tender.  Pour  in  one  wineglassful  of  malt  vinegar  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  finish  cooking  them.  Arrange  the  turnips  tastefully  in  a 
group  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  remainder  of  their  cooking  stock  around 
them,  and  serve. 

Turnips  with    Cream. 

.  Procure  some  nice  tender  turnips  and  boil  then  in  salted  water;  when  done,  turn 
them  onto  a  sieve  and  allow  them  to  drain  well.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a 
stewpan  with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  mix  thoroughly  over  the  fire  with 
one-half  teacupful  of  cream  and  one-half  teacupful  of  milk.  Season  to  taste  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  put  in  the  turnips  and  then 
simmer  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  their  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Turnip    Tops. 

The  young  shoots  of  the  field  turnip  form  a  very  excellent  vegetable  in 
early  spring  when  freshly  gathered  and  used  as  greens.  They  have  a  very  pleasant 
bitter  flavor,  and  are  a  very  good  substitute  for  spinach. 

Boiled   Turnip   Tops. 

Wash  thoroughly  and  pick  over  a  quantity  of  turnip  tops  and  drain  them  well. 
Plunge  them  in  a  good  supply  of  fast-boiling  water  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt  in  it 
and  let  them  boil  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  Drain  them  well  and  serve 
either  plain  or  chopped  fine,  mixed  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  butter. 

Mashed   Turnip   Tops. 

Thoroughly  wash  and  pick  over  a  quantity  of  turnip  tops,  place  them  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  boil  them  until  they  are  tender.  Turn  the  greens  onto 
a  fine  sieve,  press  them  well  to  extract  all  the  water,  and  when  almost  dry  rub 
them  through  the  sieve.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  together 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed;  then 
throw  in  the  turnip  tops,  moisten  with  a  very  little  clear  gravy  and  season  to  taste 
with  pepper  and  salt  Stir  the  puree  over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  then  turn  it  onto 
a  dish,  garnish  it  with  sippets  of  toast,  and  serve. 

Truffles. 

The  kind  of  truffles  which  cooks  have  mostly  to  deal  with  are  known  as  the 
green  and  the  black;  other  kinds,  such  as  the  white,  lack  flavor  and  are  not  consid- 
ered as  of  much  culinary  value.  The  red  truffle  is  supposed  to  be  black  before  it  is 


VEGETABLES.  487 

ripe,  but  some  authorities  consider  it  to  be  a  separate  species.  In  Africa  truffles, 
called  Terfezia,  are  very  abundant  and  find  their  way  into  this  country  as  a  substi- 
tute for  French  truffles.  They  are  not  nearly  so  strong  m  flavor. 

Baked   Truffles. 

Wash  well  and  scrub  a  pound  or  so  of  truffles,  wrap  each  one  in  a  piece  of  but- 
tered paper,  put  them  in  the  oven  or  under  hot  ashes,  and  bake  them  for  an  hour. 
When  done  take  them  out,  and  they  are  then  ready  for  use. 

(2.)  Cut  some  large,  fresh  truffles  into  slices  and  place  them  on  a  dish  that  will 
stand  the  heat  of  the  oven  and  can  be  served  at  table;  dust  them  over  with  salt  and 
pepper,  strew  over  them  moderate  quantities  of  finely-minced  parsley  and  shallot, 
baste  them  with  a  little  olive  oil,  put  another  dish  on  the  top,  and  put  them  in  the 
oven.  When  the  truffles  are  cooked  squeeze  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon  over  them, 
and  serve  them  in  the  same  dish. 

Boiled   Truffles. 

Peel  and  wash  a  dozen  or  more  of  large  truffles,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  just 
large  enough  to  hold  them,  add  three  or  four  cloves,  a  small  piece  of  beaten  mace, 
salt  to  suit  the  taste,  and  pour  over  sufficient  white  wine  and  water,  in  equal  quanti- 
ties, to  cover.  Set  the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  cover  it  over  and  cook  gently  for  one 
hour.  Take  out  the  truffles  when  done,  drain  them,  place  them  on  a  napkin  spread 
on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Broiled   Truffles. 

Wash  well  and  peel  four  or  five  truffles,  cover  them  over  with  slices  of  bacon, 
dust  over  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  wrap  them  round  with  four  or  five  thicknesses 
of  paper  dipped  in  cold  water,  push  them  into  hot  cinders  or  ashes,  and  broil  them 
for  fifteen  minutes  or  so.  Remove  them  when  done,  take  off  two  thicknesses  or  the 
whole  of  the  paper,  place  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Truffles  Cooked    in   Champagne. 

Wash  well  and  clean  one-half  pound  of  truffles,  place  in  a  saucepan,  sprinkle 
over  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  as  well  as  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  moisten 
with  champagne,  and  a  little  blonde  veau  or  veal  stock,  and  boil  until  tender.  Re- 
move the  truffles  when  done,  and  turn  them  on  a  dish ;  strain  the  liquor  into  another 
saucepan,  reduce  it  to  one-half  its  quantity,  pour  it  over  the  truffles,  and  serve. 

Truffles  in    Cases. 

Select  a  quantity  of  truffles,  all  about  of  the  same  size,  peel  them  and  cook  them 
in  white  wine  and  stock,  using  very  little  liquid.  Truffles  should  never  be  cooked 


488  VEGETABLES. 

too  long  as  they  lose  their  flavor  when  overdone.  When  done  leave  them  until  cool, 
and  then  drain  them.  Make  a  pyramid  shape  out  of  cardboard  or  thin  wood,  fix  it 
securely  on  fried  bread  support  and  brush  it  over  with  melted  glaze ;  have  in  readi- 
ness some  small  paper  cases  of  the  same  size,  one  for  each  truffle.  Roll  the  truffles 
in  melted  glaze,  and  place  one  in  each  case.  Brush  the  bottoms  of  the  cases  over 
with  melted  glaze,  and  stick  one  in  each  pyramid,  the  largest  ones  at  the  base  and 
the  smaller  ones  at  the  top.  Stick  three  transparent  attelette  skewers,  garnished  with 
truffles,  on  the  top  of  the  pyramid.  This  piece,  being  directly  dished  on  the  stand, 
is  generally  served  at  ball  buffets,  where  each  guest  may  help  himself. 

Truffles  in    Croustades. 

Wash  and  peel  six  or  eight  truffles,  chop  them  up  small,  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  little  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  warm  them  over  with  a  quick 
fire,  and  pour  in  four  tablespoonfuls  each  of  Madeira  wine  and  melted  glaze.  Remove 
the  saucepan  from  the  fire  when  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity,  add 
a  lump  of  butter,  stir  it  in  well,  and  keep  the  preparation  warm,  Cut  some  slices  of 
bread  about  two-thirds  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  these  into  the  shapes  of  hearts,  or 
any  other  desired  shapes,  mark  them  on  one  surface  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  place 
them  in  a  fryingpan  with  butter  and  fry  them.  Open  them  where  they  were  marked, 
remove  the  insides,  fill  them  with  the  truffle  mixture,  and  serve  on  a  napkin  spread 
over  a  dish. 


Truffles,  Italian    Style. 


Scrub  thoroughly  in  water  eight  or  ten  truffles,  peel  them,  cut  them  up  into  thin 
slices,  place  them  in  a  baking-tin,  sprinkle  over  them  one  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  mace.  Pour 
over  them  four  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  place  them  in  a  fairly  hot  oven,  and  bake 
them  for  forty-five  or  fifty  minutes.  When  cooked,  place  the  truffles  on  a  hot  dish, 
squeeze  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  over  them,  and  serve. 

Stewed    Truffles  on   Crust. 

Cut  some  slices  of  bread  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  shape 
the  pieces  like  half-hearts,  making  them  round  on  one  end  and  pointed  on  the  other, 
with  the  point  of  a  knife,  cutting  an  incision  on  one  side  only  of  each  piece  of  bread. 
Fry  them  in  butter  until  of  a  light  golden  color,  then  drain  and  hollow  them  out, 
but  keep  them  warm.  Cut  about  one-half  pound  of  raw  green  truffles  into  small 
pieces,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  fry  them  over  a  brisk  fire.  Pour  over  the  truffles  one  teacupful  of  melted 
glaze,  and  one  teacupful  of  Madeira  wine,  and  boil  them  gently  until  the  liquor  has 
been  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Remove  the  truffles  from  the  fire, 


VEGETABLES.  489 

thicken  their  cooking  liquor  with  a  small  quantity  of  sauce  and  two  or  three  ounces 
of  butter,  and  stir  it  for  a  few  minutes  at  the  side  of  the  fire;  then  fill  the  crusts  with 
it.  Arrange  them  on  a  folded  napkin  laid  on  a  dish,  and  serve  them  while  hot. 

Stuffed    Truffles. 

Wash  thoroughly  in  warm  water  a  dozen  large  truffles,  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  sufficient  white  wine  to  cover  them,  and  cook.  Remove,  drain,  cut  them 
with  a  cutter,  scoop  out  the  insides,  fill  them  with  cooked  forcemeat,  place  them  in 
the  oven,  warm  them  up,  and  serve  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  warm  dish. 

Timbale  of  Truffles. 

Peel  and  wash  a  pound  or  two  of  truffles,  cut  them  up  into  slices  about  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  a  little  warmed  butter, 
season  them  with  salt  and  grated  nutmeg,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  they  are 
done  taking  care  not  to  break  them.  Meanwhile  rub  one  ounce  of  butter  into  one- 
fourth  pound  of  flour,  add  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  and  form  the  whole  into  a 
rather  stiff  paste  by  adding  the  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs.  Roll  it  out  very  thin  on 
a  floured  board  and  cut  it  into  various  shapes.  Butter  a  plain  timbale-mould  well, 
pack  it  in  ice,  decorate  it  with  the  shapes  of  paste  and  allow  them  to  set.  Prepare 
a  puff  paste  with  one  pound  of  flour  and  twelve  ounces  of  butter,  roll  it  out  thin 
also  and  line  the  mould  with  it.  It  should  be  seven  turns  puff  paste.  Fill  the  mould 
with  the  slices  of  cooked  truffles,  cover  it  with  more  of  the  puff  paste,  make  a  slight 
hole  in  the  center,  place  the  mould  on  a  baking-sheet  in  the  oven,  and  bake.  When 
done,  turn  the  timbale  out  of  the  mould,  make  a  slight  hole  in  the  top,  pour  in  some 
warmed  half-glaze,  cover  over  the  whole  with  a  slice  of  cooked  truffle,  and  serve  hot. 

Macedoine   of  Vegetables. 

Cut  a  small,  raw  carrot  with  a  vegetable  scoop,  put  the  pieces  into  boiling  salted 
water  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes;  repeat  the  same  with  a  small  raw  turnip,  cooking 
each  vegetable  separately.  Drain  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gill  of 
cooked  peas  the  same  quantity  of  cooked  string  beans,  about  one-half  inch  in  length, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  flagelots  and  a  small  piece  of  cauliflower.  Moisten 
with  one-half  pint  of  hot  bechamel  sauce  and  season  with  one-half  pinch  each  of 
salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Allow  it  to  simmer  gently  for  ten  min- 
utes, and  use  as  required. 

Vegetable   Puree. 

Prepare  any  kind  of  vegetables,  such  as  potatoes,  leeks,  carrots,  onions,  turnips, 
etc.,  place  them  all  together  in  a  stewpan  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  stock  to  cover 
them,  and  salt,  pepper  and  spices  to  taste,  and  boil  them  until  they  are  quite  tender; 


490 


VEGETABLES. 


then  mash  them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  and  then  mix  in  the  puree  gradually. 
Stir  it  again  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  beat  in  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  up  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  and 
strained.  Turn  the  puree  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  it  with  sippets  of  toast  or  croutons 
of  bread  that  have  been  fried  brown  in  butter,  and  serve. 

German  Mode    of  Cooking  Watercress. 

Wash  a  quantity  of  watercress  and  chop  it  slightly;  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in 
a  stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  well-browned, 
then  pour  in  gradually  one-half  pint  of  water  and  keep  on  stirring  over  the  fire  until 
boiling.  Season  the  sauce  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  sufficient 
lemon  juice  or  vinegar  to  give  it  an  agreeable  acidity.  Put  in  the  watercress,  boil  up, 
then  turn  it  into  a  dish,  and  serve  as  a  vegetable. 

Stewed    Watercress. 

Trim  off  the  coarse  ends  of  the  stems  and  thoroughly  wash  the  watercress,  then 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  salt  and  boil  it.  When  cooked,  turn  the 
watercress  into  a  colander  and  press  out  as  much  of  the  water  as  possible;  put  about 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  to  melt,  then  put  in  the  cress  and  sprinkle  over  it  a 
little  flour.  Stir  the  cress  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes,  and  pour  in  one-half  pint  of 
broth,  season  it  with  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  and  boil  for 
ten  minutes  longer,  stirring  all  the  time.  Turn  the  watercress  onto  a  hot  dish,  gar- 
nish with  croutons  of  fried  bread  and  halves  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve. 


STOCKS. 

Fumet   of  Game. 

Take  one  carrot  and  half  an  onion;  peel  and  cut  them  into  slices  and  put  them 
with  half  a  sprig  of  thyme,  one  bay  leaf,  a  little  chopped,  raw,  lean  ham  and  the  car- 
cass of  any  kind  of  raw  game  in  a  covered  saucepan.  Let  brown,  add  one  wine- 
glassful  of  Madeira  and  boil;  then  moisten  with  a  quart  of  white  broth  or  consomme 
and  add  a  pinch  of  salt  and  twelve  whole  peppers.  Cook  well  for  forty-five  minutes, 
then  pass  through  a  broth  napkin  and  preserve  in  a  jar. 

Glaze   for   Cold    Fowl. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  five  parts  of  veloute  sauce  to  one  of  chicken  stock,  reduce 
to  a  glaze,  thicken  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  pass  through  a  sieve,  when  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Glaze  for  Cold   Hams  and  Tongues. 

Put  half  a  shin  of  beef  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gallon  of  water  and  boil  for  twelve 
hours.  Boil  a  knuckle  of  veal  in  water  until  all  the  goodness  is  extracted;  strain  the 
liquors  from  the  beef  and  veal,  mix  them  together,  seasoning  with  moderate  quanti- 
ties of  salt,  pepper  and  cloves,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  one  pint.  Strain  the  glaze 
through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  pour  it  into  the  jar.  When  cold  tie  it  over  and  keep  in 
a  dry  place.  The  glaze  will  keep  good  for  ten  or  twelve  months.  A  small  portion 
of  it  should  be  warmed  for  use  and  brushed  over  the  article  with  a  feather. 

Glaze   for    Cold    Partridges    or  Woodcocks. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  five  parts  of  Spanish  sauce  with  one  part  of  game  stock, 
reduce,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  stir  it  into  a  little  brown  meat  jelly.  It  will  remain 
good  for  a  long  time  if  kept  in  a  jar  in  a  cool  place. 

Glaze  for  Turkeys. 

Skim  off  the  fat  from  some  meat  jelly,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  and  stir  over  a  sharp 
fire  until  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream.  Skim  it  and  strain  it  into  jars  in 
which  it  should  be  kept  until  needed  for  use.  It  should  be  made  hot  before  using, 
and  brushed  over  the  bird  with  a  paste  brush. 


492 


STOCKS. 


Half-Glaze    (Demi-Glaze). 

Put  one  pint  of  veal  broth,  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce  and  three  ounces  of  meat- 
glaze  in  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  strain  through  a 
hair-sieve,  pour  into  jars,  cover  with  paper  and  keep  until  wanted  for  use. 

Yellow  Glaze  for  Cakes. 

Beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg  with  four  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar,  add  to  it 
by  degrees  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  beat  it  well,  for  the  more  it  is  beaten 
the  whiter  it  will  be.  When  it  is  white  enough,  add  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  strained 
infusion  of  saffron.  Grate  the  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon  on  lumps  of  sugar,  or  if  the 
flavor  of  lemon  peel  is  desired,  the  rinds  of  two  lemons  may  be  used.  Scrape  off  the 
yellow  sugar,  pound  and  beat  it  in,  being  careful  not  to  put  too  much,  or  the  glaze 
will  be  bitter. 

Jelly  for    Cold   Fish. 

Take  a  small  skate,  clean  it  well,  place  it  over  the  fire  in  a  fish-kettle  with  a  calf's 
foot,  a  slice  of  bacon,  an  onion,  a  piece  of  horse-radish,  three  or  four  blades  of  mace, 
a  piece  of  lemon  peel,  and  a  sprinkling  of  white  pepper.  Pour  over  three  quarts  of 
water  and  allow  it  to  simmer  until  it  is  a  jelly.  Strain,  let  it  stand  until  cold,  and 
take  off  the  fat;  take  the  jelly  up  without  the  sediment,  place  it  over  the  fire  with  a 
piece  of  lemon,  the  whites  of  four  eggs  and  a  glass  of  sherry.  Allow  it  to  boil  for  a 
few  minutes  without  stirring,  then  place  it  in  a  warm  spot,  and  let  it  stand  for  half  an 
hour.  Strain  through  a  sieve  with  a  cloth  in  it,  and  cover  the  cold  fish  with  it. 


Savory  Jelly  as   Mayonnaise. 


Prepare  one  quart  of  aspic  jelly,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  and  one  pinch  of  mignonette  pepper;  whisk 
the  jelly  for  ten  minutes,  then  place  the  pan  on  the  ice,  and  continue  whipping  until 
the  mayonnaise  is  set  and  firm;  remove,  melt,  then  whip  it  over  the  ice  till  it  sets 
again.  Warm  it  once  more,  and  strain  through  a  jelly  bag.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 
Whipping  it  over  the  ice  twice,  it  is  generally  conceded,  makes  it  whiter  and 
smoother. 

Marinade. 

This  is  a  French  culinary  term  which  signifies  a  brine,  in  which  fish,  flesh,  or 
fowl  may  be  soaked  for  a  while  before  cooking  them.  By  doing  this  a  considerable 
addition  is  made  to  the  flavor  of  the  article  marinaded.  Marinades  may  be  either 
cooked  or  raw,  the  former  being  used  either  hot  or  cold.  Stew  together  a  finely-sliced 
onion  and  four  parsley  roots,  adding  one  pint  of  vinegar  and  four  quarts  of  fresh 
water ;  also  a  quarter  of  a  bunch  of  thyme,  six  bay  leaves,  twenty-four  whole  peppers, 


STOCKS. 


493 


and  twelve  cloves.     Cook  these  for  thirty  minutes  on  a  brisk  fire,  then  put  them  in  a 
stone  jar  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  for  use. 

Marinade  for   Beef. 

Pour  into  a  stewpan  equal  quantites  of  water  and  vinegar,  the  quantity  depend- 
ing upon  the  size  of  the  sirloin  to  be  marinaded,  add  a  few  sliced  onions  and  carrots, 
salt,  peppercorns,  and  a  clove  of  garlic.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  boil  until  all  the 
goodness  is  extracted  from  the  vegetables,  then  strain  and  let  it  get  cold.  The  meat 
should  be  left  for  fully  twenty-four  hours  to  soak. 

Marinade   for   Fish. 

Chop  fine  two  carrots,  three  onions,  six  shallots,  and  a  clove  of  garlic  ;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  bunch  each  of  sweet  herbs  and  parsley,  and  a  little  butter, 
then  let  cook  slowly  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  ;  pour  in  two  pints  of  cider  or  any 
sweet  wine,  though  the  former  is  preferable,  and  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes,  next 
add  two  dozen  peppercorns  and  an  equal  quantity  of  allspice,  three  cloves  and  a 
handful  of  salt.  Place  the  saucepan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  for  an 
hour  and  a  half ;  strain,  and  the  marinade  is  ready  for  use.  It  is  generally  employed 
for  the  purpose  of  boilng  fish,  to  which  it  gives  a  very  pleasant  flavor.  It  will  last 
for  a  long  time,  and  can  be  used  on  several  occasions,  taking  care  to  strain  it  after  the 
fish  has  been  boiled  and  removed. 

Marinade   for   Game. 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  the  contents  of  one  bottle  of  wine  (white),  one  pint  of 
vinegar,  one  quart  of  water,  one  handful  of  peppercorns,  four  bay  leaves,  a  few  lumps 
of  sugar,  a  slice  or  two  of  carrot  and  onion,  and  a  root  of  parsley;  boil  up  well,  turn 
the  marinade  into  an  earthern  pan,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  All  large  game  should  be 
marinaded  for  at  least  two  days  before  cooking,  and  should  be  turned  in  it  once  or 
twice  each  day. 

Mirepoix. 

This  is  the  name  given  to  a  flavoring  used  for  savory  stew.    It  is  made  as  follows: 

Take  two  carrots,  two  onions,  two  bay  leaves,  two  shallots  and  a  clove  of  garlic, 

and  mince  them  together  with  one-half  pound  of  fat  bacon  and  raw  ham.     Toss  these 

in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces   of  butter  and  salt  to  season.     Stew  with  one-half  pint 

of  red  or  white  wine,  and  add  to  stock  or  sauce  as  required. 

Stock. 

This  is  a  liquid  or  jelly  containing  the  juices  and  soluble  parts  of  meat  and  cer- 
tain vegetables  extracted  by  cooking,  for  the  purpose  of  making  soups,  gravies  or 


494 


STOCKS. 


sauces.  Such  a  broad  definition  leaves  much  to  the  discretion  of  the  cook,  and  it  is 
not,  therefore,  surprising  that  stock  is  as  varied  as  the  purposes  for  which  it  is  used, 
and  even  more  so,  as  every  cook  has  his  or  her  own  fancy  in  the  preparation  of  stock, 
and  many  are  compelled  to  use  whatever  may  be  at  hand.  Bones  and  trimmings  of  meat 
make  good  stock,  and  as  these  need  to  be  cooked  for  a  long  time  they  should  be  set 
near  the  fire  after  once  boiling  up,  in  a  stockpot,  the  best  of  which  are  fitted  with  a 
tap  or  faucet  so  that  any  quantity  can  be  drawn  off  at  a  time  free  from  the  fat  which 
naturally  floats  on  top.  When  the  stock  is  cold  a  cake  of  fat  will  be  found  on  the 
top,  which  can  be  removed  by  passing  a  knife  around  between  it  and  the  sides  of  the 
pot.  It  can  then  be  lifted  off  and  carefully  cleared  of  the  jelly  and  the  jelly  wiped 
over  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  in  hot  water.  If  the  stock  be  required  before  it  has  had 
time  to  cool,  and  the  stockpot  has  no  tap,  then  most  of  the  fat  can  be  removed  by 
straining  the  stock  several  times  through  a  napkin  dipped  repeatedly  in  cold  water. 
In  the  following  recipes  full  directions  will  be  found. 


Crayfish   Stock. 


Boil  three  dozen  crayfish,  put  the  meat  from  the  tails  together  with  the  bodies 
into  a  mortar  and  pound  thoroughly  with  one  dozen  blanched  sweet  almonds.  Put 
four  ounces  each  of  ham  and  veal  into  a  saucepan  with  a  few  parsnips,  sliced  onions 
and  carrots,  cook  for  a  few  minutes  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  then  add  a  small  quantity 
of  melted  bacon  fat  and  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  stir  the  latter  in  thoroughly  and 
pour  in  the  amount  of  stock  required.  Season  with  mushrooms,  truffles,  chives, 
cloves,  basil,  salt,  pepper  and  parsley,  and  add  two  or  three  small  breadcrusts. 
Simmer  slowly  until  the  veal  is  done,  take  it  out,  add  the  mashed  crayfish  and  rub 
the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  It  is  then  ready  for  use.  This  stock  may  be  used 
for  moistening  pies,  patties,  etc.,  or  for  cooking  such  vegetables  as  cauliflowers, 
cardoons,  etc.,  or  it  may  simply  be  served  with  boiled  rice. 

Dark  Stock. 

Secure  a  piece  from  the  shin  or  lower  part  of  a  round  of  beef,  with  an  equal 
weight  of  bones,  and  place  the  latter  in  a  stockpot.  Wipe  the  meat  over  with  a  cloth 
dipped  in  cold  water  and  cut  it  into  nice-sized  pieces.  Peel  the  required  quantity  of 
onions  and  fry  them  in  butter  until  they  are  darkly  browned;  then  put  in  the  pieces 
of  meat  and  brown  them  also.  Put  the  meat  in  the  stockpot  with  the  bones,  add  any 
other  trimmings  of  meat  that  may  be  convenient,  fill  the  pot  with  cold  water  and 
place  it  over  the  fire.  When  the  liquor  boils  take  the  stockpot  off  the  fire,  remove 
the  scum,  put  in  the  browned  onions  with  some  prepared  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  a  flavoring  of  allspice,  ground  pepper,  celery  seed,  cloves 
and  salt;  add  also  one  tablespoonful  of  caramel.  Keep  the  stock  simmering  slowly 
at  the  edge  of  the  fire  until  the  meat  is  in  shreds, -then  strain  it  through  a  hair-sieve 


STOCKS. 


495 


into  a  basin.  It  should  never  be  allowed  to  remain  in  an  iron  kettle  after  it  is  made. 
Set  the  basin  in  a  cool  place,  keeping  it  uncovered.  Leave  the  fat  which  forms  at 
the  top  of  the  stock  in  a  thick  cake  until  the  stock  is  needed,  as  it  excludes  the  air 
and  thus  assists  in  keeping  the  stock.  It  will  be  preserved  at  least  a  week  longer  in 
winter  if  no  vegetables  are  used.  A  little  fresh  charcoal  tied  in  a  muslin  bag  and 
boiled  in  the  stock  is  said  to  restore  it  when  only  slightly  changed. 

First  Stock. 

Procure  a  piece  of  beef,  the  breast  part  will  answer,  put  it  into  the  stockpot  with 
some  trimmings  of  beef,  pour  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cold  water,  allowing  about 
two  pints  to  the  pound  of  beef,  and  set  it  over  the  fire.  Keep  it  well  skimmed, 
removing  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  rises  to  the  top,  and  pouring  in  occasionally  a  little 
cold  water  to  force  the  scum  to  the  surface.  When  quite  clear  put  in  a  few  prepared 
vegetables,  such  as  turnips,  carrots,  onions  stuck  with  cloves,  leeks  and  celery;  add 
one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  move  the  stockpot  to  the.  edge  of  the  fire  and  allow 
the  contents  to  simmer  for  five  or  six  hours.  Skim  off  all  the  fat  and  strain  the  broth 
through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin.  When  using  the  broth  pour  it  out  carefully,  so 
as  to  avoid  disturbing  the  sediment  at  the  bottom.  This  broth  is  used  for  making 
any  other  kind  of  broth. 

Clear  French  Stock. 

Cut  up  six  or  seven  pounds  of  beef,  place  it  in  a  stockpot  with  some  crushed 
bones  and  a  few  peeled  turnips,  carrots,  parsnips  and  one  broiled  onion,  a  bunch  of 
laurel  leaf  and  parsley,  two  or  three  cloves,  a  small  lump  of  sugar,  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste.  Pour  in  three  quarts  of  water,  place  the  stockpot  over  the  fire  until  the 
liquor  boils;  then  skim  it  well,  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  it  simmer  for  six  or  seven 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  skim  the  stock  again,  then  strain  it  into  a  basin. 
When  cold  remove  all  the  fat  from  the  top  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Game   Stock. 

Put  the  carcasses  of  two  birds  and  one  pint  of  mirepoix  into  a  saucepan,  cover 
with  water,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

General   Stock. 

i 

Take  four  pounds  of  any  fresh  trimmings  of  lean  meat  and  bones,  cut  the  meat 
from  the  bones  and  break  them;  put  them  in  a  stockpot  together  with  the  meat,  add 
a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  five  quarts  of  water.  Place  the  stockpot  over  the  fire  and 
let  the  contents  boil.  Skim  the  stock  and  then  add  some  scraped  and  washed  carrot, 
a  peeled  onion  or  two  and  one  or  two  trimmed  and  washed  leeks;  cover  the  pot 


496  STOCKS. 

closely  and  let  the  contents  boil  gently  for  at  least  five  hours.     Strain  the  stock,  pour 
it  into  a  bowl  and  allow  it  to  stand  in  a  cold  place  till  it  is  required  for  use. 

Gravy   Stock. 

Put  one  pound  of  lean  minced  beef  into  a  flat  stewpan,  place  the  cover  on  and 
toss  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the  meat  is  browned.  Pour  over  two  breakfast  cupfuls 
of  hot  water  and  let  this  boil  until  half  the  liquor  has  evaporated  ;  then  pour  in  an- 
other half  pint  of  water  and  add  a  thick  slice  of  lean  ham,  one  onion,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  a  little  ground  mace,  and  salt  to  taste.  Let  this  boil  until  the  liquor  is 
again  reduced  to  less  than  half  a  pint,  then  pass  the  liquor  through  a  strainer  or 
squeeze  it  in  a  broth  napkin,  and  when  all  the  liquor  possible  is  squeezed  out,  set  it 
away  to  cool.  There  should  not  be  any  fat,  but  if  there  should  happen  to  be  any,  it 
will  collect  and  harden  at  the  top.  This  gravy  stock  is  useful  at  all  times  for  making 
gravy  at  a  minute's  notice. 

Mixed   Stock. 

Put  the  trimmings  and  bones  of  any  kind  of  meat  into  a  stockpot  with  one  quart 
of  water  with  every  two  pounds  of  meat  and  bones,  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  the 
contents  commence  to  boil.  Skim  the  stock,  move  it  to  the  side,  and  let  it  simmer 
very  slowly  for  six  or  seven  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  into  the  stockpot  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  moderate  sized  onion  with  half  a  dozen  cloves  stuck  in  it, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns.  Keep  the  stock  simmering  for  two  hours  longer, 
removing  the  scum  occasionally ;  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  large 
bowl,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place.  On  the  next  morning  skim  off  the  fat. 

Second   Stock. 

This  is  made  with  the  bones,  meat,  vegetables,  etc.  that  have  been  previously 
boiled  in  the  first  stock.  After  the  liquor  has  been  drained  off  them,  pour  in  about 
three  quarts  of  water,  and  let  it  simmer  for  four  or  five  hours.  Afterward  strain  it 
off  into  a  basin,  and  keep  it  in  a  larder  for  making  sauces,  purees,  etc.,  or  it  may 
have  another  quart  of  water  added  to  it,  and  be  boiled  until  reduced  to  one  pint. 
Then  strain  it  off  into  a  basin.  When  cold  it  will  be  very  stiff,  and  can  be  used  for 
glaze. 

Veal   Stock   or  Veal   Blond. 

Melt  a  small  lump  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  then  put  in  four  sliced  onions,  four 
pounds  of  leg  of  veal,  two  pounds  of  gravy  beef,  and  two  old  fowls  from  which  the 
flesh  has  been  cut.  Pour  in  one  pint  of  stock,  stand  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and 
boil  the  mixture  down  to  a  glaze,  then  pour  in  five  quarts  of  stock,  and  put  in  a  heap- 
ing tablespoonful  of  salt.  When  boiling,  skim  the  stock,  and  add  in  some  carrots 


STOCKS.  497 

and  leeks,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  four  hours  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Strain  the 
stock  through  a  broth  napkin,  leave  it  until  cool,  then  skim  off  all  the  fat.  Trim  the 
fat  and  chop  the  flesh  of  the  fowls  fine,  place  it  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it  to  a  pulp ; 
then  put  it  into  a  large  stewpan,  mix  in  first  a  small  quantity  of  veal  stock,  and  then 
add  the  rest.  Stand  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  stir  the  contents  till  boiling,  then 
move  it  to  the  side,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes.  If  quite  clear  at  the 
end  of  that  time,  strain  the  stock  through  a  broth  napkin,  to  be  kept  until  required. 


Butters,  Hot  and  Cold. 

Anchovy   Butter. 

This  is  very  useful  and  can  be  used  to  spread  on  slips  of  toast  as  a  relish,  or 
may  be  employed  in  making  anchovy  sauce  for  fish,  or  be  served  in  pats  garnished 
with  parsley.  Clean  bone  and  beat  in  a  mortar  to  a  paste  one  part  of  anchovies  to 
two  parts  of  fresh  butter  and  add  four  ounces  more  butter.  Pass  through  a  sieve. 
Some  cooks  add  spices  and  other  finely-chopped  parsley  that  has  been  scalded. 
Cayenne  pepper  and  nutmeg  may  also  be  added  to  taste. 

Black   or  Brown   Butter. 

Place  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire  about  half  a  pound  of  butter,  leaving  it  there 
until  it  browns  and  then  cool.  In  another  pan  put  a  teacupful  of  vinegar  and  a 
little  pepper  and  boil  until  reduced  one-third.  When  the  butter  is  quite  cold  put  in 
the  pepper  and  vinegar  and  again  warm  it  over  the  fire,  stirring  it  well,  but  do  not  allow 
it  to  boil;  when  thoroughly  mixed  together,  pour  off  into  pots. 

Crayfish    Butter. 

Take  the  shells  and  small  claws  of  some  crayfish,  place  them  in  a  mortar  with 
a  large  piece  of  butter  and  pound  until  they  become  a  paste.  Put  this  into  a  stew- 
pan  and  the  stewpan  into  a  bain-marie.  When  the  mixture  is  quite  hot  pass  it 
through  a  tammy  into  a  basin  of  cold  water  and  let  the  butter  rise  to  the  top;  it  is 
then  ready  for  use.  A  second  method  is  to  pick  the  meat  from  the  tails  of  a  dozen 
crayfish,  dry  the  shells  and  pound  them  all  together  in  a  mortar,  adding  one  ounce 
of  good  butter.  Put  all  into  a  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  until  it  clarifies, 
then  strain  it  through  a  napkin,  letting  it  fall  into  cold  water.  When  congealed,  take 
it  out  and  place  in  a  warm  basin,  stirring  until  it  takes  the  color. 

Creamed  Butter. 

This  is  better  adapted  for  the  making  of  cakes  and  some  kinds  of  pastry.  The 
requisite  amount  is  poured  into  a  basin  and  held  before  the  fire  until  thoroughly 
melted  and  then  beaten  with  the  hand. 

• 

Drawn  Butter. 

Dissolve  over  a  slow  fire  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  sprinkling  in  about  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour;  afterward  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  a  pinch  of  salt. 

498 


BUTTERS,  HOT  AND  COLD.  499 

Boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  well,  and  then  put  in  a  teaspoonful  of  cold  water.  If 
intended  for  a  pudding  sauce  put  in  a  glass  of  white  wine  and  half  a  grated  nutmeg, 
stirring  thoroughly. 

Garlic  Butter  Sauce. 

Peel  and  boil  a  couple  of  garlics  as  for  "Garlic  Flavoring  for  Gravies,"  drain, 
pound  them  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar  together  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  saltspoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper;  rub  the  mass  through  a  fine  hair-sieve, 
mix  with  it  one  breakfast  cupful  of  butter  warmed  to  melting  and  the  strained  juice 
of  a  lemon.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Horseradish  Butter. 

This  is  made  by  pounding  grated  horseradish  and  butter  and  adding  salt  to  taste. 
The  quantity  of  horseradish  depends  upon  how  strong  the  taste  is  required. 

Lobster   Butter. 

Take  the  head  and  spawn  of  some  hen  lobsters,  put  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound; 
add  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  butter,  and  pound  both  together,  being  sure  that  they 
are  thoroughly  mixed.  Pass  this  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  the  butter  is  then 
ready  for  use.  It  is  very  nice  for  garnishing  or  for  making  sandwiches. 

Maitre  d'Hotel   Butter. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  together  with  the  juice  of  two  lemons  in  a  basin,  and  mix  them  well 
together,  keeping  in  a  cool  place. 

Olive   and   Anchovy   Butter. 

Stone  some  French  olives,  wash  and  chop  them.  Skin  and  bone  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  anchovies,  chop  them  also,  and  mix  them  with  the  olives.  Pour  the  mixture 
into  a  mortar  with  half  its  bulk  of  fresh  butter  and  pound  all  together  until  perfectly 
smooth.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  shape  it  into  small  balls. 
Keep  them  on  a  dish  which  is  placed  over  ice  until  they  are  ready  to  serve.  This 
butter  is  very  nice  served  with  toast. 

Ravigote    Butter. 

Place  in  a  mortar  one  sprig  of  parsley,  and  tarragon,  a -very  small  quantity  of 
chives  and  a  like  amount  of  chervil,  one  small  peeled  shallot,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
anchovy  essence,  an  ounce  of  good  butter,  and  a  half  drop  of  spinach  green,  then  pound 
them  well  together.  After  this,  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place. 


5oo  BUTTERS,  HOT  AND  COLD. 

Sardine  Butter. 

Remove  the  skins  and  bones  from  seven  or  eight  sardines,  put  the  fish  in  a  mor- 
tar and  pound  it  until  smooth.  Boil  two  large  handfuls  of  parsley  until  tender,  then 
squeeze  it  as  dry  as  possible,  remove  all  the  stalks  or  stems,  and  chop  it.  Put  the 
parsley  in  the  mortar  with  the  sardines  and  four  ounces  of  butter  and  pound  again. 
When  well  incorporated  mould  the  butter  into  shapes  and  keep  it  on  ice  until  the 
time  of  serving.  The  above  is  excellent  spread  on  hot  toast. 

Shrimp  Butter. 

Pick  and  shell  one  pound  of  shrimps,  place  them  in  a  mortar  to  pound,  add  one- 
half  pound  of  butter,  and  when  well  mixed  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  The 
butter  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Tarragon  Butter. 

Mince  some  tarragon  leaves,  put  one  tablespoonful  of  them  into  a  mortar,  pound 
well  and  work  in  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Rub  the  preparation  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  it  is  then  ready 
for  use,  and  should  be  served  with  soles  and  mackerel. 

Thickened  Butter. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  the  yolks  of  a  couple  of  eggs  and  break  them  gently  with  a 
spoon,  adding  slowly  four  ounces  of  butter  melted  but  not  browned,  and  set  the  pan 
over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  well  until  of  the  required  consistence. 


Gravies. 

Garlic   Flavoring  for   Gravies. 

Peel  a  few  cloves  of  garlic,  plunge  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  let 
them  remain  for  five  minutes,  take  out  and  put  them  in  another  pan  containing  boil- 
ing water,  and  boil  for  five  minutes  longer.  Continue  in  this  way  until  the  cloves  of 
garlic  are  quite  tender;  add  a  pinch  of  salt  to  the  liquor,  mix  it  in  with  gravy  in 
equal  proportions  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Garlic  Flavoring  for    a    Salad  (Chapon). 

Cut  from  a  loaf  of  bread  a  thin  crust  two  inches  long  by  one  inch  wide  and 
sprinkle  over  a  little  salt.  Rub  a  peeled  clove  of  garlic  ovei  both  sides  of  the  crust, 
lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  salad  bowl,  place  the  salad  over  and  stir  it  about. 

Chicken  Gravy. 

Put  into  a  stockpot  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  a  fowl  or  chicken  with  a  small 
quantity  of  stock  and  boil  them;  add  flour  and  butter  (previously  browned  to  a  light 
brown)  to  thicken  it  and  then  place  the  pot  at  the  side  of  the  stove  and  let  it  simmer. 
Stir  well,  and  after  the  gravy  has  simmered  for  some  time,  skim  and  strain  it,  and  it 
is  then  ready  for  use. 

Colorings  for   Gravies. 

(1)  Put  a  little  burnt  Spanish  onion  into  a  basin,  pour  some  boiling  water  over 
it,  and  work  it  with  a  spoon.     Put  it  into  the  gravy  and  boil  up  together.     This  gives 
to  the  gravy  a  decided  flavor. 

(2)  Put  an  old  iron  spoon  into  the  fire  and  make  it  hot.     A  little   moist  sugar 
dropped  into  the  spoon  gives  a  caramel  that  only  requires  to  be  mixed  in  the  gravy 
to  give  the  latter  any  tinge  of  brown  desired. 

(3)  Baked  raspings  from  bread  will  thicken   and  brown   all   kinds   of  gravies, 
but  will  not  color  to  give  satisfaction  without  thickening. 

(4)  A  little  flour  baked  until  quite  brown  in  a  tin  dish  will  color  the  gravy  and 
may  be  always  kept  on  hand  ready  for  use,  but  is  as  objectionable  as  bread  raspings 
for  general  use. 

Fish  Gravy. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  pounds  of  any  kind  of  fish  flesh  cut  into  pieces  with  half 
a  gallon  of  water,  and  add  a  blade  of  mace,  three  cloves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and 

501 


502 


GRAVIES. 


a  small  quantity  each  of  lemon  peel  and  salt.  Place  the  lid  on  the  pan,  set  it  on  the 
fire  and  boil  until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one-half  its  original  quantity,  then  add  a 
lump  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  well  until  the  latter  is  quite 
smooth,  or  the  flour  and  butter  may  be  worked  smooth  in  a  saucepan  and  the  gravy 
strained  over.  Boil  for  a  few  minutes,  and  the  gravy  is  then  ready  for  use. 


Game  Gravy  for  Mutton. 


Pluck  and  draw  a  very  high  woodcock  or  snipe,  cut  it  in  pieces  together  with  its 
entrails  (with  the  bag  taken  out),  put  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  plain  and  un- 
seasoned meat  gravy  to  a  little  more  than  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  several  hours, 
then  strain  and  serve.  This  gravy  if  used  for  mutton  that  has  been  kept  for  some 
time  will  give  it  a  strong  venison  flavor. 

i 

Gravy  for  Roasted  Goose. 

When  the  goose  is  roasted  or  baked  turn  nearly  all  of  the  fat  out  of  the  pan,  but 
do  not  pour  away  the  brown  part  of  the  drippings.  Put  the  pan  over  the  fire,  stir 
into  it  one  piled  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  let  the  flour  brown;  then  stir  in  a  pint  of 
boiling  water,  season  the  gravy  with  salt  and  pepper,  boil  for  a  moment,  and  serve. 

Meat  Gravy. 

Cut  off  the  rind  from  one  pound  of  raw  lean  ham,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  little  butter,  and  add  four  onions,  each  cut  into  quarters.  Put  about  six  pounds 
of  fillet  of  veal  and  the  same  of  gravy  beef  in  the  saucepan,  add  one  pint  of 
general  stock,  put  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  reduce  the  liquor  to  a  dark  glaze, 
taking  care  not  to  let  it  burn.  Now  add  two  gallons  of  stock,  one  fowl,  a  bunch 
of  herbs  and  a  lump  of  salt;  boil  up  again,  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the 
fire  and  allow  the  contents  to  simmer  for  four  hours.  Strain  through  a  cloth, 
remove  the  fat,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  It  may  be  clarified  for  jelly  if  necessary 
with  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and  one  pound  of  pounded  veal. 

Shallot   Gravy. 

Put  half  a  dozen  peeled  shallots  into  a  saucepan  with  one  wineglassful  of  vinegar, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  boil  for  eight  minutes;  then  add  one  teacupful  of  brown 
gravy  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Before  serving  the  gravy  should  be  strained 
through  a  sieve. 

Thick  Gravy  with  Fine  Herbs. 

Take  one  large  onion,  chop  it  up  small  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pat  of 
butter  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  lightly  colored;  then  put  in  two  and  a  half  break- 


GRAVIES.  503 

fast  cupfuls  of  half  glaze  and  a  breakfast  cupful  of  broth  and  boil  until  reduced  to  two- 
thirds;  then  skim  it  well,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  parsley,  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  a  little  cayenne  and  boil  for  five  minutes. 
When  about  to  serve  squeeze  in  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 


Gravy   for   Turkey. 


Take  an  onion  and  chop  as  fine  as  possible.  Put  it  into  a  fryingpan  with  a 
little  butter  and  fry  until  it  is  dark  brown.  Put  three  gills  of  stock  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  little  finely-chopped  ham,  a  sprig  each  of  parsley  and  thyme,  a  little  Worces- 
tershire sauce,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  then  boil  for  from  five  to  ten  minutes. 
Strain  into  a  basin  or  sauceboat. 


Veal   Gravy. 


Take  one  pound  of  lean  ham  cut  in  slices  and  a  knuckle  of  veal  cut  up  and  put 
them  into  a  well-buttered  stewpan  with  any  bones  of  chickens  and  rabbits  which  may 
be  at  hand;  pour  two  quarts  of  stock  over  this,  cover  it  and  boil  it  down  to  a  glase. 
When  it  is  a  deep  red  fill  it  up  with  stock;  as  soon  as  it  boils  skim  well;  add  three 
or  four  cloves,  two  blades  of  mace,  three  good-sized  carrots  and  the  same  amount  of 
chopped  celery,  onions  and  turnips.  Let  it  simmer  for  about  three  hours,  then  strain 
it  through  a  tammy  sieve  into  a  pan  to  cool  for  use. 


Gravy  for  Venison. 


Take  two  or  three  pounds  of  loin  of  mutton,  remove  all  the  fat  and  cut  it  into 
rather  thick  slices,  grill  them  for  a  minute  or  two  on  one  side  only  so  as  to  slightly 
brown  them,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  pour  over  one  quart  of  water,  place  the  lid  on 
the  pan  and  simmer  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  an  hour;  then  take  off  the  lid  and  boil 
until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Season  with  salt  only  when 
wanted  for  use. 


Gravy  for  Wild  Fowl. 


Put  into  a  small  saucepan  a  blade  of  mace,  a  piece  of  lemon  peel,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  each  of  mushroom  catsup,  walnut  catsup  and  strained  lemon  juice,  two  shal- 
lots cut  in  slices;  and  two  wineglassfuls  of  port  wine;  put  the  saucepan  over  the  fire 
and  boil  the  contents;  then  strain,  and  add  it  to  the  gravy  that  has  come  from  the 
fowl  while  roasting.  If  there  should  be  a  large  quantity  of  gravy,  less  wine,  catsup, 
etc.,  will  be  necessary, 


Liaisons. 

Liaison  of  Butter. 

This  is  merely  the  addition  of  a  certain  quantity  of  butter  at  the  last  moment  of 
cooking  the  sauce. 

Liaison  of  Butter  and  Cream. 

The  same  as  liaison  of  butter  with  the  addition  of  cream.  Beat  the  butter  and 
cream  together  and  stir  into  the  sauce. 

Liaison   of   Eggs. 

Beat  up  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  into  some  of  the  sauce  after  cooling  it,  and  then 
pour  this  in,  stirring  slowly.  Do  not  put  the  eggs  in  with  the  hot  sauce  or  they  will 
be  sure  to  curdle. 

Liaison  of  Flour. 

Sometimes  the  sauce  is  thickened  by  dredging  into  it  flour  or  arrowroot;  but  the 
better  plan  is  to  rub  a  little  till  smooth  in  water,  and  then  pour  it  into  the  sauce 
through  a  strainer. 

Liaison  of  Roux. 


J— «  J.C1.J.O  V/  1  J.  V  /  JL  iX.  V-f    L  i  .A   » 

Place  in  fryingpan  twice  as  much  butter  as  flour,  and  then  mix  together  as  the 
butter  melts,  stirring  with  a  spoon  until  the  flour  gets  red,  but  be  sure  not  to  let  it 
burn. 


504 


Sauces   for    Fish,    Game,    Meats,  Etc. 

Admiral's    Sauce. 

Add  to  one  breakfast  cupful  of  melted  butter  sauce  two  well-pounded  anchovies, 
four  shallots  chopped  very  fine,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  capers,  and  a  very  little 
thinly-pared  lemon  peel.  Put  all  these  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  let  simmer 
until  the  anchovies  are  well  incorporated.  Pick  out  the  lemon-peel;  add  the  juice  of 
one  lemon  and  a  small  quantity  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  it  into  a  sauce  tureen. 

Allemande   or   German   Sauce. 

Melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  over  a  slow  fire  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  to  thicken  it.  Stir  well  in  order  to  prevent  its  browning  ;  then  moisten  with 
one  pint  of  white  broth,  beating  all  the  time,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Beat  three 
yolks  of  eggs  separately  in  a  bowl  ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  eggs  a  very  little  at  a 
time  ;  strain  through  a  strainer,  and  finish  with  one  half  ounce  of  good  butter  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  boil  a  second  time. 

American   Sauce. 

Chop  one  fair  sized  peeled  onion  very  fine,  one  green  pepper  and  half  a  peeled 
clove,  some  garlic  ;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  three  pinches  of  red  pepper, 
together  with  half  a  wineglassful  of  good  white  wine.  This  should  be  reduced  for 
two  minutes,  and  add  about  a  gill  of  tomato  sauce,  and  a  fair-sized  peeled  tomato,  cut 
up  into  dice-shaped  pieces.  Cook  for  about  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Anchovy  Sauce. 

Take  three  or  four  filleted  anchovies,  and  beat  them  in  a  mortar  with  three 
ounces  of  butter.  Put  this  anchovy  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  a  wineglassful  of 
water,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  previously  rubbed 
down  smooth  with  water.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens,  and  then  rub  it  through 
a  coarse  hair-sieve. 

Anchovy   and   Caper  Sauce. 

Put  some  melted  butter  in  a  saucepan,  dredge  in  a  little  flour  to  thicken,  adding 
season  of  pepper  and  salt  to  taste  and  a  small  quantity  of  nutmeg,  then  pour  in 
a  little  vinegar  from  the  capers;  mix  all  well  together,  and  stir  in  a  boned  anchovy 

505 


5o6  SAUCES. 

and  a  tablespoonful  of  capers,  both  chopped   very  fine.     Set  the   saucepan  on  the 
fire,  boil  the  sauce  for  five  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Anchovy   Butter   Sauce. 

Beat  up  a  piece  of  anchovy  butter  the  size  of  a  small  egg  in  one  pint  of  good 
brown  sauce,  warm  over  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  or  more, 
according  to  taste.  This  sauce  goes  well  with  baked  fish. 

Asparagus   Sauce. 

Season  with  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt  about  half  a  teacupful  of  boiling  water,  add 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  whisk  it  by  the  side  of  a  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Add 
gradually  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  continue 
stirring  until  it  has  the  appearance  of  smooth  cream.  Add  a  small  quantity  of  lemon- 
juice,  and  serve  in  a  sauceboat.  This  is  a  very  good  sauce  to  be  served  with  cold 
slaw. 

Aurora   Sauce. 

Mix  in  a  saucepan  a  small  glassful  of  mushroom  liquor  with  half  a  pint  of  hot 
well-seasoned  bechamel  sauce,  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  red  tomato  sauce.  Place  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  stirring  well  the  while,  and 
then  add  some  whole  mushrooms  cut  in  squares,  and  serve, 

Bearnaise    Sauce. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  in  a  saucepan,  and  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  one  pinch  of  salt ;  stir  the  eggs  over  a  slow  fire  until  they  commence  to  thicken  ; 
then  remove  them  and  stir  in  two  more  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  ;  continue  stirring  at 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  dissolved.  Season  the  sauce  with  some  chopped 
fine  herbs  and  parsley,  and  pour  in  one  teaspoonful  of  French  vinegar.  The  sauce  is 
then  ready  for  serving. 

Bechamel   Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  half  of  an  onion,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  that  has  been 
worked  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  a  large  slice  of  carrot,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme  and  a  bay  leaf,  tied  together,  a  small  piece  of  mace,  a  small  quantity  each  of 
salt  and  grated  nutmeg,  and  one  pint  of  white  stock.  When  boiling  place  the  sauce- 
pan at  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  the  sauce  simmer  for  thirty  minutes,  stirring  it 
often.  When  cooked,  mix  with  the  sauce  one  half  pint  of  cream,  boil  it  up  again, 
then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  serve.  (2.)  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  each 
of  butter  and  flour  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed;  then 
pour  in  by  degrees  one  pint  of  white  stock,  and  continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until 


SAUCES.  507 

boiling.  Add  eight  or  nine  peeled  mushrooms,  put  the  lid  half  on  the  saucepan,  and 
let  the  sauce  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  skimming  off  the  butter  as  it  rises.  Strain 
the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  put  it  into  another  saucepan,  mix  in  one-half  pint 
of  cream  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  stir  it  over  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to  boil  for 
five  or  six  minutes,  then  pour  the  sauce  into  a  basin,  and  continue  stirring  until  it  is 
cold.  Mix  some  aspic  jelly  with  the  sauce  if  used  for  making  a  chaudfroid. 

Bechamel   Brown   Sauce. 

Chop  some  lean  veal,  bacon,  one  carrot,  two  small  onions  and  one  turnip.  Put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  until  they  are  nicely 
browned;  then  dredge  in  a  small  quantity  of  flour,  and  fry  that  as  well.  Moisten  the 
onions,  etc.,  with  some  broth  and  one-half  pint  of  cream  ;  add  three  cloves,  one  bay 
leaf,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme,  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  salt  and 
pepper.  When  on  the  point  of  boiling,  move  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and 
allow  it  to  stew  gently  for  an  hour.  When  strained,  the  sauce  will  be  ready  fot 
serving. 

Tout  Sauce. 


Beyi 


Pour  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chili  vinegar,  common  vinegar  and  chopped 
onions  into  a  saucepan,  add  one  and  one-fourth  pints  of  melted  butter,  one  teacupful 
of  brown  sauce  and  one-half  teacupful  each  of  mushroom  catsup  and  Worcester- 
shire sauce;  stir  the  above  ingredients  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  move  them  to 
the  side  and  let  them  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Skim  the  sauce,  place  it  over  the  fire 
again  and  boil  it  until  thick  and  creamy;  mix  with  it  a  sprinkling  of  sugar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  anchovy  sauce,  and  serve. 


Bigarade   Sauce. 


Pare  the  rinds  from  two  oranges,  cut  them  up  into  small  pieces  and  boil  in  a 
•  saucepan  of  water  for  about  five  minutes,  remove  and  drain.  Melt  a  little  butter  in 
a  saucepan,  stir  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook  until  it  browns.  Pour  in  a 
teacupful  of  broth,  add  the  juice  of  two  oranges,  a  little  sugar,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste;  put  in  the  pieces  of  rind,  boil  up  quickly,  pour  it  into  a  sauceboat,  and  serve. 


Blanquette   Sauce. 


Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  melted,  sift  in  about  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour;  stir  over  the  fire  until  well-mixed,  but  not  browned.  Mix  in 
by  degrees  sufficient  boiling  water  to  bring  the  sauce  to  the  proper  consistency,  then 
put  in  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some  cooked  button  mushrooms  and  onions,  and  pep- 
per and  salt  to  taste.  This  sauce  can  be  used  for  warming  up  cold  meats  as  a  white 
fricassee. 


508  SAUCES. 

Bordelaise   Sauce. 

Chop  fine  four  shallots,  boil  them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain  off  the  water 
and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  of  white  wine.  Boil  the  wine  for 
twenty  minutes;  then  add  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  a  small  quantity  of  chopped 
parsley  and  pepper.  Let  the  sauce  simmer  gently  by  the  edge  of  the  fire  for  twenty 
minutes  longer,  then  boil  it  up  and  serve  at  once. 

Bourgeoise   Sauce. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  each  of  blanched  and  chopped  chervil,  parsley  and  tarra- 
gon leaves  into  a  saucepan  and  mix  with  them  one  teacupful  of  stock  and  one  dessert- 
spoonful each  of  meat  glaze,  French  mustard  and  powdered  sugar;  stir  the  above  in- 
gredients over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  When  ready  to  serve  the  sauce  squeeze 
into  it  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  season  to  taste  with  a  little  each  of  salt  and  pep- 
per. This  sauce  makes  an  excellent  relish  for  cold  boiled  chicken  or  beef. 

Brittany  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  basin  one  teaspoonful  each  of  sugar  and  mustard  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  grated  horseradish;  mix  with  one-half  teacupful  of  vinegar.  This  sauce  can  be 
served  with  either  hot  or  cold  meat. 

Brown   Sauce. 

Peel  and  cut  eight  or  ten  large  onions  into  halves  and  put  them  in  the  bottom  of 
a  stewpan  with  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  put  one  pound  of  slices  of  lean  ham  on 
the  top  of  them,  then  eight  pounds  of  leg  of  beef  and  veal,  also  cut  into  slices. 
Place  the  stewpan  over  a  quick  fire  and  fry  the  contents,  keeping  the  onions  at  the 
bottom.  When  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  light  brown  glaze,  prick 
the  meat  with  a  fork,  remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  deaden  it  with  ashes,  place 
the  stewpan  again  over  it  and  let  it  stand  for  half  an  hour  longer,  stirring  twice  during- 
that  time.  Pour  into  the  stewpan  ten  quarts  of  water,  add  three  turnips,  two  carrots, 
two  blades  of  mace,  and  a  large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  When  boiling  move  the 
stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  season  the  contents  with  pepper  and  salt  and  keep  it 
simmering  gently  for  tworfhours,  skimming  off  the  fat  and  adding  a  little  cold  water 
now  and  then  to  keep  it  the  same  quantity.  Skim  the  liquor,  thicken  it  with  roux 
diluted  with  hot  water,  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin.  It  is  then 
ready  for  use. 

Black-Butter  Sauce. 

Brown  in  a  fryingpan  an  ounce  of  butter,  adding  six  parsley  leaves,  heat  again 
for  a  minute  or  so,  and  add  five  drops  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice  to  the  pan;  pour  this 
also  over,  and  serve. 


SAUCES. 


Brown-Butter  Sauce. 


509 


Place  the  desired  amount  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  warm  it  until  it  takes  a 
rich  brown  color,  but  do  not  let  it  burn.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  fish  or  joint  it  is 
served  with  and  add  a  little  vinegar  or  lemon  juice  to  the  pan,  pouring  this  over  also, 
and  serve. 

Drawn-Butter   Sauce. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  a  couple  of  ounces  of  butter,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  while  stirring;  pour  in  a  pint  of  water,  adding  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Simmer 
at  the  side  of  the  stove  for  half  an  hour  until  it  thickens,  then  add  gradually  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  beating  until  it  becomes  white,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Stir  well,  strain  through  a  hair-sieve,  and  serve. 

Butter   Sauce   with   Parsley. 

Place  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire  six  ounces  of  butter,  let  it  melt,  and  remove  from 
fire;  let  it  settle  for  five  minutes,  pouring  off  the  clear  into  another  pan,  warm  it  up, 
mix  in  a  little  salt  and  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  serve  hot  in  a  sauceboat. 

Caper  Sauce    (for  Boiled  Mutton.) 

Make  two  pints  of  melted  butter,  and  stir  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  large  capers,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of 
anchovy. 

Caper  Sauce   (for   Fish.) 

Make  one  pint  of  melted  butter,  into  which  place  a  small  piece  of  glaze,  and 
when  the  sauce  is  ready  for  serving  stir  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  choice  capers, 
salt  and  pepper  to  suit  the  taste,  also  putting  in  one  tablespoonful  of  essence  of 
anchovies. 

Cardinal    Sauce. 

Prepare  one  pint  of  melted  butter  or  butter  sauce,  and  color  it  with  pounded 
lobster  coral;  when  that  cannot  be  procured,  pound  together  the  red  part  of  a  lobster 
and  some  shrimps.  Pass  them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  season  with  salt, 
cayenne  pepper,  and  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon.  Stir  the  fish  mixture  into  the 
sauce  while  boiling,  and  when  well  mixed  it  will  be  ready  for  serving. 

Celery  Sauce. 

Wash  thoroughly,  and  pare  neatly,  and  cut  into  dice-shaped  pieces,  and  then 
wash  again  in  fresh  water,  two  or  three  roots  of  fine  celery,  using  only  the  white  parts. 
Lift  them  out  with  the  hand  so  that  the  sand  and  dirt  will  remain  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  place  them  in  a  saucepan,  and  cover  with  fresh  water,  adding  two  or  three 


5io  SAUCES. 

pinches  of  salt,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Place  the  lid  on,  and  cook  over  a  hot 
fire  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  drain,  put  in  the  saucepan  again  with  one  pint  of  hot 
German  sauce,  toss  well  for  a  short  time,  and  serve. 

Celery  Sauce   for  Boiled   Fowls. 

Wash  thoroughly  and  trim  a  head  of  celery.  Put  it  into  boiling  water,  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  it  until  it  is  tender.  Then  drain  it  through  a  colander, 
and  cut  into  pieces  one-half  inch  in  length.  Blend  a  large  tablespoonful  of  flour  with 
one-fourth  pint  of  the  broth  in  which  the  fowls  are  boiling.  Mix  till  it  is  quite 
smooth,  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  small  piece  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  mix  it  with  one-fourth  pint  of  milk.  Place  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  and  stir 
it  till  it  boils.  Let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes  and  then  throw  in  the  pieces  of  celery  ; 
when  it  is  quite  hot  again,  pour  it  into  a  sauce-tureen,  and  serve. 

Celery  Sauce   for   Game. 

Select  a  large  bunch  of  celery,  wash  it  thoroughly,  cut  it  fine  and  boil  slowly  in 
a  little  water  until  it  is  tender,  then  add  one  pinch  each  of  grated  nutmeg,  pepper, 
salt,  and  powdered  mace,  thickening  it  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour.  Boil  it  up  and  pour  it  in  the  dish.  If  desired,  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  one 
wineglassful  of  white  wine  may  be  added  to  advantage. 

Champagne   Sauce. 

Place  two  cloves,  half  a  dozen  whole  peppers  and  one-half  tablespoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  a  brimming  glassful  of  champagne.  Set  it  on  the  fire 
and  reduce  it  for  five  minutes;  then  moisten  with  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  Spanish 
sauce  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Strain  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  serve. 

Chauteaubriand   Sauce. 

Put  a  small  lump  of  meat  glaze  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  teacupful  of  white 
wine  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  melted;  then  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce 
and  let  it  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  a  maitre  d'hotel  sauce, 
and  serve  it. 

Chestnut   Sauce    for   Turkey. 

Remove  the  outer  husks  from  about  fifty  chestnuts  and  place  them  on  a  chestnut 
roaster  (which  is  a  kind  of  warming  pan  riddled  with  holes),  over  a  clear  fire,  stir- 
ring constantly  and  shaking  them  until  the  second  skin  will  come  off  easily.  Then 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine,  sufficient  good  stock  to 
cover  them,  a  good  lump  of  butter,  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  pounded  lump  sugar, 
and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  When  they  are  boiled  quite  tender,  but  still  remaining 


SAUCES.  511 

whole,  put  the  chestnuts  into  a  hot  sauce  tureen,  reduce  the  liquor  by  boiling  it  a 
minute  or  two  longer,  and  pour  it  over  them.  They  are  then  fit  to  be  served  with  the 
turkey. 

Chicken   Liver  Sauce. 

Take  two  livers,  wash  and  boil  in  salted  water  until  they  are  tender.  Drain  and 
chop  them  into  moderate-sized  pieces,  put  them  in  one  pint  of  melted  butter  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  catsup  and  pickle  vinegar,  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste; 
give  it  a  boil  up  and  it  is  ready  for  serving. 

Chili   Sauce. 

Chop  twelve  green  peppers  and  eight  large  onions  very  fine,  place  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  four  dozen  peeled  tomatoes,  sixteen  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  six 
of  salt  and  six  breakfast  cupfuls  of  vinegar.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  boil 
gently  for  an  hour.  Let  the  mixture  cool  and  pour  it  into  jars  and  cover  over;  it  is 
then  ready  for  use.  Of  course  a  smaller  quantity  can  be  made  by  simply  reducing 
the  quantity  of  the  ingredients. 

Chives   Sauce. 

Put  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  of  a  pale  golden  color;  then  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  broth  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  finely-mixed  chives  and  season  to  taste.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the 
fire  until  boiling,  keeping  it  very  smooth. 

Claremont   Sauce. 

Chop  some  onions,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  oil  and  fry 
them  until  well  cooked;  add  some  light  veal  gravy  and  boil  it,  skimming  off  the  oil 
as  it  rises.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Colbert  Sauce. 

Put  two  ounces  of  meat-glaze  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  with  one-half  teacup- 
ful  of  stock;  stir  it  until  it  has  melted,  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  the  same  stock  and 
stir  in  slowly  one  ounce  of  butter  broken  into  small  pieces.  When  on  the  point  of 
boiling,  strain  the  sauce,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or  two,  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Crab   Sauce. 

Put  three  cupfuls  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  add  two  ounces  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour;  it  should  be  stirred  in  one  direction  only.  Cut  up  the  meat  from  a  crab  and 
mix  with  a  little  mace,  cayenne  and  salt;  stir  in  the  boiled  milk  and  let  it  simmer  for 
three  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  boil. 


5i2  SAUCES. 

Crapaudine   Sauce. 

Pour  one-half  pint  of  light  piquant  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  add  four  chopped 
mushrooms  and  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard  diluted  in  two  teaspoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  and  then  serve. 

Crayfish   Sauce. 

Moisten  one-fourth  of  a  pound  each  of  flour  and  butter  with  a  little  water,  and 
the  liquor  that  any  fish  has  been  cooked  in  (having  the  fat  removed),  and  with  them 
make  a  sauce.  When  it  begins  to  thicken  while  boiling  add  three  ounces  of  fresh 
butter,  a  small  lump  of  crayfish  butter,  and  five  tablespoonfuls  of  crayfish  tails  and 
claws,  either  cut  up  in  small  dice,  or  put  in  whole. 

Cream   Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  flour  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  place  it  on  a 
slow  fire,  and  stir  lightly  with  a  spatula  for  two  minutes,  adding  one  wineglassful  of 
Madeira,  two  ounces  of  caster  sugar  and  one  teacupful  of  cream.  Stir  well  again  for 
two  minutes,  to  avoid  its  coming  to  a  boil;  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  immediately  one 
wineglassful  of  wine,  stirring  it  lightly  again.  Pour  the  cream  into  a  saucebowl,  and 
serve  immediately. 

Cream   Sauce   for   Venison. 

Pour  over  the  venison,  when  cooked,  one-half  pint  of  cream,  and  catch  it  in  a 
dish.  Strain  the  cream  into  a  saucepan,  put  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  cooked 
onion  into  it,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter  that  has  been  worked  with  a  little  flour;  stir 
the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  and  the  flour  is  cooked,  then  move  the  pan  to  the 
side  and  mix  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Stir  till  well  thickened,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil  again,  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a  sauceboat  with  the  venison. 

Cream   Sauce  with  Vinegar. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  stir 

:  it  over  the  fire  until  mixed,  but  not  browned  ;  then  pour  in  by  degrees  one-half  pint 

of  cream,  and  continue  stirring  until  thick  and  boiling.     Season  the  sauce  with  salt 

and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  ;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  or  a  sufficient  quantity 

of  vinegar  to  give  it  a  tart  flavor,  and  then  serve. 

Red   Currant   Sauce. 

Take  a  handful  of  red  currants  and  boil  in  water  for  a  few  minutes  ;  add  one 
ounce  of  butter,  four  cloves,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  one  wine- 
glassful  of  port  wine  ;  stir  until  it  boils,  and  serve  very  hot.  One  ounce  of  grocer's 
currants  are  sometimes  used  instead  of  red  currants  in  making  this  sauce. 


SAUCES.  513 

Currant    Jelly    Sauce. 

Prepare  a  breakfast  cupful  of  brown  sauce,  strain  it  well,  and  add  a  teacupful  of 
currant  jelly  made  warm ;  put  it  in  a  pan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  the  jelly  is  quite 
hot  and  well  mixed.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Red    Currant  Jelly  Sauce  for  Game. 

Brown  in  a  stewpan  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  a  finely  shaped  onion; 
then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  bay  leaf  and  sprig  of  celery,  and  stir  until  these 
also  begin  to  brown;  add  a  pint  of  good  stock  and  simmer  on  one  side  of  the  fire  for 
twenty  minutes.  Pass  the  sauce  through  a  strainer  back  into  the  pan,  skim  off  the 
fat,  add  one  teacupful  of  red  currant  jelly,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  is  melted. 
It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Curry  Sauce. 

Peel  and  slice  four  onions  and  two  apples,  place  in  a  stewpan;  add  four  ounces  of 
butter,  six  peppercorns,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  bay  leaves  and  a  blade  of  mace,  and 
brown  the  onions  over  a  moderate  fire.  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  it  in  with  the  onion  mixture;  then  add  one  quart 
of  white  stock  and  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce;  season  with  salt  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  moist  sugar  and  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  constantly;  strain  it  through 
a  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  boil  again,  skim,  and  use  when  required. 

Deviled    Sauce. 

Put  three  peeled  and  chopped  shallots  into  a  saucepan,  add  one  clove  of  garlic, 
one  bay  leaf,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  and 
coarsely  crushed  white  pepper,  one  and  one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  one-half 
pint  of  veal  broth.  When  boiling,  move  the  sauce  to  the  edge  of  the  fire,  and  let  it 
simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Skim  the  sauce,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and 
serve. 

Diplomatic  Sauce. 

Pour  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  bechamel  cream  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  mix  with 
it  a  little  of  the  liquor  in  which  some  crayfish  have  been  broiled,  and  broil  it  quickly 
for  a  few  minutes;  then  it  is  ready  for  serving. 

Duchess   Sauce. 

Cut  into  small  dice  one-half  ounce  of  cooked  ham  and  two  truffles;  place  ^hese 
in  a  saucepan  over  a  brisk  fire  with  one-half  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  let  the 
liquor  reduce  for  three  or  four  minutes.  Add  one  gill  of  good  tomato  sauce,  boil  for 
one  minute  with  one  tablespoonful  of  meat-glaze  and  add  one-half  pint  of  allemande 
sauce.  Toss  well  while  heating,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil  again,  and  serve  very  hot. 


5H  SAUCES. 

Dutch   or   Hollandaise  Sauce. 

Put  one-fourth  pint  of  vinegar  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  nutmeg  and 
a  few  coarsley-bruised  peppercorns;  boil  it  for  a  few  minutes;  then  strain  it  into  a 
larger  saucepan;  add  two  ounces  of  salt  butter  and  stir  it  until  dissolved.  Lightly  beat 
the  yolks  of  eight  or  nine  eggs,  mix  the  boiling  vinegar  lightly  in  with  them,  then 
turn  the  sauce  into  the  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  or  near  the  fire  until  thickened;  do 
not  allow  it  to  boil  again,  or  the  eggs  will  curdle  and  spoil  the  sauce.  When  thick, 
put  in  one  ounce  of  butter,  stir  it  until  well  dissolved,  then  move  it  from  the  fire;  add 
another  ounce  of  butter  in  small  pieces,  and  serve. 

D'Uxelles   Sauce. 

Reduce  one-half  pint  of  Madeira  sauce  with  one-half  wineglassful  of  white 
wine;  add  to  it  a  dozen  very  finely-chopped  mushrooms,  two  shallots  also  chopped  up 
and  browned  in  a  very  little  butter  for  five  minutes,  and  one-half  ounce  of  chopped 
cooked  beef  tongue.  Boil  again  for  five  minutes,  and  then  serve. 

East  Indian   Sauce. 

Put  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  in  a  basin  and  mash  them  until  they  are 
quite  smooth;  then  mix  in  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder;  pour  in  gradually  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  salad  oil  and  one-half  teacupful  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Continue 
stirring  the  mixture  until  it  is  quite  smooth  and  the  ingredients  are  well  incorporated; 
it  is  then  ready  for  serving.  This  sauce  is  very  nice  eaten  with  salad. 

Egg  Sauce. 

Boil  half  a  dozen  eggs  in  a  saucepan  of  water  for  six  minutes;  let  them  cool, 
remove  the  shells  and  cut  up  into  small  squares;  melt  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire;  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  and  boil  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Put  in  the  eggs  and  shake  the  pan  over  the 
fire  until  the  eggs  are  hot;  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  more  of  butter  and  shake 
again  until  it  is  melted.  Pour  the  sauce  when  ready  into  a  sauceboat,  and  serve. 


Egg  Sauce   for  Fowl. 


Melt  without  browning  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  flour  and  mix  until  smooth;  pour  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  water, 
adding  a  little  at  a  time,  and  stir  quickly  until  thick;  then  add  two  ounces  more  of 
butter  and  half  a  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper  and,  last  of  all,  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  chopped  fine.  After  removing  the  pan  from  the  fire  stir  well,  when  the 
sauce  is  ready  for  use 


SAUCES.  515 

Financiere  Sauce 

Put  one  pint  of  stock  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  brown  roux  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  boiling,  skimming  it  occasionally.  Mix  with  the  above  ingredients 
one  wineglassful  each  of  mushroom  catsup  and  Madeira,  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and 
a  small  piece  of  meat-glaze.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  the 
sauce  simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes.  Skim  the  sauce,  boil  it  up  again  and  then 
strain  it.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Financiere   Sauce  (for  Fish). 

Put  one  pint  of  lean  Spanish  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  each  of 
essence  of  mushrooms  and  truffles,  two  wineglassfuls  of  Madeira  and  a  small  piece  of 
meat-glaze.  Boil  the  mixture  and  reduce  it  until  it  will  coat  a  spoon.  Strain  it 
through  a  silk  sieve;  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Financiere  Sauce  tor  Game. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  one  and  one- 
half  breakfast  cupfuls  each  of  essence  of  game  and  truffles;  boil  until  reduced  to  half 
their  original  quantity.  Strain  the  sauce  through  a  broth  napkin;  it  will  then  be 
ready  for  serving. 

Fine  Herbs  Saiice. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  parsley  and  chopped 
onion  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  sprinkle  in  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir 
for  two  or  three  minutes  over  the  fire;  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  white  sauce  and  con- 
tinue stirring  until  it  boils.  It  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

Flemish    Sauce. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  the  red  part  of  carrot  cut  into  very  small  pieces 
into  a  saucepan  with  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
simmer  for  one  hour.  Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  they  are  well  mixed, 
then  add  a  slice  of  carrot,  one  chopped  onion,  one  blade  of  mace,  and  sixteen  or 
eighteen  peppercorns.  Stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  two,  then  pour  in 
'one  pint  of  stock,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Mix  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  cream  with  the  stock,  boil  it  up  once  more,  then  strain  it  through  a  broth 
napkin,  or  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Strain  the  cooked  carrot,  put  it  into  the  sauce,  together 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  cucumber  pickles,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  tablespoonful  grated  horseradish,  and  salt  to  suit  the  taste.  Stir  the 
sauce  well,  and  serve  it. 


5i6  SAUCES. 

Sauce  for  Crabs. 

Slightly  warm  two  or  three  ounces  of  butter,  and  beat  until  creamy  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  then  mix  with  it  one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  one  tablespoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Season  to  taste  with  a  small  quantity 
of  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thickened,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil  or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  It  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Sauce  for  Goose. 

Pour  one-half  pint  of  port  wine  into  a  small  saucepan,  and  place  it  over  the  fire 
until  very  hot  but  not  boiling  ;  then  mix  with  one  tablespoonful  of  made  mustard, 
season  to  taste  with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  it  is  ready  for  use,  and  should  be 
poured  over  the  bird  just  prior  to  serving. 

Sauce  for  Roasted  Hare  or   Rabbit. 

Pull  out  the  crumb  of  a  stale  French  roll,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  soak  it  in 
port  wine,  then  place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  beat  it  to  a 
pulp,  adding  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  then  a  small  quantity  of  red  currant  jelly,  and 
one-half  wineglassful  of  vinegar.  Boil  up  once,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Sauce  for    Loin    of   Veal. 

Put  the  minced  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  into  a  small  stewpan  with  some 
sweet  herbs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  well-washed  currants,  one  tablespoonful  of  fine 
breadcrumbs,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  two  whole  cloves,  and  a  little  beaten  cinna- 
mon. Moisten  the  ingredients  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  clear  gravy,  and  stir  the 
sauce  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Put  three  slices  of  Seville  oranges  in  it,  and  serve. 

Sauce  for  Roasted   Meats. 

Put  a  small  piece  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  chopped  parsley,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  little  salt,  and  stir  about  on  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
pour  in  one  teacupful  of  water,  and  add  a  small  quantity  of  meat-glaze.  When 
boiling,  the  sauce  is  ready  for  pouring  over  the  joints. 

Sauce   for   Cold   Salmon. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  well  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  season  with 
salt  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  pour  it  into  a  lined  stewpan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  thickened  and  on  the  point  of  boiling ;  then  move  it  to  one  side,  and  leave  the 
sauce  until  cold  ;  stir  it  occasionally.  Mix  with  it  one  wineglassful  of  vinegar,  and 
serve. 


SAUCES.  517 


Sauce  for    Suckling    Pig. 


Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil 
into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  cook  gently  until  the  onions  are  done,  but  without 
allowing  them  to  take  color;  then  add  half  a  dozen  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  wine- 
glassful  of  Madeira  or  sherry  wine,  and  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  white  sauce,  and  boil 
for  fifteen  minutes,  skimming  frequently.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  mush- 
rooms, half  that  quantity  of  parsley,  also  minced,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  salt  and 
sugar,  and  a  small  quantity  of  white  pepper.  Boil  up  once,  and  the  sauce  is  ready  for 
use. 

French    Sauce. 

With  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  and  one  pound  of  butter  prepare  some  ber- 
naise  sauce;  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  in  with  it  one  teacupful  of 
tomato  puree.  When  cooked,  dissolve  in  the  sauce  one  ounce  of  chicken  glaze,  and 
add  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  parsley  and  slightly  reduced  chili  vinegar. 
Stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve  the  sauce. 

Fricassee  Sauce. 

Stir  gradually  the  yolks  of  three  well-beaten  eggs  into  a  basin  with  one-half  pint 
of  white  sauce,  put  them  into  a  jar  and  stand  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and 
stir  it  until  the  sauce  thickens.  Just  prior  to  serving,  add  the  strained  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  after  removing  the  jar  from  the  boiling  water. 

Chaudfroid  Game  Sauce. 

Boil  one  and  a  half  pints  of  Spanish  sauce  with  three-quarters  of  a  breakfast 
cupful  of  essence  of  any  game.  When  stiffly  reduced,  mix  with  the  sauce  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  brown  aspic  jelly  cut  into  small  pieces,  stir  the  sauce  until  the  jelly  is 
dissolved,  then  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  for  serving. 

Garlic   Sauce. 

Remove  the  peel  from  some  garlic,  separate  them  into  cloves,  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  of  water  and  boil  for  five  minutes ;  change  the  water  three  times,  boiling  for 
five  minutes  in  each.  Strain  off  the  water,  add  white  sauce  to  the  cloves,  boil  up  and 
serve.  The  strength  of  the  flavor  is  determined  by  the  length  of  boiling,  as  the 
longer  it  boils  the  weaker  it  will  be.  The  garlic  if  properly  cooked  will  have  an 
almond  taste. 

Geneva   Sauce. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  add  one  dessertspoonful  of  flour, 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  brown.  Mix  with  butter  and  flour  one  pint  of  fish  broth 


5i8  SAUCES. 

and  one-half  pint  of  red  wine ;  add  two  sliced  onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Allow  the  sauce 
to  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  then  mix  with  it  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira,  strain 
the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  serve  it.  One  teaspoonful  of  brandy  may  be 
added  to  the  sauce  in  place  or  the  Madeira  if  preferred. 

Gherkin  Sauce. 

Put  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bay  leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  finely-chopped  shallots,  a 
little  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt  into  a  saucepan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  vinegar. 
Place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  contents  have  boiled  for  thirty  minutes 
add  a  breakfast  cupful  of  stock  or  good  broth.  Strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve 
and  stir  in  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  liquefied  butter  mixed  with  a  little  flour  to 
thicken  it.  Place  it  back  in  the  saucepan  and  when  it  boils  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  or 
so  of  parsley  very  finely  chopped,  two  or  three  minced  pickled  gherkins  and  a 
little  salt  if  required. 

Giblet  Sauce. 

Put  the  giblets  from  any  bird  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  stock  or  water  to 
cover  them  and  boil  for  three  hours,  adding  an  onion  and  a  few  peppercorns  while 
cooking.  Take  them  out  and  when  they  are  quite  tender,  strain  the  liquor  into  an- 
other pan  and  chop  up  the  gizzards,  livers  and  other  parts  into  small  pieces.  Take  a 
little  of  the  thickening  left  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan  in  which  a  chicken  or  goose  has 
been  braised,  and  after  the  fat  has  been  taken  off,  mix  it  with  the  giblet  liquor  and 
boil  until  it  is  dissolved.  Strain  the  sauce,  put  in  the  pieces  of  giblet,  and  serve  hot. 

Godard    Sauce. 

Put  about  half  a  pound  of  pieces  of  raw  ham  into  a  saucepan  with  an  onion  and 
a  carrot,  both  sliced,  and  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  ;  fry  them  until  lightly  browned, 
then  pour  in  one  and  one-half  pints  of  dry  champagne,  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 
Strain  the  liquor  into  a  stewpan,  and  mix  with  it  one  quart  of  Spanish  sauce  and  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  essence  of  mushrooms.  Boil  the  sauce  till  it  is  of  a  thick  creamy 
consistency,  then  strain  it  through  a  broth  napkin  into  a  bain-marie  pan.  It  is  then 
ready  for  use. 


Gooseberry    Sauce. 


Pick  one  pound  of  green  gooseberries,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient 
water  to  keep  them  from  burning ;  when  soft  mash  them,  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg  and 
sweeten  to  taste  with  moist  sugar.  This  sauce  may  be  served  with  roast  pork  or 
goose  instead  of  apple  sauce.  It  may  also  be  served  with  boiled  mackerel.  A  small 
piece  of  butter  will  make  the  sauce  more  rich. 


SAUCES. 


Green   Sauce. 


519 


Use  one  handful  each  of  any  or  of  all  the  following  green  herbs  :  Tarragon, 
chervil  or  curled  parsley,  burnet,  parsley,  and  chives  or  green  onions.  After  washing 
them  in  cold  water  put  them  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  for  two  minutes,  then 
drain,  put  them  into  cold  water  for  a  moment,  drain  again,  and  pass  them  through  a 
sieve  with  a  masher.  Mix  this  pulp  with  the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  sauce  is  made,  keep  it  very  cold  until 
required. 

Half-Glaze  Sauce 

Put  one  pint  of  clear,  concentrated  veal  gravy  in  a  saucepan,  mix  with  it  two 
wineglassfuls  of  Madeira  and  a  bu.,ich  of  sweet  herbs,  and  set  the  broth  over  the 
fire  until  boiling.  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  potato  flour  to  a  smooth  paste  with 
a  little  cold  water,  then  mix  it  in  with  the  broth  and  stir  until  thick.  Move  the 
pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  the  sauce  boil  gently  until  reduced  to  two- 
thirds  its  original  quantity.  Skim  it  well,  pass  it  through  a  silk  pieve,  and  it  is 
ready  f o :  use. 

Ham   Sauce. 

After  a  ham  is  nearly  all  used  up  pick  the  small  quantity  of  meat  still 
remaining  clean  from  the  bone,  scrape  away  the  uneatable  parts  and  trim  off  any 
rusty  bits  from  the  meat,  chop  the  bone  very  small,  and  beat  the  meat  almost 
to  a  paste.  Put  the  broken  bones  and  the  meat  together  into  a  saucepan  over  a 
slow  fire,  pour  over  them  one-fourth  pint  of  broth  and  stir  for  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour;  add  to  it  a  few  sweet  herbs,  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  one-half  pint 
of  good  beef  stock.  Cover  the  saucepan  and  stir  very  gently  till  well  flavored 
with  the  herbs,  then  strain  it.  A  little  of  this  added  to  any  gravy  is  an 
improvement. 

Hanover  Sauce. 

Place  the  boiled  liver  of  a  chicken  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it,  then  mix  with 
it  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste;  stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  until  it  is  on  the  point  of 
boiling,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  it  simmer  for  a  minute  or  two.  Serve 
while  hot. 

Horseradish  Sauce. 

Place  in  a  basin  one  tablespoonful  of  moist  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  ground 
mustard,  one  teacupful  of  grated  horseradish,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  turmeric; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  mix  the  ingredients  with  a  teacupful  of  vinegar 


.520  SAUCES. 

or  olive  oil.     When  quite  smooth  turn  the  sauce  into  a  sauceboat,  and   it  is  quite 
ready  to  be  served. 

Italien  Sauce. 

Put  a  large  lump  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  shallots,  and  one  pint 
of  white  wine.  Boil  until  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity.  Mix  with  the 
above  ingredients  one  breakfast  cupful  of  veloute  sauce  and  one-half  breakfast 
cupful  of  stock;  boil  quickly  over  the  fire  until  thick.  Skim  the  sauce  and 
keep  it  warm  in  a  bain-marie  until  ready  to  serve. 

Jardiniere    Sauce0 

Cut  three  peeled  carrots  into  slices  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  with  a 
small  long  and  round  vegetable-cutter,  cut  each  slice  into  as  many  pieces  as  possible. 
Prepare  some  turnips  in  the  same  way,  put  them  with  the  carrots  into  a  saucepan 
with  twenty  peeled  button  onions,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  fry  over  a  moderate  fire  for  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes;  then  pour  in  one 
and  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  broth  and  let  it  simmer  gently  at  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  the  vegetables  are  tender;  then  boil  it  up  to  reduce  the  moisture  a  little  and 
skim  off  all  the  fat.  Pour  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  into  another  sauce- 
pan with  one  and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  broth  and  boil  it  quickly  until  thick  and 
creamy;  then  put  in  with  it  some  pieces  of  cauliflower,  seven  or  eight  heads  of  as- 
paragus, two  tablespoonfuls  of  green  peas,  one  tablespoonful  of  string  beans  and  the 
prepared  vegetables,  and  let  all  boil  gently  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Season 
with  a  small  quantity  each  of  salt  and  sugar,  move  it  off  fhe  fire,  put  in  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  stir  it  until  it  is  dissolved.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  serv- 
ing. A  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  bay  leaf  will  improve  the  flavor. 

Kidney   Sauce. 

Cut  four  small  or  one  large  beef  kidney  into  slices,  dust  with  flour  and  put  them 
into  a  fryingpan  with  three  ounces  of  butter,  a  few  sweet  herbs  and  half  an  onion  cut 
up  small.  Toss  the  pan  gently  over  a  moderate  fire  for  eight  minutes,  add  one  pint 
of  water  and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours,  skimming  frequently.  Pass  it  through  a 
fine  sieve  or  strainer,  and  serve. 

Lemon    Sauce    for   Boiled   Fowls. 

Peel  a  large  lemon,  cut  it  in  slices,  pick  out  all  the  pips  and  cut  each  slice  into 
small  pieces.  Boil  a  fowl's  liver,  then  chop  and  add  it  to  the  lemon,  pour  one-half 
pint  of  hot  melted  butter  over,  and  serve  it  in  a  sauceboat  with  the  fowl. 


SAUCES.  521 

Lemon   Sauce  for   Fish. 

Squeeze  and  strain  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon  into  a  lined  saucepan,  put  in  with 
it  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  and  pepper,  and  salt  to  taste.  Beat  it  over  the  fire  until 
thick  and  hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  When  done  mix  with  the  sauce  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs.  It  is  then  ready  to  be  served. 

Lobster  Sauce. 

Remove  the  meat  from  a  large  lobster  and  cut  it  into  one-fourth  inch  dice.  Put 
the  inner  shells  and  scraggy  parts  into  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  cold  water  and 
boil  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Strain  and  use  the  water  in  making  one  pint  of 
drawn  butter  sauce.  Add  the  lobster,  the  dried  and  powdered  coral,  a  little  cayenne 
pepper  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice. 

Madeira   Sauce. 

Mix  together  one  small  glassful  of  mushroom  liquor  and  a  pint  of  Espagnole 
sauce  and  a  small  glass  of  Madeira  wine;  add  a  bouquet  garnished  and  a  small  tea- 
spoonful  of  red  pepper,  carefully  remove  all  fat  and  cook  for  half  an  hour,  which  will 
leave  the  sauce  in  rather  a  liquid  consistency,  when  it  should  be  strained  and  is 
ready  for  use  when  needed. 

Maintenon  Sauce. 

Chop  fine  a  slice  of  lean  ham  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a  sprig  of  pars- 
ley, two  mushrooms  and  two  shallots,  all  finely  chopped,  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  two  lumps  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes.  Mix  well  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  a  small  quantity  of  water, 
then  stir  in  with  it  gradually  one-half  pint  of  stock  and  mix  it  in  with  the  other  in- 
gredients in  the  saucepan;  season  it  to  taste  and  continue  stirring  the  sauce  over  the 
fire  for  twenty  minutes.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  thicken  the 
sauce  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs.  When  thick  the  sauce  is  ready  for  serving. 

Maitre  cT  Hotel  Sauce. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  little  finely-mixed  thyme  and  onion,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Stand  the  saucepan  by  the  fire,  and  whisk  the  contents  with  an  egg  whisk  until  on  the 
point  of  simmering ;  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  serve  the  sauce. 

Marshal's  Sauce. 

Pour  one  teacupful  of  green  tarragon  into  a  saucepan  with  one  teacupful  of  white 
vinegar,  a  lump  of  sugar,  and  one-half  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  quickly  until  the 


522  SAUCES. 

vinegar  has  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity;  then  pour  in  one  teacupful  of  turned 
sauce  that  has  been  stiffly  reduced,  and  boil  it  up  once ;  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  beaten  with  a  little  milk  or  cream.  Continue  stirring  the  sauce  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  thick,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair- 
sieve,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  mix  with  it  one-fourth  pound  butter,  and  work  it  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  it  has  dissolved  Serve  the  sauce  while  it  is  hot. 

Matelote    Sauce. 

Put  some  slices  of  onion  into  a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and  fry  them 
until  browned;  then  remove  them,  leaving  the  butter  in  the  stewpan.  Pour  in  with 
the  butter  one  and  one- half  pints  of  wine  and  stock,  mixed  in  equal  quantities  (either 
red  or  white  wine  can  be  used),  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Boil  the 
sauce  until  it  is  reduced  to  one-third  its  original  quantity,  then  put  in  some  cooked 
mushrooms,  and  the  onions,  and  serve  it. 

Sauce   Mayonnaise. 

Place  in  an  earthen  bowl  a  couple  of  fresh  egg-yolks  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
ground  English  mustard,  half  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  red  pepper,  and 
stir  well  for  about  three  minutes  without  stopping,  then  pour  in,  drop  at  a  time,  one 
and  a  half  cupfuls  of  the  best  olive  oil,  and  should  it  become  too  thick,  add  a  little 
at  a  time,  some  good  vinegar,  stirring  constantly. 

Milanese  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  chopped  mushrooms,  one  or  two  washed  and,  boned 
anchovies  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  browned;  then 
sift  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  that  also  for  a  few  minutes  until  nicely 
colored;  pour  in  one-half  pint  of  stock  and  one-half  wineglassful  each  of  caper  vine- 
gar and  marsala,  and  keep  stirring  them  until  boiling,  then  add  a  small  quantity  of 
mixed  mustard,  a  little  salt  and  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  Let  the  sauce 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  then  strain  and  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  capers.  After  five  minutes'  boiling,  the  sauce  will  be  ready  for 
serving. 

Mint   Sauce. 

Chop  fine  some  fresh  well-washed  mint  leaves,  put  them  immediately  into  a  sauce 
tureen,  pour  just  enough  vinegar  to  float  the  chopped  leaves,  add  enough  sugar  to 
sweeten  the  vinegar,  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  fifteen  minutes. 

(2)  Pour  one-half  pint  of  vinegar  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  ounce  of 
brown  sugar  and  reduce  it  Add  one  pint  of  water;  boil  for  one  minute  only,  mix  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  very  finely-minced  mint,  and  serve. 


SAUCES. 


523 


Sauce  Montglas. 


Cut  one  ounce  of  cooked  smoked  beef  tongue  into  small  julienne-shaped 
pieces,  one  ounce  of  cooked  chicken,  a  couple  of  truffles  and  four  mushrooms,  all  of 
which  place  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine,  put  the  pan 
over  a  brisk  fire  and  reduce  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce 
and  one  gill  of  good  tomato  sauce,  cook  for  another  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

Mushroom    Sauce. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms  in  a  saucepan  with  three  shallots, 
chopped,  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley.  Pour  in  enough  gravy  stock  to  cover  the 
mushrooms,  season  and  let  stew  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  couple  of  hours.  At  the 
end  of  that  time,  strain  through  a  sieve.  Mix  some  butter  and  flour  and  pour  it  in 
the  sauce. 

Mushroom    Brown   Sauce. 

Pare  and  chop  off  the  roots  of  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  put  in  a  saucepan 
with  two  cupfuls  of  brown  gravy  and  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Cook  for  thirty  minutes;  remove  the  lemon  peel,  and  add  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon 

Mushroom   White   Sauce. 

Chop  off  the  stems,  peel  and  wash  half  a  pound  of  mushrooms,  cut  in  half,  and 
put  in  a  pan  with  a  pint  of  water.  Add  half  a  blade  of  beaten  mace,  a  little  lemon- 
peel  and  grated  nutmeg,  cover  over  the  pan  and  stew  for  thirty  minutes.  Beat  up 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  a  little  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Stir  the  mushrooms  until  it  is  quite  smooth,  pour  in  the 
cream  mixture  and  stir  until  the  whole  boils.  Take  out  the  lemon  peel,  and  add 
half  a  lemon. 

Muskateer   Sauce. 

Place  one  shallot,  some  tarragon,  cress  and  chervil  leaves  in  a  mortar,  and 
pound  them.  Mix  with  the  pounded  leaves  one  dessertspoonful  of  meat  glaze,  one 
teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Pass  the  sauce  mixture  through  a  broth  napkin,  mix  with  it  one-half  teacupful 
of  olive  oil,  and  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  serve. 

Mussel   Sauce. 

Open  the  required  quantity  of  mussels,  remove  the  dark  spots  found  in  the  body 
parts,  wash  them  well,  and  stew  in  water  for  about  half  an  hour,  seasoning  with  a  blade 
of  mace.  Strain  the  liquor,  return  the  mussels  to  it,  bring  it  gently  to  a  boil,  remove 


524  SAUCES. 

from  the  fire,  thicken  with  a  liaison  of  flour  and  butter,  add  a  small  quantity  each  of 
cream  and  milk,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Mustard   Sauce. 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  warm  without  browning 
it.  Mix  in  well  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  pour  in  gradually  one  pint  of  hot  stock 
or  water,  and  stir  until  it  thickens  and  is  perfectly  smooth.  Add  two  ounces  more  of 
butter  in  small  pieces,  stir  well  and  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  made  English  mustard  and  a  little  cayenne  and  it  is  ready  for 
use. 

Piquant   Mustard   Sauce. 

Peel  and  slice  an  onion,  put  it  in  a  saucepan,  add  two  or  three  thinly-sliced  cloves 
of  garlic,  two  bay  leaves,  one  teaspoonful  of  crushed  peppercorns,  a  few  cloves,  a 
little  tarragon  and  a  pint  of  the  best  vinegar;  season  with  salt  and  boil  the  whole  to- 
gether for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Leave  the  vinegar  until  cold,  keeping  the  lid  on 
the  saucepan;  then  stir  in  sufficient  mustard  to  make  a  stiff  paste  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  small  jars,  which  should  be  tightly  corked  and  tied  down  with  paper.  Mus- 
tard prepared  in  this  way  may  be  kept  for  some  time. 

Neapolitan   Sauce. 

Reduce  in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  raw  mirepoix  with  one-half  ounce  of 
butter;  after  five  minutes  moisten  it  with  one-half  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  one-half  pint 
of  Spanish  sauce,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
essence  of  game.  Reduce  for  ten  minutes  and  rub  through  a  sieve. 

Nonpareil  Sauce. 

Chop  a  slice  of  boiled  ham,  an  equal  quantity  of  breast  of  cooked  chicken,  a 
pickled  cucumber,  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  one  anchovy  freed  from  skin  and 
bone,  the  head  of  a  shallot  and  a  little  parsley.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  some 
catsup  and  boil  all  together  for  a  few  minutes.  Serve  with  either  meat  or  fish. 

Normandy   Sauce. 

To  one  pint  of  veloute  sauce  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup. 
Reduce  the  sauce  for  ten  minutes,  and  place  it  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fish  stock. 
Let  it  just  come  to  the  boil  again,  then  add  two  yolks  of  eggs  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon.  Strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  stir  in  one-half  ounce  of  fresh  butter. 
This  sauce  should  be  stiff. 


SAUCES.  525 

Olive  Sauce. 

Place  some  olives  in  a  basin  of  water,  and  let  them  remain  for  thirty  minutes. 
Have  a  small  slice  of  onion  in  a  saucepan  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  and 
as  soon  as  the  onion  commences  to  color  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir 
until  it  is  smooth.  Pour  in  a  pint  of  rich  stock,  and  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of 
the  fire  where  the  stock  can  simmer  gently.  Remove  the  stones  from  the  olives,  add 
them  to  the  sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  twenty  minutes 
longer.  Skim  it  well,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  If 
a  thin  sauce  is  desired,  the  flour  may  be  reduced. 

Onion    Sauce. 

Peel  the  required  number  of  onions,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of  cold  water. 
When  the  water  boils  pour  it  off,  and  add  more  boiling  water  so  as  to  take  the 
strength  out  of  the  onions.  Repeat  this  two  or  three  times  more,  and  the  onions  will 
be  quite  mild.  Chop  them  up,  but  not  too  small,  and  mix  them  with  melted  butter, 
or  pound  the  onions  to  a  pulp,  mix  them  with  a  little  cream  sauce,  and  they  are 
ready  to  use.  Onion  sauce  is  used  generally  for  roasted  or  boiled  shoulder  of 
mutton,  tripe,  ducks  or  rabbits. 

Onion  Sauce   for  Boiled   Fowl. 

Peel  and  slice  one  pint  of  onions;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire  with 
enough  milk  to  cover  and  stew  until  tender;  then  beat  them  to  a  pulp  with  a  fork; 
add  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  white  pepper,  sufficient  milk  to  form  a  sauce  of  the  con- 
sistency of  cream,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

Onion   Sauce  with   Vinegar. 

Peel  three  good-sized  onions,  mince  them  fine,  place  them  over  the  fire  with  a 
lump  of  butter  and  fry  over  a  brisk  fire  until  brown.  Sift  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
over  the  onions,  pour  in  two  gills  of  water  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  mustard 
and  vinegar  to  taste.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  and  boil  until  quite  smooth.  It  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

Oyster   Sauce. 

Partially  boil  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  then  strain  and  beard  them,  reserv- 
ing the  liquor.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
stir  over  the  fire  until  mixed,  then  pour  in  the  oyster  liquor  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Add  as  much  milk  as  will  be  required  to  make  the  sauce,  also  a  blade  of  mace  and  a 
bay  leaf  tied  together,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  add  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne 


526  SAUCES. 

pepper.  •  Boil  the  sauce  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  oysters.     When  they  are 
quite  hot  remove  the  mace  and  bay  leaf,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve. 

Oyster  Sauce  for  Boiled  Poultry. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  a  small  quantity  of  flour  with  an  equal  amount 
of  butter  and  stir  together  until  it  bubbles,  then  gradually  mix  in  the  liquor  from  the 
oysters  and  enough  broth  from  the  poultry  to  make  a  sauce  of  the  consistency  of 
cream  Season  with  salt  and  white  pepper  and  let  it  boil  for  a  moment,  then  put  the 
saucepan  containing  the  sauce  into  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  place  it  on  the  back  of  the 
fire  to  keep  hot  until  wanted.  Put  in  the  oysters  and  boil  them  once  more.  In  the 
meantime  dish  the  poultry,  pour  a  little  of  the  oyster  sauce  over  it,  and  serve  the 
remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  boat. 

Oyster   Plant  Sauce. 

Scrape  some  roots  of  oyster  plant  and  put  them  in  acidulated  water.  Put  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  stir  in 
gradually  one  pint  of  water.  Continue  stirring  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  put 
in  the  oyster  plant  and  let  simmer  gently  until  tender.  When  cooked  strain  the 
roots,  put  them  in  a  sauceboat  with  some  butter  sauce,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Palestine   Sauce  Bourgeoise. 

Peel  and  cut  a  dozen  Jerusalem  artichokes  into  round  balls,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  with  a  little  butter  and  sugar  until  well  covered. 
Mix  with  the  artichokes  one-half  tablespoonful  of  flour,  then  stir  in  slowly  three 
teacupfuls  of  white  sauce.  Boil  the  artichokes  very  gently  until  quite  tender,  season 
the  sauce  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  thicken  it  with  a  liaison  of  eggs,  and  stir 
it  briskly  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  but  do  not  boil  it  again.  It  is  then  ready  for 
serving. 

Papillote  Sauce. 

Chop  fine  two  onions,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  one-half  ounce  of  scraped 
fat  of  bacon,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes ;  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  brown 
sauce.  When  boiling  put  in  with  the  sauce  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and 
mushrooms,  a  small  quantity  of  scraped  garlic,  a  lump  of  sugar,  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Stir  the  sauce  and  boil  it  till  reduced  to  a  creamy  thick- 
ness ;  then  take  it  off  the  fire  and  leave  it  till  cold.  This  sauce  is  generally  used  for 
cutlets  Maintenon. 


Parsley   and   Butter   Sauce. 


Put  two  ounces   of  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  melt  it ;  then   stir   in   two   table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  mixing  it  well  over  the  fire,  but   not  letting  it  brown  at  all.     Pour 


SAUCES.  527 

in  gradually  a  pint  of  boiling  water  or  white  stock,  and  continue  stirring  until  it 
thickens ;  then  put  in  two  ounces  more  butter,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely 
chopped  parsley,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  butter  has  dis- 
solved the  sauce  is  ready  for  serving. 

Parsley   and   Lemon   Sauce. 

Squeeze  the  juice  out  of  a  lemon,  remove  the  pips,  and  mince  fine  the  pulp 
and  rind.  Wash  a  good  handful  of  parsley,  shake  it  as  dry  as  possible,  and  chop  it, 
throwing  away  all  the  stalks.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour 
in  the  stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed ;  then  put  in  the  parsley  and 
minced  lemon,  and  pour  in  as  much  clear  stock  as  will  be  required  to  make  the  sauce. 
Season  with  a  small  quantity  of  pounded  mace,  and  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  stock, 
and  move  the  sauce  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  when  it  has  cooled  a  little,  stir  in  the 
eggs.  Stir  the  sauce  for  two  minutes  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  it  will  be  ready  for 
serving. 

Perigueux   Sauce. 

Peel  and  chop  four  truffles,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  one  wineglassful  of 
sherry  and  boil  for  a  minute;  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  half-glaze,  add  a  little  salt  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  till  boiling,  then  serve  it. 

(2)  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  one-half  pints  of  thin  Spanish  sauce,  one-half 
pint  each  of  essence  of  mushrooms  and  essence  of  truffles.  Boil  the  sauce  till 
thickly  reduced,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  mix  with  it  about  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  truffles  that  have  been  cooked  in  a  little  Madeira,  and  serve. 

Piquant    Sauce. 

Prepare  some  melted  butter,  flavor  it  to  taste  with  tarragon,  or  malt  vinegar,  a 
little  pepper  and  mustard  if  liked.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  till  cooked,  then  move 
it  to  the  side,  thicken  it  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  serve. 

(2)  Chop  very  fine  three  mushrooms,  one  shallot  and  a  small  carrot.  Melt 
one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  above  ingredients  and  fry  them  till 
nicely  browned;  then  stir  in  two  tablespoonsfuls  of  flour  and  one-half  pint  of  rich 
brown  stock,  add  a  bay  leaf,  one  or  two  sprigs  of  thyme  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
Harvey's  sauce,  and  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  till  boiling,  then  cook  over  a  slow  fire 
for  twenty  minutes.  Stir  in  one-half  teacupful  of  vinegar  and  season  to  taste  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Strain  the  sauce  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Red    Piquant  Sauce  (Spanish). 

Soften  two  or  three  red  capsicums  for  a  little  less  than  a  minute  in  boiling  water, 
dry  them,  put  them  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  garlic  and  pound  them  to  a  paste.  Add 


528  SAUCES. 

a  little  water,  then  turn  it  into  a  saucepan  containing  one  breakfast  cupful  of  boiling 
oil  and  season  with  salt  and  vinegar.  Fish  should  be  cooked  in  this  sauce  and  served 
with  it  poured  over  them. 

Poivrade  Sauce. 

Put  in  a  stewpan  half  a  dozen  scallions,  a  little  thyme,  a  good  bunch  of  parsley, 
two  bay  leaves,  a  dessertspoonful  of  white  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and 
two  ounces  of  butter,  and  let  all  stew  together  till  nearly  all  the  liquor  has  evapo- 
rated; then  add  one  teacupful  of  stock  and  two  teacupfuls  of  Spanish  sauce.  Boil 
this  till  it  is  reduced  one-half,  and  serve. 

Polish   Sauce. 

Peel  and  cut  some  turnips  into  small  balls  or  olives,  and  boil  them  till  tender  in 
salted  water  with  the  addition  of  a  little  sugar.  Put  one  tablespoonful  each  of  butter 
and  flour  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  well-mixed  but  not  browned; 
then  pour  in  one  pint  of  liquor  in  which  some  fish  has  been  boiled,  and  boil  it  quickly 
over  the  fire  till  somewhat  reduced.  Boil  a  pint  of  cream,  stirring  it  constantly  while 
boiling,  and  mix  it  with  the  sauce;  drain  the  turnips,  add  them,  and  season  to  taste. 
Serve  the  sauce  while  hot. 


Pompadour    Sauce. 


Put  some  chopped  shallots  and  mushrooms  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  butter, 
and  sweat  them  for  a  few  minutes  on  the  fire;  then  put  in  one  and  one-half  teacupfuls 
of  turned  sauce  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  and  cook  over  a  slow  fire  for  three- 
fourths  of  an  hour,  keeping  it  well  skimmed.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  the  beaten 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  one-half  teacupful  of  cream,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir 
the  whole  till  quite  hot  and  well  mixed.  Blanch  and  chop  fine  a  little  parsley,  mix 
it  with  the  sauce,  squeeze  in  a  little  lemon  juice,  and  serve.  The  lemon  juice  may  be 
omitted  if  it  is  not  relished. 

Portuguese  Sauce. 

This  sauce  should  be  made  a  minute  or  two  before  it  is  ready  to  be  served,  for  if 
permitted  to  cool  it  will  be  spoiled.  Put  five  or  six  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan  with  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  pinch 
of  coarse  pepper,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Remove 
the  sauce  from  the  fire,  and  keep  on  stirring  it  until  thick.  It  is  then  ready  for 
serving. 

Port    Wine   Sauce. 

( i ).  Pour  one  gill  of  port  wine  into  an  earthenware  jar,  adding  half  a  wineglass- 
ful  of  melted  red  currant  jelly,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice, 


SAUCES. 


529 


together  with  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne,  and  a  teacupful  of  thick  brown  stock,  or 
the  same  quantity  of  the  drippings  from  meat,  skimmed  of  all  fat;  then  place  the  jar 
in  a  saucepan  of  water  over  the  fire,  and  boil;  when  done,  place  it  in  a  sauceboat,  and 
serve. 

(2).  Prepare  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  sauce,  and  incorporate  with  it  a  wine- 
glassful  of  port  wine,  sweeten  to  the  taste  with  powdered  sugar,  and  boil  gently  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  it  occasionally. 

Poulette   Sauce. 

Put  one  ounce  of  flour  and  a  trifle  more  than  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes;  then  pour  in  gradually  one  pint  of 
broth  and  keep  on  stirring  for  fifteen  minutes.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  a  liaison  of 
yolks  of  eggs  and  a  small  lump  of  butter,  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  season  to 
suit  the  taste,  and  serve. 

Princess  Sauce. 

Put  eighteen  chicken  quenelles,  two  truffles  cut  into  slices  and  one  blanched 
chicken  liver  cut  into  dice  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  with  one  wineglassful  of 
white  wine  and  permit  it  to  reduce  for  three  or  four  minutes;  then  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  meat-glaze,  let  it  come  to  a  boil  and  add  one  pint  of  good  allemande 
sauce.  Toss  well  together,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  cook,  and  serve  it  very  hot. 

Provincial    Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  finely-chopped  shallots  and  mush- 
rooms, two  cloves  of  garlic  cut  into  halves,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  one-half  tea- 
cupful  of  salad  oil;  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt  and  stir  the  whole  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes;  then  pour  in  by  degrees  in  equal  quantities  some  broth  and 
white  wine.  When  boiling  move  the  saucepan  to  the  edge  of  the  fire  and  let  the  con- 
tents simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Remove  the  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  serve 
the  sauce. 

Prussian    Sauce. 

Mix  together  in  a  saucepan  a  scant  pint  of  hot  bechamel  sauce,  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  red  pepper,  about  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
horseradish  well  grated,  and  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of  raw  cream,  and  let  it  boil  for 
four  or  five  minutes,  stirring  the  while,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Queen's    Sauce. 

Put  one  pint  of  rich  gravy  into  a  saucepan  with  a  quantity  of  breadcrumbs  and 
let  them  simmer  until  quite  thick.  Chop  the  meat  from  the  breast  of  a  cold  fowl, 


530  SAUCES. 

and  pound  it  with  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  a  few  sweet  almonds.  Add 
the  pounded  mixture  to  the  sauce,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  it  until  hot 
without  permitting  it  to  boil.  It  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Ravigote. 

The  literal  meaning  of  this  French  term  is  "pick  me  up,"  from  the  verb  ravigoter 
— to  cheer  and  strengthen.  It  is  applied  to  a  mixture  of  tarragon,  chervil,  chives  and 
burnet  minced  very  fine,  or  used  as  a  faggot.  Minced  ravigote  is  a  favorite  garnish 
for  salads  and  is  then  served  on  a  saucer  by  itself,  each  herb  being  kept  separate  by 
itself,  the  whole  constituting,  therefore,  four  little  heaps  so  that  each  may  be  used  at 
discretion. 

Ravigote  butter  is  made  by  kneading  up  some  butter  with  the  chopped  ravigote, 
pepper,  salt  and  lemon  juice. 

Ravigote  sauce  is  English  "'melted  butter,"  or  butter  sauce  with  which  chopped 
ravigote  has  been  mixed. 

Ravigote  Sauce. 

Pour  one-half  pint  of  stock  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  white  wine; 
chop  fine  some  herbs,  such  as  chervil,  tarragon,  chives,  and  parsley,  or  whatever 
are  in  season,  making  about  three  tablespoonfuls  in  all  and  mix  them  well  with  the 
stock;  season  with  a  small  quantity  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  them  gently 
twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter,  then  stir  this  into  the  sauce,  and  continue  stirring  them  by  the  edge  of 
the  fire  until  thick.  Squeeze  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  into  the  sauce,  and 
serve  it. 

Regency   Sauce. 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  raw  lean  ham  into  slices,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan,  with 
two  shallots,  two  onions,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  butter,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  without  browning;  then  add  a  pint  of  essence  of  chicken 
and  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce;  boil  until  of  a  thick,  creamy  consistence;  strain 
through  a  napkin,  and  serve  when  desired. 

Remoulade   Sauce. 

Mix  together  in  a  basin  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  chopped  anchovies  that  have 
been  preserved  in  oil  and  capers,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one 
teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Mix  the  above  ingredients 
with  salad  oil  and  a  few  drops  of  malt  vinegar ;  one  pinch  of  scraped  garlic  may  be 
added  if  desired.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 


SAUCES.  531 

Robert   Sauce. 

Chop  a  peeled  onion  into  one-fourth  inch  dice,  and  fry  these  in  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter  until  browned;  then  add  a  teacupful  of  vinegar,  and  boil  swiftly  until  the 
liquid  has  nearly  evaporated.  Then  stir  in  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  any 
cold  brown  gravy,  or  stir  in  first  one  tablespoonful  of  dry  flour,  and  let  it  brown,  and 
then  mix  in  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  water.  Season  the  sauce 
highly  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer  it  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Just  prior  to 
using  it,  stir  in  one  dessertspoonful  of  mustard. 

Royal   Sauce. 

Put  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  the  yolks  of  three  fresh  eggs  into  a  sauce- 
pan and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  the  yolks  commence  to  thicken,  but  do  not  allow 
them  to  cook  hard.  Take  the  sauce  off  the  fire  and  stir  in  by  degrees  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  soy,  one  finely-chopped 
green  gherkin,  one  small  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  salt.  When 
well  incorporated  keep  the  sauce  in  a  cool  place.  When  cold  serve  with  fish. 

Salmi   Sauce. 

Mix  together  in  a  small  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  each  of  flour  and  butter  and 
stir  it  well  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned;  then  pour  in  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of 
white  wine  and  an  equal  quantity  of  broth,  add  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped 
shallots  and  carrots,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  lump  of  sugar,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil  the  above  ingredients  until  reduced  to  about  half  their 
original  quantity,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  then  mix  in  the  meats,  etc.,  prepared  for 
the  hash. 

Shallot  Sauce. 

(i.)  Peel  and  slice  about  a  dozen  shallots,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one 
bay  leaf  and  a  small  quantity  of  thyme  and  parsley  tied  together  and  a  little  more 
than  one  teacupful  of  broth.  Boil  the  liquor  until  it  has  reduced  to  a  glaze,  then 
pour  in  one  and  one-half  pints  of  clear  meat  gravy  and  leave  it  over  the  fire  until 
boiling;  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  it  remain  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  Strain 
the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  serve  it. 

(2.)  For  Mutton — Chop  fine  a  dozen  or  so  of  shallots,  season  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  one-half  pint  of  gravy  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  and  boil  for  about  twenty  minutes. 


Shrimp    Sauce. 


Pour  one  pint  of  white  poivrade  sauce  and  butter  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil 
until  somewhat  reduced.     Thicken  the  sauce  with  two  ounces  of  lobster  butter.    Pick 


532  SAUCES. 

one  and  one-half  pints  of  shrimps,  put  them  into  the  sauce  with  a  small  quantity  of 
lemon-juice,  stir  the  sauce  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve  it. 

(2)  Make  about  one-half  pint  of  butter  sauce,  and  while  it  is  in  the  saucepan 
mix  in  about  one  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a 
small  lump  of  lobster  butter,  and  one-half  saltspoonful  of  cayenne.  Stir  the  sauce 
over  the  fire  until  the  butter  has  dissolved,  then  put  in  one  teacupful  of  picked 
shrimps.  Serve  the  sauce  while  hot. 

Sicilian    Sauce. 

Place  in  a  mortar  half  a  tablespoonful  of  coriander  seeds  and  four  cloves;  bruise 
them  well,  then  put  in  a  saucepan  one  and  a  half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  gravy,  and  one 
cupful  of  essence  of  ham,  together  with  the  thinly  shredded  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
the  bruised  seeds  of  the  cloves;  when  it  is  boiling,  add  two  bay  leaves,  two  garlic 
cloves,  and  a  head  of  celery  sliced.  Boil  until  reduced  to  half  its  quantity,  and  then 
add  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine;  strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  work  in  well  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  similar  quantity  of  flour,  and  put  all  back  in  the  sauce- 
pan, stirring  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  thick.  It  should  be  served  while  hot  with 
roast  fowl  or  meat. 

Sorrel    Sauce. 

Mix  together  one-half  pint  of  green  gooseberries  well  scalded,  a  little  sugar,  a 
glass  of  white  wine,  one-fourth  of  a  pint  of  sorrel  sauce,  and  one  ounce  of  butter. 
Boil  all  together,  and  serve. 

Soubise   Sauce. 

Peel  three  .large  onions,  cut  them  into  slices,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece 
of  butter,  fry  them,  but  not  to  color.  Mix  with  the  onions  one-half  pint  of  veal 
gravy,  and  boil  until  tender.  Skim  the  sauce,  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  it 
with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  mix  in  one  tablespoonful  of  hot  cream,  and  serve. 


Spanish   Sauce,   Espagnole. 


Prepare  a  brown  roux  in  a  saucepan  with  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  and  four 
teaspoonfuls  of  flour,  by  stirring  it  over  the  fire  in  one  direction  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  colored';  then  leave  it  in  the  saucepan  until  thoroughly  colored.  Pour  in  with 
the  roux  one  pint  of,  good  broth,  stirring  it  gently  at  the  same  time  until  smooth. 
Let  the  sauce  simmer  slowly  for  about  an  hour,  skimming  it  often  to  clear  it,  then 
boil  it  briskly  over  the  fire  until  reduced  a  little,  and  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve. 
Stir  the  sauce  in  a  basin  until  nearly  cold,  then  put  in  a  small  lump  of  butter. 


SAUCES.  533 

Supreme   Sauce. 

Mix  with  one  pint  of  white  sauce  three  shopped  mushrooms,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  one  ounce  of  butter;  stir  over  the  fire  while  boiling  for  ten  minutes. 
Strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  use  it  when  required. 

Tarragon  Sauce. 

Put  a  few  branches  of  green  tarragon  and  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  vinegar 
into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  for  about  ten  minutes;  then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
veloute  sauce,  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  thicken.  Pass  the  liquor  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve  or  cloth  into  a  basin,  add  a  few  leaves  of  tarragon,  blanch  them,  and  cut 
them  up  rather  small.  Flavor  with  lemon  juice,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  use  and  should  accompany  boiled  fowl. 

Tartare    Sauce. 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  teacupful  of  oil,  and  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  vinegar;  when  well  beaten,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  mustard,  one  teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  capers,  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  cucum- 
ber pickles,  the  juice  of  an  onion,  and  one-half  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  This  sauce 
can  be  used  with  meats  served  in  jelly,  also  fried  and  broiled  meats  and  fish. 

Tomato   Sauce. 

Cut  one  dozen  tomatoes  in  halves,  squeeze  out  the  seeds  and  water,  put  the  to- 
matoes into  a  saucepan  and  add  a  bunch  of  herbs,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  water;  cover  the  saucepan,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  boil  the  con- 
tents for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  stirring  it  often.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter 
and  one-half  ounce  of  flour  into  a  saucepan,  stir  well  over  the  fire  for  about  three 
minutes,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  add  the  pulp  from  the  tomatoes  passed 
through  a  sieve.  The  pulp  should  be  added  a  little  at  a  time  and  thoroughly  stirred 
in.  Pour  over  one  breakfast  cupful  of  rich  broth  and  boil  it  for  twenty  minutes.  If 
the  sauce  should  be  too  thick,  a  little  more  broth  may  be  added;  it  is  then  ready  for 
use.  If  canned  tomatoes  are  used,  they  must  be  mixed  with  the  butter  and  flour  in 
the  same  way  as  the  tomato  pulp. 

Toulouse   Sauce. 

Prepare  some  rather  thick  Allemande  sauce,  then  mix  with  it  a  garnishing  of 
cockscombs,  fat  livers,  kidneys,  mushrooms  and  small  quenelles,  etc.  Stir  the  sauce 
until  well-mixed,  then  serve  it  while  hot. 


534  SAUCES. 

Truffle   Sauce. 

Cut  half  a  dozen  large  truffles  into  quarters,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  two 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  Spanish  sauce  and  two-thirds  of  a  wineglassful  of  sherry,  and 
boil  it  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  forty  minutes  or  so.  Pour  a  little  veal  stock 
into  the  sauce  now  and  then  as  it  becomes  reduced.  Strain  the  sauce,  chop  the 
truffles  coarsely,  return  them  to  the  stewpan  with  the  sauce  and  stir  them  over  the 
fire  until  boiling  again.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Valois    Sauce. 

Chop  two  shallots,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar  and 
boil  them  until  the  moisture  has  entirely  evaporated;  then  leave  it  until  cold.  Add 
the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  stir  all  over  the 
fire  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Take  the  saucepan  off  the  fire,  put  in  another  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  stir  over  the  fire  again.  Add  an  ounce  of  chicken  glaze  cut 
into  small  pieces,  another  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  mix  thoroughly  off  the  fire. 
Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  put  in  one  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and  chopped 
parsley,  and  when  well  mixed  serve 

Sauce  Veloute. 

Put  an  ounce  lump  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  allow  it  to  melt  and  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  continually  and  not  allowing  it  to  become  brown;  then  add 
a  pint  of  chicken  stock,  very  strong,  put  in  some  garnishes,  half  a  cupful  of  the  liquor 
of  mushrooms,  half  a  dozen  whole  peppers,  half  a  pinch  of  salt,  together  with  a  small 
quantity  of  nutmeg.  Let  boil,  the  while  stirring,  for  twenty  minutes,  then  move  to 
the  side  of  the  fire  and  skim  well,  allowing  it  to  simmer  slowly  for  an  hour,  after 
which  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Venetian   Sauce. 

Reduce  for  four  minutes  one  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  chervil 
vinegar  with  half  a  dozen  whole  peppers,  one  ounce  of  lean  cooked  ham  cut  into 
small  dice,  six  parsley  roots,  one  sprig  of  thyme  and  one  bay  leaf.  Strain  it  through 
a  fine  sieve  into  a  bowl,  moisten  with  one-half  pint  of  veloute  sauce,  and  finish  with  a 
dozen  leaves  of  finely-chopped  tarragon,  two  drops  of  spinach  green  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Victoria  Sauce. 

Pound  one  tablespoonful  of  lobster  coral  very  fine  with  one-half  ounce  of  fresh 
butter  and  set  it  one  side.  In  three-fourths  pint  of  allemande  sauce  place  one-half 


SAUCES.  535 

wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  half  a  dozen  chopped  mushrooms,  let  it  warm  well 
without  boiling  in  a  saucepan,  and  then  mix  in  the  lobster  coral.     Stir  well,  and  serve. 

Villeroy   Sauce. 

Mix  an  equal  quantity  of  butter  and  flour  together,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  in  a 
saucepan  until  highly  colored ;  then  stir  in  one  pint  of  either  meat  or  fish  broth,  a  few 
mushrooms,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Let  the  broth  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  boil  it  until  slightly  reduced,  When  ready 
to  serve,  thicken  the  sauce  with  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs. 

Vinaigrette   Sauce. 

Chop  together  very  fine  one  shallot,  two  branches  of  parsley,  and  the  same  of 
chives  and  chervil ;  when  all  are  well  chopped,  place  them  in  a  sauce-bowl,  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
Stir  all  well  together,  then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  good  oil,  mix  well  again,  and 
serve.  This  is  also  called  French  dressing. 

Walnut   Sauce. 

Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  one  pint  of  cold  water,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  boiling ;  put  in  a  lump  of  butter,  stir  until  the  butter  has  dissolved,  then  squeeze 
in  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice.  Chop  some  pickled  walnuts,  put  them  into  the 
sauce,  allow  them  to  simmer  all  together  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 

White   Sauce. 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  small  saucepan  and  melt  it  ;  then  add  one  tea- 
cupful  of  flour  that  has  been  dried  in  the  oven,  and  a  chopped  shallot,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  until  well  incorporated.  Then  pour  in  slowly  sufficient  white  broth  to  make 
a  thin  sauce,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half, 
stirring  it  occasionally  to  prevent  it  sticking  to  the  saucepan.  Beat  one  wineglassful 
of  white  wine  with  a  small  quantity  of  cream,  mix  it  with  the  sauce,  and  turn  it  into 
a  jar  until  ready  to  serve. 

Wine   Sauce   for   Fish. 

Put  one  teacupful  each  of  stock  and  wine  into  a  saucepan,  and  if  the  fish  has 
been  cooked  in  wine,  mix  in  also  the  cooking  liquor.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  in  a  fryingpan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  browned,  then  mix  it 
in  with  the  sauce.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  till  boiling;  then  strain  it  through  a 
fine  hair-sieve  into  another  saucepan;  skim  off  all  the  fat  as  it  rises,  and  let  it  simmer 


536  SAUCES. 

by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.     Squeeze   in   the  juice   of  a   lemon,    mix  a 
pinch  of  cayenne  in  the  sauce,  and  serve 

Woodcock    Liver    Sauce. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  port  wine  and  cullis,  and  the  pounded  bones  and 
livers  of  six  roasted  woodcocks  into  a  saucepan,  and  let  the  liquor  simmer  till  of  the 
consistency  of  cream;  then  strain,  and  add  the  strained  juice  of  two  oranges  and  a 
seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt. 

Yellow   Sauce. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan.  When  it  has  melted,  stir  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour  that  has  been  mixed  with  a  little  milk,  and  stir  this  over 
the  fire  until  well  mixed,  but  not  browned  at  all;  then  pour  in  by  degrees,  while  still 
stirring,  one  pint  of  milk  and  white  stock,  mixed  in  equal  quantities,  add  one  large 
carrot  cut  into  halves,  one  small  onion,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Put  into  the  sauce  whatever  meat  is  intended  for  the  fricassee,  and  stew  it 
gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  tender,  with  the  lid  placed  tightly  on  the  saucepan. 
Strain  the  sauce  through  a  silk  sieve  into  another  saucepan,  thicken  it  with  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Serve  while  hot. 


Sweet  Sauces  for  Puddings,  etc. 

Apple   Sauce. 

A  few  good  "falling"  apples  are  to  be  sliced  and  placed  in  a  saucepan  with 
sufficient  water  to  cover  the  apples,  then  stew  with  the  lid  on  until  well  done,  say 
about  half  an  hour.  While  stewing  put  in  a  small  lump  of  butter  and  mash  with  a 
silver  fork  or  spoon.  No  sugar  is  to  be  added. 

Arrowroot  Sauce. 

Mix  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  arrowroot  with  each  half  pint  of  milk  (or  white 
wine)  used,  and  sufficient  sugar  to  sweeten.  Add  a  little  grated  orange  or  lemon 
peel,  and  then  stir  over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  thick  remove  to  one  side.  Ten  minutes 
afterwards  remove  the  peel,  and  add  a  very  small  quantity  of  rum,  or  of  maraschino 
or  any  other  liquor.  This  is  to  be  used  for  pouring  over  light  puddings. 

Apricot  Sauce. 

Cut  some  apricots  in  halves,  remove  and  break  the  stones,  blanch  and  pound  the 
kernels  and  place,  together  with  the  fruit,  in  a  saucepan  with  enough  water  to  prevent 
them  from  burning.  Pour  over  them  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine,  and  when  the 
fruit  is  stewed  quite  soft,  add  sufficient  sugar  to  sweeten,  and  a  thickening  of  flour  or 
arrowroot  mixed  with  some  water.  Pass  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  sauce- 
boat,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Apricot  jam  and  sherry  may  be  substituted  for  the  fresh 
apricots  and  Madeira,  if  desired. 

Brandy   Butter   Sauce   for    Sweets. 

Beat  to  a  cream  the  desired  quantity  of  granulated  sugar  with  half  that  amount 
of  butter,  add  a  little  brandy  and  essence  of  nutmeg;  place  on  ice  and  use  as  re- 
quired. 

Caramel   Sauce. 

Put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar  into  a  saucepan  upon  the  fire  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  water;  stir  it  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes until  all  the  water  evaporates,  and  watch  it  carefully  until  it  turns  to  a  delicate 
brown  color.  In  the  meantime  put  into  another  saucepan  twelve  ounces  of  sugar, 
half  the  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon  sliced  thin,  two  inches  of  stick  cinnamon  and  a  quart 

537 


538  SWEET  SAUCES. 

of  cold  water;  bring  these  gradually  to  the  boil  and  let  them  simmer  for  ten  min- 
utes; add  one  wineglassful  of  wine  or  half  the  quantity  of  brandy.  Strain  the  liquid 
into  the  caramel  quickly,  mix  them  together  well,  and  serve  the  sauce  with  any  pud- 
ding desired. 

Chaudeau   Sauce. 

Put  the  yolks  of  eight  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  into  a  lined  saucepan  with  the 
strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  one-fourth  pound  each  of  lemon  sugar  and  loaf  sugar, 
and  one  quart  of  chablis,  and  whisk  this  over  a  slow  fire  until  a  light  froth  is  formed. 
When  the  sauce  is  on  the  point  of  boiling,  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  beat  the 
sauce  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  serve  it. 

Cranberry   Sauce. 

Wash  well  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cranberries  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  one-half  pint  of  cold  water;  sprinkle  over  the  top  one  teacupful  of  moistened 
sugar,  cover  the  pan  and  cook  for  half  an  hour;  then  mash  the  berries  with  a  spoon, 
remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  stir  up  well;  it  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Burnt   Cream   Sauce. 

The  following  sauce  may  be  used  either  for  custard  or  batter  pudding.  Put  two 
ounces  of  granulated  sugar  into  a  small  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  a  dark 
brown;  pour  in  slowly  with  the  sugar  one  teacupful  of  thin  cream,  or  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  milk  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  and  continue  stirring  the  sauce  over  the 
fire  until  the  cream  is  hot,  then  turn  it  into  a  sauceboat,  and  serve. 


Cherry   Sauce. 


Take  two  or  three  handfuls  of  sour  cherries,  remove  the  stones  and  stems,  pound 
them  in  a  mortar,  with  their  kernels,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan.  Then  add  a  lump 
of  sugar,  a  glass  of  claret,  a  bit  of  lemon  zest  and  cinnamon,  and  boil  until  the 
cherries  are  nicely  done;  then  strain  them  through  a  sieve,  return  them  to  the  pan, 
and  thicken  with  one  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch  mixed  with  a  little  cold  water. 
Boil  it  up  again,  and  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  preserved  cherries,  previously  dipped 
in  warm  water. 

Chocolate  Sauce. 

Put  one  ounce  of  chocolate  in  a  lined  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a 
few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla;  sweeten  to  taste  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  stir  with  the  boiling  sauce  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until 
the  eggs  are  thickened,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again. 


SWEET  SAUCES. 


Cinnamon   Sauce. 


539 


Take  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  break  it  into  small  pieces,  and  put  into  a  pan  with 
three  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  trifle  over  one  pint  of  water;  place  this  on  the  fire,  and 
after  it  has  boiled  up  once,  skim  and  strain  it  into  a  basin.  Mix  a  little  arrowroot, 
or  corn  starch  with  some  cold  water,  place  it  in  the  pan,  and  take  out  the  cinnamon. 
Boil  it  once  more  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 


Black  Currant  Jelly  Sauce. 


Into  a  saucepan  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  one  nicely  chopped  onion 
and  two  ounces  of  butter;  stir  over  the  fire  until  browned,  then  pour  in  half  a  pint  of 
clear  gravy;  add  a  bay  leaf,  a  little  lemon  peel,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  crushed  juniper 
berries,  one  wineglassful  of  red  wine,  and  one  tablespoonful  each  of  vinegar  and  chili 
vinegar.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir  it  over  the  fire  and  boil  for  eight 
or  ten  minutes.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve  before  serving. 

Red  Currant  Jelly   Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  teacupful  of  red  currant  jelly,  with  half  a  teacupful  of 
sherry  wine,  a  tablespoonful  of  caster  sugar,  and  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  the  jelly  has  dissolved,  then  add  a  few  drops  of 
cochineal,  just  sufficient  to  tinge,  and  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  mace.  The 
sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Diplomatic  Sauce  for  Pudding. 

Boil  one-half  pound  of  sugar  in  boiling  water,  then  thicken  it  with  flour.  Let  the 
sauce  simmer  until  clear,  then  mix  with  it  some  red  fruit  juice  or  white  or  red  wine,  a 
little  pounded  mace,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

English  Sweet  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  four  or  five  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  stir  with  a  spatula  until  it  becomes  a  whitish  color.  Add  two  gills  of 
sweet  cream,  little  by  little,  beating  constantly,  and  grate  in  the  rind  of  one  orange. 
Place  the  pan  on  a  slow  stove,  and  stir  the  contents  well  for  four  minutes,  being  care- 
ful not  to  let  them  boil.  Take  the  pan  off,  strain  the  sauce  through  a  sieve,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

Fruit  Sauce. 

Stew  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  cherries,  plums  and  green  gages  with  a  very 
little  water  and  loaf  suerar  to  taste;  rub  the  fruit  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  another 


540  SWEET  SAUCES. 

stewpan,  crack  the  stones  and  pound  the  kernels  and  blend  them  with  the  fruit.  Mix 
one  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch  with  a  little  water,  stir  it  in  with  the  fruit  and  continue 
stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  sauce  boils  and  thickens,  add  a  wineglassful  of  port 
wine  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  This  sauce  may  be  served  with  puddings,  pies, 
or  blancmanges. 

Fruit   Sauce   for   Batter   Pudding. 

Mix  with  a  fork  equal  parts  of  warmed  butter  and  granulated  sugar,  together 
with  enough  fruit  juice  or  essence  to  flavor  the  sauce  palatably. 

German   Sauce   for   Puddings. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  fresh  eggs  for  about  twenty  minutes  ;  put  one- 
fourth  pound  of  sugar  into  a  lined  saucepan  with  one-fourth  pint  of  marsala  ;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  move  it  to  the  side,  as  it  must  not  be  permitted  to  boil. 
Stir  the  beaten  yolks  in  with  the  wine,  and  add  the  strained  juice  of  a  small  lemon. 
Whisk  the  sauce  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  well  frothed  and  thickened,  when  it  will 
be  ready  tor  serving. 

Ginger   Sauce. 

Bruise  one  or  two  pieces  of  whole  ginger;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three 
ounces  of  loaf  sugar  and  one  pint  of  water  and  boil  for  several  minutes;  then  skim 
and  strain  the  liquor.  Mix  a  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold 
water,  stir  in  the  above  liquor,  return  it  to  the  stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
thickened  and  boiling.  It  is  then  ready  to  be  served. 

Golden    Sauce. 

Break  a  nutmeg  in  pieces,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water,  and  boil. 
Mix  two  ounces  of  corn  starch  with  one  pound  of  sugar,  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
water,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  corn  starch  is  cooked,  then  add  one-fourth 
pound  of  butter.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  tablespoonful  of  the  sauce, 
then  stir  them  quickly  into  the  remainder,  which  should  be  immediately  removed  as 
the  yolks  will  curdle  if  boiled.  Strain  the  sauce,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Hard   Sauce. 

Put  in  a  bowl  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  with  four  ounces  of  powdered  loaf 
sugar ;  then  mix  with  a  spidula,  beating  together  sharply  for  twenty  minutes,  add  one- 
half  coffeespoonful  of  powdered  mace,  beat  briskly  for  about  five  minutes  longer,  ar- 
range it  on  a  dish,  and  place  it  on  the  ice  two  minutes  before  serving. 


SWEET  SAUCES.  541 

Kirsch   Sauce. 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  one  pint  of  cold  water  and  one-half  pound  of  granulated 
sugar,  and  place  it  over  a  hot  fire.  Mix  one  ounce  of  corn  starch  in  a  cup  with  one 
gill  of  cold  water,  and  when  the  water  in  the  saucepan  is  boiling,  add  the  corn  starch 
to  it,  stirring  it  well  for  two  minutes  with  a  whisk.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  add 
immediately  one-half  gill  of  kirsch  and  stir  again  for  a  minute.  Strain  through  a  fine 
sieve  into  a  sauceboat,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Lemon    Butter   Sauce. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar 
into  a  saucepan ;  grate  in  the  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  then  stir  in  one-half  pint  of  boil- 
ing water,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter ;  add  by  degrees 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  stirring  it  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  so,  using  care  to 
see  that  the  eggs  do  not  curdle.  This  sauce  can  be  served  with  puddings,  or,  with 
the  whipped  white  of  an  egg  added,  can  be  used  to  fill  paste-lined  patty-pans  for 
tarts  or  cheese  cakes. 

Lemon   Sauce   for   Puddings. 

Boil  one  pint  of  water  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  sugar  for  five  minutes,  then 
stir  in  three  large  teaspoonfuls  of  corn  starch  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold 
water,  stir  over  the  fire  for  ten  minntes,  then  add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one 
lemon  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  When  the  butter  is  melted  the  sauce  is  ready 
to  be  served 

Sweet   Madeira  Sauce. 

Beat  well  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs,  pour  them  into  a  lined  stewpan,  and 
stir  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  grated  rind  and  strained  juice  of 
one  lemon,  and  two  and  one-half  wineglassfuls  of  Madeira  wine.  Whisk  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  until  of  a  thick  yellow  froth,  then  remove  it  and  serve  with  as  little  delay 
as  possible.  On  no  account  must  the  sauce  boil,  or  the  eggs  will  curdle. 


Marmalade    Sauce. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  marmalade  into  a  small  saucepan  with  two  wine- 
glassfuls  of  white  wine,  and  stir  over  a  gentle  fire  until  hot.  Strain  the  sauce  and  it 
is  then  ready  for  serving.  Brandy  and  water  in  equal  parts  may  be  substituted  for 
the  wine  if  preferred. 


542  SWEET  SAUCES. 


Sauce   for    Plum    Pudding. 


Put  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  when  it  has  melted  stir  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  mix  well;  then  pour  in  gradually  one  and  one-half 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  hot  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  cooked;  then  add  one-half 
pound  of  brown  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated 
nutmeg.  When  the  sugar  has  dissolved,  serve  the  sauce. 

Prune   Sauce. 

Place  half  a  pound  of  prunes  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  water,  and  boil  them 
until  they  are  soft;  then  remove  the  stones  from  the  fruit,  break  them  up  small  in  a 
mortar,  and  put  them  in  with  the  fruit,  adding  a  thin  strip  of  lemon-peel,  and  the 
strained  juice  of  one  lemon,  together  with  sugar  to  the  taste,  add  a  small  quantity  of 
powdered  cinnamon,  and  one  and  a  half  wineglassfuls  of  port  wine;  let  the  sauce 
simmer  at  the  edge  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  rub  it  through  a  coarse 
wire  sieve,  and  serve. 


Raspberry   Sauce. 


Squeeze  the  juice  from  a  sufficient  quantity  of  ripe  raspberries  to  make  one-half 
pint,  pour  it  in  a  small  lined  saucepan,  adding  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  sweeten  to  taste 
with  sugar,  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  arrow- 
root in  a  basin,  strain  the  juice  and  pour  it  into  the  basin  with  the  arrowroot.  Return 
the  whole  to  the  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thick  and  boiling  again.  The 
sauce  is  then  ready  for  use.  If  the  fresh  raspberries  cannot  be  had,  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  raspberry  jam  can  be  used  with  one-half  pint  of  water.  Use  the  lemon 
juice,  but  if  sufficiently  sweet,  the  sugar  may  be  omitted. 

Raspberry    Butter   Sauce. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  into  a  basin,  slightly  warm  it  and  work  in  one- 
half  pound  of  loaf  sugar  crushed  and  sifted.  Pour  in  enough  raspberry  juice  to  color 
and  flavor  it,  when  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Sabayon   Sauce. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  the  yolks   of  eight  eggs  and  one-half  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  mix  well  and  moisten  with  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine.      Place  the  stew 
pan  over  a  slow  fire   and  whip   the   contents  continually  until  it  is  quite  as  frothy  as 
whipped  cream.      It  should  then  be  served  immediately,  either  in  custard   glasses   or 
spread  out  over  the  pudding  with  which  it  is  to  be  served. 


SWEET  SAUCES. 


543 


Sabayon   Sauce   with    Madeira. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  the  yolks  of  four  raw  eggs,  and  one  and  one-half  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar;  place  it  on  a  hot  stove  and  with  a  wire  whisk  beat  for  two  minutes. 
Drop  in  gradually  two  gills  or  so  of  Madeira  wine,  stir  constantly  for  two  minutes, 
take  from  the  fire  and  strain  through  from  a  fine  sieve  over  the  pudding  with  which  it 
is  to  be  served. 

Sweet  Sauce. 

Put  one  teacupful  of  cream  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  it.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour  with  one  wineglassful  of  sherry,  stir  it  into  the  boiling  cream,  add  a  small 
quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  sweeten  to  taste  with  sugar.  Let  the  sauce  simmer 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  and  then  serve. 

Swiss   Sauce. 

Put  one  teacupful  of  cream  into  a  saucepan,  and,  when  boiling,  mix  with  it  one 
wineglassful  of  sherry  that  has  been  thickened  with  one  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Sweeten 
to  taste  with  sugar,  grate  a  little  nutmeg  over,  and  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes.  The 
sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Transparent  Sauce. 

Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  corn  starch  with  one  teacupful  of  sugar  in  a  saucepan, 
then  stir  in  one-half  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  add  half  a  lemon  cut  into  slices  and  a 
small  lump  of  butter.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire,  and  boil  until  transparent.  It  is 
then  ready  for  serving  with  fritters. 

Vanilla   Sauce. 

Pour  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  and  put  in  a  vanilla  bean  and  sugar  to 
taste;  boil  it  and  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  add  them  to  the  milk;  stir  the  sauce  over 
a  slow  fire  until  thick,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Whip  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to 
a  stiff  froth  with  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  mix  the  froth  with  the  sauce,  and  serve. 

Vanilla   Cream   Sauce. 

This  is  to  be  served  with  hot  cakes,  such  as  baba.  Boil  one  pint  of  cold  milk  in 
a  saucepan.  Put  three  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  small  basin  with  two  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar,  one  ounce  of  flour  and  a  piece  of  vanilla  stick  one  inch  long.  Beat  these  well 
together  with  a  wire  whip  for  two  minutes,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk, 


544  SWEET  SAUCES. 

stir  it  again  briskly  with  the  whisk  until  it  boils,  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  one- 
half  gill  of  maraschino.  Beat  again  for  one  minute  and  pour  the  cream  nicely  over 
the  cake  before  sending  to  the  table. 


Yellow   Sauce  for   Puddings. 


Warm  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  in  a  basin,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  beat  it  to 
a  cream  with  one-fourth  pound  of  brown  sugar;  stand  the  basin  in  a  saucepan  con- 
taining boiling  water,  stir  the  sugar  and  butter  until  liquid,  and  then  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  an  egg  or  two.  Keep  on  stirring  with  the  saucepan  placed  over  a  gentle  fire 
until  the  sauce  is  thick,  then  mix  in  with  it  one  teacupful  of  brandy,  or  wine  if  pre- 
ferred, and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  The  sauce  should  be  served  without 
delay. 


Garnishings. 

How   to    Prepare   a   Garnished   Bouquet. 

Procure  .four  branches  of  thoroughly  washed  parsley-stalks,  a  branch  of  soup- 
celery  also  thoroughly  cleansed,  a  blade  of  bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  a  couple 
of  cloves  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  parsley  so  as  to  prevent  them  from  dropping 
apart;  fold  it  together  and  tie  it  with  a  string. 

Preparing  Croquettes. 

A  good  deal  of  care  and  practice  are  required  to  make  croquettes  nicely.  The 
meat  must  be  chopped  fine,  the  ingredients  well  mixed,  and  the  mixture  as  moist  as 
possible  without  preventing  the  formation.  When  shaping  them  take  a  tablespoonful 
or  so  of  the  mixture,  and  with  both  hands  work  it  into  the  form  of  a  cylinder. 
Handle  the  mixture  as  gently  as  possible,  for  too  much  pressure  wilt  force  the 
particles  apart  and  spoil  the  shape.  Sprinkle  a  board  lightly  with  bread  or  cracker- 
crumbs,  and  roll  the  croquettes  very  gently  on  this.  Allow  them  to  remain  on  the 
board  until  they  are  finished,  when,  if  any  have  become  flattened,  roll  them  into  shape 
again.  Cover  a  board  thickly  with  crumbs,  have  some  beaten  eggs  salted  slightly,  in 
a  deep  plate;  hold  a  croquette  in  the  left  hand  and,  with  a  brush  in  the  right,  cover  it 
with  the  egg;  roll  it  in  the  crumbs,  and  keep  on  doing  this  until  they  are  covered. 
Place  a  few  at  a  time  in  a  frying  basket — not  allowing  them  to  touch  each  other — 
and  plunge  the  basket  into  boiling  fat;  cook  until  they  are  of  a  rich  browni  Take 
them  up,  lay  on  paper,  and  let  drain. 

Crouton   of    Fried   Bread. 

Remove  all  the  crust  from  a  loaf  of  bread  and  trim  the  crumb  into  a  block  eight 
inches  high  by  six  inches  square  at  the  base,  and  taper  it  off  to  three  and  a  half  inches 
at  the  top.  Place  in  a  pan  a  large  lump  of  clarified  butter  or  lard  put  over  the  fire 
until  it  begins  to  boil,  then  put  the  bread  in  and  fry  it,  turning  it  until  nicely  browned 
on  all  sides.  Drain  the  bread  on  a  sieve,  and  stick  onto  a  dish  with  some  paste 
made  of  flour  and  the  white  of  an  egg,  which  will  retain  it  firmly  where  it  is  placed. 

Croutons. 

Cut  some  slices  a  third  of  an  inch  in  thickness  off  a  kitchen  loaf  and  cut  from 
these  with  an  ordinary  paste-cutter  or  a  sharp  knife,  crescents,  squares,  lozenges,  ob- 

545 


546  GARNISHINGS. 

longs,  ovals,  rounds,  stars,  or  any  other  shape  desired;  fry  them  in  boiling  fat,  but 
using  butter  in  preference.  The  frying  basket  gives  a  more  even  color,  but  the  fry- 
ingpan,  with  plenty  of  fat,  butter  or  oil,  may  be  used,  if  more  convenient.  Drain  on 
a  cloth  or  paper  before  using. 

For  Soups:  Cut  'the  slices  of  bread  half  an  inch  thick,  and  then  into  dice.  Fry 
them  as  before,  drain  and  serve  in  a  deep  plate,  or  silver  covered  dish. 

Bread  Croutons  for  Entrees. 

Cut  into  slices  half  an  inch  in  thickness  some  bread,  and  form  into  heart-shaped 
pieces  about  two  inches  in  length;  melt  in  a  fryingpan  some  butter  and  fry  the  bread 
in  it  until  it  is  a  light  yellow,  being  careful  to  color  all  alike. 

Bread  Croutons  for  Entremets. 

Cut  some  slices  of  bread  half  an  inch  thick,  removing  all  crust,  and  cut  the 
crumb  into  inch  and  a  half  triangular  pieces,  trim  off  the  angles  and  fry  to  a  golden 
color  in  butter, 

Bread  Croutons  for  Soup. 

Slices  of  bread  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  are  cut  into  quarter-inch  dice, 
after  removing  all  crust.  Heat  in  a  pan  some  clarified  butter,  and  fry  in  it  the 
croutons  until  they  are  of  a  light  golden  color,  tossing  them  about  to  insure  equal 
color  to  all.  Drain  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  serve. 

Bread   Croutons   a  la  Conde    for   Soup. 

Cut  off  from  rolls  or  slices  of  bread  the  dark  crusts,  and  cut  the  bread  into  dice, 
placing  them  on  tin  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Then  remove,  and  serve  in  soup  plates 
with  soup. 

Dumplings   for   Broth. 

Sift  together  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  one  heaped  breakfast  cupful 
of  flour;  add  a  pinch  of  salt  and  mix  to  a  smooth  soft  dough  with  water  Drop 
small  quantities  of  this  with  a  spoon  into  the  broth  where  they  should  float,  and  put 
on  the  lid.  When  they  are  about  three-parts  done,  put  the  saucepan  into  the  oven, 
first  removing  the  lid  and  brown  the  tops  of  the  dumplings,  basting  them  once  with 
the  liquor. 

Sago  Dumplings   for  Soup,  (German). 

Boil  the  requisite  quantity  of  sago  in  milk,  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
it  is  thick  and  clear;  turn  it  onto  a  dish  in  a  layer  about  one  inch  thick  and  leave  it 
until  it  is  cold.  Then  cut  it  into  small  rounds  with  a  tin  cutter  and  form  them  into 


GARNISHINGS.  547 

balls.     Pour  boiling  soup   into  a  tureen;  dip  the  balls  in  beaten  egg,  put  them  in  the 
soup,  and  serve. 

Egg   Balls   for   Soup. 

Pound  in  a  mortar  one  teaspoonful  of  ham  or  tongue;  add  the  yolk  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg,  a  little  boiled  and  finely-minced  parsley  and  a  seasoning  of  grated  nut- 
meg and  cayenne.  When  well-mixed,  add  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg  and  form  the  mass 
into  small  balls;  plunge  these  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  milk,  poach  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  add  them  to  the  hot  soup  for  which  they  are  made,  and  serve. 

Egg  Balls  for  Turtle  Soup. 

Put  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  into  a  basin,  break  them  up  and  mix 
them  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg.  Form  the  paste  into  small  balls,  plunge  them  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  let  them  remain  for  two  minutes  to  get  hard.  They 
are  then  ready  for  use. 

Poached  Eggs  for  Soup. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water  half  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar,  keep- 
ing it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  gently.  Break  some  eggs  separately  into  a  cup, 
pour  them  gently  into  the  boiling  water,  cover  over  the  pan  and  let  them  remain  for 
three  minutes.  A  few  only  should  be  put  in  at  a  time.  When  done  take  them  out 
with  a  perforated  slice,  and  plunge  them  into  cold  water.  Remove,  pare  them  round- 
shaped  and  either  put  them  into  a  tureen  with  the  soup  or  serve  separately  on  a  dish. 

Forcemeats. 

This  term  is  a  corruption  of  farce-meats,  from  the  French  facir — to  stuff. 

American   Forcemeat. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  two  very  finely-chopped  onions  with  one  ounce  of  butter  on 
the  fire  for  five  minutes.  Soak  the  crumb  of  a  loaf  of  bread  in  water  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  press  out  all  the  water  and  put  the  crumb  in  a  bowl  with  three  eggs,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  pepper,  one  tablespoonful  of  sage,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  three  skinned  sausages  and  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley  ; 
add  the  cooked  onions  and  mix  well  together.  The  forcemeat  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Forcemeat   Balls. 

Take  one  pound  of  beef  suet  and  three  pounds  of  veal ;  put  them  in  a  mortar 
with  a  few  herbs,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  dried  mace,  finely-chopped  lemon  peel, 
salt  and  pepper;  and  pound  them  well,  adding  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  bind  the 
mass.  Form  it  into  balls,  roll  them  in  flour  and  fry  in  butter  to  a  light  brown  color. 


548  GARNISHINGS. 


Forcemeat   Balls  for  Soup. 


Chop  one  breakfast  cupful  of  any  cooked  meat,  add  a  saltspoonful  each  of  thyme 
and  salt,  and  half  the  quantity  of  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  few  drops 
of  onion  juice  and  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley.  Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and 
add  sufficient  of  it  to  moisten  the  meat.  Roll  the  mixture  into  balls  about  the  size  of 
walnuts,  put  them  into  a  deep  plate,  dust  over  with  flour,  and  shake  the  plate  with  a 
circular  motion  to  get  the  balls  well  covered.  Put  them  in  an  omelet  pan  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  over  a  moderate  fire,  shaking  it  occasionally  so  that  the  balls 
are  cooked  all  over,  and  when  done  and  a  good  brown  color,  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Forcemeat   Balls   for   Turtle   Soup. 

Cut  off  a  very  small  portion  of  the  vealy  part  of  a  turtle,  mince  it  very  fine  and 
mix  it  up  with  a  small  quantity  of  boned  anchovy  and  boiled  celery,  the  yolks  of  one 
or  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  with  mace, 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a  small  quantity  of  warmed  butter  and  well-beaten 
egg.  Form  the  paste  into  balls,  plunge  them  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  butter  or 
fat,  fry  them  to  a  good  color  and  they  are  then  ready  for  use.  They  should  be  added 
hot  to  the  soup. 

Chicken   Forcemeat. 

Take  sufficient  meat  from  a  cooked  chicken  so  that  after  it  has  been  pounded 
and  passed  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  there  will  be  one  pound  of  the  puree;  add  to  this 
ten  ounces  of  veal  udder,  boiled  and  pounded  the  same  as  the  chicken,  and  mix  well, 
adding  another  ten  ounces  of  panada  made  with  some  good  stock  and  seasoning  with 
grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pound  all  the  foregoing  well  together  and 
moisten  with  reduced  allemande  sauce  until  it  is  of  good  consistence.  Take  a  small 
piece  and  plunge  it  into  boiling  water  or  stock,  and  if  it  is  too  thick  add  a  little 
double  cream  or  a  little  more  of  the  sauce.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Chicken   Forcemeat  for  Patties. 

Remove  the  skin  from  a  chicken,  take  off  all  the  flesh  from  the  bones  and  pound 
it  to  a  pulp  in  a  mortar.  Soak  half  a  pound  of  breadcrumbs  in  milk,  take  it  out  and 
squeeze  it  dry,  then  rub  three  ounces  of  warmed  butter  into  it;  put  in  the  meat,  add  a 
little  grated  nutmeg  and  salt  to  taste;  moisten  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  form 
the  forcemeat  into  balls.  A  thin  slice  of  ham  or  cooked  bacon  may  be  wrapped 
around  each  piece  and  is  a  great  improvement.  It  is  well  to  add  a  little  chopped 
parsley. 

Game    Forcemeat. 

Take  any  cold  cooked  game;  remove  the  flesh  from  the  bones,  weigh  it,  and  for 
every  pound  of  meat  add  four  ounces  of  fat  bacon,  a  little  shallot,  capers,  a  few 


GARNISH1NGS.  549 

leaves  of  tarragon  and  a  little  lemon  peel,  all  finely  mixed.  Put  some  crumbs  of 
bread  into  a  basin  with  a  little  milk;  when  it  has  absorbed  sufficient  of  it,  take  it  out 
and  squeeze  dry,  adding  it  to  the  mixture  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Sprinkle  over 
pepper  to  the  taste,  and  mix  in  the  whites  of  three  eggs  whipped  to  a  froth.  If 
unsalted  bacon  is  used,  very  little  dry  salt  must  be  added. 

Forcemeat  of  Goose's   Fat  Liver. 

Put  into  a  mortar  one  pound  of  fat  liver  with  three  ounces  of  boiled  and  cooled 
calf's  udder  and  seven  ounces  of  bread  panada,  and  pound  them  well  together;  add  a 
little  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  the  taste  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  wire-sieve. 
Return  it  to  the  mortar  again,  pound  it  and  add  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  one  at  a  time, 
taking  care  to  mix  one  in  thoroughly  before  adding  another.  The  forcemeat  should 
then  be  put  in  a  basin  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted  for  use. 

Forcemeat  of  Ham. 

Chop  fine  about  two  pounds  of  cooked  lean  ham,  put  into  a  mortar,  and  pound 
well.  Put  one  pound  of  breadcrumbs  and  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  place  it 
over  a  slow  fire,  and  boil  until  the  crumbs  are  soft  and  smooth;  add  a  little  cayenne, 
one-half  pint  of  brown  sauce,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
mustard.  Place  it  one  side  to  cool,  and  then  make  into  a  mass  with  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs.  It  will  then  be  ready  for  use,  either  as  a  border,  or  for  game  pies,  or  for 
quenelles. 

Forcemeat   of  Hare's   Liver. 

Place  the  livers  of  two  or  three  hares  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  to  a  pulp,  with 
about  one-half  their  bulk  of  beef-kidney  suet  and  bacon  fat  in  equal  proportions. 
Season  with  ground  cloves,  pepper  and  salt.  If  enough  hare's  livers  are  not  obtain- 
able, a  little  of  the  flesh  can  be  used.  Add  a  little  cream,  and  mix  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  in  order  to  make  the  forcemeat  of  proper  consistence.  Put  it  into  a  stewpan 
and  set  it  over  the  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  stirring  constantly  until  it  becomes 
quite  stiff,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  serve  with  the  game. 

Lobster   Forcemeat. 

Fry  an  onion,  chopped  fine,  in  an  ounce  of  butter  until  it  is  a  golden  color,  add- 
ing a  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  make  a  roux.  Moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  stock, 
stirring  well  and  often  until  the  sauce  hardens.  Season  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
salt,  a  little  white  pepper,  the  same  of  cayenne,  a  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire 
sauce,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  crushed  grain  of  garlic,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  Stir  this  well,  adding  two  pounds  of  cooked  lobster  cut  in  small 
pieces,  with  twelve  mushrooms,  also  chopped  up  very  small.  Cook  for  thirty  min- 


550  GARNISHINGS. 

utes  in  a  saucepan,  then  put  it  back  off  the  hot  fire;  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
stir  again  for  a  moment,  cool,  and  use  as  required. 

Forcemeat   of   Mushrooms. 

Take  one-fourth  pound  of  button  mushrooms,  peel  off  the  upper  skin,  cut  off 
the  stems,  and,  after  pounding,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter; 
put  in  the  mushrooms  and  stew  slowly  for  about  eight  minutes,  adding  a  little 
cayenne  and  ground  allspice;  turn  them  onto  a  plate,  leaning  them  against  one  an- 
other, so  that  the  fat  will  drain,  and  let  them  get  cold;  then  chop  very  fine,  and 
add  one-fourth  pound  of  breadcrumbs,  season  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  mace, 
cayenne  and  salt,  add  a  little  butter,  and  mix  the  whole  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
to  make  the  mass  firm,  and  pour  in  sufficient  of  the  gravy  from  the  mushrooms  to 
render  it  of  the  desired  thickness.  Form  it  into  balls,  and  either  poach  them  for  six 
minutes  for  soup,  or  fry  them  for  seven  minutes  in  butter,  and  use  them  to  garnish 
roast  poultry. 

Partridge   Forcemeat. 

Put  an  equal  quantity  of  partridge  and  chicken  flesh  cut  in  small  pieces  in  a 
mortar  and  pound  it;  rub  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  mix  with  it  ten  ounces  of 
udder  of  veal  previously  boiled,  pounded  and  passed  through  the  sieve.  When  well 
mixed  add  ten  ounces  of  bread  that  has  been  soaked  in  a  little  stiffly  reduced  stock, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Mix  the  whole  thoroughly, 
then  add  one  teacupful  of  Spanish  sauce  reduced  with  essence  of  partridge.  It  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

Pheasant   Forcemeat. 

Chop  twelve  ounces  of  pheasant  and  eight  ounces  of  chicken  meat  together,  put 
it  in  a  mortar,  pound  it  and  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Pound  and  pass 
through  the  sieve  ten  ounces  of  boiled  udder  of  veal,  mix  it  with  the  pounded  meat, 
and  work  it  up  with  twelve  ounces  of  bread  panada;  sprinkle  over  it  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  the  whole  thoroughly  with  a  teacupful  of  reduced 
Spanish  sauce.  Test  a  small  piece  of  the  forcemeat  by  poaching  it  in  boiling  water, 
and  if  it  is  too  stiff  mix  a  little  more  of  the  sauce  with  it. 

Forcemeat   for   Pies. 

Chop  half  a  pound  of  fat  bacon  with  one  pound  of  veal  with  the  skin  and  fat 
taken  off,  add  a  little  powdered  herbs  and  mushroom  catsup,  two  eggs,  and  a  little 
salt  to  season.  Mix  well,  roll  up  into  balls  and  use  for  pies  or  any  made  dishes. 

Forcemeat  for  Pigeons. 

Put  into  a  basin  two  ounces  of  butter  and  beat  it  until  it  is  nearly  a  cream,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  breadcrumbs,  a  little  finely-minced  parsley,  lemon  peel, 


GARNISHINGS.  551 

ground  mace,  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and   pepper,  and  bind  the  mass  together  with  a 
well  beaten  egg. 

Pike    Forcemeat. 

Cut  off  the  fillets  of  a  cold  boiled  pike,  rub  them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  weigh 
them,  and  to  every  pound  of  fish,  add  ten  ounces  of  bread-panada  and  ten  ounces  of 
butter;  mix  well,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  in  two  beaten  eggs  and  moisten 
with  reduced  lean  veloute  sauce  thickened  with  egg.  When  of  the  proper  consis- 
tency for  forcemeat,  it  is  readv  for  use. 

Pork    Forcemeat   with    Bacon. 

Cut  into  slices  a  pound  each  of  lean  pork  and  lean  bacon  and  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  enough  water  to  prevent  the  meat  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the 
pan,  add  a  couple  of  ounces  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper  and  one  onion  cut 
into  small  pieces;  cover  over  the  pan  and  put  it  on  the  fire,  letting  it  simmer  gently 
until  the  meat  is  quite  tender,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  mince  very  fine.  Pour 
into  the  pan  with  the  gravy  a  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  and  add  a  little  mace,  herbs, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  together  with  six  well-beaten  eggs,  stir  thoroughly  and  add 
the  meat.  Line  a  circular  tin  dish  with  light  paste  and  pour  in  the  mixture,  cover 
over  with  a  lid  of  the  paste,  making  a  hole  in  the  top  and  bake  until  done  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.  After  it  has  become  cold,  turn  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Forcemeat    Rissoles. 

Roll  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  puff  paste  on  a  board  to  the  thickness 
of  about  half  an  inch  and  cut  it  into  small  rounds  with  a  paste-cutter;  put  a  little 
forcemeat  on  each  one,  wet  the  edges  and  cover  them  over  with  another  round  of 
paste.  Mark  the  top  with  the  paste-cutter  and  press  round  the  edges.  Put  some 
butter  into  a  fryingpan,  and  when  it  is  boiling  put  in  the  rissoles  and  fry  them  until 
done.  Take  them  out,  drain,  and  serve  on  a  dish-paper. 

Forcemeat    of  Shrimps. 

Take  two  or  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  shrimps,  remove  the  shells,  chop  them  up 
into  very  fine  pieces  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of  breadcrumbs,  a  little  mace,  and  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  this  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it  with  about  three  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  firm  paste.  Add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  to  form  the  mixture  into  a  smooth  paste  and 
use  it  for  stuffing  a  fish  to  be  baked. 

Forcemeat  for  Roasted  Suckling  Pig. 

Parboil  one  or  two  small  onions,  chop  them  very  fine,  and  add  half  an  ounce  of 
powdered  sage,  six  ounces  of  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  four  ounces  of  butter;  season 


552  GARNISHINGS. 

with  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  one  egg  to  bind  it  into  a  mass.     It  will  then 
be  ready  for  use.     If  preferred,  the  onion  may  be  left  out  of  the  stuffing  altogether. 

Truffle   Forcemeat. 

Peel  and  wash  one  or  two  pounds  of  truffles;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
butter,  warm  them,  add  an  equal  amount  of  calf's  udder  or  scraped  bacon  and  a  little 
minced  sweet  herbs;  when  warm,  turn  the  whole  into  a  mortar  and  pound  thoroughly. 
Sprinkle  over  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt,  mix  in  some  breadcrumbs  soaked  in 
milk,  and  sufficient  yolks  of  eggs  to  give  the  forcemeat  the  required  consistency.  It 
is  then  ready  for  use. 

Forcemeat   for   Roasted   Turkey   or  Veal. 

Take  two  ounces  each  of  breadcrumbs  and  beef  suet  finely-minced,  and  add  any 
seasoning  required,  such  as  sweet  marjoram,  lemon,  thyme,  finely-chopped  parsley, 
etc.,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  moisten  with  egg,  well  beaten,  to  make  it  into  a 
mass. 

Veal    Forcemeat. 

Chop  one  pound  of  beef  suet,  and  half  that  quantity  of  lean  veal,  and  mix  them 
together.  Season  the  mixture  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg;  place  it  in  a 
mortar  and  pound,  then  stir  in  four  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  with  a  little  water  and 
one  tablespoonful .  of  chopped  parsley.  When  well  mixed,  the  forcemeat  is  ready 
for  use. 

Veal    Forcemeat  (for  Balls  or  Stuffing). 

Take  some  lean  veal,  chop  it  finely  and  put  it  into  a  mortar  with  one-third  its 
quantity  of  either  fine-shredded  suet  or  butter  and  the  same  of  stale  breadcrumbs, 
then  put  it  in  a  basin  with  a  little  milk  and  when  thoroughly  soaked  take  out  and 
squeeze  dry;  pound  well,  adding  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Beat  up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pour  it  over  the  mixture  to  bind  it,  make  a  firm  paste 
and  use  it  either  made  into  balls  and  fried  or  as  stuffing. 

Veal   Forcemeat   Balls   (for   Mock   Turtle   Soup). 

Take  the  crumb  of  two  or  three  French  rolls,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  suffi- 
cient rich  gravy  to  cover  it,  place  the  pan  by  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  gently 
until  quite  done.  Remove  it,  squeeze  out  all  the  liquor,  put  it  into  another  saucepan 
over  the  fire  and  stir  it  until  quite  dry;  then  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  allow  it 
to  cool.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of  lean  veal  into  a  mortar,  pound  it  and  add  the 
breadcrumb  mixture  and  three  or  four  ounces  of  butter.  Season  it  to  taste  with 
grated  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  cayenne  and  mace,  and,  if  liked,  a  little  well-pounded 
lean  ham.  Roll  the  paste  into  balls  and  boil  for  twelve  minutes  before  putting  into 
mock  turtle  soup. 


GARN1SHINGS. 


553 


Veal  Forcemeat  Stuffing  for  Fish. 

Make  four  ounces  of  bread  panada  and  mix  with  it  four  ounces  of  finely-minced 
cooked  veal,  two  ounces  of  chopped  fat  salt  pork  and  suet,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
one-half  teaspoonful  each  of  powdered  savoury  and  thyme  and  a  little  ground  mace; 
add  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  and  bind  the  whole  with  a  beaten  egg.  The  stuf- 
fing is  then  ready  for  use.  Of  course  it  can  be  made  in  larger  or  smaller  quantities, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  fish. 

Veal    Forcemeat   (for   Boiled   Turkey). 

Take  one-half  pound  of  lean  veal,  chop  it  fine  with  a  small  quantity  of  beef 
suet,  a  few  oysters,  and  two  anchovies,  and  add  some  breadcrumbs  mixed  with  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  a  few  herbs.  When  the  turkey  is  prepared  for  boiling,  stuff  the 
crop  with  the  forcemeat,  and  boil. 

Admiral   Garnish. 

This  is  a  fish  garnish  made  up  of  boiled  crayfish  tails  and  prawns,  mussels  masked 
with  villeroy  sauce,  covered  with  breadcrumbs  and  fried  in  fat  and  parsley,  all  placed 
in  groups  around  the  dish. 

Artichoke   Bottoms  for    Garnish. 

Cut  off  all  the  top  leaves  and  trim  the  under  ones,  put  into  a  saucepan  of  slightly 
salted  water,  and  boil  until  the  skin  can  be  easily  removed.  Then  remove,  skin, 
trim  and  turn  them,  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  some  flour,  water,  salt,  lemon  and 
butter,  and  cook  until  tender.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  let  them  get  quite 

cold  in  the  mixture,  and  take  out  when  wanted. 

/ 

Bayard    Garnish. 

This  is  made  up  of  truffle,  tongue,  mushrooms,  artichokes,  Madeira,  Spanish 
sauce,  bread  and  goose's  fat  liver,  prepared  as  follows:  Cut  a  truffle  into  very  thin 
round  slices,  also  a  little  cooked  smoked  beef  tongue,  three  mushrooms  and  two 
artichoke  bottoms.  Put  them  all  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  half  a  wineglassful  of 
Madeira,  boil  for  about  five  minutes  or  until  reduced  to  one-half  its  original  bulk; 
add  a  breakfast  cupful  of  Spanish  sauce  and  cook  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer. 
Surround  the  dish  with  croutons  of  bread  covered  with  slices  of  cooked  goose's  fat 
liver. 

Beef  Marrow   Garnishing. 

Open  two  fine  marrow  bones  by  setting  them  upright  on  the  table,  the  marrow 
part  on  top,  and  with  a  sharp  blow  with  a  cleaver  splitting  them  in  two,  striking  them 
on  one  side  only  Remove  the  marrow,  put  it  in  freshly-salted  water  and  let  it  re- 


554  GARNISHINGS. 

main  for  one  hour;  then  take  it  up,  drain,  and  cut  it  in  slices.  Heat  one-half  pint  of 
Madeira  sauce,  add  the  pieces  of  marrow,  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  let  it 
boil  up  once.  Serve  with  the  slices  of  marrow  on  top. 

Bordeaux   Garnish,  (Bordelaise.) 

This  is  composed  of  shallots,  wine,  Spanish  sauce  and  beef  marrow  prepared  as 
follows:  Chop  fine  a  peeled  shallot,  put  it  in  a  sautepan  with  half  a  wineglassful  of 
red  wine  and  cook  for  five  minutes;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  a  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer.  Serve  poured  over  fillets  of 
beef  or  steaks,  place  over  six  slices  of  beef  marrow,  previously  parboiled  for  half  a 
minute.  • 

Cardoons   for   Garnish. 

Select  white  and  sound  cardoons,  cut  them  into  lengths  of  three  inches  each, 
remove  all  the  prickly  part  from  the  sides,  plunge  them  into  a  basin  of  water  and 
blanch  for  twenty  minutes.  Take  them  out,  rub  off  the  skin,  put  them  on  a  wire  sieve 
on  an  oval-shaped  saucepan,  cover  them  over  with  very  thin  slices  of  bacon  and  pour 
over  a  mixture  made  with  flour,  clarified  broth-fat  and  stock;  then  add  one  onion, 
two  cloves,  one  faggot,  a  little  pepper  and  salt  to  suit  taste  and  a  few  slices  of  lemon 
minus  the  pips.  Place  the  pan  on  the  side  of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  until  done. 
Remove,  drain,  and  they  are  then  ready  for  use. 

Carrots   for   Garnish. 

Blanch  some  young  carrots  in  boiling  water,  rub  off  their  skins  and  trim  them 
with  a  knife  in  equalized  pear  shapes;  then  drain  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
some  chicken  consomme,  add  some  salt,  pepper  and  sugar  and  boil  till  they  are  done. 
Reduce  the  liquor  so  as  to  glaze  the  carrots,  and  serve. 

Cepes   for   Garnishing. 

Cut  four  cepes  into  pieces,  and  cook  them  in  a  stewpan  for  three  or  four  minutes, 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil  and  half  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic.  Moisten  with 
one-half  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  and  serve. 

Chambord  Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  mushrooms,  fish  quenelles,  Geneva  sauce,  truffles,  crayfish,  carp's 
soft  roes,  and  villeroy  sauce,  prepared  as  follows:  Cook  some  whole  mushrooms  and 
prepare  small  fish  quenelles,  moulding  them  with  teaspoons,  and  when  these  are 
ready,  mask  with  Geneva  sauce.  Boil  some  whole  truffles  and  crayfish,  remove  the 
flesh  from  the  tails,  keeping  it  whole,  and  cook  also  some  carp's  soft  roes  in  villeroy 
sauce.  Arrange  these,  garnished  in  heaps,  alternately  with  whole  crayfish  round  the 
dish.  * 


GARNISHINGS.  555 

Chicken   Livers   for   Garnish. 

Blanch  the  livers  of  four  chickens  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes,  and  put  them 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  gravy,  adding  a  saltspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  a 
bunch  of  thyme,  a  little  parsley  and  a  wineglassful  of  white  wine.  Place  the  pan 
over  a  good  fire,  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  drain  them,  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Chipolata   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  chestnuts,  onions,  mushrooms  and  chipolata  sausages,  prepared 
as  follows:  Blanch  and  cook  in  rich  broth  some  chestnuts,  glaze  a  few  small  onions, 
and  cook  some  mushrooms  in  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Arrange  them  with  the 
sausages  round  the  dish,  and  mask  with  Madeira  sauce. 

Chivry   Garnish. 

This  consists  of  oysters,  potatoes,  crayfish,  mussels,  villeroy  sauce  and  bread- 
crumbs prepared  as  follows:  Take  some  oyster  bouchees  and  potato  croquettes;  boil 
some  crayfish  and  remove  the  tails,  leaving  the  shells  on;  mask  some  mussels  with 
villeroy  sauce,  cover  with  breadcrumbs  and  fry  them  in  boiling  fat.  Arrange  in 
small  heaps  round  the  dish. 

Commodore   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  crayfish,  truffles,  mussels,  villeroy  sauce  and  breadcrumbs  as  fol- 
lows: Prepare  equal  quantities  of  crayfish  croquettes  and  quenelles,  the  latter  highly 
seasoned  with  cayenne  and  masked  with  matelote  sauce  and  boil  some  large  whole 
truffles.  Dip  the  required  quantity  of  mussels  into  villeroy  sauce,  cover  them  with 
seasoned  breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  boiling  lard  or  other  fat.  Arrange  the  garnish  in 
small  heaps  round  the  dish. 

Crayfish   for    Garnish. 

Take  the  desired  number  of  crayfish  and  plunge  them  into  boiling  salted 
water  in  which  a  few  chopped  vegetables  together  with  a  little  vinegar  have  been 
cooked.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  eight  or  ten  minutes  longer.  Toss 
them  in  the  pan  frequently  until  they  are  done. 

Durand   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  bacon,  ham,  sweetbreads,  Spanish  sauce,  truffles,  mushrooms, 
chicken  quenelles,  olives,  cockscombs,  beef  palates,  chicken  livers,  eggs,  crayfish 
tails,  oysters,  gherkins,  and  sweet  herbs  prepared  as  follows:  Place  a  large  slice  of  fat 
bacon  in  a  saucepan,  when  melted,  remove  any  lean  that  there  may  be  and  add  a 
slice  of  ham  cut  into  small  slices,  a  lump  of  fresh  butter,  and  either  a  calf's  or  lamb's 
sweetbread  cut  into  large  dice;  moisten  with  Spanish  sauce  and  the  dripping  from  a 


556  GARNISHINGS. 

roasted  leg  of  mutton  carefully  skimmed  and  passed  through  a  tammy.  Add  thick 
slices  of  truffles,  mushrooms,  chicken  quenelles,  stoned  olives  stuffed  with  truffles- 
forcemeat,  boiled  blanched  cockscombs  and  beef  palates,  the  latter  cut  into  dice,  and 
lastly  some  chicken  livers;  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  just  before  serving,  add 
the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  a  few  crayfish  tails  and  four  dozen  oysters  blanched 
and  warmed  for  a  minute  in  mutton  gravy,  and  season  with  gherkins  and  mixed  sweet 
herbs;  when  done,  clear  off  all  grease  and  pour  the  garnish  over  the  joint  it  is  about 
to  be  served  with. 

D'Uxelles   Garnish. 

\ 

This  is  composed  of  fine  herbs  and  Madeira  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Reduce 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  cooked  fine  herbs  with  a  teacupful  of  Madeira  sauce  in  a 
saucepan  on  a  moderately-heated  stove  for  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  it  is  thick. 

Financiere   Garnish. 

For  this  cockscombs,  sweetbreads,  forcemeat  quenelles,  artichoke  bottoms,  mush- 
rooms and  truffles,  prepared  as  follows,  are  used:  Take  three  cockscombs  and  blanch 
by  steeping  them  in  boiling  water,  dry  and  rub  off  the  skin,  soak  them  in  water  for 
several  hours,  dry  and  stew  them  in  butter,  lemon  juice  and  a  little  salt,  moistening 
with  a  small  quantity  of  stock.  When  boiling  add  three  lambs'  sweetbreads,  six 
forcemeat  quenelles,  five  artichoke  bottoms,  six  mushrooms  and  six  truffles  sliced. 
The  garnish  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Flemish   Garnish. 

This  is  made  with  a  cooked  knuckle  of  ham,  boiled  bacon,  sausages,  German 
sausage,  boiled  carrots  and  turnips,  and  glazed  onions.  The  larger  part  of  the  garnish 
is  composed  of  well-boiled  white  cabbages  which  have  been  thoroughly  dried  in  a 
saucepan;  Brussels  sprouts  may  also  be  used.  This  is  an  excellent  garnish  for  rump 
steak,  tenderloin  of  beef  or  roasted  ham. 

Garnish   for   Game. 

This  is  composed  of  calf's  kidneys,  ham,  parsley,  tarragon  and  seasoning,  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Scald  half  a  calf's  kidney  and  two  small  slices  of  ham  and  cut  them 
into  little  pieces.  Put  three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  and  when  it  is  hot  lay 
in  the  meat;  add  a  little  parsley  and  tarragon,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  three 
slices  of  lemon.  Fry  until  the  liver  is  of  a  light  brown  color  and  a  little  gravy  has 
run  from  it. 

Godard   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  truffles,  cockscombs,  sweetbreads  and  forcemeat  quenelles  sea- 
soned and  prepared  as  follows  :  Boil  the  required  quantity  of  truffles,  cockscombs 


GARNISHINGS.  557 

and  sweetbreads  studded  with  fillets  of  truffles  separately,  in  rich  stock  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  also  in  the  same  liquor  some  large  forcemeat  quenelles. 
Arrange  this  garnish  in  small  heaps  round  the  dish. 

Gourmet   Garnish. 

This  is  composed  of  artichoke  bottoms,  mushrooms,  truffles,  beef  palates  and 
Madeira  wine  and  sauce,  prepared  as  follows :  Cut  a  cooked  artichoke  bottom,  either 
fresh  or  canned  into  six  pieces  of  equal  size,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  four 
mushrooms,  two  truffles  and  a  small  quantity  of  cooked  beef  palate,  all  cut  into  dice; 
add  half  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Pour  in  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  Madeira  sauce,  cook  for  five  minutes  longer,  and  it  is  then  ready 
for  use. 

Green   Peas  for  Garnish. 

Boil  the  required  quantity  of  green  peas  in  salted  water,  taking  care  not  to  cook 
them  too  much,  drain,  put  them  into  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter,  and  toss  them 
over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes. 

Puree  of  Green    Peas  for  Garnish. 

Put  the  peas  in  a  saucepan  with  a  few  sprigs  of  mint  and  parsley,  a  small  onion, 
a  little  salt,  cover  with  water,  and  boil  until  tender.  Drain  and  rub  them  through  a 
fine  hair-sieve,  moisten  with  clear  stock,  bringing  them  to  the  consistency  of  a  thick 
puree.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  mix  well 
over  the  fire,  then  stir  in  the  puree  of  peas.  Stir  over  the  fire  again  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  and  when  thoroughly  hot  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

Leeks   for   Garnish. 

Wash  the  leeks  and  trim  them,  cutting  off  the  green  close  to  the  white.  Place 
them  in  salted  hot  water  and  parboil.  Drain,  dry  in  a  cloth,  and  cut  them  up  rather 
small;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  sufficient  stock  to  moisten,  and  stew  gently  until  done;  then  mix  in  a  little 
cream,  or  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up  with  a  little  milk. 

Mariniere   Garnish. 

This  is  a  fish  garnish  composed  of  mussels,  crayfish,  truffles  and  fish  quenelles,  as 
follows:  Blanch  some  mussels  and  trim  them;  boil  some  truffles  and  crayfish,  removing 
the  tails  and  keeping  them  whole;  prepare  some  fish  quenelles  highly  seasoned  with 
cayenne.  Put  some  veloute  sauce  into  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  of  the  liquor  in  which 
the  mussels  were  blanched;  let  it  thicken  over  the  fire,  then  add  the  mussels,  etc.,  and 
stir  until  hot. 


558  GARNISHINGS. 

Matelote   Garnish. 

This  is  composed  of  carp's  soft  roes,  mussels,  crayfish,  mushrooms,  truffles  and 
onions,  prepared  as  follows:  Boil  some  soft  roes  of  carp,  blanch  some  mussels,  cook 
some  crayfish,  and  take  out  the  meat  from  the  tails,  keeping  them  whole;  glaze  some 
truffles,  mushrooms  and  small  onions.  Should  the  garnish  be  required  to  be  dished 
in  heaps,  matelote  sauce  must  be  served  in  a  sauceboat;  but  if  it  is  to  be  served  other- 
wise, all  the  ingredients  should  be  put  into  a  sautepan  with  some  matelote  sauce,  and 
stirred  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  so  as  to  thicken  the  sauce. 

Milanese   Garnish. 

This  is  composed  of  truffles,  mushrooms,  beef  tongue,  rice  and  cheese,  cooked 
as  follows  with  Madeira  and  tomato  sauces:  Cut  two  truffles,  six  mushrooms,  and  an 
equal  quantity  of  cooked  smoked  tongue  into  pieces;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiled  rice,  a  half  pint  of  each  of  tomato  and  Madeira  sauces, 
one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese 
(either  Parmesan  or  Gruyere).  Cook  for  ten  minutes  before  using. 

Montebello    Garnish. 

For  this,  truffles  with  tomato  and  bearnaise  sauce  are  prepared  as  follows  :  Pour 
one  pint  of  tomato  sauce  in  a  saucepan  and  add  an  equal  quantity  of  Bearnaise  sauce 
and  three  sliced  truffles;  place  the  saucepan  in  the  bain-marie,  warm  up  without  boil- 
ing, and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Mushroom  Garnishing. 

Mince  twelve  mushrooms  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  Madeira 
sauce.  Cook  for  five  minutes  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Stewed  Mushrooms  for  Garnish. 

Clean  and  wash  one  pound  of  mushrooms,  and  cut  them,  with  their  stalks,  into 
slices  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
fryingpan  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is  quite  hot,  without  being  colored,  add 
the  mushrooms,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  toss  for  four  or  five  minutes.  Then 
sprinkle  with  one  ounce  of  flour, 'and  toss  them  again  for  one  minute  longer;  add  one 
teacupful  of  broth,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  minced  parsley  and  shallot,  and  when 
they  are  of  a  light  brown  color  they  are  done  and  ready  for  use. 

Normandy  Garnish. 

This  consists  of  fish  quenelles,  mussels,  oysters,  crayfish  tails,  mushrooms  and 
Normandy  sauce,  as  follows:  Prepare  the  required  quantity  of  quenelles,  moulded 


GARNISHINGS. 

with  teaspoons,  made  of  any  kind  of  fish  forcemeat,  also  blanch  as  many  mussels  and 
oysters  as  are  wanted;  cut  some  cooked  mushrooms  in  rather  thick  slices  and  have 
ready  some  boiled  crayfish  tails  taken  out  of  the  shells.  Put  the  whole  of  these  into 
a  fryingpan  with  sufficient  thick  Normandy  sauce  to  moisten,  and  stir  them  over  the 
fire  until  hot.  The  garnish  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Olives    for  Garnish. 

Remove  the  stones  from  some  olives  by  cutting  them  round  and  round  in  a  spiral 
form  so  that  the  olives  may  keep  their  shape.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan,  pour  in  stock 
and  Chablis  wine  in  equal  proportions  to  cover,  and  stew  slowly  until  they  are  done. 
Salmis  of  duck  is  generally  garnished  with  this. 

Onion   Garnish  for    Fricassee. 

Cut  off  a  thin  slice  from  both  ends  of  two  dozen  large  onions,  put  them  into  one 
quart  of  boiling  water  and  blanch  for  ten  minutes.  Take  them  out,  drain,  and  when 
they  are  cold,  remove  the  yellow  and  first  white  skins;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water,  and  a  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  sugar;  boil  slowly 
until  done;  remove  and  drain,  and  they  are  ready  for  use.  They  should  be  put  into 
the  fricassee  at  least  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Parisian    Garnish. 

This  consists  of  Madeira,  mushrooms  and  truffles  prepared  as  follows:  Put  half  a 
wineglassful  of  Madeira  into  a  saucepan  with  six  sliced  mushrooms  and  three  sliced 
truffles  and  cook  for  four  minutes;  then  add  a  breakfast  cupful  of  Madeira  sauce,  cook 
for  five  minutes  longer,  and  use  as  required. 

Peasant    Garnish. 

This  is  composed  of  carrots,  cucumbers  and  smoked  sausages  prepared  as  follows: 
Peel  some  large  carrots,  cut  them  into  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  blanch  and 
braise  them.  Have  ready  also  some  broiled  small  sausages  and  cooked  stuffed 
cucumbers,  all  cut  .nto  thickish  slices.  Arrange  the  slices  alternately,  overlapping 
each  other  round  the  dish. 

Providence   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  cooked  mushrooms,  small  truffles,  quenelles,  and  rounds  of 
goose's  fat  livers,  also  stoned  and  blanched  olives.  Put  them,  when  ready,  into  a 
sautepan  with  Madeira  sauce,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thickened. 


560  GARNISHINGS. 

Provincial   Garnish. 

This  garnish  is  prepared  with  cooked  mushrooms  and  stuffed  tomatoes,  arranged 
round  the  dish  in  alternate  groups.  It  can  be  served  with  almost  any  entree,  and 
should  be  accompanied  with  Madeira  sauce. 

Regency   Garnish. 

This  consists  of  fish  quenelles,  truffles,  crayfish  tails,  cock's  kidneys  and  mush- 
rooms, as  follows:  Prepare  some  large  fish  quenelles  decorated  with  truffles,  also 
some  cocks'  kidneys  and  crayfish  tails.  Cook  some  mushrooms,  mask  them  with 
Regency  sauce  and  glaze  some  whole  truffles.  Arrange  in  separate  heaps  around  the 
dish. 

Rouennese   Garnish. 

This  garnish  is  composed  of  turnips  seasoned  and  cooked  with  Spanish  sauce  as 
follows:  Cut  three  turnips  into  six  pieces  each  with  a  vegetable  cutter,  put  them  in 
a  sautepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  sprinkle  over  a  little  powdered  sugar,  put  on 
the  lid,  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  shaking  the  pan  frequently.  Moisten 
with  one  pint  of  Spanish  sauce,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  cook  for  twenty  minutes 
longer,  skim  off  the  fat  and  use  when  required. 

Smelts  as   Garnish. 

Clean  and  draw  the  smelts,  fasten  the  tails  in  the  openings  at  the  gills  with  small 
wooden  skewers  so  as  to  form  rings,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  finely-grated 
breadcrumb,  put  them  in  a  frying-basket  and  then  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat. 
When  nicely  browned,  drain  the  fish,  remove  the  skewers  and  they  will  retain  their 
ring  shape. 

Soubise  .  Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  onions  prepared  with  broth  and  bechamel  sauce  as  follows:  Cut  up 
three  onions,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  half  a  breakfast  cupful 
of  white  broth,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  level  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  cover 
the  saucepan  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Add  two  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  and  boil  for  five  minutes  longer.  Strain  through  a  cloth, 
pour  it  back  into  the  saucepan,  add  more  seasoning  if  required,  also  a  little  grated 
nutmeg  and  a  little  warm  milk  should  it  be  too  thick;  warm  up  again  and  use  as  re- 
quired. 

St.  Nazaire   Garnish. 

This  garnish  usually  served  with  fish  is  made  up  of  fine  herbs  cooked  as  follows: 
Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  court  bouillon  into  a  saucepan  with  a  wineglassful  of 
white  wine,  a  tablespoonful  of  cooked  fine  herbs,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  allemande 


GARNISHINGS.  561 

sauce,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  warm  it  all  up.      Pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish  it  is 
to  be  served  with  and  garnish  with  eight  hot  clams. 

Supreme   Garnish. 

This  is  made  up  of  rice,  fowl  and  truffles,  seasoned  and  cooked  as  follows:  Wash 
thoroughly  two  ounces  of  rice,  drain  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  white  broth  or  stock.  Pound  the  flesh  from  the  wing  of  a  cooked  fowl  in 
a  mortar,  add  to  it  the  rice,  season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  white  pepper  and  cook  over  a  moderate  fire  for  thirty  minutes;  strain  through  a 
fine  hair-sieve,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  warm  slowly  on  the  stove  without  boiling.  Arrange  this 
garnish  in  an  artistic  crown-shape  round  a  hot  dish,  place  the  supreme  in  the  center 
and  ornament  the  garnishing  with  thin  slices  of  truffles;  dip  a  little  meat-glaze  over 
it  with  a  light  hair  brush,  and  serve.  Supremes  of  partridges,  quails  or  sweetbreads 
can  all  be  served  with  this  garnish. 

Tomatoes   for   Garnishing. 

Put  six  or  eight  large  tomatoes  at  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan,  laying  them  flat  and 
not  one  on  top  of  the  other,  pouring  over  enough  gravy  to  cover  them.  Cook  slowly 
for  about  twenty-five  minutes,  turning  so  as  to  leave  them  equally  done,  but  not  to 
injure  them.  Thicken  the  liquor  with  a  little  butter  rolled  in  flour,  season  with  a 
little  cayenne  and  salt,  boil  up  once,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  take  out  the 
tomatoes,  and  they  are  then  ready  for  use. 

Toulouse   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  goose's  fat  liver,  mushrooms,  sweetbreads,  sheep's  kidneys  and 
truffles,  prepared  as  follows:  Cut  some  slices  from  a  cooked  goose's  fat  liver,  having 
them  of  uniform  size  and  shape;  keep  them  hot  over  the  fire  in  a  buttered  sautepan,  and 
before  using,  slightly  glaze  them.  Cook  some  mushrooms  in  butter  and  lemon  juice, 
braise  some  sweetbreads,  and  poach  (or  cook  in  water)  some  sheep's  kidneys,  masking 
all  of  them,  when  ready,  with  veloute  sauce.  Trim  some  truffles  as  round  as  possible; 
boil  them  in  wine  and  a  small  quantity  of  meat  or  fowl  glaze,  and  afterwards  brush 
them  over  with  butter.  A  tureenful  of  Toulouse  sauce  should  accompany. 

Turtle   Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  mushrooms,  truffles,  brains,  beef  palates,  olives,  gherkins  and 
chicken  quenelles,  as  follows:  Prepare  and  cook  some  mushrooms,  large  whole  truffles 
and  brains,  also  small  rounds  of  beef  palate,  chicken  quenelles  moulded  with  tea- 
spoons, stoned  olives  and  small  balls  of  gherkins,  cut  out  with  a  cutter.  Put  the 
mushrooms,  truffles,  palate,  quenelles  and  olives  into  a  sautepan  with  a  little  of  the 


562  GARNISHINGS. 

liquor  from  the  turtle  it  is  to  be  served  with;  let  it  thicken  over  the  fire,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use.  The  brains  and  gherkins  are  arranged  on  the  top  of  the  other 
ingredients. 

Truffles   for   Garnish. 

Choose  large  round  truffles,  wash  them  thoroughly,  and  peel  them ;  put  the  re- 
quired number  into  a  saucepan,  pour  over  sufficient  chicken  broth  or  champagne  to 
nearly  cover  them,  add  an  onion  stuck  with  three  or  four  cloves,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and.  a  little  of  the  skimmings  of  the  chicken  broth  or  fat. 
Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  with  the  lid  on  the  pan ; 
then  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  let  the  truffles  cool  in  their  liquor.  Remove  them, 
drain,  and  they  are  ready  for  use.  Or  they  may  be  boiled  for  ten  minutes,  and  then 
cut  into  various  shapes.  The  trimmings  from  them,  after  they  have  been  cooked, 
may  be  employed  in  making  sauce,  as  well  as  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  cooked. 

Turnips  for  Garnish. 

Peel  the  turnips,  and  then  cut  them  to  any  fancy  shape  desired,  such  as  corks, 
balls,  etc.  Blanch  them  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes,  leave  them  till  cool, 
drain,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  broth  to  cook  them  in;  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  and  boil  the  turnips  till  they  are  Vather  soft.  They 
are  then  ready  for  garnish. 

Valencia  Garnish. 

This  is  made  of  a  truffle,  mushrooms,  beef- tongue  and  rice  prepared  as  follows: 
Cut  a  truffle,  three  mushrooms  and  a  very  little  cooked  tongue  into  shreds,  add  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  boiled  rice,  put  them  all  into  a  saucepan  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  tomato  sauce,  a  third  of  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  when  it  is  ready 
for  use. 

Vanderbilt  Garnish. 

This  is  prepared  with  green  peppers,  tomatoes  and  shrimps  as  follows :  Peel  and 
chop  a  green  pepper,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tomato  cut  into  small  pieces,  one 
ounce  of  butter  and  eighteen  picked  and  minced  shrimps ;  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Vegetable   Garnish   for   Soups. 

Small  branches  of  cauliflower,  very  small  onions,  celery  cut  into  shapes,  cardoons 
treated  in  the  same  manner,  lettuce,  spinach  or  sorrel  leaves,  may  be  used  for  this, 
one  or  more  kinds  of  them  at  a  time.  Cook  the  vegetables  in  a  small  quantity  of 
clear  soup,  and  pour  it  into  the  tureen  but  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 


GARNISHINGS.  563 

Fried    Parsley. 

Carefully  pick  the  stems  from  the  parsley,  wash,  dry  it  on  a  cloth,  put  it  into  a 
frying  basket,  and  then  into  hot  fat,  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes,  taking  care  that  the 
fat  is  not  too  hot,  or  the  parsley  will  lose  its  color  and  be  spoiled.  The  fat  that 

croquettes  have  been  fried  in  is  best  for  it. 

/» 

Puree  of  Chestnuts. 

Take  off  the  outer  skins  of  some  chestnuts,  put  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and 
boil  for  a  few  minutes  with  a  little  salt  to  season.  Take  them  off,  put  into  cold  water 
and  remove  the  skins.  Put  the  chestnuts  in  a  pan  with  a  quart  of  broth,  put  on  the 
fire  until  boiling,  then  move  to  the  side  and  boil  slowly  until  tender.  When  cooked 
rub  the  chestnuts  through  a  wire  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  put  them  back  with 
the  remainder  of  the  liquid  to  the  saucepan,  put  in  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  a  small 
lump  of  butter,  and  boil  them  up  again. 

Beef  Marrow    Quenelles. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  marrow  into  a  basin  with  an  equal  quantity  of  bread- 
crumbs, add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  work  it  into  a 
smooth  paste  with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  the  white  of  one.  Take  it  out. a  little  at 
a  time,  poach  in  boiling  salted  water,  drain  them,  trim  them  round  and  serve  very  hot 

Calfs   Liver  Quenelles. 

Steep  a  thick  layer  of  bread  in  milk  until  well  soaked,  then  squeeze,  mix  it  with 
half  a  pound  of  finely-minced  calf's  liver,  and  season  with  parsley,  chives  and  lemon 
peel,  in  small  quantities  and  all  finely  chopped;  dust  in  salt  and  pepper  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  bind  the  mixture  with  beaten  eggs.  Divide  it  with  a  table- 
spoon into  small  quantities,  mould  them  into  an  oval  shape.  Plunge  the  balls  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Chop  some  bacon,  place  it  in  a 
fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  fry  it  until  brown.  When  the  quenelles  are 
cooked  pour  the  hot  bacon  and  fat  over  them,  and  serve. 

Chicken  Quenelles. 

Mix  together  one  teacupful  each  of  breadcrumbs  and  finely-pounded  cooked 
chicken;  season  highly  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  moisten  with  raw  egg  yolks  to 
bind  it.  Mould  into  little,  olive-shaped  pieces  between  two  spoons;  then  either  roll 
the  quenelles  in  egg  and  cracker  dust  and  fry  them,  or  poach  them  until  they  float  in 
boiling  broth  or  water,  and  use  them  as  desired. 


564  GARNISHINGS. 

Dutch  Quenelles. 

Make  some  forcemeat — either  game,  chicken  or  veal — place  it  in  a  mortar,  beat 
it  well,  and  mix  in  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Line  a  plain  mould  with  some  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon,  fill  it  with  the  forcemeat  and  press  well  down.  Put  the  mould  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  boiling  water  to  three-fourths  its  height,  and  steam  the  contents  for  about 
an  hour  and  a  half.  When  cooked,  turn  the  quenelle  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  removing 
all  the  bacon,  brush  it  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  melted  glaze,  and  serve  with 
a  sauceboatful  of  brown  sauce. 

Quenelles  for   Soups   Entrees. 

Put  into  a  basin  the  half-boiled  yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  their  weight  of  hot  boiled 
potatoes,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  and  salt, 
and  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  and  mash  all  well  together.  Make  the  mixture  into  balls 
the  size  of  cherries,  using  flour  on  the  hands,  drop  these  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling 
water  and  poach  for  a  minute  or  two;  then  take  them  up  with  a  skimmer  and  drop 
them  into  the  soup  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

Herb  and   Forcemeat  Quenelles. 

Mix  together  in  equal  quantities  some  celery,  parsley,  chervil  and  green  onions 
with  a  little  tarragon  and  double  their  united  bulk  in  spinach  leaves.  The  latter 
should  be  washed  in  a  number  of  waters  to  remove  the  grit.  Place  the  herbs  in  a 
saucepan  with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes.  When  soft 
drain,  put  them  in  a  bowl  of  cold  salted  water,  strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and 
chop  them  fine.  Make  about  two-thirds  of  their  quantity  of  fowl  or  veal  force- 
meat, season  it  well  and  mix  with  the  herbs.  Form  the  mixture  into  small  egg- 
shaped  quenelles  using  two  teaspoons  for  the  purpose,  and  dipping  them  into  warm 
water  each  time.  Throw  the  quenelles  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water  and 
boil  until  firm.  Drain  them  and  serve  in  a  soup  tureen  with  any  kind  of  soup. 

Turtle  Quenelles. 

Remove  all  the  gristle,  etc.,  from  about  twelve  or  fourteen  ounces  of  turtle  steak, 
cut  it  into  pieces,  place  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  well  and  then  rub  them  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Prepare  a  bread  panada  by  working  the  crumb  of  a  loaf  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  ounce  of  butter,  stirring  well  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  does  not  adhere 
either  to  the  spoon  or  the  pan.  Place  the  turtle  puree  back  into  the  mortar,  add  one- 
half  pound  of  bread  panada  and  six  ounces  of  butter;  work  them  well  together,  adding 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  the  whites  of  three  eggs  and  the  yolks  of  five,  a 
small  quantity  of  powdered  basil  and  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Form 
the  quenelles  into  shape  with  two  tablespoons,  plunge  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boil- 


GARNISHINGS.  565 

ing  consomme  or  rich  broth,  and  poach.  When  done  remove  them,  arrange  them  in 
a  heap  or  a  pyramid  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  quantity  of  rich  perigord  sauce  in  a 
sauceboat. 

Ravioles  of    Game  in    Consomme. 

Remove  the  skin  and  sinews  from  two  fillets  of  any  uncooked  game,  chop  the 
latter  up  and  pound  in  a  mortar  with  half  their  bulk  each  of  cooked  calf's  brains,  raw 
beef  marrow,  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  form  the 
mass  into  a  stiff  paste,  and  with  it  prepare  sixty  or  seventy  ravioles.  Plunge  them  into 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  boil  for  one  or  two  minutes,  remove  the  pan  from  the 
fire,  cover  it  over  and  let  the  ravioles  remain  for  another  two  or  three  minutes.  Take 
them  out,  drain,  put  them  in  a  soup  tureen,  pour  over  two  or  three  quarts  of  game 
consomme,  and  serve. 

Salpicons. 

This  is  a  French  name  given  to  a  mince  of  chicken  or  game  with  tongue,  mush- 
rooms, truffles,  and  sometimes  foies  gras,  generally  used  as  a  stuffing.  The  following 
recipes  for  various  salpicons  are  good. 


Salpicon   of  Crayfish. 


Put  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  four  mushrooms,  one  truffle, 
and  the  meat  from  three  crayfish,  all  cut  into  dice;  thicken  well,  let  it  cook  for  five  or 
six  minutes,  and  then  serve. 


Salpicon    Financiere. 

Take  either  the  leg  or  the  breast  of  a  roasted  chicken.  Cut  it  into  dice,  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  one-half  ounce  of  good  butter,  adding  four  mushrooms,  one 
truffle,  one-half  ounce  of  cooked  smoked  beef  tongue  all  cut  in  dice,  and  a  dozen 
small  godiveau  quenelles;  thicken  with  one-half  pint  of  Madeira  sauce,  and  cook  for 
five  minutes.  It  will  then  be  ready  for  use  as  a  garnish. 

Salpicon,    Hunter's   Style. 

Cut  the  breast  of  a  fine,  well-cooked  partridge  into  dice,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  on  a  hot  range,  with  one-half  ounce  of  butter,  one-half  wineglassful  of  good 
sherry,  three  blanched  chicken  livers,  one  truffle,  four  mushrooms,  and  one-half 
ounce  of  cooked,  smoked  beef  tongue,  all  cut  up  into  dice.  Thicken  with  one-half 
pint  of  hot  salmis  sauce,  and  allow  all  to  cook  for  five  minutes.  It  may  then  be  used 
for  garnishing. 


566  GARNISHINGS. 

Salpicon  Montglas. 

Mince,  as  for  a  julienne,  four  mushrooms,  one  truffle,  the  breast  of  a  small, 
cooked  chicken,  or  of  any  game,  and  one-half  ounce  of  cooked  ham,  or  the  same 
quantity  of  cooked,  smoked  beef  tongue.  Put  all  these  into  a  saucepan,  adding  one 
gill  each  of  well-reduced  Madeira  sauce  and  tomato  sauce;  let  this  cook  for  five  or 
six  minutes,  aud  then  use  it  as  required. 

Salpicon  of  Shrimps. 

Put  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan  with  four  mushrooms,  one 
truffle  and  the  meat  from  a  dozen  or  more  large  shrimps,  all  chopped  up  fine. 
Thicken  well,  and  let  it  cook  for  five  minutes;  then  serve. 

Salpicon   with   Madeira. 

Place  one-half  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  adding  one-half  wineglassful  of 
sherry,  a  blanched  throat  of  sweetbread,  cut  into  dice,  four  mushrooms,  one  truffle, 
and  one  ounce  of  cooked  smoked  beef  tongue,  all  cut  the  same  as  the  sweetbread. 
Let  this  cook  for  five  minutes,  then  add  one-half  pint  of  Madeira  sauce,  and  let  it 
cook  again  for  five  minutes.  It  will  then  be  ready  for  garnishing. 


Stuffing. 


The  more  artistic  term  for  this  is  forcemeat.  The  following  recipes  are  those 
generally  in  use  and  others  will  be  found  under  special  headings: 

Stuffing  for   Birds. 

Peel  two  large  onions,  parboil  them,  then  drain  and  chop  them  fine.  Soak  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  in  as  much  milk  as  they  will  absorb  without  becom- 
ing too  soft.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when 
the  butter  is  melted  put  in  the  onions,  breadcrumbs  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  add  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  Add  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  is  reduced  to  a 
paste  without  allowing  it  to  boil.  The  stuffing  is  then  ready.  It  can  be  made  in 
larger  or  smaller  quantities  according  to  the  number  and  size  of  the  birds  to  be 
stuffed. 

Anchovy   Stuffing. 

Put  some  large,  fine-chopped  onions  into  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  oil  or  butter, 
and  fry  them  to  a  light  brown.  Put  them  in  a  basin  and  add  some  breadcrumbs  that 
have  been  dipped  in  water  and  squeezed  quite  dry;  then  add  a  small  piece  of  the  liver 
of  the  bird  to  be  stuffed,  the  fillets  of  seven  or  eight  salted  anchovies,  a  pinch  of 
parsley,  with  a  few  chopped  capers.  Work  these  well  together,  sprinkle  over  a  little 
pepper  and  thicken  the  mixture  with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  when  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Chestnut   Stuffing. 

Peel  a  sound,  good-sized  shallot,  chop  it  up  very  fine,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  on 
a  hot  fire  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  heat  it  for  three  minutes  without 
browning;  then  add  one-fourth  pound  of  sausage-meat  and  cook  for  five  minutes 
longer.  Add  ten  finely-chopped  mushrooms  and  a  dozen  well  pounded  cooked 
peeled  chestnuts  and  stir  all  well  together,  seasoning  with  one  pinch  of  salt,  half  a 
pinch  of  pepper,  one-half  saltspoonful  of  powdered  thyme,  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley.  Let  this  come  to  a  boil,  add  one-half  ounce  of  sifted  bread- 
crumbs and  twenty-five  or  thirty  whole  cooked  and  shelled  chestnuts,  and  mix  all 
well  together,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  chestnuts.  Allow  it  to  cool  and  it  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

Chestnut  Stuffing  for   Turkey. 

Put  a  dozen  or  fifteen  large  chestnuts  into  a  saucepan  of  water,  and  boil  them 
until  they  are  quite  tender ;  then  take  off  the  shells  and  skins,  put  into  a  mortar  and 

567 


568  STUFFING. 

pound  them  Put  four  ounces  of  shredded  beef-suet  into  a  basin,  stir  in  one-half  pound 
of  breadcrumbs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  squeeze  in  a  little  lemon 
juice  Mix  in  a  pound  of  chestnuts,  and  the  stuffing  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Chestnut  Stuffing  with   Truffles. 

Remove  the  dark  or  outer  skins  from  some  chestnuts,  immerse  in  boiling  water 
for  a  few  minntes,  remove  the  light  skins,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Put  in  a 
saucepan  one  pound  of  fat  bacon  and  two  shallots,  and  keep  these  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes.  Then  add  the  whole  chestnuts,  also  one-half  pound  of  chestnuts  prev- 
iously cut  into  small  pieces,  put  in  pepper,  spices  and  salt  to  taste,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  powdered  marjoram  and  thyme.  Hold  it  over  the  fire  a  little  longer, 
turning  it  now  and  then.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Chicken  Stuffing. 

Take  the  heart,  liver  and  gizzard  of  a  fowl,  chop  fine,  season  to  taste  and  mix 
with  boiled  rice  worked  up  with  a  little  butter.  Stuff  the  chicken  with  this. 

Chicken    Liver   Stuffing  for  Birds. 

Chop  half  a  pound  of  fat  chicken-livers  in  small  pieces  and  put  them  in  a  fry- 
ingpan  with  two  finely-chopped  shallots,  two  ounces  of  fat  ham  also  chopped,  a  little 
thyme,  grated  nutmeg,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  lump  of  butter.  Toss  it  about  over 
the  fire  until  partly  cooked,  then  take  it  off  and  leave  until  cold.  Pound  in  a  mortar, 
wjien  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Stuffing  for  Ducks. 

Peel  a  fair-sized  onion  and  a  sour  cooking-apple;  chop  them  both  very  fine, 
and  mix  them  with  six  ounces  of  finely-grated  stale  breadcrumb,  one  scant  table- 
spoonful  of  sage  leaves,  either  powdered  or  finely  minced,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Bind  the  whole  together  with  a  beaten  egg,  and  it  is 
then  ready  for  the  ducks. 

Stuffing  for   Fish. 

Weigh  two  pounds  of  breadcrumbs  without  the  crust,  and  cut  it  into  small  squares; 
mix  them  one-half  tablespoonful  of  powdered  herbs,  and  a  liberal  quantity  of  salt  and 
pepper.  Dissolve  six  ounces  of  butter  in  one-half  pint  of  warm  water,  and  beat  in 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs.  Pour  the  liquid  mixture  over  the  bread  and  stir  it  well,  but 
do  not  mash  it.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Stuffing  for  Fowls. 

Trim  off  all  the  crust  from  two  pounds  of  bread;  put  tne  crumb  into  a  basin  of 
cold  water,  soak  it  for  five  minutes,  then  turn  it  onto  a  sieve  and  drain  well,  pressing 
out  the  water  with  a  plate.  When  nearly  dry,  cut  the  bread  into  small  squares,  and 


STUFFING.  569 

season  it  well  with  powdered  sage,  salt  and  pepper.  Warm  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
butter,  beat  in  an  egg  and  three  teacupfuls  of  warm  water,  and  pour  it  over  the  bread, 
stirring  it  lightly,  but  not  mashing  it.  Allow  it  to  soak  for  ten  minutes,  and  the 
stuffing  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Giblet  Stuffing  for   Turkey. 

Put  the  giblets  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  with  boiling  water  to  cover;  sprinkle 
over  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  boil  gently 
until  tender.  Save  the  water  in  which  the  giblets  were  boiled  to  use  for  gravy.  Chop 
the  giblets  quite  fine;  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  over  the  fire  with  four  ounces  of  butter, 
two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  stale  breadcrumbs  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and 
any  powdered  sweet  herb  except  sage;  stir  all  these  ingredients  together  until  they 
are  of  a  light  brown;  add  a  wineglassful  of  sherry  or  Madeira  wine,  and  the  forcemeat 
is  ready  for  use. 

Stuffing  for  Goose. 

Roast  fifty  chestnuts,  using  care  not  to  let  them  burn;  remove  both  the  inner  and 
outer  peels,  and  chop  them  fine.  Chop  the  goose's  liver,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with 
one-half  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  parsley;  shallots,  chives  and  a  little  garlic, 
and  about  two  ounces  of  butter;  fry  them  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  chopped 
chestnuts  with  one  pound  of  sausage-meat,  and  fry  the  whole  for  fifteen  minutes 
longer.  The  stuffing  is  then  ready  for  the  goose. 

Pickled  Pork  Stuffing  for  Turkeys. 

Chop  up  very  fine  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  and  lean  salted  pork,  break  quite 
fine  a  couple  of  breakfast  cupfuls  of  bread,  and  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  frying- 
pan  with  two  piled  up  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  fry  to  a  brown  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  any  sweet  herbs,  except  sage. 

Potato   Stuffing. 

Cut  same  peeled,  raw  potatoes  into  slices  of  moderate  thickness,  and  then  cut 
into  squares,  rinse  with  cold  water,  drain,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
couple  of  ounces  of  butter,  a  chopped  onion  and  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg;  place  the  lid  on  the 
pan,  keeping  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  shaking  contents  occasionally,  until 
nearly  cooked,  then  chop  fine  an  equal  quantity  of  pig's  liver  and  stir  it  into  the 
potatoes  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

Stuffing  for   Poultry   Galantine. 

Cut  into  small  squares  three  pounds  of  the  cooked  flesh  of  either  ducks  or  fowls; 
peel  and  chop  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  one  medium-sized  onion.     Mix  all  these  to 
gether  with  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  stale  breadcrumbs,  three  well-beaten  eggs  and 


570  STUFFING. 

one-half  breakfast  cupful  of  poultry  fat  that  has  been  warmed.  Season  to  taste  with 
pepper,  salt  and  sage.  After  the  forcemeat  has  been  spread  in  the  boned  duck  or 
other  bird,  about  one  breakfast  cupful  of  chopped  aspic  jelly  strewn  over  it  will  be  an 
improvement,  and  it  will  set  in  the  forcemeat. 

Stuffing  for   Rabbits. 

Peel  two  fair-sized  onions  and  boil;  when  they  are  tender,  drain  and  mince  them. 
Chop  one-half  pound  of  pickled  pork  and  a  few  fine  herbs,  stir  them  in  with  the  on- 
ions, then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  breadcrumbs 
to  make  it  fairly  consistent.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  using  a  very  little 
of  the  latter  on  account  of  the  salt  in  the  pork.  The  stuffing  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Stuffing  for  Suckling   Pig. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  onion  into  a  saucepan  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  oil.  Toss  them  over  the  fire  for  five  or  six  minutes,  add  eight  ounces  of 
rice  boiled  in  stock,  an  equal  quantity  of  sausage-meat,  four  or  five  ounces  of  butter, 
a  small  quantity  of  minced-parsley,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Turn  the  mixture 
into  a  basin  and  add  three  more  eggs  to  make  the  whole  into  a  stiff  paste.  It  is  then 
ready  for  use. 

Truffle  and  Chestnut  Stuffing. 

Peel  off  the  thick  outer  skin  of  the  chestnuts,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
bay  leaf,  a  lump  of  salt,  and  plenty  of  coriander  seeds,  cover  them  with  water  and 
boil  until  nearly  tender.  Drain  the  chestnuts,  and  peel  off  the  inner  skin;  for  every 
half  pound  of  chestnuts,  weighed  after  they  are  boiled  and  peeled,  allow  one-half 
pound  of  fat  bacon,  one-fourth  pound  of  truffles,  and  the  chestnuts,  all  cut  up  into 
small  pieces,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  spices,  and  add  a  little  each  of 
powdered  thyme  and  marjoram,  toss  the  mixture  for  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the 
fire,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Truffle  Stuffing  for  Turkey. 

Brush  well  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  truffles,  peel  them,  mince  the  peel  very 
fine,  cut  the  truffles  into  slices,  put  them  all  into  a  saucepan  with  one-fourth  pound 
of  minced  fat  bacon  and  any  obtainable  fat  from  the  turkey,  also  a  good-sized  lump 
of  butter,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  let  it  get  cold 
before  using.  A  turkey  should  be  stuffed  with  this  three  days  before  it  is  cooked, 
and  truffle  sauce  should  accompany  it. 

Stuffing  for  Boiled  Turkey  or  Rabbit. 

Remove  the  outer  peel  of  one  pouiid  of  chestnuts,  then  put  them  in  boiling  water 
until  the  inner  skins  can  easily  be  removed,  then  trim  them  and  put  them  into  a  small 


STUFFING.  571 

lined  saucepan,  cover  them  with  broth  and  boil  until  the  pulp  and  the  broth  has  been 
well  reduced.  Pass  the  chestnuts  through  a  fine  wire-sieve.  Chop  fine  one-fourth 
pound  of  cold,  boiled  fat  bacon,  and  mix  it  with  the  chestnut  puree;  season  to  taste 
with  salt,  pepper  and  minced  lemon  peel.  The  stuffing  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 

Stuffing  for  Turkey  (Roasted). 

To  one  pound  of  sifted  breadcrumbs  add  one-half  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of 
boiled  and  mashed  potatoes,  and  a  little  marjoram  and  summer  savory  rubbed  to  a 
fine  powder;  add  sufficient  eggs  to  stiffen,  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated 
nutmeg.  A  little  sausage-meat,  grated  ham,  and  a  few  oysters  or  chopped  mush- 
rooms, may  be  added;  they  are  a  marked  improvement,  as  are  also  a  few  walnuts, 
roasted  chestnuts  and  filberts,  and  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon.  A  few  cooked 
truffles  also  improve  it,  and  some  may  also  be  served  in  the  gravy  with  the  bird. 

Turkish   Stuffing  for   Poultry. 

Put  two  handfuls  of  rice  into  a  saucepan  of  water  and  parboil  it;  mix  in  ten  or 
twelve  chestnuts  peeled  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  one  handful  of  pistachio  nuts,  and 
one  handful  of  currants.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter, 
stir  it  well  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  incorporated,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and,  if  liked,  a  little  ground  cinnamon,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  This  stuffing  is 
used  for  turkeys  or  other  birds,  or  anything  else  that  is  roasted  whole. 

Stuffing   for   Veal. 

Trim  off  the  skin  and  mince  fine  one-fourth  pound  of  beef  suet;  mix  with  it 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  breadcrumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  finely-minced  ham,  and  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon.  Season  the 
stuffing  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  bind  it  with  one  beaten  egg.  It  is  then 
ready  for  use. 

Yorkshire   Pudding. 

Take  an  equal  number  of  eggs  and  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  and  when  the 
eggs  are  well  whisked  mix  them  in  with  the  flour,  adding  some  salt  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  and  then  pour  in  as  much  new  milk  as  will  make  a  batter  of  the  consistency 
of  cream.  Stir  the  batter  with  a  fork  vigorously  for  ten  minutes,  and  then  put  it  at 
once  into  a  baking-tin,  which  must  be  very  hot,  and  contain  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls 
of  hot  dripping.  Set  the  pudding  in  an  oven  to  bake,  or  before  the  fire  under  the 
roasting-meat.  When  ready  to  serve  cut  the  pudding  into  squares,  and  send  it  to  the 
table  on  a  separate  dish. 


Eggs  and  Omelets. 

Andalusian    Eggs. 


Poach  six  very  fresh  eggs,  pare  them  neatly  and  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  a 
Duchess  potato  border  browned  in  the  oven.  Cover  the  whole  with  American  sauce 
to  which  has  been  added  a  little  finely-chopped  green  pepper  and  strew  the  surface 
with  a  little  chopped  tarragon.  Serve  while  quite  hot  with  more  of  the  sauce  apart. 

Eggs   and   Artichokes. 

Boil  in  water  twelve  artichoke  bottoms  for  half  an  hour  and  hard  boil  half  the 
quantity  of  eggs.  Cut  as  many  rounds  of  bread  as  there  are  artichoke  bottoms,  mak- 
ing them  about  one  inch  larger  in  diameter;  put  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  flat  stewpan 
and,  when  boiling,  put  in  the  rounds  of  bread  and  fry  until  well  browned.  When 
cooked  drain  the  artichoke  bottoms,  peel  and  cut  the  hard-boiled  eggs  into  halves, 
place  an  artichoke  bottom  on  each  round  of  bread  and  then  half  an  egg,  the  cut  side 
downward.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  over  a  hot  dish, 
arrange  the  toast  and  eggs  tastefully  upon  it,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve 
with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  gravy. 

Eggs   and    Cream. 

Put  one  pint  of  cream  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  it  until  it  is  reduced  to  half  a 
pint.  Beat  up  ten  eggs  and  mix  them  with  the  cream  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  are  curdled;  then  turn  it  out 
onto  a  hot  dish,  put  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg  on  the  top,  brown  under  a 
salamander,  and  serve. 

Ham    and    Eggs. 

Broil  some  thin  slices  of  ham,  and  poach  as  many  eggs  as  there  are  slices  of 
ham.  Put  the  ham  on  a  hot  dish,  with  an  egg  on  each  slice,  and  serve. 

Eggs  and  Olives. 

Remove  the  skins  and  stones  from  six  olives  and  mince  them  together  with  a 
slice  of  cooked  ham.  Have  ready  five  hard-boiled  eggs,  remove  the  shells  and  cut 
off  a  piece  from  each  end  so  that  they  will  stand.  Cut  them  in  halves,  put  the  yolks 
into  a  mortar  with  the  ham  and  olives  and  pound  them  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding 
half  an  ounce  of  butter.  Sprinkle  over  a  little  red  pepper  and  fill  up  the  whites  with 

572 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  573 

the  mixture ;  arrange  them  on  an  ornamented  paper,  decorate  them  with  pieces  of 
toast  and  parsley,  and  serve.  The  half  eggs  should  have  the  appearance  of  cups,  and 
they  may  be  served  without  the  oaper  with  a  little  tartar  sauce  poured  over  them. 

Eggs  as  Tripe. 

Boil  until  hard  a  dozen  eggs  ;  when  cold  tut  into  slices ;  peel  some  small  pickling 
onions,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter,  and  fry  over  a  slow  fire ;  dredge 
over  with  flour ;  pour  in  three-quarters  of  a  breakfast  cupful  each  of  stock  and  cream, 
and  stew  gently  until  tender ;  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  onions 
are  ready,  put  in  the  eggs  and  leave  them  until  hot,  moving  the  stewpan  to  the  side 
of  the  fire.  Turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread, 
and  serve  immediately. 

Egg  Aurora. 

Boil  one  dozen  eggs  until  hard,  take  off  their  shells,  cut  them  in  halves,  remove 
the  yolks  and  run  them  through  a  fine  sieve ;  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  simmer  gently  without  boiling  until  thick,  then 
throw  in  the  whites  of  half  the  eggs,  previously  chopped  fine,  and  stir  well.  Put  the 
remainder  of  the  whites  on  a  dish,  pour  over  the  mixture,  put  a  little  butter  on  this, 
and  melt  it  with  a  salamander.  When  the  butter  is  quite  melted,  serve,  taking  care 
to  keep  it  very  hot. 

Baked  Eggs. 

Boil  eight  eggs  in  a  saucepan  of  water  until  quite  hard;  when  cool  remove  the 
shells.  Cut  the  eggs  up  into  slices;  put  these  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  and  pour 
over  them  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  reduced  with  a  little  gravy;  place  the 
lid  on  the  pan  and  set  it  in  the  bain-marie  or  in  another  large  saucepan  half-filled  with 
boiling  water.  Boil  about  four  handfuls  of  finely-minced  noodles  in  a  saucepan  with 
salted  water;  then  take  out,  drain  and  return  them  to  the  saucepan.  Add  seasoning, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  and  one 
teacupful  of  grated  cheese  (Parmesan  preferred).  Mix  thoroughly  and  pour  about 
three  parts  of  the  mixture  on  a  dish;  make  a  hollow  in  the  center,  pour  in  the  egg- 
mixture,  and  over  these  the  remainder  of  the  noodle-mixture.  Smooth  the  surface 
with  a  knife,  sprinkle  with  a  little  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  then  pour  over  a  small 
quantity  of  melted  butter,  bake  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  serve. 

Eggs,    Bar-le-duc. 

Toast  some  slices  of  bread  and  trim  them  round-shaped;  on  each  one  lay  a  well- 
cooked  artichoke  bottom,  and  over  this  drop  a  poached  egg;  cover  the  whole  with 
some  good  brown  tarragon  sauce,  and  serve. 


574  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

Boiled    Eggs. 

The  eggs  should  be  warm  before  boiling;  that  is,  they  should  not  be  brought 
from  a  cold  place  and  boiled  Plunge  them  into  boiling  water  and  boil  gently  for 
three  minutes,  when  the  yolks  will  be  soft  and  the  whites  a  little  hardened.  The 
whites  will  become  quite  hard  if  boiled  for  exactly  five  minutes  while  the  yolks  will 
remain  soft;  if  boiled  for  three  or  four  minutes  longer  they  will  be  quite  hard.  For 
salads,  they  require  to  be  boiled  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  If  the  eggs  are  very  cold, 
as  they  are  likely  to  be  in  the  winter,  they  can  be  warmed  sufficiently  by  holding 
them  in  steam  If  the  shell  of  an  egg  should  be  cracked,  prick  small  holes  in  the 
thickest  part  of  the  egg  to  prevent  the  contents  from  oozing  out  while  boiling. 

Eggs,   Bonne    Femme. 

Peel  two  onions,  slice  and  fry  brown  in  butter;  then  mix  in  one  dessertspoonful 
of  vinegar.  Butter  a  dish,  spread  the  onions  over  it,  break  over  them  the  required 
number  of  eggs,  and  place  them  in  a  brisk  oven.  When  the  eggs  are  cooked,  cover 
them  with  a  layer  of  breadcrumbs  fried  in  butter,  and  serve. 

Eggs,   Bourgeoise  Style. 

Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread,  trim  off  the  crusts,  lay  them  on  a  thickly-buttered 
dish,  and  cover  with  thin  slices  of  cheese.  Beat  well  sufficient  eggs  to  cover  the 
bread,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  and  pour  them  over  the  slices. 
Put  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  until  the  eggs  are  set.  Serve  while  very 
hot,  in  the  same  dish. 

Canada   Eggs. 

Empty  out  sufficient  of  the  inside  part  of  some  fine  round  fresh  tomatoes  to  have 
each  one  contain  a  raw  egg,  which  is  to  be  broken  into  it,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  cover  the  tomatoes  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  sauce;  place  them  on  a  baking- 
tin  in  a  slack  oven  to  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  serve  on  toasts  the  same  size 
as  the  tomatoes;  pour  a  brown  sauce  around,  and  serve. 


Catherine  Eggs. 


Wash  well  and  bake  some  large  potatoes  in  the  oven;  when  done,  remove,  cut  a 
piece  off  the  tops  and  take  out  sufficient  of  the  insides  to  contain  one  raw  egg  to  each 
potato.  Break  in  the  egg  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  cover  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  cream  sauce  for  each  one.  Place  them  on  a  pan  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  take  out  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  brown  sauce  poured  around. 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  575 

Columbus   Eggs. 

Take  eight  fine  green  peppers,  large  enough  to  contain  one  egg  each;  cut  off  the 
tops  and  empty  them  well,  being  careful  to  extract  every  seed;  stand  them  upright  in 
a  sautepan,  and  break  an  egg  into  each  one,  then  set  the  pan  in  the  oven  for  eight  or 
ten  minutes.  Take  out,  lay  the  peppers  on  toasts  and  pour  a  little  tomato  sauce 
around. 

Eggs,  Creole  Style. 

Fry  one  teaspoonful  of  well-chopped  onion  in  colorless  oil,  an  equal  quantity  of 
finely-sliced  hot  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  clove  of  crushed  garlic  and  a  peeled 
tomato  cut  in  half,  pressed  out  and  cut  up  into  small  squares;  simmer,  reduce  it  and 
when  it  has  attained  a  sufficient  consistency,  add  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of 
crushed  rice,  salt  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Then  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish 
with  this  mixture,  and  break  over  the  eggs  carefully,  keeping  the  yolks  whole,  pour 
over  some  melted  butter,  and  season  with  salt  on  the  white  of  the  eggs,  and  in  the 
middle  of  the  yolks,  place  a  little  melted  butter,  and  cook  until  done  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Egg  Cromeskies. 

Boil  until  hard,  six  eggs,  and  when  cold,  peel  off  the  shells;  mix  together  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  three  dessertspoonfuls  each  of  chopped  parsley 
and  onion,  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  mixed  herbs  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and 
salt,  and  sprinkle  this  over  six  slices  of  lean  bacon,  each  slice  three  inches  wide  and 
eight  inches  long,  Place  a  hard-boiled  egg  on  each,  roll  the  bacon  around  the  egg, 
and  fasten  with  pieces  of  string  or  small  skewers.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Egg   Croquettes. 

Boil  eighteen  eggs  hard,  separate  the  whites  from  the  yolks  after  removing  the 
shells.  Chop  the  whites  small,  and  rub  the  yolks  of  six  of  the  eggs  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve.  Put  two  onions,  cut  into  small  pieces,  in  a  fryingpan  with  four  ounces  of 
butter,  and  fry  but  not  brown;  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  mix  thoroughly, 
pour  in  sufficient  boiling  milk  to  just  moisten  the  whole,  and  season  with  a  little  "salt 
and  pepper.  When  the  sauce  is  ready,  put  in  the  six  yolks  and  the  whites,  stir  well, 
and  let  the  mixture  cool.  Form  it  into  croquettes,  spread  these  over  with  breadcrumbs, 
fry  them  in  boiling  fat  to  a  light  brown,  and  serve.  The  remainder  of  the  yolks  can 
be  used  for  other  purposes. 

Curried  Eggs. 

Peel  six  hard-boiled  eggs  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Put  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
chopped  onions  and  butter  in  a  fryingpan  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  brown;  add  half 


576  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

a  teacupful  of  flour  and   curry  powder   mixed  in  equal  proportions,  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  milk,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  until  the  onions  are  soft, 
then  add  the  eggs.     When  thoroughly  warmed,  turn  all  out  onto  a  dish,  garnish  with 
croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Deviled    Eggs. 

Boil  a  sufficient  quantity  of  eggs  hard;  when  cold,  peel  and  dip  the  first  into 
beaten  raw  egg,  next  into  oil,  and  roll  them  in  salt  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne. 
Make  a  little  tray  by  twisting  up  the  corners  of  half  a  sheet  of  oiled  writing  paper, 
place  the  eggs  in  it,  put  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  shake  it  about  until  the 
eggs  are  quite  hot.  Meanwhile  prepare  equal  quantities  of  olive  oil  and  chutney 
sauce,  pour  the  sauce  around  them,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Easter   Eggs. 

To  color  Easter  eggs  red,  wash  them  thoroughly  and  place  in  a  saucepan  of 
water  with  a  little  cochineal,  carmine  or  logwood,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  When 
done  leave  them  in  the  colored  fluid  for  about  five  minutes;  then  take  them  out,  wipe 
dry  and  rub  over  with  an  oiled  cloth.  Use  spinach  for  green,  saffron  for  yellow.  By 
tying  the  eggs  up  in  the  outside  skins  of  onions,  a  pretty  maize  is  obtained. 

A  pretty  dish  of  Easter  eggs  may  be  prepared  as  follows:  Pour  one  pint  of  cold 
water  over  one  ounce  of  gelatine,  and  let  it  steep  for  four  hours;  add  one  pound  of  sugar 
and  three  pints  of  boiling  milk,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  and  the  gelatine 
are  quite  dissolved;  then  strain  and  divide  into  four  parts.  Stir  into  one  part  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  vanilla-flavored  chocolate;  into  another  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs;  a  little  prepared  cochineal  or  very  red  fruit  syrup  into  the  third,  and  leave 
the  fourth  white,  Flavor  the  white  with  rose-water,  the  red  with  essence  of  almonds, 
the  brown  with  vanilla,  and  the  yellow  with  essence  of  lemon.  Put  the  yellow  portion 
over  the  fire  and  let  it  heat  long  enough  to  cook  the  eggs,  stirring  continually.  Have 
a  dozen  egg-shells  ready,  emptied  .through  a  very  small  hole  made  at  one  end  of  the 
shell,  and  rinse  well  in  cold  water,  changing  it  several  times.  Do  not  drain  or  dry 
them,  as  the  insides  must  be  quite  wet  when  the  shells  are  filled.  Fill  three  shells 
with  each  of  the  mixtures,  standing  them  upright  in  a  pan  of  flour  or  finely-powdered 
salt,  and  let  them  remain  all  night.  On  the  following  day  fill  a  glass  dish  three  parts 
full  with  white  wine  jelly  cut  in  pieces,  and  on  this  arrange  the  eggs,  having  first 
peeled  off  the  shells.  Scatter  among  them  candied  orange  and  citron  peel  cut  into 
thin  shreds. 

Fried   Eggs. 

Put  into  a  fryingpan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  oil;  place  on  the  hot  range, 
heat  it  well,  and  break  into  it  one  egg,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  yolk.  Fold  the 
white  over  the  yolk  with  the  aid  of  a  knife,  and  cook  for  a  quarter  of  a  minute;  turn 
the  egg  over  with  a  skimmer,  and  cook  for  a  quarter  of  a  minute  on  the  other  side; 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  577 

lift  it  out  with  the  skimmer,  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Proceed  in  the  same  way  with 
eleven  more  eggs,  and  they  will  then  be  ready  to  serve.  Mix  one  pinch  of  salt  with 
half  a  pinch  of  white  pepper,  and  season  each  of  the  eggs  with  it  after  they  are  placed 
on  the  dish.  Care  must  be  taken  to  cook  the  eggs  separately,  and  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  minute  on  each  side. 

Fried   Eggs   for   Garnish. 

Pour  half  a  teacupful  of  sweet  oil  into  a  fryingpan;  when  hot,  break  in  one  egg 
carefully,  closing  up  the  white  part  with  a  skimmer  so  as  to  have  it  firm  and  compact, 
and  cook  for  two  minutes.  Only  one  egg  at  a  time  should  be  in  the  pan. 


Eggs 


Fried   in   Batter. 


Poacn  six  or  eight  eggs  in  water,  not  allowing  them  to  get  hard.  Place  on  a 
folded  napkin  to  drain  and  cool.  Put  one  pound  of  fat  into  a  fryingpan,  and  when  it 
is  hot,  fry  some  parsley  with  it.  Dip  each  egg  singly  with  a  large  spoon  in  batter, 
sprinkle  with  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  fry  until  brown  in  the  fat.  Put  the  fried 
parsley  on  a  dish,  arrange  the  eggs  on  it,  squeeze  over  some  lemon  juice,  and  serve. 

Eggs    Fried  in  Brown   Butter. 

Break  the  eggs  gently  on  a  plate  taking  care  not  to  injure  the  yolks,  then  dredge 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan  over  a  brisk  fire;  when 
beginning  to  brown,  move  it  to  the  side;  put  another  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
separate  fryingpan  and  place  over  the  fire  until  hot;  then  place  the  eggs  in  carefully 
to  avoid  breaking  the  yolks,  and  spread  the  brown  butter  over  them.  When  the 
whites  are  set,  turn  the  eggs  out  onto  a  hot  dish;  sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  vinegar 
or  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice  over  them;  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve,  or  they 
may  be  served  on  hot  buttered  toast. 

Fried   Eggs,    Provincial   Style. 

Pour  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  or  warmed  butter  into  a  fryingpan  on  the  fire; 
when  heated,  break  an  egg  into  a  cup,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  drop  it  into  the 
oil,  baste,  turn  it  over,  and  when  of  a  good  color  on  both  sides,  take  out  and  drain  on 
a  wire-sieve.  Cook  twelve  eggs  altogether  allowing  two  minutes  for  each.  When 
all  are  done,  trim  them  and  serve  on  a  dish  with  pieces  of  fried  bread  between  them 
Pour  over  one-half  pint  of  reduced  Spanish  sauce  with  the  zest  of  a  lemon  and  six 
sliced  mushrooms  added  to  it.  Serve  very  hot. 

Fried    Eggs  with  Bacon. 

Break  a  dozen  eggs  separately  in  cups  being  careful  not  to  damage  the  yolks 
Put  into  a  fryingpan  some  slices  of  fat  bacon,  fry  them,  take  them  out,  boil  the  fat, 


578  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

put  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time  so  they  will  be  able  to  be  taken  apart  and  fry  them  well 
but  not  to  be  too  much  done.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt  and  pepper  over  and  place  on 
some  slices  of  bacon  on  a  dish;  or  if  preferred,  they  may  be  put  in  the  center  of  a 
dish  and  the  slices  of  bacon  put  around  as  a  garnish.  Should  there  not  be  enough  fat 
in  the  pan,  add  more.  Although  this  is  a  very  ordinary  dish,  much  care  should  be 
taken  in  preparing. 

Fried   Eggs  with   Black   Butter. 

Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan;  place  on  the  hot  stove  and  allow  to  be- 
come hot  without  browning;  break  twelve  eggs  into  cups  and  slide  them  carefully  into 
the  pan,  season  with  salt  and  white  pepper  and  cook  slowly  for  three  minutes.  Have 
ready  a  hot  flat  dish,  slide  the  eggs  gently  onto  it  without  turning  them  over,  taking 
care  not  to  break  them,  and  set  the  dish  in  a  warm  place.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter 
in  the  saucepan,  place  it  on  the  hot  stove  again  and  let  the  butter  get  a  good  lemon 
color,  which  will  take  about  three  minutes;  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  pour  this 
over  the  eggs,  and  serve  at  once. 

Egg   Fritters. 

Put  four  eggs  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  boil  for  fifteen  minutes;  then  take 
them  out,  plunge  into  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes  and  remove  the  shells;  cut  the 
eggs  lengthwise  in  halves,  separate  the  yolks  and  mix  them  up  with  a  little  pot  of 
meat;  replace  them,  put  the  two  halves  together,  pressing  them  firmly  and  then  cut 
into  quarters  with  a  very  sharp  knife.  Dip  these  in  batter,  plunge  into  boiling  fat  and 
fry;  drain,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  serve  on  a  napkin  on  a  dish. 


Hard-Boiled   Eggs  with   Madeira   Sauce. 

Cut  twelve  hard-boiled  eggs  into  halves  lengthwise,  remove  the  yolks  and  place 
them  in  a  bowl  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies 
and  a  pinch  of  chopped  chives;  beat  these  well,  fill  the  whites  with  the  mixture, 
sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs,  pour  over  a  few  drops  of  clarified  butter  and  put  them  on 
a  buttered  dish  in  the  oven  for  three  minutes.  Serve  with  half  a  pint  of  Madeira 
sauce  poured  over. 

Eggs  in   Aspic. 

Fill  a  mould  to  a  third  of  its  height  with  clear  aspic  jelly;  when  cold  arrange 
some  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  on  the  top,  then  fill  it  three  parts  with  more  liquid 
jelly  and  allow  this  to  set;  arrange  a  layer  of  eggs  as  before  and  fill  to  the  top  with 
more  jelly.  Let  it  set  for  twelve  hours  on  ice  if  possible.  Dip  the  mould  in  tepid 
water,  wipe  it,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  579 

Eggs  in   Cases. 

Make  some  paper  cases  about  three  inches  square,  butter  them  well  inside  and 
half  fill  them  with  sifted  breadcrumbs  seasoned  with  chopped  parsley,  a  small  quan- 
tity of  cayenne  and  salt;  stick  small  pieces  of  butter  over  the  breadcrumbs,  break  an 
egg  into  each  and  add  breadcrumbs  seasoned  as  before  until  the  cases  are  full.  Put 
them  into  an  oven  or  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  for  three  minutes,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Eggs  in   Cocottes. 

Take  some  small  china  cups  (called  cocottes)  and  break  a  new-laid  egg  in  each 
with  a  little  butter;  sprinkle  over  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  set  them  on  hot  ashes  and 
salamander  the  tops  until  the  eggs  are  done  and  quite  soft.  Serve  in  the  cups. 

Eggs  in   Crusts. 

Take  several  thin  rounds  of  bread  and  cut  in  pieces  three  inches  in  diameter,  then 
with  a  small  thin  cutter  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter  cut  the  center  out  of  each 
round,  leaving  an  unbroken  ring.  Melt  a  sufficient  quantity  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan, 
put  in  the  rings,  and  fry  until  slightly  brown.  Butter  a  dish,  lay  the  rings  in  it, 
break  a  raw  egg  into  each  ring,  being  careful  not  to  disturb  the  yolks ;  baste  with  a 
few  tablespoonfuls  of  sour  cream,  and  dust  over  a  small  quantity  .of  salt.  Cover  the 
dish,  put  it  in  the  oven,  and  leave  it  until  the  whites  are  set,  but  they  must  not  be 
allowed  to  brown.  When  cooked,  lift  the  eggs  in  their  rings  carefully  out  of  the 
baking-dish,  using  a  skimmer  for  the  purpose,  and  lay  them  on  a  hot  dish  covered 
with  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  garnish  with  watercresses,  and 
serve. 


Eggs  in  Jelly. 


Boil  ten  or  a  dozen  eggs  until  quite  hard ;  then  peel  and  cut  into  halves,  length- 
wise. Take  as  many  patty-pans  as  there  are  halves  of  eggs,  put  in  each  pan  half  an 
egg.  and  pour  over  sufficient  savory  jelly  to  cover  it ;  lay  a  thin  slice  of  ham  over 
each,  and  leave  them  until  quite  cold  and  the  jelly  is  set.  Turn  the  jelly  out  onto 
an  ornamental  dish,  garnish  with  a  few  sprays  of  parsley,  and  serve. 

Eggs  in   Shells. 

Put  into  a  basin  a  teacupful  of  breadcrumbs  ;  add  a  teacupful  of  finely-minced 
tongue  or  ham,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  ground  mustard,  melted  butter  and  chopped 
parsley ;  then  work  the  mixture  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  little  hot  milk,  and  spread 
it  on  table  shells;  break  some  eggs  carefully,  put  one  on  each  shell;  sprinkle  over  the 
top  biscuit  or  cracker  crumbs,  and  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper ;  pour  a  dessertspoon- 


580  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

ful  of  liquefied  butter  on  each  and  bake  for  five  minutes,  or  until  the   eggs  are  firm 
Arrange  the  shells  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Eggs,    Italian    Style. 

Boil  some  eggs  hard,  cut  them  in  halves,  take  out  the  yolks,  weigh  them,  and 
put  them  in  a  mortar  with  an  equal  weight  of  butter,  and  pound  together  with  a  little 
breadcrumbs  soaked  in  milk  or  cream,  chopped  parsley,  one  anchovy,  a  little  chopped 
onion,  grated  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan,  and  cook  to 
a  thick  paste,  adding  a  little  cream  or  gravy.  Fill  the  cavities  of  the  whites  with  this, 
and  serve  cold  with  a  salad,  or  hot  in  sauce,  or  on  a  puree  of  vegetables. 


Eggs> 


Leo   XIII. 


Make  a  Duchess  potato  preparation  and  form  it  into  the  shapes  of  chicken 
fillets;  just  when  ready  to  serve,  brown  them  in  butter.  Place  them  as  a  border  on  a 
round  dish  and  over  them  lay  a  soft  egg  on  each,  between  each  egg  put  a  very  white, 
cooked  cockscomb.  Fill  the  center  of  the  dish  with  a  garnishing  composed  of 
cocks'  kidneys,  mushrooms  and  olives  mixed  with  supreme  sauce.  Glaze  the  surface 
with  a  salamander  and  serve. 

Egg-loaf,    Princess   Style. 

Butter  thickly  a  small  charlotte  mould,  decorate  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
cooked  asparagus  tops,  thoroughly  dried  on  a  cloth.  Take  two  glassfuls  of  supreme 
sauce,  to  it  add  four  finely-chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and  six  raw  yolks  of  eggs, 
season  it  well.  Fill  the  mould  with  this  preparation  and  steam  it  for  thirty  minutes. 
Turn  the  loaf  out  onto  a  round  dish,  decorate  around  with  fried  bread  croutons,  lay- 
ing a  poached  egg  on  each  one,  cover  with  half  glaze  sauce,  and  serve. 


Eggs,    Lyonese   Style. 


Put  into  a  saucepan  of  water  half  a  dozen  of  eggs  and  boil  until  hard.  Peel 
and  chop  fine  two  medium-sized  onions,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  butter,  and 
fry  until  brown;  pour  half  a  pint  of  broth  over  the  onions;  season  with  salt  and  a 
small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  boil  gently  and  stir  now  and  then  until  reduced  to  a 
rather  creamy  thickness.  Peel  the  hard-boiled  eggs  and  chop  the  whites.  Put  the 
latter  into  the  sauce,  boil  up  once,  and  then  turn  the  whole  out  onto  a  hot  dish. 
Garnish  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  small,  baked  puff  paste  cakes,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Eggs,   Maitre   d' Hotel. 

Boil  until  hard,  six  eggs;  peel  and  cut  into  quarters,  arranging  them  on  a  dish 
that  will  stand  the  heat  of  the  oven;  put  in  some  pieces  of  butter,  sprinkle  a  little 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  581 

chopped  parsley,  tarragon,  chervil,  pepper  and  salt  over,  and  set  the  dish  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Turn  the  eggs  and  cook  a  few  minutes  longer, 
then  take  them  out,  and  serve. 

Married   Eggs. 

Blanch  eight  artichoke  bottoms,  then  cook  them  in  some  gravy.  Make  a  prep- 
aration with  four'  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  up  very  fine,  mix  in  plenty  of  very 
finely-chopped  fine  herbs  that  have  been  parboiled  in  hot  water,  add  three  raw  egg 
yolks,  salt,  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  a  little  tomato  sauce;  mix  all  together  well 
and  cover  the  artichokes  with  this,  smooth  the  surface  nicely  with  the  blade  of  a 
knife,  strew  with  breadcrumbs  and  melted  butter  and  set  them  in  the  oven  for  four 
minutes.  Arrange  them  systematically  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 


Matelote  of  Eggs. 


Put  one  pint  of  either  red  or  white  wine  in  a  stewpan,  the  wine  having  been 
diluted  with  one-third  its  quantity  of  water.  Chop  up  an  onion,  mix  it  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  one  clove  of  garlic  and  boil  in  the  wine  for 
five  minutes;  strain,  put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  and  poach  ten  eggs  in  it.  Arrange 
the  eggs  on  a  dish  when  done.  Thicken  the  wine  with  butter  rubbed  in  flour,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  flour  has  cooked,  pour  over  the  eggs,  and  serve. 

American   Omelet. 

Pour  one  pint  of  veloute  sauce  into  a  sauceboat,  place  it  on  a  moderate  fire,  add 
a  piece  of  lobster  butter  about  the  size  of  an  egg,  together  with  twenty-four  cooked 
and  skinned  shrimps,  and  season  with  salt  and  a  little  pepper.  Cook  for  three  min- 
utes, stirring  slightly;  then  add  half  an  empty  peeled  green  pepper,  finely  hashed, 
cook  for  ten  minutes  longer,  then  let  it  rest  on  the  corner  of  the  stove.  Make  an 
omelet  with  twelve  eggs,  fold  up  the  side  nearest  the  handle  of  the  pan,  pour  half  of 
the  preparation  in  the  center,  fold  the  other  side  over,  turn  the  omelet  onto  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  both  sides  with  the  rest  of  the  shrimps,  pouring  the  remainder  of  the 
sauce  round  the  dish,  and  serve  it  while  it  is  very  hot. 


Anchovy  Omelet. 


Cut  off  a  slice  from  a  stale  tinned  loaf  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
remove  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  pieces  one  inch  square.  Fry  these  lightly  in  oil  or 
butter.  Beat  up  some  eggs  into  an  omelet  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
finely-chopped  parsley.  Pour  half  of  this  into  a  small,  flat,  well-buttered  stewpan, 
and  cook  on  one  side  only;  then  remove,  set  the  pieces  of  bread  over  it,  and  upon 
each  side  of  bread  lay  a  half  inch  of  a  fillet  of  anchovy.  Make  a  second  omelet,  and 
lay  on  top  of  all  the  side  of  the  omelet  which  was  nearest  the  fire  being  uppermost. 


582  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

Set  them  in  an  oven  between  two   plates  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  with  a   little 
Spanish  sauce. 

Bacon    Omelet. 

Take  the  requisite  amount  of  finely-minced  lean  bacon,  and  place  in  a  fryingpan 
with  a  little  butter  or  lard,  and  fry  until  done.  Have  ready  a  sufficient  number  of 
eggs  well-beaten  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  into  the  bacon.  When  cooked,  take 
out  and  serve  on  a  dish. 

Smoked   Beef   Omelet. 

Warm  a  little  finely-minced  beef  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  add  a 
dozen  or  so  beaten  eggs,  making  into  an  omelet. 

Cepes    Omelet. 

Fry  half  a  dozen  cepes  cut  into  small  pieces  in  one-half  ounce  of  butter  for  two 
minutes.  Beat  a  dozen  eggs  in  a  bowl,  season  with  one  pinch  of  salt  and  one-half 
pinch  of  pepper/ pour  them  over  the  cepes,  and  make  an  omelet  as  described  under 
omelets. 

Cheese   Omelet   Baked. 

Cut  some  strips  of  cheese  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  arrange  them 
around  the  sides  of  a  baking-dish  and  spread  sifted  browned  breadcrumbs  over  the 
bottom;  place  thin  slices  of  cheese  over  this,  and  then  three  or  four  eggs,  unbroken, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  spread  on  a  little  grated  cheese  and  finally  another  layer  of 
the  browned  breadcrumbs.  Place  a  few  lumps  of  butter  on  the  top,  set  the  dish  in 
the  oven  and  bake  for  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  eggs  are  quite  firm, 
but  not  hard.  When  done,  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Parmesan   Cheese   Omelet. 

Break  two  eggs  into  a  basin  and  dust  over  with  a  very  little  pepper  and  cayenne. 
Put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  pan  rubbed  over  with  garlic.  When  it  is  boiling,  pour 
in  the  eggs  and  hold  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the  omelet  is  set;  then  put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  on  one-half  of  it,  cover  with  the  other  half,  cook 
for  a  minute  longer,  and  serve  immediately. 

Chicken's   Liver  Omelet. 

After  partially  boiling  the  liver,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan 
with  butter,  two  or  three  button  mushrooms,  a  shallot  and  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley, 
all  finely-minced;  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  them  for  ten  minutes. 
Turn  them  into  a  basin,  and  when  cold,  beat  in  three  eggs.  Put  a  lump  of  butter  in 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  583 

an  omelet-pan,  and  when  melted,  put  in  the  omelet  and  fry  it.     Serve  it  on  a  folded 
napkin  or  a  fancy  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Crab   Omelet. 

Take  six  ounces  of  boiled  crab-meat  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces;  place  them  in 
a  sautepan  together  with  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  about  one-fourth  of  an 
ounce  of  butter.  Dampen  with  one  teacupful  of  strong  hot  bechamel  sauce  and  let 
these  cook  together  for  five  minutes.  Make  an  omelet  with  one  dozen  eggs,  and  with 
the  use  of  a  skimmer,  place  the  stewed  crab  in  the  middle,  fold  over  the  side  oppo- 
site the  handle,  pour  in  the  garnishing,  fold  up  the  other  side,  turn  it  all  onto  a  hot 
dish,  lay  the  sauce  round  it,  and  serve. 

Crayfish   Omelet. 

Take  the  tails  of  two  dozen  boiled  crayfish,  and  cut  them  up  into  dice.  Remove 
the  meat  from  the  claws,  chop  it  up  with  the  trimmings  of  the  tails,  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  fresh  mushrooms;  put  them  into  a  basin,  and  add  ten  eggs,  a  little  salt 
and  nutmeg  to  season,  and  a  small  pinch  of  finely-chopped  parsley;  whip  them  well 
for  three  minutes.  Warm  four  ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelet-pan,  add  the  eggs,  etc.; 
let  it  thicken  a  trifle,  and  then  put  the  tails — previously  mixed  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  white  sauce  reduced  with  a  little  meat-glaze — in  the  center.  When  cooked  remove 
the  omelet,  roll  it  up,  put  it  into  an  oblong  dish,  and  serve. 


Egg 


and   Truffle   Omelets. 


Cut  into  thin  slices  a  small  quantity  of  truffles,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
little  brown  sauce,  and  boil  very  gently.  Prepare  a  sufficient  quantity  of  plain  egg 
omelets,  spread  on  the  truffles,  and  fold  them  up.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  over  a  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  omelets  on  it,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Omelet  of  Green  Peas. 

Break  twelve  eggs  into  a  bowl,  adding  one-half  pint  of  boiled  green  peas,  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  and  beat  well  for  four  minutes,  then  make  it  into  an  omelet. 

Ham   Omelet. 

Mince  two  ounces  of  ham  fine,  taking  lean  and  fat  in  equal  proportions;  put  the 
mince  into  a  basin  with  four  eggs,  and  beat  them  up  well.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter 
in  an  omelet  pan,  and  when  it  has  melted,  pour  in  the  mixture.  Hold  the  handle  of 
the  pan  in  one  hand,  and  stir  the  omelet  with  a  spoon  with  the  other;  when  it  begins 
to  set,  cease  stirring,  shake  the  pan  for  a  few  minutes  until  the  lower  side  of  the 


584  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

omelet  is  browned,  then  fold  it  over  with  a  spoon.     Turn  the  omelet  onto  a  hot  dish 
with  a  folded  napkin,  or  a  fancy-edged  dish-paper,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Kidney   Omelet. 

Boil  a  mutton  or  other  kidney,  and  when  cooked,  cut  it  into  thin  slices.  Beat 
six  eggs  together  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  teacupful  of  milk,  seasoning 
with  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  salt.  Melt  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  pour  in 
the  omelet  mixture,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  firm;  then  lay  the  slices  of  kidney 
on  top,  and  fold  it  over.  When  cooked,  slip  the  omelet  onto  a  hot  dish,  over  which 
has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  at  once. 

Lobster   Omelet. 

Take  six  ounces  of  lobster-meat  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces;  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  butter, 
moisten  with  a  fourth  of  a  pint  of  strong,  hot  bechamel  sauce,  and  let  cook  for  five 
minutes.  Make  an  omelet  with  twelve  eggs,  and  with  a  skimmer  place  the  stewed 
lobster  in  the  middle  of  the  fold  over  the  side  opposite  the  handle,  lay  in  more  gar- 
nishing, fold  the  other  side  up,  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  around,  and 
serve. 

Mushroom    Omelet. 

Either  fresh  or  canned  mushrooms  may  be  used  for  this.  Heat  one  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  mushrooms  in  enough  white  sauce  to  moisten  them,  or  clean  three  fresh 
mushrooms,  and  fry  them  in  just  enough  butter  to  prevent  burning;  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  While  the  mushrooms  are  being  heated  beat  three  eggs  for  half  a 
minute,  together  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper.  Put  the  fryingpan 
over  the  fire,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  butter;  when  the  butter  begins  to  melt  pour  in 
the  eggs,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  set  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  break  the  omelet  a 
little  with  a  fork.  When  it  is  cooked  to  the  desired  degree,  put  the  mushrooms  on 
one  half,  and  fold  the  other  half  over  by  lifting  with  a  broad  knife,  then  loosening  the 
omelet  from  the  pan  without  breaking  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

Oyster   Omelet. 

Put  half  a  dozen  oysters  into  a  saucepan  with  their  liquor  to  scald;  take  them 
out,  drain  and  cut  them  into  quarters.  Meanwhile  put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  into  a 
basin,  beat  them  to  a  cream,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  one  tablespoonful  of  milk,  and  lastly,  the  oysters.  Beat  the  whites 
of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  stir  them  in,  together  with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter.  Put  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  and  when  it  has 
melted  pour  in  the  contents  of  the  basin  and  hold  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  585 

omelet  has  set.  Give  the  pan  a  vigorous  shake,  loose  the  omelet  from  the  bottom 
with  a  knife,  hold  the  pan  in  front  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  to  let  the  upper  part 
set,  then  fold  it  over,  place  it  carefully  on  a  dish,  and  serve  hot. 

Parsley   Omelet. 

Break  two  eggs  in  a  basin,  put  one  tablespoonful  of  milk  with  them  and  beat  up, 
mixing  thoroughly  but  not  making  too  light;  add  a  little  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley  while  beating.  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  clarified  butter  in  a 
small  omelet-pan  and  when  boiling  put  in  the  omelet  preparation;  when  partly  set 
run  the  point  of  a  knife  round  to  loosen  it  and  shake  the  omelet  over  to  the  farther 
side  of  the  pan  until  the  thin  edge,  forced  upward,  falls  back  into  the  omelet.  When 
nicely  browned  underneath  and  the  middle  nearly  set,  roll  the  brown  side  uppermost 
by  the  aid  of  a  knife  and  slide  the  omelet  onto  a  hot  dish.  Serve  at  once. 

Plain   Omelets. 

Beat  six  eggs  well  in  a  basin  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a  little  water. 
Melt  a  large  piece  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  pour  the  beaten  eggs  in  and  stand  it  at 
the  side  but  not  on  the  fire,  turning  it  often.  When  the  edges  are  done  gather  them 
together  and  roll  over  and  over,  .and  serve  them  very  hot. 

Potato   Omelet. 

Peel  and  boil  three  or  four  large  potatoes,  and  when  soft,  drain  and  mash  them ; 
beat  four  eggs  with  a  teacupful  of  milk,  mix  in  with  the  potatoes  and  flavor  to  taste 
with  herbs,  salt  and  a  small  amount  of  pepper.  Cut  four  ounces  of  lean  bacon  into 
small  squares,  and  place  them  in  a  fryingpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  fry  them  until 
crisp  and  brown,  then  mix  in  the  potatoes,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  set  ;  when 
nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  fold  the  omelet  over,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Prawn   Omelet. 

Remove  the  prawns  from  their  shells  and  chop  them  coarse,  place  them  in  a 
basin  with  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  and  three  eggs;  season  to  taste  with  salt, 
pepper  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  beating  all  well  together.  Melt  a 
lump  of  butter  or  clarified  fat  in  an  omelet  pan,  put  in  the  above  preparation  and  fry. 
When  done  spread  a  folded  napkin  or  fancy  dish-paper  over  a  small  dish,  put  the 
omelet  on  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Salmon   Omelet. 

Take  about  two  ounces  of  the  flesh  of  some  cold  boiled  salmon,  and  shred  it  as 
fine  as  possible  with  a  fork,  put  it  into  a  basin  with  one  tablespoonful  of  finely- 


586  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

minced  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  two  or  three  small  pieces  of  butter  ; 
break  in  three  eggs,  and  beat  the  whole  well  together.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in 
an  omelet-pan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  melted  but  not  browned,  pour  in  the 
above  mixture.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  with  a  flat  spoon  until  it  begins  to  set,  then  cease 
stirring  and  toss  it  about  for  a  minute  or  two.  When  delicately  browned  underneath, 
fold  the  omelet  over,  and  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  the  browned  side  uppermost. 
Garnish  the  dish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Sardine    Omelet. 

Have  ready  over  the  fire  a  fryingpan  containing  two  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil. 
Remove  the  skins  and  bones  from  two  sardines,  and  cut  them  into  one-half  inch 
lengths;  beat  the  eggs  with  one-half  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  slight  sprinkling  of 
cayenne  pepper  for  a  minute.  Have  in  readiness  one-half  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice 
or  vinegar.  When  the  oil  is  hot,  pour  the  eggs  into  the  pan,  place  it  over  the  fire, 
and  with  a  fork  slightly  break  the  omelet  on  the  bottom  as  it  cooks,  so  that  the 
uncooked  portion  can  run  upon  the  pan,  but  do  not  tear  the  edges  of  the  omelet. 
When  the  omelet  is  cooked  to  the  required  degree,  and  it  should  not  be  too  well 
done,  lay  the  sardines  on  one  side  of  it,  pour  the  lemon  juice  or  vinegar  over  them, 
fold  the  omelet  together,  enclosing  them,  then  turn  it  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve 
at  once.  The  omelet  should  be  served  the  moment  it  is  done,  as  it  hardens  by 
standing, 


Sausage   Omelet. 


Skin  three  raw  sausages,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one-fourth  ounce  of 
butter;  set  it  on  a  hot  fire  for  five  minutes,  and  stir  well  until  they  are  cooked.  Make 
a  plain  omelet  with  a  dozen  eggs,  fold  over  the  side  opposite  the  handle  of  the  pan, 
lay  the  sausages  in  the  center,  fold  the  other  side  over,  and  serve  with  one-fourth 
pint  of  hot  Madeira  sauce  poured  round  the  omelet. 

Savory   Omelet. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  till  they  are  almost  white,  then  beat  the  whites  for  the 
same  length  of  time,  and  pour  them  over  the  yolks;  add  a  dessertspoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  one  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  pepper  and  salt,  six  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  flour,  and  beat  all  well  together  for  at  least  five  minutes. 
Peel  a  small  onion,  slice,  and  fry  in  butter,  when  the  butter  is  boiling  hot  take  out  the 
onion  and  pour  in  the  omelet.  Hold  the  pan  over  a  clear  fire  in  rather  a  slanting 
position,  to  keep  the  omelet  from  spreading;  when  fried  a  light  brown  fold  it 
over  with  a  slice,  and  serve  very  hot.  A  little  grated  tongue  may  be  mixed  with  the 
omelet  if  desired. 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  587 

Shallot   Omelet. 

Pour  into  a  basin  one  tablespoonful  of  cream,  several  small  lumps  of  butter,  three 
eggs  and  some  chopped  parsley,  seasoning  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt;  peel  and  chop 
three  or  four  shallots,  mix  them  with  the  above  ingredients,  and  beat  well.  Put  a  lump 
of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  and  when  melted  pour  in  the  omelet  mixture.  When  set, 
roll  the  omelet  round,  brown  it  on  one  side,  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  a  little 
sauce  or  rich  gravy,  and  serve. 

Shrimp  Omelet. 

Beat  up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  one  dessertspoonful  each  of  finely-chopped 
onion  and  flour,  a  small  quantity  of  mixed  herbs,  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper,  then 
mix  in  by  degrees  one  teacupful  of  milk.  Beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Have  ready  shelled  one-half  pint  of  shrimps,  turn  them  into  a  shallow  baking- 
dish  and  place  them  in  the  oven  for  a  minute  or  two  to  warm.  Add  the  frothed 
white  of  an  egg  quickly  to  the  batter,  beat  it  lightly  and  pour  it  over  the  shrimps. 
Bake  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  hot. 

Spanish    Omelet. 

Put  a  finely-shred  onion,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  chopped  green  pepper,  six 
minced  mushrooms,  and  one  large  tomato  cut  fine,  into  a  stewpan;  add  one  spoonful 
of  tomato  sauce,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Make  a  plain 
omelet  with  twelve  eggs,  fold  the  farther  side  towards  the  center,  put  three-fourths  of 
the  stew  inside  of  it,  fold  the  other  side  over,  turn  out  onto  a  long  dish,  pour  the  rest 
of  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Tomato   Omelet. 

Scald  and  skin  a  large  tomato,  chop  it  up  and  mix  in  a  little  minced  shallot. 
Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  three  eggs  separately;  then  mix  the  beaten  yolks  with 
the  tomato  and  shallot,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  one  and  one- 
half  ounces  of  butter  into  an  omelet-pan,  and  when  it  is  quite  hot,  add  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  the  other  mixture,  turn  it  into  the  pan  and  cook  gently  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  stirring  often.  When  done,  place  the  omelet  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Truffle   Omelet. 

Wash  well  three  or  four  large  truffles;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient 
white  wine  or  champagne  to  cover  them  nearly  or  quite  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  with  the 
lid  on  the  pan.  Remove  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  keep  the  truffles 
warm  in  the  stock  for  half  an  hour  or  so.  Take  them  out,  peel  and  chop  them 


588  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

up  very  fine.  Beat  four  eggs  in  a  basin,  add  a  little  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pep- 
per, turn  the  omelet  into  a  fryingpan  with  about  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  butter 
made  hot,  and  cook  until  it  is  yellow.  Put  a  portion  or  the  whole  of  the  cooked 
truffles  with  a  little  of  the  liquor  they  were  stewed  in,  in  the  center  of  the  omelet, 
fold  it  over,  place  it  on  a  dish,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Omelet   with    Fine    Herbs. 

Break  two  eggs  into  a  basin,  mix  in  a  shallot,  a  little  each  of  thyme,  marjoram, 
basil,  chervil  and  parsley,  and  sprinkle  in  a  very  little  pepper.  Melt  one  ounce  of 
butter  in  a  pan  on  the  fire  and  let  the  butter  cover  the  pan,  and,  taking  care  that  it 
does  not  burn,  when  it  is  at  the  boiling  point  place  in  the  omelet  and  fry  to  a  golden 
brown. 

Eggs  on  Toast. 

Toast  six  or  eight  pieces  of  bread  without  crust,  cut  square,  butter  them  and 
place  on  a  dish.  Put  a  poached  egg  on  each,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve  hot. 

Eggs,    Parisian  Style. 

Mask  the  whole  of  the  insides  of  as  many  small  dariole  moulds  as  may  be  required 
(the  moulds  having  been  previously  set  on  the  ice)  with  warmed  half-glaze;  make  a 
mince  of  equal  parts  of  truffles,  ham  or  tongue  and  sprinkle  over  the  insides  of  the 
moulds  so  as  to  adhere  to  the  glaze  and  break  an  egg  into  each  one,  taking  care  not 
to  damage  the  yolk;  sprinkle  them  over  with  salt  and  pepper  and  put  in  a  low  sauce- 
pan with  boiling  water  to  half  their  height;  then  put  the  pan  in  the  oven  for  five  or 
six  minutes  to  poach  the  eggs,  pour  them  out  onto  a  dish,  pour  a  little  gravy  seasoned 
with  chopped  parsley  over  them,  and  serve. 

Eggs,  Peasant  Style. 

Pour  into  a  dish  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream;  when  boiling  break  in  twelve 
eggs,  season  with  salt  and  twelve  whole  peppers;  cook  for  ten  minutes;, set  in  the 
oven  for  about  three  minutes  until  the  eggs  get  a  golden  color,  taking  care  that  they 
do  not  harden.  Remove  them  from  the  oven,  place  the  dish  on  another,  and  serve. 

Philadelphia   Eggs. 

Split  some  fresh  muffins  in  two,  toast  them  to  a  fine  color  and  lay  them  on  a 
dish.  Cut  some  cooked  chicken  white  meat  the  same  size  as  the  half  muffins,  lay 
them  on  top,  then  a  poached  egg  over,  and  cover  with  Hollandaise  sauce,  made  as 
follows:  Melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  and  when  quite  hot  add  two  raw 
egg  yolks  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  whip  well  till  it  becomes  creamy  and  con- 
sistent, then  use. 


EGGS  AND  OiVIELETS.  589 

How  to   Poach   Eggs. 

Put  a  gallon  of  water  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  to  boil  gently,  adding  a  large 
pinch  of  salt.  When  the  water  boils,  break  in  eight  eggs  very  delicately,  without  in- 
juring the  yolks,  and  leave  them  to  cook  for  a  few  minutes ;  lift  them  out  with  a 
skimmer  and  serve  on  toasts,  or  otherwise,  while  still  very  hot. 

Poached   Eggs   Bourguignonne. 

Glaze  one  tablespoonful  of  meat  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  broth  or  con- 
somme, and  boil  for  a  few  minutes;  add  two  eggs  and  poach  for  a  minute  and  a  quar- 
ter. Carefully  lift  the  eggs  out  with  a  skimmer,  and  lay  them  gently  on  a  hot  dish. 
Repeat  the  operation  with  ten  more  eggs,  two  at  a  time;  when  all  are  on  the  dish, 
sprinkle  over  one  ounce  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  place  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  one 
minute  to  brown.  Reduce  the  gravy  in  which  the  eggs  were  poached  to  half  its 
original  quantity.  Pour  it  carefully  around,  but  not  over  them,  and  serve. 

Poached   Eggs  with   Anchovy   Sauce. 

Put  eight  eggs  into  a  saucepan  of  water  and  boil  for  five  minutes;  then  take  them 
out,  remove  the  shells  and  put  them  in  cold  water.  Cut  off  the  crust  from  a  stale  loaf 
and  cut  the  crumb  into  slices  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  and  again  into  oval-shaped 
pieces  about  the  size  of  eggs.  Cut  them  transversely  around  the  edge  with  a  sharp 
knife,  put  them  in  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat  and  fry  them  to  a  light  brown.  Take 
them  out,  split  across,  removing  the  bottom  part,  scoop  out  a  little  of  the  soft  inside, 
fill  each  cavity  with  an  egg,  and  put  on  the  tops.  Flavor  a  little  bechamel  sauce  with 
essence  of  anchovies,  place  the  egg  croustades  on  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Poached  Eggs  with  Bechamel  Sauce. 

Pour  one  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  and  set  it  on  the  hot  stove;  cut 
twelve  hard-boiled  eggs  in  halves,  and  put  them  into  the  hot  bechamel  sauce;  season 
with  white  pepper,  and  warm  up  thoroughly  for  three  minutes,  but  without  boiling; 
add  one  ounce  of  butter  and  one  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg;  pour  the  whole  onto 
a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  six  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Poached  Eggs  with  Celery  Sauce. 

Boil  two  heads  of  well-washed  celery  in  one  quart  of  white  broth  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Take  them  out,  cut  in  one-inch  lengths,  return  to  the  pan  with  the  broth  leav- 
ing it  on  the  stove  to  keep  hot,  and  season  with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Reduce  the 
liquor  to  three-quarters  (which  will  require  about  ten  minutes)  pour  in  one  gill  of  hot 


590  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

bechamel  sauce,  and  boil  again.     Poach  twelve  eggs  and  arrange  them  neatly  around 
a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  center,  and  serve  quickly. 

Poached  Eggs  with  Mushrooms. 

Have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mushrooms  peeled,  washed  and  drained,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  season  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and 
squeeze  in  two  or  three  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Cover  over  the  pan  and  cook  for  ten 
minutes  over  a  moderate  fire;  add  about  a  quarter  of  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine, 
and  reduce  to  half  the  original  quantity;  add  one  gill  of  bechamel  sauce  and  bring  the 
whole  to  a  boiling  point.  Poach  twelve  eggs.  Pour  the  sauce  on  a  hot  dish,  keeping 
the  mushrooms  in  the  saucepan,  lay  the  eggs  neatly  over  the  sauce  in  a  circle  on  a 
dish  and  place  the  mushrooms  in  the  center. 

Poached   Eggs  with  Wine   Sauce. 

Pour  into  a  stewpan  one  pint  of  claret  with  two  sprigs  of  parsley  and  a  sprig  of 
thyme  tied  together;  also  a  small  onion,  one  clove  of  garlic,  one  clove,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste;  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  strain  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  and 
return  it  to  the  stewpan.  Break  in  carefully  one  egg  and  leave  it  in  one  minute,  then 
take  it  out  with  a  skimmer  and  place  it  on  a  dish;  proceed  in  this  manner  until  eight 
eggs  have  been  used,  then  put  the  dish  in  a  warm  place.  Work  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  put  it  into  the  wine  sauce,  stir  over  the  fire 
and  boil  until  reduced  to  a  thick  cream.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  eggs,  and  serve. 

Eggs,    Poulette   Style. 

Boil  a  gill  of  milk  with  a  little  chopped  parsley,  a  small  lump  of  butter,  and  a 
pinch  of  pepper  and  salt;  add  six  hard-boiled  eggs  peeled  and  cut  into  slices,  also  a 
few  button  mushrooms.  When  the  eggs  are  hot,  arrange  on  a  dish,  thicken  the 
sauce  with  arrowroot,  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 

Eggs,    Qjaeen   Style. 

Boil  eight  eggs  gently  in  a  saucepan  for  five  minutes;  take  them,  strip  off  the 
shells  and  plunge  into  cold  water.  Put  the  meat  of  a  cooked  fowl  in  a  mortar  and 
pound  it  well,  adding  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel 
sauce,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  When  well  mixed, 
rub  this  through  a  sieve  into  a  saucepan,  warm  it,  and  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  cream. 
Put  it  on  a  dish,  place  the  eggs  in  a  circle  with  a  small  piece  of  tongue  or  truffle 
between  them,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread.  A  rice  border  may 
be  used  with  the  puree  piled  in  the  center,  and  garnished  with  the  eggs. 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  591 

Scrambled   Eggs. 

Beat  up  four  eggs  and  add  a  pinch  of  salt.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of 
butter;  pour  in  the  eggs,  and  stir  briskly  over  a  quick  fire  for  one  minute.  Toast  and 
butter  some  slices  of  bread,  put  them  on  a  dish,  pour  the  eggs  over,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Scotch   Woodcock. 

Beat  thoroughly  three  eggs  with  a  little  anchovy  paste;  pour  them  into  a  saucepan 
with  three-quarters  of  a  breakfast  cupful  of  milk,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until 
thick,  but  without  boiling.  Cut  four  slices  of  bread,  remove  the  crusts,  and  toast 
them  to  a  light  brown.  Butter  the  toast,  spread  also  some  anchovy  paste  over,  and 
arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  the  custard  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with    Cream  and  Mushrooms. 

Beat  together  four  eggs  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  put  a  quarter  of  a  gill 
of  cream  and  a  small  piece  of  butter  in  a  fryingpan,  melt  the  butter,  pour  in  the 
beaten  eggs,  and  stir  quickly  over  the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes.  Before  cooking 
the  eggs,  chop  up  some  mushrooms,  and  fry  them  lightly  in  butter.  Dish  when  the 
eggs  are  done  after  mixing  the  mushrooms  with  them. 

Scrambled   Eggs  with  Smoked    Beef. 

Fry  two  ounces  of  finely-chopped  smoked  beef  in  a  sautepan  for  one  minute. 
Scramble  twelve  eggs,  mix  them  with  the  beef,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  garnish. 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Truffles. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  four  sliced  truffles  with  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine 
and  reduce  to  about  half  its  original  bulk,  which  will  take  about  two  minutes;  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Break  eight  eggs  into  the 
saucepan,  and  mix  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  knife  for  three  minutes  over  a  quick 
fire  without  ceasing.  Serve  in  a  hot  dish. 

Shirred  Eggs. 

Butter  the  inside  of  a  deep  plate,  and  break  into  it  as  many  eggs  as  will  cover 
the  bottom,  shake  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  them,  and  place  small  pieces  of  butter 
on  top;  put  in  a  moderate  oven  for  five  minutes,  when  they  will  be  done. 

Spanish   Eggs. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  breakfast  cupful  of  washed  rice  with  a  quart  of  boiling 
milk;  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  boil  until  done;  strain  the  rice,  drain  on  a 


592  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

colander,  and  put  into  a  basin;  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  mix  well,  and  spread  evenly 
on  a  dish.     Cut  into  slices  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  arrange  on  the  rice,  and  serve. 

Stuffed  Eggs. 

Take  twelve  hard-boiled  eggs,  peel  off  the  shells,  cut  them  transversely  in  halves, 
remove  the  yolks,  and  put  them  in  a  mortar.  Skin  and  bone  eight  anchovies,  moisten 
them  together  with  a  little  butter  and  some  breadcrumbs,  with  a  little  milk,  and 
pound  with  the  yolks  of  the  three  raw  eggs,  seasoning  to  taste.  Fry  in  a  stewpan 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  until  brown;  add  a  teacupful  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, season  with  powdered  sweet  herbs,  and  sprinkle  over  breadcrumbs  and 
chopped  parsley;  when  cool,  mix  them  with  the  pounded  preparation.  Fill  the 
whites  (of  the  eggs  with  this.  Melt  some  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  eggs,  the 
cut  side  uppermost,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  basting  now 
and  then  with  butter.  Put  two  halves  together,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  dish 
with  sprigs  of  parsley  in  the  center  and  round  the  base  of  the  eggs,  and  serve. 

Eggs   Stuffed  with    Anchovies. 

Take  some  hard-boiled  eggs,  remove  the  shells,  chop  off  a  thin  slice  from  each 
end,  cut  them  in  halves,  take  out  the  yolks  and  stand  each  half  on  its  end  on  the  dish 
in  which  they  are  to  be  served.  For  each  egg  take  one  anchovy,  remove  the  scales 
and  bones,  cut  them  up  very  fine  and  mix  with  the  yolks,  previously  crushed;  put  all 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  warm  butter  and  stir  until  the  butter  is  thoroughly  mixed 
in.  Put  this  into  the  whites  and  serve  with  Dutch  sauce  poured  over. 

Eggs,    Sultana. 

Put  into  a  basin  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  a  tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  olive 
oil  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chutney,  beat  well  and  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish.  Break 
six  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  into  a  teacup,  put  them  one  by  one  on  the  sauce  and  set  the 
dish  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set,  but  not  overdone.  Serve  on  the  same 
dish  very  hot. 

Surprise  Eggs. 

Break  the  required  number  of  eggs  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water  to  poach,  but 
without  cooking  them  hard;  take  them  out  to  put  in  a  basin  with  a  squeeze  of  lemon 
juice,  finely-chopped  parsley  and  salt,  and  steep  for  several  hours;  take  them  out 
again,  drain,  put  them  in  batter,  then  into  some  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  one  or  two  at  a 
time  in  boiling  fat  until  done  to  a  light  brown.  Arrange  some  sprigs  of  parsley  on  a 
dish,  place  the  eggs  on  the  parsley,  and  serve. 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  593 

Curried   Egg    Tartlets. 

Line  some  small  tartlet  moulds  with  very  fine  paste  and  cook  them  in  the  oven 
after  filling  them  with  raw  rice;  when  they  are  baked  empty  the  rice  and  unmould 
and  leave  them  in  a  dry  place.  Boil  a  few  eggs  till  quite  hard  and  cut  the  whites 
into  very  small  dice;  mix  them  in  with  some  creamy  curry  sauce,  adding  a  little 
chutney.  Just  when  prepared  to  serve  fill  the  tartlets  with  this  preparation  and  be- 
strew them  with  the  yolks  rubbed  through  a  sieve  so  that  the  entire  surfaces  are  cov- 
ered. Serve  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  napkin. 

Trenton  Eggs. 

Chop  up  fine  one  dozen  hard-boiled  eggs;  add  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley 
and  a  pint  of  cream  sauce,  mingling  all  well  together.  Roll  this  preparation  into 
balls  the  size  of  an  egg;  dip  them  first  into  flour,  then  into  beaten  raw  egg,  and  lastly 
in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  very  hot  fat.  Dress  the  croquettes  on  a  bed  of  mashed 
sweet  potatoes,  and  pour  a  little  tomato  sauce  around. 

Turban   of  Eggs. 

Stew  a  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms,  then  cut  them  up  very  fine;  stir  them  into  a 
glassful  of  bechamel  sauce,  adding  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs.  Pour  this  preparation 
into  a  buttered  border-mould,  and  poach  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a  double  steamer. 
Unmould  and  dress  the  border  into  a  dish,  and  on  top  arrange  six  soft  eggs,  with  a 
fine  cockscomb  between  each  one;  cover  with  Spanish  sauce. 

Tuscany    Eggs. 

Arrange  six  fried  eggs  in  a  circle,  placing  a  square  piece  of  cooked  ham  between 
each  one;  form  a  second  circle  above  with  halved  mutton  kidneys  stewed  in  butter 
and  Madeira  sauce. 

Two    Brother   Eggs. 

Line  six  tartlet  moulds  with  puff  paste,  having  had  six  turns  and  rolled  out  very 
thin;  cook  the  tartlets  in  the  oven  and  keep  them  warm.  Beat  five  eggs  with  a 
handful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg.  Scramble  these  eggs,  keeping  them  quite  soft,  and  fill  the  tartlets  two- 
thirds  high  with  them;  in  each  one  lay  a  poached  egg,  and  stew  chopped  parsley  over. 
Dress  them  onto  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  at  once. 

Eggs,  Valencienne  Style. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  hot,  boiled  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  hot 
tomato  sauce,  two  mushrooms,  one  truffle  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  two  tablespoon- 


594  EGGS  AND  OMELETS. 

fuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese;  season  with  salt  and  grated  nutmeg,  and  cook  over  a 
hot  fire  for  five  minutes,  stirring  lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Remove  the  pan  to 
the  side  of  the  stove  to  keep  warm;  put  half  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  dish  and  set  it 
on  the  hot  stove  to  melt;  break  in  eight  fresh  eggs,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the 
yolks,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for  two  minutes.  Arrange  the  rice 
mixture  in  four  dome-shaped  heaps,  one  at  each  end  of  the  dish,  and  one  at  each 
side,  place  the  eggs  in  the  center,  and  serve  immediately. 

Vol-au-Vent  of  Eggs. 

Make  a  vol-au-vent  case,  and  fill  it  with  alternate  layers  of  puree  of  mushrooms 
and  scrambled  eggs,  adding  a  little  tomato  sauce  onto  each  layer,  and  between  these 
strew  some  grated  cheese. 

Washington  Eggs. 

Toast  eight  round  slices  of  bread  and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  cut  some  fresh  tomatoes 
across  in  two,  fry  in  butter  and  put  a  half  on  each  slice  of  toast,  on  top  arrange  a 
round  slice  of  sweet  peppers.  Lay  two  poached  eggs  on  every  one  of  the  prepared 
toasts,  and  pour  cream  sauce  mingled  with  tomato  sauce  around. 

Eggs   with  Asparagus. 

Take  some  asparagus  tops,  chop  into  small  pieces  about  the  size  of  peas,  and 
boil  them,  take  them  out,  put  into  another  saucepan  with  a  little  butter,  chives  and  a 
small  quantity  of  parsley,  set  the  pan  over  a  rather  slow  fire,  add  a  little  water,  flour 
and  salt  and  sugar  to  taste,  and  let  them  cook  until  quite  done;  arrange  on  a  dish 
with  a  few  eggs  broken  over,  and  season  with  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the 
dish  on  a  hot  stove,  cook  the  eggs  with  a  hot  salamander,  keeping  the  yolks  soft, 
and  serve  in  the  dish  they  were  cooked  in. 

Eggs  with    Cheese    and    Parsley. 

Grate  four  ounces  of  Parmesan  cheese  and  chop  fine  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley; 
melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  parsley  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes; 
then  add  the  cheese  and  two  wineglassfuls  of  white  wine  and  stir  over  the  fire  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  the  cheese  is  melted.  Break  in  one  egg,  stir  it  well,  then  add 
another  egg  and  so  on  until  eight  have  been  used.  Turn  the  mixture  out  onto  a  hot 
dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve. 

Eggs    with    Cream. 

Chop  some  cold  chicken  very  fine,  season  to  taste.  Take  a  poacher  and  put  a 
little  of  the  chicken  over  the  bottom  of  each  compartment,  depress  it  in  the  center 


EGGS  AND  OMELETS.  595 

and  break  into  each,  one  egg;  poach  in  water  until  quite  set.     Place  on  a  dish  with  a 
folded  napkin  and  serve  with  thick  cream  sauce. 

Eggs    with    Kidneys. 

Break  into  a  buttered  dish  twelve  fresh  eggs,  or  if  desired,  use  six  small  dishes, 
breaking  two  eggs  into  each  one;  then  cook  them  on  the  stove  for  two  minutes.  Cut 
into  halves  six  mutton  kidneys  and  broil,  or  stew  them  according  to  taste;  then  add 
them  to  the  eggs,  and  serve  with  half  a  pint  of  hot  perigueux. 

Eggs    with    Tomato    Sauce. 

Boil  until  hard,  three  eggs;  peel  and  cut  the  whites  into  strips  and  put  these 
over  the  fire  with  tomato  sauce  and  let  them  get  quite  hot.  Put  a  layer  of  this  on  a 
hoi  dish  with  pieces  of  fried  bread  all  around.  Chop  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  put  a 
layer  over  the  sauce  and  egg  white,  then  more  tomato  and  more  chopped  egg,  and  so 
on  until  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  tomato  sauce  are  all  dished,  having  a  layer  of 
the  yolks  on  top. 


Farinaceous. 

Cheese   Biscuits. 

Grate  into  a  mortar  five  or  six  ounces  of  any  desired  cheese,  mix  with  it  a  tea- 
cupful  of  the  best  wheat  flour,  and  one-half  pound  of  cream  curds;  season  with  a 
small  quantity  of  salt,  and  pound  well,  adding  gradually  five  ounces  of  warm  butter; 
then  mix  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  beaten  eggs  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Sprinkle  a  little 
flour  over  a  table,  put  the  paste  on  it  and  roll  it  out  until  very  thin.  Cut  the  paste 
into  rounds  with  a  tin  cutter  about  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  arrange  them 
on  butter 'baking-sheets  allowing  a  small  space  between  each,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven.  When  cooked  put  the  biscuits  on  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  or  a  folded  table 
napkin,  and  serve  while  they  are  hot. 

Cheese    Patties. 

Have  a  slice  of  bread  one  and  one-half  inches  thick,  cut  it  into  small  rounds  with 
a  cutter,  hollow  out  the  middle  to  form  a  little  cup.  Fry  eight  of  these  in  butter, 
first  dipping  them  in  milk  and  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Mix  together  two  ounces  of 
grated  cheese,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  milk,  and  a  little  salt  and  cay- 
enne; fill  the  breads  with  this  mixture,  stand  them  in  the  oven,  and  when  the  cheese 
is  melted,  serve  them. 

Cheese  Straws. 

(i).  Put  one-half  saltspoonful  each  of  cayenne  and  salt  into  two  ounces  of 
flour;  then  mix  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  add  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese;  mix  all  these  to  a  thick  paste  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Roll  this  out  to  about 
five  inches  in  length,  cut  it  into  rings  and  strips,  lay  them  on  a  greased  baking-sheet 
and  bake  for  ten  minutes  in  a  fast  oven.  When  they  are  done  pass  the  straws  through 
the  rings  like  a  bundle  of  sticks,  and  serve. 

(2).  Roll  thin  scraps  of  puff  paste,  sprinkle  over  with  grated  cheese,  fold,  roll 
out,  and  sprinkle  again;  then  repeat  the  process  and  place  on  the  ice  to  harden. 
When  cold  roll  out  to  an  oblong  flat  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  place  it  on  a  baking 
sheet,  and  with  a  pastry  cutter,  cut  into  strips  four  or  five  inches  long  and  less  than  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  wide.  Bake  and  serve  piled  in  cross  triangles  or  squares.  When 
the  paste  is  very  hard  it  is  necessary  to  cut  them  as  narrow  as  possible,  laying  them  in 
the  pans  in  groups  of  five  or  six,  with  one  stalk  tied  round  the  middle  to  represent  a 
bundle  of  straws,  and  baked  in  that  position. 

596 


FARINACEOUS. 


597 


German    Dumplings. 

Take  two  or  three  small  rolls,  remove  the  crusts  and  cut  the  crumb  into  small 
pieces  ;  put  these  into  a  basin,  pour  over  boiling  milk  and  let  them  soak  ;  press 
so  as  to  draw  off  the  milk,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  and  beat  over  the  fire  with 
a  spoon  until  hot  ;  then  move  to  the  side  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cut  half  a  pound  of  bacon  into  small  pieces  and  fry  them  with  some  of  the 
crusts  of  the  bread  cut  into  small  pieces.  Mix  the  fried  crusts  and  bacon  with  the 
soaked  bread ;  add  in  small  lumps  five  ounces  of  butter  and  sufficient  beaten  egg 
to  bind  the  mixture  without  making  it  too  soft ;  then  divide  it  into  small  equal  sized 
masses,  and  roll  them  evenly  around.  Plunge  the  dumplings  into  a  saucepan  of  boil- 
ing water,  salted,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes,  keeping  the  saucepan  covered.  When 
cooked,  drain  them  and  pour  over  them  brown  clarified  butter. 

Hard  -Dumplings. 

Mix  with  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  make  into  a  paste 
with  cold  water,  keeping  it  rather  firm.  Cut  the  paste  into  small  portions,  make  into 
balls  and  plunge  these  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes, 
being  careful  not  to  lift  the  lid  of  the  saucepan  until  the  dumplings  are  done.  Take 
them  out  of  the  saucepan,  pull  them  apart  in  the  center,  and  serve  with  preserves, 
butter,  sugar  or  gravy. 

Indian    Dumplings. 

Skin  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  chop  fine  and  dredge  well  with  flour ; 
add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cornmeal,  and  mix  all  together 
well ;  add  sufficient  milk  to  form  a  stiff  dough,  knead  well  and  divide  into  equal  por- 
tions. On  a  well  floured  paste-board,  form  into  balls  not  larger  than  an  orange,  beat 
them  with  a  rolling-pin  to  make  them  light,  and  then  tie  them  loosely  in  small  cloths 
dipped  into  boiling  water,  wrung  dry  and  well  floured.  Plunge  the  dumplings  into 
boiling  water  and  keep  boiling  incessantly  for  two  hours ;  then  take  them  out  and  dip 
for  an  instant  into  cold  water  before  untying  the  cloths.  Serve  hot  with  boiled  meat. 

Cheese    Fondu. 

Place  five  or  six  eggs  in  a  saucepan,  mix  in  a  third  of  their  weight  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  and  half  this  quantity  of  butter,  and  stir  well  over  a  slack  fire  until 
the  eggs  are  set.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot.  Slices  of  toast 
should  go  with  this. 

Fondus  in    Cases. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  cheese  in  a  basin  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
warmed  butter  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  well 


598  FARINACEOUS. 

together.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  add  them  gradually  to 
the  cheese,  stirring  lightly.  Take  some  paper  cases  and  fill  three  parts  with  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked  and  lightly  browned,  arrange 
on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Boiled    Hominy. 

( I )  Wash  the  hominy  in  cold  water,  and  then  soak  it  for  ten  or  twelve  hours  in 
tepid  water;  put  it  over  a  slow  fire  with  the  water  in  which  it  has  been  soaking,  and 
boil  gently  for  from  three  to  six  hours,  adding  more  water  to  keep  it  from  burning. 
Use  soft  water,  and  do  not  add  salt  while  cooking,  as  it  hardens  the  hominy.  (2) 
Wash  the  hominy  well  in  cold  water,  put  it  into  an  earthenware  pan  or  basin,  pour 
over  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover,  and  let  it  remain  all  night.  Then  drain  and 
place  it  over  the  fire  with  one  quart  of  water  to  every  pint  of  hominy,  and  boil  for  five 
to  six  hours,  stirring  frequently;  then  drain  it  quite  dry  in  a  colander  or  sieve,  and 
serve  hot  in  a  deep  dish.  It  is  very  palatable  when  eaten  with  pork,  bacon  or  beef, 
or  almost  any  kind  of  meat.  Any  cold  hominy  that  may  be  left  can  be  made  into 
cakes  the  following  day,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  wheat  flour,  and  fried  in  boiling 
lard,  or  it  may  be  boiled  for  an  hour,  and  served  as  at  first. 

Hominy   Cakes. 

Boil  one  quart  or  so  of  hominy  very  soft  and  add  to  it  one  pound  of  corn  meal 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  into  it  three  well-beaten  eggs  and  sufficient  milk 
to  make  a  thin  batter.  Beat  the  batter  well  for  a  few  minutes,  then  bake  it  on  a 
griddle,  dropping  it  on  in  large  spoonfuls  and  making  it  very  thin,  or  they  may  be 
baked  in  waffle-irons.  Serve  maple  syrup  with  them.  Yeast  may  be  used  instead 
of  eggs,  putting  one  tablespoonful  in  the  batter  and  allowing  it  to  stand  for  several 
hours  in  a  warm  place  to  rise. 

Hominy    Croquettes. 

Place  one  pint  of  cooked  hominy  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot 
milk  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  hot.  Remove  from  the  fire,  mix  a  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg  with  it,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  and  leave  till  cool.  Shape  the  mixture  into 
croquettes,  then  roll  them  in  breadcrumbs,  heat  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  fryingyan,  put 
in  the  croquettes  and  fry  them.  When  browned,  drain,  lay  them  on  a  napkin,  and  serve. 

Fried    Hominy. 

Take  some  cold  boiled  hominy  and  make  it  into  a  soft  paste  by  stirring  in  one 
beaten  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  warmed  butter,  and  a  small  quantity  of  milk;  stir  the 
mixture  over  the  fire  until  well  incorporated  and  hot,  then  turn  it  onto  a  dish  and 


FARINACEOUS.  599 

leave  until  cold.  Divide  it  into  small  round  cakes  and  dredge  them  lightly  with  flour; 
put  a  large  lump  of  butter  into  a  flat  stewpan,  and  when  boiling,  put  in  the  cakes  and 
fry  until  equally  browned.  Drain  them,  pile  on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been 
spread  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar, 

Baked   Macaroni. 

Put  nine  ounces  of  macaroni  without  breaking  it  into  a  saucepan  with  boiling 
salted  water  and  when  done  drain,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  add  a  little  pepper  and 
grated  nutmeg  to  taste  and  thicken  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce. 
Warm  this  up  on  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  take  it  off,  toss  the  pan  and  add  one- 
fourth  pound  of  butter,  two  ounces  each  of  grated  Parmesan  and  also  of  grated 
Gruyere  cheese  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  baking-dish.  Sprinkle  with  a  little  more 
cheese  and  gratinate  for  thirty  minutes  in  the  oven;  then  serve. 

Macaroni,   Bolognese    Style. 

Break  some  lasagna»or  macaroni  into  convenient  lengths  and  boil  in  salted  water, 
Thoroughly  wash  sufficient  spinach,  using  plenty  of  water,  as  it  is  very  gritty;  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  a  lump  of  salt  and  boil  until  tender.  Drain  the 
spinach  well,  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan;  moisten  with 
a  little  rich  veal  gravy  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  When  the  macaroni 
is  cooked  drain  it,  arrange  on  a  deep  dish  in  alternate  layers  with  the  spinach,  plac- 
ing a  good  supply  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  between  each  layer,  cover  the  dish  and 
place  it  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  ready 
serve  the  macaroni  very  hot  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  cooked. 

Curried   Macaroni. 

Put  a  quantity  of  macaroni  in  a  saucepan  of  salted  water  and  boil  for  twenty 
minutes;  remove,  drain,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  some  curry  sauce  and  simmer  it 
gently  for  from  five  to  ten  minutes.  Keep  each  piece  of  macaroni  separate  and  do 
not  allow  it  to  be  cooked  to  a  paste.  Serve  it  hot. 

Macaroni,   Genovese   Style. 

Boil  half  a  dozen  fresh  pork  sausages  in  stock;  when  cooked  drain  and  let  them 
get  cold.  Boil  the  necessary  quantity  of  macaroni  in  salted  water  and  when  thor- 
oughly tender  turn  it  out  onto  a  sieve  to  drain.  Cut  the  sausages  in  slices  and  arrange 
them  with  alternate  layers  of  the  macaroni  on  a  deep  dish,  strewing  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  between  each  layer.  Pour  over  the  contents  of  the  dish  some  nicely-flavored 
rich  veal  gravy,  cover  the  dish  and  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  one  hour.  Serve 
the  macaroni  very  hot  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  cooked. 


600  FARINACEOUS. 

Macaroni,    Italian   Style. 

Boil  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  macaroni,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gill 
each  of  tomato  and  Madeira  sauces,  and  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  season  with  pepper  and  nutmeg  to  taste,  and  cook  slowly  for  ten  minutes, 
tossing  slowly  but  frequently.  Arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  grated  cheese 
separately. 

(2.)  Boil  one-fourth  pound  of  macaroni  in  water  until  tender,  then  add  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  milk  and  thicken  with  flour  and  water.  Now  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  made  mustard,  and  a  proper  seasoning  of  pepper,  salt  and  cayenne.  Stir  in 
one-half  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  boil  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 


Macaroni,    Milanese   Style. 


Cut  a  piece  of  lean  veal  and  two  ounces  of  raw  ham  into  moderate-sized  pieces, 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  chopped  onion  and  carrot,  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  butter,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned,  adding  one  wineglassful  of  white  wine  and 
stock  to  cover.  Put  in  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  including  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  a 
small  bottleful  of  tomato  sauce,  and  a  few  chopped  mushrooms.  When  boiling  move 
the  stewpan  to  the  edge  of  the  fire,  and  stew  the  contents  gently  for  three  hours. 
Next,  strain  the  gravy  through  a  fine  sieve;  put  the  other  ingredients,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  bundle  of  herbs,  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  to  a  smooth  paste;  then 
return  the  mixture  to  the  stewpan  with  the  gravy,  and  boil  it  gently  for  twenty 
or  thirty  minutes  longer.  Boil  the  required  quantity  of  macaroni  and  drain  it  well; 
cut  some  milk  cheese  into  slices.  Strain  the  gravy  into  another  stewpan,  put  in  two 
ounces  of  butter  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  keep  it  hot  at  the  edge  of  the  fire. 
Arrange  the  macaroni  and  slices  of  cheese  in  layers  in  a  deep  dish  with  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese  over  them,  moisten  with  the  above  gravy,  dust  a  small  quantity  of 
powdered  cinnamon  over  the  top,  and  cover  the  dish.  Place  it  in  a  slow  oven,  and 
leave  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  take  it  out  of  the  oven,  and  serve  while 
very  hot  in  the  same  dish. 


Macaroni,  Neapolitan  Style. 


Place  a  saucepan  of  water  on  the  fire,  boil  it  up,  and  put  into  it  one  heaping 
teaspoonful  of  salt;  as  soon  as  it  boils  up  again,  throw  in  one  pound  of  macaroni,  let 
it  boil  for  half  an  hour,  then  drain  in  a  colander.  Grate  six  or  eight  ounces  of 
cheese;  put  a  layer  of  the  boiled  macaroni  in  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle  it  with  grated 
cheese,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full.  Pour  over  it  some  hot  gravy.  Melt  on  the 
fire  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  butter,  pour  it  over  the  top,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 


FARINACEOUS.  601 

Stewed  Macaroni. 

Simmer  one-fourth  pound  of  macaroni  in  enough  water  to  cover;  when  soft,  turn 
it  onto  a  sieve,  drain,  and  leave  until  cold.  Put  in  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  taking 
care  not  to  allow  the  macaroni  to  break  or  lose  its  shape.  Chop  very  fine  all  the 
white  meat  of  a  fowl  and  three  or  four  slices  of  ham,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt, 
white  pepper  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Beat  well  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
and  the  white  of  one  separately.  Mix  the  minced  fowl  and  ham  into  the  beaten 
yolks,  stir  in  one-fourth  pint  of  cream,  then  beat  in  lightly  the  frothed  white  of  egg, 
and  carefully  mix  in  the  macaroni.  Butter  a  mould,  place  the  mixture  into  it,  cover 
it  closely,  and  steam  for  an  hour.  Turn  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  some  gravy  over, 
and  serve  hot. 

Macaroni  Timbales. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  macaroni  into  a  saucepan  of  salted  water,  and  boil  until 
tender,  drain,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  two  inches  in  length.  Reduce  one  wine- 
glassful  of  bechamel  sauce  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  stirring  in  gradually  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  gravy;  when  well  flavored,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  pour  it  on 
the  macaroni,  together  with  a  little  powdered  cinnamon  and  five  ounces  of  butter. 
Meanwhile  butter  a  timbale  mould,  sprinkle  with  the  breadcrumbs,  and  line  with 
sweetened  tartlet-paste.  Pour  in  the  preparation,  cover  it  with  a  flat  of  the  paste, 
and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake.  In  about  forty-five  minutes  remove  it  from 
the  oven,  place  it  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  over  sugar  flavored  with  cinnamon,  and  serve. 

Macaroni  with  Cheese. 

Put  plenty  of  water  in  a  large  saucepan  together  with  a  lump  of  salt,  and  place 
it  over  the  fire;  when  the  water  boils  quickly  throw  in  the  macaroni,  first  breaking  it 
into  moderate  lengths.  Stir  frequently  until  tender  then  pour  in  a  jugful  of  cold 
water,  and  drain  the  water  off.  Put  about  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned;  turn  the  macaroni  onto  a  hot  dish, 
pour  over  the  butter,  strew  plenty  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  over  it,  and  serve. 

Macaroni  with   Cream. 

Boil  in  plenty  of  salted  water  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  macaroni,  adding  one-half  ounce  of  butter  and  one  cnion  stuck  with  two 
cloves.  Drain  well,  and  put  it  back  into  a  saucepan  with  one-third  of  a  pound  each 
of  butter,  grated  Parmesan  and  grated  Gruyere  cheese,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  and  a  little 
nutmeg.  Moisten  with  one-half  pint  of  white  broth  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 
Cook  all  together  for  five  minutes,  stirring  well,  and  when  the  macaroni  is  soft,  dish 
it  up,  and  serve. 


602  FARINACEOUS. 


Macaroni  with  Gravy. 


Prepare  a  small  quantity  of  veal  gravy,  skim  off  the  fat  and  mix  with  it  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  a  little  raw  ham,  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  pepper.  Place  this  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  until 
wanted.  Meanwhile  boil  some  macaroni  in  a  little  salted  water  ;  when  tender  drain, 
and  before  it  gets  cold  take  up  small  quantities  with  a  skimmer  and  put  them  in 
layers  in  a  deep  dish.  Cover  each  layer  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  moisten  with 
a  little  of  the  gravy  strained  through  a  sieve  and  mixed  with  a  little  butter,  and  serve 
very  hot.  If  the  gravy  is  too  thin,  thicken  it  with  a  little  meat-glaze. 

Macaroni  with   Ham. 

Put  two  ounces  of  macaroni  broken  in  pieces  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of 
highly  seasoned  stock,  and  boil  until  tender ;  add  a  little  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and 
turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish  with  two  ounces  of  minced  cooked  fat  ham  or  streaky  bacon, 
sprinkle  over  a  few  fried  breadcrumbs,  and  serve. 


Macaroni  with   Kidneys. 


Boil  one-fourth  pound  of  macaroni.  Remove  the  fat  from  half  a  dozen  mutton 
kidneys,  or  one  beef  kidney,  skin  them,  cut  them  open,  season  with  salt,  cayenne  and 
powdered  mixed  herbs  and  fry  in  butter,  browning  nicely  on  both  sides;  then  stir  in 
three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  gravy  flavored  with  tomatoes.  Place  the  kidneys  on  a  hot 
dish,  surround  them  with  the  boiled  macaroni,  pour  over  the  gravy,  and  sprinkle  with 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  some  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs,  with  a  sprinkling  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

Macaroni  with   Tomatoes. 

Break  one-fourth  pound  of  macaroni  in  lengths  of  about  three  inches,  plunge 
them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes  or  so  until 
done.  Take  them  out,  drain,  and  put  them  in  a  baking-dish;  mix  in  one  ounce  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  one  teacupful  of  stewed  tomatoes,  an  equal  quantity  of 
brown  meat  gravy,  a  lump  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Place  the  dish  in 
a  slack  oven,  allow  the  mixture  to  simmer  gently  for  thirty  minutes,  and  serve.  It  need 
not  be  baked  unless  desired,  and  care  must  be  exercised  to  see  that  the  flavor  of  the 
tomatoes  is  not  too  strong,  and  also  that  it  is  not  salted  too  much. 

Noodles. 

These  are  virtually  the  same,  the  former  being  a  French  adaptation  of  the  original 
German  paste;  but  national  tastes  have  served  in  a  measure  to  modify  the  shapes  and 


FARINACEOUS.  603 

applications,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  following  recipes,  which  are  classified,  in  order  to 
avoid  confusion,  into  noodles,  nudles  and  dampf-nudels.  The  paste  is  similar  in  all 
cases,  consisting  essentially  of  eggs  and  flour. 

Baked  Noodles. 

Boil  a  sufficient  quantity  of  noodles  in  water,  drain  thoroughly,  and  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  enough  cold  milk  to  cover;  two  ounces  of  butter,  about  four  ounces  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste.  Toss  the  noodles  over 
the  fire  for  several  minutes,  then  pile  them  on  a  hot  dish,  strew  plenty  of  grated  bread- 
crumb over,  and  brown  them  in  a  brisk  oven.  Serve  very  hot. 

Noodles  with   Parmesan    Cheese. 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  placed  on  a  hot  stove,  and  when  melted, 
mix  in  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  flour,  a  little  salt,  a  very  little  cayenne  and  a  tea- 
cupful  of  milk.  Work  these  to  a  firm  paste  and  add  three  eggs  and  four  ounces  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  take  the  prepara- 
tion up  in  small  quantities  with  a  spoon,  drop  them  in  the  boiling  water  and  boil  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Take  them  out,  drain,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  a 
folded  napkin  or  fancy  dish-paper,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of  rich  brown  sauce. 

Nudels. 

Although  made  of  the  same  kind  of  paste  as  the  noodles,  the  peculiarity  of 
these  according  to  German  ideas  is  that  they  are  cut  into  shreds  or  thin  strips.  Mix 
in  a  basin  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  with  one-half  pound  of  flour,  then  mix  in  four 
beaten  eggs  and  work  the  dough  until  smooth.  Dredge  flour  over  a  paste-board,  place 
the  dough  on  it  and  knead  well.  Roll  the  dough  very  thin  and  then  twist 
it  up  like  a  rolled  jelly-cake,  cut  half  the  roll  into  strips  one-half  inch 
thick  and  the  other  into  strips  one-fourth  inch  thick,  place  the  wider  strips  of 
paste  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put  one-fourth 
pound  of  butter  into  a  flat  stewpan,  and  when  blue  smoke  arises,  throw  in  the  narrow 
strips  of  paste  and  fry  till  lightly  browned.  Turn  the  boiled  strips  of  paste,  when 
done,  on  a  sieve,  drain  and  lay  on  a  hot  dish  on  which  has  been  placed  a  folded 
napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper.  Next,  drain  the  other  strips  as  free  from  fat  as 
possible  and  pile  on  the  top  of  the  boiled  ones.  Strew  powdered  sugar  over  them, 
and  serve  with  cream. 


Dampf-Nudels,    Polish   Style. 


Put  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  dampf-nudel  paste  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to 
rise.     Then  turn  out  on  a  floured  board  and  work   it  well  with   the   hands  for   a   few 


604  FARINACEOUS. 

minutes;  let  it  get  quite  cold,  roll  out  very  thin  and  with  a  small  tin  cutter,  cut  it  into 
rounds.  Have  prepared  some  apple  marmalade  reduced  and  mixed  with  rum,  put  a 
little  of  this  on  each  round,  fold  over  the  paste  and  turn  them  upside  down  on  a  but- 
tered baking-sheet.  Place  where  they  will  keep  warm  for  forty-five  minutes  to  rise, 
then  brush  them  over  with  warm  butter,  put  them  with  the  baking-sheet  into  a  moderate 
oven  and  bake  until  done.  Remove  the  baking-sheet,  dredge  a  little  fine  sugar  over 
them,  glaze  slightly,  lay  a  napkin  over  a  dish  and  place  them  on  in  a  pyramidal  form, 
and  serve. 

Italian    Paste. 

What  is  known  by  this  name  is  merely  an  admixture  of  fine  wheat  flour  and 
water,  used  chiefly  in  the  manufacture  of  macaroni  and  vermicelli. 

Macaroni    Paste. 

This  consists  essentially  of  the  best  white  flour  moistened  with  water.  It  is  most 
generally  known  as  Italian  paste. 

Indian   Pilau. 

Throw  one  teacupful  of  rice  into  fast-boiling  water,  let  it  boil  for  twenty  min- 
utes, then  drain  through  a  colander  or  sieve.  Stir  in  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  little 
pepper  and  salt.  Pile  the  rice  in  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  quarters  of  hard-boiled  eggs 
and  surround  it  with  onions  fried  till  dry. 

Rice    Pilau. 

Throw  half  a  pound  of  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  cold  water,  add  a 
small  lump  of  salt  and  place  it  over  the  fire  till  it  boils.  After  the  rice  has  cooked 
for  five  minutes  drain  off  the  water,  freshen  it  with 'cold  water,  drain  that  off  also, 
cover  the  rice  with  a  thick  folded-cloth  and  leave  it  by  the  edge  of  the  fire  until 
swollen  and  soft.  Put  one-half  pound  of  fresh  butter  into  a  basin  and  place  it  in  the 
oven  or  near  the  fire  until  dissolved,  then  remove  any  scum  that  may  have  gathered 
on  the  top,  and  pour  the  butter  over  the  rice.  It  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Turkish   Pilau. 

Put  a  breakfast  cupful  of  stewed  and  strained  tomatoes  in  a  saucepan  with  one- 
half  pint  of  broth,  one  minced  onion  and  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt.  When 
boiling  put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  well-washed  rice  in,  stir  it  lightly  till  the  liquor  is 
absorbed,  then  put  in  one  teacupful  of  butter.  Place  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire  and 
steam  for  twenty  minutes.  Remove  the  lid,  stir  the  pilau  lightly,  cover  with  a  cloth 
and  let  the  steam  escape;  add  a  breakfast  cupful  of  chopped  and  cooked  meat  if  de- 
sired. Serve  the  pilau  as  a  vegetable  without  the  meat  and  as  an  entree  with  it. 


FARINACEOUS.  605 

Polenta   and   Cheese. 

Stir  into  some  boiling  water  enough  polenta,  adding  a  little  salt;  then  move  the 
saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  boil  until  done,  say  from  fifteen  to  twenty  min- 
utes. Pour  into  a  basin  and  let  it  cool;  then  turn  out  of  the  basin,  cut  it  into  slices, 
trimming  them  to  one  size;  butter  a  pie-dish  and  place  the  polenta  in,  in  layers  with 
grated  cheese,  salt  and  a  little  cayenne  strewn  over  each  layer.  Sprinkle  the  cheese, 
liberally  over  the  top,  and  put  the  dish  in  a  quick  oven  until  nicely  browned  on  top 
and  serve  while  hot  in  the  dish  it  is  cooked  in. 

Polenta   Timbale,   Milanese. 

Place  three  pints  of  salted  water  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  when  boiling  re- 
move to  the  side,  scatter  in  one  pound  of  polenta,  simmer  it  gently  until  it  becomes 
quite  thick,  then  add  a  little  butter  and  stir  thoroughly.  Pour  it  into  a  well-buttered 
timbale  mould  and  let  it  cool  for  four  or  five  hours;  next  turn  the  loaf  of  polenta  out 
of  the  mould,  wipe  the  mould  inside  and  again  butter  it,  sprinkle  in  a  few  sifted 
breadcrumbs  and  replace  the  loaf  in  the  mould;  cut  out  a  round  from  the  flat  portion 
and  scoop  out  some  of  the  inside,  leaving  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness  all  over; 
cut  into  slices  a  couple  of  blanched  sweetbreads,  sprinkle  over  them  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  warm  butter  and  fry  until  the  meat 
is  set;  next  pour  over  a  cupful  of  white  wine  and  add  to  this  twelve  mushrooms  cut 
into  quarters  and  eight  ounces  of  lean  ham  or  bacon  cut  into  small  pieces;  place  the 
lid  on  the  pan  and  reduce  the  liquor  quickly  to  a  glaze;  pour  in  a  little  Spanish  sauce 
and  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce  mixed  in  with  it  and  add  two  dozen  small 
veal  quenelles  which  have  been  rolled  in  flour  and  poached.  Pass  this  preparation 
through  into  the  hollow  of  the  loaf  of  polenta  and  cover  over  the  top  with  the  piece 
which  was  cut  off,  fastening  it  on  with  a  little  forcemeat  or  a  little  of  the  liquid 
polenta;  spread  some  butter  over  the  top,  place  the  mould  in  the  oven  and  let  it  re- 
main there  for  nearly  one  hour,  then  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish;  loosen  it  by  pushing  a 
knife  between  the  loaf  and  the  mould,  and  it  is  then  ready  to  be  served  with  a  gar- 
nish of  potato  croquettes. 

Baked  Ravioles. 

Take  one-fourth  pound  of  veal,  four  ounces  of  calf's  liver,  three  ounces  of 
sausage-meat,  four  ounces  of  either  beef-marrow  or  calf's-kidney  fat,  and  a  little  mixed 
powdered  herbs;  mince  all  very  fine,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pound  in  a 
mortar;  add  a  handful  of  spinach,  which  ha3  been  blanched,  boiled,  drained,  and 
warmed  in  butter  the  same  quantity  of  curd  cheese,  which  has  been  squeezed  in  a 
cloth,  so  as  to  extract  all  the  milk,  and  pound  again;  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and  whisk  up  the  whites  and  add  them  to  it.  Make  some  short  paste  as  for 
rissoles,  and  cut  it  into  small  squares;  wet  the  edges  and  fold  them  over  a  little  of 


606  FARINACEOUS. 

ihe  forcemeat  placed  in  the  center,  and  poach  in  boiling  stock  for  five  minutes;  then 
drain,  place  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  moisten  with  stock, 
brown  in  the  oven,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Ravioles  for  Soups. 


Divide  one  pound  of  noodles  into  halves,  and  roll  them  both  out  very  thin, 
having  them  of  an  equal  size  and  as  nearly  square  as  possible.  Put  any  kind  of 
forcemeat  into  a  paper  funnel  and  squeeze  it  out  in  small  lumps,  in  rows,  over  one  of 
the  halves,  keeping  the  lumps  about  one  inch  apart,  cover  with  the  remaining  half  of 
the  paste,  pressing  it  down  between  the  forcemeat,  and  then  cut  out  the  ravioles  with 
a  small,  round  tin  cutter,  say  about  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter.  As  they 
are  done,  place  them  upon  a  well-floured  cloth,  using  only  half  of  it,  and  covering 
over  with  the  other  half.  When  all  the  ravioles  are  cut,  plunge  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  for  three  minutes;  then  remove  the  pan  from  the 
fire,  put  on  the  cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  four  minutes  longer.  Place  the  ravioles 
on  a  sieve  to  drain,  put  them  in  a  sautepan,  pour  over  four  ounces  of  melted  butter, 
and  strew  over  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Warm  them  for 
a  minute,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  toss  it;  then  remove  the  ravioles  with 
a  skimmer,  place  them  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  them  over  with  a  little  more  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  and  pour  over  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  glaze,  mixed  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  tomato  sauce.  A  tureenful  of  rich  soup  should  always  accompany  these. 

Rice   Border. 

Arrange  plain  boiled  rice  in  a  circle,  as  for  serving  curry,  or  work  it  into  a  border- 
mould,  as  follows:  Wash  thoroughly  in  two  or  three  waters  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
rice,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cold  water,  and  boil 
slowly  for  half  an  hour ;  then  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt.  Beat  this  mixture  up  until  it  is  very  smooth,  and  then  add  two  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Stir  thoroughly,  place  the  mixture  in  a  buttered  border-mould,  and 
stand  it  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  and  fill  the  center 
with  curry,  or  anything  else  prepared  for  the  purpose. 

Rice   Case   or   Croustade. 

Put  eight  ounces  of  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  water  and  one  ounce 
of  butter  or  fat  from  cooked  bacon,  sprinkle  in  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  boil  until 
the  rice  is  quite  tender  and  dry.  Place  it  in  a  mortar,  pound  it  well,  form  it  into  the 
shape  of  a  ball  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  then  into  the  shape  of  a  raised  pie.  Brush  it 
over  both  inside  and  out  with  warmed  butter,  set  it  in  the  oven  to  color,  take  it  out, 
and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  It  may  be  filled  with  forcemeat,  sausage-balls,  or  any- 
thing else  that  is  desired. 


FARINACEOUS.  607 

Rice   Croquettes,   Italian   Style. 

Put  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  rice  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  it  with  milk,  so  that 
when  it  is  done  it  will  be  soft  and  pasty.  Meanwhile  chop  fine  half  of  a  cold 
cooked  fat  liver,  season,  put  it  into  a  basin,  and  mix  in  a  third  of  its  bulk  of  truffles 
also  cut  fine.  Pour  one  breakfast  cupful  of  bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  add" 
the  trimmings  of  the  truffles,  reduce  the  liquor  and  add  one  teacupful  of  thick  gravy 
or  melted  glaze;  when  the  mixture  is  of  a  good  consistency,  strain  it  into  the  basin 
with  the  fat  liver.  Pack  the  basin  in  ice,  and  when  the  mixture  is  quite  cold,  take  a 
little  up  at  a  time  in  a  small  spoon,  roll  it  into  a  pear-shape,  and  cover  it  with  the 
rice,  taking  care  to  see  that  it  is  firm.  When  they  are  all  done,  dip  them  into  egg 
and  breadcrumbs,  fry  them  carefully  in  boiling  fat,  drain  them,  place  them  on  a  nap- 
kin, spread  over  a  dish,  garnish  neatly  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Croustades   of  Rice,  Queen   Style. 

Wash  well,  and  boil  in  a  saucepan  one  quart  of  rice  with  two  quarts  of  broth  and 
one  ounce  of  butter.  Keep  it  as  dry  as  possible,  so  that  it  remain  firm,  and  add  to  it 
one  ounce  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one-third  tea- 
spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg.  Stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  then  put  in  a  but- 
tered sautepan,  spreading  it  about  two  inches  thick,  and  covering  it  with  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper.  Leave  it  to  cool,  with  a  weight  pressed  down  on  the  top.  Then  cut 
it  out  with  a  paste-cutter  into  half  a  dozen  croustades  (being  careful  to  dip  the  cutter 
into  warm  water  each  time  it  is  used),  and  with  a  smaller  paste-cutter,  make  a  mark 
on  the  surface  of  each  without  cutting.  Dip  the  pieces  in  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in 
breadcrumbs,  and  repeat  this  operation;  then  fry  them  in  very  hot  lard  for  five  min- 
utes, drain,  empty  them  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  and  fill  the  insides  with  a  hot  salpicon 
of  shrimps,  mushrooms  and  cream  sauce.  Place  the  covers  on  the  top,  and  serve  'on 
a  dish  covered  with  a  folded  napkin. 

Curried   Rice. 

Mix  smoothly  one  dessertspoonful  of  curry-paste  with  one  tablespoonful  of  rich 
brown  gravy;  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  more  of  the  gravy  and 
boil;  then  add  to  it  one  pound  of  well-washed  rice,  and  simmer  it  gently  at  the  side 
of  the  fire  for  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  rice  is  done.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish, 
squeeze  over  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve. 

Fried    Rice. 

Boil  the  rice  and  cool  it  in  a  dish;  when  it  is  cold,  turn  it  from  the  dish,  cut  it 
into  slices  nearly  one  inch  thick,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  then  roll 
them  in  cornmeal.  Have  in  readiness  a  frying-kettle  half  full  of  smoking-hot  fat,  and 


608  FARINACEOUS. 

fry  the  pieces  of  rice  in  it  until  they  are  of  a  golden  brown.  Remove  them  from  the 
fat  with  a  skimmer,  place  them  on  brown  paper  for  a  moment  to  free  them  from 
grease,  and  serve. 

Rice  in   Turkish   Style. 

Put  three  pints  of  clear  stock  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  tomato  sauce  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  when  it  boils,  throw  in  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  well- 
washed  and  dried  rice,  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  mixture  is  well  absorbed  by  the 
rice.  Melt  a  large  lump  of  butter,  pour  it  over  the  rice,  and  leave  it  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  When  ready  to  serve,  stir  the  rice  well,  and  turn  it  onto 
a  hot  dish. 

Rice  Menagere. 

Put  six  ounces  of  well-washed  rice  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  blanch 
it  for  five  or  six  minutes;  then  remove  and  drain  it.  Blanch  four  or  five  ounces  of 
streaky  bacon,  cut  it  up  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square,  put  them  into  a  deep 
fryingpan  and  fry  them  until  they  are  yellow,  then  add  the  rice,  a  small  quantity  of 
pepper,  and  about  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  rich  broth.  Stir  often  over  the  fire  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  add  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  tomato  sauce,  turn  the  whole  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Rice   Milanese. 

Pour  one  teacupful  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  when  it  boils  add  one 
teacupful  of  well-washed  rice,  and  a  small  quantity  of  finely-chopped  onion.  Cover 
the  pan  and  boil  slowly  for  about  twenty  minutes,  by  which  time  the  rice  should  be 
soft  and  dry.  Add  a  little  saffron  worked  up  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  ounce 
of  grated  cheese,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Stir  well,  and  let  the  mixture  remain 
on  the  side  of  the  fire  for  ten  minutes,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Rice    Patties. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  well-washed  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  white 
stock  to  more  than  cover  it,  and  boil  slowly  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  rice  is  soft 
and  the  liquor  all  absorbed.  A  small  quantity  of  milk  should  be  added  to  the  broth 
to  give  the  rice  a  white  appearance.  Add  a  handful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  to 
flavor,  and  when  the  rice  is  nearly  of  a  jelly  turn  it  out  into  a  pan,  keeping  it  about 
two  inches  in  thickness.  Cut  the  preparation  into  rounds  with  a  tin  cutter. 

Rissotto. 

Peel  and  mince  fine  one  small  onion;  put  one  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan 
with  one-half  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire;  when  well  mixed,  put  in 


FARINACEOUS.  609 

the  onion,  and  fry  it  until  lightly  browned.  Wash  one-fourth  pound  of  rice,  drain  it, 
add  it  to  the  onion,  pour  in  enough  clear  stock  to  cook  it  in,  and  boil  until  the  grains 
have  swollen  but  not  mashed  to  a  pulp.  Shake  the  stewpan  occasionally,  but  do  not 
stir  the  rice  with  a  spoon.  When  it  is  cooked,  season  it  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  strain  in  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice.  Turn  the  rissotto  onto  a  hot  dish, 
strew  some  grated  Parmesan  cheese  over  it,  and  serve  without  delay. 

Milanese    Rissotto. 

Peel  and  mince  fine  a  small  onion,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  three  ounces  of 
butter,  and  fry  it  until  it  commences  to  brown;  then  put  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
well-washed  rice.  Fry  it  for  seven  or  eight  minutes,  and  pour  in  just  enough  stock  to 
boil  the  rice  in.  Add  a  pinch  of  saffron,  and  let  it  boil  slowly  and  gently  until 
tender.  When  the  rice  is  soft,  mix  with  it  one  breakfast  cupful  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  the  cheese  has  melted.  Cut  three  rounds  of 
bread,  toast  it  to  a  light  brown,  then  trim  off  the  crusts.  Butter  the  toast  and  lay  it 
on  a  hot  dish.  Season  the  rice-mixture  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  turn  it  onto  the 
toast,  and  serve. 


Spaghetti. 


A  variety  of  macaroni  which  has  given  its  name  to  various  dishes  prepared  with 
it.  Of  these  the  following  are  very  popular: 

Baked   Spaghetti. 

Boil  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  spaghetti,  moistening  it  with  one-half  pint  each 
of  bechamel  sauce  and  allemande  sauce,  seasoning  with  one-half  pinch  of  ground  nut- 
meg, one  pinch  of  pepper,  and  adding  one-fourth  pound  of  grated  cheese.  Toss  well, 
put  it  into  a  baking-dish,  sprinkle  the  top  with  grated  cheese  and  breadcrumbs,  pour 
over  a  little  clarified  butter  and  place  it  in  the  oven.  At  the  end  of  about  fifteen 
minutes,  when  it  should  be  of  a  nice  golden-brown  color,  take  it  from  the  oven,  and 
serve. 

Spaghetti,    Italian   Style. 

Put  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  boiled  spaghetti  into  a  saucepan,  add  one  pint  of 
tomato  sauce  and  one-fourth  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  season  with  one- 
half  pinch  of  pepper  and  one-half  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg.  Cook  for  ten  minutes, 
tossing  well,  and  serve  with  more  cheese. 

Spaghetti,   Neapolitan   Style. 

Boil  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  fine  spaghetti,  drain  it  and  put  it  back  into  a 
saucepan  with  one-half  pint  each  of  tomato  and  Spanish  sauce,  six  mushrooms,  two 


6io  FARINACEOUS. 

truffles  and  a  small  piece  of  cooked,  smoked  red  beef  tongue,  all  cut  up  dice-shaped; 
season  with  one-half  pinch  of  pepper  and  one-third  of  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg, 
adding  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  and 
serve  with  some  cheese,  separately. 


Spaghetti  with   Cheese. 


Put  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  spaghetti,  broken  into  small  pieces,  in  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water,  with  a  lump  of  salt,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain  the  spag- 
hetti, and  place  it  in  a  buttered  baking-dish.  Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  grated 
cheese  into  a  saucepan  with  one  teacupful  of  milk,  and  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  the  cheese  is  nearly  melted.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  together  with  one  teacupful  of  milk,  then  stir  them  in  with  the  cheese,  and 
pour  the  whole  over  the  spaghetti,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  till  of  a  rich  yellow 
color.  The  cheese  will  be  rendered  tough  if  cooked  too  long.  The  spaghetti  should 
be  served  while  very  hot. 

Spaghetti   with    Cream   Sauce. 

Take  one  handful  of  the  stick  macaroni  without  breaking  it,  plunge  it  into  boiling 
salted  water,  and  boil  until  tender.  As  the  stick  softens,  bend  and  coil  it  in  the  water, 
but  be  careful  not  to  break.  When  cooked  drain  the  spaghetti,  and  pour  cold  water 
through  it.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

Welsh   Rabbit. 

(1)  Chop  fine  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  cooking-cheese,  put  it  in  a  saucepan 
with   two  ounces  of  butter,  and  as  the  cheese  gets  warm  and  the  butter  melts,  mash 
them  together.     When   softened,  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one-half  teacupful  of 
beer,  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne  and  salt.     Stir  until  it  becomes  creamy,  but  do 
not  permit  it  to  boil,  as  that  would  spoil  it.     Place  some  slices  of  buttered  toast  on  a 
dish,  pour  the  Welsh  rabbit  over,  and  place  in  the  oven  for  about  two  minutes  before 
serving.     Some  persons  prefer  milk  in  place  of  beer. 

(2)  Take   one-fourth  pound  of  cheese,  and,  if  soft,  break  it  into  small  pieces; 
but  if  hard,  grate  it.      Place  half  a  teacupful  of  milk  in  a    double  boiler  and    add 
the  cheese.     Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard  and  a  little  cayenne,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  add  an  egg,  and  beat  well.     After  the  cheese  has  melted,  add  the  egg  mix- 
ture and  one  teaspoonful  of  butter;  then  cook  for  two  minutes  longer,  or  until  it  is 
done,  taking  care  not  to  let  it  curdle.     Pour  the  mixture  over  four  slices  of  toast,  free 
from   crusts,  and  that  have  been   kept  warm,  and  then  serve.     Ale  may  be  used  in 
place  of  the  milk,  or  cream,  if  preferred. 


FARINACEOUS.  611 

(3)  Cut  up  into  small  pieces  one  pound  of  American  cheese,  place  them  in  a 
saucepan,  pour  over  half  a  tumblerful  of  good  ale,  and  season  with  half  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  cayenne  pepper.  Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  continually  over  the  fire  until  the 
mixture  is  well  melted,  which  will  take  about  ten  minutes.  Have  previously  pre- 
pared six  large  pieces  of  toast,  arrange  them  on  a  very  hot  dish,  pour  over  the  prep- 
aration, spreading  it  equally,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Baked   Welsh    Rabbit. 

Cut  six  slices  of  bread,  toast  slightly,  cover  with  Gruyere  cheese  cut  into  slices  a 
little  less  than  one-half  an  inch  thick,  and  lay  them  in  a  roasting  pan,  sprinkling  over 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  cover  with  browned  breadcrumbs.  Place  the  pan  in  the 
oven  for  about  ten  minutes.  Arrange  the  toast  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Welsh    Rabbit,   Oscar   Style. 


For  one  rabbit,  take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  American  cheese,  cut  it  in 
small  pieces,  take  also  a  pinch  of  Paprika  pepper,  a  pinch  of  powdered  English  mus- 
tard and  about  half  a  wineglassful  of  Rhine  wine  and  half  a  wineglassful  of  Bass  ale. 
Cook  the  whole  together  on  a  hot  stove  until  the  rabbit  is  well  dissolved,  and  serve  it 
with  a  piece  of  toast  in  a  very  hot  dish. 


Hot  Desserts. 

Apple    Float. 

Rub  a  sufficient  quantity  of  stewed  apples  through  a  coarse  sieve,  or  mash  them 
thoroughly.  Sweeten  with  sugar  and  flavor  with  nutmeg,  and  add  a  spoonful  at  a 
time  to  the  well-beaten  whites  of  eggs  (four  eggs  to  each  quart  of  apples  used).  Put 
in  some  cream  and  season  with  nutmeg  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  placing  the  apples 
on  top.  Put  in  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Fried    Apples. 

The  apples  should  be  cut  into  slices  unpeeled  and  fried,  a  few  at  a  time,  in  a 
large  fryingpan  with  enough  fat  or  lard  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  When  the 
slices  are  brown  on  one  side,  turn  them  over  with  a  knife.  Then  place  in  a  dripping- 
pan  and  put  in  the  oven.  If  desired  the  slices  of  apple  may  be  placed  in  flour  before 
frying,  and  if  soaked  in  cognac  or  rum  the  result  is  agreeable. 

Baked   Apples. 

Core  and  peel  some  good  cooking  apples  and  set  them  nearly  touching  each 
other  in  a  shallow  bakingpan;  mix  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon  rind  with  each  six 
teaspoonfuls  of  sugar  requisite,  and  fill  the  cavities  caused  by  the  removal  of  the 
cores,  pour  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  bake 
in  a  very  quick  oven  until  soft,  basting  frequently  with  the  syrup  formed  of  the  water 
and  sugar. 

Apricot   Snowballs. 

Divide  a  sufficient  quantity  of  boiled  rice  into  six  equal  parts,  and  spread  each 
over  a  small,  wet  pudding-cloth  placed  over  a  small  basin  to  about  a  third  of  an  inch 
in  thickness.  Cut  half  a  dozen  apricots  only  sufficient  to  extract  the  stones,  fill  the 
cavities  with  a  little  of  the  cooked  rice,  put  them  in  the  center  of  the  rice,  and  draw 
the  cloths  gently  around  until  the  apricots  are  covered  with  the  rice;  then  tie  them 
securely,  and  put  them  in  a  steamer  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  steam  for 
ten  minutes.  Take  out  carefully  and  remove  the  cloths,  put  them  on  a  dish  and  pour 
over  a  little  sauce  made  from  apricot  syrup,  and  serve. 

612 


HOT  DESSERTS.  613 

Baked    Bananas. 

Remove  the  skin  from  the  bananas  and  cut  them  lengthwise  in  halves  and  arrange 
at  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish  close  together.  Sprinkle  them  over  with  sugar,  with 
a  few  lumps  of  butter  on  top  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg  over  the  whole,  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  By  this  time  the  bananas  should  be  well  glazed, 
and  if  there  is  not  sufficient  of  their  own  liquor  to  baste  them  with  add  a  little  to  the 
dish  a  few  minutes  before  taking  out  of  the  oven.  They  should  be  served  with  cake 
and  milk. 

Apple   Charlotte. 

Take  a  loaf  of  stale  bread  and,  after  removing  all  the  crusts  with  a  sharp  knife, 
cut  up  the  crumb  into  slices  a  third  of  an  inch  thick,  and  these  slices  again  into  fancy 
shapes,  such  as  hearts,  triangles,  squares,  rounds,  etc.  Cut  out  a  round  an  inch  and 
a  half  in  diameter  and  lay  in  the  center  of  the  bottom  of  a  round  tin  mould,  then 
shape  out  several  hearts  large  enough  for  the  points  to  rest  on  the  disc,  while  their 
rounded  points  touch  the  sides  of  the  mould.  Next  cut  some  slices  of  the  bread  into 
rectangular  strips  and  set  them  around  the  sides  of  the  mould,  standing  upright,  rest- 
ing on  the  round  ends  of  the  hearts  and  overlapping  each  other.  Dip  each  piece  of 
bread  in  warmed  butter  before  setting  in  the  mould.  Have  ready  some  thick  apple 
marmalade  prepared  thus:  Peel  and  core  some  apples  and  cut  them  into  slices,  then 
place  in  a  saucepan  and  put  in  some  sugar,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  cut  thin  and  a  bit  of 
cinnamon  tied  together.  Moisten  with  a  little  water.  Put  upon  the  stove  and  boil 
and  then  let  simmer  until  the  apples  fall.  Remove  and  take  out  the  lemon  peel  and 
cinnamon  and  stir  briskly  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  marmalade  is  of  a  stiff  con- 
sistency. Pour  this  into  the  bread-lined  mould  and  cover  the  top  with  a  slice  of 
bread  dipped  in  the  warmed  butter  and  cut  to  fit  the  mould.  Put  the  charlotte  into 
a  brisk  oven  and  bake  until  the  bread  is  a  golden  brown.  Turn  out  onto  a  dish  and 
sprinkle  caster  sugar  over  it  and  then  glaze  it  with  a  very  hot  salamander,  pouring 
apricot  marmalade  around  the  dish;  or,  instead  of  the  glazed  sugar,  cover  the  char- 
lotte over  with  apricot  marmalade. 

Peach   Charlotte. 

Peel  six  peaches,  cut  them  in  halves  and  take  out  their  stones;  chop  them  in 
little  pieces,  put  them  in  a  basin,  sprinkle  some  vanilla  sugar  over  and  one  wineglass- 
ful  of  rum.  Cut  some  thin  slices  of  cake  into  fingers  and  line  a  charlotte  mould  with 
them,  letting  them  overlap  each  other.  Stand  the  mould  in  a  basin  and  surround  it 
with  pounded  ice.  In  fifteen  minutes  put  a  layer  of  peaches  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mould.  Whip  a  little  unset  jelly  with  some  maraschino,  then  pour  sufficient  into  the 
mould  to  cover  the  peaches.  Leave  it  till  the  jelly  has  set,  then  put  in  another  layer 
of  peaches  and  some  more  jelly;  continue  in  the  same  manner  till  the  mould  is  full, 


614  HOT  DESSERTS. 

allowing  the  jelly  to  set  before  another  layer  is  put  in.  Lay  a  cover  over  the  mould 
and  keep  it  in  ice  for  half  an  hour.  Turn  the  charlotte  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish, 
dip  a  paste-brush  in  some  maraschino  and  brush  all  round  to  flavor  it.  Peel  three 
whole  peaches,  cut  them  in  quarters,  garnish  round  the  base  of  the  charlotte  with 
them,  pour  some  maraschino  syrup  over,  and  serve. 

Pear   Charlotte. 

Cut  some  thin  slices  of  stale  bread,  without  the  crust,  and  cut  out  a  round  with  a 
one  and  one-half  inch  in  diameter  tin-cutter,  then  cut  some  heart-shaped  pieces  of 
bread,  and  dip  them  and  the  round  piece  in  warmed  butter.  Put  the  latter  at  the 
bottom  of  a  plain  round  charlotte  mould,  arrange  the  heart-shaped  pieces  overlapping 
each  other  round  it,  cut  the  slices  of  bread  into  strips  one  and  one-half  inches  wide 
and  of  the  height  of  the  mould,  dip  them  in  butter  and  stand  them  all  round  the 
mould,  also  overlapping  each  other.  Pare  and  core  fifteen  pears,  cut  them  in  quar- 
ters, put  them  in  a  sautepan  with  a  little  butter  and  vanilla  sugar,  and  fry  them.  Put 
the  pears  in  the  mould  when  cooked,  and  brown  the  charlotte  in  the  oven.  Turn  the 
charlotte  out  on  a  hot  dish,  mask  it  with  reduced  apricot  jam,  and  serve. 


Pineapple   Charlotte. 

A  charlotte  mould  should  be  lined  with  paper  and  some  lady-fingers  pointed  on 
one  side  and  arranged  like  a  rosette  with  their  glazed  sides  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mould;  then  place  some  long  thin  biscuits  the  same  height  as  the  mould,  around  the 
sides,  standing  upright,  and  place  the  mould  in  pounded  ice.  Mix  with  a  pint  of  pine- 
apple syrup,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  dissolved  gelatine,  a  small  quantity  of 
grated  lemon-peel  and  the  juice  of  an  orange ;  strain  the  liquor  through  a  sieve  into  a  sugar- 
boiler  and  stir  it  over  a  fire  until  it  becomes  of  the  consistency  of  cream,  then  remove 
and  mix  with  it  half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  and  half  a  pound  of  either  fresh  pine- 
apple cut  into  small  pieces,  or  the  preserved  pineaple.  Then  fill  the  lined  mould 
with  this  preparation  and  leave  it  for  about  an  hour  to  become  set.  Turn  the  char- 
lotte out  onto  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Conde   Apricots. 

Divide  and  remove  the  kernels  from  some  apricots  and  stew  in  a  light  syrup 
until  done,  together  with  the  rind  of  a  little  lemon,  pared  thin.  Next  prepare  a  bor- 
der of  rice  suited  to  the  dish  to  be  used  and  fill  the  center  with  the  apricot;  pour 
some  whipped  cream  over  it  just  before  serving  with  a  sprinkle  of  pistachio  nuts 
chopped  very  fine. 

Apple   Croquettes. 

An  apple  marmalade  is  prepared  as  for  apple-bread  and  formed  by  the  hands 
into  the  shape  of  pears.  Have  two  or  three  well-whisked  eggs  in  a  dish  or  basin,  dip 


HOT   DESSERTS.  615 

each  croquette  into  this  and  throw  them  afterwards  into  a  dish  of  very  fine  bread- 
crumbs. Smooth  them  over  with  a  knife  and  dip  a  second  time  into  the  egg.  Fry 
in  a  sautepan  of  very  best  lard  until  the  bread  colors  a  golden  brown.  Remove  and 
place  on  a  sieve  to  drain  and  then  pile  pyramid-fashion  on  a  folded  napkin  and  dust 
freely  with  sifted  sugar  which  has  been  flavored  with  orange. 


Rice    Croquettes   (Sweet.) 


Put  one-half  pint  of  well-washed  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  water,  or 
milk  and  water  in  equal  proportions,  and  steam  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  rice  is 
quite  soft.  When  it  is  still  hot,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of 
butter,  the  yolk  of  an  egg  well  beaten,  and  a  small  quantity  of  hot  milk,  if  required, 
to  moisten  it.  Let  it  get  cool;  then  make  it  into  oval  shapes,  and  put  them  into 
breadcrumbs,  egg,  and  then  crumbs  again,  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes  in  boiling  fat 
until  done  and  light  brown  in  color.  After  making  the  mixture  into  oval  shapes, 
some  cooks  push  the  thumb  into  the  center  of  each,  and  in  the  cavity  place  two  boiled 
raisins  or  candied  cherries,  or  a  little  jelly  or  marmalade,  then  press  the  rice  over  the 
hole  again;  then  dip  in  breadcrumbs,  after  in  egg,  and  lastly  in  crumbs,  and  fry. 

Fruit   Crusts. 

Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  into  pieces  one  inch  thick  with  an  oval  cutter,  also  some 
others  of  a  round  shape;  scoop  out  a  small  hollow  in  the  center  of  them,  fry  in  butter 
until  lightly  browned,  and  mask  them  inside  with  a  little  orange  marmalade.  Mix 
some  preserved  cherries  with  a  salpicon  of  preserved  fruits,  thicken  it  with  a  little 
apricot  marmalade,  and  add  a  little  Madeira  or  sherry  wine;  put  some  fruit  in  the 
hollow  of  each  crust.  Fry  a  thick,  round,  flat  block  of  bread,  put  it  in  the  center 
of  a  dish  and  arrange  the  oval  crusts  almost  upright,  leaning  around  it;  lay  the 
round  crusts  on  the  top,  stick  some  fruits  on  silver  skewers  and  fix  them  in  the 
top  of  the  bread  support.  Mask  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  the  crusts  with  a  little 
apricot  sauce  to  which  has  been  added  a  little  Madeira,  and  serve  with  more  sauce 
in  a  sauceboat,  with  a  few  Smyrna  raisins  that  have  been  boiled  in  syrup  for  two 
minutes  mixed  up  in  it. 

Pineapple   Crusts. 

Place  in  a  basin  one  pound  of  the  best  sifted  flour,  make  a  hollow  in  the 
center  and  put  in  it  half  an  ounce  of  German  yeast  and  a  tablespoonful  of  warmed 
milk.  Stir  in  sufficient  amount  of  flour  to  form  a  sponge,  then  set  it  to  rise  in 
a  warm  place.  When  it  has  risen  to  twice  its  original  size,  work  in  the  remainder 
of  the  flour  a  teacupful  of  tepid  milk  and  a  couple  of  eggs;  then  add  another 
egg,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  beaten  until  creamy,  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  caster  sugar,  a  little  salt  and  half  a  teacupful  of  warm  milk;  work  the  paste  thor- 
oughly and  add  eight  more  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  Butter  a  plain  cylinder-mould 


616  HOT  DESSERTS. 

eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  pour  in  the  cake  mixture  and  bake;  when  it  may 
be  turned  out  of  the  mould  and  left  until  cold.  Cut  into  slices  and  lay  on  a  baking- 
sheet,  dredge  well  with  caster  sugar  and  glaze  in  an  oven.  Then  peel  and  slice  some 
pineapples,  place  in  a  stewpan  with  some  thin  syrup  and  simmer  them  gently;  set  the 
trimmings  of  the  pineapple  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  them  thoroughly,  then  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  arranging  the  crusts  and  pineapple  slices  alternately  on 
the  dish,  forming  them  in  a  circle.  Boil  the  syrup  in  which  the  pineapples  have 
been  cooked,  till  it  is  reduced  to  32  degrees,  when  it  may  be  mixed  with  the  pounded 
pineapple,  and  the  whole  strained  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  over  the  crusts  and 
pineapple.  Then  serve. 

Apple   Custard. 

Take  some  apple  marmalade  or  stewed  apples,  and  warm  up  with  a  little  finely- 
powdered  sugar,  let  this  stand  in  a  basin  until  cold.  Beat  up  some  eggs  until  very 
light  and  stir  and  beat  them  well  into  some  new  milk  ;  a  little  cream  enriches  the 
custard.  Mix  this  up  with  the  apples,  pour  into  a  deep  dish,  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes. 

Apple   Custard   with   Vanilla. 

Strongly  flavor  with  vanilla  half  a  pound  of  marmalade  (apple),  and  squeeze 
through  a  tammy  cloth.  Work  up  three  ounces  of  warmed  butter  with  a  spoon  in  a 
basin  until  creamed,  gradually  putting  into  it  the  yolks  of  a  dozen  eggs  and  the  white 
of  one.  When  this  is  worked  frothy,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-powdered  loaf 
sugar  and  the  apple  marmalade.  Stir  well  and  throw  in  a  couple  of  handfuls  of  rata- 
fia biscuits.  Pour  the  whole  into  a  buttered  mould,  and  let  it  poach  for  some  time  in 
the  bain-marie.  Turn  out  onto  a  warmed  dish,  and  mask  with  almond  cream,  thick- 
ened with  apricot  marmalade. 


Baked  Apple   Dumplings. 


These  are  made  with  a  good  short  or  tart  crust.  First  pare  the  apples  whole,  and 
then  cut  out  the  core  with  a  corer,  filling  up  the  cavity  with  sugar,  butter  and  a  little 
cinnamon  or  a  clove.  Cut  some  rounds  of  paste  rather  larger  than  the  apples,  and 
cover  them  leaving  no  openings.  The  dumplings  should  be  baked  in  a  pan,  and  the 
juice  which  will  ooze  out  should  be  retained,  as  by  adding  butter  and  nutmeg  it  forms 
a  capital  sauce  in  which  to  serve  them.  Before  the  dumplings  are  quite  done 
(they  usually  take  about  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven),  the  tops  should  be  moistened 
and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  sprinkled  over  them  to  glaze.  The  dumplings  are 
sometimes  baked  in  a  pan  or  deep  baking-dish  nearly  full  of  a  rich  sauce,  made  of 
water,  sugar  and  a  good-sized  lump  of  butter,  together  with  a  little  cinnamon.  They 
should  be  well  covered  with  this  syrup  a  little  being  poured  over  them  before 
serving. 


HOT  DESSERTS.  617 

Boiled    Apple    Dumplings. 

Pare  some  large  apples,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  take  out  the  cores.  Take 
a  piece  of  crust  made  from  good  puff  paste,  and  roll  it  out  to  sufficient  size  to  cover 
an  apple,  roll  the  crust  around  the  apple  and  make  into  a  ball.  Dip  a  clean  cloth  into 
a  pot  of  boiling  water  and  shake  flour  over  it.  Tie  each  dumpling  separately  and 
drop  it  into  the  boiling  water.  If  the  crust  is  sufficiently  light  and  the  apples  not 
too  large,  half  an  hour  will  be  long  enough  to  boil  them ;  but  if  very  large,  the 
apples  will  require  nearly  an  hour.  Serve  with  fresh  butter  and  sugar,  or  the  butter 
and  sugar  may  be  melted  together,  making  a  sauce,  with  a  little  essence  of  lemon 
added,  to  flavor. 

Currant   Dumplings. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  beef-suet  and  chop  fine;  put  in  a  basin  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  pound  of  breadcrumbs,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  half  a  pound 
of  cleaned  currants.  Mix  all  these  well  together,  and  stir  in  three-quarters  of  a  pint 
of  milk.  Dip  the  center  of  a  pudding-cloth  into  boiling  water,  wring  it  out,  dredge  a 
little  flour  over,  and  spread  the  floured  cloth  over  the  top  of  a  basin,  pour  the  dump- 
ling into  it,  tie  the  cloth  tightly  with  a  piece  of  strong  twine,  and  put  the  dumpling 
into  a  large  saucepan  of  boiling  water;  add  to  the  water  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
and  boil  fast  for  three  hours,  being  careful  not  to  allow  the  boil  to  slacken;  should 
the  water  waste  much,  replenish  it  from  a  kettle  kept  boiling  for  the  purpose.  When 
the  dumpling  is  done,  remove  with  care  from  the  cloth,  and  turn  onto  a  hot  dish. 

Fruit    Dumplings. 

Roll  out  sufficient  suet-crust  to  make  eight  dumplings,  cut  it  into  rounds  four 
inches  in  diameter,  fill  each  one  separately  with  different  kinds  of  fruits,  put  on  the 
top  of  each  a  little  mixture  made  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sifted  breadcrumbs  mixed 
with  an  egg,  sweetened  with  sugar  and  flavored  with  grated  lemon  peel;  roll  up  to  form 
balls,  tie  each  one  separately  in  a  cloth,  and  boil  for  forty-five  minutes.  When  done, 
turn  it  out,  pour  over  a  wine  sauce,  and  serve. 

Lemon   Dumplings. 

Mince  one-half  pound  of  beef-suet  very  fine,  then  mix  with  it  one-half  pound 
of  grated  breadcrumbs,  one-fourth  pound  of  sugar,  and  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon; 
stir  all  together  well  with  two  beaten  eggs.  Form  the  preparation  into  dumplings, 
and  boil  them,  tied  in  cloths,  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Baked    Peach   Dumplings. 

Mix  one  teaspoonful  each  of  cream  of  tartar  and  bicarbonate  of  soda  with  one 
quart  of  flour;  add  a  little  salt,  sift  them  together,  and  make  into  a  paste,  with  a  little 


618  HOT   DESSERTS. 

milk  and  water.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  on  the  table,  and  roll  the  paste  out  several 
times,  putting  little  pieces  of  lard  on  it  to  the  amount  of  six  ounces.  Roll  out  thin 
the  last  time,  and  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  biscuit-cutter.  Put  two  or  three  pieces  of 
canned  peaches  on  each  round,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
fine  sugar.  Draw  the  edges  firmly  together  and  place  the  dumplings  on  a  large 
deep  baking-dish,  put  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  quickly.  When  done,  place  them 
on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  powdered  sugar  over,  and  serve. 


Pear  Dumplings. 


Make  a  good  pastry,  and  cut  it  in  pieces  large  enougn  to  enclose  a  medium- 
sized  pear;  peel  some  pears,  leaving  them  whole,  and  keeping  the  stem  intact,  enclose 
them  in  pastry,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven, 
Serve  them,  either  hot  or  cold,  with  powdered  sugar  or  sauce. 

Egg  Cheese  Cakes. 

Boil  half  a  dozen  eggs  hard  and  lay  them  in  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
then  peel  them.  Rub  them,  with  six  ounces  of  butter,  through  a  fine  wire-sieve,  and 
mix  in  four  ounces  of  well-washed  and  dried  currants,  two  crumbled,  stale  sponge 
cakes,  one  teacupful  of  moist  sugar,  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg,  moisten- 
ing with  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs  and  three-quarters  of  a  wineglassful 
of  brandy.  Buttei  some  small  pattypans,  line  them  with  puff  paste,  trim,  fill  them 
with  the  mixture  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  When  cooked,  t'irn  them  out  of  the 
pans,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Eggs,  Duchess  Style. 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  a 
little  lemon  peel  and  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon,  adding  half  a  teaspoonful  of  orange- 
flower  water  and  mix  together.  Beat  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  with  one  pint  of  milk 
or  cream;  add  this  to  the  syrup  with  a  very  little  salt;  transfer  the  whole  to  a  bak- 
ing-dish, place  it  on  a  hot  stove,  and  cook  the  contents  for  ten  minutes,  stirring 
briskly.  When  it  forms  a  cream,  stir  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  remove  the  dish  from 
the  fire,  place  it  on  another  dish,  and  serve. 

Egg  Snow  with  Coffee   Cream. 

Whip  the  whites  of  five  eggs  to  a  firm  froth  and  mix  in  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
caster  sugar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  coffee  extract.  Put  in  a  stewpan  one  quart  of 
milk,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  boil;  then  add  the  beaten  whites,  one 
tablespoonful  at  a  time,  and  stand  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire.  When  the  whites 
are  done,  take  them  out,  drain  and  let  cool.  Put  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  beaten  up 


HOT   DESSERTS.  619 

with  one  teacupful  of  the  sweetened  milk  in  which  the  whites  were  cooked,  into  a 
stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thick,  but  without  boiling;  strain,  and  when  cool, 
mix  in  one  tablespoonful  more  of  the  extract.  Arrange  the  poached  whites  in  a  circle 
on  a  dish,  pour  the  coffee-cream  over,  and  serve. 


Eggs,    Turkish   Style. 


Blanch  and  pound  four  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts  in  a  mortar,  adding  occasionally 
a  few  drops  of  milk  to  keep  them  from  oiling,  and  put  them  into  a  lined  saucepan 
with  one  dessertspoonful  of  ground  rice  and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  adding  also 
half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  piece  of  stick  cinnamon;  beat  all  until  well  mixed  and 
pour  in  gradually  one  quart  of  cream  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thickened.  Pour 
some  syrup  into  a  flat  stewpan,  and  break  carefully  one  dozen  new-laid  eggs  into  it, 
to  poach.  Take  the  cinnamon  out  of  the  mixture,  pour  it  on  a  dish,  place  the  poached 
eggs  around  it,  garnish  with  macaroons  soaked  in  brandy,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Apricot    Flawn. 


Butter  a  flawn  circle  and  place  on  a  baking-sheet,  then  line  with  puff  paste  or 
trimmings,  and  trim  off  level  to  the  rim.  Mask  the  bottom  with  a  thin  layer  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  upon  this  sugar  arrange  halves  of  peeled  or  canned  apricots 
until  the  flawn  is  full.  Ornament  the  rim  with  a  strip  of  paste  which  has  be?*:  stamped, 
and  sprinkle  over  with  sugar,  baking  in  a  slack  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 


Cherry   Flawn. 


Put  three  pounds  of  cherries  into  a  preserving  pan,  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar, 
and  some  water,  and  cook  them  until  done.  Strain  the  syrup  into  a  saucepan,  thicken 
it  by  reducing,  put  in  about  a  quarter  of  the  cherries,  and  reduce  again  until  it  falls 
in  sheets  from  the  spoon.  Line  with  puff  paste  a  flawn  ring,  put  in  the  cherries  that 
are  not  crystallized,  and  bake  for  forty-five  minutes  in  a  quick  oven,  spreading  a  piece 
of  buttered  paper  over  the  top.  Take  away  the  paper,  dampen  the  crust,  and' dust 
with  sugar;  glaze  this  with  a  salamander,  or  in  the  oven,  and  pour  over  the  crystal- 
lized cherries  together  with  the  syrup,  and  serve. 

Peach   Flawn. 

Put  eight  not  very  ripe  peaches  in  boiling  water  to  loosen  their  skins,  then  drain 
and  peel  them;  cut  them  into  halves,  remove  the  stones,  and  put  them  into  a  flat  stew- 
pan. Mix  some  kirsch  with  syrup  and  pour  it  over  the  peaches.  Peel  and  take  out 
the  stones  of  five  or  six  small  peaches,  chop  them  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
little  more  than  one-half  tumbler  full  of  syrup;  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  boiling,  adding 
gradually  a  little  potato  flour.  When  thick  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  add  a 


620  HOT   DESSERTS. 

wineglassful  of  kirsch  and  a  stick  of  vanilla,  and  keep  it  hot  in  the  bain-marie. 
Butter  a  flawn-mould,  line  it  with  short  paste,  put  a  buttered  paper  round,  and  bake 
it  in  a  slack  oven;  when  done,  take  the  buttered  paper  out,  spread  some  apricot 
marmalade  all  round  the  inside  of  the  paste,  take  it  out  of  the  mould  and  stand  it  on 
a  dish.  Warm  the  peaches  gradually,  but  do  not  boil  them.  Drain,  and  pile  them 
inside  the  crust,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  peach  marmalade, 
arrange  some  preserved  fruits  of  various  colors  over  them,  mix  together  in  equal 
quantities  some  kirsch  and  syrup,  and  pour  it  over  them.  Put  the  peach  puree  in  a 
sauceboat,  and  serve  it  with  the  peaches. 

Pear   Flawn. 

Prepare  a  good  paste  with  eight  ounces  of  flour  and  some  butter,  roll  it  out  into 
a  round  about  ten  inches  in  diameter,  then  gather  it  up  about  two  inches  all  round 
the  edges,  which  crimp  and  decorate  with  a  wreath  of  paste  leaves.  The  edges  of 
the  flawn  should  be  moistened  with  a  little  water  to  make  them  stick.  Peel  some 
fine  pears,  cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise  and  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  some 
sugar,  the  juice  of  one  or  two  lemons  and  the  thinly-pared  and  shred  rind  of  one 
lemon.  Cook  the  pears  slowly  till  tender,  and  leave  them  till  cold.  Bind  a  strip  of 
buttered  paper  round  the  flawn,  fill  it  with  the  pears  and  their  syrup  and  bake  for 
three-fourths  of  an  hour.  When  cooked  take  the  paper  off  the  flawn,  glaze  it  over 
with  apricot  marmalade  and  serve  it. 

Almond   Custard   Fritters. 

Beat  up  five  eggs  to  each  pound  of  flour  and  pour  in  by  degrees  some  new  milk, 
taking  care  to  keep  the  mixture  smooth.  Stir  this  over  a  gentle  stove  for  twenty 
minutes  or  so,  until  the  custard  is  sufficiently  thickened,  when  add  a  mixture  of  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  blanched  and  well-pounded  almonds,  six 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  a  pinch  or  so  of  salt.  This  will  then  form  a  thick  custard,  which 
may  be  spread  on  a  slightly  buttered  baking-sheet,  and  when  cold  it  may  be  cut  into 
pieces  about  two  inches  by  one  and  a  quarter  inches.  Dip  these  pieces  in  egg  and 
breadcrumbs  and  fry  in  very  hot  fat  until  slightly  colored,  then  drain  by  skimmer, 
dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  piled  up  on  a  folded  napkin  or  dish-paper. 


Apple   Fritters. 


Peel  and  core  the  apples  and  cut  into  slices  about  a  third  of  an  inch  thick;  dip 
in  batter  and  fry  for  six  minutes  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish.  The  apples 
may  be  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  allowed  to  stand  for  an  hour 
before  frying;  in  the  latter  case  sprinkle  with  the  sugar  when  they  are  served. 


HOT   DESSERTS.  621 

Apricot    Fritters. 

Use  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  to  each  full  pound  of  broche  paste  and  set  it 
for  three  hours  to  rise;  then  lay  the  paste  on  a  slab,  fold  it  over  and  roll  out  thick; 
fold  again  and  place  in  a  basin  on  ice.  When  quite  firm  roll  it  to  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  thick  and  stamp  out  rounds  with  a  cutter  two  inches  in  diameter;  moisten  the 
top  edges  of  the  rounds  with  a  brush  dipped  in  water  and  put  a  little  apricot  jam  into 
the  center  of  each;  cover  this  with  a  second  round  of  paste  and  press  the  two  to- 
gether, taking  care  to  have  the  edges  stick  closely.  Prick  with  a  skewer  points  on 
top  one-sixth  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  and  fry  the  fritters  in  warm  fat;  drain  and 
sprinkle  fine  sugar  over  them.  Pile  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  ornamental  sugar  piping. 

Banana   Fritters. 

Peel  and  cut  into  halves  (if  large)  the  bananas  and  soak  in  a  mixture  of  rum  and 
sugar.  Then  take  out  and  dip  them  into  a  thin  batter,  plunge  into  a  fryingpan  of 
boiling  lard,  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Then  take  out,  drain,  drop  into  powdered 
sugar,  and  serve  with  sweet  sauce  or  syrup  poured  over  them. 

Fritters   Bonne    Femme. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  one  ounce  of  butter  to  melt  and  mix  in  with  it 
two  ounces  of  sifted  crushed  loaf  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and  a  tumberful 
of  water.  When  the  liquor  boils,  sift  in  sufficient  potato  flour  to  make  a  stiff  paste, 
and  stir  well  until  the  mixture  adheres  to  the  saucepan.  Turn  the  preparation  into  a 
basin,  let  it  cool,  but  not  get  cold,  and  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  singly,  beating  each 
one  in  for  about  four  minutes  before  another  is  added.  When  all  the  yolks  are 
worked  in,  spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish,  keeping  it  about  one  inch  in  thickness,  and 
let  it  get  cold.  Take  it  up  in  small  lumps  about  the  size  of  walnuts,  drop  them  into 
a  fryingpan  of  boiling  lard,  and  shake  the  pan  well  until  the  fritters  are  swollen  and 
of  a  golden  color.  Take  them  out,  drain,  put  them  on  a  napkin,  dust  over  with 'fine 
sugar,  and  serve. 

Cream    Fritters. 

Put  one  teacupful  of  flour  into  a  basin  with  an  equal  quantity  of  pounded  maca- 
roons, a  few  dried  orange  flowers  that  have  been  browned  in  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
finely-shredded  candied  lemon  peel,  and  one  or  two  small  lumps  of  sugar.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  nine  or  ten  eggs,  mix  them  with  one-half  pint  of  milk  and  one-half  pint  of 
cream,  and  stir  in  gradually  with  the  other  ingredients,  then  add  the  beaten  whites  of 
three  eggs.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  thick 
and  boiling.  Pour  it  into  a  well-floured  dish,  dredge  flour  over  it,  and  leave  it  until 
cold.  Cut  the  paste  into  small  pieces,  roll  them  out  round,  place  them  in  a  fryingpan 


622  HOT  DESSERTS. 

with  some  hot  butter,  and  fry  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  the  fritters,  arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  and  sprinkle  over  caster 
sugar.  Serve  while  hot. 

French    Fritters. 

Mix  to  a  paste  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  with  one  pint  of  milk.  Put  a  pint  of 
milk  in  a  saucepan  and  as  soon  as  it  boils,  mix  it  with  the  paste  of  flour  and  milk; 
stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  let  it  cook  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  pour  it  then 
into  a  good-sized  bowl  and  leave  it  to  cool.  Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  ten  eggs  sepa- 
rately until  very  light  (the  whites  should  be  a  stiff  froth),  and  stir  them  into  the  bat- 
ter when  it  is  cool,  a  tablespoonful  at  a  time,  stirring  in  also  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Take  for  each  fritter  nearly  one  tablespoonful  of  batter,  drop  them  into  boiling  lard 
sufficient  to  cover  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Lift  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  and  serve 
hot  with  sweet  sauce. 

v   Fruit   Fritters. 

Put  into  a  basin  two  ounces  of  butter  to  warm,  and  mix  four  ounces  of  flour,  one 
tablespoonful  of  brandy,  a  pinch  of  salt,  sufficient  water  to  make  a  creamy  paste  and 
work  in  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  to  a  very  stiff  froth.  Cut  into  pieces  or  quar- 
ters any  kind  of  fruit,  dip  them  in  the  batter  and  fry  them  in  butter  to  a  light  golden 
brown;  take  them  out  when  done,  drain  off  all  the  fat,  place  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  over 
powdered  sugar,  and  serve.  The  fruit  should  be  quite  ripe;  if  not,  it  should  be  par- 
boiled in  syrup. 

Lemon    Fritters. 

Beat  up  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  together  with  one-fourth  pound  of  powdered  white 
sugar.  Mix  with  them  when  beaten  quite  light  one  saltspoonful  of  both  nutmeg  and 
cinnamon  and  one-fourth  pint  of  cream;  whip  in  lightly  the  whites  of  five  eggs 
whisked  to  a  froth,  and  then  add  about  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  flour,  working  it 
in  as  quickly  and  as  lightly  as  possible;  when  it  should  form  a  paste  only  just  light 
enough  to  roll  out.  Take  the  rolling  pin  and  roll  out  the  paste  to  a  thickness  of 
three-fourths  of  an  inch.  With  a  tumbler  or  a  cake-cutter,  cut  it  into  round  pieces 
and  fry  in  boiling  lard.  Lay  them  on  a  warm  paper  to  drain.  Serve  hot  with  a 
sauce  made  of  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  as  stiff  as  possible,  together  with  one 
glass  of  wine,  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon,  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and 
the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons. 


Orange    Fritters. 


Peel  the  oranges,  cut  them  in  halves,  pick  out  the  seeds,  and,  with  a  sharp  knife, 
scrape  off  all  the  white  pith;  put  them  in  a  basin  together  with  some  fine  sugar  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy,  and  leave  them  for  an  hour  or  two,  afterwards  drain- 


HOT  DESSERTS.  623 

ing  them  on  a  sieve.  Warm  and  beat  two  ounces  of  butter,  beat  also  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  mix  them  together  with  the  butter  in  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  flour,  and 
stir  in  gradually  with  a  wooden  spoon  sufficient  tepid  water  to  make  the  whole  into  a 
smooth  batter.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  snow,  and  mix  them  lightly 
with  the  batter  at  the  last  moment.  Put  a  large  piece  of  lard  or  clarified  fat  into  a  flat 
stewpan,  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  dip  the  pieces  of  orange  into  the 
batter,  coating  them  well,  and  fry  in  the  boiling  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Then  take 
them  out,  and  put  them  on  a  sheet  of  kitchen-paper  to  drain.  Spread  a  folded  napkin 
or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  over  a  hot  dish,  place  the  fritters  upon  it,  sprinkle  sugar 
over  them,  and  serve. 

Orange    Custard    Fritters. 

Put  one  pound  of  flour  into  a  basin  and  stir  it  gradually,  keeping  it  quite  smooth, 
one  quart  of  milk  and  five  well-beaten  eggs.  Turn  the  batter  into  a  saucepan,  and 
stir  it  over  a  moderate  fire  for  twenty  minutes  without  letting  it  boil;  then  move  it  to 
the  side  of  the  fire,  and  mix  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  one  of  finely- 
chopped  orange  peel,  one-half  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  five 
eggs.  Butter  a  baking-sheet,  and,  when  the  custard  is  well  mixed,  spread  it  over 
about  one  inch  in  thickness.  When  cold,  cut  it  into  equal-sized  pieces,  dip  them  in 
beaten  egg  and  then  in  finely-grated  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  in  butter  till  a  golden 
brown.  Drain  the  fritters,  dust  some  sugar  over,  put  them  on  a  folded  napkin,  or  an 
ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Peach    Fritters. 

Skin  some  ripe  but  firm  peaches,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  take  out  the  stones. 
Put  the  peaches  in  a  bowl  with  sugar,  and  toss  them  about  well,  taking  care  not  to 
break  them.  Put  one  pound  of  finely-sifted  flour  into  a  basin,  and  stir  in  one-half 
pint  of  water  gradually  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  till  very 
stiff,  mix  them  with  the  batter,  and  add  one  and  one-fourth  ounces  of  warmed  butter. 
Put  a  lump  of  lard  in  a  fryingpan,  make  it  warm,  but  not  too  hot;  dip  each  piece  of 
peach  separately  in  the  batter,  then  fry  them  in  the  lard.  When  lightly  browned, 
drain  the  peaches  on  a  cloth,  lay  them  on  a  baking-dish,  the  cut  side  downwards,  sift 
some  powdered  sugar  over,  and  glaze  them  under  the  salamander.  Arrange  the 
peaches  in  a  pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin,  placed  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Pear   Fritters. 

Take  as  many  good  cooking-pears  as  are  required  for  the  dish,  cut  them  into 
slices  lengthwise,  cover  with  sugar,  dip  them  in  batter,  plunge  them  into  boiling  oil, 
and  fry  a  delicate  brown.  Take  them  out,  drain,  dust  over  again  with  sugar,  place 
them  on  a  napkin  over  a  dish,  and  serve  with  sweet  or  wine  sauce. 


624  HOT  DESSERTS. 


Pineapple    Fritters. 


Pare  and  grate  a  ripe  pineapple,  saving  all  of  the  juice;  with  this  mix  two  cupfuls 
of  flour,  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  a  little  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  with 
enough  water  to  make  a  batter  thick  enough  to  hold  a  drop  from  the  end  of  the  spoon 
for  a  moment  or  two.  Have  ready  before  the  fire  a  frying-kettle  half  full  of  fat,  and 
when  it  commences  to  smoke,  quickly  stir  the  white  of  a  beaten  egg  into  the  batter, 
and' then  drop  the  batter  by  the  tablespoonful  into  the  hot  fat;  fry  the  fritters  until 
they  become  of  a  golden  brown  color.  Remove  them  from  the  fat  with  a  skimmer, 
and  lay  them  for  a  moment  to  brown  on  a  piece  of  paper  free  from  fat.  They  may 
then  be  arranged  neatly  on  a  fancy  dish,  and  dusted  over  with  powdered  sugar  and 
served. 

Portuguese    Fritters. 

Cut  six  slices  of  bread  half  an  inch  thick,  remove  the  crust  and  shape  the  crumb 
into  rounds  the  size  of  the  top  of  a  tumbler,  with  which  they  can  be  marked  out.  Lay 
them  in  a  dish  with  half  a  pint  of  milk,  not  allowing  the  milk  to  cover  them;  let  them 
soak  for  half  an  hour,  then  lift  them  and  drain  for  ten  minutes  on  the  side  of  the 
dish.  Dip  the  slices  of  bread  into  well-beaten  egg  and  fry  them  in  butter  to  a  rich 
brown.  Drain,  and  serve  with  crushed  loaf  sugar.  A  little  lemon  juice  may  be 
squeezed  over. 

Rhubarb   Fritters. 

Cut  some  sticks  of  young  rhubarb  into  pieces  about  an  inch  long,  and  boil  them 
in  water  for  ten  minutes;  then  drain  and  place  them  in  cold  water.  When  quite  cold, 
drain  the  pieces  of  rhubarb,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  strew  finely-crushed  sugar  over, 
moisten  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy,  and  let  them  marinade  for  a  couple  of 
hours.  Dip  the  pieces  of  rhubarb  in  some  frying-batter,  put  them  in  boiling  lard,  and 
fry  to  a  nice  color.  Drain  on  paper  for  a  minute  or  two  to  absorb  the  fat,  place  them 
neatly  on  a  dish  that  has  been  spread  over  with  a  folded  napkin  or  a  fancy  paper,  and 
serve. 

Rice   Fritters. 

Put  barely  one  cupful  of  rice  in  sufficient  warm  water  to  cover  it  well,  and  let  it 
steep  for  three  hours;  then  put  it,  with  the  water  in  which  it  was  steeped,  in  a  farina 
kettle  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  rice  is  dry,  then  pour  one  pint  of  milk  over  it,  and 
let  it  simmer  again  until  the  milk  has  all  soaked  into  the  rice;  then  stir  in  one  ounce 
of  butter,  take  it  from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool.  Beat  up  three  eggs  and  three  ounces 
of  sugar  together  very  lightly,  and  when  the  rice  has  cooled  pretty  well  stir  them  in 
with  grated  nutmeg,  salt  to  the  taste,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Cover  a  paste- 
board well  with  flour  and  make  up  the  mixture  with  well-floured  hands  into  flat 
cakes;  place  in  the  middle  of  each  cake  two  or  three  raisins  that  have  been 


HOT  DESSERTS.  625 

"plumped  "  by  soaking  in  boiling  water  for  two  or  three  minutes,  roll  the  edges  of 
the  cake  over  the  raisins  so  as  to  form  a  ball,  flour  the  balls  well,  and  fry  them  in 
boiling  lard.  Sprinkle  them  with  powdered  cinnamon  and  sugar,  and  serve  on  a 
napkin  folded  on  a  hot  dish  with  sweetened  cream. 

Souffles   Fritters. 

Pour  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  boil  it  up,  and  add  two  ounces 
of  butter;  when  it  is  dissolved,  put  in  four  ounces  of  flour  in  one  lump,  and  not  sprinkled, 
and  work  the  paste  with  a  spoon  until  it  is  smooth  and  cooked.  Remove  the  pan  from 
the  fire,  add  six  eggs,  beating  one  well  in  before  adding  another,  and  working  the  paste 
well  against  the  sides  of  the  saucepan.  Have  ready  a  deep  fryingpan  with  a  good  supply 
of  boiling  fat  in  it,  and  drop  in  the  mixture  in  lumps  about  the  size  of  an  egg.  As 
soon  as  they  swell  and  become  hollow  and  light,  remove,  drain  and  place  them  on  a 
dish  with  a  napkin  spread  over  it,  and  serve.  Only  a  few  of  them  should  be  cooked 
at  a  time,  as  they  require  much  room  in  which  to  swell. 


Strawberry    Fritters. 


Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil  with  the  grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon  and  a 
little  flour;  when  smooth  add  the  whites  of  three  well-whisked  eggs  and  a  little  white 
wine.  The  mixture  should  be  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream.  Pick  the  tops  off 
some  large,  ripe  strawberries,  and  put  the  fruit  in  the  prepared  batter.  Put  a  lump 
of  butter  into  a  deep  fryingpan,  and  when  it  is  boiling  drop  the  batter,  with  the  straw- 
berries, from  a  tablespoon  into  the  fat.  When  nicely  cooked  remove  the  fritters 
carefully,  drain  them  on  a  sieve  or  a  colander,  then  arrange  on  a  hot  dish;  sift  some 
powdered  sugar  over,  and  serve. 

Vanilla   Fritters. 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  one-half  pint  of  water,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  four 
ounces  of  butter,  and  boil  all  together  for  a  few  minutes.  Drop  in  five  ounces  of 
flour  all  at  once,  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  the  paste  is  firm  and  smooth. 
Remove  it  from  the  fire,  work  in  three  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  using  a  spoon,  and  beat 
the  paste  well  against  the  side  of  the  saucepan,  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  ex- 
tract with  the  last  egg.  The  more  the  paste  is  beaten  the  more  the  puffs  will  expand 
in  the  fryingpan.  Then  half-fill  the  saucepan  with  hot  lard.  Drop  in  pieces  of  the 
batter  about  the  size  of  eggs,  and  watch  them  swell  and  expand  in  the  hot  lard  and 
become  hollow  and  light.  Only  four  or  five  can  be  fried  at  a  time,  because  they 
require  considerable  room.  The  fritters,  being  slightly  sweet,  will  be  apt  to  fry  too 
dark  if  the  lard  be  made  too  hot,  and  they  may  remain  in  it  as  long  as  five  minutes 
before  they  begin  to  swell  and  run  over.  When  done  remove  them,  and  serve  hot. 


626  HOT  DESSERTS. 

Lemon  Patties. 

Put  the  grated  crumbs  of  one  stale  loaf  of  bread  in  a  basin,  and  pour  over  one- 
half  pint  of  boiling  milk.  When  cold  mix  in  with  the  grated  peel  of  two  lemons, 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  beaten  to  a  cream,  and  sweeten  to 
taste  with  powdered  sugar.  Butter  some  small  cups,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  and 
bake  for  twenty  minutes  or  so  in  a  moderate  oven.  Turn  the  patties  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  some  wine-sauce  over,  and  serve. 


Apricot  Omelet. 


Put  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  the  whites  of  four  into  a  basin ;  sprinkle  over  them 
a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  beat  well.  Pour  into  an  omelet  pan  with  a  lump  of  but- 
ter, and  as  soon  as  it  is  set,  turn  it  carefully  out.  Spread  over  as  much  apricot  jam 
or  marmalade  as  required,  fold  the  omelet  up,  and  place  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  over 
powdered  sugar,  glaze  in  an  oven  with  a  salamander,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Celestine   Omelet. 

Pound  six  macaroons,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  adding  three  tablespoonfuls  of  apple 
jelly  and  one  tablespoonful  of  whipped  cream,  and  mix  it  well  with  a  spatula.  Make 
a  sweet  omelet  with  twelve  eggs,  fold  over  the  side  opposite  the  pan,  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  the  center,  fold  the  other  side  over  and  turn  the  omelet  out  onto  a  hot  dish. 
Sprinkle  the  top  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  glaze  the  omelet,  and 
decorate  it  with  some  ladyfingers  cut  into  halves,  also  a  teacupful  of  whipped  cream. 


Jelly    Omelet. 


Put  one  teaspoonful  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan  and  place  it  over  the  fire.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs  together  with  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  whisk  the  whites 
also  to  a  stiff  froth.  When  the  butter  is  melted,  mix  the  whites  and  yolks  gently  to- 
gether, and  put  them  into  the  pan;  as  fast  as  the  omelet  cooks,  lift  the  cooked  part 
with  a  fork  and  throw  it  on  one  side  of  the  pan,  letting  the  uncooked  part  down  upon 
the  hot  pan.  When  the  omelet  is  cooked  to  the  desired  degree,  place  one  table- 
spoonful  of  jelly  in  the  middle,  fold  the  omelet  together  and  turn  it  out  on  a  hot 
dish;  sprinkle  over  powdered  sugar,  and  serve. 

Kirsch    Omelets. 

Make  a  sweet  omelet  with  a  dozen  eggs;  when  it  is  done  and  glazed  throw 
round  a  wineglassful  of  kirsch,  and  set  the  omelet  on  fire.  Serve  it  while  burning. 


HOT  DESSERTS.  627 

Lemon  Omelets. 

Mix  one  dessertspoonful  of  corn  starch  with  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  one- 
half  teacupful  of  milk  or  cream;  when  quite  smooth,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  four  well- 
beaten  eggs  and  one-half  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth  and  mix  them  with  the  above  preparation.  Butter  four  pudding  plates, 
pour  the  mixture  on  them,  dividing  it  equally  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  ten  minutes 
or  until  well  set.  When  cooked,  turn  the  omelets  onto  a  hot  dish,  spread  about  one 
teaspoonful  of  lemon-honey  over  half  of  each,  fold  them  over,  sprinkle  a  little 
powdered  sugar  on  the  top,  and  serve  while  hot. 

Rum   Omelet. 

Put  half  a  dozen  eggs  and  a  small  quantity  of  milk  into  a  basin,  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-powdered  loaf  sugar  and  beat  well,  but  do  not  make  the  omelet  too 
light.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  fryingpan  with  a  small  lump  of  butter  and  fry  until 
done,  rolling  the  omelet  into  shape  as  quickly  as  it  begins  to  get  stiff.  Turn  it  out 
onto  a  dish,  dredge  over  a  little  sugar,  pour  round  one  teacupful  of  rum,  ignite  it, 
and  serve  at  once. 

'  Omelet   Souffle. 

An  omelet  souffle  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  of  hot  sweets.  It  is  not  difficult 
to  make  when  its  principles  are  understood,  and  yet  it  is  seldom  well  made  by  inex- 
perienced cooks.  The  true  omelet  souffle^  contains  only  eggs,  sugar  and  the  chosen 
flavoring,  and  a  tin-lined  copper  souffle-pan  or  a  thick  enameled  metal  dish,  which 
will  quickly  heat  and  remain  hot  for  some  time  after  being  taken  from  the  oven,  is 
required  for  cooking  it.  Spread  the  pan  with  cold  butter  and  see  that  the  oven  is 
quite  hot  before  the  omelet  is  made.  Put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  six  heaped  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  loaf  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  any  flavoring  essence  or 
cordial  into  a  quart  bowl  and  beat  them  to  a  stiff  cream;  then  beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  quickly  and  lightly  add  the  yolks  and  sugar.  This  part  of 
the  operation  requires  a  quick,  deft  hand.  The  yolks  should  be  poured  on  the  center 
of  the  whites,  then  cut  down  through,  rather  beaten  or  stirred,  by  holding  the  spoon 
in  the  right  hand  with  the  bowl  outward  and  cutting  down  into  the  whites  with  its 
edge  an  inward  and  upward  turn  will  bring  the  spoon  out  again  with  its  edge  on  top 
of  the  whites.  Repeat  this  cutting-down  and  turning  motion  rapidly  and  lightly  until 
the  omelet  is  mixed,  then  as  rapidly  and  lightly  put  the  omelet  into  the  pan  in  which 
it  is  to  be  baked,  dust  it  over  with  powdered  sugar,  place  it  in  the  oven  and  bake 
until  it  is  delicately  browned  (it  will  take  about  ten  minutes  if  the  oven  is  moderately 
hot).  Do  not  begin  to  make  the  souffle  until  about  twenty  minutes  before  it  is 
needed.  It  must  not  be  allowed  to  stand  after  it  is  done,  but  must  be  sent  to  the 


628  HOT  DESSERTS. 

table  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  oven,  slipping  the  souffle-pan    on  a  hot  dish  covered 
with  a  folded  napkin. 

Orange   Meringue. 

Thoroughly  wash  and  pick  over  one-half  pound  of  the  best  rice,  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  plenty  of  water  and  place  it  over  the  fire.  When  the  water  boils  drain 
it  off  the  rice  and  pour  in  its  place  a  quart  of  milk,  add  four  ounces  of  crushed  loaf 
sugar  and  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  one  lemon  and  stew  the  rice  slowly  over  a  mod- 
erate fire  until  almost  dry.  Peel  the  rind  off  six  oranges  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  some  thick  syrup  made  with  loaf  sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  water,  cover  and 
steep  for  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  fire.  Trim  off  all  the  white  pith  of  the  oranges 
and  remove  their  seeds  by  coring  them  like  apples.  When  the  rice  has  cooled,  mix 
with  it  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  put  a  layer  of  the  rice  on  a  flat  dish,  pile  the 
remainder  up  to  form  a  wall,  place  the  oranges  in  the  center  and  strain  the  syrup 
over.  Whisk  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  snow  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  spread  it  over  the  oranges,  dust  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  over  the 
whole  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  on  the  same  dish. 


Orange    Puffs. 


Grate  the  rind  of  three  oranges  and  strain  their  juice,  put  the  rinds  into  a  mortar 
with  one  pound  of  sugar  and  about  three  ounces  of  butter  and  pound  them  into  a 
smooth  paste,  then  mix  in  the  strained  juice.  Roll  the  paste  out  on  a  marble  slab 
and  cut  into  rounds  with  a  tin  cutter.  Lay  them  a  short  distance  from  each  other  on 
baking  sheets  over  which  has  been  spread  a  sheet  of  white  paper  and  bake  in  a  rather 
slow  oven.  When  done  pile  the  puffs  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded 
napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper,  dust  them  over,  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

-x\    Pancakes. 

Mix  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour  with  a  little  salt.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and 
the  whites  of  two,  a44-a-few~dfop6-of—  o^raftge^flowcr  wator,  and  then  stir  this  in  with 
the  flour.  Butter  a  small  omelet  pan,  and  when  hot,  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  the 
batter,  bake  until  brown,  then  turn  and  brown  the  other  side.  Roll  up  the  pancake, 
put  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  keep  near  the  fire  till  all  are  made.  Arrange  them  on  an 
ornamental  dish-paper  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  sugar  over,  and  serve. 

Apple    Pancakes. 

Take  ordinary  pancake  batter  in  which  a  little  yeast  has  been  mixed,  and  allow 
it  to  rise.  Break  four  eggs  into  a  large  bowl,  beat  well  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
yeast  and  salt  and  a  wineglassful  of  brandy,  with  a  little  powdered  cinnamon  or  grated 
nutmeg.  In  a  smaller  basin,  mix  some  flour  and  milk  in  a  way  as  to  form  the  con- 


HOT  DESSERTS.  629 

sistency  ot  batter,  and  when  it  is  worked  smooth,  stir  into  the  large  bowl  with  the 
other  ingredients,  Cover  with  a  cloth  and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  work.  Prepare  a 
few  apples  by  peeling,  coring  and  mincing.  With  each  quantity  taken  for  a  pancake, 
stir  in  a  little  of  the  minced  apple.  If  too  much  of  the  apple  is  added  the  pancakes 
are  liable  to  break,  unless  made  extra  thick.  They  should  be  sent  hot  to  the  table, 
accompanied  by  pounded  sugar  and  oranges  or  lemons,  cut  in  halves  for  squeezing 
over  them. 


Pancakes,   Casino   Style. 


Rub  fifteen  lumps  of  sugar  on  two  whole  orange  peels;  also  rub  five  pieces  of 
sugar  on  two  vanilla  sticks;  take  one  wineglass  of  cura^oa  and  a  pony  of  brandy, 
together  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  and  mix  the  whole  together  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  and  the  mass  forms  a  paste.  After  having  your  pancakes  prepared  as 
shown  for  plain  pancake,  take  a  chafing-dish  and  use  for  each  pancake  one  table- 
spoonful  of  the  above  preparation.  Place  the  preparation  in  the  chafing-dish  and 
when  it  is  hot,  put  one  pancake  into  it,  and  leave  it  there  for  about  a  minute,  and  turn 
your  pancake  over  for  the  same  operation  as  before;  keep  on  doing  the  same  thing 
for  every  pancake.  It  is  proper  to  do  this  at  the  table  as  soon  as  the  pancake  is  done, 
and  serve  it  to  your  guest. 

Currant   Pancakes. 

Stir  in  one-fourth  pound  of  washed  and  dried  grocer  s  currants  to  every  pint  of 
any  plain  pancake  batter.  Serve  with  hot  butter,  lemons  and  sugar. 


Gooseberry    Pancakes. 


Put  a  lump  of  butter  into  a  fryingpan;  when  it  is  melted,  put  in  one  quart  of 
gooseberries  previously  snipped,  and  fry  gently  until  tender;  then  take  them  out  and 
mash  them  in  a  saucepan.  Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  whip  three  whites  to  a 
stiff  froth;  mix  them  with  a  teacupful  of  cream  and  finely-grated  stale  breadcrumbs, 
and  a  breakfast  cupful  of  flour,  pour  them  in  the  saucepan  with  the  gooseberries,  add 
sugar  to  taste,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thick.  Melt  some  butter  in  a  fryingpan, 
and  fry  the  preparation  like  pancakes.  Put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  sift  powdered  sugar 
over,  and  serve. 

New  England   Pancakes 

Stir  slowly  into  one  pint  of  cream  five  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  flour.  Beat  up 
the  yolks  of  seven  new-laid  eggs  and  the  whites  of  four,  season  these  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  them  into  the  flour,  working  all  together  thoroughly.  Heat 
very  hot  in  a  fryingpan  one  tablespoonful  of  fresh  butter;  pour  in  a  thin  layer  of  the 
batter,  and  turn  when  set.  Serve  these  piled  one  on  another,  with  sugar  and  powdered 
cinnamon  over  each. 


630  HOT  DESSERTS. 

Rice    Pancakes. 

Wash  one-half  pound  of  rice,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  some  water,  and  boil  it 
to  a  jelly,  adding  more  water  when  required.  When  cooked,  leave  it  until  cold;  then 
mix  with  it  one  pint  of  cream,  eight  or  nine  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  grated  nutmeg.  Warm  one-half  pound  of  butter,  then  stir  it  in  with  the  other 
ingredients,  adding  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a  thick  batter.  Fry  the  pancakes  as 
usual,  using  as  little  butter  as  possible.  Serve  them  either  plain,  or  with  jam  or 
preserves. 


Pancakes  with  Apricot  Jam. 


Put  one-half  pound  of  flour  into  a  basin  with  a  tablespoonful  of  fine  sugar  and  a 
little  salt,  break  in  five  eggs,  and  mix  all  well  together.  Add  one-fourth  pound  of 
melted  butter,  and  one  and  one-fourth  pints  of  milk.  Cut  a  piece  of  bread  round 
one-fourth  inch  thick  and  four  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  sift  sugar  over,  and 
glaze  in  the  oven.  Three  fryingpans  should  be  used  when  a  large  number  of  cakes 
are  made,  so  that  they  may  be  done  more  quickly.  Stand  the  pans  on  the  fire  with  a 
small  piece  of  butter  in  each,  and,  when  it  is  melted,  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  batter 
in  each.  When  one  side  of  the  pancake  is  browned,  turn  it  on  the  glazed  piece  of 
bread,  coat  the  top  with  apricot  jam,  put  another  one  over  this,  and  so  on,  till  all  are 
done.  Do  not  coat  the  top  one  with  jam,  but  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  glaze  it 
under  a  salamander,  and  serve. 

Pancakes  with  Macaroons. 

Put  two  ounces  of  bitter  macaroons  and  one  ounce  of  dried  orange  flowers  into  a 
mortar,  and  pound  them  very  fine.  Turn  this  into  a  large  bowl,  add  one-fourth 
pound  of  finely-powdered  white  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  and 
mix  all  well  together;  then  stir  into  them  the  beaten  yolks  of  ten  eggs;  add  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  quart  of  cream.  Make  a  fryingpan  hot  over  the  fire,  put  a 
lump  of  butter  into  it,  and  when  that  is  quite  hot  fry  as  much  of  the  batter  as  will 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan;  when  slightly  browned  on  one  side,  turn  it  carefully  and 
brown  the  other  side.  Lay  it  on  a  hot  tin  plate,  spread  over  a  thin  layer  of  apricot 
marmalade,  and  on  that  sprinkle  crushed  macaroons.  Roll  the  pancake  up  rather 
tight  and  proceed  with  the  next  one,  which  should,  with  some  more  butter,  have  been 
put  in  the  fryingpan  as  soon  as  the  first  one  was  taken  out.  When  all  the  pancakes 
are  done,  cut  them  about  three  inches  long,  glaze  them,  and  serve  hot;  or  they  may 
be  served  quite  plain. 

Baked  Pears. 

Peel,  cut  in  halves,  and  core  twelve  large  pears,  put  them  into  a  pan  with  two 
dozen  cloves,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  nearly  enough  water  to  cover  them.  Bake 


HOT  DESSERTS.  631 

them  in  a  moderate  oven  till  tender,  keeping  the  pan  covered;  then  place  them  over 
a  slow  fire  and  let  them  stew  gently.  Grate  a  little  lemon  peel  over  them  and  add 
more  sugar  if  required. 

Adelaide   Pudding. 

Put  the  whites  of  three  and  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  into  a  bowl  and  beat 
thoroughly;  then  place  a  pint  of  water  and  nine  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  saucepan  and 
boil;  when  the  scum  rises,  pour  it  over  the  eggs,  and  add  the  grated  rind  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  whip  the  whole  well  together  for  about  twenty  minutes. 
Dredge  in  slowly  about  eight  ounces  of  flour,  and  when  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  it 
into  a  well-buttered  tin  or  mould,  set  it  in  a  slack  oven,  and  bake  it  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  pour  around  a  little  wine  sauce,  and  serve. 

Albemarle    Pudding. 

Partially  warm  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  beat  it  until  it  becomes  frothy,  then 
mix  in  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Whip  separately  the 
whites  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  mix  all  together,  sifting  in,  a  little  at  a  time, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  and  continue  beating  the  whole  until  it  is  quite 
smooth.  Butter  a  pudding-basin  and  ornament  it  with  raisins,  cover  the  top  with  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  stand  it  in  a  saucepan,  with  boiling  water  to  about  three 
parts  its  height,  and  steam  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  when  thoroughly  cooked,  turn  the 
pudding  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Almond   Pudding. 

Put  some  butter  in  a  dish  to  warm.  Then  beat  the  yolks  of  a  number  of  eggs 
with  the  whites  in  a  basin,  and  add  gradually  a  little  sifted  crushed  loaf-sugar,  then 
the  butter  and  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  pounded,  together  with 
some  sifted  breadcrumbs.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  saucepan  or  mould, 
in  layers  alternately  with  apricot  jam ;  tie  the  mould  over  with  a  wet  cloth,  and  boil 
the  pudding  in  a  saucepan  of  water  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish, 
pour  sweet  sauce  around,  and  serve. 

Almond  and   Rice   Pudding, 

Put  some  milk  and  a  little  ground  rice  into  a  saucepan  to  boil;  then  pour  into  a 
basin,  and  when  it  is  quite  cold,  mix  in  some  sugar  and  warmed  butter,  six  yolks  and 
nine  whites  of  eggs,  and  a  few  blanched  and  shred  sweet  almonds.  Put  into  a  but- 
tered dish,  and  bake  until  well  done.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  cover  it  with  pieces  of 
almond  stuck  into  it,  and  serve. 


632  HOT  DESSERTS. 

Apple  and  Almond   Pudding. 

Peel  and  core  some  cooking  apples,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water, 
and  cook  to  a  pulp.  Put  this  at  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  basin  or  mould,  and  let  it 
cool.  Put  five  ounces  of  blanched  almonds  into  a  mortar  with  an  equal  weight  of 
crushed  loaf-sugar,  pounding  well  and  mixing  in  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs,  the  strained 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  flour  to  thicken  it.  When  these  are  well 
mixed,  add  the  whites  of  the  seven  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  turn  the  whole  into  the 
basin  or  mould  over  the  apples,  place  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  about  half  an 
hour,  when  the  pudding  should  be  of  a  light  brown.  Take  out  when  done  and  turn  it 
onto  a  dish,  serving  with  sweet  sauce. 

Apple   Custard   Pudding. 

Stew  some  good  large  cooking-apples  (pared,  cored  and  minced)  in  a  little 
water ;  when  done,  rub  through  a  coarse  sieve  and  sweeten.  Make  a  good  custard  of 
milk,  eggs  and  powdered  sugar,  with  a  little  lemon  flavoring.  Pour  the  apples  into  a 
pudding-dish  and  the  custard  mixture  on  top  of  the  apples,  and  put  in  a  slow  oven  to 
bake  about  half  an  hour  until  done. 

Apricot  Pudding. 

Take  the  desired  quantity  of  apricots,  divide  them  and  remove  the  stones.  Place 
the  halves  in  a  stewpan  over  a  stove  with  a  little  sugar.  Pour  over  a  little  water 
and  shake  well,  and  when  about  half-cooked,  pour  them  into  a  pudding-basin  which 
has  been  previously  buttered  and  lined  with  a  good  suet  paste.  Cover  the  top  with 
some  of  the  paste,  tie  over  with  a  pudding-cloth,  plunge  into  boiling  water,  and  boil 
for  two  hours.  Remove  from  the  saucepan,  untie  the  cloth,  turn  out  on  a  dish,  and 
serve. 

Bird's-Nest    Pudding. 

Peel  and  core  eight  apples,  but  do  not  break  them.  Arrange  them  in  a  good- 
sized  pudding-dish,  and  fill  the  places  where  the  cores  were  with  sugar.  Then,  with 
one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk,  three  ounces  of  flour,  and  four  or  five  eggs,  make  a 
batter;  pour  this  over  the  apples,  and  bake  until  the  fruit  is  done.  For  the  sauce, 
beat  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  until  very  light,  add  one-half  pound  of  powdered 
white  sugar,  and  one-fourth  of  a  pint  of  cream.  Stand  the  bowl  containing  the  mix- 
ture in  a  basin  of  hot  water,  and  stir  until  all  is  creamy.  Two  minutes  should  be 
sufficient.  Serve  in  a  sauceboat. 

Biscuit  Pudding. 

Place  five  or  six  large  broken  biscuits  in  a  saucepan  with  a  breakfast  cupful  of 
milk,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  and  boil  well.  Working  this  mixture  into  a 


HOT  DESSERTS.  633 

smooth  paste,  add  three  ounces  of  warmed  butter,  two  ounces  of  finely-crushed 
loaf-sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  together  with  four  well-beaten  eggs;  pour 
this  mixture  into  a  buttered  dish  or  basin,  tie  over  with  a  cloth,  and  place  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  water,  and  boil  it  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done,  turn  out  onto  a  dish,  pour 
over  a  little  wine  sauce,  and  serve. 

Bombay  Pudding. 

Beat  three  whole  eggs  with  one  pint  of  milk,  sweeten  to  taste  with  loaf-sugar, 
pour  them  into  a  lined  saucepan,  and  stir  over  a  slow  fire  until  thickened,  but  not 
boiling.  Move  the  saucepan  to  the  edge  of  the  fire,  and  stir  in  one  wineglassful  of 
brandy,  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  then  grate  some  cocoanut 
and  add  it  to  the  mixture.  Butter  a  shallow  dish,  line  it  with  a  good  puff-paste,  and 
spread  the  cocoanut  mixture  over  it.  Place  the  pudding  in  a  brisk  oven,  and  bake 
until  lightly  brown.  Serve  the  pudding  either  hot  or  cold. 

Boston    Pudding. 

Peel  and  remove  the  cores  from  two  pounds  of  cooking-apples  and  cut  them 
into  small  pieces;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon,  two 
or  three  cloves,  and  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  a  large  lemon;  moisten  with  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  and  stew  gently  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  When  cooked  sweeten 
the  apples  to  taste  with  moist  sugar,  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  the  whites  of  one  with  three  ounces  of  warmed  butter,  a 
small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg  and  grated  lemon-peel  and  strained  juice  of  half  a 
lemon;  beat  the  mixture  thoroughly.  Butter  and  line  the  edges  of  a  pie-dish  with 
puff-paste,  pour  in  the  mixture  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked,  serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Brandy    Pudding  with   Brandy  Sauce. 

Dissolve  six  ounces  of  crushed  loaf-sugar  in  one-half  pint  of  boiling  milk;  when 
cool,  beat  it  with  half  a  dozen  eggs.  Place  at  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  dish  a 
thick  layer  of  stoned  and  chopped  raisins  and  some  chopped  candied  orange-peel; 
over  these  place  some  thin  slices  of  stale  bread  that  have  been  saturated  in  brandy, 
and  then  pour  in  the  beaten  eggs  and  milk.  Cover  the  mouth  of  the  basin  with  a 
piece  of  buttered  paper,  tie  it  down  tightly,  and  let  the  basin  stand  for  a  few  minutes; 
then  place  it  in  a  saucepan  partly  filled  with  water,  and  steam  for  nearly  two  hours. 
Make  a  sweet  sauce,  and  flavor  it  with  brandy  and  vanilla.  Turn  the  pudding  out 
onto  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

Baked  Bread   Pudding. 

Place  in  a  sauce  a  half  pint  of  sweet  cream,  a  little  powdered  sugar  and  lemon 
peel,  place  on  stove  and  stir  with  a  spatula  for  three  minutes  or  so,  then  remove  from 


634  HOT  DESSERTS. 

the  fire.  Pare  off  the  crust  from  some  stale  bread,  and  cut  it  into  some  small 
dice-shaped  pieces,  mixing  them  lightly  into  the  above  mixture,  and  place  on  the  lid 
of  the  pan.  Let  the  bread  soak  for  ten  minutes.  Chop  up  very  fine  an  ounce  or  so 
of  candied  citron,  mixing  with  it  four  ounces  of  dried  currants,  some  melted  butter, 
and  melted  and  strained  beef-marrow,  stirring  in  a  little  salt.  Pour  this  prepara- 
tion in  with  the  soaked  bread  and  mix  it  together  gently  for  about  ten  minutes, 
breaking  into  it  three  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  add  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  and  half 
a  gill  of  cognac.  Butter  and  sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs  a  pudding-mould,  and  pour 
into  it  this  preparation,  lay  on  a  baking-plate,  and  put  in  a  slow  oven  to  bake 
for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Remove  and  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  serve  with  Sabayon 
sauce  with  Madeira. 

Bread   Pudding    with    Cream   Sauce. 

Pare  off  the  crust  of  half  a  loaf  of  stale  wheaten  bread  and  cut  it  into  slices  a  third 
of  an  inch  thick,  butter  thoroughly  with  melted  butter  and  line  the  dish  with  them. 
Put  in  a  basin  six  ounces  of  currants,  two  eggs  and  a  pint  of  cold  milk,  some  pow- 
dered sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and  its  juice.  Mix  with  a  spatula  for  ten 
minutes  and  pour  into  a  dish,  which  place  in  a  moderate  oven  to  cook  for  half  an 
hour;  then  remove  into  another  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Cabinet   Pudding. 

Butter  thickly  the  inside  of  a  mould  and  arrange  a  neat  design  at  the  bottom 
with  fancy-shaped  pieces  of  citron  peel  and  raisins;  over  these  place  a  layer  of  sponge 
cake  cut  into  strips  of  any  length  and  about  one-half  inch  thick;  over  the  layer  of  the 
cake  put  some  citron,  some  candied  fruit  cut  into  small  square  pieces  and  some  rai- 
sins; then  add  another  layer  of  cake,  some  more  fruit,  and  so  on  until  the  mould  is 
full.  Put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  into  a  basin  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
beat  them  well.  Pour  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  and  place  it  on  the  fire  till  just 
on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  stir  it  in  gradually  to  the  beaten  egg.  Pour  the  custard 
over  the  mixture  in  the  mould.  Place  the  mould  in  a  pan  with  cold  water  to  about 
one-third  its  height,  stand  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling  and  then  put  the  pan  and 
mould  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake.  In  about  an  hour's  time  the  pudding  will  be 
cooked.  Turn  it  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sauceboatful  of 
sweet  sauce. 

Baked   California   Pudding. 

Beat  well  three  eggs  with  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk,  sweeten  to  taste  with 
sugar  and  flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  almonds,  add  three-quarters  of  a  wine- 
glassful  of  pale  brandy;  stir  the  preparation  over  the  fire  until  it  has  become  thick- 
ened, then  move  it  off;  put  some  small  pieces  of  stale  sponge-cake  into  a  pie  dish 
with  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  thinly-shredded  citron  peel,  pour  the  custard  over  it  and 


HOT   DESSERTS.  635 

leave  it  for  half  an  hour.  Then  slightly  warm  six  ounces  of  butter  and  beat  it  with 
an  equal  amount  of  fine  sugar  until  frothy.  Spread  this  mixture  over  the  pudding 
and  bake  for  an  hour,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Caramel   Pudding. 

Cream  together  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  warmed  butter  and  sugar.  Add  ten 
eggs  (yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately),  and  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  preserved 
damsons,  removing  the  stones.  Beat  all  together  very  lightly  and  season  with  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  flavoring  extract,  vanilla  or  other  flavoring.  Prepare  an  open  tart-case 
of  pattern  paste,  fill  with  the  ice-caramel  preparation,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Baked   Cheese   Pudding. 

Beat  thoroughly  four  or  five  eggs  and  mix  with  them  one  ounce  of  butter  melted 
to  the  substance  of  oil  and  one  gill  of  cream,  then  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sifted 
breadcrumbs  and  one  pound  of  grated  cheese.  Pour  this  mixture  into  a  dish  lined 
with  puff  paste,  and  bake. 

Cherry   Pudding. 

Place  one-half  pound  of  warm  butter  in  a  basin  and  work  it  thoroughly  with  a 
spoon,  adding  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  then  one-half  pound  of 
powdered  sugar.  When  it  begins  to  froth,  put  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bread- 
crumbs, a  small  quantity  of  cinnamon  and  finally  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  well- 
whisked.  Then  take  a  large  and  fairly  thick  timbale-mould,  butter  it  well,  and  on 
the  bottom,  pour  a  layer  of  the  mixture.  Then  put  in  a  layer  of  preserved  and  well- 
drained  cherries,  not  allowing  them  to  lie  against  the  sides  of  the  mould  and  continue, 
in  this  way  until  full.  Cover  the  mould  with  a  baking-sheet  upon  which  are  live  em- 
bers, place  in  the  oven  and  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  turn  it  out  onto  a 
dish,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pudding  with  cherry  sauce,  and  serve. 

Chestnut    Pudding. 

Boil  and  peel  about  fifty  or  sixty  fine  chestnuts,  and  when  well-cooked,  pound  or 
crush  them  fine;  add  the  minced  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  dessertspoonful  of  orange  flower  or  rose  water,  a  breakfast  cupful 
each  of  breadcrumbs  and  sweet  biscuit  in  crumbs,  and  a  teacupful  of  rich  cream;  then 
mix  in  with  half  a  dozen  eggs  well-beaten  up,  yolks  and  whites  together.  Put  the 
whole  into  a  buttered  mould,  sprinkle  it  with  sugar  and  set  it  for  a  moment  under  a 
glowing  salamander. 

Christmas    Pudding. 

Separate  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  from  the  whites.  Take  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  rich 
mincemeat,  put  into  it  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  beat  them  well  with  it  for  four  or  five 


636  HOT   DESSERTS. 

minutes;  whip  the  whites  to  a  froth,  and  have  ready  six  ounces  of  flour.  Add  to  the 
pudding  first  a  little  flour  and  then  a  little  beaten  white  of  egg,  and  so  on  alternately 
until  both  flour  and  eggs  are  used  up,  beating  each  addition  well  in.  Butter  the  in- 
side of  a  good-sized  mould  and  put  the  pudding  into  it,  giving  it  room  to  swell; 
cover  firmly,  plunge  it  into  boiling  water,  and  keep  boiling  rapidly  for  five  hours. 


Clifton  Pudding. 


Put  four  ounces  of  ground  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of 
cream,  and  boil  gently  until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken,  stirring  occasionally. 
Place  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  in  a  bowl,  whisk  them  well  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
and  add  gradually  four  ounces  of  finely-crushed  loaf  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
brandy,  three  ounces  of  blanched  and  pounded  sweet  almonds,  and  the  grated  rind  of 
half  a  lemon.  Remove  the  ground  rice  mixture  from  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  cool, 
stir  in  the  other  mixture;  pour  the  whole  into  a  well-buttered  pie-dish,  place  a  few 
slices  of  candied  peel  on  the  top,  stand  the  pudding  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for 
nearly  or  quite  twenty-five  minutes;  then  take  it  out  and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

Cottage  Pudding. 

Put  two  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  mixed  butter  and  lard  into  a  basin,  and 
warm  and  beat  to  a  cream  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  sifted,  crushed  loaf-sugar. 
Stir  in  one  well-beaten  egg  and  one  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  dissolved  in 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk,  and  add  to  it  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Put  one  pint  of 
flour  into  a  basin,  and  work  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar;  add  to  it 
the  other  mixture,  stir  well,  place  the  whole  in  a  buttered  basin  or  mould,  and  bake  in 
a  brisk  oven  for  forty-five  minutes.  Then  turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  dish,  pour 
round  or  over  a  little  sweet  or  wine  sauce,  and  serve. 

Cream   Pudding. 

Mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  with  the  rind  of  a  grated  lemon  and 
six  eggs,  beaten  to  a  froth.  Take  one  pint  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  mix  them  together.  When  thoroughly  mixed  add  the  sugar 
and  eggs;  just  before  serving  add  one  pint  of  thick  cream.  Pour  this  into  small  cups 
or  pudding  dishes,  and  bake  until  done. 

Cocoa  Pudding. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  stale  bread  and  one  pint  of  milk  in  a  saucepan,  stirring  it 
while  it  boils,  until  it  becomes  a  thick  paste;  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  one 
ounce  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  prepared  cocoa,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of 
vanilla.  Remove  the  pudding  from  the  fire,  beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  whip  the 


HOT   DESSERTS.  637 

whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  froth,  then  mix  all  into  the  other  ingredients.      Put   it  in  a 
buttered  pie-dish  and  bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Cornstarch    Pudding. 

Pour  two  quarts  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  adding  six  ounces  of  sugar,  boil,  and 
stir  in  seven  or  eight  ounces  of  cornstarch,  adding  only  a  small  quantity  at  a  time. 
Cook  gradually  over  the  fire  for  about  half  an  hour,  then  put  in  four  ounces  of  butter 
and  the  whole  of  five  eggs,  or  the  yolks  of  eight.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  dish  or 
mould,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  done.  Turn  it  out,  pour  sweet  sauce  of 
some  kind  over,  and  serve. 

Custard    Pudding. 

Put  into  a  thin  pudding-mould  one  tablespoonful  of  caster-sugar,  and  move  it 
about  on  the  stove  until  it  begins  to  brown.  When  the  mould  is  completely  lined 
with  the  sugar,  pour  in  one  pint  of  milk  boiled  with  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and  four 
eggs  beaten  in  with  it,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Put  the  mould  in  a  saucepan  with  hot 
water  to  half  its  height,  let  the  water  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour,  turn  the  pud- 
ding into  a  mould,  and  serve  hot. 

Custard   Cup    Pudding. 

Beat  up  one  egg  and  pour  it  into  a  well-buttered  cup,  and  fill  up  with  milk.  Put 
the  cup  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  with  enough  boiling  water  to  reach  half-way, 
and  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Have  in  readiness  a  hot  plate  onto  which  to 
turn  the  custard,  and  serve  with  sugar.  Make  as  many  of  those  as  are  needed. 


Egg   Snow    Pudding. 


Put  into  a  saucepan  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  with  one  teacupful  of 
water,  and  boil  until  a  dark  brown;  pour  it  into  a  small  warmed  basin,  and  turn  it 
about  until  well  coated.  Whisk  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  half  a  dozen  eggs.  Pour 
this  into  the  basin,  which  it  should  only  half  fill,  tie  a  sheet  of  white  paper  over,  place 
it  in  a  large  flat  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  half  its  height,  put  the  lid  on  the  pan, 
and  keep  it  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  so  the  water  will  simmer  without  boiling  for  forty- 
five  minutes.  Turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 


Flame   Pudding. 


Warm  four  ounces  of  butter  and  beat  it  with  four  ounces  of  sugar  to  a  creamy 
froth.  Separate  the  yolks  and  whites  of  ten  eggs;  beat  the  yolks  and  add  them  to 
the  beaten  butter,  then  mix  in  smoothly  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  blanched  and 
pounded  almonds  and  one-fourth  pound  of  sifted  flour.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs 


638  HOT  DESSERTS. 

to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  in  lightly  with  the  above  mixture,  and  make  the  whole  rather 
thick  with  grated  stale  sponge-cakes.  Butter  thickly  a  pudding  dish,  turn  the  mix- 
ture into  it,  tie  a  stout  pudding-cloth  over  the  top,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  for  an  hour.  When  cooked  turn  the  pudding  onto  a  hot  dish,  fix  a 
small  glass  in  the  center  of  it,  which  fill  with  brandy,  allowing  some  to  run  over  the 
sides,  set  light  to  it,  and  serve  without  any  delay. 

Fruit   Pudding. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  half  a  pint  of  juice  from  any  kind  of  canned  fruit  into 
a  saucepan  with  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  place  it  over  the 
fire  until  boiling;  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  stir  in  quickly  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  four  eggs.  Butter  a  pie-dish  and  put  in  one  heaped  breakfast  cupful  of  the  canned 
fruit.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  lightly  in  with  the 
custard  and  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  Bake  in  a  brisk  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Fruit   Pudding  with   Rum   Sauce. 

Take  a  quart  pudding-mould  four  inches  high,  butter  and  line  it  with  half  a 
pound  of  paste.  Put  four  ounces  of  stoned  cherries  into  a  dish  with  three  ounces 
each  of  stoned  plums  and  apricots,  sift  over  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
mix  well  and  turn  it  into  the  mould.  Pour  half  a  pint  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  add 
six  ounces  of  granulated  sugar,  place  it  on  the  stove  and  boil  it  for  five  minutes; 
then  fill  up  the  mould  with  this  syrup  and  bake  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  thirty  min- 
utes. Turn  it  out,  pour  over  rum  sauce,  and  serve. 

German    Pudding. 

Cut  off  about  one  pound  of  slices  of  bread  from  a  household  loaf,  put  them  in  a 
flat  dish,  pour  in  milk  enough  to  cover  and  let  soak  thoroughly;  then  squeeze  the 
bread  dry  and  beat  it  up  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Add  five  ounces  of  warmed  butter 
beaten  to  a  cream  with  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon  and  stir 
in  finally  the  whites  of  the  five  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Put  a  rather  thick  layer 
of  this  mixture  at  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  mould  and  a  layer  of  orange  marmalade 
on  the  top  of  it;  continue  in  this  way  until  the  mould  is  full,  finishing  up  with  a  layer 
of  the  bread-mixture.  Cover  the  mould,  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  of 
water,  and  boil  for  an  hour.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  mask  the  top  with  more  of  the 
orange  marmalade  mixed  with  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  serve  with  a  small 
quantity  of  sweet  sauce  poured  round. 

Ginger   Pudding. 

Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  trim  off  all  the  skin  and  chop  fine,  then 
put  it  into  a  basin  and  mix  in  half  a  pound  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger 


HOT  DESSERTS.  639 

and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  these  ingredients  well,  then  stir  in  a  teacupful 
each  of  milk  and  treacle,  and  one  beaten  egg.  Butter  thick  the  interior  of  a  pud- 
ding basin,  turn  the  mixture  into  it  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  tying  it 
round  the  rim  of  the  basin.  Put  the  basin  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  to  three- 
quarters  its  height,  and  steam  for  two  hours,  taking  care  that  the  water  does  not  enter 
the  basin.  Turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  hot  dish  when  cooked. 


Gooseberry   Pudding. 


Take  one  and  a  half  pints  of  green  gooseberries,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  and  stew  gently  until  soft  but  not  broken.  Drain,  and  mash 
them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  using  a  wooden  spoon.  Warm  slightly  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  butter  and  beat  it  well  with  as  much  powdered  sugar ;  then  beat  in  the 
gooseberry  pulp,  eight  eggs  and  four  pounded  lady  fingers.  Pour  the  mixture  when 
quite  smooth  into  a  pie- dish  and  bake  it  for  half  an  hour.  It  may  be  served  either 
hot  or  cold. 


Imperial   Pudding. 


Chop  fine  four  ounces  of  beef  suet,  and  mix  with  it  four  ounces  of  grated 
breadcrumb,  two  ounces  of  ground  rice,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  and 
the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  moisten  with  one  well-beaten 
egg  and  a  little  milk.  Butter  a  mould,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  fix  a  sheet  of  but- 
tered paper  over  the  top,  and  steam  the  contents  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  When 
cooked  turn  the  pudding  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

Jelly   Pudding. 

Scald  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  milk,  pour  it  over  about  one  pound  of  sifted  bread- 
crumbs, and  beat  it  up  till  nearly  cold ;  then  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  seven  eggs, 
then  the  beaten  whites,  and  finally  one  and  one-half  saltspoonfuls  of  bicarbonate  of 
soda  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water.  Half  fill  some  breakfast  cups  with  this  batter, 
place  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  When  done  turn 
them  quickly  out  of  the  cups,  make  a  cut  part  way  round  each  one  with  a  sharp  knife, 
pull  them  open  sufficiently  to  get  the  bowl  of  a  spoon  inside,  slip  inside  one  table- 
spoonful  of  any  kind  of  sweet  jelly,  and  pinch  the  slit  together  again.  Serve  hot  with 
cream  and  sugar. 

Lemon    Pudding. 

(i)  Butter  a  pint  pudding-basin  and  line  it  with  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll  cut 
in  thin  slices  and  thickly  spread  with  lemon  paste.  Make  a  custard  with  one-half 
pint  of  new  milk,  two  eggs,  flavor  with  a  little  grated  lemon  peel  and  sweeten 
to  taste.  Fill  the  basin  with  this  custard,  put  on  this  some  slices  of  the  French 
roll,  also  spread  with  the  lemon  paste,  tie  over  the  top  of  the  basin  a 


640  HOT  DESSERTS. 

thick  paper,  stand  it  in  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  about  one-half  its  height,  place 
the  lid  on  the  stewpan  and  let  it  steam  for  one  hour.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to 
keep  the  water  just  below  the  boiling  point.  When  done,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and 
serve  with  sweet  sauce  poured  round  it 


Lemon   Souffle   Pudding. 


Chop  fine  three  ounces  of  butter  and  work  it  into  about  one-half  pound  of 
flour.  Pour  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  and  when  almost  boiling, 
stir  the  flour  and  butter  into  it.  Continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens,  then 
beat  up  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs  and  six  ounces  of  sugar  and  stir  them  into  the  flour 
and  milk;  pour  the  mixture  into  a  shallow  pan,  whip  well,  let  it  stand  till  cold  and 
then  beat  the  whites  of  seven  or  eight  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Turn  the  pudding  into  a 
buttered  mould,  allowing  plenty  of  room  for  swelling,  cover  and  steam  for  an  hour 
and  a  half,  keeping  the  water  under  the  steamer  boiling  all  the  time.  When  removed 
from  the  steamer,  dip  the  mould  into  cold  water  for  a  moment,  take  it  out,  let  stand 
for  one  minute,  and  then  turn  the  pudding  onto  a  hot  dish.  Serve  brandy  sauce  with  it. 

Macaroon    Puddings. 

Place  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  macaroons  in  a  basin  and  pour  over  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  boiling  cream.  Leave  until  cold,  then  beat  them  up  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  six  eggs  and  mix  them  in  with  the  macaroons,  adding 
sugar  to  taste  and  a  wineglassful  and  a  half  of  pale  brandy.  Butter  some  moulds,  fill 
them  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  for  ten  minutes.  When  they  are  cooked,  turn  them 
out  onto  a  dish,  dust  them  over  with  fine  sugar,  and  serve. 


Mousseline    Pudding. 


Put  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  lined  saucepan  to  melt,  then  mix  in  six  ounces 
of  sugar  and  the  grated  rinds  of  two  small  lemons  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  fifteen  eggs. 
Stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  thickened,  but  not  boiling,  then  strain  it  through  a 
fine  sieve  into  a  basin.  Whisk  the  whites  of  fifteen  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  when 
the  above  mixture  has  somewhat  cooled,  stir  them  in  lightly.  Butter  a  mould,  pour  the 
mixture  into  it,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water  to  three-fourths  its  height, 
and  steam  for  twenty  minutes.  Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the  water  to  enter 
at  the  top  of  the  mould.  When  the  pudding  is  cooked,  turn  it  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour 
some  preserved  apricots  round  it,  garnish  with  cherries,  and  serve. 


Neapolitan    Pudding. 


Put  three  and  a  half  ounces  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  into  a  basin,  mix  it  up  with 
twelve  ounces  of  sifted  breadcrumbs,  and  beat  in  one  wineglassful  of  rum,  the  rind  of 
a  lemon  very  finely  chopped,  and  finally  four  well-beaten  eggs.  Put  six  tablespoon- 


HOT  DESSERTS.  641 

fuls  of  cream  into  a  basin,  add  three  more  well-beaten  eggs,  and  continue  to  whisk 
until  they  are  well  incorporated.  Put  a  layer  of  ratafias  mixed  with  a  few  bread- 
crumbs at  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  plain  mould,  then  a  layer  of  the  mixture, 
then  the  slices  of  sponge  cake  thickly  spread  with  any  kind  of  jam  desired,  and 
continue  in  this  way  until  the  mould  is  quite  full,  finishing  up  with  the  mixture. 
Place  the  mould  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for  an  hour.  Turn  the  pudding  out 
onto  a  dish,  pour  over  two  tablespoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly  warmed  and  mixed  with 
a  small  quantity  of  white  wine,  and  serve. 

Orange   Pudding   (Baked.) 

Put  one  quart  of  milk  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan.  Beat  very  light  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two,  together  with  four  ounces  of  sugar.  When  the  milk 
gets  very  hot  but  before  it  boils,  pour  it  over  the  beaten  eggs  and  stir  well  together, 
adding  the  grated  yellow  rind  of  an  orange;  then  pour  it  into  a  buttered  pudding- 
dish,  put  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  in  the  oven,  and  bake.  Beat  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  to  a  stiff  broth,  and  when  the  pudding 
is  done,  remove  from  the  oven,  spread  this  froth  over,  and  return  it  to  the  oven  for 
two  or  three  minutes  to  harden  the  froth. 

Pineapple    Pudding. 

Make  a  crust  with  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  suet  chopped  very  fine  (or  beef 
marrow  may  be  used,  if  desired),  one-half  pound  of  flour,  and  sufficient  water  to  mix, 
using  a  knife  for  mixing  and  not  the  hands.  With  this  line  a  greased  basin,  and  put 
in  about  half  a  grated  pineapple  and  a  liquor-glassful  of  curacoa,  which  should  about 
half  fill  it,  then  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  paste,  pour  over  a  sweetened  custard 
prepared  with  a  teacupful  of  milk  and  a  couple  of  eggs,  and  flavored  with  a  little 
noyau;  cover  it  over  with  some  more  of  the  paste,  and  steam  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 


Plum    Pudding. 


( I ).  Beat  up  a  dozen  eggs  and  mix  with  them  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  each  of  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  flour.  When  well  beaten  together, 
mix  in  a  pound  and  a  half  each  of  very  finely-chopped  suet,  sugar,  stoned  and  chopped 
raisins  and  well-washed  and  dried  currants,  together  with  three  ounces  of  candied 
citron  and  a  similar  amount  of  orange-peel  cut  very  fine.  Grate  in  one  and  a  half 
nutmegs,  and  mix  well  six  teaspoonfuls  of  brandy  and  a  like  quantity  of  white  wine; 
tie  the  pudding  tightly  in  a  greased  cloth,  plunge  it  into  boiling  water  and  boil  con- 
tinually for  nine  hours. 

(2).  Incorporate  one  pound  of  flour  and  half  that  quantity  of  shredded  beef- 
suet  in  a  basin,  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  breadcrumbs,  a  little  grated  nutmeg 
and  ginger  to  flavor,  one  pound  of  stoned  raisins,  and  form  the  whole  into  a  thick 


642  HOT  DESSERTS. 

paste,  by  adding  a  couple  of  teaspoonfuls  of  treacle  and  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  milk. 
Turn  this  preparation  into  a  cloth  or  basin,  place  in  a  stewpan  of  water,  and  boil  for 
four  hours,  when  it  should  be  done;  turn  it  out  and  serve. 

Scotch   Plum   Pudding. 

Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  with  half  a  pound  of  raisins  and  place  them 
in  a  basin,  mix  in  half  a  pound  of  caster-sugar,  four  ounces  of  breadcrumbs,  two 
ounces  of  thinly-shredded  candied  peel  and  a  pound  of  marmalade;  beat  five  eggs 
thoroughly  and  stir  them  into  this  mixture,  making  the  whole  smooth;  turn  this  into 
a  buttered  basin,  tie  a  floured  cloth  over  it  and  boil  for  five  hours.  Make  a  sauce  as 
follows:  Blanch  and  pound  a  couple  of  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  moistening  them 
frequently  with  a  little  rose  water  to  prevent  their  oiling,  warm  two  ounces  of  butter 
with  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  beat  it  until  creamy,  then  beat  in  the 
pounded  almonds,  and  a  wineglassful  of  pale  brandy.  When  done,  turn  it  onto  a  hot 
dish,  and  serve  with  the  cold  sauce. 

Quince    Pudding. 

Boil  seven  large  quinces  until  they  are  very  soft;  peel,  core  and  mash  them,  then 
add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  together  with  one  pint  of  cream.  Sweeten  the 
mixture  to  taste,  and  flavor  it  with  a  little  powdered  ginger  and  cinnamon.  Butter 
the  edges  of  a  pie-dish,  place  a  strip  of  puff  paste  round  it,  pour  in  the  pudding,  and 
bake  in  a.  moderate  oven  for  forty-five  minutes.  When  cooked  sift  powdered  sugar 
over,  and  serve  with  a  rich  custard. 


Raspberry    Pudding. 


Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  basin,  warm  and  beat  it  up  with  three  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Stir  in  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  one  pound  of  raspberry  jam.  Have  in 
readiness  one-half  pound  of  fine  breadcrumbs,  place  a  layer  of  them  at  the  bottom  of 
a  buttered  mould,  then  a  layer  of  the  jam  mixture,  and  keep  on  in  this  way  until  the 
whole  is  used  up.  Place  the  mould  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for  about  an  hour. 
Turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 


Ratafia   Pudding   (Baked). 


Pour  one  quart  of  cream  into  a  saucepan,  sprinkle  in  one-half  pound  of  dry 
sponge-cakes  well  crushed,  and  boil  for  about  half  an  hour.  Add  about  three  ounces 
of  butter,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  one  wineglassful  of  wine,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
grated  nutmeg  to  flavor,  and  stir  well  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  turn  them 
into  a  basin  to  cool.  When  it  is  nearly  cold,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs 
and  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  blanched  and  pounded  with  a  little  lemon  juice, 


HOT  DESSERTS.  643 

and  mix  all  thoroughly  together.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  pie-dish,  sprinkle  over  a 
little  sugar,  place  it  in  a  sharp  oven,  and  bake  in  a  sharp  oven  until  done.  Take  it 
out,  and  serve. 

Rice   Pudding   (Baked). 

Take  one  teacupful  of  rice  boiled  in  milk  until  it  is  three-fourths  cooked,  add 
two  well-beaten  eggs,  two  ounces  of  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  and  a  little  cream  as 
well  is  an  improvement.  Stir  together  well,  put  the  pudding  into  cups  and  bake. 
Serve  hot  with  wine  sauce. 

Rice   Pudding  (Boiled). 

Wash  thoroughly  one  teacupful  of  rice,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of 
milk,  and  boil  until  it  is  tender,  then  move  it  from  the  fire,  and  mix  in  a  small  piece 
of  butter.  Chop  fine  four  ounces  of  suet,  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  the  whites 
of  two,  and  thoroughly  wash  and  dry  one-fourth  pound  of  currants.  Mix  these  ingre- 
dients with  the  rice,  add  also  one-fourth  pound  of  sugar,  one  wineglassful  of  brandy 
and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Butter  a  pudding-basin,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  tie  a 
pudding-cloth  over  the  top,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  for  two 
hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  turn  the  pudding  out  of  the  basin  onto  a  dish,  and 
serve. 

Rice   and   Fruit   Pudding. 

Wash  a  small  quantity  of  rice,  and  put  it  in  a  pie-dish  in  the  oven  with  a  little 
water ;  when  the  water  has  evaporated  add  to  the  rice  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  stir  it 
and  put  it  in  again  in  the  oven,  stirring  it  now  and  again  until  it  is  soft,  and  adding 
more  milk  if  required.  A  little  sweet  cream  stirred  in  is  an  improvement.  Fill  a 
pie-dish  almost  full  of  fruit,  sweeten  it  well,  and  then  lay  the  rice  unevenly  over  it  in 
handfuls.  Put  it  into  the  oven,  bake  until  the  rice  is  brown,  and  then  serve. 

Rice  and    Tapioca   Pudding. 

Put  in  a  little  more  than  one-half  teacupful  of  rice  (without  its  being  washed) 
into  a  deep  pie-dish,  and  add  a  little  less  than  one-half  teacupful  of  tapioca.  Mix 
these  together  well,  add  one-half  teacupful  of  crushed  loaf  sugar,  pour  over  six  break- 
fast cupfuls  of  milk,  and  sprinkle  over  a  small  quantity  of  ground  cinnamon  or  grated 
nutmeg.  Place  the  dish  in  a  slack  oven,  bake  for  about  four  hours,  take  it  out,  and 
serve. 

Rice   Pudding  with  Apples. 

Put  ten  ounces  of  well-washed  rice  into  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  blanch,  drain, 
refresh  it  in  cold  water,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  covering  to  twice  its  height  with  boiled 
milk,  and  set  it  to  boil.  As  quickly  as  it  commences  to  cook,  move  the  saucepan  to 
the  side  of  the  fire,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  cook  gently  until  the  rice  is  soft.  Add  a 


644  HOT  DESSERTS. 

small  quantity  of  chopped  lemon  peel,  two  or  three  ounces  of  stoned  raisins  and 
finally  five  or  six  eggs,  working  one  well  in  before  another  is  added.  Let  the  mixture 
cool ;  sprinkle  a  buttered  charlotte- mould  over  with  breadcrumbs,  turn  in  the  mixture, 
stand  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  it  for  forty-five  or  fifty  minutes.  Remove  it, 
cut  out  a  thin  round  from  the  top,  and  scoop  out  the  inside,  taking  care  not  to  leave 
the  sides  too  thin.  Fill  the  cavity  with  cooked  minced  apples,  well  mixed  with  a 
little  apricot  marmalade,  place  the  round  back  in  its  place,  turn  the  pudding  out  onto 
a  dish  over  a  little  more  of  the  apricot  marmalade,  sprinkle  over  some  fine  white 
sugar,  and  serve  at  once. 

Rice    Pudding  with   Walnuts. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  rice  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  it  rather  coarse ;  turn  it 
into  a  saucepan  with  three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  flavor  it  with  rose-water,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  thick.  Sweeten  the  mixture  to  the  taste  with  sugar,  and  pour  it 
into  a  dish.  Peel  a  few  walnuts,  place  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them.  When  the 
pudding  is  cold,  sift  the  pounded  walnuts  over  it,  and  serve. 


Rum    Pudding. 


Pour  over  one  breakfast  cupful  of  breadcrumbs  just  sufficient  rum  to  moisten 
them.  Beat  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  with  the  whites  of  two  add,  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  mix  them  with  the  soaked  breadcrumbs  and  flavor 
with  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  Whisk  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them  with  the  above  ingredients.  Butter 
the  interior  of  a  dome-shaped  mould,  fill  it  with  the  mixture,  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water  and  steam  it  for  an  hour.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the  water 
to  enter  the  mould.  When  cooked,  turn  the  pudding  onto  a  hot  dish,  pour  one  wine- 
glassful  of  rum  over  it,  ignite  it,  and  serve  it  immediately  with  a  sauceboatful  of 
orange  sauce. 

Sago   Pudding,   Baked. 

Boil  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  a  large  lemon  in  one  quart  of  new  milk.  Take  the 
lemon  peel  out  of  the  milk  and  put  in  one  teacupful  of  washed  sago  and  three- 
fourths  of  a  teacupful  of  sugar.  Allow  the  sago  to  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  or 
until  tender,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  leave  it  to  cool.  Line  a  buttered  pie- 
dish  with  rich  puff-paste;  mix  two  ounces  of  butter  and  five  well-beaten  eggs  with 
the  sago,  turn  it  into  a  pie-dish  and  bake  it  for  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
cooked,  serve  the  pudding  in  the  same  dish. 

Sherry   Sponge    Pudding. 

Butter  a  pie-dish  and  put  into  it  two  sponge-cakes  and  one  wineglassful  of 
sherry.  Boil  one-half  pint  of  milk  with  three  or  four  lumps  of  sugar,  then  beat  two 


HOT  DESSERTS.  645 

eggs  up  with  it;  when  the  wine  is  absorbed,  pour  the  custard  over  the  cakes  and  bake 
it  in  a  slow  oven.     When  set,  turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Strawberry   Pudding. 

Spread  a  layer  of  strawberry  jam  at  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  pie-dish  and  cover 
it  thickly  with  breadcrumbs.  Beat  four  eggs  with  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar, 
then  put  them  in  a  sauce  pan  with  one  quart  of  milk,  season  with  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thick.  Pour  the  above  mixture  slowly  into  the  pie- 
dish  with  the  crumbs,  put  the  pudding  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  it  for  half  an 
hour.  When  done,  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Tapioca   Custard   Pudding. 

Take  one  breakfast  cupful  of  tapioca,  pour  over  it  just  enough  water  to  cover, 
and  allow  it  to  steep  all  night.  Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  lightly.  Pour  one  quart 
of  milk  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  when  warm  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks,  and 
one-half  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar.  Sprinkle  a  very  little  salt  over  the  soaked 
tapioca,  remove  the  milk  and  eggs  from  the  fire  before  they  boil,  and  beat  them  into 
it.  Whisk  the  whites  of  five  eggs  to  a  firm  froth,  stir  them  lightly  and  quickly  into 
the  pudding,  pour  it  into  a  buttered  pudding-basin,  stand  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  with  a  dish  turned  down  over  it  to  cover  it  until  the 
custard  thickens;  then  remove  it  from  the  oven,  take  the  cover  off,  lift  it  out  of  the 
hot  water,  and  stand  it  in  the  hot  part  of  the  oven  to  brown.  It  may  be  served  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Vanilla    Pudding. 

Place  a  vanilla  bean  in  a  mortar  together  with  one-half  pound  of  sugar,  pound 
well  together,  then  sift.  Separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites  of  nine  eggs,  beat  the 
yolks  well,  stir  them  in  with  one  quart  of  cream,  and  then  mix  in  the  vanilla  sugar. 
Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  broth,  and  mix  them  in  lightly  with  the  other 
ingredients.  Butter  the  interior  of  a  pudding-mould,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  cover 
with  a  sheet  of  paper.  Stand  the  mould  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  steam 
the  pudding  for  a  little  less  than  an  hour.  In  the  meantime  prepare  the  following 
sauce  for  the  pudding:  Pour  one  breakfast  cupful  of  either  canned  or  fresh  pineapple 
juice  into  a  small  lined  saucepan  with  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Put  the  pan  over  the 
fire  until  the  contents  are  boiling,  then  pour  it  gradually  over  one  tablespoonful  of 
arrowroot,  stirring  it  at  the  same  time;  return  the  sauce  to  the  saucepan,  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  thickened.  When  cooked  turn  the  pudding  out  of  the  mould  onto 
a  hot  dish,  strain  the  juice  over  it,  and  serve.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  water 
does  not  enter  into  the  top  of  the  mould,  while  the  pudding  is  cooking,  or  it  will  be 
spoiled. 


646  HOT  DESSERTS. 


Vanilla  Souffle   Pudding. 


Mix  five  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to  a  smooth  paste  with  one-half  pint  of  cold 
milk,  then  stir  in  one-half  pint  of  boiling  milk;  pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  for  five  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  then  mix  them  in  with  the  milk  and  flour,  and  flavor  the  mixture  with  a  small 
quantity  of  essence  of  vanilla.  Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs  well,  and  stir  them  into 
the  above  mixture  when  it  is  cold.  Coat  the  inside  of  a  mould  with  butter,  ornament 
it  with  halves  of  dried  cherries,  and  pour  in  the  souffle;  place  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper  on  top,  and  tie  a  cloth  over.  Boil  the  souffle  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  then 
remove  the  mould  from  the  water,  and  in  three  or  four  minutes'  time  turn  the  souffle 
onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

i 

Italian    Rice   Balls. 

.    .-...'      !     '     ••      •  _         I 

Take  some  cooked  rice,  not  too  moist,  and  nicely  flavored  and  sweetened,  roll  it 
flat,  cut  it  into  pieces  of  convenient  shape,  and  roll  them  up  like  a  sausage  putting  a 
little  preserve  in  the  center  of  each.  Brush  them  over  with  egg,  cover  them  with 
sifted  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them. 

'.:-'.   l    V:;:;:>i    ' 

Boiled   Rice. 

.'j     I;  ;.••)'•  •  •-•: 

Wash  thoroughly  about  twelve  ounces  of  rice,  using  several  waters,  tie  it  up  in  a 
cloth,  allowing  plenty  of  room  for  it  to  swell.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  of  cold  water 
and  boil  for  about  two  hours.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  some  jam  or 
sweet  sauce. 

Rice   Cake. 

b*?»KU 

Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  and  one-half  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  place  them  in 
a  mortar  with  a  small  quantity  of  water  and  pound  them  to  a  pulp;  then  add  two 
quarts  of  water  and  strain  them  through  a  cloth  into  a  saucepan.  Add  twelve  ounces 
of  well-washed  rice  blanched  in  boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes,  also  one-half  pound 
of  crushed  loaf-sugar  and  a  very  little  salt.  Bring  the  liquor  to  the  boil  and  stir 
gently  and  frequently  until  the  rice  is  so  well  cooked  that  it  will  easily  break  when 
pressed  between  the  fingers.  Pound  it  all  well  again  in  a  mortar,  pass  it  through  a 
fine  sieve  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  to  bind  it  and  form  a  paste  which 
should  be  quite  firm.  Put  it  into  a  well-buttered  mould  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  done. 

Rice   Cheese   Cakes. 

Boil  four  ounces  of  rice  in  one-half  gallon  of  water,  dry  it  well,  put  it  into  another 
saucepan  and  add  eight  ounces  of  butter,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  orange-flower  water,  a  small  quantity  of  finely-chopped  lemon  peel  and 


HOT  DESSERTS.  647 

one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Form  the  whole  into  a  paste  by  adding  half  a 
dozen  well-beaten  eggs  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  is  thick;  then  move 
the  pan  from  the  fire  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool.  Have  in  readiness  some  patty- 
pans lined  with  puff-paste,  place  the  rice  mixture  in  them  to  about  three-fourths 
their  height,  put  them  into  a  slack  oven  and  bake  for  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes. 
When  done  remove,  turn  them  out  of  the  pans,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Rice   Conde. 

Boil  together  one  pint  each  of  milk  and  water;  when  boiling  drop  in  one  teacup- 
ful  of  well-washed  rice  and  boil  for  twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  it  all  the  time.  When 
cooked  stir  in  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  orange- 
flower  water.  Mix  all  well  together  for  one  minute,  break  in  three  whole  eggs  and 
stir  again  for  two  minutes.  Arrange  the  rice  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  keeping  it  high  in 
the  center,  and  decorate  it  with  stewed  peaches,  two  ounces  of  dried  currants  and  one 
ounce  of  dried  angelica  cut  in  small,  lozenge-shaped  pieces. 

Creamed  Rice. 

Boil  one  teacupful  of  washed  rice  in  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk  until  quite 
soft  and  thick;  when  it  is  about  half-cooked  put  in  some  thinly-pared  lemon  peel 
chopped  very  small,  a  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg  or  a  laurel  leaf,  and  sugar  to 
taste.  When  the  rice  is  quite  done,  pick  out  the  laurel  leaf,  pour  the  rice  into  a 
mould,  and  let  it  stand  until  the  following  day.  Turn  it  out,  serve  with  a  jam  round 
it,  or  a  thick  custard  poured  over  it. 


Rice,     French    Style. 


Wash  well  and  blanch  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes  one-fourth  pound  of  rice. 
Boil  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  adding  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one  pint  of  milk,  two  bitter  almond  macaroons,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  orange-flower 
water,  one-half  ounce  of  orange-peel  cut  into  shreds,  about  a  dozen  candied  cherries 
cut  into  halves,  and  a  dozen  large,  stoned,  Muscatel  raisins,  also  one-fourth  ounce  of 
thinly-sliced  candied  angelica.  Pour  into  the  mould,  and  when  cold  turn  it  out,  and 
serve  it  with  a  sauce  thickened  with  one  gill  of  sherry,  kirsch  or  rum. 

Rice   Puffs. 

Put  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cold,  cooked  rice  into  a  basin,  stir  in  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of 
warmed  butter,  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  enough  milk  to  form  the 
whole  into  a  stiff  paste.  Then  add  the  whites  of  the  five  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth;  take  the 
preparation  up  in  a  spoon,  drop  the  lumps  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling  fat,  brown,  remove 


648  HOT  DESSERTS. 

them,  and  drain  off  all  the  fat,  put   them  on  a  napkin  spread  over   a  dish,  and  serve 
without  delay. 

Souffles. 

Souffles  are  usually  cooked  in  flat,  metal  dishes,  round  tins  or  fluted  moulds,  ac- 
cording to  the  style,  a  very  useful  flat  dish  being  one  with  a  loose,  tin  lining,  the 
souffle  being  kept  nicely  warmed  by  hot  water  in  the  larger  vessel. 

(i).  Mix  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  potato  flour,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  little  finely-chopped  lemon  peel,  and  one  teacupful  of  milk,  and 
stir  them  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  then  put  in  one  ounce  of  butter  and  continue 
stirring  until  the  flour  is  cooked.  When  the  mixture  is  cool  add  the  beaten  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  stir  quickly  and  then  add  the  well-whisked  whites  of  the  eggs.  Butter  a 
souffle-dish,  turn  the  mixture  into  it  and  bake  it  for  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  Serve  the  souffle  as  soon  as  it  is  cooked. 

Cheese  Souffles. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
flour;  when  smooth,  add  one  teacupful  of  milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
little  cayenne  pepper,  and  cook  for  two  minutes;  then  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
three  eggs  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  grated  cheese,  and  set  it  one  side  to  cool. 
After  it  is  cold,  add  the  whites,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  turn  into  a  buttered  dish,  and 
bake  for  about  thirty  minutes,  then  serve  immediately. 


Cherry   Souffles. 


Put  four  ounces  of  flour  into  a  saucepan,  and  pour  in  slowly  one  and  one-half 
pints  of  milk,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thick  and  smooth.  When  cooked,  take 
the  mixture  off  the  fire,  and  continue  stirring  until  nearly  cold.  Warm  four  ounces  of 
butter  and  whisk  it  until  creamy;  then  mix  in  four  ounces  of  sugar,  six  well-beaten 
eggs,  and  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  sugar.  Stir  all  these  together  with  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  black  cherries.  Butter  a  souffle-mould,  and  sprinkle  in  some  grated 
breadcrumbs,  shaking  out  the  superfluous  crumbs.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  mould, 
cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked, 
turn  the  souffle  out  onto  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  it  at  once. 

Chestnut   Souffles. 

After  slitting  the  skins  of  about  three  dozen  large  chestnuts,  roast  them,  but  do 
not  allow  them  to  brown,  then  peel,  pound  in  a  mortar,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Put 
the  mixture  back  into  the  mortar  with  half  its  weight  in  sugar  added,  a  part  of  which 
has  been  flavored  with  vanilla,  and  add  the  white  of  an  egg,  mix  all  thoroughly 
together,  and  then  shape  the  paste  into  small  balls.  Dip  each  ball  into  the  whisked 


HOT  DESSERTS.  649 

white  of  an  egg,  allow  them  to  drain,  and  then  roll  them  one  at  a  time  in  powdered 
sugar  until  they  are  entirely  covered  with  it;  arrange  them  on  a  baking  sheet  a  little 
distance  from  each  other,  and  bake  them  for  twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  done,  put  them  in  a  group  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Chocolate   Souffles. 

Put  one  and  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  put  on  the  fire  and 
boil.  Take  a  third  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch,  and  put 
it  to  the  boiling  milk.  Dissolve  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  chocolate  and  one  teacupful 
of  sugar  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  and  also  add  this  to  the  milk.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  put  this  to  the  mixture.  Put 
the  boiler  in  ice  water  and  beat  until  cold.  Flavor  with  vanilla  and  pour  into  a  dish. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  put  in  half  a  cupful  more  sugar,  and  heap 
it  on  the  mixture  in  the  dish. 

Coffee   Souffle. 

(1)  In  a  sugar  boiler  put  one-half  pound  of  green  coffee,  roast  without  brown- 
ing it,  and  soak  in  it  one  quart  of  boiling  milk  for  about  an  hour.     Stir  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla-sugar  and  caster-sugar  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  together  with  the  prepared  milk;    pour  it  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over 
the    fire  until  boiling.     Remove  the  mixture  from  the  fire,  put  in  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  with  the  whites  beaten  very  firm,  fill  some  paper  cases  with   the  mixture,  and 
bake.     When  done,  sprinkle  caster-sugar  over  the  top,  and  serve  immediately. 

(2)  Put  into  a  stewpan  one  pint  each  of  milk  and  cream,  add  a  little  sugar  and 
salt,  and  let  it  boil.     Roast  one-fourth  pound  of  raw  coffee  and  throw  it  while   hot 
into  the  boiling  cream,  and  finish  the  same  as  for  No.  I. 

Cream   Souffles. 

Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  into  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  it  is  well-mixed,  then  pour  in  by  degrees  one  pint  of  cream,  and 
continue  stirring  until  it  boils.  Turn  the  mixture  onto  a  dish  and  leave  it  until  cool. 
Warm  four  ounces  of  butter  and  beat  until  creamy,  then  beat  in  gradually  the  yolks 
of  ten  eggs  and  three  ounces  of  vanilla-sugar.  Whip  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth  and  stir  them  with  the  other  eggs  into  the  cooled  mixture.  Butter  the  interior 
of  a  souffle  mould  thick  and  strew  it  over  with  breadcrumbs,  shaking  out  the  super- 
fluous ones;  pour  in  the  mixture  and  tie  a  sheet  of  buttered-paper  over  the  top. 
Place  the  mould  in  a  saucepan,  pour  round  it  boiling  water  to  three  parts  its  height 
taking  care  not  to  allow  any  to  go  into  the  mould,  and  boil  it  gently  at  the  side  of 
the  fire  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  the  souffle  is  cooked,  turn  it  onto  a  hot 
dish,  and  serve  without  delay. 


650  HOT  DESSERTS. 

Custard   Souffle 

Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  together;  boil 
half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  add  the  flour  and  butter  gradually  to  the  boiling  milk  and 
stir  over  the  fire  for  eight  minutes;  beat  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  caster-sugar,  stir  in  with  the  milk  and  the  rest  of  the  mixture  and  let  it 
cool.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  four  eggs  to  a  froth,  mix  them  with  the  cold  custard, 
turn  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Gooseberry   Souffle. 

Take  the  required  quantity  of  gooseberries,  sweeten  to  taste,  pass  them  through 
a  sieve  into  a  tart-dish,  and  let  them  get  cold.  Cover  over  to  two  inches  in  depth 
with  rich  custard,  then  with  the  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  piling  it  in 
lumps,  dust  over  with  fine  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  very  slack  oven  for  a  few  minutes. 

Lemon  Souffle. 

Stir  one  ounce  of  flour  into  one  ounce  of  warmed  butter;  when  entirely  smooth 
mix  in  one  pint  of  milk  previously  sweetened  with  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  grate 
in  the  rind  of  a  small  lemon,  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  is  thick.  Re- 
move the  saucepan,  stir  in  gradually  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  beat  the  whites 
of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  mix  them  lightly  with  the  rest.  Butter  a  pudding 
mould,  tie  a  strip  of  paper  round  the  outside  to  prevent  the  souffle  coming  over  it  as 
it  rises,  pour  the  preparation  into  the  mould,  stand  it  in  a  saucepan  with  boiling  water 
to  half  its  height,  and  allow  it  to  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  sufficiently  firm 
to  turn  out.  Make  a  sauce  as  follows:  Boil  two  tablespoonfuls  of  crushed  loaf  sugar 
in  one  teacupful  of  cold  water  for  ten  minutes,  then  put  in  the  strained  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  with  one  wineglassful  of  sherry,  mix  it  with  the 
syrup  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thickened.  Turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  dish, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Orange   Souffle. 

Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  smoothly  with  one  pint  of  cream,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rosewater  and  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  thinly-pa'red 
orange  peel  and  a  little  cinnamon;  stir  till  it  boils,  and  remove.  Strain  and  add  suffi- 
cient powdered  white  sugar  to  sweeten  it.  Let  it  stand  till  cold  and  then  mix  with 
it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  marmalade  and  six  eggs  beaten  well  with  a  wineglassful  of 
brandy.  Pour  it  onto  a  well-buttered  mould,  stand  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water, 
and  let  it  boil  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter  without  any  cover  over  it. 


HOT  DESSERTS.  651 

Pistachio    Souffles. 

Four  ounces  of  blanched  pistachios  should  be  cut,  half  of  them  into  strips  and 
the  remainder  chopped  fine.  Whip  up  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and 
mix  it  with  the  strips  of  pistachios  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar;  place  this  mixture  in 
small  paper  cases  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  width  and  height,  dusting  over 
with  a  little  sugar,  and  moisten  it  a  little,  sprinkle  over  the  chopped  pistachios,  bak- 
ing in  a  slack  oven  until  a  brown  color  is  attained;  then  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and 
serve. 


Strawberry   Souffle. 


Pick  the  stems  from  three  pounds  of  ripe  strawberries,  put  these  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon  and  one  teacupful  of  crushed  loaf  sugar,  and 
allow  to  simmer  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  one 
pint  of  milk,  sweeten  to  taste  with  sugar,  stand  the  basin  in  a  saucepan  containing 
hot  water,  and  stir  the  custard  mixture  over  the  fire  till  it  is  thick.  Put  the  straw- 
berries round  a  glass  dish,  forming  a  high  wall  and  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center, 
which  fill  with  custard;  whisk  the  white  of  four  eggs  to  a  firm  froth,  pour  them  over 
the  souffle,  cover  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve. 

Vanilla  Souffle. 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  one  teacupful  each  of  flour  and  sugar. 
When  well  incorporated  stir  in  gradually  one  pint  of  fresh  milk,  and  strain  it  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  saucepan.  Put  about  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  piece  of  stick  of 
vanilla,  and  a  little  salt  in  with  the  other  ingredients,  and  stir  them  over  a  very  slow 
fire  until  thick ;  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  continue  stirring  for  a  few  minutes 
longer.  Remove  the  vanilla  from  the  mixture,  allow  it  to  cool  a  little,  then  mix  with 
it  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  a  small  lump  of  butter,  and  last  of  all  the  well- 
whisked  whites  of  half  a  dozen  eggs.  Make  some  small  paper  cases  in  the  shape  of 
a  long  square,  butter  them  and  nearly  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  which  should  be 
sufficient  in  quantity  to  fill  eight  cases.  Place  the  souffles  in  a  slow  oven,  and  bake 
them  for  eighteen  minutes.  Serve  the  moment  they  are  done. 

Pear   Timbale   with    Raisins. 

Butter  a  timbale-mould  and  line  it  with  short  paste.  Peel,  core  and  mince  twelve 
pears,  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  and  cook  them  over  a  slow 
fire  till  half  done.  Put  in  with  the  pears  a  quarter  of  a  stick  of  vanilla,  two  break- 
fast cupfuls  of  picked  Smyrna  raisins,  previously  softened  in  warm  water,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade,  and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar.  When  done  leave  the 
pears  to  cool.  Dilute  a  little  apricot  marmalade  with  kircsh.  Fill  the  lined  mould 


652  HOT  DESSERTS. 

with  the  pears,  put  a  flat  of  the  same  paste  over  it  and  bake  it  in  a  slack  oven  for 
three-fourths  of  an  hour.  When  done,  turn  the  timbales  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  over 
some  chopped  pistachios,  pour  over  the  apricot  sauce,  and  serve. 

Vol-au-Vents   Chantilly. 

Take  one  pound  of  puff-paste,  give  it  six  and  a  half  turns,  roll  it  out  to  about 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  with  a  fluted  cutter  cut  out  about  two  and 
one-half  dozen  pieces.  Form  them  into  rings  by  cutting  out  the  centers  with  a 
cutter  about  one  and  one-fourth  inch  in  diameter.  With  the  trimmings  of  the  paste 
prepare  an  equal  number  of  rings  the  same  size,  brush  them  over  with  egg,  put  one 
of  the  other  rings  on  top  of  each,  press  them  together  so  they  will  adhere,  place 
them  on  a  baking-sheet,  brush  them  over  with  egg,  put  them  into  a  brisk  oven,  and 
bake.  When  nearly  done,  sprinkle  them  over  with  sugar,  and  stand  them  in  the  oven 
to  glaze  and  finish  cooking.  When  done,  remove  them  and  fill  them  with  any  kind  of 
cream  desired. 

Vol-au-Vents   with   Strawberries. 

Prepare  one  pound  of  puff-paste,  giving  it  six  and  a  half  turns;  roll  it  out  to 
about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  with  a  fluted  cutter  about  two  inches  in 
diameter  cut  about  thirty  rounds.  Then  cut  out  the  center  of  these  with  a  cutter 
one  and  one-fourth  inches  in  diameter.  Work  up  the  balance  of  the  paste  and  with  it 
form  an  equal  number  of  rings  cut  out  in  the  same  manner.  Place  them  on  top 
of  one  another.  Have  ready  four  ounces  of  sugar  boiled  to  the  caramel  degree 
(see  Sugar  Boiling),  dip  the  tops  of  the  vol-au- vents  into  it,  and  afterward  into 
coarsely-sifted  loaf-sugar,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven.  Put  three  ounces  more  of  sugar 
into  the  saucepan  with  the  caramel,  reduce  it  again  to  the  caramel  degree,  then  add 
about  one  teacupful  of  the  strained  juice  of  strawberries.  Fill  the  vol-au-vent  cases 
with  whole  strawberries,  cover  with  the  syrup,  and  serve. 


Cold   Desserts. 

Almond    Bavarois. 

Put  a  small  quantity  of  gelatine  into  a  basin  with  a  little  milk  and  soak  it  for  two 
hours.  Put  sufficient  cream  into  a  basin,  and  whip  until  there  is  but  one-third  of  the 
amount  left,  the  remainder  being  in  a  stiff  froth.  Put  the  blanched  sweet  almonds 
into  a  mortar,  pound  them  well,  mix  in  the  unwhipped  cream,  and  add  two  or  three 
eggs  beaten  up  with  a  little  sugar.  Put  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  the  preparation  commences  to  thicken.  Add  the  gelatine,  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  pour  the  whole  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  put  in  a  very  small 
amount  of  essence  of  almonds.  Whisk  well  until  the  mixture  thickens,  then  add  the 
whipped  cream,  stir  well,  and  pour  the  cream  into  moulds  packed  on  ice.  When  it  is 
set  and  firm,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve.  Whipped  cream  should  accompany  it. 

Apple   Bavarois. 

Pare  and  cut  into  quarters  some  sweet  apples  and  place  in  a  preserving-pan;  add 
the  juice  of  some  lemons,  a  little  sherry,  some  sugar  and  an  ounce  of  isinglass  dis- 
solved in  a  little  warm  water  and  strained.  Place  over  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  the 
contents  occasionally  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Stew  until  the  apples  are  quite  tender, 
and  then  rub  through  a  tammy-sieve  into  a  basin.  Place  this  upon  ice  and  stir  slowly 
until  at  the  point  of  setting,  when  some  whipped  cream  must  be  stirred  in,  and  the 
whole  poured  into  a  mould.  Turn  out  when  set,  and  serve.  A  wineglass  of  maraschino 
or  noyeau  adds  considerably  to  the  richness  of  the  flavor. 


Chocolate   Bavarois. 

Take  one  pint  of  cream  and  whip  it  to  a  stiff  froth,  soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in 
one  ounce  of  milk,  scrape  one  ounce  of  chocolate  to  a  powder,  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  put  in  a  small  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water, 
place  on  the  fire  and  stir  until  it  is  quite  smooth  and  glossy.  Boil  another 
cupful  of  milk,  stir  the  chocolate  in,  add  the  gelatine;  then  pass  through  a  strainer  in  a 
basin  and  add  more  sugar  so  that,  with  the  two  tablespoonfuls  used  before,  the  quantity 
will  be  half  a  pound  altogether.  Put  the  basin  in  ice  and  beat  the  mixture  until  it  is 
thick;  then  pour  in  the  cream,  mix  and  put  in  the  mould.  When  hard,  invert  onto  a 
dish  and  pour  more  whipped  cream  over  it. 

653 


654  COLD  DESSERTS. 

Fruit   Bavarois  with   Cream. 

Place  on  ice  a  plain  charlotte  mould  and  decorate  it  inside  with  any  small  fruit 
in  season  at  the  time,  which  dip  into  liquid  jelly  in  order  to  make  them  adhere  to  the 
mould.  Pour  over  a  little  more  of  the  jelly  so  as  to  cover,  but  take  care  not  to  dis- 
turb the  pieces  of  fruit.  When  the  jelly  is  set,  insert  in  the  mould  a  smaller  one, 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  less  in  diameter.  Fill  the  space  between  the  moulds  with 
more  of  the  jelly  and  fruit,  and  when  these  have  set  and  are  quite  firm,  remove  the 
inner  mould  by  pouring  warm  water  on  it.  Fill  the  center  of  the  large  mould  with 
strawberry  or  any  other  kind  of  cream,  and  let  it  remain  until  set.  Turn  the  bavarois 
out  of  the  mold  onto  a  dish,  loosening  it  by  dampening  the  mould  with  a  hot  cloth. 
Decorate  the  top  with  diamond-shaped  pieces  of  angelica  about  an  inch  in  length, 
and  in  the  center  of  these  pile  a  little  whipped  cream,  sprinkle  over  with  finely- 
shredded  pistachio  kernels,  color  a  little  more  of  the  cream  with  a  few  drops  of  cochi- 
neal, take  it  up  in  small  quantities  and  garnish  the  dish  with  it,  and  serve. 

Strawberry    Bavarois. 

Take  one  quart  of  freshly-picked,  thoroughly  ripe  strawberries,  mash  with  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  finely-powdered  white  sugar  and  pass  through  a  rather  fine  sieve. 
Put  this  puree  into  a  china  basin  until  wanted.  Now  dissolve  one  and  one-half 
ounces  of  fine  isinglass  in  a  pan  with  a  tumbler  of  warm  water,  add  one-half  pound  of 
fine  sugar,  and  when  this  is  all  dissolved  add  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  twenty  drops 
or  so  of  essence  of  lemon.  Pass  through  a  sieve  and  keep  on  stirring  it  as  it  gets 
cold,  adding  the  puree  of  strawberries  by  degrees.  Place  it  on  the  ice  and  as  it 
thickens  mix  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  Pour  it  into  a  large-sized 
dome-shaped  mould  previously  packed  in  ice.  Cut  a  slice  of  Genoa-cake  one  inch 
thick,  the  shape  of  the  dish,  and  cover  it  smoothly  with  vanilla-flavored  icing.  Set 
this  and  turn  out  the  bavarois  onto  an  ice-cold  dish,  taking  care  to  place  it  exactly  in 
the  center.  Ornament  with  large  strawberry  and  angelica  leaves  on  the  top,  and 
place  strawberries  with  angelica  leaves  round  the  base  of  the  dome. 

Chocolate    Blanc-Mange   with   Cream. 

Soak  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  for  four  hours. 
Warm  one  quart  of  milk,  stir  in  the  gelatine  and  half  a  pound  of  sugar;  let  it  get  hot 
and,  when  quite  melted,  strain;  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate,  stir 
continually  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  When  nearly  cold  beat  it  with  an  egg-whisk 
for  ten  minutes;  flavor  to  taste  with  vanilla  and  whisk  until  it  begins  to  thicken. 
Then  pour  it  into  a  cylinder-mould  that  has  been  wetted  with  cold  water.  Let  it 
stand  all  night,  then  unmould  and  fill  in  the  cavity  with  whipped  cream. 


COLD  DESSERTS.  655 

Citron   Blanc-Mange. 

Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  place  them  in  a  large  mortar  and  pound 
them  to  a  paste;  to  this  paste  add  by  degrees  four  or  five  tumblerfuls  of  water,  mixing 
with  the  pestle.  When  well  mixed  strain  it  through  a  cloth,  squeezing  it  well  to  get 
all  the  milk  of  almonds  from  the  paste.  Divide  this  milk  of  almonds  into  two  equal 
parts.  Grate  the  rind  of  a  lemon  on  a  quantity  of  lump-sugar,  and  continue  until  six 
ounces  of  sugar  have  been  used,  dissolving  this  sugar  in  one-half  of  the  milk  of 
almonds.  In  the  remaining  half  of  the  milk  of  almonds  dissolve  six  ounces  of  plain 
plain  lump-sugar.  Put  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  isingslass  to  soak  in  just  enough 
cold  water  to  cover  it.  When  the  sugar  is  thoroughly  melted,  strain  each  half  of  the 
milk  of  almonds,  and  when  it  is  quite  dissolved  place  a  mould  in  ice  and  pour  in 
white  blanc-mange  to  the  depth  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch;  let  that  set,  and  then 
pour  in  the  same  quantity  of  the  other  half,  which  ought  to  be  a  clear  yellow;  allow 
that  to  set  also,  and  then  pour  in  some  more  white,  and  so  proceed,  pouring  in  alter- 
nately white  and  yellow  until  the  mould  is  full;  unmould  to  serve  after  it  has  set 
thoroughly  on  ice. 

Quince   Blanc-Mange. 

Peel  and  core  two  pounds  or  so  of  quinces,  put  them  into  preserving-pans  with 
one  quart  of  water  each,  and  keep  them  simmering  gently  until  broken  but  not  reduced 
to  a  pulp.  Strain  the  liquor  through  a  jelly-bag  into  a  pan,  and  put  in  one  ounce  and  a  half 
of  gelatine  and  twelve  ounces  of  fine  sugar.  Stir  the  mixture  gently  over  a  brisk  fire, 
and  boil  it  until  it  leaves  the  spoon  when  drawn  from  the  pan.  Skim  carefully, 
remove  all  the  scum,  then  pour  into  a  basin,  and  stir  in  with  it  one-half  pint  of  thick 
cream  until  nearly  cold,  rinse  the  mould  out  with  cold  water,  pour  in  the  blanc-mange, 
and  leave  it  until  quite  cold  and  set.  It  should  be  made  with  ripe  quinces  only. 
When  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  blanc-mange  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  fancy  dish. 

Strawberry   Blanc-Mange. 

Pick  the  tops  from  one  quart  of  ripe  strawberries,  place  the  fruit  in  a  basin  and 
crush  it  with  a  wooden  spoon,  sprinkling  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
over  it  at  the  same  time.  Allow  the  strawberries  to  stand  for  a  few  hours.  Put  one- 
fourth  pound  of  sugar  and  two  ounces  of  isinglass  in  a  lined  saucepan  with  one  pint 
of  milk,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  the  isinglass  is  dissolved.  Strain  the  milk 
through  muslin,  mix  with  it  one  and  one-fourth  pint  of  cream,  and  stir  the  whole 
until  cold.  Pour  the  cream  and  milk  over  the  strawberries,  beating  them  at  the  same 
time;  then  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon  gradually  in  order  to  prevent  curdling. 
Turn  the  above  mixture  into  an  ornamental  mould,  pack  it  in  ice,  and  leave  it  until 
set.  Turn  the  blanc-mange  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  fancy  dish,  and  serve. 


656  COLD  DESSERTS. 


Blanc-Mange,   Waldorf  Style. 


Carefully  blanch  about  six  ounces  of  sweet  and  two  ounces  of  bitter  almonds; 
place  in  a  vessel  and  cover  them  with  cold  water,  letting  them  soak  for  fully  an  hour; 
drain  through  a  sieve  and  pound  thoroughly  in  a  mortar,  adding  gradually  a  very 
little  cold  water,  and  continue  pounding  for  ten  minutes.  Then  remove  to  a  vessel, 
adding  two  gills  of  lukewarm  water,  and  mix  for  two  minutes  with  the  spatula.  Spread 
over  another  vessel  a  large  napkin,  pour  above  preparation  in  and  lift  the  four  corners, 
and  squeeze  the  liquor  through  the  napkin,  and  place  the  almond  milk  one  side  for 
future  use  Place  in  a  saucepan  a  little  cold  water,  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of 
gelatine,  a  piece  of  vanilla  bean  two  inches  long  and  split  in  halves,  add  about  four 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar.  Mix  this  well  with  the  spatula  for  a  couple  of  minutes, 
then  put  on  the  lid,  and  let  the  contents  infuse  for  thirty  minutes;  place  the  pan  upon 
a  hot  stove,  stirring  gently  from  the  bottom,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  four  or  five 
minutes;  take  it  from  the  fire  and  set  one  side  for  three  minutes,  then  pour  in  the 
almond  milk,  and  mix  again  for  two  minutes  or  so,  using  the  spatula,  and  strain  the 
whole  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve  into  another  vessel.  Have  a  three-pint  fluted 
blanc-mange  mould  in  readiness,  and  put  some  broken  ice  at  the  bottom  of  a  pail, 
place  the  mould  upon  the  ice,  arranging  the  ice  around  the  sides  of  the  mould  until  it 
is  sunk  into  the  ice  up  to  the  edge;  stir  the  preparation  for  one  minute,  and  then  pour 
into  the  mould,  cover  the  pail  with  a  napkin,  and  leave  it  to  become  frozen.  Then 
carefully  remove  the  pail,  wipe  off  the  ice  with  a  towel,  and  have  ready  a  cold  dessert- 
dish,  with  a  folded  napkin  ovet  it,  and  turn  the  blanc-mange  onto  this,  decorate  with 
candied  cherries  and  angelica,  and  serve. 


Chantilly   Charlotte. 


Line  a  dome-shaped  mould  with  lady's-finger  biscuits,  arranging  them  artisti- 
cally according  to  taste;  put  into  a  basin  one  pint  or  more  of  thick  cream,  and  whisk 
it  with  an  egg-beater  until  it  is  formed  into  a  stiff  froth.  For  one  pint  of  cream,  add 
gradually  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  one-half  ounce  of  soaked  gelatine. 
Flavor  the  cream  with  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  violets;  pour  it  carefully  into  the 
mould  with  the  biscuits,  and  pack  the  mould  in  salt  and  pounded  ice  for  an  hour  or 
two.  When  it  is  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  carefully  out  on  a 
fancy  dish,  and  serve. 

French    Charlotte. 

Remove  the  center  from  an  almond  sponge-cake,  leaving  the  bottom  and  sides 
about  one  inch  in  thickness.  Place  in  a  basin  with  some  sherry  about  one-half  pound 
of  macaroons,  and  allow  them  to  soak  well.  Whip  to  a  stiff  froth  one  pint  of  cream. 
Put  the  soaked  macaroons  at  the  bottom  of  a  sponge-cake  mould,  then  spread  a  thick 


COLD  DESSERTS.  657 

layer  of  preserve  over  them  and  fill  it  up  with  the  cream,  piling  it  high  in  the  center. 
Ornament  the  edge  and  middle  with  icing  by  squeezing  it  through  a  cornet.  Stand 
the  charlotte  in  a  glass  dish  until  required. 

Fruit   Charlotte. 

Line  a  charlotte-mould  with  sweetened  short  paste,  mask  the  paste  all  round  the 
inside  with  paper,  fill  it  with  flour,  and  bake;  when  done  take  it  out  of  the  oven,  turn 
out  the  flour,  remove  the  paper,  turn  the  paste  out  of  the  mould,  spread  a  layer  of 
apricot  marmalade  inside  it  and  put  it  back  into  the  mould.  Prepare  a  coarse  salpi- 
con  with  some  preserved  fruits  and  let  them  soak  in  maraschino  for  three  hours.  Boil 
a  stick  of  vanilla  and  seven  ounces  of  sugar  with  one  pint  of  milk  and  beat  in  the 
yolks  of  seven  eggs.  Strain  this  cream  and  when  it  is  cool  freeze  it  in  a  freezer; 
when  frozen  mix  in  gradually  three  tablespoonfuls  of  maraschino  and  six  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  whipped  and  sweetened  cream.  Drain  the  fruits  and  fill  the  charlotte-mould 
with  alternate  layers  of  the  fruits  and  cream.  Shut  the  mould,  lute  its  junctures  with 
paste  and  pack  it  in  salted  ice  for  two  hours.  When  ready,  turn  it  out  onto  a  fancy 
dish,  mask  it  all  over  with  apricot  marmalade,  ornament  the  top  with  a  variety  of  dif- 
ferent-colored preserved  fruits,  and  serve. 

Orange   Charlotte. 

Line  a  charlotte-mould  with  sections  of  oranges.  Put  one-third  ounce  of  gela- 
tine into  a  basin  with  a  little  less  than  a  teacupful  of  water,  let  it  soak  until  soft,  then 
pour  over  about  the  same  quantity  of  boiling  water  and  add  eight  ounces  of  sugar  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  another  basin  and  add  the  pulp 
and  juice  of  sufficient  oranges  to  make  one-half  pint  of  it;  add  a  little  of  the  grated 
rind  of  an  orange  and  pack  the  basin  in  ice  to  cool.  Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs 
to  a  stiff  froth  and  when  the  orange  mixture  begins  to  thicken  add  them  and  beat 
until  it  is  thick  enough  to  drop  from  the  whisk.  Pour  it  into  the  mould,  pack  it  in 
ice,  and  when  set  and  firm  pour  it  out  onto  a  glass  dish,  garnish  round  with  crystal- 
ized  orange  flowers,  and  serve. 

Raspberry   Charlotte. 

Take  two  pounds  of  ripe  raspberries,  remove  the  hulls,  see  that  there  are  no  in- 
sects in  the  hollows  of  the  berries,  and  have  in  readiness  also  one  pound  of  dry  bread- 
crumbs. Then  butter  a  pudding  dish  and  cover  the  bottom  with  a  layer  of  the  dry 
breadcrumbs;  on  the  top  of  this  place  a  layer  of  raspberries,  sprinkle  plenty  of  sugar 
over  them,  add  another  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  then  a  layer  of  raspberries  sprinkled 
with  sugar,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  filled;  let  the  last  layer  be  breadcrumbs.  On 
top  of  this  last  layer  put  bits  of  butter.  Place  a  plate  or  cover  over  it  and  bake  for 
about  thirty  minutes.  Remove  the  plate  or  cover  a  few  minutes  before  serving  and 
let  it  brown.  Serve  cream  with  it. 


658  COLD  DESSERTS. 

Charlotte   Russe. 

Thoroughly  soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  one  teacupful  of  milk.  Beat  together 
the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  and  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar  together,  and  place  in  a 
double-boiler  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk;  mix  until  the  whole  begins  to  thicken, 
then  add  the  gelatine,  and  strain  into  a  large  tin  basin.  Place  this  in  a  pan  of  ice, 
and  when  it  begins  to  cool  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  one  tablespoonful 
of  vanilla  extract,  half  a  tumblerful  of  sherry,  and  one  pint  of  whipped  cream.  Stir 
well,  and  pour  into  the  moulds  that  have  been  lined  with  sponge-cake,  aud  set  them 
away  to  harden.  With  the  quantities  given  two  quart-moulds  can  be  filled.  The 
lining  may  be  one  piece  of  sponge-cake  hollowed  out,  or  strips  of  the  same,  or  lady's 
fingers.  If  desired  the  wine  may  be  omitted.  Charlotte  Russe  may  be  filled  with 
any  kind  of  cream. 

Burnt  Almond   Charlotte   Russe. 

I  1  ii  i  y-,1 

Line  a  plain  mould  with  finger  biscuits  as  for  other  charlottes.  Chop  up  fine  a 
nurriber  of  the  best  almonds  and  brown  them  by  boiling  in  an  equal  amount  of  sugar; 
cool  them  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  pound  them  thoroughly  in  a  mortar,  adding  some 
cold  milk;  while  stirring  in  a  pan  on  the  fire,  press  through  a  tammy  cloth.  Steep  a 
small  quantity  of  isinglass  in  a  little  tepid  water.  Put  the  almonds  into  a  stewpan, 
with  eight  beaten  eggs  to  each  quarter  of  a  pound  of  nuts  used,  and  a  little  finely- 
powdered  sugar,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens;  pour  into  a  kitchen  basin,  and 
stir  in  the  solution  of  isinglass,  strain  and  pack  the  basin  in  broken  ice,  and  stir  the 
mixture  slowly  until  it  begins  to  freeze.  As  soon  as  it  begins  to  coagulate,  pour  it 
carefully  into  a  biscuit-lined  mould,  and  cover  with  a  thin  sheet  of  tin,  with  ice  piled 
on  it,  leave  it  thus  for  an  hour  or  so  longer  or  till  wanted,  turn  into  a  glass  dish,  and 
serve  with  crystallized  fruits. 

Charlotte   Russe  with   Coffee. 

Thoroughly  clean  and  line  eight  small  charlotte-russe  moulds  with  lady's-finger 
cakes,  cut  in  halves;  and  if  they  should  be  higher  than  the  moulds,  trim  them  off  at 
the  edge.  Add  to  one  pint  of  vanilla  cream  two  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee  essence; 
beat  all  together  well  for  two  minutes,  and  fill  the  moulds  with  the  mixture.  Turn 
them  out  onto  eight  dessert-plates,  spread  a  little  more  cream  on  the  top,  and  cover 
each  with  one  macaroon.  Dress  the  remainder  of  the  cream  around  the  plates,  and 
serve. 

Chartreuse   of  Oranges. 

Two  plain  moulds  will  be  required,  one  of  which  should  be  about  one  and  one- 
half  inches  larger  in  diameter  than  the  other.  Make  some  orange  jelly  and  pour  a 
layer  of  it  in  the  larger  mould,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  oranges  divided  into  quarters, 


COLD  DESSERTS.  659 

and  freed  of  all  skin  and  pips;  pour  over  these  another  layer  of  jelly,  and  stand 
the  mould  on  ice.  When  the  jelly  is  quite  firm,  put  in  the  smaller  mould,  placing  it 
exactly  in  the  center,  so  that  the  space  all  round  will  be  the  same.  Next  fill  up  the 
space  between  the  moulds  with  quarters  of  oranges,  prepared  as  above,  and  liquid 
orange  jelly,  and  set  the  mould  on  ice.  Dissolve  one-half  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a 
small  quantity  of  milk,  then  mix  it  with  three  gills  of  cream.  Sweeten  it  with  orange 
syrup,  adding  this  latter  ingredient  in  very  small  quantities  and  whipping  the  cream 
well  at  the  same  time.  When  the  jelly  has  set,  pour  warm  water  in  the  smaller  mould 
to  loosen  it,  then  lift  it  out  carefully,  fill  the  h'ollow  space  with  the  whipped  cream, 
and  stand  the  whole  on  ice  for  an  hour  longer.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  large 
mould  containing  the  chartreuse  in  warm  water,  then  turn  its  contents  quickly  onto  a 
dish.  This  dish  can  be  made  to  look  very  pretty  and  effective  if  a  little  care  and 
judgment  be  exercised  in  its  manufacture ;  the  flavor  is  excellent 

Strawberry   Chartreuse. 

Pick  off  the  tops  of  two  pounds  of  ripe  strawberries,  and  cut  them  into  halves 
lengthwise.  Prepare  one  quart  of  calf's  foot  jelly,  flavor  it  with  lemon,  and  leave  it 
until  slightly  cooled.  Pour  a  thin  layer  of  the  jelly  in  the  bottom  of  a  large  mould, 
and  then  arrange  a  layer  of  the  strawberries  on  top,  cover  them  with  a  little  jelly  and 
leave  till  set.  When  the  jelly  in  the  large  mould  is  quite  firm,  stand  a  smaller  mould 
inside.  Fill  the  space  between  the  moulds  with  strawberries,  filling  up  the  cavities 
with  jelly,  then  set  the  mould  on  the  ice.  Dissolve  one-half  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a 
little  water,  then  mix  with  it  one-half  pint  of  strawberry  juice  and  sweeten  to  taste 
with  powdered  sugar.  Whisk  one  pint  of  cream  to  a  froth,  stir  it  in  by  degrees  with 
the  strawberry  juice.  When  the  jelly  has  set,  pour  a  little  warm  water  in  the  smallest 
mould  to  loosen  it,  then  take  it  carefully  out  of  the  large  one.  Fill  the  hollow  with 
the  cream,  and  leave  the  mould  in  ice  till  the  cream  has  set.  When  ready  to  serve, 
dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water,  wipe  it,  and  turn  the  chartreuse  out  onto  a  fancy  dish. 

Sugared   Chestnuts. 

Roast  some  chestnuts  and  peel  off  the  skins.  Have  some  reeds  cut  into  pieces 
some  three  inches  long,  and  put  a  chestnut  on  the  point  of  each  of  these.  Take  a 
piece  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  nut  and  rub  with  the  hand  on  a  piece  of  marble, 
and  be  sure  to  rub  the  butter  all  over  it.  Boil  some  sugar  to  caramel,  and  when  it  is 
at  this  degree  take  a  wood  splint,  with  a  chestnut  on  the  end  of  it,  and  dip  them  in 
the  caramel.  When  all  the  chestnuts  are  done  and  are  cold,  take  out  the  bits  of 
osier,  and  wrap  each  chestnut  in  paper. 

Compote  of  Apples. 

Peel  and  core  some  apples,  boil  them  in  a  light  syrup  with  the  rind  of  lemon 
pared  very  thin,  and  a  few  cloves.  When  done,  remove  the  peel  and  cloves  and  allow 


660  COLD  DESSERTS. 

the  apples  to  get  cold.  Line  a  compote-case  with  tart  paste,  put  a  sheet  of  paper  in 
next  the  paste  and  fill  the  center  with  flour;  set  in  oven  to  bake.  When  done  and 
cold,  remove  the  flour  and  the  paper;  place  boiled  rice  then  in  the  center  and  pile 
the  apples  around  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid;  mask  them  over  with  diluted  apricot 
jam  and  ornament  the  compote  with  preserved  cherries  and  angelica  cut  up  into 
various  shapes,  also  a  few  shredded  almonds.  Care  should  b.e  taken  that  the  case 
suits  the  shape  of  the  dish  it  is  to  be  served  in.  Remove  the  case  and  ornament  the 
pastry  with  icing. 

Compote   of  Cherries. 

Cut  off  the  stems  from  one  pound  of  cherries  to  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
in  length.  Then  put  one-half  pound  of  sugar  in  a  sugar-boiler  and  add  two  quarts 
of  water.  Boil  for  three  minutes;  then  put  in  the  cherries,  place  the  cover  on  the 
boiler  and  boil  for  five  minutes  longer.  Remove  the  cherries,  put  them  on  a  strainer 
and  let  them  drain;  then  place  them  on  a  compote-dish  with  the  stalks  sticking  up. 
Reduce  the  syrup  to  30  degrees,  and  after  it  is  cool,  pour  it  over  the  cherries,  and  serve. 


Take  the  brown  skins  off  about  fifty  chestnuts  and  put  in  boiling  water  till  the 
inner  skin  comes  off  easily;  then  put  in  a  copper  sugar-boiler,  laying  them  flat  on  the 
bottom,  cover  with  a  syrup  at  160  degrees  Fahr.  and  let  simmer  for  thirty  minutes. 
When  done,  strain  the  syrup  and  reduce  to  30  degrees  Fahr.;  before  doing  so,  flavor 
with  the  rind  of  an  orange.  Put  the  chestnuts  in  a  dish  and  strain  the  syrup  over  them. 


Cranberry  Compote. 


Pick  off  the  stems  from  about  one  quart  of  cranberries.  Put  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  crushed  loaf-sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of  water  and 
the  rind  of  a  lemon  thinly  pared;  place  the  saucepan  over  a  moderate  fire  and  let 
the  contents  boil  till  reduced  to  a  thick  syrup.  Put  the  cranberries  in  and  stir  them 
constantly  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  ten  minutes.  At  the  end  of  that 
time,  remove  the  cranberries  from  the  fire,  allow  them  to  become  cold,  then  turn  them 
into  a  compote  dish,  or  any  variety  of  fancy  dish,  dust  caster-sugar  over  them,  and 
serve. 


Compote  of  Red   Currants. 


Put  one  pound  of  ripe  red  currants  into  a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of  caster-sugar. 
Press  the  currants  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  the  sugar  has  partly  dissolved  in 
the  juice,  pour  the  whole  into  a  pan  and  boil  up,  and  turn  into  a  compote  dish  when 
cool.  Leave  it  for  two  hours,  when,  if  it  has  been  properly  prepared,  it  will  set  to  a 
jelly  and  be  ready  for  use. 


COLD  DESSERTS.  661 

Compote   of  Figs. 

Put  in  a  basin  the  required  quantity  of  figs  with  the  juice  and  peel  of  one  or  two 
lemons;  pour  over  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  and  leave  until  cold.  For  every 
two  pounds  of  fruit,  put  in  a  preserving-pan  half  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  one 
pint  of  water,  boil  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  drain  the  figs  and  put  them  in  the 
syrup  with  one  thinly-sliced  lemon  without  seeds,  and  simmer  gently  until  tender. 
Leave  the  figs  in  the  syrup  until  cold,  then  group  them  in  the  center  of  a  glass  dish, 
pour  the  syrup  over,  and  serve. 

Compote   of  Fruits  with   Iced    Champagne. 

Select  two  fine  cooking-pears,  peel,  core  and  cut  in  quarters,  and  put  them  in  a 
sugar-boiler  with  syrup  at  sixteen  degrees  and  sufficient  prepared  cochineal  to  make 
the  pears  a  good  pink;  then  take  two  large  cooking-apples,  peel,  core  and  cut  in 
quarters  and  put  them  in  a  sugar-boiler  with  syrup  at  sixteen  degrees,  and  cook  some 
stoned  greengages  in  the  same  way;  when  all  the  fruits  are  ready,  put  them  on  a 
wire-sieve  to  drain  until  cold.  Pour  half  a  bottle  of  champagne  in  a  freezer,  together 
with  one  teacupful  of  syrup  at  thirty  degrees,  and  let  it  freeze.  Arrange  the  cold 
fruit  in  a  compote  dish,  pour  over  the  frozen  champagne  and  syrup,  and  serve. 

Compote  of  Greengages. 

Take  about  twenty  large  and  perfectly  sound  greengages,  wipe  and  put  them  in 
a  copper  sugar-boiler  with  half  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  water;  when 
it  has  boiled,  cover  the  pan,  move  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  gently  for  ten 
minutes.  Take  out  the  greengages,  strain  the  syrup,  put  it  back  in  the  sugar-boiler, 
and  reduce  to  thirty  degrees.  Arrange  the  greengages  tastefully  in  a  compote  dish 
and  pour  the  syrup  over  them. 

Compote  of  Green   Gooseberries. 

Take  the  gooseberries,  cut  each  one  at  the  side  so  as  to  squeeze  out  the  seeds, 
and  scald  the  jackets  in  hot  water  until  they  rise  to  the  top.  Take  them  out  and  put 
them  in  salted  cold  water  to  make  them  green.  Place  them  in  clarified  syrup,  and 
simmer,  letting  them  remain  for  some  time  in  this  syrup  to  sweeten  them  well.  When 
they  have  remained  long  enough,  take  them  out,  and  arrange  in  the  compote-dish. 
Let  the  syrup  continue  to  boil  gently  until  thick.  Pour  it  over  the  gooseberries,  and 
serve. 

Compote  of  Grapes. 

Take  a  bunch  or  two  of  fine  grapes,  cut  the  stalks  off,  and  make  a  little  slit  in 
each  and  pick  out  the  stones  with  the  point  of  a  quill.  Boil  some  syrup  to  the  large 


662  COLD  DESSERTS. 

pearl  degree,  put  in  the  grapes  and  boil  them  up  three  or  four  times.  When  cold, 
skim  off  any  scum  that  may  have  risen  to  the  top.  Arrange  the  grapes  in  a  compote- 
dish,  and  serve. 


Compote  of  Hazel   Nuts. 


After  cracking,  carefully  remove  the  kernels  from  some  freshly  gathered  hazel 
nuts;  put  them  on  a  dish,  squeeze  over  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  leave  them 
for  an  hour  or  two.  Drain  the  nuts  free  from  the  juice,  arrange  them  in  a  pyramid 
in  a  compote-dish,  pour  over  thick  syrup  flavored  with  noyeau,  and  serve. 


Compote  of  Lemons. 


Pare  the  lemons  very  thinly,  turning  them  spirally,  make  some  transverse  in- 
cisions upon  them,  and  cut  out  some  fancy  designs.  Place  the  lemons  in  a  saucepan 
with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  and  boil  gently  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Drain  the 
lemons,  put  them  into  a  sugar-boiler  with  some  syrup,  and  let  them  simmer  for  about 
twenty  minutes  longer.  At  the  end  of  that  time  put  the  lemons  into  a  basin  with  the 
syrup,  and  leave  them  for  several  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  arrange  them  in  a 
compote-dish  and  pour  the  syrup  over  them. 

Nectarine   Compote. 

Peel  and  stone  some  nectarines,  cut  them  in  halves  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  some  syrup  at  the  small  thread  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  and  cook  them  until 
quite  tender.  When  cold  they  should  be  served  in  a  compote  dish  and  the  syrup 
poured  over.  A  little  spinach  green  added  to  the  syrup  improves  the  effect. 

Compote   of   Oranges. 

Put  the  thin  peel  of  eight  oranges  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pound  of  sugar  and 
three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  skimming  frequently  as 
the  scum  rises.  Remove  the  white  pith  from  the  oranges,  taking  care  not  to  injure 
the  inner  skin;  pull  them  into  quarters,  add  them  to  the  syrup  and  simmer  gently  for 
six  minutes  longer.  Take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  arrange  in  a  heap  on  a  dish, 
keeping  the  skin-side  downward;  boil  the  syrup  until  quite  thick,  and  when  cold  pour 
it  over  the  oranges,  and  serve. 


Compote   of  Peaches. 


Peel  some  ripe  peaches,  cut  in  halves  and  stone  them,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  thick  syrup  and  let  them  simmer  till  sufficiently  cooked.  Crack 
the  stones,  and  when  the  peaches  are  done  lift  them  carefully  out  of  the  syrup  with  a 
skimmer,  place  them  in  rather  a  deep  dish  and  put  the  kernels  in.  Let  the  kernels 


COLD  DESSERTS.  663 

and  syrup  boil  till  pretty  thick,  add  strained  lemon-juice  to  taste,  mix  in  well  with 
the  syrup  and  then  pour  it  over  the  peaches  in  the  dish.  This  may  be  served  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Compote   of  Peaches   with   Rice. 

Split  nine  peaches  into  halves,  take  out  their  stones  and  plunge  the  peaches  into 
boiling  water  to  loosen  their  skins;  drain,  peel,  put  the  peaches  in  a  basin  and  cover 
them  with  syrup  at  30  degrees.  Wash  one-half  pound  of  rice,  blanch  it  for  eight  or 
nine  minutes,  then  drain  and  refresh  it;  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  warm  milk 
to  cover,  adding  more  milk  as  it  evaporates.  When  the  rice  is  nearly  cooked  put  it 
in  together  with  a  stick  of  vanilla  cut  in  pieces,  and  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of 
granulated  sugar.  Take  the  saucepan  off  the  fire  and  keep  it  covered  for  ten  min- 
utes. Butter  a  border-mould,  mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  the  rice,  and 
put  it  in  the  mould  pressing  it  well  down.  Keep  the  rice  warm  for  ten  minutes,  then 
turn  it  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish,  fill  the  center  with  the  halves  of  the  peaches 
building  them  in  a  pyramid  shape.  Reduce  some  of  the  syrup  with  a  little  apple- 
juice  and  pour  it  over  them.  Blanch  and  peel  some  sweet  almonds,  split  them  into 
halves,  stick  one  on  each  peach,  and  serve  with  the  remainder  of  the  syrup  mixed 
with  a  little  maraschino  in  a  sauceboat. 

Compote  of  Pears. 

Cut  four  large  baking-pears  into  six  pieces  each,  lengthwise,  but  keeping  one 
whole  half  for  the  center  of  the  compote;  pare  and  core  the  pieces  of  pears  and  put 
them  in  a  lined-pan  with  some  16  degrees  syrup,  one  teaspoonful  of  prepared  cochineal 
and  a  little  lemon-peel.  Boil,  drain,  and 'arrange  the  quarters  in  a  compote  dish, 
putting  the  half  pear  on  the  middle.  Boil  the  syrup  till  reduced  to  30  degrees,  pour 
it  over  the  pears  when  cold,  and  serve. 

Compote   of  Pears,    Princess. 

Use  nine  large  pears  as  near  one  size  as  possible.  Scrape  the  stalks,  turn  the 
pears  spirally  from  head  to  stalk,  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  little  syrup 
and  let  them  simmer  till  tender,  but  not  too  soft.  A  little  lemon  juice  squeezed  in 
the  water  will  keep  the  pears  white.  When  done,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire  and 
leave  them  till  cold  in  the  syrup.  Cut  off  the  ends  of  the  pears  so  as  to  leave  about 
one-half  inch  in  diameter  surface  at  the  stalk  end.  Cut  some  rings  of  angelica  the 
same  diameter  as  the  cut  part  of  the  pears  and  put  one  on  each.  Pass  some  straw- 
berries or  cherries  through  hot  syrup,  then  place  one  in  each  of  the  rings.  Cut  some 
strips  of  angelica  and  run  them  through  the  cherry  and  angelica  rings  to  imitate  the 
stalks  of  the  pears.  Arrange  them  in  a  compote  dish,  pour  some  syrup  over  them, 
and  serve. 


664  COLD  DESSERTS. 


Compote   of  Pineapple. 


Peel  a  pineapple  and  cut  it  in  slices  about  one-fourth  inch  the  thickness.  Cut  all 
the  slices  in  halves  with  the  exception  of  the  middle  one  which  should  be  left  whole. 
Put  them  in  a  sugar-boiler  with  some  syrup  at  20  degrees,  and  let  them  simmer  gently 
at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  an  hour.  Put  the  pineapple  into  a  basin,  pour  the  syrup 
over  and  let  it  steep  for  twenty  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  put  the  slices  on  a 
wire-drainer,  strain  the  syrup  through  a  silk-sieve  into  a  sugar-boiler  and  boil  till 
reduced  to  32  degrees.  Arrange  the  half  slices  of  pineapple  in  the  center  of  a 
compote-dish,  put  the  round  slice  on  the  top,  pour  the  syrup  over,  and  serve. 


Compote   of  Plums. 


Cut  the  stalks  off  short  from  the  desired  number  of  plums,  prick  them  all  over 
and  drop  them  into  a  sugar-boiler  of  syrup  simmering  gently  for  five  or  six  minutes, 
then  pour  into  a  basin  the  plums  and  syrup;  place  the  plums  in  a  compote-dish  or 
case  with  their  stalks  upward  arranged  in  good  order,  and  pour  over  them  a  little  of 
the  syrup  flavored  with  noyau,  and  serve. 


Compote  of  Prunes. 


Wash  well  in  a  basin  of  water  one  pound  of  French  plums,  then  remove  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  one  quart  of  water,  an  ounce  of  loaf  sugar  and  a  small 
piece  of  cinnamon,  placing  the  pan  over  the  fire.  When  the  water  boils,  remove  the 
pan  to  one  side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  gently  for  forty-five  minutes;  then  take  out 
the  prunes,  place  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain,  and  afterwards  put  them  into  a  compote- 
dish.  Add  a  couple  of  ounces  of  sugar  to  the  liquor,  and  after  straining  it  put  it 
back  into  the  saucepan  and  reduce  it  to  a  syrup  at  32  degrees,  and  when  it  is  cold 
pour  it  over  the  prunes,  and  serve. 

Raspberry  Compote. 

Put  one  pound  of  raspberries  and  a  small  quantity  of  lemon  juice  into  a  sauce- 
pan, pour  over  sufficient  weak  syrup  to  moisten,  simmer  the  whole  gently  at  the  side 
of  the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes,  remove  the  raspberries,  drain,  place  them  on  a 
dish,  boil  up  the  syrup  to  the  thread  degree,  pour  it  over,  and  serve. 

Compote  of  Strawberries. 

Select  some  fine  ripe  strawberries,  carefully  pick  off  the  stems,  drop  them  one 
by  one  into  some  syrup  boiled  to  22  degrees,  and  allow  them  to  just  simmer;  then 
pour  them  carefully  into  a  basin,  and  leave  until  cold.  Arrange  the  strawberries  in 
the  form  of  an  elevated  cone  in  a  compote-dish,  pour  the  syrup  round,  and  serve 
them. 


COLD   DESSERTS.  665 


Compote  of  Walnuts. 


Split  the  walnuts  through  their  natural  division  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  then 
pass  the  knife  through  the  inner  part  of  the  shell  and  extract  the  interior.  Free  the 
nuts  from  the  white  pith,  and  place  them  in  cold  water  that  has  been  slightly  acidu- 
lated with  lemon-juice.  Drain  the  walnuts,  pile  them  in  a  heap  on  a  compote-dish, 
pour  over  some  syrup  that  has  been  well  flavored  with  noyau,  and  serve. 

Almond   Cream. 

Blanch  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  dry  and  pound  them  well.  Put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  six  ounces  of  loaf-sugar  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  mix 
well  with  a  fork.  In  another  stewpan  have  one  pint  of  milk  into  which  have  been 
placed  one  ounce  of  isinglass ;  boil  slowly  down  to  three-quarters  of  a  pint,  pass 
through  a  tammy,  and  pour  over  the  preparation  in  the  other  stewpan.  Stir  over  the 
fire  until  it  all  thickens,  when  it  may  be  poured  into  the  bowl  prepared  for  it.  Let  it 
remain  until  cool,  stirring  occasionally  to  keep  it  smooth,  and  shortly  afterward  add 
two  wineglassfuls  of  noyeau,  maraschino,  or  curacoa. 


Apple   Cream. 


Pare,  core  and  mince  fine  some  good  cooking-apples,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  a  little  powdered  white  sugar  and  mix  in  a  little  water,  adding 
a  small  quantity  of  beaten  egg.  Add  to  this  a  few  drops  of  lemon  or  orange  essence 
to  flavor.  Stir  smartly  over  a  quick  fire  for  about  ten  minutes.  This  makes  a  nice 
relish  for  tea,  or  a  good  sauce  for  a  batter-pudding. 

Bavarian   Cream. 

This  cream  is  served  cold,  or  it  is  sometimes  used  to  fill  a  charlotte  russe.  To 
one  pint  of  thick  cream  add  sufficient  sugar  to  sweeten  it  and  flavor  with  vanilla  or 
lemon.  Whisk  the  cream  to  a  froth,  which  should  be  removed  as  rapidly  as  it  appears, 
and  put  in  a  glass  dish.  Take  one  and  one-half  tablespoonfuls  of  gelatine,  and  after 
it  has  thoroughly  dissolved  add  it  to. the  froth,  and  mix  for  fifteen  minutes.  Place  it 
on  ice,  or  in  a  very  cool  place  for  a  few  hours,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 


Brandy   Cream. 


Blanch  and  pound  a  couple  of  dozen  of  sweet  and  bitter  almonds,  place  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  little  milk  and  boil;  let  the  mixture  become  cool,  then  add  the  yolks 
of  five  eggs  beaten  up  with  a  little  cream,  a  little  sifted  sugar,  and  pour  in  a  couple 
of  wineglassfuls  of  brandy.  Mix  well  in  a  quart  of  cream,  stirring  well  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  it  is  well  thickened,  then  pour  into  small  glasses  or  cups  and  serve. 


666  COLD   DESSERTS. 

Caramel   Cream. 

Put  a  breakfast  cupful  of  moist  sugar  into  a  sugar-boiling  pan,  hold  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  stir  it  gently,  and  when  it  is  a  dark-brown,  pour  it  onto  the  bottom  of  a  char- 
lotte-mould and  let  it  cool.  Beat  six  or  eight  eggs  in  a  basin  with  three  or  more 
yolks,  add  one  quart  of  milk,  and  beat  again.  Then  add  one  pound  of  caster-sugar 
and  a  little  lemon-peel.  Ten  minutes  later,  pass  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  into  the 
mould  with  the  caramel,  having  previously  buttered  the  mould  round  the  sides.  Place 
the  mould  in  a  stewpan  on  a  trivet,  pour  round  some  hot  water  so  that  it  will  reach 
to  half  the  height  of  the  mould,  let  the  water  boil  up,  and  then  draw  the  stewpan 
back,  or  if  heated  on  a  gas-stove  (which  is  best)  turn  low,  so  that  the  liquid  will  pre- 
serve the  same  degree  of  heat  without  boiling.  Cover  the  stewpan,  place  hot  ashes 
on  its  lid,  and  let  the  preparation  poach  for  at  least  an  hour,  allowing  the  cream  to 
cool  in  the  water.  When  time  to  serve,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  garnish  round 
with  sweet  biscuits  and  crystallized  fruits,  angelica,  or  what  fancy  may  suggest. 

Chateaubriand    Cream. 

Place  a  jelly-mould  on  the  ice,  and  pour  some  liquid  jelly  around  it,  turning  it 
about  sideways  in  order  to  allow  it  to  set;  stick  some  shredded  almonds  round  the 
sides  and  top  until  the  mould  is  covered,  then  put  a  little  more  of  the  jelly  around, 
and,  when  set,  give  it  another  coating.  When  this  has  been  done,  fill  in  the  cavity 
with  noyau  cream. 

Chestnut  Cream. 

Remove  the  dark  skins  from  about  twenty  chestnuts,  parboil  them,  and  rub  the 
light  skins  off,  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Dilute 
one  and  a  half  ounces  of  gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  milk,  blanch  and  bruise  six  sweet 
almonds,  and  add  with  the  thin  rind  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar; 
put  these  into  a  stewpan,  and,  when  the  milk  is  boiling,  move  to  one  side  until  it 
cools,  then  strain  it,  and  stir  in  with  the  chestnut  mixture.  When  it  is  worked  smooth 
add  one  wineglassful  of  dry  curacoa  and  one-half  pint  of  whipped  cream;  pour  it  into 
a  mould  and  place  it  on  ice.  Whip  some  more  cream  and  sugar  to  a  froth,  and  when 
the  chestnut  cream  is  set,  turn  it  out,  and  pour  the  whipped  cream  around. 

Coffee   Cream. 

Boil  together  one  pint  of  milk  and  cream  and  add  a  small  lump  of  sugar  and  a 
pinch  of  salt.  Roast  four  ounces  of  green  coffee-berries  in  a  fryingpan  and  put  the 
beans  while  hot  in  with  the  cream,  place  the  cover  on  the  stewpan  and  let  them  steep 
until  quite  cold.  Beat  in  with  the  cream  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  strain  it  through  a 
cloth  twice,  fill  some  breakfastcups  with  it  and  place  these  in  a  large  stewpan  con- 


COLD    DESSERTS.  667 

taining  enough  water  to  reach  to  half  their  height;  place  the  lid  on  and  a  few  live 
coals  on  top  of  that  and  let  the  water  simmer.  When  the  cream  is  set,  allow  it  to 
get  cold  and  then  turn  it  out  of  the  cups. 

Confectioners'    Cream. 

Into  a  saucepan  pour  one  pint  of  cold  milk  and  set  it  on  the  stove.  In  another 
vessel  mix  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  with  one  ounce  of  wheat  flour  and  one-half 
ounce  of  corn  flour;  break  in  two  whole  eggs  and  whisk  well  for  two  minutes.  When 
the  milk  is  boiling  add  it  to  the  preparation,  and  after  stirring  it  for  one  minute 
longer  put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the  stove.  Beat  thoroughly  until  it  comes 
to  a  boil,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  immediately  one  teaspoonful  of  essence 
of  vanilla.  Stir  well  again  for  another  minute,  then  pour  it  into  a  bowl  and  let  it  get 
cold.  This  mixture  is  used  for  many  confectioners'  purposes. 

Diplomatic   Cream. 

Soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  one  teacupful  of  cold  water.  Pour  one  pint  of 
cream  into  a  saucepan  and  place  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  to  warm  slightly, 
then  whip  it  and  remove  the  froth;  add  enough  milk  to  the  cream  that  is  left  to  make 
one  pint  in  all,  put  in  six  ounces  of  sugar  and  boil  up.  When  it  boils  add  the  gela- 
tine, stirring  rapidly  until  the  latter  dissolves.  Strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin 
in  which  the  whites  of  four  or  five  eggs  have  previously  been  whipped  and  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  essence  of  vanilla  and  one  tablespoonful  of  light  wine.  Stir  well  and 
when  it  begins  to  thicken  add  the  whipped  cream  and,  when  thick  enough  to  drop, 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  mixed  candied  fruit.  Place  in  a  mould,  set  it  on  the  ice,  and 
when  well  set  turn  it  out  and  garnish  with  angelica  leaves,  wine  jelly  or  fruit.  A 
pint  of  blanched  almonds  finely  chopped  may  be  used  instead  of,  or  as  well  as,  the 
candied  fruit. 

Cream    Flavored   with   Cinnamon. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream  into  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  caster- 
sugar  and  add  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon  broken  in  pieces;  place  the  pan  on  the  fire 
and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Meanwhile  beat  up  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth  and  while  the  cream  is  boiling  pour  them  in;  boil  gently  for  a  minute  or  two 
longer,  strain  it  onto  a  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  sugar  over  and  add  a  little  orange-flower 
water;  bake  it  about  two  minutes  to  give  a  light-brown  color,  and  serve. 

Cream   Flavored  with   Coffee. 

Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  four  eggs,  put  the  yolks  in  a  basin  with  four 
ounces  of  caster  sugar,  whip  them  well  and  mix  in  sufficient  strong,  freshly-made 
coffee  to  flavor.  Pour  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  and  place  over  the  fire  until 


668  COLD    DESSERTS. 

it  is  on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  stir  it  in  gradually  with  the  beaten  eggs.  Strain  the 
mixture  through  a  fine  wire-sieve  and  pour  it  into  cream  cups.  Put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  boiling  water  to  three-fourths  their  height,  boil  gently  until  the  cream  is 
firm  with  the  exception  of  a  little  spot  in  the  middle.  When  cold  turn  the  cream  out 
of  the  cups  onto  a  glass  or  fancy  dish,  and  serve. 

Cream   Flavored  with   Lemon. 

Put  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  a  small  lemon  and  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan, 
place  it  over  a  slow  fire  and  boil  for  five  minutes.  Put  five  tablespoonfuls  of  caster- 
sugar  into  a  basin  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  beat  them  well,  then  stir  in  gradu- 
ally the  boiling  milk,  taking  out  the  lemon  peel.  Pour  the  cream  into  small  cups, 
stand  them  in  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  half  their  height  and  let  them  simmer 
gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  If  the  hot  water  comes  above  half 
of  the  cups  it  is  apt  to  enter  them  and  spoil  the  cream.  Leave  the  cream  until  cold, 
then  turn  it  out  of  the  cups  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Cream    Flawn. 

Put  four  eggs  into  a  basin  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  mix  well  and  stir  in  one  pint  of  milk.  Strain  this  through  a  sieve  into 
a  saucepan,  adding  a  lump  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
chopped  almonds.  Place  it  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  it  becomes  thick.  Let  it  boil 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
sugar  and  three  ounces  of  butter.  Butter  well  a  flawn-mould,  line  it  with  a  little 
short  paste  and  pour  in  the  cream  mixture,  which  must  be  cool;  mask  it  first  with 
orange  marmalade  and  then  with  some  sugar  icing;  or  it  may  be  masked  with  a  mer- 
ingue, when  the  surface  should  be  decorated  and  the  meringue  dusted  over  with  pow- 
dered caster-sugar  ;  put  in  the  oven  to  color  slightly. 


Floating  Islands  of  Cream. 


Put  one  teacupful  of  jelly  or  jam  into  a  basin  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and 
beat  them  well.  Whip  one  pint  of  cream  and  when  well  frothed  turn  it  into  an  oval 
or  round-shaped  dish.  With  a  tablespoon  drop  the  jelly  about  on  the  cream.  It  is 
then  ready  to  be  served. 

Cream   for   Fruit   Pies. 

.  Put  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  stewpan  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon. Meanwhile  take  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  whisk  them  well  with  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan.  Place 
the  pan  containing  the  milk  on  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer,  and  just  as  it  boils  add 


COLD    DESSERTS.  669 

it  gradually  to  the  eggs,  putting  the  pan  containing  them  over  the  fire  and  whisking 
until  of  the  consistence  of  cream,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  as  it  gets  a  little  cool, 
put  in  one  tablespoonful  of  orange  or  rose-flower  water.  Let  it  become  quite  cold. 
Remove  the  crust  from  a  fruit-pie  and  pour  in  the  cream,  replacing  the  crust.  Some 
cooks  cut  it  into  quarters,  though  this  is  not  necessary.  Great  care  should  always 
be  taken  not  to  let  the  cream  boil,  as  it  quickly  curdles. 

Ginger   Cream. 

Put  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  teacupful  of  boiling  milk  and  let 
it  soak.  Take  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  preserved  ginger  and  cut  it  up  very  small. 
Put  a  half-pint  of  double  cream  in  a  basin,  whip  it  until  it  is  stiff,  add  two  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  little  at  a  time,  then  a  tablespoonful  of  syrup  of  ginger,  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  ginger.  Mix  thoroughly  and  then  add  the  milk 
and  gelatine,  and  lastly  the  preserved  ginger.  When  cool,  put  it  into  a  rock-shaped 
mould  on  the  ice  to  set. 

Gooseberry   Cream. 

Take  two  pounds  of  green  gooseberries,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  water  and  boil  them  until  they  will  easily  mash;  strain  the  juice  through  a  fine 
sieve  and  weigh  it;  add  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit,  return  to 
the  pan  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes  longer.  Put  one  ounce  of  isinglass  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  dissolved,  but  not 
allowing  it  to  boil,  and  then  let  the  cream  cool,  stirring  constantly.  Let  the  goose- 
berry syrup  get  nearly  cold,  add  the  cream  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  turn  it  into  a 
mould  and  set  it  on  the  ice.  This  cream  should  be  made  at  least  twenty  hours  be- 
fore needed  for  use. 

Cream  Jelly  with    Fruit. 

Soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  one-half  pint  of  milk  for  four  or  five  hours. 
Then  scald  one  and  a  half  pints  of  milk  and  pour  over  it,  adding  at  the  same  time 
one-half  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  it  is  nearly  boiling, 
then  strain  and  divide  into  two  equal  parts.  Put  one-half  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire 
and  mix  in  with  it  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs;  stir  it  until  it  begins  to  thicken, 
then  pour  it  into  a  basin  and  let  it  cool.  Whisk  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth 
and  also  beat  up  one  pint  of  rich  cream  to  a  stiff  froth.  Divide  the  frothed  white  of 
egg  into  two  separate  parts,  or  heaps.  As  the  white  gelatine  begins  to  set,  whip 
into  it  gradually  one-half  of  the  white  of  egg  froth  in  small  quantities,  alternating 
with  all  the  whipped  cream.  Into  the  yellow  gelatine,  whip  in  gradually  a  little  at 
the  time,  the  other  half  of  the  frothed  white  of  egg.  Then  stir  into  the  yellow  gela- 
tine a  flavoring  of  vanilla,  and  into  the  white  gelatine  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon. 


670  COLD    DESSERTS. 

Dampen  the  inside  of  a  deep  fluted  mould  with  cold  water,  lay  in  the  bottom  of  it  a 
row  of  crystallized  cherries,  then  pour  in  a  layer  of  the  white  gelatine;  allow  it  to  set 
and  then  put  over  it  a  layer  of  slices  of  crystallized  apricots  or  peaches,  pour  over 
them  a  layer  of  the  yellow  gelatine,  and  alternating  in  this  way  until  the  mould  is 
full.  Set  the  mould  on  ice,  and  when  quite  firm,  dip  a  cloth  in  hot  water,  wring 
it  out,  wrap  it  round  the  mould  for  an  instant  and  turn  it  out  on  a  glass  dish. 
Serve  cream  with  it. 

Lemon    Cream. 

Beat  well  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  add  to  them  one  pint  of  thick  cream,  one-fourth 
pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon;  turn  all  into  a  suacepan,  boil 
up  once,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  stir  until  cold.  Squeeze  the  juice  of  a  lemon  onto 
a  dish,  pour  over  the  cream,  and  -serve. 

Neapolitan   Cream. 

Stir  together  in  a  basin  one  tablespoonful  each  of  flour  and  custard  powder  with 
one  teacupful  of  milk  ;  when  smooth  turn  it  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  fresh 
fruit  juice,  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  boil  Wtil  thickened, 
sweetening  to  the  taste  with  caster-sugar.  Move  the  cream  to  the  side  of  the  fire 
and  stir  in  quickly  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs;  whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and 
stir  them  lightly  in.  Pour  the  cream  into  a  china  bowl,  and  serve. 

Noyau    Cream. 

Blanch  about  one-fourth  pound  of  Jordan,  and  one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds, 
throw  them  into  cold  water  ;  rinse  them  well  and  pound  in  a  mortar  with  two  ounces 
of  sugar  and  one  gill  of  cream.  Mix  well  together  and  rub  through  a  hair-sieve  into 
a  basin,  add  one  pint  of  whipped  cream  flavored  with  noyau,  and  one  ounce  of  dis- 
solved isinglass,  sweeten  to  taste,  mix  well  together  and  pour  into  a  mould.  When 
set  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Cream   Paste    Flavored  with   Coffee. 

Roast  six  ounces  of  coffee,  when  it  becomes  oily  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk,  cover  over  the  pan,  let  it  stand  until  nearly 
cold,  and  strain  through  a  cloth.  A  small  quantity  of  this  should  now  be  mixed  with 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  a  little  salt  in  it,  the  whole 
put  into  a  saucepan,  and  boiled  slowly  until  it  is  such  a  consistence  that  it  adheres  to 
the  spoon  while  being  cooked.  Add  three  ounces  of  butter  slightly  colored  in  a 
saucepan,  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  and  the  same  quantity  of  powdered 
macaroons,  stirring  the  whole  until  smooth  and  compact. 


COLD    DESSERTS.  671 

Cream    Paste   Flavored  with   Lemon. 

Prepare  a  paste  in  a  saucepan  with  the  yolks  of  six  or  seven  eggs  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  in  gradually  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  boiling  cream  and  a 
little  salt,  stirring  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  mixture  sticks 
to  the  spoon,  take  it  from  the  fire  and  work  it  for  three  minutes,  or  until  it  is  per- 
fectly smooth,  then  stir  over  the  fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes  longer.  Place  two 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  melt  it  and  let  it  color  slightly,  and  mix  this  in  with 
the  cream.  Rub  four  ounces  of  sugar  on  half  a  rind  of  lemon,  scrape  it  into  the 
saucepan  containing  the  cream,  .and  work  in  four  ounces  of  powdered  sweet  maca- 
roons with  a  few  bitter  ones,  and  stir  thoroughly  until  the  cream  is  stiff.  Should  it 
be  too  thick  add  a  little  more  cream,  and  if  the  reverse,  add  the  yolks  of  one  or  two 
more  eggs. 

Pastry   Cream. 

Put  one  pint  of  cream  and  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire, 
stirring  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  after  it  has  boiled  up  put  in  two  ounces 
of  sugar,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  and  a  little  salt,  and  let  it  remain  until  the  peel  is 
infused  in  the  cream.  Add  the  yolks  of  eight  or  nine  eggs  and  beat  up,  keeping  the 
pan  over  the  fire.  When  the  cream  is  of  a  good  consistence  pass  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  rubbing  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  into  a  basin,  where  it  may  be  kept  until  required 
for  use.  If  the  cream  is  liked  very  thick,  more  eggs  may  be  added. 

Peach    Cream. 

Peel  twelve  ripe  peaches  and  remove  the  stones.  Put  the  peaches  in  a  preserving- 
pan  with  eight  ounces  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  one-half  pint  of  cold  water.  Boil  the 
fruit  gently  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  is  dissolved,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve. 
Mix  with  the  pulp  one  pint  of  whipped  cream  and  one  ounce  of  dissolved  gelatine, 
color  it  with  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  and  mix  it  well.  Wet  a  fancy  mould  with  cold 
water,  pour  in  the  preparation,  and  leave  it  till  firm.  When  ready  to  serve,  turn  it 
out  onto  a  glass  dish. 

Pineapple   Cream. 

Place  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  quantity  of  water  one  ounce  of  gelatine,  and  put 
over  the  fire  until  it  is  quite  dissolved.  Rub  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  half  a  teacupful 
of  pineapple  jam,  and  stir  it  in  with  the  gelatine,  adding  four  heaped  teaspoonfuls  of 
caster-sugar;  stir  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  boiling,  and  then  skim  it 
well  and  turn  it  into  a  basin.  A  pint  of  thick  cream  should  now  be  whisked  to  stiff 
snow,  and  when  the  pineapple  mixture  has  become  nearly  cold,  stir  the  two  together, 
beating  them  well.  Rinse  a  mould  out  with  cold  water,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  it, 
setting  it  on  the  ice;  when  cold  and  firm,  remove  from  the  mould,  and  place  on  a 
glass  dish,  and  serve. 


672  COLD    DESSERTS. 

Pistachio  Cream. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  well  blanched  pistachio  nuts  into  a  mortar  and  pound  them 
to  a  paste,  adding  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water  to  prevent  their  oiling.  When 
a  smooth  paste  is  formed,  place  it  in  a  lined  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  cream  and 
half  an  ounce  of  gelatine,  sweetening  to  taste  with  caster-sugar.  Stir  this  over  a  fire 
until  the  gelatine  has  become  dissolved,  then  remove.  Serve  cold  in  jelly-glasses. 

Cream    Plombiere  with   Bananas. 

Peel  some  ripe  bananas,  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin.  Mix 
with  the  fruit  puree  about  one  and  one-half  pints  of  thick  vanilla  cream,  then  pass  the 
whole  once  more  through  the  fine  hair-sieve.  Turn  the  cream  into  a  freezer  and 
leave  it  until  thickened,  whisk  one  pint  of  cream  with  sugar  to  taste,  mix  it  with  the 
frozen  cream  and  add  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira.  Arrange  the  cream,  rock-shape, 
on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Raspberry  Cream. 

Pass  one  quart  of  raspberries  through  a  fine  sieve  to  remove  the  seeds;  mix  in 
well  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream  and  sufficient  sugar  to  sweeten.  Put  all  into  a 
stone  or  earthenware  bowl,  whisk  well,  and  as  the  froth  rises  skim  it  off  with  a  spoon 
and  put  it  on  a  hair-sieve.  Put  the  cream  that  may  be  left  in  the  bowl  into  a  deep 
glass  dish,  pile  the  whipped  cream  on  the  top,  mounting  it  up  as  high  as  possible, 
decorate  with  a  flower  in  the  center,  and  serve. 

Roman   Cream. 

Put  five  ounces  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  milk,  a  small  piece  of 
cinnamon,  and  one  ounce  of  gelatine,  and  place  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire;  allow  the 
gelatine  to  dissolve,  and  then  whisk  it  well.  Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  up  till  they 
are  light,  as  for  custard,  and  put  them  into  the  saucepan,  though  do  not  let  the  mix- 
ture boil.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  freezer,  and  when  nearly  cold  whip  to  a 
froth,  and  add  one  teacupful  of  curacoa  or  one  wineglassful  of  wine.  Turn  the  cream 
out  into  glasses,  and  keep  them  on  the  ice  until  they  are  wanted. 


Royal   Cream. 


Put  one  quart  of  milk  into  a  basin  with  one-half  an  ounce  of  gelatine  and  let  it 
stand  for  half  an  hour;  then  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  up  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  stir  well;  also  a  little  flavoring  of  vanilla.  Put  the  basin  into 
a  pan  of  hot  water  on  the  fire  and  stir  constantly  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Beat 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  add  to  the  basin  immediately  after  it  is 


COLD    DESSERTS.  673 

removed  from  the  hot  water;  stir  well  once  more,  pour  the  mixture   into  moulds  and 
place  them  one  side  to  harden.     Turn  them  out  and  serve  with  or  without  sauce. 

Strawberry    Cream. 

Remove  the  stems  from  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  ripe  strawberries,  pass  them 
through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin,  mix  in  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
sugar  and  stir  constantly  until  the  sugar  has  dissolved.  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
arrowroot  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  milk,  then  pour  on  it  gradually  one  quart  of 
boiling  cream;  turn  the  cream  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  it  for  a  minute  or  two,  stir- 
ring it  all  the  time.  Put  the  puree  of  strawberries  into  a  dish  and  when  slightly 
cooled  pour  the  cream  over  them.  Place  the  dish  in  a  cold  spot  until  the  cream  has 
set.  Whisk  the  whites  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth;  put  half  of  the  beaten 
egg  over  the  strawberries,  color  the  remainder  with  a  little  prepared  cochineal  and 
fleck  it  about  on  the  top  It  is  then  ready  for  serving.  Spinach  greening  may  be 
used  in  place  of  the  cochineal  if  desired. 

Strawberries  and  Whipped  Cream. 

First  remove  the  hulls  from  the  strawberries  and  see  that  they  are  clean  and 
sound.  Arrange  them  in  a  glass  dish,  put  a  layer  of  powdered  white  sugar  between 
the  layers  of  strawberries  and  stand  the  dish  away  in  a  cool  place.  Take  one  pint  of 
cream,  add  to  it  the  whites  of  three  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar, 
whip  this  mixture  until  it  froths,  then  allow  it  to  stand  for  a  minute  or  so;  remove 
the  froth  as  it  forms  and  place  it  on  a  sieve  standing  over  a  basin,  so  that  any  cream 
that  may  drain  from  the  sieve  will  not  be  wasted,  then  whip  the  cream  again  till  it 
froths  and  remove  the  froth.  Lay  it  on  the  sieve  and  proceed  as  before,  from  time 
to  time  turning  back  into  the  whipping-bowl  any  cream  that  has  drained  from  the 
froth.  Keep  the  whipped  cream  very  cold  and  separate  from  the  strawberries  until 
a  minute  or  so  before  serving,  when  it  should  be  lightly  laid  round  them,  piling  it  as 
high  as  possible. 

Frozen  Strawberries  and  Whipped  Cream. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  crushed  loaf-sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of 
water,  and  boil  together  for  half  an  hour.  Put  two  quarts  of  picked  ripe  strawber- 
ries into  the  syrup,  and  boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Let  the  strawberries  and 
syrup  cool,  then  turn  them  into  the  freezing-pot,  and  work  them  until  frozen.  Mix 
in  with  the  frozen  strawberries  one  pint  of  whipped  cream,  and  serve. 

Strawberry  and  Raspberry  Whipped  Cream. 

Carefully  pick  over  one-half  pound  each  of  strawberries  and  raspberries,  mash, 
and  strain  the  juice.  Sweeten  the  juice  with  powdered  sugar.  Whip  one  quart  of 


674  COLD   DESSERTS. 

cream  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  mix  the  sweetened  juice  with  it.     Place  the  mashed  fruit 
on  a  glass  dish,  pour  the  whipped  cream  over  it,  and  serve. 

Swiss  Cream. 

Mix  in  a  basin  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  caster-sugar  with  the  yolks  of 
eight  eggs  and  the  grated  yellow  peel  of  one  lemon,  and  set  it  in  a  larger  one  con- 
taining boiling  water.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  then  whisk  in  gradually  one-half  pint 
of  French  white  wine.  Turn  the  cream  into  a  glass  dish,  and  serve  it  immediately. 

Vanilla    Cream. 

Pour  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  with  half  a  vanilla  bean, 
and  boil  it;  then  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  put  the  lid  on  and  allow  the 
vanilla  to  soak  for  an  hour.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  together  with  three-fourths 
of  a  pound  of  sugar,  then  stir  it  into  the  milk,  and  keep  stirring  over  a  clear  fire  un- 
til the  custard  thickens,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil.  Take  the  custard  off  the 
fire  and  stir  it  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  Soak  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine 
in  cold  water  for  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  and  mix  it  in  the  hot  custard.  When 
the  gelatine  has  dissolved  strain  the  custard  through  a  pointed  strainer  into  another 
stewpan,  which  place  on  the  top  of  some  rough  ice;  stir  the  contents  till  it  com- 
mences to  set.  Whip  one  and  one-fourth  pints  of  cream  to  a  stiff  froth,  remove  the 
stewpan  from  the  ice  and  stir  it  in.  Fill  a  cylinder-mould  with  the  cream,  pack  it  in 
pounded  ice,  and  leave  till  the  cream  is  set.  Dip  the  mould  into  warm  water,  wipe 
it,  turn  the  contents  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Cream   Versailles. 

Put  one  teacupful  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  gently  until  it  is 
of  a  light  brown  color.  Put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  stir  for  a  minute  and  mix 
in  one  quart  of  milk.  Add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt  beaten  up  with  seven  or 
eight  eggs  and  one  half-teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract;  turn  the  whole  into  a  charlotte- 
mould  after  buttering  it  lightly,  set  it  in  a  pan  of  warm  water  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  forty  minutes.  Push  a  knife  down  the  center  to  test  it,  and  if  the  custard  is 
not  milky  it  is  done.  Place  it  in  a  cool  place,  let  it  remain  until  quite  cold,  turn  it 
out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  with  caramel  sauce  poured  over  it. 


Whipped   Cream. 


This  is  made  from  cream  that  has  been  left  for  a  day  or  two  before  being 
skimmed  from  the  milk.  It  should  be  placed  in  a  large  basin,  and  set  on  ice,  so  that 
it  may  be  kept  cool  while  it  is  being  whipped.  This  should  be  done  with  a  whisk 
and  is  to  be  continued  until  the  cream  is  frothed.  A  little  white  of  egg  and  gum- 


COLD    DESSERTS.  675 

water  will  make  it  stand  better,  and  it  should  only  be  made  just  before  it  is  wanted 
for  use,  the  sugar  required  to  sweeten  it  and  also  the  flavoring  being  put  in  the  last 
thing.  By  removing  the  froth  with  a  spoon  as  it  forms  and  putting  it  on  a  coarse 
hair-sieve,  the  free  cream  runs  through,  leaving  froth  only ;  the  liquid  cream  may  be 
put  back  to  the  other  cream  being  whipped. 

Whipped   Cream   Flavored  with  Brandy,  Coffee,  Cura^oa, 

Rum,   Etc. 

Pour  one  pint  of  fresh  cream  into  a  basin,  and  place  it  over  a  larger  basin  con- 
taining broken  ice.  Beat  the  cream  with  a  wire  whisk,  moderately  at  first,  but  faster 
as  the  froth  begins  to  form,  and  then  whip  in  one  gill  of  brandy,  liquid  extract  of 
coffee,  or  other  flavoring.  Beat  until  all  is  worked  in,  and  then  turn  the  cream  froth 
into  a  glass  dish  and  place  it  in  an  ice-chest  to  keep  it  cool  until  required  for  serving. 
The  froth  may  be  set  on  a  fine  silk-sieve  to  drain,  and  the  cream  should  drip  from  it 
to  be  returned  to  the  basin  for  further  whipping. 

Newport  Whipped    Cream. 

Pour  one  pint  of  sour  or  sweet  cream  into  a  bowl  with  one-fourth  of  a  pint  of 
fresh  milk,  half  a  lemon  cut  into  slices,  and  wine  and  sugar  to  taste,  whipping  them 
well  together.  Take  off  the  froth  and  serve  it  in  jelly  glasses. 

Whipped    Red   Currant   Cream. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  gelatine  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  set  it  on  the 
fire  until  boiling  and  dissolved,  and  mix  with  it  one  breakfast  cupful  of  red  currant 
juice  and  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon,  or  two  small  ones.  Sweeten  the  mixture  to 
taste,  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling  again,  strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  leave 
until  cool.  Then  sweeten  one  pint  of  sweet  cream  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  caster- 
sugar,  whisk  it  to  a  stiff  snow  or  froth,  add  it  to  the  currant-juice,  and  whisk  the 
whole  together.  When  the  mixture  is  very  thick,  turn  it  into  a  mould  packed  with 
ice.  When  set,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  wipe,  and  turn  the  cream  out  onto  a 
fancy  dish. 

Vanilla  Whipped  Cream. 

Boil  a  little  vanilla  in  a  small  quantity  of  milk,  strain  it,  and  add  the  milk  to  one 
pint  of  cream,  together  with  a  small  quantity  of  gum  tragacanth,  a  little  orange-flower 
water,  and  sufficient  powdered  white  sugar  to  sweeten  it.  Whip  all  these  together  to 
a  froth,  and  pile  it  on  a  glass  dish. 


676  COLD    DESSERTS. 

Cream   with  Burnt  Sugar. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  into  a  small  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
water,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  slightly  browned.  Put  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
caster-sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  milk  and  the  burnt  sugar,  flavoring  to 
taste  with  rose-water  or  orange-water.  Stir  the  milk  over  the  fire  and  boil  for  about 
ten  minutes,  then  move  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  stir 
them  gradually  into  the  above  mixture.  Strain  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve 
and  fill  some  small  cups  with  it;  stand  them  in  a  stewpan  filled  with  hot  water  to  a 
depth  of  three-parts  their  height,  and  leave  them  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 
cream  is  thick.  Take  the  cups  out  of  the  stewpan,  sprinkle  caster-sugar  over  them, 
and  when  slightly  cooled,  stand  them  on  ice.  In  half  an  hour's  time,  they  will  be 
ready  for  serving. 

Cream   with   Chocolate. 

Put  four  or  five  ounces  of  the  best  chocolate  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  tea- 
cupful  of  water  and  two  ounces  of  caster-sugar,  place  the  saucepan  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  stir  the  contents  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  chocolate  is  well  dissolved,  then 
stir  in  gradually  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  and  the  white  of  one;  remove  the  milk,  etc.,  from  the  fire,  and  mix 
in  the  beaten  eggs,  stirring  well;  then  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Fill 
some  small  cream-cups  with  the  mixture,  and  place  them  in  the  stewpan  with  hot 
water  to  three-fourths  their  height.  When  the  cream  thickens  take  the  cups  out  of 
the  pan,  sprinkle  over  caster-sugar,  and  when  cooled  a  trifle,  place  them  on  ice  until 
required. 

Cream   with   Orange. 

Place  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  an  orange  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  milk 
and  set  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  move  it  to  the  side  and  let  it  simmer  for 
ten  minutes.  Put  five  tablespoonfuls  of  caster-sugar  in  a  basin  with  the  yolks  of  four 
or  five  eggs  and  beat  them  well;  then,  while  still  beating,  pour  in  gradually  the  boil- 
ing milk.  Strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  fill  small  cups  with  it  and  stand 
them  in  a  pan  with  boiling  water  to  three-fourths  their  height.  Remove  the  cups 
from  the  water,  leave  them  until  slightly  cooled,  then  stand  them  on  ice  until  wanted 
for  serving. 

Strawberry  Crusts. 

Prepare  some  small  round  buns  that  can  be  split  into  halves,  buttered  and 
warmed  in  the  oven.  Sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over  some  strawberries,  bruise  them 
slightly  and  allow  them  to  stand  for  a  considerable  length  of  time.  Mix  the  fruit 
and  sugar,  cover  the  hot  buns  with  this,  allow  them  to  get  cold,  and  then  serve  in  a 
glass  dish. 


COLD    DESSERTS.  677 

Arrowroot   Custard. 

Beat  up  an  egg  or  two  with  some  sweetened  milk,  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  arrow- 
root and  add  sufficient  hot  milk  for  the  mixture  to  fill  a  small  buttered  cup.  Stand 
this  in  a  stewpan  with  so  little  hot  water  that  it  cannot  boil  up  over  the  sides  of  the 
cup  and  steam  for  twenty  minutes.  When  done  turn  out.  Serve  hot  or  cold  and 
with  stewed  fruit  or  jam.  These  custards  may  be  flavored  either  with  essence  of 
vanilla  or  lemon. 

Baked    Custard. 

Boil  a  handful  of  peach-leaves  with  one  quart  of  milk;  when  the  milk  is  cold 
strain  it  and  mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  caster-sugar;  then  stir  in  gradually  eight 
eggs  beaten  very  light.  Pour  the  custard  in  a  buttered  pie-dish,  grate  nutmeg  on 
the  top  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  It  may  be  served  hot  or  cold. 

Chestnut   Custard. 

Roast  well  three  pounds  of  chestnuts,  peel  and  skin  them,  and  cut  off  any  parts 
that  are  colored  by  the  fire.  Put  them  into  a  mortar  and  pound  until  they  form  a 
smooth  paste,  together  with  one  pound  of  butter;  then  add  the  yolks  of  twelve  well- 
beaten  eggs  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar,  and  a  little  salt; 
mix  in  slowly  one-half  pint  of  whipped  cream,  and  finally  the  whites  of  one  dozen 
eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth;  this  froth  must  be  added  gradually  and  stirred  very 
gently.  When  all  is  mixed,  put  the  custard  into  a  saucepan,  place  it  over  a  slow  fire,, 
and  stir  until  it  thickens,  not  allowing  it  to  boil. 


Chocolate-Apple  Custard. 


Peel,  core,  and  cut  in  quarters  a  few  cooking-apples,  put  in  a  pan  with  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  sweeten  and  dust  in  some  cinnamon.  Cook  the  apples  over  the 
fire  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Scrape  a  pound  of  chocolate  in  a  saucepan  with  six 
ounces  of  sugar,  and  one  quart  of  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  the  whites  of 
two.  When  it  begins  to  boil  pour  in  the  eggs,  stirring  gently  all  the  time.  Pour  the 
chocolate  over  the  apple  pulp,  set  the  dish  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and  stand  on  the 
fire  till  firm. 

Cold    Custard. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  one  pint  of  milk,  put  into  a  saucepan,  and  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  pounded  bitter  almonds,  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  and  sugar  to 
taste.  Stir  the  custard  over  the  fire  until  the  isinglass  is  dissolved,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil;  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  pour  it  into  a  mould.  When  set  and 
quite  cold  turn  out  the  custard,  and  serve. 


678  COLD   DESSERTS. 

Custard   Flavored   with    Rum. 

Soak  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  one  pint  of  cold  milk  for  fifteen  minutes  and  then 
stir  it  over  the  fire  until  dissolved.  Rub  six  ounces  of  loaf-sugar  on  the  yellow  rind 
of  two  lemons  and  put  into  the  boiling  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of  nine  eggs  in  one  pint 
of  milk,  pour  it  into  the  saucepan  with  the  milk  and  gelatine,  and  stir  the  whole  over 
the  fire  until  on  the  point  of  boiling;  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  continue  stirring 
until  nearly  cold.  If  the  custard  is  allowed  to  boil,  the  eggs  will  curdle.  Mix  in  two 
wineglassfuls  of  rum  when  the  custard  is  quite  cold.  Pour  the  custard  into  a  mould 
which  has  been  rinsed  out  with  cold  water,  and  pack  in  ice.  Before  serving,  dip  the 
mould  into  tepid  water,  turn  the  custard  out  onto  a  dish,  and  squeeze  over  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  serve. 

French   Custard. 

Mix  into  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  milk  one  dessertspoonful  of  potato-flour;  when 
smooth,  add  gradually  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  sweetened  with  one  ounce  of  caster- 
sugar,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thick;  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  flour  to  taste,  and 
keep  on  the  fire  for  four  or  five  minutes.  Empty  the  custard  into  a  dish  to  cool,  and 
stir  now  and  then  to  prevent  a  skin  from  forming. 


Custard  in   Cups   or   Glasses. 


Beat  together  half  a  teacupful  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  whites  of  two, 
and  add  slowly  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk,  stirring  constantly.  Put  into  a  saucepan 
three  breakfast  cupfuls  more  of  milk,  place  on  the  fire  until  it  comes  to  a  boil,  and 
pour  it  over  the  beaten  mixture;  set  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  for  about  five  minutes,  by  which  time  it  should  be  thick;  then  work  in  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  set  it  away  to  cool;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  or  vanilla 
flavoring,  or  half  the  quantity  of  almond.  Then  pour  the  custard  into  custard-cups 
or  glasses. 

Lemon   Custard. 

Pour  into  a  saucepan  one  quart  of  milk,  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon,  two  bitter 
almonds,  and  one-half  pound  of  sugar.  Bring  the  milk  to  the  boil,  strain  it  gradually 
through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  saucepan  over  six  well-beaten  eggs,  and  stir  well  until  it 
thickens.  Pour  it  at  once  into  custard-cups  or  glasses,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Macaroon    Custard. 

Crush  some  macaroons  with  half  their  quantity  of  ratafias,  beat  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  together  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream,  sweeten  to  taste  with  powdered  sugar 
and  flavor  with  any  essence  desired;  pour  the  custard  in  a  saucepan,  and  stir  it  over  a 
fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  on  the  point  of  boiling.  Mix  the  biscuits  with  the 


COLD    DESSERTS.  679 

custard,  and  pile  them  on  a  glass  dish;  whisk  two  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
spread  them  over  the  top  of  the  custard,  grate  over  a  small  quantity  of  the  nutmeg, 
and  serve  them. 

Peach   Custard. 

Make  a  paste  with  one  pound  of  sifted  flour,  two  eggs,  two  ounces  of  butter  and 
a  very  little  salt.  Butter  the  inside  of  a  tin  mould,  line  it  with  the  paste  and  bake. 
Boil  the  peaches  in  syrup,  remove  the  paste  from  the  mould  when  done  and  put  the 
peaches  in.  Boil  the  syrup  till  reduced,  then  pour  it  over  the  peaches,  and  serve. 

Tapioca   Custard. 

Steep  seven  or  eight  ounces  of  tapioca  in  one  quart  of  cold  milk  and  stand  it  in 
a  warm  place.  Pour  into  a  saucepan  two  quarts  of  milk  with  two  ounces  of  sugar; 
when  boiling  add  the  steeped  tapioca  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  Stir  in  two  ounces 
of  butter,  then  the  yolks  of  a  dozen  well-beaten  eggs,  and  remove  the  pan  at  once 
from  the  fire.  Allow  the  custard  to  cool,  flavor  it  with  vanilla  or  lemon  and  pour  it 
into  the  freezer;  when  nearly  frozen  add  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream  whipped  to  a 
stiff  froth  and  beat  all  together  well  before  using. 

Vanilla   Custard. 

(i.)  Large — Boil  one  quart  of  cream  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  vanilla 
bean.  Beat  thoroughly  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  and  pour  the  boiling  cream  over 
them.  Set  the  mixture  on  the  fire  again  for  one  minute.  The  custard  will  not  froth 
in  the  freezer  if  cooked  much,  but  should  be  taken  off  and  strained  as  soon  as  slightly 
thickened.  Freeze  and  beat  lightly  and  serve  as  required. 

(2.)  Small — Pour  two  and  one-half  pints  of  boiling  milk  on  a  vanilla  bean  that 
has  been  broken  into  small  pieces  and  allow  it  to  soak  for  an  hour.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  five  eggs  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  sugar,  mix  them  in  with  the  boiled  milk 
and  strain  the  whole  through  a  pointed  strainer.  Fill  some  cups  with  the  custard 
mixture,  stand  them  in  a  flat  stewpan,  surround  them  with  boiling  water  to  a  little 
more  than  half  their  height  and  stand  the  stewpan  on  a  slow  fire  to  keep  the  water 
just  simmering  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  When  the  custards  are  set  let  them 
cool  in  the  water,  then  wipe  the  cups,  and  serve  at  once. 


Vanilla   Cup    Custards. 


Pound  a  vanilla  bean  in  a  mortar,  stir  in  three  pints  of  milk,  eight  well-beaten 
eggs  and  sufficient  crushed  loaf  sugar  to  sweeten;  with  this  fill  up  some  cups,  place 
them  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  set  them  in  the  oven  and  cook.  Turn  the  custards  out 
when  done,  and  serve  them  either  hot  or  cold. 


680  COLD   DESSERTS. 

Wine   Custard. 

Put  one  quart  of  rich  milk  in  a  saucepan  with  six  ounces  of  sugar  and  boil  it. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  with  six  more  ounces  of  sugar  till  light  and  thick,  then 
pour  in  gradually  the  boiling  milk.  Return  the  custard  to  the  saucepan,  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  thick  and  on  the  point  of  boiling;  then  remove  it  at  once,  for  if  it 
boils  the  eggs  will  curdle,  and  stir  into  it  two  wineglassfuls  of  white  wine.  Strain  the 
custard  into  a  basin  and  set  it  on  the  ice  till  cold.  Put  some  slices  of  jelly-cake  into 
a  large  bowl,  pour  in  the  custard,  pile  some  whipped  cream  on  the  top,  and  serve;  or, 
if  preferred,  the  custard  may  be  turned  into  saucers,  with  small  round  Italian  cakes 
floating  in  them. 

Flawn   of  Fruits,  Viennese   Style. 

Line  a  scalloped  flawn-circle  with  a  tartlet  paste;  decorate  the  edge  of  the  border 
with  leaves  of  paste  and  brush  them  over  with  egg.  Cover  the  bottom  and  sides  of 
the  mould  with  paper,  fill  up  the  center  with  flour,  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake 
for  forty  minutes.  This  is  what  is  called  cooking  it  "a  blanc."  Take  it  out,  empty 
out  the  flour,  remove  the  paper,  let  it  cool,  turn  it  out  and  mask  inwardly  with  a  layer 
of  apricot  marmalade.  Place  the  crust  on  a  dish,  and  fifteen  minutes  before  using 
fill  the  center  with  a  bavarois  mixture  of  rice  and  almond-milk  thickened  on  the 
ice,  putting  it  in  the  flawn  in  layers  alternately  with  apricot  marmalade  and  raising 
it  up  in  the  center  to  the  shape  of  a  dome.  Place  it  on  the  ice  for  a  few  minutes  to 
get  firm,  then  put  a  circle  of  green  gages  at  the  base  of  the  bavarois  dome,  then  a 
circle  of  halves  of  glazed  peaches  below.  Put  a  pile  of  cooked  cherries  on  the 
bavarois  in  the  center  of  the  circle  of  peaches.  Cover  all  of  the  fruits  over  with 
some  of  their  own  syrup  when  quite  cold,  by  means  of  a  paste-brush,  and  serve. 

Strawberry   Flawn. 

Butter  a  flawn-circle  and  line  it  with  a  nice  tart  paste.  Cover  the  paste  with  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  bake  it  in  a  slack  oven.  When  cooked  remove  the 
paper  and  cover  the  paste  with  a  thin  coating  of  apricot  marmalade.  When  cold  fill 
the  hollow  of  the  paste  with  some  nice  ripe  freshly-gathered  strawberries,  putting  them 
in  close  layers,  and  pouring  over  them  a  little  thick  syrup.  Whip  one-half  pint  of 
cream  to  a  stiff  froth,  adding  powdered  sugar  and  flavoring  to  taste.  Pour  the  cream 
over  the  strawberries,  raising  it  in  a  dome.  Put  the  flawn  in  a  folded  napkin  laid  on 
a  dish,  and  serve. 

Fruit   Bowl. 

Take  half  of  a  large  pineapple  and  cut  off  all  the  outside  pithy  part,  cut  it  up 
into  slices  and  then  into  small  squares  and  put  them  in  a  basin;  add  five  or  six  ripe 
peaches  cut  in  halves,  and  then  in  slices,  also  the  same  quantity  of  apricots  peeled  and 


COLD    DESSERTS.  681 

cut  into  slices,  one  or  two  handfuls  of  stoned  cherries  and  double  the  quantity  of 
raspberries  and  red  currants.  Pour  over  one  wineglassful  of  syrup  and  two  wine- 
glassfuls  of  claret  and  set  the  basin  on  ice.  Put  the  cuttings  from  a  pineapple  into  a 
mortar,  pound  it  well,  put  it  into  a  sieve  with  one  quart  of  strawberries,  rub  them 
through  into  a  basin  and  mix  in  a  quart  bottle  of  champagne  mixed  with  a  wineglass- 
ful of  syrup.  Pack  a  thin  china  basin  in  ice,  pour  in  the  champagne  mixture,  and  stir 
for  twenty  minutes;  then  add  the  strained  juice  of  two  oranges  and  the  mixed  fruits. 
Serve  with  small  fancy  biscuits  when  the  mixture  is  quite  cold. 

Glazed   Fruits. 

Put  in  a  copper  sugar-boiler  over  the  fire  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  with  one  gill  of 
cold  water  and  boil  until  the  top  is  covered  with  large  bubbles,  then  drop  a  little  of  it 
into  cold  water;  if  when  it  is  cold  it  breaks  with  a  snap,  it  is  ready.  The  sides  of  the 
boiler  must  be  wiped  occasionally  with  a  wet  cloth  to  free  them  from  sugar,  and  the 
sugar  closely  watched  lest  it  boil  beyond  the  point  indicated.  Remove  the  boiler 
from  the  fire  and  glaze  the  fruits  by  dipping  them  into  the  sugar  and  then  laying 
them  on  a  dish  slightly  coated  with  salad  oil. 

Fruit   Rice. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  well-washed  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  six  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  moist  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  three  pints  of  milk,  and  boil  gently 
until  tender,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Rinse  out  a  mould  with  cold  water,  then  line  it 
round  the  bottom  and  sides  with  any  kind  of  canned  fruit,  pour  the  rice  gently  into 
the  prepared  mould,  being  very  careful  not  to  disarrange  the  fruit,  and  set  it  in  a  cold 
place.  Whip  one  pint  of  thick  cream  with  the  juice  of  the  fruit.  When  quite  set 
turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  out  onto  a  fancy  dish,  pour  the  whipped  cream  over 
and  round  it,  and  serve.  The  cream  should  not  be  whipped  until  a  half  an  hour 
before  needed. 

Fruit    Salad. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  very  ripe  cherries  and  remove  the  stalks  and  stones;  then 
take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  each  of  red  and  white  currants  and  pick  and  hull  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  each  of  raspberries  and  strawberries;  sprinkle  over  the  fruit  plenty  of 
powdered  white  sugar  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy.  Stir  and  shake  the 
fruit  about  lightly  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  serve. 

Vol-au-Vent  of  Fruits. 

Prepare  a  vol-au-vent  case  of  puff  paste.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  and  cover 
it  with  royal  icing.  Scald  and  sweeten  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  stir  in  twelve 
preserved  cherries  and  six  apricots  cut  in  halves,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  erf 


682  COLD    DESSERTS. 

orange-flower  water.  Put  two  ounces  of  macaroons  at  the  bottom  of  the  case,  pour  in 
the  cream  mixture,  also  two  bananas  cut  in  slices  and  three  rings  of  angelica,  put  an- 
other two  ounces  of  macaroons  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

Iced  Raspberries. 

The  raspberries  must  be  large  and  good.  Hull  them,  and  examine  the  hollows 
carefully  to  see  that  there  are  no  insects  in  them.  Beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg  with 
one  wineglassful  of  water;  dip  the  raspberries,  one  at  a  time,  into  the  mixture  of  egg 
and  water,  and  roll  them  in  powdered  sugar,  one  at  a  time,  as  they  are  taken  out  of 
the  water,  place  them  at  short  distances  from  each  other  on  white  paper,  and  leave 
them  until  they  are  quite  dry,  which  will  probably  take  six  or  seven  hours.  When 
dry,  keep  in  a  cool  place  till  served  for  dessert. 

Iced  Strawberries. 

Take  off  the  hulls  from  a  quantity  of  strawberries,  and  see  that  they  are  quite 
clean  and  free  from  grit.  Weigh  them,  and  allow  to  every  pound  of  strawberries 
three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  white  powdered  sugar.  Place  them  in  a  deep  glass  dish, 
with  a  layer  of  sugar  between  every  layer  of  fruit,  and  for  one  and  one-half  pounds 
of  sugar  pour  over  one  wineglassful  of  any  fruit-juice  that  may  be  preferred.  Put 
the  dish  into  a  refrigerator  and  let  it  remain  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Then  remove  it, 
sprinkle  the  tops  of  the  strawberries  with  finely-pounded  ice,  and  then  with  powdered 
white  sugar,  and  serve  without  delay. 


Anisette  Jelly  with  Pears. 


Cut  some  large  pears  into  six  pieces  each,  boil  them  in  some  syrup  and  color 
with  a  few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal.  Whisk  a  little  gelatine  over  a  fire  till  boil- 
ing, adding  the  whites  of  some  eggs  and  a  little  lump-sugar,  to  which  add  the  juice 
of  lemon  and  a  little  water.  Take  this  mixture  off,  and  let  it  cool,  then  add  a  little 
anisette.  Drain  the  pears,  and  fill  a  plain  cylinder-mould  with  them  and  the  jelly 
alternately.  Pack  the  mould  in  ice,  and  when  the  jelly  is  solid,  which  will  probably 
be  about  two  hours,  turn  out,  and  serve. 


Arrowroot  Jelly. 


Mix  an  ounce  or  so  of  arrowroot  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  when  smooth,  stir 
in  some  boiling  water,  beef  tea,  strong  chicken  or  veal  broth,  or  milk  may  be  used 
instead  of  water;  add  a  wineglassful  of  port  or  Madeira  and  flavor  with  nutmeg,  or 
vanilla,  if  milk  or  water  is  used. 


COLD    DESSERTS.  683 

Brandy  Jelly. 

Put  a  little  cold  water  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  couple  of 
ounces  of  gelatine  in  small  pieces  and  grate  the  rind  of  a  lemon  in,  squeezing  in  the 
juice  as  well.  Mix  thoroughly  and  place  the  saucepan  on  a  hot  stove.  Beat  up  in  a 
basin  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and  add  to  the  above  mixture;  grate  a  Uttle  nutmeg, 
adding  six  cloves  and  a  bay  leaf,  mixing  well  for  a  minute.  Have  ready  a  jelly-bag 
tied  on  a  stand;  stir  the  preparation,  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil,  set  back  to  a  cooler 
part  of  the  stove  and  continue  to  stir  for  six  minutes.  Put  a  vessel  underneath  the 
jelly-bag  and  pour  the  whole  of  the  contents  of  the  pan  into  the  bag,  repeating  the 
straining  process  until  the  jelly  is  bright,  and  then  add  a  gill  of  brandy.  Have  in 
readiness  a  quart  jelly-mould  and  pour  the  jelly  from  the  vessel  into  it  and  set  in  a 
cool  place  for  two  hours,  then  pack  it  in  ice  and  let  it  remain  there  for  two  hours  longer. 
To  remove  the  jelly  from  the  mould,  dip  it  lightly  in  warmed  water  and  take  it  up  at 
once,  turn  out,  wipe  neatly,  and  serve. 


Calf's   Foot  Jelly. 


Cleanse  and  wash  four  calf's  feet  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one  gallon 
of  water,  and  add  two  ounces  of  isinglass  and  a  little  lemon-peel.  Place  the  pan 
over  a  moderate  fire  and  stew  slowly  until  a  strong  jelly  is  formed;  carefully  skim  off 
the  fat  and  pour  in  a  quart  of  white  wine.  When  this  is  incorporated,  work  in  one 
pound  of  loaf-sugar,  the  juice  of  seven  lemons  and  the  whites  of  fifteen  eggs  beaten 
to  a  froth.  Put  the  pan  on  the  fire  again  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  longer;  remove  to 
the  side  and  let  the  jelly  remain  for  a  few  minutes  in  order  to  settle;  then  strain  it 
through  a  jelly-bag  into  moulds.  When  entirely  cold,  turn  it  out,  and  serve. 

Champagne  Jelly. 

Dissolve  two  ounces  of  gelatine  in  one  quart  of  cold  water,  pour  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan and  add  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  three  oranges  and  the  whites  of  two  or  three 
fresh  eggs  and  all  the  shells  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar;  mix  thoroughly, 
pour  in  another  pint  of  water,  place  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  stir  it  continually 
until  the  liquor  boils.  Remove  it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  keep  hot  without 
boiling  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Then  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  adding  a  pint  of 
champagne,  pour  it  into  moulds  and  let  it  set.  Turn  it  out,  and  serve. 

Champagne  Jelly   in   Glasses. 

Put  fifteen  leaves  of  gelatine  in  a  basin,  cover  them  with  cold  water  and  allow 
them  to  soften  for  half  an  hour;  then  drain  off  the  water.  Find  out  the  consistence 
of  the  gelatine,  pour  it  into  the  champagne  glasses,  not  allowing  the  liquid  to  come 
quite  to  the  brim,  place  them  in  a  bucket,  surround  them  with  ice,  cover  the  top  and 


684  COLD    DESSERTS. 

allow  the  jelly  to  set.  Pour  into  a  basin  a  little  dissolved  jelly  and  whip  it  until  it  is 
white  and  frothy;  then  take  up  tablespoonfuls  and  put  it  into  each  of  the  glasses 
when  the  other  jelly  is  set.  When  the  froth  is  cool  wipe  the  glasses  and  serve. 

Cherry  Jelly. 

Remove  the  stalks  and  stones  from  two  or  three  pounds  of  cherries,  place  them 
in  a  basin,  pound  the  kernels  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  three  lemons  through  a 
sieve.  Mash  the  cherries  with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding  about  one  teacupfu*!  of  red 
currant  jelly;  then  add  the  kernels  and  stir  all  well  together.  Boil  and  skim  one  pint 
of  clarified  sugar  and  isinglass,  put  the  cherries  into  a  jelly  bag,  pour  this  syrup  over 
them  and  pass  it  through  until  quite  clear  If  it  is  not  sweet  enough  add  more  sugar; 
if  too  sweet  add  more  lemon-juice.  Dampen  a  mould,  pack  it  in  ice,  fill  it  with  the 
jelly  and  turn  it  out  when  firm  and  well  set. 

Claret  Jelly. 

Into  an  enameled  saucepan  put  one-fourth  pound  of  lump-sugar,  ten  drams  of 
gelatine,  half  a  pint  of  claret  and  half  a  wineglassful  of  brandy  and  let  them  soak  for 
ten  minutes.  Then  put  in  the  very  thin  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  together  with  half  a 
pound  of  currant  jelly.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  stove  and  stir  until  it  boils,  then 
draw  it  to  the  side  and  let  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Moisten  the  inside  of  a  jelly- 
mould  with  cold  water,  strain  the  jelly  into  it,  and  when  quite  cold  turn  it  into  a 
glass  dish,  and  serve. 

Constantine  Jelly- 
Cut  in  halves  half  a  dozen  apricots,  remove  the  stones,  place  the  apricots  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  little  syrup,  and  boil  until  done.  Allow  them  to  get  cold  and  cut 
each  half  into  three  pieces.  Pack  an  ornamental  mould  in  ice,  pour  a  little  warm 
jelly  at  the  bottom,  sprinkle  in  a  little  desiccated  cocoanut  mixed  with  shredded  pis- 
tachio nuts,  and  when  the  other  is  set  pour  over  a  little  more  jelly;  then  put  a  layer 
of  the  strips  of  apricots,  then  more  jelly,  then  cocoanut  and  kernels,  and  continue  in 
this  way  until  the  mould  is  full,  allowing  each  layer  to  set  before  another  is  added. 
Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  when  set,  fill  the  cavity  with  whipped  cream  mixed  with  more 
desiccated  cocoanut  and  pistachio  nuts,  and  serve. 

Crystal  Jellies. 

Put  one  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  water,  and  the  rind  of 
one  lemon.  When  it  boils  stir  in  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  and  one-half  pint  of  light 
wine.  When  the  isinglass  is  well  dissolved,  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag  and  let  it 
stand  until  cold.  Squeeze  the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons  in  a  cup,  keeping  back 
the  pips.  Grate  the  rind  of  one  lemon  in  the  juice,  and  allow  it  to  remain  for  a  short 


COLD    DESSERTS.  685 

time.  Strain  the  juice  into  the  jelly,  whisk  it  until  it  begins  to  stiffen,  then  turn  it 
into  the  jelly  moulds  and  let  it  set.  When  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  jellies  onto  a 
glass  dish. 

Dantzig   Sweet  Jelly. 

Clarify  from  sixteen  to  twenty  leaves  of  French  gelatine,  and  when  it  is  cold  mix 
with  it  about  one-half  pint  of  Dantzig  brandy,  and  add  the  syrup  required  to  sweeten. 
When  the  jelly  is  half  set,  put  it  on  ice,  and  stir  it  for  a  time  without  allowing  it  to 
thicken;  then  put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  -pistachios  cut  in  slices.  Pack  in  ice  a 
cylinder-mould,  pour  the  jelly  into  it  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour ;  then  dip  the  mould 
in  tepid  water,  wipe  it  thoroughly  all  round,  and  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  glass  dish. 

Jelly    for   Cake. 

Peel  and  core  a  few  apples  ;  pound  and  mix  one  breakfast  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar  and  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  one  lemon.  When  mixed  put  in  a  jar,  stand 
in  a  saucepan,  surround  with  boiling  water,  and  let  it  stand  until  cooked.  Jelly  pre- 
pared in  this  way  is  used  for  spreading  over  sponge-cake. 


French   Sweet  Jelly. 


Prepare  one  quart  of  calf's  foot  or  gelatine  jelly,  sweeten  and  flavor  it  with 
sherry-wine.  Choose  a  fancy  jelly-mould,  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  jelly,  and 
leave  it  to  set  for  two  hours.  Choose  some  fine  ripe  fruit  of  any  kind  in  season,  wipe 
it  and  pick  off  the  stalks;  arrange  the  fruit  tastefully  around  the  edge  of  the  mould, 
fixing  them  in  place  with  a  little  jelly;  pour  in  more  of  the  jelly  and  let  it  set,  con- 
tinuing in  this  way  until  the  mould  is  full.  When  the  jelly  is  well  set,  turn  it  onto  a 
fancy  glass  dish,  garnish  with  crystallized  fruits,  and  serve. 


Gelatine  Jelly. 


Soak  and  dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  gill  of  cold  water,  pour  over  it 
half  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  stir  until  the  gelatine  has  quite  melted;  then  add 
sugar  to  taste  and  a  flavoring  of  thinly-pared  lemon  peel.  When  it  is  quite  cold  set 
it  over  the  fire  with  the  beaten  whites  and  shells  of  two  eggs,  and  let  it  come  to  a 
boil,  but  do  not  stir  it.  As  soon  as  it  boils  take  it  from  the  fire  and  gently  pour  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water;  let  it  stand  for  five  or  ten  minutes  and  then  run  it 
through  a  jelly-bag.  If  it  is  not  quite  clear,  run  it  through  the  bag  again.  When 
quite  clear,  mix  with  it  a  gill  of  wine,  let  stand  until  nearly  cold  and  pour  it  into  the 
mould.  When  set,  turn  out,  and  serve. 


686  COLD    DESSERTS. 


Jamaica  Jelly. 


Boil  one  pound  of  sugar  together  with  two  ounces  of  clarified  isinglass  and  one 
wineglassful  of  Jamaica  rum  until  reduced  to  a  clear  jelly.  Rinse  a  mould  out  with 
cold  water,  pour  the  jelly  into  it  and  stand  it  in  a  cool  place.  When  firm  and  cold 
turn  the  jelly  onto  a  glass  dish,  arrange  round  it  some  small  bunches  of  grapes,  pour 
over  thick  cream,  and  serve. 


Kirsch   Jelly,  with    Cherries. 


Put  in  some  syrup  boiled  at  thirty  degrees  one  pound  of  morello  cherries,  and 
boil  them  for  five  minutes.  Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  gelatine,  the  beaten 
whites  of  three  eggs,  one  pound  of  sugar  and  three  pints  of  water,  with  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Whisk  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  turn  it  out  and  add  one  and  one-half 
teacupfuls  of  kirsch  after  it  is  cold.  Crack  about  fifty  cherry  stones,  blanch  and  peel 
the  kernels,  drain  the  cherries,  and  put  a  layer  first  of  jelly  and  then  of  cherries  and 
a  sprinkling  of  the  kernels  in  a  plain  cylinder-mould,  and  keep  on  in  this  way  till  the 
mould  is  full.  Cover  with  a  tin  sheet,  pack  it  in  ice,  put  ice  on  the  tin,  and  let  the 
jelly  freeze  for  two  hours.  Turn  it  out  of  the  mould  onto  an  ornamental  dish.  The 
jelly  may  be  garnished  with  crystallized  fruits. 

Kiimmel  Jelly. 

Pour  one  quart  of  cold  water  into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pound  of  granulated 
sugar,  two  ounces  of  gelatine  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  the  grated  rind  of  a 
medium-sized  lemon,  squeezing  in  the  juice  also.  Thoroughly  mix,  and  set  the  sauce- 
pan on  a  hot  stove.  Beat  up  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  add  them  to  the  other  mixture 
grate  in  one  saltspoonful  of  nutmeg,  add  half  a  dozen  cloves  and  one  bay  leaf,  and 
stir  well  with  a  whisk  for  one  minute.  Have  in  readiness  a  jelly-bag  tied  on  a  stand. 
Stir  the  mixture,  and  when  ready  to  boil  place  it  on  a  cooler  part  of  the  stove  to  keep 
it  from  overflowing,  stirring  it  while  boiling  for  six  minutes.  Put  a  vessel  under  the 
jelly-bag,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  pour  all  into  a  bag,  adding  immediately 
one  gill  of  kummel.  Allow  it  to  drain  into  the  vessel,  and  then  return  it  to  the  bag, 
placing  another  vessel  underneath,  and  drain  again  for  fully  two  hours.  Have  ready 
a  quart  jelly-mould,  pour  the  jelly  from  the  vessel  into  it,  set  it  aside  to  cool  for  two 
hours,  and  then  pack  it  in  ice  and  let  harden  for  two  hours  longer.  Dip  the  mould 
into  lukewarm  water,  turn  the  contents  out  on  a  dish,  and  serve  at  once. 

Lemon  Jelly. 

Steep  two  ounces  of  gelatine  in  one-half  pint  of  cold  water  for  one  hour;  then 
mix  with  it  one  and  one-half  pints  of  boiling  water,  brandy  or  sherry  wine,  the  thinly- 
pared  peel  of  one  and  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Boil  all  for  five 


COLD   DESSERTS.  687 

minutes,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  cool;  stir  in  quickly  the  crushed 
shells  and  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  boil  the  jelly  up  again  without  stirring. 
Allow  it  to  settle  for  two  minutes,  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  stir  in  one-half  pint 
of  sherry  mixed  with  a  little  brandy;  pour  the  jelly  into  a  fancy  jelly-mould  and 
leave  till  set.  When  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  dish. 


Madeira  Jelly. 


Dissolve  three  ounces  of  gelatine  and  one-half  pound  of  lump-sugar  in  one 
quart  of  water,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Mix  one  and  one-half 
pints  of  Madeira  wine  with  the  strained  liquor,  turn  the  whole  into  a  copper  whip- 
ping-bowl packed  in  ice,  and  whip  the  jelly  well.  In  about  twenty  minutes  time 
remove  the  jelly  from  the  ice,  and  whip  it  for  ten  minutes  longer.  If  it  has  come  to 
be  too  firm,  stand  the  bowl  in  a  large  basin  of  hot  water,  and  whip  it  for  another 
minute  or  two.  When  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  pour  the  jelly  into  a  mould,  pack  it  in 
ice,  and  leave  it  for  a  couple  of  hours  or  so.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  in 
warm  water  to  loosen  the  contents,  then  wipe  the  edges  of  the  mould  and  turn  out 
the  jelly. 


Maraschino  Jelly. 


Cut  a  calf's  foot  in  pieces,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  in  cold  water,  and  boil  for  two 
minutes;  then  wash  in  cold  water  and  again  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of 
cold  water.  When  boiling,  remove  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  simmer  gently  for  two 
hours  and  a  half,  keeping  it  well  skimmed.  After  that,  strain  the  liquor  into  a  basin, 
and  leave  it  until  it  is  quite  cold;  take  off  all  the  fat,  and  wipe  the  top  off  with  a 
cloth  dipped  in  hot  water.  Turn  the  jelly  onto  a  basin,  scrape  off  all  the  sediment, 
place  the  jelly  in  a  stewpan,  and  melt  it;  then  add  the  juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon,  the 
whites  of  two  whisked  eggs,  and  loaf-sugar  to  taste.  Whisk  this  over  the  fire  until 
boiling,  then  take  it  off;  rinse  a  jelly-bag,  place  the  lemon-rind  at  the  bottom  and 
strain  the  jelly  through.  Flavor  to  taste  with  maraschino,  pour  it  into  a  mould,  and 
stand  it  on  ice.  When  it  is  quite  firm,  dip  the  mould  in  hot  water,  wipe,  turn  the 
jelly  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 


Marbled  Jelly. 


Take  a  jelly-mould,  place  some  pieces  of  sweet  jelly  at  the  bottom;  over  these 
pour  some  more  that  has  had  milk  or  cream  mixed  with  it  to  render  it  white,  so  as  to 
form  the  veins  of  the  marble.  The  jelly  should  be  only  liquid,  for  if  it  is  too  warm 
it  will  melt  the  other,  and  ruin  the  effect.  Allow  the  jelly  to  get  cool  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, then  proceed  as  before,  and  keep  on  in  that  way  until  the  mould  is  full;  pack  it 
in  ice  and  leave  it  until  the  jelly  is  quite  set.  When  ready,  dip  the  mould  in  warm 
water,  and  turn  out  on  a  glass  dish. 


688  COLD    DESSERTS. 


Noyau  Jelly. 


Put  one  ounce  of  isinglass  into  two  gills  of  lukewarm  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  dissolved.  Meanwhile  put  over  the  fire  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar,  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  and  two  gills  of  cold  water,  and  boil  without  stirring  until  a  thick  syrup 
is  formed;  mix  the  syrup  and  one  wineglassful  of  Noyau  liquor  with  the  dissolved 
isinglass,  strain  the  jelly  into  a  mould  set  in  cold  water,  and  allow  it  to  harden  before 
turning  it  out.  Garnish  round  with  preserved  peaches  and  apricots,  alternately,  with 
points  of  angelica  between  them. 

Orange  Jelly. 

Dissolve  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine  in  two  gills  of  boiling  water  and 
strain  it.  Squeeze  the  juice  out  of  a  sufficient  number  of  oranges  to  fill  three  teacups, 
and  sufficient  lemons  to  fill  one  teacup;  mix  the  juices  together,  strain  them,  and  add 
to  the  dissolved  gelatine.  Sweeten  to  taste  with  loaf  sugar,  and  boil  the  whole  for  a 
few  minutes.  Clarify  the  jelly  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and  their  shells  beaten 
together,  and  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag.  Rinse  a  mould  out  with  cold  water,  pour 
the  jelly  into  it,  and  leave  until  set  and  cold.  When  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  jelly 
onto  a  fancy  dish. 


Peach  Jelly. 


Procure  some  large  peaches,  not  too  ripe;  wipe  them  well  and  take  out  the 
stones;  cut  the  peaches  in  quarters,  and  put  them  in  a  covered  jar.  Crack  the  stones, 
cut  the  kernels  into  small  pieces,  and  put  them  in  with  the  peaches.  Set  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  taking  care  it  does  not  come  over  the  top,  and  let  it  boil 
till  the  peaches  are  soft.  Strain  them  through  a  jelly-bag  to  extract  all  the  juice; 
measure  the  juice,  and  put  it  in  a  preserving-pan  with  one  pound  of  sugar  for  every 
pint  of  juice.  Boil  them  for  twenty  minutes  and  skin  carefully.  Turn  the  jelly  into 
glasses  and  when  cold,  lay  a  round  of  paper  that  has  been  dipped  in  brandy  on  each,  put 
another  paper  on  the  top  and  tie  down.  They  will  keep  in  good  condition  for  some 
time. 


Pear  Jelly. 


Select  ripe  juicy  pears  and  cut  them  into  quarters.  Put  them  in  a  preserving-pan 
with  one  pint  of  water  for  every  four  pounds  of  pears,  place  them  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  boil  till  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Put  the  pears  into  a  jelly-bag,  which  should  be  hung 
over  a  basin,  and  let  them  drain  for  twelve  or  fourteen  hours.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  squeeze  the  bag  to  obtain  any  juice  that  may  not  have  run  through  into  the 
basin,  measure  the  juice,  and  put  it  into  the  preserving-pan  with  four  ounces  of  loaf- 
sugar  for  every  breakfast  cupful  of  it.  Flavor  with  a  small  quantity  of  lemon-juice, 
and  boil  it  over  a  brisk  fire  stirring  continually  until  reduced  to  a  jelly.  Turn  the 


COLD   DESSERTS.  689 

jelly  into  small  jars,  leave  it  until  cold,  then  put  a  brandied  paper  on  the  top  of  each 
and  cover  with  parchment,  tieing  it  down  securely.  Keep  the  jars  in  a  dry  store  cup- 
board for  use. 


Plain  Jelly. 


Pare  thinly  the  rinds  of  two  oranges  and  one  lemon  and  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  one-fourth  ounce  of  cinnamon 
broken  into  small  pieces,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  a  small  blade  of  mace,  the  broken 
shells  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine  and  one  and  one- 
half  pints  of  water.  Whisk  all  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  move  it  to  the  side 
and  simmer  for  ten  minutes;  cover  with  one  teaspoonful  of  cochineal  or  caramel, 
strain  through  a  jelly-bag  two  or  three  times,  pour  it  into  a  mould  and  leave  till  set 
before  pouring  out. 


Port   Wine  Jelly. 


Place  in  a  basin  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  together  with  half  that  quantity  of  gum 
arabic  and  mix  in  a  pint  of  port  wine  covering  it  over  with  a  plate  and  leaving  it 
until  the  following  morning,  then  turn  it  into  a  lined  saucepan  and  mix  in  with  it  a 
couple  of  ounces  of  brown  sugar  candy  and  a  small  piece  of  nutmeg,  simmering  it 
gently  until  the  isinglass  is  dissolved.  Then  strain  the  jelly  through  a  fine  hair-sieve 
and  pour  it  into  a  mould,  and  when  it  has  become  quite  cold  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish, 
and  serve. 

Princess   Victoria  Jelly. 

Pour  one  pint  of  milk  into  a  saucepan  and  add  a  small  lump  of  sugar  and  the 
rind  of  half  a  lemon,  one  ounce  of  gelatine,  a  few  bruised  coriander-seeds  and  a 
slight  flavoring  of  vanilla.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  stir  continually  until 
the  gelatine  is  quite  dissolved.  Pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin  and  divide 
into  three  equal  quantities.  Color  one  of  these  with  cochineal,  leaving  the  other  two 
white.  Have  ready  an  equal  quantity  of  jelly  beaten  up  with  gold-leaf.  Pour  half 
the  white  jelly  into  a  shallow  round  tin  mould  packed  in  ice,  allow  it  to  become  firm, 
then  pour  over  the  cochineal-colored  jelly,  and  when  this  has  set  the  gold-leaf  or 
Dantzic  jelly  and  finally  the  balance  of  the  white  or  plain  jelly.  Cover  the  mould 
with  a  lid,  pack  the  top  with  ice  and  allow  it  to  remain  until  the  whole  is  quite  firm. 
Take  out  the  mould,  turn  out  the  contents  and  cut  it  at  once  into  bands  or  strips; 
decorate  the  top  and  sides  of  a  plain  mould  with  these,  fill  the  center  with  any  kind 
of  fruit  and  jelly,  and  pack  the  mould  again  in  ice.  When  set,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto 
a  dish,  and  serve. 

Prune  Jelly. 

Wash  in  a  little  warm  water  a  pound  of  prunes,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
sugar  to  taste,  a  small  piece  of  lemon  peel,  a  stick  of  cinnamon  and  enough  water  to 


690  .  COLD    DESSERTS. 

cover,  stewing  them  until  they  become  quite  tender.  When  done,  remove  the  stones 
and  pass  the  prunes  through  a  fine  hair-sieve;  crack  the  stones  and  mix  the  kernels 
with  the  prunes.  Next  soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and 
mix  it  in  with  the  prunes,  adding  two  wineglassfuls  of  port  wine.  Turn  the  jelly  into 
a  stewpan,  and  boil  it  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  it  all  the  time.  Blanch  two  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds,  and  split  them  lengthwise  into  halves,  ornament  the  inside  of  the 
mould  with  them,  fastening  them  with  a  little  liquid  jelly,  and  stand  it  on  the  ice  to 
cool.  When  ready,  dip  the  mould  quickly  into  hot  water  to  loosen  the  jelly,  wipe  it, 
and  turn  the  contents  onto  a  dish,  pour  around  the  sauce,  and  serve. 


Raspberry  Jelly. 


Remove  the  tops.and  pick  carefully  over  one  pint  of  freshly-gathered  raspberries; 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water,  and  stir  until  they  are  hot,  then  strain 
them  through  a  jelly-bag.  Mix  with  the  liquor  one  ounce  of  dissolved  isinglass  and 
one-half  pound  of  fine  sugar,  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  pass  it  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve.  Pour  the  jelly  into  a  mould,  and  pack  it  in  ice  until  set.  Dip  the 
mould  in  tepid  water,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  dish,  garnish  with  candied  fruit,  and 
serve. 

Red   Jelly. 

Soak  one  ounce  of  isinglass  in  one  pint  of  water,  and  add  the  eighth  part  of  the 
well-beaten  white  of  an  egg,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and,  when  nearly 
melted,  add  one  pound  of  lump-sugar,  broken  small,  and  one-third  of  a  tablespoonful 
of  powdered  cochineal,  and  ten  minutes  before  taking  from  the  fire,  add  the  grated 
rind  of  three  lemons.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  juice  of  four  lemons 
and  one-half  pint  of  white  wine.  Strain  through  a  cotton  cloth,  and,  if  it  looks  thick, 
boil  up  once.  The  saucepan  should  be  kept  covered  while  the  jelly  boils.  Allow  it 
to  stand  and  cool  before  pouring  into  a  mould,  which  should  have  the  inside  dampened 
with  water. 

Rhubarb  Jelly   Border  with   Whipped   Cream. 

Cut  up  into  pieces  three  pounds  of  rhubarb,  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  sugar,  and  pour  over  a  little  water  to  prevent  the  pieces  from 
sticking  to  the  bottom  or  burning.  Set  the  pan  over  a  very  gentle  fire,  and  stir  it 
well  until  the  fruit  is  quite  soft;  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  to 
each  quart  of  pulp  mix  in  two  ounces  of  dissolved  gelatine.  Turn  the  preparation 
into  an  ornamental  border-mould,  and  let  it  set  firm.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  fill  the 
center  with  a  well-whipped  cream,  and  serve. 


COLD    DESSERTS.  691 


Rum  Jelly. 


Put  one  ounce  of  gelatine  into  a  basin  with  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cold  water, 
and  let  it  soak;  then  add  the  strained  juice  and  thin  rind  of  two  lemons,  eight  ounces 
of  stick  cinnamon,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  finally  pour  in  one  and  one-half  tea- 
cupfuls  of  rum.  Beat  well,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  stir 
until  the  gelatine  has  dissolved;  then  add  the  well-whisked  whites  of  two  eggs,  and 
after  it  has  boiled  for  two  or  three  minutes  pass  it  through  a  jelly-bag,  continuing  to 
strain  until  the  jelly  runs  through  clear;  then  stir  in  one  wineglassful  of  brandy. 
Turn  the  jelly  into  a  mould  packed  in  ice,  let  it  get  quite  firm;  then  turn  it  out  onto 
a  dish,  and  serve. 

Russian  Jelly. 

Dissolve  twelve  or  fourteen  sheets  of  French  gelatine  in  a  little  more  than  one 
pint  of  water,  pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  sweeten  with  loaf  sugar  to  taste,  add  the  juice 
of  one  lemon,  the  well-whisked  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  two  liquor  glasses  full  of 
brandy;  whisk  the  whole  over  the  fire  with  an  egg-beater  until  it  boils.  Put  the 
thinly-pared  rind  of  a  lemon  at  the  bottom  of  a  jelly-bag,  and  pour  the  jelly  over. 
When  it  runs  through  quite  clear,  whisk  it  until  very  frothy.  Fill  the  mould  with  the 
jelly,  press  it  down  well,  and  stand  it  in  a  cold  place.  When  quite  cold,  dip  the  mould 
quickly  into  hot  water,  wipe,  turn  the  contents  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 


Jelly   Stock. 


Soak  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine,  then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one 
quart  of  water,  one-half  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  the  beaten  whites  and  shells  of  two 
eggs,  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons  and  one  tablespoonful  of  whole  mixed  spices. 
Boil  the  ingredients  slowly  for  about  half  an  hour,  adding  a  little  more  water  occa- 
sionally to  keep  up  the  original  quantity  of  jelly.  Pass  it  two  or  three  times  through 
a  jelly-bag  till  it  is  quite  clear  and  transparent,  then  pour  it  into  a  basin  and  place  it 
one  side  for  use.  The  stock  can  be  divided  and  made  into  as  many  different  kinds 
as  may  be  desired.  Orange  or  lemon  extracts  should  not  be  used  for  flavorings,  as 
they  dim  the  transparent  clearness  of  the  jelly  and  give  to  it  a  cloudy  appearance. 

St.  Petersburgh  Jelly. 

Warm  one  pint  of  lemon  jelly  and  pour  half  of  it  into  one  basin  and  the  other 
half  into  another.  Color  one  of  these  with  cochineal  and  flavor  the  other  with  noyau. 
When  the  cochineal  jelly  is  nearly  set,  whisk  it  well  and  throw  into  it  the  noyau 
jelly  already  nearly  set  and  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  mixed  up  with  a  few  pistachio- 
nuts  cut  very  fine.  Place  the  whole  in  a  fancy-shaped  mould,  pack  in  ice,  cover  over 
the  top,  pack  ice  on  it,  and  let  it  remain  until  set  and  quite  firm.  Dip  the  mould 
into  warm  water,  wipe  it  dry  with  a  cloth,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 


692  COLD   DESSERTS. 

Strawberry  Jelly. 

Pick  the  stems  from  one  and  one-half  pound  of  strawberries,  put  them  in  a 
basin,  cover  them  with  one  quart  of  syrup  at  30  degrees  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  that  has 
cooled  a  little,  and  let  them  stand  to  steep  for  an  hour.  Whisk  over  the  fire  in  a  stew- 
pan  three  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine,  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  one  quart  of  water.  When  it  boils,  remove  it.  Strain  the  strawberries 
through  a  jelly-bag  and  mix  the  syrup  with  the  gelatine.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a 
mould,  pack  it  in  ice,  cover  it  with  a  baking-sheet,  put  ice  on  the  top  and  let  it 
set  for  two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  dish. 

Tapioca  Jelly. 

Put  one-half  teacupful  of  tapioca  into  a  basin  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cold 
water  and  let  it  steep  for  two  hours,  standing  the  basin  in  a  warm  place.  Pour  two 
more  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  into  a  saucepan,  add  six  or  eight  ounces  of  sugar, 
and  then  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  cut  up  into  shreds,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon.  Boil  for  a  few  minutes,  pour  in  the  tapioca  and  water  and  cook  gently  for 
about  twenty  minutes  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  by  which  time  the  tapioca  should  be 
quite  transparent.  Add  a  little  syrup  of  cranberries  or  burnt  sugar  to  color,  pour  the 
jelly  into  a  mould,  let  it  set,  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  and  serve  with  sweet  cream.  The 
coloring  may  be  dispensed  with  if  desired. 

Vanilla  Jelly. 

Cut  into  pieces  two  vanilla  beans,  pour  over  them  one  quart  of  boiling  water  and 
turn  them  into  a  lined  pan.  Steep  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine  in  one  pint 
of  cold  water  for  thirty  minutes  or  so,  then  strain  it  and  pour  one  pint  of  boiling 
water  over  it.  Put  the  dissolved  gelatine  in  the  pan  with  the  vanilla,  add  three- 
fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  juice  and  finely-shred  peel  of  two  oranges  and  two 
lemons  and  the  shells  and  well-beaten  whites  of  four  or  five  eggs.  Place  the  pan 
over  the  fire  and  stir  the  contents  till  boiling,  then  strain  the  mixture  through  a  jelly- 
bag,  repeating  the  operation  till  it  runs  quite  clear.  Decorate  a  mould  with  dried 
fruits  or  strawberries,  then  pour  in  the  mixture  and  place  it  on  the  ice  until  firm. 
Turn  the  jelly  out  onto  a  fancy  dish,  and  serve  it. 

Venetian  Jelly. 

Put  one  ounce  of  soaked  gelatine  into  a  saucepan  with  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of 
hot  water  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  dissolved ;  then  add  one-fourth  pound  of 
coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar  and  the  juice  of  three  lemons.  Beat  the  whites  and 
shells  of  three  eggs,  stir  them  into  the  jelly  and  boil  for  five  minutes  longer.  Remove 
the  jelly  from  the  fire,  strain  it  and  mix  in  three  wineglassfuls  of  sherry  and  one 


COLD    DESSERTS.  693 

wineglassful  of  brandy.  Decorate  the  interior  of  a  plain  mould  with  small  pieces  of 
candied  peel,  dipping  them  in  the  jelly  to  make  them  stick,  then  half-fill  the  mould 
with  the  jelly  and  leave  until  set.  Put  one-half  ounce  of  soaked  gelatine  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  one-half  pint  of  milk  and  two  ounces  of  sugar;  stir  over  the  fire  until  dis- 
solved; then  move  it  to  the  side  and  mix  in  quickly  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs. 
Move  the  custard  away  from  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  cool.  Moisten  one-half  pound 
of  sponge  cakes  with  as  much  sherry  as  they  will  absorb,  then  lay  them  on  the  top 
of  the  set  jelly  in  the  mould;  when  the  custard  has  sufficiently  cooled  fill  the  mould 
up  with  it  and  place  it  on  ice  for  an  hour  or  two.  When  ready,  dip  the  mould  in  tepid 
water,  wipe  dry  and  turn  it  out  onto  a  fancy  dish. 

Jelly   with    Fruit   Champagne. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  the  whites  of  three  well-beaten  eggs,  three-fourths  of  a  pound 
of  powdered  sugar,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  two  ounces  of  gelatine,  and  one  quart  of 
water  ;  whisk  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils.  Remove  the  jelly  from  the  fire,  strain  it 
two  or  three  times  through  a  jelly-bag  till  quite  clear,  and  when  cold  stir  in  one 
pint  of  champagne.  Make  a  mixed  mince  of  apples  and  pears  which  have  been 
boiled  in  syrup,  and  cut  to  olive-shapes  preserved  apricots,  greengages  and  dried 
cherries.  Pour  a  little  jelly  into  the  bottom  of  a  plain  cylinder-mould,  then  a  layer 
of  fruit,  a  layer  of  jelly,  and  so  on  until  the  mould  is  nearly  full.  Pack  the  mould 
in  ice,  and  when  set  fill  it  up  with  plain  jelly,  place  a  baking-sheet  with  ice  on  it  over 
the  mould,  and  allow  it  to  freeze  for  two  hours.  It  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Jelly   with   Whipped   Cream. 

Prepare  one  and  one-half  pints  of  clear  jelly  flavored  to  taste.  Rinse  the  inside 
of  a  cylinder-mould  with  clear  cold  water,  fill  it  with  the  jelly,  and  stand  it  on  the  ice 
to  set.  Whip  three-fourths  of  a  pint  of  cream  together  with  a  glass  of  white  wine 
and  a  little  sugar.  When  the  jelly  is  firm,  turn  it  onto  a  dish,  fill  the  center  with 
whipped  cream,  pour  a  small  quantity  round  the  dish,  garnish  the  jelly  with  candied 
cherries,  and  serve. 

Lemon    Froth. 

Soak  two  ounces  of  gelatine  and  dissolve  it  in  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  then 
pour  in  one  pint  of  cold  water  and  add  the  peels  and  strained  juice  of  six  lemons. 
Let  it  stand  until  it  commences  to  set,  then  take  out  the  peels  and  add  the  whites  of 
a  dozen  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  When  well  beaten  into  the  jelly,  turn  into  a 
glass  bowl,  garnish  with  ratafias,  and  serve. 

Maraschino    Cheese. 

Melt  a  little  isinglass  in  hot  water  ;  whip  one  and  one-half  pints  of  thick  cream 
to  a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  with  it  the  dissolved  isinglass,  the  strained  juice  of  one  lemon, 


694  COLD  DESSERTS. 

and  three  wineglassfuls  of  maraschino.  Stir  the  above  over  ice  until  well  mixed  and 
on  the  point  of  freezing,  then  turn  it  into  a  mould  and  pack  it  in  ice  till  quite  firm. 
When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water,  wipe,  and  turn  the  cheese  onto  a 
glass  or  fancy  dish. 

Meringues. 

Put  in  a  pan  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  place  it 
on  the  hot  stove.  Have  two  quarts  of  ice- water  in  a  bowl,  and  when  the  sugar  comes 
to  the  boil  dip  the  fingers  in  the  ice-water  and  pass  them  quickly  round  the  inside  of  the 
sugar-pan  after  boiling  for  five  minutes.  Dip  a  wooden  stick  in  the  ice-water,  then  in  the 
sugar,  and  again  in  the  ice-water,  lifting  up  the  stick  to  feel  the  sugar  that  adheres. 
If  it  cannot  be  formed  into  a  ball,  boil  it  a  little  longer,  and  when  it  is  ready,  remove  it 
from  the  fire  so  that  it  no  longer  boils.  While  the  sugar  is  cooking  beat  the  whites 
of  five  eggs  in  a  copper  basin,  and  while  beating  place  the  sugar  in  very  carefully  ; 
when  all  is  added,  lay  the  basin  in  ice-water.  Mix  this  gently  for  five  minutes,  adding 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  flavoring.  Cover  the  basin  with  a  napkin,  leaving  it  for  ten 
minutes.  Butter  and  flour  a  baking-sheet ;  slide  a  fancy  tube  into  a  silk  bag,  fill  the 
bag  with  the  preparation,  press  it  out  on  the  baking-sheet  in  the  shape  of  letters. 
Sprinkle  lightly  with  powdered  sugar,  place  in  a  very  slow  oven  and  bake  for  fifteen 
minutes.  When  they  are  baked,  these  cakes  should  be  white.  Remove  them  from 
the  oven,  let  them  get  cold,  dress  on  a  glass  stand,  and  serve. 


Almond   Meringues. 


Put  the  whites  of  a  few  eggs  in  a  bowl  and  whisk  to  a  stiff  froth,  adding  some 
powdered  sugar;  continue  to  whisk  vigorously  and  mix  in  as  much  of  sweet  almonds 
finely-chopped  and  blanched  as  there  was  sugar  used.  Drop  the  mixture  onto  pieces 
of  thin  paper,  and  put  them  to  dry  in  a  drying-closet  or  slow  oven  with  the  door 
open.  Take  them  out,  carefully  remove  the  paper  either  by  dampening  or  easing 
with  a  knife,  and  arrange  on  a  dish,  serving  them  quite  cold  and  dry. 

Apple   Meringue. 

Pare  and  core  seven  large  apples  and  bake  in  a  shallow  plate  until  soft  but  not 
broken.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-powdered 
sugar,  a  little  salt  and  a  pint  of  scalded  milk.  Pour  this  over  the  baked  apples,  which 
have  been  piled  up  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid.  Bake  until  the  custard  is  firm;  then 
remove  and  allow  to  cool.  Make  a  meringue  of  the  whites  of  the  three  eggs  by  beat- 
ing them  till  foamy,  gradually  adding  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  a 
little  lemon,  flavoring  and  beat  until  quite  stiff.  Place  this  over  the  apples  and  place 
in  the  oven  to  brown. 


COLD    DESSERTS.  695 

Chocolate   Meringues. 

Put  the  whites  of  three  eggs  in  a  basin  with  one  pound  of  finely-crushed  sugar, 
beat  well  for  about  fifteen  minutes;  then  add  three  more  whites,  putting  them  in 
singly  and  beating  one  up  well  before  another  one  is  added;  then  mix  in  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  vanilla  and  three  ounces  of  grated  chocolate.  Put  this  in  a  biscuit 
forcer,  let  it  drop  on  a  well-buttered  baking-sheet,  place  the  meringues  in  a  slow 
oven  and  bake  for  a  few  minutes 

( 

Florentine   Meringues. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan  with  a  sheet  of  puff-paste  rolled  out  thin, 
spread  some  jelly  over  it  and  cover  all  with  meringue-paste  mixed  with  chopped 
almonds.  Sprinkle  over  with  sugar,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cut  into  squares. 

Italian   Meringues. 

Place  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  in  a  boiler  and  boil  to  the  blow  degree 
and  place  the  boiler  in  a  large  basin  of  cold  water  to  set  the  sugar.  Work  the  sugar 
against  the  side  of  the  pan;  when  it  is  nearly  transparent  pour  in  the  whites  of  four 
eggs,  then  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  liqueur  glassful  of  liqueur  and  mix  thor- 
oughly. Have  some  strips  of  paper  arranged  on  a  board,  place  on  them  small  quan- 
tities of  the  paste  arranged  in  the  shape  of  eggs  and  bake  in  the  oven  with  the  door 
open  until  they  begin  to  color.  Take  them  out  and  off  the  paper  and  they  are 
ready  for  use.  They  require  to  be  dried  rather  than  baked;  therefore  the  oven  must 
not  be  hot  enough  to  color  a  piece  of  paper.  The  paste  previous  to  being  made  can 
be  colored  either  brown  or  saffron  with  chocolate  or  a  light-rose  pink  with  a  few 
drops  of  cochineal.  In  making  these  meringues  more  sugar  is  used  than  for  the 
ordinary  ones;  therefore  they  do  not  require  to  be  dredged  with  sugar  before  they 
are  baked.  They  should  be  taken  off  the  paper  and  pressed  together  or  they  can  be 
scooped  in  the  center  and  be  filled  with  cream;  they  may  also  be  covered  with  trans- 
parent ice  by  dipping  them  in  it. 

Meringue    Kisses. 

Whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  as  stiff  a  froth  as  possible,  then  beat  in  very 
gradually,  one  teaspoonful  at  a  time,  one-half  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar,  add 
six  drops  of  lemon  essence,  and  beat  all  together  very  thoroughly.  Take  a  square 
tin  pan,  place  a  sheet  of  wet  paper  at  the  bottom,  and  drop  onto  it,  at  equal  distances, 
small  spoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly.  With  a  larger  spoon  take  some  of  the  beaten 
egg  and  sugar  and  pile  it  over  each  lump  of  jelly,  so  as  to  cover  entirely,  dropping  it 
on  as  smoothly  as  possible,  so  as  to  make  the  meringues  smooth  and  round.  Bake 
them  in  a  cool  oven  till  each  two  that  have  been  placed  together  adhere  to  one  another. 


696  COLD    DESSERTS. 

Lemon   Meringue. 

Soak  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  stale  breadcrumbs  in  one  quart  of  new  milk,  then 
stir  with  them  one  breakfast  cupful  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  the  grated 
rind  of  a  lemon.  Beat  these  until  light,  then  pour  into  a  buttered  baking-dish  and 
bake  like  a  custard,  spreading  some  fruit  jelly  over  the  meringue.  Beat  the  whites 
of  four  eggs  together  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  juice  of  one 
lemon  to  a  stiff  froth,  spread  it  over  the  top,  and  bake  till  brown.  Serve  either  hot 
or  cold. 

Peach    Meringue. 

Peel  some  ripe  peaches  and  stew  them.  When  nearly  done,  mix  some  sugar  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  butter  with  them.  Butter  a  deep  pie-dish,  line  it  with  short  paste 
and  bake.  Remove  the  crust  from  the  oven,  put  the  stewed  fruit  in  it,  cover  with  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  and  sweetened  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  put  it  back  in  the  oven  to  brown  lightly.  Serve  either  hot 
or  cold. 


Pineapple    Meringue. 


Peel  a  medium-sized  pineapple,  slice  and  then  cut  into  pieces  about  an  inch  in 
length  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  place  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  half  pound  of 
crushed  loaf-sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  water,  stirring  it  well  over  the  fire  until  it  is 
reduced  to  a  rather  thick  syrup;  then  pour  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  into  a  saucepan 
over  the  fire,  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil  put  into  it  the  trimmings. of  the  pineapple, 
cover  it  with  the  lid,  and  steep  for  about  ten  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs, 
strain  the  milk  and  stir  it  gradually  in  with  them;  then  pour  the  milk  and  eggs  again 
into  the  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thick,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 
Press  the  cream  through  a  silk  sieve  into  a  basin  and  mix  the  pineapple  and  the  syrup 
with  it.  When  cold,  put  the  cream  in  a  freezing-pot  and  work  well  over  the  ice  until 
it  is  frozen.  Then  put  the  frozen  cream  in  a  plain,  oval-shaped  mould,  filling  it  to 
the  top,  close  tightly,  and  pack  well  in  pounded  ice  and  salt.  Boil  four  ounces  of 
sugar  to  the  sixth  degree,  and  whip  the  whites  of  five  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  mix  the 
sugar  with  them  and  leave  until  cold.  Turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  quickly  over 
a  dish  that  has  been  placed  on  ice,  pour  the  meringue  over,  and  put  in  a  hot  oven 
just  to  set,  and  lightly  brown  the  meringue  and  take  out  and  serve  it  at  once. 


Meringue    Shells. 


Prepare  a  meringue  mixture.  Slide  a  tube  down  a  pastry-bag,  lay  a  piece  of 
paper  over  a  baking-sheet,  and  after  putting  the  meringue  into  the  bag,  press  it  out 
into  the  paper,  giving  it  an  egg-shape  two  and  one-half  inches  long  by  one  inch  in 
height.  There  should  be  sufficient  to  make  eighteen  equal-sized  shells.  Be  careful 


COLD  DESSERTS.  697 

to  keep  them  about  one  inch  apart.  Sprinkle  liberally  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
place  in  a  slow  oven  to  bake  for  half  an  hour.  Remove,  allow  it  to  cool  for  twenty- 
five  minutes,  turn  the  paper  containing  the  shells  upside  down  on  the  table,  and  with 
a  wet  cloth  or  brush  moisten  the  paper  well;  turn  it  over  once  more  and  leave  for  two 
minutes,  when  the  shells  can  be  easily  detached.  With  the  finger  press  them  gently, 
one  by  one,  at  the  bottom,  into  a  perfect  shell-shape.  Return  to  the  baking-sheet, 
laying  them  upside  down,  place  them  in  the  oven  to  dry  thoroughly  for  ten  minutes, 
and  leave  to  cool  for  thirty  minutes  longer.  Keep  them  in  a  dry  place,  either  in  a  tin 
or  paper  box,  and  use  when  required.  Meringue  shells  prepared  in  this  way  will 
keep  well  for  nearly  or  quite  a  month. 

Strawberry   Meringue. 

Beat  one  breakfast  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  with  five  or  six  eggs  for  a  few  min- 
utes, then  add  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  warmed  butter  and  one  teacupful  of  milk; 
mix  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  with  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  flour,  then  sift 
it  gradually  into  the  above  mixture,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
large  shallow  baking-pan,  spreading  it  thinly,  but  making  it  thicker  around  the  edges 
than  in  the  middle,  as  the  paste  is  liable  to  rise  in  the  center.  Bake  the  cake,  and 
then  put  a  layer  of  freshly-picked  strawberries  on  the  top,  cover  them  with  meringue, 
then  place  the  cake  in  the  oven  for  a  minute  or  two.  When  lightly  colored  on  the 
top,  take  the  cake  out  of  the  oven,  cut  it  into  squares,  and  serve. 

Orange  Baskets. 

Select  some  oranges  with  a  clear  skin,  and,  with  a  blunt  knife,  mark  out  the 
handle  and  rim  of  the  baskets  in  Vandykes.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  through  the  rind 
over  the  traced  lines,  taking  care  not  to  cut  through  the  pulp.  Take  off  the  two 
spare  pieces  of  peel,  and,  with  the  handle  of  a  teaspoon,  carefully  take  out  all  the 
pulp  from  the  basket.  Fill  up  the  baskets  with  orange  jelly  or  whipped  cream,  and 
decorate  with  crystalized  flowers;  put  a  large  flat  of  sponge-cake  in  the  center  of  a 
dish  that  has  had  a  napkin  spread  over  it,  put  one  basket  on  top  of  the  cake,  and 
surround  with  the  remainder.  Any  form  of  extra  ornamentations  can  be  put  in  the 
basket. 

Orange    Butter. 

Boil  twelve  eggs  until  hard,  peel,  cut  them  into  halves,  and  put  their  yolks  in  a 
mortar  with  two  ounces  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  two  ounces  of  blanched 
and  chopped  sweet  almonds;  pound  the  whole  to  a  smooth  paste,  moistening  it  occa- 
sionally with  orange-flower  water,  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve  onto  a  glass  dish. 
Serve  the  butter  with  any  kind  of  sweet  or  fancy  biscuits. 


698  COLD  DESSERTS. 

Orange   Salad. 

Peel  six  oranges, -scrape  off  all  the  pith,  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Take  out  the 
pips,  put  a  layer  of  the  slices  on  a  dish,  and  sprinkle  over  them  some  powdered 
sugar  and  a  little  brandy  or  rum.  Continue  in  this  way  until  they  are  all  used  up, 
and  serve.  They  may  be  piled  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid. 

Oranges,    French   Style. 

Cut  six  oranges  into  halves,  remove  all  the  insides,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the 
rinds;  notch  evenly  round  the  edges  of  the  rinds,  and  put  them  into  cold  water  to 
soak.  Squeeze  out  all  the  juice  from  the  pulp,  strain  it  into  a  saucepan,  pour  in  water 
to  make  three  gills  in  all,  add  one  and  one-half  ounce  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  one 
and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  water,  also  six  ounces  of  sugar,  the  thin  rind  and  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  the  whites  and  crushed  shells  of  three  eggs.  Whisk  well  over  the  fire 
until  the  liquor  boils,  remove  the  whisk,  put  the  lid  on  the  pan,  and  boil  slowly  for 
ten  minutes.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  let  it  stand  for  five  minutes,  and  strain 
through  a  jelly-bag  until  clear;  wipe  the  orange  peels  perfectly  dry,  fill  them  level 
with  the  jelly,  packing  them  in  ice  to  keep  them  firm,  heap  up  on  top  one-half  pint 
of  cream  beaten  stiff,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  crushed  loaf-sugar  and  a  few  drops  of 
vanilla;  place  a  sweetmeat  on  the  top  of  each,  and  serve  on  a  dessert-dish. 

Frosted    Peaches. 

Take  two  dozen  ripe  peaches  and  rub  the  fur  off  with  a  soft  cloth.  Beat  the 
whites  of  six  eggs  and  one  teacupful  of  water  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  dip  the  peaches 
into  it  one  at  a  time,  rolling  each  one  immediately  in  powdered  white  sugar,  then  lay 
them  stem  end  downwards,  on  white  paper,  on  a  tray;  place  it  in  a  window  well 
exposed  to  the  sun;  when  half  dry,  roll  them  again  in  sugar  and  place  in  the  sun  till 
quite  dry;  then  keep  in  a  cool  place  till  wanted  for  use.  Arrange  them  in  a  glass 
dish,  and  garnish  with  green  leaves. 

Pear   Salad. 

Peel  and  core  some  ripe  pears,  cut  them  in  thin  slices,  and  lay  them  in  a  glass 
dish,  sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over  them,  pour  in  a  little  brandy  or  rum,  and  serve. 

Stuffed    Pears. 

Select  a  large  pear,  not  too  ripe,  and  peel  it,  but  do  not  remove  the  stalk.  Cut 
the  pear  lengthwise  about  two-thirds  of  its  height  from  the  side  on  which  it  is  lying. 
Take  out  the  inside  with  a  vegetable-spoon.  Cook  the  pieces  of  pear  by  boiling  in  a 
little  sugar  and  water,  but  keep  them  firm,  and  leave  in  the  syrup  till  cold.  Drain  the 


COLD    DESSERTS.  699 

pear  on  a  cloth.  Put  a  layer  of  cooked  rice  and  cream  on  a  dish,  put  the  thick  part 
of  the  pear  on  it,  fill  the  hollow  with  a  salpicon  of  fruits  thickened  with  a  little  apricot 
marmalade,  put  the  other  piece  of  pear  on  the  top,  and  arrange  a  circle  of  crystallized 
green  gages  round  it.  Reduce  the  syrup  flavor  with  a  little  vanilla  extract,  and  pour 
it,  when  cold,  over  the  pear. 

Apple   Pies. 

Use  either  a  good  puff-paste  or  rub  together  half  a  pound  of  butter  to  every 
pound  of  flour  used,  until  evenly  mixed  ;  then  pour  in  a  little  cold  water  and  salt,  and 
stir  up  with  two  fingers  drawing  in  the  flour  gradually.  Spread  some  of  the  flour  on 
the  table,  and  pat  the  paste  into  a  smooth  mass  in  it ;  roll  out  the  paste  once,  fold  up 
as  you  would  a  napkin,  and  it  is  ready  to  use.  Cover  each  patty-pan  with  a  layer  of 
paste,  rolled  thin.  Peel  some  good  apples,  slice  them  off  the  cores  into  the  pie,  and 
cover  with  another  crust;  cut  off  the  edges  by  pressing  with  both  hands  against  the 
patty-pan,  turning  it  round  at  the  same  time.  Bake  in  a  slack  oven  until  the  apples 
are  done,  say  from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes.  If  desired,  a  little  nutmeg  or  cinnamon 
may  be  added,  dredge  a  little  flour  over  and  add  before  the  top  crust  is  put  on. 
A  little  sugar  dusted  over  the  top  after  they  are  baked  improves  the  appearance. 

Apple    Custard    Pie. 

Peel,  core  and  chop  up  enough  apples  to  make  the  number  of  pies  desired,  stew 
them  in  not  more  than  sufficient  water  to  keep  them  from  burning.  When  done,  mash 
well,  and  add  to  each  quart  of  fruit  the  following:  Four  eggs  (well  beaten),  one  pint 
of  sweet  milk,  four  ounces  of  butter  (melted),  a  grated  nutmeg,  one  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  and  a  half  pound  of  powdered  sugar.  When  the  apples  are  cool,  stir 
all  up  together  and  bake  in  a  rich  pastry  crust. 

Apricot   Pie. 

Take  an  ordinary  pie-dish  and  make  sufficient  tart  paste,  according  to  the  size 
of  tart  proposed  to  be  made  ;  lay  closely  pressed  around  the  border  of  the  dish,  pre- 
viously moistened,  a  band  of  paste  three  inches  wide  and  a  sixth  of  an  inch  thick. 
Within  the  dish  arrange  halves  of  apricots  to  fill  it  (unripe  fruit  will  do  for  these 
pies),  a  little  sugar  and  an  ounce  or  two  of  butter.  Roll  out  some  more  paste  to 
make  a  crust,  and,  wetting  the  band,  cover  over  with  the  sheet  of  paste,  press  the 
edges  down,  and  trim.  Brush  over  the  top  with  the  white  of  egg  and  strew  finely- 
broken  sugar  over  it.  Bake  for  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  and  serve  hot. 

Banana   Cream    Pie. 

Put  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  basin  and  warm  it  together  with  a  little  crushed  loaf- 
sugar,  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs,  a  little  milk  and  sherry  or  angelica,  and 


7oo  COLD  DESSERTS. 

some  pulp  of  bananas  mashed  thoroughly.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  deep  dish,  stir- 
ring in  the  well-whipped  whites  of  a  couple  of  eggs;  place  the  dish  in  a  moderate 
oven  and  bake  until  done,  taking  care  not  to  bake  too  quickly.  Then  remove  and 
serve. 

Cherry   Pie. 

Remove  the  stones  from  the  necessary  amount  of  cherries  and  then  scald  the 
fruit  in  their  own  juice,  sweeten  well,  and  pour  into  a- deep  pie-dish  lined  with  a  rich 
paste.  Dredge  with  flour,  cover  with  a  top  crust  of  the  same  paste,  ornament  the 
edge,  and  put  in  the  oven  to  bake. 

Cocoanut   Pies. 

Pour  one  cupful  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  boil  and  sprinkle  in  one  tablespoonful 
of  corn  starch  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar;  when  these  are  incorporated, 
add  a  lump  of  butter,  one  pinch  of  salt  and  two  ounces  of  grated  cocoanut.  Pour 
the  mixture  in  a  basin,  let  it  cool,  add  the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  put 
the  mixture  into  pans  lined  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  until  done. 

Cocoanut  Custard  Pies. 

Put  two  eggs  in  a  basin,  beat  them  with  two  cupfuls  of  milk  and  four  ounces  of 
sugar,  add  one  cupful  of  grated  cocoanut  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  lemon. 
Put  the  mixture  into  a  puff  paste,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Cranberry    Pie. 

Plunge  one  quart  of  cranberries  into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  salted,  and  let  them 
stand  for  twelve  hours,  when  they  will  need  to  be  washed  in  several  waters  to  remove 
the  salt  flavor.  Then  take  them  out,  drain  and  put  on  a  cloth  to  dry.  Pick  them 
over  carefully  and  put  into  a  basin  with  four  ounces  of  caster-sugar  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  squeezed  over  them.  Stir  together  well  and,  if  thought  desirable,  add 
a  wineglassful  of  any  white  wine.  Fill  up  a  pie-dish  with  the  fruit,  cover  over  the 
top  with  a  light  paste,  put  the  pie  in  the  oven,  and  bake  until  done.  Sprinkle  over 
powdered  sugar,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Cream  Pie. 

Mix  one-half  pound  of  sugar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  quart  of  milk, 
and  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  together,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan;  season 
with  a  little  wine,  grated  nutmeg,  lemon  or  vanilla,  and  boil  the  mixture  for  twenty 
minutes.  Prepare  some  rich  pastry,  line  a  shallow  dish,  bake  lightly  and  fill  up  with 
the  cream,  then  bake  again  until  it  is  quite  done.  Take  a  little  sugar  and  some  of  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  and  make  a  meringue,  pour  it  over  the  pie,  and  put  into  a  hot 
closet  or  warming-oven  to  brown  lightly. 


COLD  DESSERTS.  701 

Currant    Pie. 

Prepare  the  currants  by  removing  the  stalks,  leaves  and  any  unsound  fruit;  place 
them  in  a  dish  with  sufficient  caster-sugar  to  sweeten,  and  pour  over  a  little  boiling 
water.  Put  the  dish  in  the  oven  to  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then  take  it  out  and 
cool.  When  the  fruit  is  cold,  pour  it  into  a  pie-dish,  cover  over  with  light  puff  paste, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  done. 

Custard  Pie. 

Line  a  pie-dish  with  crust;  put  six  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  until  quite  light, 
then  add  two  ounces  of  finely-powdered  white  sugar  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk, 
and  mix  well;  put  this  into  the  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 
Take  it  out  and  grate  a  little  nutmeg  over  the  top.  If  it  is  to  be  served  cold,  stand 
it  in  cold  water  in  a  cool  place,  because  if  it  does  not  cool  at  once  the  crust  gets 
soaked  and  spoiled. 

Fruit    Pie. 

Mix  half  a  tablespoonful  of  arrow-root  with  a  little  cold  water  until  smooth  and 
put  it  into  a  lined  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  juice  from  any  kind  of  canned  fruit, 
sweeten  to  taste  with  powdered  sugar,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  boiling  and  thickened.  Put  about  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  canned  fruit  and 
juice  into  a  pie- dish  and  pour  the  thickened  juice  over  it.  Put  one  teacupful  of  well- 
washed  rice  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  and  boil  it  until  reduced 
to  a  pulp.  Beat  two  eggs  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  and  stir 
them  in  with  the  rice  when  it  is  cooked.  Spread  the  rice  out  onto  a  dish  and  leave 
it  until  cool,  then  work  it  up  with  a  little  flour;  mould  it  into  a  flat  cake  that  will  just 
fit  in  the  pie-dish,  lay  it  on  top  of  the  fruit,  brush  it  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped 
in  beaten  egg,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  until  browned.  It  may  be  served  either  hot 
or  cold. 

Gooseberry    Pie. 

Line  the  edges  of  a  deep  pie-dish  with  rich  puff  paste,  fill  the  dish  with  cleaned 
and  picked  gooseberries  and  put  half  a  pound  of  moist  sugar  with  them;  pour  in  a 
little  water,  cover  the  pie  with  more  puff  paste  moistening  the  edges  so  they  will 
stick  to  the  undercrust,  cut  it  evenly  all  round,  make  a  slit  in  the  top  with  a  knife, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked  take  it  out,  sprinkle  powdered  sugar 
over,  and  serve  with  a  good  custard. 

Lemon    Pie. 

( I.)  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn  starch  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  hot  water, 
pour  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Then  mix  in  the  grated 
rinds  and  juice  of  two  lemons  and  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar ;  when 


702  COLD  DESSERTS. 

cool  stir  in  the  yolks  of  four  well-beaten  eggs,  line  some  buttered  plates  with  a  good 
rich  crust,  pour  the  mixture  in,  and  bake  until  the  crust  is  done.  Beat  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  together  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  when  very  light  and  frothy 
pour  it  over  the  pies,  place  them  in  the  oven  again,  and  bake  till  slightly  browned. 
Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

(2.)  Make  a  good  paste,  and  line  a  deep  pie-dish  with  it.  Stir  together  the 
following :  The  grated  rinds  and  juice  of  two  lemons,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  finely- 
chopped  raisins,  one  teacupful  of  cracker-dust,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  boiling  water, 
and  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Stir  all  these  ingredients  in  a 
saucepan  over  the  fire  until  they  boil,  and  then  fill  the  dish  with  them;  put  an  upper 
crust  on  the  pie,  wetting  the  edges  to  make  it  adhere,  brush  the  surface  with  beaten 
eggs,  make  two  or  three  little  cuts  in  it,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  well- 
browned. 

Lemon-Cream    Pies. 

Line  some  small  buttered  plates  with  a  good  short  paste,  and  bake  until  lightly 
browned.  Boil  one  pint  of  milk,  then  put  with  it  one  teacupful  of  powdered  sugar ; 
mix  together  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  pour 
over  a  little  of  the  milk  gradually  to  form  a  thick  paste,  then  mix  all  together  and 
whisk  it  over  the  fire.  When  the  flour  is  cooked,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  large 
lump  of  butter,  and  four  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  continue  stirring  over  the  fire, 
but  be  careful  to  remove  it  before  the  eggs  curdle.  Pour  the  cream  into  the  plates 
of  crusts,  and  serve  when  cold. 

Mince    Pies. 

Prepare  some  puff,  short  or  tart-paste,  and  ro41  it  on  a  floured  table  to  the  thick- 
ness of  one-fourth  of  an  inch.  Butter  some  large  pie-plates  and  line  them  with  the 
paste;  fill  each  one  with  mincemeat,  cover  with  rounds  of  the  paste,  trim  round  the 
edges,  moisten  and  press  them  together.  Bake  for  about  thirty  minutes  in  a  brisk 
oven.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth;  take  out  the  pies  when 
cooked,  dip  a  paste-brush  in  the  beaten  egg,  and  brush  them  over  with  it.  Sprinkle 
sugar  over  each  and  place  them  in  the  oven  again  to  glaze  for  two  or  three  minutes. 
Arrange  the  pies  on  a  folded  napkin  placed  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  sprigs  of  holly,  and 
serve  while  they  are  very  hot. 

Lemon    Mince   Pies. 

/ 

Line  some  buttered  patty-pans  with  thinly  rolled  puff  paste,  fill  them  half  full 
of  the  lemon  mincemeat,  put  a  round  of  paste  on  the  top  of  each,  press  together 
round  the  edges,  dip  a  paste-brush  in  egg  beaten  together  with  a  little  water,  brush 
the  tops  of  the  patties  over,  sprinkle  powdered  sugar  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  mod- 


COLD  DESSERTS.  703 

erate   oven.     When   cooked   take   them   out  of  the   pans,  place   them  on  a  dish,  and 
serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Peach   Pie. 

Peal  the  peaches,  cut  them  in  slices  and  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan;  crack  the 
stones  and  put  in  the  peeled  kernels,  using  for  every  pound  of  peaches  four  ounces 
crushed  loaf-sugar  and  one  cupful  of  water.  Cover  and  let  them  cook  slowly.  Mash 
the  peaches  in  a  colander,  line  some  buttered  shallow  tins  with  pie-crust,  fill  them 
with  the  peaches,  and  bake.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


Pumpkin    Pie. 


Boil  and  strain  the  pumpkins,  allowing  for  three  pints  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
four  eggs,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  two  quarts  of  milk.  Stir  all  well  together  while  the  pumpkin  is  hot. 
Butter  a  pie-dish,  line  it  with  a  thin  layer  of  short  paste,  put  the  mixture  into  it  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  a  little  less  than  one  hour.  Serve  the  pie  while  hot. 

Raspberry    Pie. 

Remove  the  stems  from  a  pound  or  more  of  raspberries,  place  them  in  layers  in 
a  tart-dish,  sprinkle  sugar  between  the  layers,  raising  the  fruit  to  a  point  to  a  level 
above  the  dish.  Place  a  strip  of  puff  paste  round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  cover  the 
whole  with  a  round  of  the  paste,  ornament  it,  sprinkle  it  over  with  sugar,  place  it  in 
a  moderate  oven  and  bake  it  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  done  take 
it  out  and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

Rhubarb    Pie. 

Pare  off  all  the  leaves  and  peel  the  stalks  from  two  bunches  of  fine  rhubarb; 
cut  them  into  pieces  about  half  an  inch  in  length,  put  them  in  a  basin  with  three 
ounces  of  powdered  loaf-sugar  and  mix  them  well.  Place  them  in  a  pie-dish,  cover 
with  paste,  brush  the  surface  with  beaten  egg  and  bake  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
in  a  brisk  oven.  Move  the  pan  to  the  oven  door,  sprinkle  over  powdered  loaf-sugar. 
Then  place  it  in  the  oven  again  to  melt  the  sugar.  Take  it  out  when  done,  and  serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 


Pineapple   Glace. 


Carefully  peel  and  remove  all  discolored  portions  of  a  pineapple  and  cut  it  into 
slices  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  Place  in  a  preserving-pan  a  pound  of  crushed 
loaf-sugar  and  a  pint  of  water  and  boil  for  ten  minutes;  put  in  the  sliced  pineapple  and 
boil  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Remove  the  slices  of  pineapple  and  place  them  on 
a  sieve,  to  dry  either  in  the  sun  or  near  the  fire  for  about  half  an  hour.  Boil  up  the 


704  COLD  DESSERTS. 

syrup,  reduce  it  until  quite  hard,  and  then  dip  into  it  the  slices  of  pineapple,  put  them 
on  a  buttered  plate,  and  dust  with  caster-sugar.  When  they  become  well-dried  and 
hardened,  put  some  fresh  green  leaves  in  a  glass  dish,  put  in  the  slices  of  pineapple, 
and  serve. 

Pineapple   Salad. 

Peel  a  couple  of  very  ripe  pineapples  cutting  out  the  eyes;  shred  thoroughly, 
throwing  away  the  core.  Place  the  shredded  fruit  in  a  compote-dish;  then  mix  half 
a  pint  of  white-sugar  syrup  and  a  tablespoonful  each  of  brandy  and  curacoa;  pour 
this  mixture  over  the  fruit,  and  serve. 

Glazed    Pistachios. 

Procure  a  dome-shaped  mould,  and  place  it  in  a  large  basin  or  bowl  and  pack 
around  it  broken  salted  ice;  divide  in  halves  a  handful  of  blanched  pistachios  and 
macerate  them  as  follows:  Pour  one  pint  of  well-whipped  cream  on  a  strainer  to 
drain,  place  in  a  basin  and  mix  in  enough  sugar  flavored  with  vanilla  to  sweeten  it; 
when  the  nuts  are  well-drained,  take  out  a  small  quantity  of  the  mixture  at  a  time 
with  a  skimmer,  place  it  in  the  mould,  sprinkle  over  a  few  of  the  pistachios,  and  con- 
tinue in  the  same  way  until  the  mould  is  filled,  then  cover  it  with  the  lid,  hermetically 
seal  it  with  flour  and  water  paste  and  pack  it  completely  in  ice,  letting  it  remain 
there  for  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Then  turn  out  onto  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish, 
and  serve. 

Prunes,    Russian   Style. 

Put  a  pound  of  prunes  in  a  pan  with  a  small  amount  of  water,  sugar  them  to  the 
taste  and  stew  them  gently  until  tender,  then  take  out  the  stones  from  the  prunes, 
crack  them  and  put  the  kernels  in  with  the  fruit.  Decorate  the  sides  of  a  cylinder- 
mould  with  blanched  and  split  sweet  almonds,  using  a  small  quantity  of  liquid  jelly 
to  make  them  adhere,  and  then  carefully  pour  in  layers  of  the  prunes  and  jelly.  Put 
the  mould  in  ice  and  leave  it  until  the  contents  are  quite  firm.  Sweeten  some  cream 
to  taste  with  powdered  sugar,  flavor  it  with  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  almonds,  and 
then  whip  it  to  a  stiff  froth.  When  the  jelly  is  ready,  dip  the  mould  into  hot  water, 
wipe  it  and  turn  the  contents  out  onto  a  glass  dish,  fill  the  hollow  up  with  the  cream, 
and  serve. 

American   Black   Pudding. 

Put  a  quart  of  small  berries,  such  as  blue  or  elderberries,  into  a  saucepan  with 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  pint  of  water,  cooking  until  the  berries  are  done; 
then  cut  a  small  loaf  into  thin  slices,  butter  them  well  and  put  a  layer  of  them  at  the 
bottom  of  a  pie  dish,  pour  over  a  small  quantity  of  the  berry  mixture,  and  fill  up  the 
dish  in  this  manner.  Place  in  a  cool  spot,  and  when  it  is  thoroughly  cold  serve  with 
cream  and  sugar. 


COLD  DESSERTS.  705 

Baden    Baden    Pudding. 

Wash  thoroughly  a  teacupful  of  rice  and  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of 
stick  vanilla  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  boiling  until  soft.  Just  previous  to  the  rice 
becoming  fully  cooked,  put  in  half  an  ounce  of  dissolved  gelatine  and  boil  it;  sweeten 
a  pint  of  cream  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  whip  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  when 
cooked  take  the  rice  from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool  slightly,  then  stir  in  the  cream  at 
once.  Rinse  a  mould  with  cold  water,  pour  in  the  mixture  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place 
until  firm.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  into  tepid  water,  wipe  it  and  turn  the 
pudding  out  onto  a  dish  covered  with  a  fancy  dish-paper  or  folded  napkin  garnished 
with  preserved  fruit. 

Chestnut   Pudding  with    Fruits. 

Put  a  cheese-mould  in  ice  and  salt  pounded  together,  keeping  it  well  covered. 
Dissolve  six  gelatine  leaves  and  one-half  pound  of  sugar  in  a  breakfast  cupful  of 
water  and  mix  it  with  one  pound  of  chestnut  puree;  thicken  this  preparation,  stirring 
it  on  ice,  and  then  add  to  it  a  mixture  of  preserved  fruit,  t6gether  with  some  sultana 
raisins  and  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  maraschino.  Place  this  in  the  mould  which  has 
been  kept  in  the  ice,  shut  it  up,  cover  the  junctures  with  common  paste,  and  cover 
the  mould  with  ice.  In  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water 
and  then  turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  cold  dish. 

Chocolate    Pudding. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  to  boil.  Have  four  tablespoonfuls  of  scraped 
chocolate  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water  and  four  of  sugar, 
when  the  paste  is  smooth  and  glossy  pour  it  in  the  milk.  Mix  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
cornstarch  with  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  pour  this  in  the  boil- 
ing milk  and  stir  for  a  few  minutes.  Pour  the  mixture  in  a  fancy  mould  and  let  it 
remain  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Chocolate    Pudding  with   Almonds. 

Blanch  and  pound  a  number  of  almonds  ;  warm  two  ounces  of  butter,  beat  it 
well  with  two  ounces  of  caster-sugar,  mix  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  two  heaped  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate,  and  the  almonds.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
snow  and  add  this  to  the  mixture.  Butter  a  mould,  dredge  powdered  sugar  into  it, 
pour  in  the  mixture,  cover  it  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  serve  cold. 

Diplomatic   Pudding. 

Wash  and  dry  six  ounces  of  currants,  and  blanch  and  cut  into  fillets  two  ounces 
of  pistachio  nuts.  Procure  a  plain  mould  having  a  lining  in  it,  ornament  it  with  the 


706  COLD    DESSERTS. 

currants  and  pistachios,  fill  the  outer  part  with  clear,  nicely-flavored  jelly  and  stand  it 
in  a  cool  place.  Pour  one  pint  of  milk  into  an  enameled  stewpan  with  a  stick  of 
vanilla  and  loaf-sugar  to  taste,  boil  until  well  flavored,  and  dissolve  one-half  ounce 
of  isinglass  in  the  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  into  a  basin,  and  stir  the  flavored 
milk  gradually  in  with  them.  Strain  the  custard-  into  the  stewpan,  and  stir  it  at  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  without  boiling  it,  then  let  it  cool.  Move  the 
lining  of  the  mould  and  fill  the  hollow  with  alternate  layers  of  sponge-cakes  and 
macaroons,  strewing  between  each  layer  a  few  chopped  candied  fruits.  Pour  in  the 
custard  and  stand  the  mould  in  a  cool  place,  or  on  the  ice  until  the  custard  is  firm. 
When  ready,  dip  the  mould  into  hot  water,  wipe  it,  and  turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  dish, 

Gelatine   Pudding. 

Put  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  half  a  teacupful  of  cold  water,  let  it  remain 
until  soft  and  then  add  boiling  water  to  make  the  quantity  up  to  half  a  pint.  Beat  up 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  basin,  mix  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  little 
salt  to  make  a  custard.  Pour  this  into  a  double  boiler,  add  one  pint  of  boiling  milk 
and  boil  until  it  thickens.  Pass  the  gelatine  water  through  a  fine  strainer  into  the 
double  boiler  with  the  custard,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract  and  the  whites 
of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Dip  six  small  moulds  into  cold  water,  pour  in 
the  mixture  and  pack  them  in  pounded  ice  to  harden.  Turn  them  out  of  the  moulds 
on  a  glass  dish,  and  serve  with  wine  or  other  sweet  sauce. 

Lemon  Jelly   Pudding. 

Prepare  one  quart  of  lemon  jelly,  pour  part  of  it  in  a  mould  holding  two  quarts, 
making  a  layer  about  one-half  inch  thick,  then  stand  it  on  ice  and  leave  till  set.  Cut 
some  candied  cherries  in  two,  arrange  them  on  the  top  of  the  set  jelly,  pour  in  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  liquid  jelly  to  hold  the  cherries,  then  pour  in  enough  jelly 
to  cover  them.  When  the  jelly  is  perfectly  set,  put  a  mould  holding  one  quart  in 
the  center  of  the  large  one,  and  fill  the  intervening  space  with  jelly.  Fill  the  small 
mould  with  ice,  and  set  both  in  a  basin  of  ice  and  water.  When  the  jelly  is  again 
hard,  take  the  ice  out  of  the  smaller  mould,  fill  it  with  warm  water  and  lift  it  out  care- 
fully. Fill  the  cavity  left  by  the  small  mould  with  the  lemon  sponge,  and  let  it  stand 
until  hard.  Turn  the  pudding  onto  a  fancy  dish,  pour  a  lemon-flavored  custard  round 
it,  and  serve. 

Maraschino    Pudding. 

Dissolve  three  ounces  of  gelatine  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water;  beat  the  yolks 
of  ten  eggs  with  one  quart  of  milk,  pbur  them  into  a  lined  saucepan,  and  stir  them 
over  a  slow  fire  until  they  are  thickened,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  or  the  eggs  will  curdle; 
then  stir  in  the  dissolved  gelatine,  and  when  it  is  somewhat  cooled  add  one  wineglass- 


COLD    DESSERTS.  707 

ful  of  Maraschino.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  mould  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place  for  an 
hour.  When  it  is  ready  to  serve,  turn  the  pudding  onto  a  dish,  and  pour  over  it  some 
whipped  cream. 

Meringue    Pudding. 

Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch  into  a  basin,  blend  it  until  smooth  with  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  then  mix  in  by  degrees  one  pint  of  boiling  milk;  sweeten 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  turn  it  into  a  saucepan.  Stir  the  cornstarch 
over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  boil  it  for  five  minutes;  then  move  it  to  the 
side  and  stir  in  two  ounces  of  butter  broken  into  small  pieces.  When  the  butter  has 
dissolved  put  in,  one  at  a  time,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  beat  them  well.  Butter  a 
round  pie-dish,  put  in  one  pint  of  canned  peaches,  and  pour  the  cornstarch  over  them. 
Place  the  pudding  in  a  brisk  oven  and  bake  for  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes.  Beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  together  with  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar.  When  the  pudding  is  cooked,  spread  over  the  egg  mixture,  raising  it  to  a 
point  in  the  center,  and  return  it  to  the  oven  for  four  or  five  minutes  to  set  the 
meringue.  When  cooked  take  the  pudding  from  the  oven  and  place  it  away  until 
quite  cold.  Then  decorate  it  with  candied  fruits  .and  angelica,  serve  on  a  flat  plate, 
and  surround  it  with  a  colored  paper  frill. 

Peach    Pudding. 

Peel  twelve  ripe  peaches  and  cut  them  in  pieces,  put  them  in  a  basin,  sprinkle  fine 
sugar  over  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour.  Put  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk  in  a 
double  boiler.  Before  preparing  the  peaches  put  one  ounce  of  gelatine  or  isinglass 
in  a  teacupful  of  milk  and  let  it  soak  for  an  hour.  Stir  four  beaten  eggs  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  finely-powdered  sugar  and  the  gelatine  in  the  milk  when  boiling, 
and  continue  stirring  for  four  or  five  minutes.  Take  the  double  boiler  off  the  fire 
and  mix  with  the  custard  a  little  salt  and  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira.  Put  the 
peaches  in  a  glass  dish,  and  when  the  custard  has  partly  cooled  pour  it  over  and  leave 
them  for  a  few  hours  before  serving.  It  is  better,  if  possible,  to  make  this  pudding 
the  preceding  day. 

Princess    Pudding. 

Put  two  ounces  of  French  gelatine  into  a  large  basin  with  one  pint  of  cold  water 
and  let  it  soak  for  an  hour  or  a  little  more;  then  pour  over  one  pint  of  boiling  water, 
stir  it  well,  and  while  doing  so  add  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  moist  sugar,  the  strained 
juice  of  four  lemons  and  one  pint  of  Madeira  or  Malaga  wine.  Pour  the  mixture  into 
a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  commences  to  thicken  add  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  previously  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Turn  the  whole  into  a  Princess  mould  packed 
in  ice,  and  when  it  is  set  and  firm  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish  and  serve  with  one  quart  of 
rich  custard  poured  round  it.  The  dish  may  afterward  be  garnished  with  crystallized 
fruits,  macaroon,  ratafias  or  other  sweet  fancy  biscuits. 


7o8  COLD   DESSERTS. 

Sponge-Cake   Pudding. 

Soak  half  a  dozen  sponge-cakes  in  new  milk;  beat  four  eggs  with  a  pint  of  cream; 
then  pour  them  over  the  cakes  and  beat  all  well  together.  Sweeten  to  taste  with 
powdered  sugar  and  add  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla  or  lemon;  ornament  the 
interior  of  a  mould  with  crystalized  cherries  and  orange  chips  and  pour  in  the  mix- 
ture. Pack  the  mould  in  pounded  ice  and  leave  it  for  an  hour  or  two.  When  ready 
to  serve,  dip  the  mould  into  warm  water,  wipe  it  and  turn  the  contents  onto  a  fancy 
dish. 

Rhubarb   with    Meringue. 

Cut  the  rhubarb  into  short  lengths,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of 
water  and  stew  it  gently  until  it  is  tender;  then  mash  it  together  with  about  one 
pound  of  moist  sugar  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  about  ten  minutes  longer;  then  turn 
it  into  a  pie-dish.  Whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  firm  froth  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  powdered  sugar,  spread  it  over  the  rhubarb  and  put  it  in  a  brisk  oven  until 
lightly  browned.  Serve  while  hot. 

Boiled  Rice  and  Cream. 

Pour  one  pint  of  cold  milk  into  a  saucepan,  add  one  pint  of  cold  water,  and  one- 
half  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  place  the  pan  on  a  hot  range;  when  boiling,  throw  in 
four  ounces  of  well-cleaned  raw  rice,  and  with  a  spatula  stir  slowly  and  constantly  at  the 
bottom  for  twenty-five  minutes  while  it  is  cooking.  Take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and 
add  immediately  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  mix 
well  together  with  a  spatula  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Transfer  the  mixture  into  an- 
other vessel,  and  stand  it  in  a  cold  place  for  one  hour.  Whisk  to  a  stiff  froth  one 
pint  of  rich  cream,  cover  the  basin  with  a  napkin,  and  let  it  stand  for  twenty  minutes; 
should  there  be  any  milk  settled  at  the  bottom,  pour  it  off,  and  add  to  the  cream  two 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  flavoring;  then  with  a  wire 
whisk  beat  together  for  two  minutes  longer;  take  the  rice  from  the  vessel,  drop  it 
gradually  into  the  whipped  cream  and  mix  the  whole  slowly  and  carefully  together 
for  three  or  four  minutes.  Line  a  two-quart  melon-shaped  mould  with  three  ounces 
of  peach  marmalade,  fill  the  mould  with  the  preparation,  place  on  the  cover,  and  after 
putting  a  little  broken  ice  at  the  bottom  of  the  pail,  lay  in  the  mould  and  cover  care- 
fully and  entirely  with  broken  ice,  and  freeze  for  one  hour.  Have  ready  a  vessel  with 
two  quarts  of  lukewarm  water,  lift  up  the  mould  from  the  pail,  dip  it  into  the  water, 
wash  off  the  ice  and  raise  it  up  immediately,  remove  the  cover,  turn  the  preparation 
onto  a  cold  dish,  and  send  it  to  the  table. 

Boiled  Rice  with  Apricots. 

Wash  well  a  scant  teacupful  of  rice,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  as  much  milk  as 
it  will  absorb  and  loaf-sugar  to  taste,  and  boil  the  whole  gently  until  tender.  When 


COLD   DESSERTS.  709 

cooked,  flavor  slightly  with  essence  of  vanilla,  move  the  rice  away  from  the  fire,  and 
let  it  cool.  Place  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with  one  teacupful  of 
milk,  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  thickened  but  not  boiling,  and  leave  until  cold. 
When  the  custard  and  rice  are  both  cold,  mix  them  well  together.  Whip  one-fourth 
pint  of  cream  to  a  firm  froth,  having  previously  sweetened  it  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  mix  with  it  one-half  ounce  of  isinglass  that  has  been  dissolved  in  a  small  quantity 
of  warm  water.  Stir  the  cream  in  lightly  with  the  rice,  put  the  mixture  into  a  mould, 
and  pack  it  in  ice.  Cut  up  some  apricots  (canned  ones  will  answer),  into  halves,  re- 
move the  stones,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  cover  them  with  syrup,  and  allow  them  to 
simmer  gently  until  tender.  Drain  the  apricots  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place. 
When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  quickly  into  hot  water,  wipe  it,  turn  the  rice  onto 
a  glass  dish,  and  arrange  the  apricots  round  it. 

Lemon   Snow. 

Put  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water,  and  place  it  over  the 
fire  until  it  has  dissolved,  then  add  one-half  pound  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  six 
lemons.  Stir  the  mixture  and  boil  it  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  jelly-bag 
into  a  basin.  Whip  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  when  the  jelly  is  cold 
and  is  commencing  to  thicken,  mix  them  in  and  whisk  until  light.  Leave  the  pud- 
ding to  get  cold,  garnish  with  ratafias,  and  serve. 

Orange   Snow. 

Soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  three  gills  of  cold  water  for  four  hours,  then  add 
to  it  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  the  grated  rind  of  an  orange,  the  strained  juice 
of  one  lemon  and  four  oranges,  and  eight  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar,  stir  well 
together,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  for  an  hour.  Add  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and 
continue  stirring  till  clear;  then  strain  it  through  a  coarse  cloth  and  wring  it  thor- 
oughly. Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  when  the  liquid  is  quite 
cool  whisk  them  into  it  by  degrees,  and  continue  whisking  till  quite  thick  and  white. 
Wet  the  inside  of  a  mould  with  cold  water,  and  pour  the  snow  into  it.  Let  it  stand 
in  a  cool  place  for  eight  hours  at  least  before  turning  it  out,  then  pile  it  up  on  a  glass 
dish,  and  garnish  it  round  with  sweet  biscuits. 

Lemon   Sponge. 

Soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in  one  teacupful  of  water  for  two  hours.  Pour  the 
juice  of  four  lemons  on  one  breakfast  cupful  of  powdered  sugar;  beat  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  and  mix  them  with  the  remains  of  one  pint  of  water  allowing  for  the  quan- 
tity used  to  soak  the  gelatine,  add  to  this  the  sugar  and  lemon,  and  cook  in  a  double 
boiler  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  put  in  the  gelatine.  Strain  all  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve  into  a  basin,  stand  the  basin  in  a  larger  one  containing  iced-water,  and  whisk 


710 


COLD  DESSERTS. 


now  and  then  until  the  sponge  has  cooled  but  not  hardened.  Beat  in  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  not  previously  beaten,  and  continue  beating  until  the  mixture  is  so  thick  that 
it  is  difficult  to  stir  it,  then  turn  it  into  a  mould  and  set  it  away  to  harden.  When 
ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water,  wipe  it,  and  turn  the  contents  onto  a 
dish.  Serve  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream. 

Peach   Sponge. 

Strain  the  juice  from  a  can  of  preserved  peaches  and  pass  the  fruit  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve,  then  beat  it  up  with  the  juice  and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar.  Put  one  ounce 
of  isinglass  in  a  basin  with  one-half  pint  of  cream,  let  it  steep  for  some  time,  then 
stand  the  basin  in  a  stewpan  containing  boiling  water,  and  stir  the  contents  until  the 
isinglass  has  dissolved.  Mix  the  fruit  pulp  with  the  cream  and  stir  it,  out  of  the 
water,  until  nearly  cold.  Whisk  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  in 
with  the  cream,  and  pile  it  up  high  in  the  center  of  a  glass  dish.  Select  several  small 
thickly-berried  sprays  of  holly  and  brush  each  leaf  carefully  over  with  a  strong  solu- 
tion of  gum  arable,  strew  powdered  sugar  over  and  leave  them  until  dry.  Arrange 
the  sprays  of  holly  round  the  sponge,  and  serve. 

Strawberry   Sponge. 

Pick  the  stems  from  one  quart  of  strawberries,  mash  and  mix  one  teacupful  of 
powdered  sugar  with  them.  Put  one  teacupful  of  crushed  loaf-sugar  in  a  saucepan 
with  one-half  pint  of  water  and  boil  it  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  then  mix  with  it 
one  ounce  of  gelatine  that  has  been  soaked  for  two  hours  in  a  teacupful  of  water,  and 
remove  it  from  the  fire  at  once,  Pass  the  strawberries  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and 
mix  them  with  the  syrup.  Stand  the  bowl  containing  the  above  mixture  on  ice,  and 
beat  it  for  five  minutes,  then  add  the  whipped  whites  of  four  eggs  and  continue  beat- 
ing until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken.  Turn  the  sponge  out  of  the  moulds  onto 
fancy  dishes,  dust  a  little  powdered  sugar  on  the  top,  pour  a  little  whipped  cream 
round,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Apples. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  in  the  selection  of  the  apples  to  avoid  those  which 
"fall"  easily.  The  cores  should  be  removed  before  peeling  and  the  apples  placed  in 
sufficient  water  to  cover  them.  A  little  spinach  green  may  be  placed  in  to  flavor  and 
color.  When  the  apples  are  yet  whole,  but  are  transparent,  they  may  be  carefully 
lifted  out  with  a  strainer  and  placed  on  a  glass  dish.  The  centers  should  then  be 
filled  with  red  jelly,  and  the  tops  masked  with  apple  or  orange  marmalade.  The 
water  they  were  boiled  in  should  be  reduced  by  simmering  until  quite  syrupy;  it  may 
then  be  colored  with  a  little  cochineal  and  flavored  with  lemon,  and  then  poured 
around  the  dish. 


COLD  DESSERTS.  711 

Stewed   Apples   with    Rice. 

Pare  and  core  some  large  Russet  apples  and  place  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient 
water  to  cover  them,  simmering  gently  on  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  are  quite 
tender.  Clean  and  blanch  some  rice,  put  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  milk,  sugar  and 
salt  to  taste,  set  on  the  fire,  and  as  the  milk  is  absorbed,  pour  in  a  little  more.  Con- 
tinue in  this  way  until  the  rice  is  quite  cooked  and  firm,  and  all  the  milk  is  absorbed. 
Turn  out  onto  a  dish,  put  the  apples  on  it,  fill  the  spaces  between  them  with  some 
rice,  and  olace  in  the  oven  until  light  brown. 

Stewed   Figs. 

Put  four  ounces  of  sugar  into  a  lined  saucepan  with  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  a 
large  lemon  and  a  pint  of  cold  water;  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved; 
then  move  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  add  one  pound  of  dried  figs  and  stew  very  gently 
for  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  hours.  When  the  figs  are  quite  tender,  mix  with  them 
two  wineglassfuls  of  sherry  wine  and  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon;  let  them  get  cold, 
turn  with  their  syrup  onto  a  glass  dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Greengages. 

Select  eighteen  or  twenty  ripe  greengages,  cut  them  into  halves,  stone,  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  adding  half  a  pound  of  sugar.  Place 
the  pan  on  the  stove,  and  when  boiling,  skim  well.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
slowly  from  the  bottom  to  avoid  mashing  the  fruit;  remove  from  the  fire  and  imme- 
diately add  one  gill  of  red  curacoa,  mixing  well  together  for  about  half  a  minute. 
Pour  the  whole  into  a  bowl,  let  it  get  cool,  turn  it  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Peaches. 

Peel  and  cut  into  quarters  ten  medium-sized  ripe  peaches,  removing  the  stones, 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  cold  water  and  add  eight  ounces  of  gran- 
ulated sugar.  Place  the  pan  on  the  stove,  and  when  boiling,  skim  well;  cook  for  five 
minutes,  meanwhile  stirring  slowly  from  the  bottom  to  avoid  mashing  the  fruit,  re- 
move from  the  fire  and  immediately  add  a  gill  of  kirsch,  mixing  well  together  for 
about  half  a  minute,  pour  the  preparation  into  a  bowl,  let  it  get  cool,  turn  it  out  onto 
a  dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed    Peaches,   Conde. 

Wipe  the  peaches,  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  some  clarified  sugar  and 
stew  them.  Prepare  a  croustade  of  rice,  bake  it,  and  when  done  turn  it  out  onto  a 
hot  dish;  ornament  it  with  dried  cherries  and  strips  of  angelica  and  put  the  stewed 
peaches  around  it;  make  a  sauce  with  apricot  marmalade  and  madeira  in  equal  parts 
and  pour  it  over. 


712  COLD  DESSERTS. 

Stewed    Pears. 

Cut  some  pears  lengthwise  in  halves  and  remove  the  cores.  Place  them  in  a 
stewpan  the  cut  side  upwards;  put  in  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  pour  over  them  one  gill 
of  red  wine  and  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover.  Add  a  few  cloves  and  the  thinly-pared 
rind  of  a  lemon  and  stew  them  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire.  When  tender,  arrange 
the  pears  on  a  dish,  strain  their  syrup  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  over  them,  and  serve. 

Stewed    Pears   and   Rice. 

Peel  and  cut  four  large  pears  in  halves,  put  them  in  a  lined  pan  with  half  a  pound 
of  powdered  sugar  and  one  pint  of  claret,  and  let  them  boil  slowly  till  tender.  Wash 
four  ounces  of  rice,  and  boil  it  in  milk,  sweetening  to  taste.  Turn  the  rice  on  a  hot 
dish,  drain  the  pears,  arrange  them  on  it.  Reduce  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  pears  to 
half  its  original  quantity,  then  pour  it  over  the  pears,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Stewed   Plums. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  cold  water  eighteen  to  twenty  ripe  peeled 
plums  cut  into  halves  and  stoned,  and  add  half  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar ;  put  the 
pan  on  the  stove,  and  when  boiling  skim  thoroughly  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  stir- 
ring gradually  from  the  bottom  to  avoid  mashing  the  fruit.  Take  the  pan  from  the 
fire,  and  add  at  once  a  gill  of  red  curacoa,  mixing  well  for  about  half  a  minute;  pour 
the  fruit  into  a  bowl,  let  it  cool,  and  serve  on  a  dish. 


Stewed    Pomegranates. 


Cut  into  halves  about  four  pomegranates  and  take  out  all  of  the  grains,  placing 
the  small  ones  in  a  cloth  and  pressing  out  all  of  the  juice  into  a  saucepan,  mix  in 
with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  water,  and  about  four  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  stirring  con- 
tinually over  a  slow  fire  until  it  has  become  quite  thick,  and  then  remove  from  the  fire 
to  cool;  arrange  the  pomegranates  in  a  dish  and  pour  over  the  syrup,  sprinkling  in  a 
few  drops  of  essence  of  orange-water,  put  in  a  few  small  pieces  of  ice,  and  serve, 

Stewed  Prunes. 

Wash  thoroughly  a  pound  of  prunes  in  luke  warm  water,  and  then  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  cold  water  in  which  half  a  pound  of  sugar  has  been  dis- 
solved, and  add  the  juice  and  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon.  Set  the  saucepan  at  the  side 
of  the  fire  and  simmer  gently  for  an  hour,  by  which  time  the  fruit  should  be  tender 
enough  to  mash  readily.  Remove  the  prunes  and  drain  them;  then  put  the  saucepan 
with  the  syrup  in  it  over  the  fire,  and  boil  it  to  the  degree  at  which  it  is  on  the  point 
of  resolving  itself  into  sugar.  Put  the  prunes  in  a  shallow  dish,  pour  the  syrup  over 


COLD  DESSERTS.  713 

them,  shaking  them  until  they  are  well  covered,  but  using  proper  care  not  to  break 
them.  Let  them  stay  in  the  syrup  for  twelve  hours,  and  then  pile  them  into  a  glass 
dish,  and  serve. 

Stewed   Quinces. 

Peel  and  core  a  dozen  ripe  quinces,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  pint  of  cold  water,  and  one-half  pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Put 
the  pan  on  the  stove,  and  when  the  contents  boil  skim  well,  and  cook  for  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  gently  from  the  bottom  to  avoid  mashing  the  fruit.  Take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  immediately  add  one  gill  of  maraschino;  stir  lightly  again,  pour  the  pre- 
paration into  a  bowl  to  cool,  and  serve  on  a  dish. 

Stewed    Rhubarb. 

Take  some  thick  stalks  of  rhubarb,  cut  them  into  pieces  about  one  and  one-half 
inches  long,  and  plunge  them  into  a  vessel  of  fast-boiling  water.  At  the  end  of  three 
minutes'  time,  when  they  should  be  tender,  drain  off  the  water,  and  serve  the  rhubarb 
with  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  white  sifted  sugar  on  it. 

Apple   Tart  and   Custard. 

Place  a  border  of  rich  puff-paste  around  the  pie-dish  and  put  in  some  apples 
pared,  cored  and  cut  into  thin  slices;  sprinkle  over  them  a  little  sugar  and  grated 
rind  of  lemon.  Mix  a  little  lemon-juice  with  some  water,  pour  it  over  the  apples  and 
cover  with  a  crust  of  paste.  Place  in  the  oven,  baking  for  about  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  then  remove  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  away  all  the  inside  of  the  crust,  leaving 
merely  the  border.  Pour  over  the  apples  a  little  boiled  custard,  grate  over  a  little 
nutmeg  and  allow  the  tart  to  cool,  and  serve. 

Apple    Open-Tart. 

Place  'the  quantity  of  apples  to  be  used  in  a  saucepan  after  peeling,  coring  and 
slicing  them,  and  add  a  little  sugar  and  water  together  with  a  small  quantity  of 
lemon-peel  and  grated  nutmeg.  Cook  gently  until  the  apples  are  quite  tender,  then 
put  the  mixture  in  a  basin  to  cool.  Cover  a  shallow  pie-dish  lined  with  rich  puff- 
paste  with  the  mixture  to  a  depth  of  about  half  an  inch.  Then  place  on  top  more  of 
the  paste  rolled  out  into  strips  running  from  side  to  side  to  the  edge  of  the  crust. 
Trim  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  done,  which  is  known  by  the  crust  being 
easily  separated  from  the  dish.  Turn  out  carefully  onto  another  dish,  and  serve. 


Cranberry   Tart. 


Put  about  a  quart  of  cranberries  into  a  saucepan  with  one  gill  of  water,  sprinkle 
over  one  teacupful  of  moist  sugar,  place  it  on  a  brisk  fire,  stir  gently  with  a  spatula, 


7'4 


COLD  DESSERTS. 


and  cook  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire,  rub  the  fruit  through  a 
sieve  into  a  basin,  and  pour  it  into  a  flat  dish  lined  with  paste.  Put  it  in  the  oven  and 
bake  for  twenty  minutes,  take  out  and  let  it  cool.  Beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of 
three  eggs,  and  stir  in  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar;  spread  half  of  this  over  the 
tart,  make  the  surface  flat  with  a  knife,  place  the  remainder  in  a  pastry-bag,  and 
decorate  with  any  design.  Then  sprinkle  over  a  liberal  quantity  of  powdered  sugar, 
brown  the  tart  in  the  oven  for  about  ten  minutes,  allow  it  to  get  cold,  and  then  serve. 

Cream  Tart. 

Put  one  quart  of  milk  into  a  saucepan,  flavor  it  with  vanilla,  place  it  over  the  fire, 
stir  in  gradually  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  finest  sifted  flour,  sweeten  to  taste  with 
caster-sugar,  and  continue  stirring  over  the  fire  until  thick.  When  ready,  move  the 
cream  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  taking  care  to 
keep  the  mixture  free  from  lumps.  Rub  one-half  pound  of  butter  into  one  pound  of 
flour  till  quite  smooth,  and  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  three  eggs,  and  sufficient  milk  to 
make  a  stiff  paste.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  the  table,  roll  the  paste  out,  stick 
about  two  ounces  of  butter  over  it  in  little  pieces,  fold  over,  and  leave  again  for  half 
an  hour,  then  beat  the  paste  again  with  a  rolling-pin,  dust  it  over  with  a  little  more 
flour,  and  roll  it  out.  Butter  a  tart-dish,  line  it  with  the  paste  and  pour  in  the  pre- 
pared cream,  using  the  trimmings  of  the  paste  to  make  a  rim  to  the  tart  and  strips 
across.  Brush  the  paste  over  with  a  feather  or  a  fine  brush  dipped  in  the  beaten  yolk 
of  an  egg,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  either  cold  or  hot. 

Chocolate   Cream   Tarts. 

Boil  a  pint  of  milk  with  one  ounce  of  grated  chocolate  and  a  little  sugar.  Mix 
two  ounces  of  flour  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  beat  them  in  the  boiling 
milk,  then  add  one  ounce  of  butter  and  four  yolks  of  beaten  eggs,  removing  the  pan 
before  the  eggs  are  cooked.  Line  tart-pans  with  tart-paste,  fill  with  the  chocolate 
cream,  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven.  Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar,  and  make  a  meringue.  Squeeze  this  from  a  bag  over  the 
tops  of  the  tarts,  and  brown. 

Currant  Tart. 

Place  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  thoroughly  cleaned  currants  in  a  basin  with 
four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar.  Line  a  tart-dish  with  paste  and  spread  over  it  a 
tablespoonful  of  apple  sauce;  place  the  currants  and  sugar  over  this,  put  a  rim  of 
paste  round  the  edge  of  the  dish  and  moisten  with  beaten  egg  on  both  sides  before 
putting  it  on,  fasten  it  securely  at  the  ends,  put  the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake 
for  about  fifty  minutes.  Take  it  out,  sprinkle  the  surface  well  with  powdered  sugar, 
return  it  to  the  oven  to  melt  the  sugar,  take  out  again,  spread  over  some  sweet  jelly, 
and  serve. 


COLD  DESSERTS.  715 

Gooseberry-and-Cream  Tarts. 

Line  some  small  patty-pans  with  puff  paste  and  bake  them  gently  in  the  oven; 
turn  them  out  when  done,  half  fill  them  with  well-whipped  cream  and  cook  for  a  few 
minutes  until  the  cream  is  firm,  put  ripe  gooseberries  glazed  with  syrup  over  the  top, 
and  serve  either  warm  or  cold. 

Jelly   Tarts. 

Roll  out  one-half  pound  of  rich  puff  paste,  cut  it  into  rounds  about  two  and  one- 
half  inches  in  diameter,  dampen  the  edges  with  water,  pinch  the  paste  so  that  it  will 
assume  shapes  like  three-cornered  hats,  put  a  small  tin  of  the  same  shape  inside  each 
tart  and  bake  lightly  in  a  moderate  oven.  Remove  them  when  done,  brush  over  the 
paste  with  egg  and  glaze,  pipe  around  the  sides  both  inside  and  out,  fill  up  with 
small  squares  of  any  kind  of  jelly,  over  this  place  a  heap  of  well-whipped  cream, 
pipe  over  this  again,  and  serve. 

Lemon  Tart. 

Butter  a  pie-dish  and  line  it  with  a  rich  paste;  slice  five  lemons  thin,  place 
them  in  the  dish,  dredge  over  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  put  in  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  sugar  and  pour  in  one  pint  of  water.  Cover  the  pie  with  a  top  of  the  same  paste, 
moistening  it  round  the  edges  and  trimming  neatly,  place  it  in  a  brisk  oven  arid  bake 
for  nearly  an  hour.  When  cooked  dust  powdered  sugar  over  the  tart,  and  serve. 

Meringue    Tarts. 

Have  in  readiness  some  tarts  made  of  any  preserved  fruit  or  jam.  Meanwhile 
whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  froth,  adding  slowly  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  little 
lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring;  pour  it  over  the  tart  to  about  one  inch  in  thickness, 
smoothing  it  with  a  knife,  put  the  tart  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  color  slightly 
the  meringue,  and  serve.  It  may  be  served  either  hot  or  cold,  as  preferred. 

Peach  Tart. 

Line  a  pie-dish  with  puff  paste,  put  twelve  half  peaches  at  the  bottom,  dust  over 
with  two*  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-powdered  sugar,  pour  over  one-half  wine- 
glassful  of  any  white  wine;  over  this  put  six  chopped  apples,  and  one  breakfast  cup- 
ful of  rich  custard  flavored  with  noyau,  cover  with  more  paste,  put  a  piece  of  paper 
over  that,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done,  spread  the  top  over  with  two 
well-whipped  whites  of  eggs,  mixed  with  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar;  over 
this  arrange  preserved  cherries  and  imitation  leaves  cut  out  of  angelica,  arranging 
them  according  to  fancy.  Place  the  pie  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  so  as  to  set 
the  egg,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  serving;  or  it  may  be  served  cold. 


716  COLD  DESSERTS. 

Pear  Tart. 

Core  and  peel  a  dozen  or  so  of  cooking-pears,  fill  up  the  cavity  with  sponge-cake 
soaked  in  sherry  wine,  place  them  in  a  pie-dish,  pour  over  a  liquor  glassful  of  orange- 
flower  water,  sprinkle  over  a  good  supply  of  sugar,  about  half  fill  the  dish  with  cold 
water,  cover  over  the  top  with  puff  paste,  glaze  the  surface,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold, 

Pineapple  Tarts. 

Peel  and  cut  into  fine  slices  a  medium-sized  pineapple,  lay  them  in  a  basin  and 
mix  in  with  them  three  ounces  of  powdered  loaf  sugar;  line 'a  pie-dish  with  paste, 
spread  over  it  a  tablespoonful  of  apple-sauce,  and  arrange  the  pineapple  on  top;  take 
three  ounces  more  of  paste,  roll  it  out  lengthwise  two  feet  long,  and  fold  carefully  in 
two  so  as  to  form  a  very  narrow  strip,  roll  a  trifle  more  until  about  thirty  inches 
long  by  about  one  inch  wide,  and  pare  off  both  sides  evenly,  so  as  to  make  it  exactly 
one  inch  in  width.  Moisten  the  edge  of  the  pie  with  beaten  egg,  and  place  the 
strip  around  fastening  the  ends  together  one  over  the  other,  glaze  the  top  of  the 
strip  with  beaten  egg,  place  the  pie  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  fifty  minutes. 
Remove  to  the  door,  dredge  the  pie  well  with  powdered  sugar,  and  return  it  to  the 
oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  let  the  sugar  melt,  and  spread  evenly  over  the  top  two 
ounces  of  sweet  jelly,  and  serve. 

Plum   Tart. 

Peel  five  dozen  black  plums  and  arrange  in  a  tart-dish  in  layers,  sprinkling  over 
each  layer  with  a  little  caster-sugar;  the  stones  are  not  to  be  removed.  Make  a 
border  of  short  paste  round  the  rim  of  the  dish  and  cover  it  with  a  flat  of  the  paste. 
Ornament  the  tart,  brush  it  over  with  a  little  water  and  sprinkle  it  over  with  some 
caster-sugar.  Put  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake. 

Raspberry   Tart. 

Line  a  flat  dish  with  a  rich  paste;  over  this  spread  twelve  ounces  of  apple  marma- 
lade, place  a  strip  of  paste  round  the  rim  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  min- 
utes. Remove  the  tart  to  the  door  of  the  oven,  sprinkle  it  over  plentifully  with 
powdered  sugar,  push  it  back  into  the  oven,  close  the  door  and  bake  for  about  two 
minutes  to  melt  the  sugar.  Remove  it,  let  it  get  cold,  scoop  out  with  a  spoon  about 
half  of  the  apple,  fill  it  up  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of  well-cleaned  and  carefully- 
picked  raspberries,  spread  the  top  over  with  two  ounces  of  apple  jelly,  and  serve  cold. 

Raspberry   Tarts   with    Cream. 

Butter  some  rather  large  patty-pans  and  line  them  with  a  thin  layer  of  puff 
paste.  Pick  ihe  raspberries  over  carefully  to  remove  all  the  stems,  etc.,  place  them 


COLD  DESSERTS.  717 

in  the  pans,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  cover  with  paste,  trimming  it  off  neatly  round 
the  edges.  Bake  the  tarts  in  a  quick  oven.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one- 
half  pint  of  cream  and  sweeten  slightly  with  sugar.  When  the  tarts  are  cooked  lift 
the  covers,  pour  in  the  cream  and  place  them  in  the  oven  for  seven  or  eight  minutes 
longer.  The  tarts  may  be  served  either  hot  or  cold. 

Strawberry   Tart. 

Turn  one  pound  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan  with  one-fourth  pint 
of  water,  and  boil  it  to  a  syrup.  Put  the  whites  of  two  eggs  into  the  syrup  and  re- 
remove  the  scum  off  the  top  until  only  the  foam  arises.  Pick  the  tops  off  one  quart 
of  strawberries,  put  them  in  the  syrup  and  boil  them  until  they  look  clear.  Butter  a 
tart-dish,  line  it  with  a  short  paste  and  bake  it.  When  the  paste  is  done,  pour  the 
stewed  strawberries  into  it,  and  serve. 

Almond    Tartlets. 

Line  a  sufficient  number  of  tartlet-moulds  with  paste,  cut  the  paste  on  the  rims 
of  the  moulds,  then  mask  the  bottom  with  a  thin  layer  of  marmalade.  Pound  some 
blanched  almonds  dried  in  the  oven,  mixing  by  degrees  the  same  amount  of  sugar,  a 
little  orange  or  lemon  zest,  and  the  yolk  of  half  a  dozen  eggs.  Fill  the  tartlets, 
sprinkle  them  over  with  fine  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven  for  twenty-five  or  thirty 
minutes. 

Cherry    Tartlets. 

Line  six  or  eight  scalloped  tart-moulds  with  one-half  pound  of  puff-paste,  press 
down  the  bottom  and  the  sides  to  get  the  impression  of  the  moulds,  mask  them  with 
three  ounces  of  apple  marmalade  spread  equally  over  this,  throw  in  one  pound  of 
stoned  cherries,  sprinkle  them  with  powdered  loaf-sugar,  and  bake  in  a  medium  oven 
for  twenty  minutes.  Sprinkle  more  powdered  sugar  on  the  edges  and  melt  or  glaze 
it  in  the  oven  for  two  minutes;  then  remove  the  tartlets  and  let  them  get  cool.  Turn 
them  out  of  the  moulds,  cover  with  a  thin  coating  of  apple-jelly,  and  serve  on  a  dish 
with  an  ornamental  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin. 

Fancy    Tartlets. 

Remove  the  peels  and  cores  from  half  a  dozen  large  cooking-apples,  cut  them 
into  slices,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  crushed  loaf-sugar, 
half  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  three  or  four  cloves,  a  thin  slice  of  lemon-peel  and  a  little 
water.  Stew  the  apples  over  a  gentle  fire  until  they  are  tender.  When  cooked,  pass 
them  through  a  fine  wire-sieve.  Beat  three  fresh  eggs  well,  mix  with  them  four 
crushed  stale  sponge  cakes,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  three  ounces  of  warmed 
butter  and  beat  the  mixture  well.  Butter  and  line  some  pattypans  with  a  rich  tart 
paste,  half  fill  each  one  with  the  apple-paste,  spread  the  cake  mixture  on  the  top  and 


7i8  COLD  DESSERTS. 

bake  the  tarts  in  a  moderate  oven  until  they  are  nicely  browned.  When  cooked,  re- 
move them  from  their  tins,  arrange  them  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a 
folded  napkin  or  piece  of  ornamental  dish-paper,  and  serve. 

Gooseberry   Tartlets. 

Take  the  required  quantity  of  green  gooseberries,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water  and  let  them  bubble  for  two  or  three  minutes;  then  put  them  in  a  basin, 
sprinkle  sugar  over  and  let  them  cool.  Rub  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  in 
with  one  pound  of  flour,  put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  pinch  of  salt; 
beat  together  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  a  little  water,  and  with  them  mix  the  flour 
to  a  smooth  paste.  Take  about  fifteen  tartlet-moulds,  butter  and  line  them  with  the 
paste.  Take  the  gooseberries  out  with  a  skimmer  and  put  some  in  the  center  of  each 
tart.  Reduce  the  liquor  from  the  gooseberries  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  syrup  until 
quite  thick.  When  cold,  pour  a  little  over  each  tart,  and  serve  with  a  little  whipped 
cream  on  top. 

Orange   Tartlets. 

Remove  the  rinds  from  one  dozen  sweet  oranges,  quarter  them  and  take  out  the 
core;  boil  for  about  three  minutes  in  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  and  water,  and  put  on 
a  sieve  to  drain.  Boil  the  juice  that  runs  from  them,  and  the  liquor  that  they  were 
boiled  in  to  a  syrup.  Have  ready  some  shells  of  pastry  baked  in  patty-pans.  Put 
the  oranges  in  the  hot  syrup  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  them  boil,  lay  them  in 
the  shells  of  crust,  and  just  before  serving  pour  the  syrup  over. 

Paganini    Tartlets. 

Put  the  whites  of  three  eggs  into  a  basin,  beat  them  to  a  froth,  and  add  by 
degrees  five  or  six  ounces  of  sifted  crushed  loaf  sugar.  Have  in  readiness  one  tartlet 
or  patty-pan  lined  with  puff  paste,  put  a  little  orange  or  apricot  marmalade  in  the 
center  of  each,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  When  done 
remove  them,  heap  the  egg  mixture  on  top,  and  serve  them  either  hot  or  cold. 

Peach   Tartlets. 

Sift  one  pound  of  flour  through  a  fine  sieve  onto  a  table,  make  a  hollow  in  the 
center  and  put  in  twelve  ounces  of  butter  broken  in  little  bits,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  a  little  salt,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  a  little  water,  and  work  them  gradually 
together.  Line  a  dozen  or  more  buttered  tartlet-moulds  with  the  prepared  paste,  put 
a  thin  layer  of  apple  marmalade  on  the  bottom  of  each,  and  half  fill  them  with  rice 
boiled  in  milk;  cover  each  with  paper  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done 
remove  from  the  oven  and  leave  them  for  ten  minutes,  then  spread  in  a  layer  of 
marmalade,  fill  up  the  spaces  with  rice  that  has  been  boiled  and  mixed  with  cream, 


COLD    DESSERTS.  719 

and  put  half  a  preserved  peach  on  each,  round  side  upward.  Squeeze  some  meringue 
through  a  biscuit-forcer  in  little  beads  between  the  paste  and  peaches,  sprinkle  pow- 
dered sugar  over  and  place  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  Reduce 
the  peach  syrup,  take  the  tartlets  out  of  the  oven,  dip  a  paste-brush  in  the  syrup,  and 
brush  the  peaches  over  with  it.  Arrange  them  in  a  group  on  a  dish  covered  with  an 
ornamental  dish-paper,  and  serve. 

Pear   Tartlets. 

Roll  out  eight  ounces  of  puff  paste  twelve  inches  long  by  eight  inches  wide,  cut 
it  in  six  pieces  with  a  cutter,  arrange  them  on  six  scalloped  tart-pans  three  and  one- 
half  inches  wide,  and  press  down  the  paste  at  the  bottom  and  sides  so  as  to  have  the 
impression  of  the  moulds,  but  without  touching  the  rim,  which  will  rise  considerably 
when  baked.  Mask  them  with  three  ounces  of  apple  marmalade  equally  divided; 
on  top  of  this  put  half  a  large  pear,  dust  them  over  with  pounded  sugar,  put  them  on 
a  baking-sheet  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Bring  them  to  the 
oven  door,  dust  the  edges  over  lightly  with  more  powdered  sugar,  melt  this  in  the 
oven  for  about  two  minutes,  take  them  out  and  let  them  cool.  Spread  over  each  a 
little  apple  jelly,  turn  them  out  carefully  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Plum   Tartlets. 

Roll  out  some  puff  paste  to  twenty-one  inches  by  eight  inches  and  cut  round 
with  a  cutter.  Line  six  fluted  tartlet  tins  with  the  paste  and  press  the  paste  at  the 
bottom  and  sides  so  as  to  retain  the  shape  of  the  mould,  mask  them  with  three  ounces 
of  apple  marmalade  equally  divided;  over  this  place  a  dozen  plums  cut  in  halves  and 
stoned,  dust  over  with  powdered  sugar  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven;  bring  them  to  the  oven  door,  dust  the  edges  over  with  powdered  sugar,  melt 
this  for  a  couple  of  minutes  in  the  oven  and  take  out  the  tarts,  let  them  cool  and  turn 
them  out  of  the  pans.  Then  mask  them  with  a  little  apple-jelly  and  serve  on  a  nap- 
kin spread  over  a  dish. 

Roman    Tartlets. 

Put  the  whites  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  into  a  whipping-bowl  and  beat  them  to  a 
froth;  add  by  degrees  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  after  this  is  worked  in 
add  one  dessertspoonful  of  corn  starch.  Great  care  must  be  observed  in  adding  the 
latter,  otherwise  the  pastry  will  be  tough  and  useless;  the  beating  must  stop  and  the 
cornstarch  only  stirred  in.  Cover  a  tin  or  baking-sheet  with  oiled  paper;  on  this 
place  as  many  small  rings  as  will  be  required,  also  lined  with  oiled  paper,  make  them 
hot,  pour  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  mixture  into  each  ring,  place  them  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  as  they  are  baking  make  an  indentation  in  each  with  the  back  of  a  spoon. 
When  done  remove,  pile  upon  them  whipped  cream,  decorate  with  small  pieces  of 
various-colored  jellies,  and  serve. 


720  COLD   DESSERTS. 

Rhubarb   Tartlets. 

Choose  a  quantity  of  nice  young  rhubarb,  wipe  it  on  a  cloth,  cut  it  up  into  con- 
venient lengths,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two  or  three  small  pieces  of  lemon  peel, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  little  water,  and  plenty  of  sugar,  and  stew  it  gently  at  the  side 
of  the  fire.  Make  a  quantity  of  good  short-paste,  line  a  number  of  buttered  tartlet- 
pans  with  it,  trim  the  edges  neatly,  fill  them  with  uncooked  rice,  and  bake  them  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Mix  the  well-whisked  white  of  an  egg  with  one-half  pint  of  cream, 
and  sweeten  it  with  loaf-sugar  that  has  been  rubbed  on  the  yellow  rind  of  a  lemon, 
and  then  pounded  and  whisked  to  a  firm  froth,  standing  the  basin,  if  possible,  over  the 
ice.  When  the  tartlets  are  cooked  turn  the  rice  out,  and  remove  them  from  their  tins; 
fill  each  one  with  a  quantity  of  the  rhubarb,  and  pile  the  cream  on  top  of  them. 
Spread  a  fancy  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin  over  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  tartlets  on 
it,  and  serve. 

Strawberry   Tartlets. 

Put  one  pound  of  coarsely-crushed  loaf-sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  a  s,mall  quan- 
tity of  water,  and  boil  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  syrup,  then  take  it  off  the  fire  and  mix 
it  with  one  wineglassful  of  brandy  or  sherry.  Pick  the  stems  off  some  freshly  gath- 
ered ripe  strawberries  and  put  them  in  the  syrup.  Butter  some  small  patty-pans,  and 
line  them  with  a  good  short  paste,  fill  them  with  uncooked  rice  and  bake  them. 
When  the  tartlets  are  cooked  turn  the  rice  out,  fill  them  with  the  strawberries  and 
syrup,  and  put  them  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Spread  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  tartlets  on  it,  and  serve  them  accompanied  with  cream  in  a  pitcher, 
if  desired. 

Vanilla   Tartlets. 

Peel  and  blanch  five  dozen  almonds,  place  them  in  a  mortar  with  five  ounces  of 
loaf  sugar,  pound  them  to  a  powder,  and  then  mix  in  with  them  a  small  quantity 
of  vanilla  sugar.  Whip  the  whites  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  the 
pounded  almonds  and  sugar  in  with  them.  Butter  some  tartlet-moulds,  line  them 
with  puff-paste,  fill  them  with  the  egg  mixture,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 
The  tartlets  may  be  served  either  hot  or  cold. 

Walnut   Salad. 

Break  the  shells  of  some  walnuts,  remove  the  kernels  carefully,  blanch  them  to 
remove  the  skins,  place  them  on  a  dish,  squeeze  over  them  the  juice  of  one  or  two 
lemons,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  macerate  for  three  hours,  turning 
them  about  occasionally.  At  the  end  of  that  time  they  will  be  ready  for  serving  and 
will  make  a  very  nice  dish.  If  the  juice  of  some  unripe  grapes  can  be  obtained,  it 
will  be  preferable  to  the  lemon-juice. 


COLD    DESSERTS.  721 

Sugared   Walnuts. 

Take  off  the  skins  of  about  three  dozen  walnuts,  separate  them  into  halves  and 
mask  them  with  an  icing  made  of  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  an  egg,  Place  them  on  a 
sheet  of  thick  paper,  stand  them  in  the  oven,  and  bake  until  of  a  light  brown  color. 
Take  them  out,  remove  them  from  the  paper  when  cold,  and  they  are  then  ready  for 
use.  The  walnuts,  after  being  skinned  and  divided  into  halves,  should  be  dried  at  the 
oven  door.  Serve  them  piled  on  a  glass  dish.  A  delicious  sweetmeat  is  made  by 
dipping  the  kernels  into  thick  chocolate  and  icing. 


Ice- Creams  and  Ices. 

Lemon   Bavarois. 

Put  the  peel  of  two  lemons  in  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of  boiling  milk,  and 
let  soak  for  an  hour.  Steep  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  gelatine  in  water  for  fifteen 
minutes,  drain  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  ten  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  the  beaten 
yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  the  lemon  milk.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire  until  the  egg 
begins  to  thicken,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a 
stewpan,  and  place  this  on  the  ice,  and  stir  the  custard  till  it  coats  the  spoon,  add- 
ing one  and  one-half  pints  of  double-whipped  cream  Coat  a  mould  with  some  lemon 
jelly  that  has  not  quite  set,  let  it  set  in  the  mould,  and  pour  in  the  lemon  cream. 
Freeze  for  two  hours. 

Maraschino    Bavarois. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  isinglass,  the  strained  juice  of 
two  lemons,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  loaf-sugar,  and  one-half  pint  of  water,  and  boil 
until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity,  then  skim  it  carefully  and  pass 
it  through  a  fine  silk-sieve  into  a  basin.  When  cold  stir  in  well  four  wineglassfuls  of 
Maraschino  and  two  wineglassfuls  of  brandy,  and  leave  until  on  the  point  of  setting; 
then  mix  one  pint  of  well-whipped  cream  with  it,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  mould. 
Pack  the  mould  in  ice,  and  leave  it  until  the  cream  has  set.  When  ready  to  serve 
dip  the  mould  in  tepid' water,  wipe  it  and  turn  the  bavarois  onto  a  fancy  dish. 


Bavarois   of  Pineapple. 


Peel  the  pine,  cut  it  into  slices  one-eighth  inch  in  thickness,  put  them  in  a  pre- 
serving pan  with  eight  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  one-half  ounce  of  isinglass  and  one-half 
teacupful  of  water.  Put  the  pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  stew  the  contents  till 
tender,  keeping  them  well  stirred.  Rub  the  pine  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a 
basin,  stand  it  on  ice  and  keep  it  stirred  till  on  the  point  of  setting,  them  mix  in 
thoroughly  one  pint  of  well-whipped  cream.  Pour  the  bavarois  into  a  mould,  close 
it,  and  pack  it  in  pounded  ice  and  salt.  In  about  two  hours  time  or  more,  dip  the 
mould  in  tepid  water,  wipe  it,  and  turn  the  bavarois  out  on  a  glass  or  fancy  dish,  and 
serve. 

Bavarois    of  Pistachios. 

Blanch  and  skin  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachios  and  a  dozen  bitter  almonds, 
pound  in  a  mortar  with  six  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  upon  which  has  been  rubbed  the  rind 

722 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  723 

of  a  lemon;  the  pounded  pistachios,  etc.,  are  then  placed  in  a  saucepan  with  three- 
quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  one  ounce  of  isinglass.  Stir  this  mixture  over 
the  fire,  and  boil  for  about  five  minutes,  then  turn  it  into  a  basjn.  Set  it  on  ice,  and 
stir  until  it  is  at  the  point  cf  setting,  then  mix  in  with  it  one  pint  of  well-whipped 
cream,  the  juice  of  some  spinach  boiled  until  it  has  become  curdled,  and  brush  the 
inside  of  a  mould  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  a  little  half-set  jelly,  then  sprinkle  in 
some  of  the  chopped  pistachios  shaking  them  until  they  adhere  to  the  sides.  Pour 
the  bavarois  into  the  mould,  place  on  the  cover,  and  pack  it  in  pounded  ice  and  salt. 
When  ready,  say  two  hours  after  being  placed  in  the  ice-pack,  turn  it  onto  a  fancy 
dish,  and  serve 

Iced    Charlotte. 

Take  six  small  charlotte-moulds,  and  line  them  neatly  with  a  dozen  lady's-finger 
biscuits  cut  crosswise  into  halves.  Have  ready  one  and  one-half  pint  of  vanilla  ice- 
cream, turn  this  into  the  interiors  of  the  moulds,  and  then  turn  them  onto  a  dessert- 
dish  with  a  folded  napkin  over.  Divide  the  remainder  of  the  ice-cream  evenly  among 
the  six  charlottes,  placing  one  macaroon  on  top  of  each,  then  send  immediately  to  the 
table. 

Charlotte   Panachee. 

Line  six  charlotte-moulds  as  for  charlotte  glaces,  fill  them  with  about  a  pint  of 
vanilla  ice-cream,  then  turn  them  onto  six  cold  dessert-plates.  Take  a  pastry-bag, 
and  slide  down  in  it  a  fancy-shaped  tube,  and  pour  into  it  one  pint  of  vanilla  cream, 
whipped;  press  a  small  quantity  of  this  onto  the  top  of  the  charlottes,  arrange  over 
them  half  a  dozen  macaroons,  press  on  a  little  more  cream  about  the  size  of  a  walnut 
on  the  top  of  each  macaroon,  then  with  the  balance  of  the  cream  decorate  the  bottom 
of  the  charlottes  all  around,  and  then  serve. 

Ice-Cream. 

The  kind  of  cream  usually  made  is  composed  of  milk  and  a  small  proportion  of 
cream,  with  eggs  and  sugar  added  to  it.  Dissolve  one-half  pound  or  so  of  sugar  in 
one  quart  of  milk,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  heat  to  the  boiling  point.  In  the 
meantime  beat  three  eggs,  pour  the  boiling  milk  into  them,  return  to  the  fire,  and  stir 
until  it  begins  to  thicken.  Then  take  it  from  the  fire,  stir  again  until  quite  smooth, 
flavor  and  allow  it  to  cool.  When  cold,  freeze  it  in  the  freezer. 

Almond   and   Raspberry  Ice-Cream. 

Blanch,  peel  and  pound  half  a  pound  of  Jordan  almonds  and  half  an  ounce  of 
bitter  almonds.  Boil  three  pints  of  cream  or  half  milk  and  half  cream,  pour  it  into  a 
stewpan  and  let  it  cool;  then  stir  in  half  a  pound  of  finely-powdered  sugar,  and  when 
that  is  quite  dissolved,  beat  it  up  sharply  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  stirring 


724  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

over  the  fire  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  until  the  mixture  thickens;  add  quickly  the 
pounded  almonds,  and  a  tablespocnful  of  kirsch;  strain  the  whole  through  a  tammy 
cloth  into  a  basin.  Then  mix  one  quart  of  raspberry  juice  and  one  quart  of  syrup  at 
eighteen  degrees  by  the  saccharometer,  or  take  two  quarts  of  raspberry  syrup  made 
without  vinegar,  and  strain  through  a  sieve  if  necessary.  Freeze  these  two  mixtures 
in  separate  pots,  and  serve  in  layers. 

Apricot  and  Pistachio  Ice-Cream. 

Blanch,  peel  and  pound  a  small  quantity  of  pistachio  kernels,  say  a  quarter 
pound;  boil  some  milk,  and  put  the  yolks  of  a  half  dozen  eggs  into  a  stewpan,  with  a 
little  pounded  sugar  and  the  boiled  milk.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  begin  to 
thicken.  Allow  this  to  become  cool,  and  then  add  the  pounded  pistachios  and  a  little 
green  spinach-coloring,  straining  the  whole  through  a  tammy-cloth  into  a  basin. 
Make  a  pint  or  so  of  apricot  puree  (by  stewing  the  fruit  until  soft  and  then  rubbing 
it  through  a  sieve),  mix  a  pint  of  syrup,  and  strain  through  a  sieve.  Freeze  the  two 
mixtures  separately,  and  serve  them  moulded  together. 

Banana  Ice-Cream. 

Mix  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  the  following  proportions:  One  pint  of  water, 
three  teacupfuls  of  sugar,  and  after  boiling  for  twenty  minutes,  add  the  pulp  of  half  a 
dozen  bananas,  or  one  or  two  more,  if  strong  flavor  is  desired,  also  adding  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Stir  well  for  six  minutes,  then  remove  from  the  fire,  put 
in  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  and  beat  well  for  ten  minutes.  When  cold,  pass  it  through  a 
tammy-sieve  adding  a  quart  of  cream,  turn  the  whole  into  the  freezer,  and  let  it 
remain  until  frozen,  when  it  is  ready  for  serving. 

Brown    Bread   Ice-Cream. 

Grate  enough  brown  breadcrumbs  to  fill  two  breakfast  cups  ;  boil  a  pint  of 
milk  and  pour  over  the  crumbs,  flavoring  with  a  breakfast  cupful  of  noyau  or  mara- 
schino syrup  ;  when  cold  turn  this  preparation  into  a  freezing-pot,  and  work  it  until 
frozen  ;  then  place  it  in  the  mould  and  pack  in  pounded  ice  and  salt  for  two  hours. 
When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water  and  wipe  it,  turning  the  contents 
out  onto  a  fancy  dish. 

Caramel    Ice-Cream. 

Place  in  a  copper  basin  ten  ounces  of  sugar  together  with  a  small  quantity  of 
water  and  cook  to  a  caramel,  then  pour  it  out  onto  a  marble  slab  to  become  cool,  after 
which  pound  it  and  again  place  it  in  the  basin  with  half  a  dozen  yolks  of  eggs,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  vanilla  stick,  and  one  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Cook  over  a  slow  fire  without 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  725 

boiling,  and  remove  when  it  covers  the  spatula.     After  it  has  become  cold,  add  one 
pint  of  cream,  straining  it  through  a  sieve,  and  freeze. 

Chestnut  Ice-Cream. 

Into  a  saucepan  with  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  put  six  ounces  of  chestnut  flour,  one 
stick  of  chopped  vanilla,  one  and  one-half  pints  of  cream  and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs. 
Beat  all  well  together,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  thick;  then  strain,  pass  it  through 
a  coarse  hair-sieve,  freeze  it,  add  one-half  pint  of  whipped  cream,  set  it  in  a  mould 
and  pack  in  ice  and  salt;  unmould  just  when  serving. 

Chocolate   Ice-Cream. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  chocolate  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  let  it  melt,  and  work 
with  a  spoon,  add  three  pints  of  vanilla  cream  poured  in  gradually,  and,  lastly,  five 
ounces  of  dissolved  gelatine.  Stir  over  the  ice,  turn  in  a  mould  packed  with  ice,  and 
let  it  freeze. 

Citron   Ice-Cream. 

With  lumps  of  sugar  rub  off  the  rind  of  a  large  citron,  scrape  them  into  a  basin, 
and  stir  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  sweeten  with  sugar  and  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of 
cream.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  freezer,  and  work  it  thoroughly.  When  frozen,  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

Coffee   Ice-Cream. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  ground  coffee  in  a  bottle  with  one  pint  of  water,  and 
allow  it  to  steep  all  night,  then  strain  it  through  a  cloth  previously  rinsed  in  hot 
water.  Beat  twelve  ounces  of  caster-sugar  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of  cream,  and 
mix  this  with  the  coffee.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  freezer,  turn  this  about  with  one 
hand,  and  work  the  cream  from  the  sides  with  the  other.  In  this  way,  the  cream  can 
be  frozen  in  a  few  minutes. 

French    Ice-Cream. 

Boil  one  quart  of  cream  with  a  long  vanilla  bean,  and  then  cool  and  strain.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  a  dozen  eggs,  and  mingle  with  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  mix 
the  flavored  cream  with  the  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire,  take  it  off  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
thicken,  and  stir  for  five  minutes,  then  cool  and  freeze. 

Fruit   Ice-Cream. 

Dissolve  in  the  strained  juice  of  three  lemons,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
mix  with  it  one  wineglassful  each  of  sherry  and  grape  syrup  and  one  pint  of  cream. 
Stir  the  mixture  well,  then  turn  it  into  the  freezer,  and  work  it  until  frozen,  Mix 


726  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

with  the  cream  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  preserved  fruits  cut  into  small  pieces,  turn  all 
into  a  mould,  cover,  and  pack  it  in  pounded  salt  and  ice  for  an  hour  or  so.  Dip  the 
mould  quickly  into  hot  water  to  loosen  the  cream,  wipe  it,  and  turn  the  contents  onto 
a  fancy  dish. 

Ginger   Ice-Cream. 

Put  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  into  a  saucepan  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar  and  work  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  quite  frothy;  stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk  and  a  little  orange  or  lemon  flavoring.  Let  it  get  cold  and  place  in  the  freezer 
until  it  thickens.  Put  half  a  pound  of  preserved  ginger  into  a  mortar,  pound  it  well, 
pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add  first  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  rum  and  then  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  ice.  When  these  ingredients  are  exhausted,  place  it  again  in 
the  freezer,  work  it,  and  when  firm,  place  on  a  paper  on  a  dish  in  the  form  of  rocks, 
and  serve. 

Hazel-nut  Ice-Cream. 

Blanch  and  chop  fine  one-fourth  pound  of  hazel-nuts  weighed  without  their 
shells,  place  them  in  a  basin  with  six  ounces  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  flour  and  six 
well-beaten  eggs.  Pour  one  quart  of  milk  in  a  saucepan,  place  it  over  a  moderate 
fire  until  on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  stir  in  by  degrees  the  other  ingredients  and  stir 
it  at  the  side  of  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  thick,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again 
or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  Take  the  mixture  off  the  fire,  flavor  with  a  few  drops  of 
any  desired  essence  and  turn  into  a  fancy-shaped  mould.  When  the  cream  has 
cooled  slightly,  pack  the  mould  in  pounded  ice  and  sak;  dip  the  mould  in  warm 
water  to  loosen  the  contents,  and  turn  the  cream  onto  a  dish. 

Hickory-nut  Ice-Cream. 

Shell  a  sufficient  quantity  of  hickory-nuts  to  make  a  weight  of  one  pound  of  the 
kernels.  Place  them  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  sugar  and  water  and  pound  them  to  a 
paste.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  in  a  pan  over  the  fire,  allow  it  to  melt  and  brown 
a  little,  add  water  to  dissolve  and  pour  in  one  quart  of  cream;  melt  in  this  two 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  caster-sugar,  add  the  nut-paste,  place  all  in  a  freezer,  and  freeze. 

Kirsch   Ice-Cream. 

Mix  two  wineglassfuls  of  kirsch  with  one-half  wineglassful  of  cream,  add  enough 
sugar  to  sweeten  properly,  place  it  in  the  freezer,  and  when  it  is  sufficiently  stiff,  put 
it  in  a  mould  packed  in  ice,  freeze  again,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  Turn  it  out 
onto  an  ornamental  dish. 

Lemon   Ice-Cream. 

Add  to  the  juice  of  five  lemons  the  grated  peel  of  one,  one-half  pint  of  clarified 
sugar,  and  one  pint  of  cream  ;  mix  all  thoroughly  together,  then  strain  through  a 
sieve  into  a  mould  or  glasses  packed  in  ice,  and  freeze. 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  727 

Lemon    Ice-Cream.  No.  2. 

Boil  one  pint  of  water  together  with  the  strained  juice  of  three  lemons,  and  one 
and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar  for  twenty  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  eight  eggs,  and  one  pinch  of  salt;  pour  the  syrup  in  a  basin,  and  stand  it  in  a  larger 
one  containing  hot  water.  Stir  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  into  the  syrup  and  beat  rapidly 
for  three  minutes.  Remove  the  basin  from  the  boiling  water,  place  it  in 'a  pan  of 
ice-water,  and  beat  until  cold.  Add  the  cream,  pour  all  into  a  freezer,  and  work 
until  frozen. 

Macaroon   Ice-Cream. 

Dry  six  ounces  of  macaroons  in  the  oven.  Remove  them  to  the  table  to  cool, 
place  them  in  a  mortar,  pound,  sift  thoroughly,  and  lay  a  sheet  of  paper  over  ;  have 
ready  a  vanilla  ice-cream,  add  it  to  the  sifted  macaroons,  and  mix  them  thoroughly 
with  the  spatula  for  five  minutes,  and  with  this  fill  a  three-pint  mould  and  cover  it 
tightly.  Have  a  pail  ready  with  room  for  broken  ice  and  rock-salt  at  the  bottom,  lay 
the  mould  in  and  fill  up  the  pail  with  more  ice  and  salt.  Let  it  freeze  for  two  hours 
and  when  it  is  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  into  warm  water,  turn  the  cream  out  onto 
a  fancy  dish,  and  serve  right  away. 

Maraschino   Ice-Cream. 

Place  two  quarts  of  cream  in  a  pan  on  the  fire.  Whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to 
a  froth,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  beaten  up  with  one  pound  of  powdered 
white  sugar ;  stir  them  lightly  together,  and  when  the  cream  boils,  add  to  it  by 
degrees,  whisking  all  the  time.  Place  the  mixture  over  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  two 
times,  still  whisking  ;  then  run  it  through  a  sieve.  When  it  is  cold  mix  it  with 
three  liqueur  glassfuls  of  Maraschino,  place  in  a  freezer,  cover,  and  freeze  it. 

Orange   Ice-Cream. 

Put  the  rinds  of  two  oranges  rubbed  off  with  three-fourth  pound  of  sugar  into 
a  saucepan,  add  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  the  juice  of  six  oranges,  and  a  little  salt, 
stir  well  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  working  it  briskly ;  then  pour  it  into 
a  mould  packed  in  ice,  freeze,  and  when  wanted  turn  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  very 
cold. 

Neapolitan  Ice-Cream. 

Make  one  pint  of  vanilla  ice  cream,  one  pint  of  raspberry  water  ice  and  one  pint 
of  pistachio  ice  cream.  Take  a  long  brick-form  mould,  holding  three  pints,  put  the 
raspberry  water  ice  at  the  bottom,  arrange  the  vanilla  cream  on  top,  and  fill  up  with 
the  pistachio,  and  cover  tightly.  Set  the  mould  on  broken  ice,  mixed  with  rock  salt, 
at  the  bottom  of  a  pail;  fill  up  the  pail  with  more  ice  and  salt,  and  freeze  for  two 
hours.  Plunge  the  mould  in  warm  water  to  wash  off  the  ice  and  salt,  and  turn  the 


728  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

cream  on  a  piece  of  paper  laid  on  the  table.  Dip  a  long  knife  in  warm  water,  cut  the 
brick  lengthwise  through  the  middle,  divide  each  piece  into  three,  so  that  the 
Neapolitan  will  then  be  in  six  equal-sized  pieces,  each  having  the  three  kinds  of 
cream.  Dress  on  a  cold  dish,  with  a  fancy  paper  on  top,  and  serve. 

New  York   Ice-Cream. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  milk,  one-fourth  pound  of  gelatine, 
ten  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  set  the  saucepan  at  the  side  of  the  fire,  where  the  milk  will 
heat  up  by  degrees,  and  thus  give  the  gelatine  time  to  dissolve;  stir  frequently  from  the 
bottom  until  the  milk  boils,  add  a  vanilla  bean.  Pour  a  little  more  milk  in  a  bowl, 
together  with  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs,  whisk  them  well,  pour  the  boiling  milk  over,  and 
strain  into  a  freezer.  The  vanilla  bean  may  be  wiped  and  put  away  to  be  used  another 
time.  When  the  custard  has  become  cold,  and  has  begun  to  freeze,  whisk  the  cup  of 
cream  to  froth,  stir  it  in,  and  finish  the  freezing  as  usual,  working  the  cream  until  it  is 
twice  its  original  bulk.  It  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Nougat  Ice-Cream. 

Put  the  nougat  in  a  mortar  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water,  and 
pound  it.  Put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  saucepan  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of 
cream,  and  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  sugar  and  beat.  Mix  the  bruised  nougat 
and  three  drops  of  the  essence  of  peach-kernels  with  the  milk  and  eggs,  and  stir  the 
whole  over  the  fire  till  on  the  point  of  thickening.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve  into  a  basin  and  leave  till  cooled.  When  ready  turn  the  nougat  cream 
into  the  "freezer  and  freeze  it.  The  cream  can  be  served  as  it  is  or  may  be  turned  into 
moulds  and  packed  in  ice  for  about  two  hours.  Before  serving,  the  mould  should  be 
dipped  in  warm  water,  wiped,  and  the  contents  turned  out  on  a  fancy  dish. 

Nut   Ice-Cream. 

Beat  well  the  yolks  of  seven  or  eight  eggs  in  a  saucepan  and  add  gradually 
about  twelve  ounces  of  sifted  crushed  loaf  sugar,  working  it  to  a  froth  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  then  pour  in  one  pint  of  boiling  milk  and  add  one  stick  of  vanilla  to  flavor. 
Pour  the  cream  into  a  basin  and  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  nuts  blanched  and  pounded 
to  a  paste  with  a  few  blanched  sweet  almonds.  Let  the  preparation  cool,  pass  it 
through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  freezer,  and  when  frozen  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Peach  Ice-Cream. 

Peel  six  ripe  peaches  and  boil  them  in  one-fourth  pint  of  water  till  dissolved; 
pass  the  pulp  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  then  mix  with  it  one  pint  of  syrup,  one  pint 
of  thick  cream,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  kernels,  and  color  it  lightly  with  a  little 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 


729 


cochineal.  Put  the  preparation  in  a  freezing-pot  and  work  it  till  frozen.  Fill  a  plain 
mould  with  the  peach  ice,  put  the  lid  on,  and  pack  it  in  ice.  When  ready  to  serve, 
dip  the  mould  in  tepid  water,  wipe  it  and  turn  the  cream  out  onto  a  dish. 

Pear   Ice-Cream. 

Peel  twelve  mellow  pears,  cut  them  in  quarters  and  core,  pass  them  through  a 
fine  hair-sieve  with  one  pint  of  cream,  sweeten  to  taste  with  sugar,  and  squeeze  in  a 
little  lemon  juice.  Turn  the  preparation  into  a  freezing-pot  working  it  from  the  sides 
to  the  middle  as  it  freezes.  When  frozen  put  the  cream  in  an  ice-mould,  cover  and 
pack  it  in  ice.  Turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish  when  ready  to  serve. 

Pistachio   Ice-Cream. 

Place  in  a  saucepan  six  ounces  of  pistachios  after  they  have  been  well  scalded, 
cleaned  and  pounded,  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  the 
yolks  of  eight  eggs,  a  little  salt  and  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cream  (or  milk), 
place  over  the  fire  and  stir  it  well  until  quite  thick;  then  rub  it  through  a  fine  hair- 
sieve  into  a  basin  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water  to  flavor,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  spinach  green  to  color  and  turn  all  into  the  freezer,  and  when  it  becomes 
thoroughly  frozen  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Plombiere   Ice-Cream. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk  or  cream,  fourteen  ounces  of 
caster-sugar,  six  ounces  of  ground  sweet  almonds  and  fifteen  bitter  ones  (previously 
well  pounded  with  one  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water),  three  ounces  of  apricot 
jam  diluted  with  one  teacupful  of  water,  and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  place  the 
pan  over  the  fire,  stirring  constantly;  when  the  mixture  begins  to  get  thick  take  it  off 
and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin.  Pour  the  preparation  into  a  freezer, 
twisting  the  pan  vigorously,  and  sometimes  working  with  a  knife  or  spatula.  When 
the  mixture  is  nearly  stiff,  add  the  whites  of  two  Italian  meringues  and  work  well 
again,  add  last  of  all  one-half  pint  of  well-whipped  cream.  It  can  either  be  turned 
out  onto  moulds,  or  served  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin.  Heap  it  up  in  layers  with 
apricot  jam  between,  surrounded  at  the  base  with  some  almond  cakes. 

Plum  Ice-Cream. 

Put  in  a  basin  one  quart  of  freshly-gathered  plums,  and  work  in  one  pound  of 
finely-crushed  loaf  sugar.  When  the  sugar  is  quite  dissolved,  pour  over  it  a  quart  of 
cream,  and  beat  well  together,  passing  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  the 
freezer,  and  then  turn  it  into  a  mould  packed  with  ice  until  it  is  quite  set,  when  it  may 
be  served. 


730  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

Portuguese   Ice-Cream. 

Put  one-fourth  pound  of  sugar  into  a  pan,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  until  it 
begins  to  boil;  then  place  it  in  the  oven  to  bake.  Remove  it  when  done,  and 
add  a  stick  of  bruised  cinnamon,  and  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon.  Put  it  back  in  the 
oven  and  let  it  remain  for  a  few  minutes  longer;  pour  one-half  pint  of  water  into  a 
basin  containing  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs,  one  and  one-half  pints  of  milk,  and  one  pound 
of  caster-sugar;  stir  these  well  together  and  pour  into  the  pan  on  the  fire,  stir  until  it 
thickens,  and  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  bowl  or  basin.  Add  one  wine- 
glassful  of  curacoa,  place  the  basin  on  the  ice  to  freeze  the  contents,  and  just  before 
it  is  completed  mix  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  well-whipped  cream,  three  ounces  ot 
sliced  pistachios,  and  the  same  quantity  of  finely-minced  candied  orange-peel.  When 
it  has  frozen  sufficiently,  it  is  ready  to  be  served. 

Punch  Ice-Cream. 

Make  about  one-half  teacupful  of  strong  green  tea,  strain  it  when  cold,  mix  with 
it  one  pint  of  rich  cream,  and  add  two  wineglassfuls  of  rum  and  the  strained  juice  of 
half  a  lemon.  Sweeten  the  cream  to  taste,  pour  it  into  a  freezing-pot,  work  it  until 
well  frozen,  then  pack  it  in  a  mould,  and  bury  it  in  pounded  ice  and  salt  for  an  hour. 
When  ready  to  serve  the  mould  must  be  dipped  into  hot  water,  wiped  quickly,  and 
then  turned  out  onto  a  hot  dish. 

Ratafia  Ice-Cream. 

Put  eight  ounces  of  crushed  ratafias  into  a  saucepan,  pour  over  two  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  ratafia  cream,  add  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  and  a  little  sugar,  and  stir 
well  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  is  quite  smooth  and  has  the  appearance  of  custard. 
Pass  it  through  a  fine  wire-sieve  into  a  freezer,  work  well,  turn  it  into  a  mould  packed 
in  ice,  and  let  it  stay  there  until  required.  The  ratafias  should  be  crushed  as  fine 
as  possible. 

Sherbet  Ice-Cream. 

Beat  up  very  lightly  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  tablespoonful  of  orange- 
flower  water,  then  mix  in  by  degrees  one  quart  of  cream.  Turn  this  into  a  saucepan 
over  the  fire,  cover  over,  and  as  quickly  as  it  boils  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  mix 
into  it  six  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar.  As  soon  as  the  sugar  is  quite  melted, 
pour  the  cream  into  an  ice-pail,  and  stand  it  in  a  refrigerator  until  frozen. 

Strawberry   Ice-Cream. 

Put  one  pound  of  strawberries  into  a  basin  with  sufficient  crushed  loaf  sugar  to 
sweeten,  add  the  strained  juice  of  one  or  two  lemons,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a 
sieve  into  another  basin.  Add  a  little  cochineal  to  color,  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 


731 


cream,  and  more  sifted  sugar  if  required.  Turn  the  preparation  into  the  freezer,  work 
it  well,  place  it  in  a  mould  packed  in  ice,  let  it  set,  then  turn  it  out,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use. 

Vanilla   Ice-Cream. 

Mix  thoroughly  together  one  quart  of  nice  fresh  cream,  a  well-beaten  egg  and 
one  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar;  add  one-fourth  of  a  vanilla  bean  cut  into  pieces, 
place  it  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  and  keep  it  stirred  constantly  till  on  the  point  of 
boiling;  then  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  When  cold 
place  it  in  a  freezer  and  stir  until  well  frozen.  Repack  the  freezer  with  ice  and  let 
the  ice  cream  remain  well  covered  until  frozen. 

Vanilla  and    Chocolate   Ice-Cream. 

Make  some  white  vanilla  and  some  chocolate  cream,  separately,  but  make  them 
both  of  the  same  consistency.  Brush  a  mould  lightly  over  with  oil,  rest  it  slantingly 
on  the  ice  and  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  the  vanilla  cream.  When  that  is  frozen 
alter  the  position  of  the  mould  and  pour  in  some  of  the  chocolate  cream.  When 
this  is  frozen  proceed  as  before  until  the  mould  is  full,  changing  the  position  of  the 
mould  each  time — sometimes  leaning  to  one  side  and  again  to  another  in  regular 
intervals.  Then  pack  the  mould  in  pounded  ice  for  two  hours,  or  till  wanted; 
dip  the  mould  into  warm  water,  turn  the  contents  onto  a  raised  dish,  and  serve. 

Vanilla   and   Strawberry   Ice-Cream. 

Pour  one  and  one-half  pints  of  thick  cream  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pod  of  vanilla 
and  boil  it.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  and  beat  them  together;  then  pour  in  the  boiled  cream  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  thick,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil  or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  When  thick  pass  the 
mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin.  Mix  one  pint  of  syrup  at  35  degrees 
with  one  pint  of  strawberry  puree,  stirring  well  together;  then  pass  it  through  a  silk 
sieve.  Turn  the  vanilla  cream  into  an  ice-mould  and  the  strawberry  mixture  into 
another,  pack  them  both  in  pounded  ice  and  salt,  and  work  the  contents  with  a  spatula 
until  smooth  and  frozen.  Cut  a  piece  of  cardboard  to  fit  the  center  of  an  ice-mould 
and  place  it  in  perpendicularly,  dividing  the  mould  into  two  equal  parts;  fill  one  side 
with  the  vanilla  ice  and  the  other  with  the  strawberry  ice,  remove  the  piece  of  card- 
board and  pack  the  mould  in  ice  and  leave  it  for  two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve, 
dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  wipe  it,  turn  the  contents  out  onto  a  folded  napkin,  and 
serve. 

Walnut   Ice-Cream. 

Blanch  and  skin  one-half  pound  of  walnut  kernels,  place  them  in  a  mortar  with 
a  scant  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water,  and  pound  them  until  quite  smooth, 


732  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

adding  by  degrees  one-half  teacupful  of  milk.  Turn  the  mixture  onto  a  wire-sieve 
and  rub  it  through  with  a  wooden  spoon,  having  a  basin  underneath  to  catch  it.  Mix 
three-fourths  of  a  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  with  the  walnuts  and  one-half  pound  of 
fine  sugar.  Stir  well,  add  one  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  thick  cream,  turn  the 
mixture  into  a  freezer  and  work  it  well.  When  frozen,  pile  the  cream  on  a  glass  dish, 
or  in  small  glasses,  and  serve  at  once. 

Wine    Ice-Cream. 

Put  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  cream  into  a  saucepan  with  the  yolks  of  five  eggs, 
and  prepare  a  custard.  Pour  it  in  a  basin,  let  it  get  cold,  add  two  wineglassfuls  of 
white  wine  and  sufficient  syrup  or  sugar  to  sweeten,  and  freeze  in  a  freezer.  Stir  in  a 
little  chopped  preserved  mixed  fruits,  turn  the  cream  into  a  mould  packed  in  ice,  let 
it  set,  and  turn  it  out  on  a  cold  dish  for  use. 

Ice   Cups. 

Pack  one  dozen  flat  champagne  glasses  or  small  tumblers  in  a  tub  with  pounded 
ice  and  salt  around  them;  a  little  brine  at  the  bottom  of  the  tub  is  also  advisable.  Fill 
these  glasses  with  any  fruit  syrup,  such  as  raspberry,  strawberry,  or  cherry,  cover  the 
tub  with  a  cloth  and  leave  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  so  that  the  syrup  will  be 
frozen  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  all  round  the  sides  of  the  glass.  Pour 
out  the  unfrozen  syrup  and  replace  the  glasses  in  the  ice  for  a  few  minutes  longer, 
in  order  to  thoroughly  set  the  inside  of  the  syrup  case;  turn  these  ice  cups  out  care- 
fully and  fill  the  cavity  with  Curacoa  ice  cream,  nut  ice-cream,  or  any  ice  of  a  differ- 
ent color  from  the  cups,  and  serve. 

Lemon    Granite    Ice. 

Mix  one  pint  of  filtered  lemon-juice  with  three  pints  of  syrup  at  twenty-eight 
degrees  and  freeze  it  into  icicles  in  a  freezing-pot.  The  granite  should  be  served  in 
small  glasses. 

Orange  Granite  Ice. 

Remove  the  peels  from  six  or  eight  oranges,  cut  them  up  into  quarters,  and  take 
out  the  inner  pith  and  pips.  Place  them  in  a  basin,  and  pour  over  three  pints  of 
syrup  at  20  degrees  (See  Syrups),  let  them  remain  for  two  hours,  remove  and  place 
them  on  a  strainer  to  drain.  Pass  the  syrup  through  a  sieve  into  the  freezer  (See 
Ices),  and  when  frozen  to  icicles  add  the  drained  quarters  of  oranges  and  cover.  Let 
it  remain  twenty  minutes  longer,  then  serve  in  glasses  or  cups. 

Caramel  Mousse. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  nine  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with  a  dozen  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar,  then  pour  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  and  stir  the  mixture  over  a  slow  fire 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  733 

till  it  thickens  and  is  on  the  boiling  point;  remove  it  at  once,  for  if  it  is  allowed  to 
boil  the  eggs  will  curdle;  pass  the  cream  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  basin,  and 
stir  until  it  has  cooled.  Put  a  half-pound  of  sugar  into  a  small  pan,  and  stir  it  over 
the  fire  until  it  has  boiled  to  a  dark  brown.  Stir  in  one  teacupful  of  water  with  the 
caramel,  and  boil  it  a  few  minutes  longer.  Whip  the  cooled  mixture  over  ice  for 
about  ten  minutes,  then  gradually  mix  in  the  caramel  and  four  teacupfuls  of  whipped 
cream.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  dome-shaped  mould,  put  a  sheet  of  paper  on  the 
top,  and  close  the  lid;  then  pack  it  in  pounded  ice  and  salt.  The  mousse  should  be 
kept  for  at  least  one  hour  in  the  ice.  Dip  the  mould  in  milk-warm  water,  wipe  it, 
and  turn  the  mousse  out  onto  a  folded  napkin  or  an  ornamental  dish-paper  that  has 
been  placed  on  a  dish,  garnish  with  small  sponge-cakes  decorated  with  dried  cherries, 
and  serve. 

Chestnut  Mousse. 

With  one-half  pound  of  chestnut  puree  mix  about  six  ounces  of  sugar  flavored 
with  vanilla,  beat  it  well  with  a  spoon  until  it  is  quite  smooth,  and  then  add  three 
wineglassfuls  of  sweetened  whipped  cream.  Pour  the  preparation  into  a  dome-shaped 
mould  previously  buried  in  salted  ice,  cover  the  mould,  solder  its  joints  with  flour  and 
water  paste,  and  keep  it  in  the  ice  for  one  hour.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould 
in  hot  water,  wipe,  and  turn  the  mousse  out  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Charlotte  Mousse. 

Soften  three  cakes  of  chocolate.  When  soft  work  the  chocolate  to  a  paste  with 
a  little  syrup  flavored  with  vanilla;  warm  and  add  the  white  of  one  egg  whipped  and 
sweetened,  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  whipped  cream,  flavored  with  vanilla  sugar.  Pack 
a  quart  mould  in  pounded  and  salted  ice,  fill,  put  a  cover  on,  lay  ice  on  the  top  of 
that  and  leave  for  an  hour,  then  unmould  onto  a  dish. 

Strawberry   Mousse. 

Pick  the  stems  from  one  pound  of  freshly-gathered  ripe  strawberries,  pass  the 
fruit  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into  a  preserving-pan,  mix  with  it  a  few  tablespoonfuls 
of  vanilla  sugar  and  set  the  pan  on  the  fire,  stirring  constantly  until  the  puree  is  well 
mixed.  Move  the  pan  from  the  fire,  set  it  on  pounded  ice,  and  stir  until  the  contents 
are  cold.  Mix  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  with  one  and  one-half  pints  of 
cream,  flavor  with  a  little  essence  of  vanilla,  and  whip  it  well.  Mix  the  cream  with 
the  puree.  Line  a  dome-shaped  mould  with  white  paper,  fill  it  with  the  above  mixture, 
place  a  round  of  paper  on  the  top,  and  place  the  lid  on  the  mould,  solder  the  open- 
ings with  butter,  and  pack  the  mould  in  pounded  ice.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the 
mould  in  cold  water,  wipe  it,  and  turn  the  contents  onto  a  folded  napkin  laid  on  a 
dish. 


734 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 


Mousse  with   Coffee. 


Put  four  ounces  of  coffee  into  a  small  saucepan,  pour  over  a  little  more  than  one 
teacupful  of  water,  and  add  to  this  one  ounce  of  sugar,  and  boil.  Mix  in  slowly  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  allow  the  mixture  to  become  cold,  strain  it,  and  add  two  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  well-whipped  cream.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  glass,  and  serve. 

Parfait   with  Chocolate. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chocolate  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water,  and  stir 
until  dissolved.  Prepare  a  custard  with  a  pint  of  milk,  ten  eggs,  and  sugar  to  taste, 
mix  the  chocolate  with  this,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  silk-sieve,  then  place  the 
mixture  over  ice,  and  work  in  with  it  a  small  quantity  of  cream  and  syrup.  When 
smooth,  pack  it  in  ice  for  two  hours. 

Alexandria  Iced  Pudding. 

Place  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  milk  or  cream  in  a  saucepan  with  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs  and  sugar  to  the  taste,  and  stir  them  into  a  custard;  next  turn  this  custard 
into  a  basin,  and  when  it  becomes  cold,  mix  in  four  ounces  of  ratafia  cakes,  broken  in 
pieces,  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  flavor  with  two  or  three  drops  of  extract  of  bitter 
almonds;  pack  the  basin  in  ice,  and  freeze  until  the  mixture  has  been  reduced  to  the 
freezing-point.  Place  a  layer  of  this  iced  mixture  at  the  bottom  of  a  mould,  and  on 
top  of  this  arrange  a  few  strawberries  preserved  whole,  and  from  which  the  syrup  has 
been  thoroughly  drained,  having  dipped  them,  one  at  a  time,  into  lemonjuice.  Con- 
tinue to  put  in  layers,  as  above,  until  all  the  ingredients  are  used,  then  return  the 
mould  to  the  ice,  and  let  it  remain  there  for  a  couple  of  hours,  turn  the  pudding 
out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Iced   Cabinet   Pudding. 

Cut  in  slices  of"  moderate  thickness  some  sponge-cakes,  also  some  preserved 
pineapple,  ginger,  apricots  and  pears,  all  in  equal  quantities.  Fill  a  plain  pudding- 
mould  with  alternate  layers  of  the  above  ingredients,  strewing  between  each  layer 
a  few  raisins  and  currants,  pour  over  these  ingredients  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wine 
to  moisten  the  cake,  and  leave  them  for  an  hour.  Soak  one  ounce  of  gelatine  in 
cold  water,  then  strain  it  into  a  basin,  and  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  four 
ounces  of  sugar,  three  ounces  of  grated  chocolate,  and  one  and  one-half  pints  of 
milk ;  stand  the  basin  in  a  bain-marie,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  thickened.  Pour  the 
hot  custard  over  the  contents  of  the  mould,  and  cover  it  securely.  When  the  con- 
tents are  cool,  bury  it  in  pounded  ice  and  salt  for  seven  or  eight  hours.  Afterward 
dip  the  mould  into  tepid  water,  quickly  remove  it,  wipe  it,  turn  the  pudding  out 
onto  a  fancy  dish,  garnish  with  croutons  of  red  currant  jelly,  and  serve. 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  735 

Frozen    Fig   Pudding. 

Put  into  a  saucepan  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  without  any  water  over  a  mod- 
erate fire,  and  melt  it  until  it  becomes  like  molasses;  add  one  teacupful  of  water,  and 
boil  up  until  the  sugar  is  all  dissolved.  Put  into  a  basin  one  quart  of  milk  and  four- 
teen ounces  of  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs;  strain  the  caramel  or  boiled  sugar 
into  it,  and  put  all  into  a  freezer.  Chop  up  fine  one  pound  of  dried  figs  to  about  the 
size  of  sultana  raisins,  and  add  them  also,  when  they  are  well  mixed  in,  add  the 
pudding  frozen  a  little,  put  it  into  a  mould,  and  pack  the  mould  in  pounded  ice  and 
salt  for  two  hours  or  so,  or  until  stiff  and  set.  Turn  it  out  onto  a  cold  dish,  and  serve. 
A  teacupful  of  curacoa  instead  of  the  water  may  be  added  to  the  melted  sugar,  if 
preferred. 

Iced   Pudding. 

Prepare  a  custard  with  one  pint  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  and  twelve 
ounces  of  crushed  loaf  sugar.  Mix  in  one  wineglassful  of  maraschino  cordial,  freeze 
until  quite  stiff,  add  one  and  one-half  ounce  each  of  preserved  dried  cherries,  pears, 
pine-apples  and  citron,  all  cut  into  very  small  pieces,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vanilla 
extract ;  stir  well  and  freeze  again ;  have  ready  a  melon-shaped  mould  packed  in  ice 
and  salt,  fill  it  with  the  mixture,  cover  it  over,  pack  more  ice  on  top,  and  let  it  re- 
main for  two  hours.  Turn  the  pudding  out  onto  a  dish,  cover  it  with  a  mixture  of 
the  whites  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  lightly  mixed  in  with 
six  ounces  of  finely-powdered  loaf  sugar,  sprinkle  over  a  few  pistachios  chopped 
fine,  and  serve  at  once. 

Nesselrode    Pudding. 

Peel  the  outer  skins  of  about  forty  chestnuts  and  boil  them  in  water  for  about 
thirty  minutes;  take  them  out,  remove  the  inner  skin  and  then  pound  them  to  a 
paste,  adding  one  pinch  of  salt  during  the  pounding.  Pass  this  paste  through  a 
sieve,  moistening  it  with  a  little  cream.  Have  in  readiness  one  pint  of  boiled  custard 
and  add  it  to  the  chestnut-paste.  Place  the  whole  in  the  freezer,  and  when  it  is  firm, 
beat  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream  to  a  froth  and  work  it  in;  freeze  again  and  add 
two  ounces  each  of  raisins,  citron-peel  and  stewed  or  candied  pineapple,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  vanilla  extract  and  one  teacupful  of  maraschino.  Work  them  well  and  freeze 
again,  then  place  the  pudding  in  a  dome-shaped  mould,  set  it  on  the  ice,  and  when 
wanted,  turn  it  out  and  decorate  with  angelica  points  and  half  cherries,  garnishing 
round  the  dish  with  crystallized  apricots  or  greengages. 

Iced   Nut   Pudding. 

Blanch  about  four  dozen  fresh  nuts  of  any  kind,  pound  half  of  them  with  a  few 
blanched  sweet  almonds  and  put  the  paste  into  a  saucepan  with  one  and  one-half 


736  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

pints  of  hot  vanilla  cream.  Stir  well  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  is  thick,  then  let 
it  cool  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin;  pour  a  little  of  it  at  the  bottom 
of  a  dome-shaped  mould  packed  in  salted  ice,  sprinkle  over  a  few  of  the  remaining 
nuts  cut  in  halves  and  repeat  till  the  mould  is  full.  Lay  a  round  of  paper  on  the  top, 
then  the  lid  of  the  mould,  cementing  it  round  with  paste  of  flour,  cover  the 
mould  with  ice  and  let  it  remain  for  one  hour. 


Iced   Plum   Pudding. 

Boil  together  half  a  pint  of  cream  with  the  thinly-shredded  rind  of  half  a  lemon 
and  a  small  piece  of  citron.  Place  in  a  basin  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  four 
ounces  of  caster-sugar  and  beat  well,  then  pour  in  the  boiling  cream  a  little  at  a  time; 
stand  the  basin  in  a  bain-marie  and  stir  continually  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then 
take  it  out  and  mix  in  a  teacupful  of  very  dark  caramel.  When  nearly  cool,  turn  it 
into  a  freezing-mould  and  leave  it  there  until  it  has  about  the  stiffness  of  snow.  Then 
blanch  and  chop  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  or  pistachio  nuts,  shred  one  ounce  of 
candied  orange-peel  and  candied  pineapples  fine  and  chop  one  ounce  each  of  candied 
cherries  and  sultanas;  place  all  of  these  in  a  basin,  pour  half  a  wineglassful  of  brandy 
and  a  similar  amount  of  cura£oa  and  soak  for  an  hour  or  two.  Whisk  half  a  pint  of 
cream  and  one  white  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  the  fruit  mixture  and  whipped  cream 
to  the  frozen  mixture  and  let  it  remain  in  the  freezer  a  short  time  longer.  Then 
pack  it  in  a  mould,  close  tightly  and  bury  it  in  ice.  Make  a  sauce  as  follows:  Rub 
the  yellow  rinds  of  one  orange  and  one  lemon  with  two  or  three  lumps  of  sugar, 
place  in  a  basin  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  the  fruit;  add  one  and  a  half  wineglassfuls 
of  clarified  syrup  and  a  wineglassful  each  of  wine  and  brandy.  Work  in  the  freezer 
until  about  half  frozen,  then  turn  the  pudding  onto  a  fancy  dish,  pile  the  frozen  sauce 
around  it,  and  serve. 


Punch  in   Surprise. 


Have  six  different  fancy  moulds,  resembling  in  shape  an  apple,  pear,  banana, 
tomato,  pineapple  and  peach.  Fill  a  tin  pan  with  ice  well  mixed  with  rock  salt,  lay 
on  it  the  six  moulds,  opened  flat,  fill  them  with  cold  water,  also  the  pan  to  half  its 
height,  and  let  them  remain  for  half  an  hour,  feeling  the  interiors  of  the  mould  to 
ascertain  whether  a  crust  adheres  to  them.  Have  in  readiness  any  kind  of  punch; 
take  up  each  mould  separately,  empty  out  the  water,  fill  one  after  another  with  the 
punch,  close  tightly,  and  lay  them  in  a  pail  previously  prepared  with  broken  ice  and 
rock  salt  at  the  bottom;  cover  with  a  liberal  allowance  of  extra  ice  and  salt,  and  let 
them  freeze  for  an  hour.  Have  ready  a  cold  dish  with  a  folded  napkin  over  it;  pour 
some  warm  water  into  a  vessel,  take  up  each  mould  separately,  dip  it  into  the  water 
and  quickly  wash  off  any  ice  or  salt  that  may  adhere;  turn  them  out  carefully,  place 
them  on  a  dish  and  send  to  the  table. 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 


Kirsch    Punch. 


737 


Put  in  a  dish  one-fourth  pound  of  powdered  sugar  with  one  pint  of  cold  water, 
grate  in  the  rind  of  a  small  lemon,  squeezing  in  the  juice  of  one  and  one-half  good- 
sized  ones,  and  beat  well  together  with  the  spatula  for  five  minutes;  add  one  gill  of 
kirsch,  mix  a  little  more,  and  strain  through  a  sieve  into  a  freezer.  Place  the  lid  on 
and  lay  it  in  an  ice-tub,  filling  the  freezer  all  around  with  broken  ice  mixed  slightly 
with  rock  salt,  and  turn  the  handle  as  briskly  as  possible  for  two  minutes.  Lift  up 
the  lid  and  with  a  wooden  spoon  detach  the  punch  from  the  sides  and  bottom 
of  the  freezer.  Re-cover  it  and  turn  the  handle  briskly  for  three  minutes  more;  un- 
cover again  and  detach  the  punch  the  same  as  before,  being  careful  that  no  ice  or 
salt  drops  in.  Put  the  lid  on  and  repeat  the  same  operation  three  times  more.  When 
ready,  serve  in  half  a  dozen  small  punch  glasses. 

Maraschino    Punch. 

Put  one  pound  of  sugar  in  a  basin  with  one  quart  of  water  and  add  the  juice  of 
a  lemon  and  an  orange  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  maraschino.  When  it  is  well 
mixed  strain  it  into  a  freezer  again,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Roman    Punch. 

Pour  into  a  freezing-pot  one  quart  of  peach  water-ice,  a  bottle  of  dry  champagne, 
two  wineglassfuls  of  noyau,  and  the  strained  juice  of  four  oranges.  Color  it  a  delicate 
pink  with  a  few  drops  of  cochineal,  and  flavor  with  essence  of  vanilla.  Work  the 
mixture  until  almost  frozen,  then  add  gradually  the  whites  of  three  eggs  made  into 
Italian  meringue;  work  all  together  quickly  until  smooth,  and  then  serve. 


Strawberry    Punch. 


Pick  the  stems  from  one  quart  of  freshly-gathered  ripe  strawberries,  put  the  fruit 
into  a  deep  dish,  cover  them  with  two  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  sugar,  and 
leave  till  a  thick  syrup  has  formed.  Pass  the  strawberries  and  syrup  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve  into  a  freezer  and  mix  with  them  one  teacupful  of  sweet  wine  and  one  and 
one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water;  stir  until  mixed,  and  leave  until  frozen.  Serve 
the  punch  in  small  glasses. 

American    Sherbet. 

Secure  some  tin  moulds  to  imitate  high-shaped  wineglasses,  fill  them  with  pure 
cold  water,  close  them  securely,  and  pack  them  in  pounded  ice.  In  the  meantime 
mix  in  equal  quantities  some  fruit  syrup,  wine  and  orange  or  lemon  juice;  almost  any 


738  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

kind  of  fruit  syrup  may  be  used.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  freezing-pot  and  work  it 
well  until  frozen.  The  sherbet  must  not  be  frozen  too  firmly,  yet  it  must  be  consist- 
ent enough  to  be  piled  up  in  pyramids  in  the  ice  glasses.  When  the  water  has  frozen 
enough  to  take  the  form  of  the  moulds,  turn  it  out  carefully,  drain  out  any  liquid  that 
has  not  frozen,  and  fill  up  the  ice  glasses  with  the  frozen  syrup,  piling  it  up  high. 
Stand  the  glasses  on  a  fancy  dish  and  pass  them  round.  If  desired,  the  water  may 
be  colored  before  being  frozen  in  the  moulds,  and  a  different  color  may  be  used  in 
almost  every  mould;  this  will  have  a  very  pretty  effect  when  served. 

Carnot  Sherbet. 

Have  in  readiness  an  orange  water  ice,  in  which  mix  a  little  carmine,  kirsch  and 
orange-flower  water.  It  should  be  dressed  in  a  small  nest  with  a  little  bird  perched 
on  its  edge;  the  bird,  the  inside  and  the  bottom  should  be  made  of  gum  paste,  and 
the  outside  of  the  nest  should  be  imitated  with  spun  sugar  and  the  grass  with  fillets 
of  angelica.  It  should  be  served  immediately  on  its  completion. 

White-Cherry   Sherbet. 

Remove  the  stems  and  stones  from  four  breakfast  cupfuls  of  large  ripe  white 
cherries,  put  them  in  a  mortar,  pound  thoroughly  so  as  to  break  the  stones,  and  strain 
the  juice  into  a  freezer.  Put  the  pulp  into  a  saucepan  with  one  teacupful  of  sugar 
and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water,  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  in  order  to  extract  the 
flavor  from  the  kernels,  pass  the  mixture  through  a  sieve  into  another  saucepan  and 
add  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water  and  sugar.  Boil  for  a  minute  or  two,  let  the  mix- 
ture cool,  pour  it  into  the  freezer  with  the  juice,  add  the  whites  of  two  eggs  whipped 
to  a  froth,  and  the  sherbet  is  then  ready  for  use.  A  few  whole  cherries  which  have 
been  cooked  in  syrup  may  be  added  to  the  mixture  while  it  is  still  in  the  freezer. 

Cream   Sherbet. 

Thoroughly  beat  one  ounce  of  caster-sugar  into  one  pint  of  cream  and  the  whites 
of  six  eggs  previously  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Dissolve  one  more  ounce  of  caster- 
sugar  in  three  quarts  of  water  and  pour  this  upon  four  lemons  sliced  thin;  mix 
thoroughly  with  the  other,  strain,  and  put  it  into  a  freezer  until  ready  for  serving. 

Kirsch   Sherbet. 

Mix  one  quart  of  syrup  at  35  degrees  with  the  same  quantity  of  chablis,  and 
pass  it  through  a  silk  sieve  into  a  freezer.  Beat  well  with  a  spoon,  and  when  well 
frozen  add  one-half  teacupful  of  kirsch,  mix  again,  put  into  the  glasses,  and  serve. 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  739 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

Pare  one  lemon  thin,  and  squeeze  in  the  rind  of  two,  taking  care  to  keep  back 
the  pips.  Mix  with  it  four  tablespoonfuls  of  loaf  sugar  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
water.  When  the  sugar  has  dissolved  pour  in  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water.  Strain 
and  use.  It  may  be  iced  or  not,  as  desired. 

Orange  Sherbet. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  in  a  little  cold  water  to  soak,  and  then  pour  over 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  boiling  water  to  dissolve  it.  Turn  it  into  a  basin  with  the 
juice  of  ten  large  oranges,  and  add  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  sugar,  and  three  of 
water.  Mix  well  and  when  quite  cold  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  juice  of  a  lemon  may 
be  added  if  the  oranges  are  too  sweet. 

Pineapple  Sherbet. 

Soak  a  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  in  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  for 
two  hours;  peel  a  large  pineapple,  cut  out  the  eyes  and  discolored  parts  and  chop 
fine,  mixing  with  it  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  caster-sugar.  Dissolve  the  soaked 
gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  then  stir  this  and  half  a  pint  of  cold  water  in 
with  the  pineapple;  pour  the  whole  preparation  into  a  freezer  and  freeze.  When 
done,  the  sherbet  should  be  white  and  creamy, 

Strawberry   Sherbet. 

Remove  the  stems  from  one  pound  or  so  of  strawberries,  mash  the  fruit,  mix  with 
it  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  one  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water,  and  three  pints  of 
water.  In  the  course  of  four  hours'  time  strain  the  juice  off  the  strawberries  into 
another  basin,  pressing  them  to  extract  as  much  juice  as  possible.  Mix  with  the  juice 
one  pound  of  double-refined  sugar,  and  stir  it  until  the  sugar  has  dissolved ;  then 
strain  it  and  pack  it  in  ice  for  an  hour. 

Sherbet,  Waldorf  Style. 

Put  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  quart  of  water  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  it  to  a 
syrup.  Put  four  ounces  of  stoned  raisins  into  a  basin  with  five  ounces  of  chopped 
figs,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  and  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon.  Pour  the  syrup  over  the 
above  ingredients,  and  leave  it  till  cool.  Strain  and  color  the  syrup  a  delicate  pink 
with  a  little  prepared  cochineal,  add  the  juice  of  six  oranges,  two  lemons  and  a  small 
quantity  of  cinnamon,  three  or  four  cloves  and  one  quart  of  port  wine.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  the  freezer  and  freeze  it.  When  frozen  take  the  cloves  and  cinnamon 


740  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

out  of  the  mixture,  add  the  scalded  raisins  and  figs,  one-half  pound  of  muscatel 
grapes,  and  one-fourth  pound  of  blanched  almonds.  When  well  incorporated  the 
sherbet  is  ready  for  use. 

Sherbets   with   Champagne. 

Mix  one-fourth  pint  of  champagne  with  one  pint  of  syrup,  and  add  the  juice  of 
one  lemon  and  two  sweet  oranges,  also  the  thinly-peeled  rind  of  the  lemon.  In  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  strain  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  and  give  it  eighteen 
degrees  at  the  syrup  scale  (see  Sugar  Boiling).  Turn  the  sherbet  into  a  freezer,  and 
work  it  with  a  spatula  until  set ;  then  mix  with  it  by  degrees  one-fourth  pint  more  of 
champagne  that  has  been  stirred  in  with  a  little  syrup.  Serve  the  sherbet  in  ice 
glasses. 

Souffle   Ices. 

Pour  one  pint  of  syrup,  at  thirty-two  degrees,  in  a  basin,  and  stir  into  it  the  yolks 
of  fifteen  or  eighteen  eggs;  strain  this  into  a  copper  egg-bowl  made  a  little  warm  by 
pouring  hot  water  into  it  and  wiping  dry  afterward;  add  to  this  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  maraschino,  the  same  quantity  of  filtered  strawberry-juice  and  one  pinch  of  salt. 
Whisk  lightly  but  briskly,  with  the  bowl  standing  about  six  inches  deep  in  very  hot 
water,  and  when  like  creamy  batter  remove  it  from  the  hot  water  and  continue  to 
whisk  for  about  ten  minutes  longer.  Place  a  souffle  case  in  ice,  stir  in  three-fourths 
of  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  to  the  mixture,  and  pour  the  whole  into  the  case.  Place 
a  wide  strip  of  cartridge-paper  round  the  case  and  about  one  and  one-half  inches 
above  it,  so  as  to  give  the  souffle  plenty  of  room  to  rise  like  an  ordinary  souffle. 
When  set  and  firm  turn  it  onto  a  cold  dish,  sprinkle  with  finely-powdered  and  brown- 
baked  Savoy  biscuits,  and  serve. 

Vanilla  and   Chocolate   Souffle,   Iced. 

Put  the  yolks  of  sixteen  eggs  in  a  basin  with  one  teacupful  of  clarified  syrup  and 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  water;  beat  together,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  forms  a  thick 
custard,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Pour  some  boiling  water  in  a  bowl  to  warm  it, 
then  turn  it  out;  pour  the  custard  into  the  bowl,  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
flavoring  and  whip  it  for  several  minutes;  then  stir  in  one  pint  of  whipped  cream  and 
pour  all  into  a  souffle-mould.  Pack  it  in  ice  for  two  hours,  put  a  layer  of  chocolate 
on  top  that  has  been  melted  in  iced  water,  and  leave  for  two  hours  longer.  Serve 
the  souffle  in  the  mould. 

Souffle    Ice-Cream    with   Brandy. 

Mix  one-fourth  pint  of  brandy  with  two  whites  of  Italian  meringues  and  add  one 
pint  of  the  very  best  cream  and  three  ounces  of  ginger  comfits.  Stir  these  well 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  741 

together,  put  them  into  a  mould  embedded  in  finely-pounded  ice  mixed  with  salt  and 
saltpeter,  and  let  it  freeze.     When  quite  firm,  turn  it  out  of  the  mould,  and  serve. 

Souffle   Ice-Cream  with  Maraschino. 

Mix  one  teacupful  of  maraschino  with  two  whites  of  Italian  meringues  when  they 
are  quite  cold.  Add  one  pint  of  well-whipped  cream,  and  the  kernels  of  eighteen 
walnuts  (the  walnuts  should  be  picked  before  they  are  quite  ripe,  and  the  skins 
removed  from  the  kernels).  See  that  they  are  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  other 
ingredients,  and  then  pour  the  preparation  into  a  mould,  which  should  be  mixed  with 
salt  and  saltpeter  and  packed  in  well-pounded  ice.  When  frozen,  turn  out,  and  serve. 

Souffle  Ice-Cream  with  Meringue. 

With  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  one  and  one-half  teacupfuls  of  pineapple  syrup  and  a 
stick  of  vanilla,  make  a  custard.  Mix  this  with  two  whites  of  Italian  meringue  and 
one-half  teacupful  of  noyau  or  maraschino,  and  then  stir  in  thoroughly  one  pint  of 
well-whipped  cream,  and  finally  two  ounces  of  chocolate  pastilles,  and  one-fourth  of 
a  pound  of  pineapple  cut  up  very  small.  When  well  mixed  together  pour  into  a 
mould  and  place  on  the  ice  to  freeze.  When  firm,  turn  it  out,  and  serve. 

Souffle   Ice-Cream  with    Vanilla. 

Take  two  whites  of  Italian  meringue,  and  when  they  are  cold  mix  them  with  one 
ounce  of  vanilla  sugar,  and  a  pint  of  thoroughly  whipped  cream.  Place  a  mould  on 
the  ice  and  pour  in  the  mixture;  then  cover  the  mould  and  place  it  in  pounded  ice 
mixed  with  salt.  When  hard,  turn  out,  and  serve. 

Tutti   Frutti. 

This  is  the  Italian  for  all  sorts  and  kinds  of  fruit.  The  name  is  applied  to  a 
great  variety  of  fruit  dishes,  ices,  etc.,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  recipes: 
Line  the  interior  of  a  three-pint  lemon-shaped  mould  with  one  pint  of  vanilla  cream. 
Cut  four  ounces  of  candied  apricots  into  small  pieces,  also  four  ounces  of  candied 
cherries  into  halves.  Mix  these  well  together.  Spread  half  the  quantity  of  the 
fruits  evenly  round  the  cream  in  the  mould  and  pour  one  pint  of  raspberry  water  ice 
all  round  the  fruits.  Arrange  the  balance  of  the  fruits  round  the  water  ice  and  fill 
the  mould  with  one  pint  of  pistachio  cream  ice.  Cover  the  mould  tightly,  place  it  in 
a  pail  with  a  layer  of  broken  ice  and  rock-salt  at  the  bottom;  fill  up  to  the  top  with 
the  same  and  put  it  into  a  freezer.  Freeze  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Turn  out  the 
tutti  frutti  on  a  glass  stand  and  serve  with  the  following  sauce:  Put  in  a  basin  one 
pint  of  whipped  cream  with  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  one  gill  of  maraschino.  Beat 
the  whole  well  together  for  two  minutes.  Pour  it  over  the  tutti  frutti,  and  immediately 
send  it  to  the  table. 


742  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

Apple  Water   Ice. 

Peel  and  core  the  required  number  of  apples,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  place 
in  a  saucepan;  set  the  pan  over  a  fire  and  cook  until  tender.  Pass  them  through  a 
very  fine  sieve  over  a  basin,  rubbing  as  much  through  as  possible  and  mix  with  water 
highly  flavored  with  lemon.  Pack  the  basin  in  ice,  and  when  the  mixture  is  frozen 
it  is  ready  for  use. 

Apricot  Water   Ice. 

Stew  for  a  few  minutes  some  well-chopped  apricots  and  the  peeled  kernels  of 
half  that  quantity  in  a  little  sugar  and  water.  Rub  the  fruit  with  the  back  of  a  spoon 
through  a  strainer  into  the  freezer  and  mix  in  the  syrup.  Freeze,  and  when  it  is 
nearly  set,  whip  the  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs  to  a  froth,  mix  them  in  and  turn  the 
freezer  rapidly  a  short  time  longer.  Cut  up  a  few  very  ripe  apricots  and  stir  them 
into  the  ice  before  serving.  Canned  apricots  may  be  used  if  fresh  ones  are  not  avail- 
able, and  if  preserved  in  syrup  that  will  answer  for  mixing  with  them,  or  the  liquor 
can  be  made  into  a  syrup  by  boiling  it  with  a  proper  proportion  of  sugar. 

Red   Cherry   Water   Ice. 

Wash  one  quart  of  sweet  red  or  black  cherries,  pound  them  so  as  to  break  the 
stones,  and  pass  the  juice  through  a  strainer  into  a  freezer.  Boil  the  cherry-pulp 
with  some  of  the  sugar  and  water,  in  order  to  extract  the  flavor  from  the  kernels,  and 
pass  that  also  through  the  strainer.  Add  the  other  pint  of  water  and  the  remainder 
of  the  sugar  to  the  amount  of  three-quarters  of  a  pound  and  freeze.  Do  not  use  the 
whites  of  eggs  in  this  ice,  as  the  color  is  not  good  unless  frozen  naturally.  This 
makes  a  nice  ice  for  the  third  color  in  a  Neapolitan. 

Lemon   Water   Ice. 

Rub  off  the  peels  of  six  lemons  onto  one-half  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  place  it  in  a 
basin,  and  strain  the  juice  of  the  lemons  over;  with  this  prepare  a  syrup,  using  four 
or  five  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  and  another  pound  of  sugar.  Strain,  and  then  add 
the  whites  of  four  eggs,  wMl-beaten  together,  with  one  ounce  of  powdered  sugar. 
Place  it  in  the  freezer,  and  work  as  required. 

Madeira  Water   Ice. 

Grate  the  peel  of  two  lemons  into  a  basin,  strain  in  the  juice,  mix  in  one  and 
one-half  pints  of  Madeira  wine  and  one-half  pint  of  syrup.  Stir  well,  and  then  turn 
it  into  a  freezer,  pack  it  in  pounded  ice  and  salt,  and  work  vigorously  until  frozen. 
When  sufficiently  so,  put  the  mixture  into  a  mould,  close,  and  pack  it  in  pounded  ice 


ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES.  743 

and  salt  for  two  hours.     Before  serving  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  wipe  it,  then 
turn  the  contents  carefully  out  onto  a  fancy  china  or  glass  dish. 

Melon   Water   Ice. 

Pound  eight  ounces  of  ripe  melon  in  a  mortar  and  add  two  ounces  of  orange- 
flower  water,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water  and  a  pint  of 
clarified  sugar.  Stir  the  mixture  thoroughly  and  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  in  a 
freezer,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Orange  Water   Ice. 

Put  the  juice  of  four  oranges  and  the  grated  rinds  of  three  into  a  basin  with  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  water,  add  the  juice  of  three  lemons  and  one  pint  of  syrup,  stir 
well,  then  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  mould,  pack  it  in  ice,  freeze  (see  Ices), 
and  when  quite  set  turn  it  out  onto  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Peach   Water   Ice. 

Slice  ten  ripe  peaches  but  do  not  peel  them,  boil  till  soft  in  one-half  pint  of 
water,  then  rub  them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Mix  with  the  pulp  one  pint  of  syrup, 
the  strained  juice  of  one  lemon,  three  or  four  drops  of  oil  of  almonds,  and  color  it 
with  a  little  carmine  or  cochineal.  Put  the  preparation  in  the  freezer,  turn  it  till 
frozen,  then  fill  a  plain  mould  with  it,  put  the  lid  on  and  pack  it  in  ice.  When  ready 
to  serve,  turn  the  contents  of  the  mould  onto  a  fancy  dish. 

Pear  Water   Ice. 

Peel  a  few  ripe  pears  and  grate  them  into  a  basin;  mix  with  them  eight  ounces 
of  powdered  sugar,  the  strained  juice  of  two  oranges  and  one  lemon,  a  little  of  the 
peel  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  sugar.  Leave  it  for  half  an  hour,  then  pass 
the  preparation  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  mix  a  little  cold  water  with  it  and  freeze  it 
in  the  ice  box.  When  firm  take  the  ice  up  with  a  large  spoon  and  pile  it  like  a 
pyramid  on  a  folded  napkin.  Put  some  little  fancy  cakes  round  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Pineapple  Water  Ice. 

Cut  into  halves  a  rather  small  pineapple,  reserving  one-half  for  future  use;  pare 
the  other  half  neatly,  cut  it  into  small  pieces  and  place  them  in  a  mortar,  pounding 
them  thoroughly  to  a  pulp,  say  for  about  ten  minutes.  Then  add  half  a  pound  of 
powdered  sugar  and  again  pound  for  five  minutes,  place  the  whole  of  this  mixture  in 
a  vessel,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  three  lemons,  pour  in  a  quart  of  cold  water,  mix 
thoroughly  with  a  spatula  for  two  minutes,  and  strain  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  into 


744  ICE-CREAMS  AND  ICES. 

the  freezer,  adding  the  whites  of  a  couple  of  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  beat 
well  for  a  minute  or  so  longer,  and  freeze. 

Pistachio  Water  Ice. 

Place  six  ounces  of  blanched  pistachios  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them  to  a  pulp, 
adding  a  little  water  to  prevent  them  from  oiling,  turn  this  preparation  out  into  a 
basin,  and  mix  in  with  it  one  pint  of  lemon  water  ice,  passing  all  through  a  fine  hair- 
sieve  into  a  freezer,  then  turn  out  into  a  mould  well  packed  in  ice,  and  when  it  has 
become  thoroughly  frozen  and  set,  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Raspberry  Water  Ice. 

Place  in  a  basin  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  three 
lemons,  and  add  one  pint  of  picked  and  well-cleaned  raspberries.  Beat  briskly  with 
a  spatula  for  five  minutes,  add  one  quart  of  cold  water,  mixing  again  for  a  minute  or 
two,  and  strain  through  a  sieve  into  the  freezer.  Put  on  the  lid  and  lay  the  freezer 
in  an  ice-tub,  filling  it  all  round  with  broken  ice,  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  rock 
salt.  Turn  the  handle  on  the  cover  as  rapidly  as  possible  for  three  minutes.  Raise 
the  lid,  and  with  a  spoon  detach  the  cream  from  all  round  the  freezer  and  the  bottom 
also.  Remove  it,  and  turn  the  handle  again  sharply  for  three  minutes  more.  Un- 
cover and  detach  the  cream  as  before,  taking  care  that  no  salt  or  ice  drops  in  it. 
Place  the  lid  on,  and  repeat  the  operation  three  times  more.  By  this  time  the  cream 
should  be  quite  firm,  turn  it  out  onto  a  cold  dish,  over  which  has  been  spread  a  napkin, 
and  serve. 


Strawberry   Water  Ice. 


Pick  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  strawberries,  put  them  into  a  basin  with  a  little 
sifted  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve  into  another  basin,  stir  in  three  teacupfuls  of  syrup  and  a  few  drops  of 
cochineal  to  color,  turn  the  preparation  into  the  freezer,  work  it  thoroughly,  and  it  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

Vanilla   Water  Ice. 

Pound  sufficient  vanilla  beans  in  a  mortar  to  flavor  one  quart  of  water.  Pour  that 
quantity  of  water  into  a  saucepan  with  the  pounded  vanilla  and  one-half  pound  of 
loaf  sugar.  Boil  the  ingredients  together,  then  strain  the  mixture  through  a  fine  hair- 
sieve;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  put  it  in  the  freezing-pot,  and  freeze. 


Pastry. 

Almonds. 

The  kernel  of  the  almond  nut  is  largely  used  in  cooking  and  confectionery  for  its 
delicate  flavor.  There  are  two  kinds,  sweet  and  bitter,  so  closely  resembling  each 
other  in  appearance  as  to  be  almost  indistinguishable,  excepting  by  the  taste.  The 
sweet  variety  are  harmless,  but  the  bitter  almonds  contain  or  generate  by  fermenta- 
tion, prussic  acid,  rendering  them  extremely  dangerous  to  use  without  much  discre- 
tion. A  hundred  grains  of  bitter  almond  pulp  are  said  to  contain  two  drops  of  the 
oil,  and  from  fifteen  to  thirty  drops  of  the  oil  are  sufficient  to  cause  death.  The  skins 
of  both  kinds  are  very  indigestible,  and  have  been  known,  even  when  eaten  in  small 
quantities,  to  induce  attacks  of  nettle-rash.  For  this  reason  almonds  should 
invariably  be  skinned  or  blanched  before  using. 

The  best  almonds  are  the  Jordan,  imported  chiefly  from  Malaga,  and  preferred 
for  dessert.  They  are  of  two  kinds;  the  one  above  one  inch  in  length,  flat  with  a 
clean  brown  skin,  sweet,  mucilaginous,  and  rather  tough;  the  other  more  plump, 
pointed  at  one  end,  brittle,  but  quite  as  sweet  as  the  former.  Valencia  almonds  are 
reckoned  of  the  second  quality;  they  are  cheaper,  and  consequently  are  more  used. 
They  are  under  one  inch  long,  round  at  one  end,  and  bluntly  pointed  at  the  other, 
flat  and  of  a  dingy-brown  color,  and  have  a  dusty  skin.  Barbary  and  Italian  almonds 
are  smaller  and  less  flattened.  Spanish  almonds  are  of  mediocre  quality,  and  are 
usually  imported  in  baskets.  When  fresh,  either  kind  may  be  used;  but  cooks 
strongly  recommend  not  to  buy  kernels  of  any  kind  if  they  are  dry,  broken,  worm- 
eaten,  or  smell  in  the  least  degree  rancid. 

To  Blanch  Almonds:  The  almonds  should  be  thrown  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water, 
and  allowed  to  remain  over  the  fire  until  the  skins  will  slip  off  readily  when  rubbed 
between  the  finger  and  thumb.  It  is  well  then  to  drain  them  off,  and  to  plunge  them 
into  cold  water  for  a  minute  or  two,  when  they  may  be  drained  again,  and  the  skins 
rubbed  off  with  a  cloth.  As  they  are  blanched,  throw  them  into  cold  water,  with  a 
little  salt  in  it;  leave  them  for  a  couple  of  hours,  then  take  them  out  and  dry  them. 
They  are  easily  split  with  a  knife,  or  may  be  cut  lengthwise  into  long  shreds,  accord- 
ing to  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  required. 

To  Color  Almonds:  Whether  the  almonds  are  whole,  shredded  or  chopped,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  rub  them  together  with  the  coloring  matter  until  they  are  saturated; 
they  should  then  be  dried  in  a  screen. 

To  Pound  Almonds:  It  is  better  after  blanching  to  let  them  soak  for  an  hour  or 
so  in  cold  water,  which  will  prevent  them  in  a  measure  from  "  oiling."  A  few  drops 

745 


74.6  PASTRY. 

of  water,  orange-flower  water,  or  lemon-juice,  should  be  added  now  and  then  for  the 
same  purpose,  as  the  pounding  proceeds.  When  reduced  to  a  softish  pulp,  they  are 
ready  for  use. 

Almond  Croquettes. 

Take  an  equal  quantity  each  of  flour,  almonds  and  sugar,  the  zest  of  two  or  three 
oranges  rasped  on  lumps  of  sugar,  two  or  three  whole  eggs,  and  an  extra  yolk  or  so. 
Scald  the  almonds  and  remove  their  skins,  afterwards  soaking  for  two  hours  in  cold 
salt  and  water.  Pound  them  thoroughly  in  a  mortar,  with  a  few  drops  of  orange- 
water  added  to  prevent  oiling,  until  reduced  to  a  pulp;  then  mix  in  the  remainder  of 
the  ingredients  by  pounding  all  together.  Knead  the  paste  with  a  little  flour  on  a 
slab,  roll  it  with  a  bit  of  flat-board  into  the  shape  of  a  straight  rolling-pin,  lay  this  on 
a  greased  baking-board,  and  cover  it  over,  baking  in  a  moderate  heat  until  done,  then 
while  hot,  cut  it  up  into  slices,  and  dry  on  a  baking-sheet  in  a  very  slow  oven.  After 
they  are  dried,  moisten  their  edges  with  royal  icing,  dip  them  in  finely-chopped 
pistachio  kernels,  and  dry  them  for  a  few  minutes. 

Baba. 

Sift  four  pounds  of  dried  flour  onto  a  marble  or  slate  slab,  put  a  quarter  of  it  into 
a  basin,  and  pour  in  the  center  one  ounce  of  German  yeast  dissolved  in  a  teacupful  of 
warm  water.  Mix  well  with  the  fingers,  adding  a  little  more  water  if  required  to  make 
a  stiff  paste.  Roll  into  the  shape  of  a  ball,  and  again  place  in  the  basin,  score  it  on 
top  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  set  in  a  warm  place,  and  let  the  dough  rise  for  about  ten 
minutes,  or  until  it  is  quite  light.  Make  a  cavity  in  the  center  of  the  three  pounds  of 
flour,  adding  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  butter,  slightly  warmed,  half  an  ounce  of  salt 
and  half  a  teacupful  of  water,  together  with  fifteen  eggs.  Work  the  eggs  and  butter 
well  together,  then  mix  the  whole  into  a  paste,  keeping  it  rather  soft.  In  a  few  min- 
utes, add  six  more  eggs  singly,  and  work  lightly  with  the  hand  for  ten  minutes, 
sprinkling  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  saffron  over  the  dough,  and  mixing  it  in.  Put 
four  ounces  of  Smyrna  and  eight  ounces  of  Malaga  raisins,  together  with  four  ounces 
of  cleaned  currants,  and  a  small  quantity  of  mixed  candied  peels  cut  into  thin  slices 
into  a  basin,  pour  over  a  breakfast  cupful  of  Madeira  wine  and  three  wineglassfuls  of 
brandy  or  rum,  whichever  may  be  preferred,  and  let  these  ingredients  soak  for  a  few 
minutes.  Then  mix  them  all  in  with  the  paste,  using  the  hand  lightly,  and  allow  it 
to  stand  for  a  few  minutes.  Put  a  strip  of  paper  about  three  inches  above  the  rim  of 
a  well-buttered  mould,  pour  in  the  mixture  to  about  three-quarters  the  height  of  the 
mould,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place,  and  when  the  paste  has  risen  to  the  top  of  the 
mould,  place  in  a  slack  oven  and  bake  until  done,  say  about  three  hours.  Turn  out 
carefully  onto  a  sieve,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to 
have  the  paste  too  thin,  or  the  fruit  will  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the  cake,  and  the  effect 
will  be  lost.  As  the  fruit  in  some  cakes  has  a  tendency  to  stick  to  the  mould  when 


PASTRY.  747 

cooked,  the   latter   may  be  masked  with   a  coating  of  plain  paste  before  placing  the 
mixture  in  it. 

Baba  with   Madeira. 

Prepare  a  baba  cake  as  described  in  the  foregoing,  but  do  not  glaze  it.  Slit  the 
cake  into  halves  and  remove  the  top  piece.  Pour  a  little  cold  water  into  a  clean  pan, 
adding  a  little  sugar  and  lemon,  and  place  it  on  the  stove,  boiling  well  for  three  min- 
utes; then  remove  and  at  once  add  a  gill  or  so  of  good  sherry  wine  and  half  that 
quantity  of  cura£oa.  Lay  the  top  part  of  the  cake  in  a  flat-bottomed  vessel — a  wire 
basket  is  recommended,  to  avoid  breaking  it,  as  it  can  be  carefully  lowered  into  the 
pan.  Pour  the  prepared  sauce  gradually  over  it,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  couple  of  min- 
utes, then  replace  carefully  on  top  of  the  other  half  of  the  cake.  Arrange  tastefully 
on  a  dessert-dish,  garnish  with  candied  cherries,  the  border  being  decorated  with 
candied  pineapple. 

Baba  with  Vanilla  Cream  Sauce. 

Prepare  a  baba  cake  as  previously  described,  and  when  removed  from  the  mould 
and  laid  on  a  dish,  cut  it  into  six  equal  parts.  Take  a  small  quantity  of  apricot  mar- 
malade, taking  one  piece  of  the  cake  in  the  hand  and  cover  the  sides  where  cut  with 
the  marmalade,  spreading  it  smoothly  with  a  knife.  Then  arrange  the  six  pieces  to- 
gether on  a  dish,  giving  them  the  same  form  as  before.  Serve  with  vanilla  cream 
sauce. 

Almond   Biscuits. 

Blanch  and  pound  an  equal  quantity  of  bitter  and  sweet  almonds,  adding  a  few 
drops  of  orange-water  to  prevent  them  from  oiling.  Beat  the  yolks  of  some  eggs  in 
a  little  powdered  sugar,  add  the  almond  pulp  and  sufficient  flour  to  form  a  stiff  paste, 
and  roll  out  to  one-quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  into  shapes  with  a  pastry- 
cutter  or  the  rim  of  a  wineglass,  and  bake  on  a  greased  baking-sheet  until  a  light 
brown. 

Almond   Sponge  Biscuits. 

Crack  a  dozen  eggs  separately  into  a  teacup,  pour  them  all  into  a  large  kitchen- 
basin,  and  beat  with  a  whisk  until  thoroughly  mixed;  then  add  by  degrees  a  pound 
and  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  beat  until  it  is  quite  dissolved.  Then  add  a  pound  and 
three  ounces  of  fine  pastry-flour,  and  work  into  a  light  dough.  Have  ready  sufficient 
small  moulds,  warm  them  and  butter  the  inner  surfaces  neatly.  Fill  level  to  the  rims 
with  the  dough,  dust  over  the  top  with  powdered  sugar,  lay  them  over  some  blanched 
chopped  almonds,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Champagne  Biscuits. 

Mix  the  desired  quantity  of  flour  with  some  caraway  seeds,  beat  up  a  dozen  eggs 
to  each  two  pounds  of  flour  used  and  add  gradually  powdered  sugar  while  beating 


748  PASTRY. 

until  a  thick  paste  is  formed;  warm  some  butter  and  beat  it  to  a  cream,  so  that  when 
the  sugar  and  eggs  are  well  thickened  this  butter  may  be  worked  into  them,  and  add 
gradually  some  finely-sifted  flour  and  some  more  of  the  caraway  seeds.  Lay  the 
biscuits  on  a  greased  paper  which  has  been  crinkled  and  set  them  with  the  papers 
into  small  tin  moulds,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Chocolate  Biscuit. 

Put  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  in  a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of  caster-sugar,  mix 
in  six  ounces  of  flour  and  beat  until  the  batter  is  quite  smooth.  Beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  a  light  froth  and  stir  with  the  foregoing  and  season  the  mixture  with  a 
few  drops  of  vanilla.  Put  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  chocolate  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire 
and  when  dissolved  put  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  stir  until  thick.  Dip  the 
cold  biscuit  in  the  chocolate  and  lay  on  a  dish. 

Cream    Biscuits.  • 

Put  one-half  pound  of  flour  in  a  basin,  form  a  hollow  in  the  center  and  work  in 
the  whites  of  three  eggs,  one-half  teacupful  of  cream,  one  ounce  of  sugar,  one  wine- 
glassful  of  brandy  and  a  small  quantity  of  salt.  When  it  is  quite  smooth  roll  out  the 
paste  very  thin,  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  cutter  two  inches  in  diameter,  prick  them 
all  over  with  a  fork,  put  them  on  a  floured  baking-sheet  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until 
done.  Turn  them  out,  let  them  get  cold,  and  use  as  desired. 

Orange   Biscuits. 

Put  eight  ounces  of  butter  into  a  basin,  warm  and  work  it  to  a  cream,  adding  the 
same  quantity  of  orange  sugar.  Chop  into  thin  slices  three  ounces  of  candied  orange 
peel,  mix  it  in,  and  add  gradually  four  ounces  of  dried  flour  and  the  well-beaten 
yolks  of  eight  eggs.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  in,  pour 
the  mixture  into  well-buttered  moulds,  sprinkle  over  a  little  powdered  sugar  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Turn  them  out  when  done,  let  them  get  cold, 
and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Pistachio  Biscuit. 

Have  ready  two  basins  and  put  the  whites  of  a  dozen  eggs  in  one  and  the  yolks 
in  the  other;  mix  with  the  yolks  a  pound  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of  blanched  pista- 
chios powdered  to  a  pulp,  adding  a  little  white  of  egg  to  prevent  them  from  oiling. 
The  whites  should  then  be  whisked  to  a  froth  and  turned  into  the  basin  with  the 
yolks  and  pistachios,  sifting  in  about  six  ounces  of  dried  flour  and  the  rasped  rinds  of 
a  couple  of  lemons.  Stir  gently,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  moulds  or  paper  cases, 
sprinkle  well  with  caster-sugar,  place  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake.  When  done,  allow 
them  to  get  cold  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 


PASTRY.  749 

Raspberry  Biscuits. 

Put  one  pound  of  sifted,  crushed  loaf  sugar  into  a  basin  with  an  equal  weight 
of  blanched  and  pounded  sweet  almonds,  add  a  small  quantity  of  grated  lemon-rind, 
and  sufficient  yolk  of  egg  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  half  of  this  out  very  thin, 
cover  it  with  a  layer  of  raspberry  jam,  place  the  balance  of  the  paste  on  the  top,  and 
allow  it  to  stand  for  a  day.  Cover  the  top  with  royal  icing,  cut  up  into  strips  about 
three  inches  long  by  one  inch  in  width,  place  them  on  a  baking-sheet  on  a  moderate 
oven,  and  bake  until  done.  Take  them  out  and  serve  them  when  cold. 

Vanilla  Biscuits. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  with  one-half  pound  of  finely-powdered 
sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  grated  lemon-peel.  Beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth  and  stir  them  lightly  in  with  the  beaten  yolks ;  dredge  in  one-half  pound 
of  flour,  and  flavor  with  a  little  essence  of  vanilla,  and  then  work  it  until  quite 
smooth.  Lay  the  mixture  out  in  rounds  on  foolscap  paper,  using  a  biscuit-forcer 
for  the  purpose;  dust  them  over  with  vanilla  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
When  cooked,  take  the  biscuits  and  join  them  together  in  pairs. 


Walnut-and-Jam   Biscuits. 


Pound  fifty  walnuts  in  their  skins,  and  pass  them  through  a  fine  wire-sieve. 
Slightly  warm  one-fourth  pound  of  butter,  and  beat  it  until  creamy,  together  with  one- 
half  pound  of  sugar,  then  beat  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  one  whole  one,  and  one 
wineglassful  of  rum.  Put  one-fourth  pound  of  flour  into  a  basin,  and  add  the  beaten 
mixture,  stirring  it  until  quite  smooth.  If  too  thin,  more  flour  may  be  added  to  the 
paste,  but  it  should  not  be  too  stiff.  Butter  a  shallow  baking-tin,  spread  the  paste 
over  it,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  done,  spread  a  layer  of  any  kind  of  jam 
over  it;  then  put  it  in  the  oven  again  for  six  or  seven  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  ground 
cinnamon  to  a  firm  froth,  then  mix  with  them  the  powdered  walnuts.  Spread  the 
walnut  mixture  over  the  top  of  the  cake,  and  leave  it  in  the  oven  until  lightly 
browned.  When  cooked,  leave  the  cake  until  cold;  then  cut  it  into  squares  or 
diamond-shaped  pieces,  and  pack  them  away  in  biscuit  tins,  placing  a  sheet  of  white 
paper  between  each  layer.  They  will  keep  for  some  time. 

Wine    Finger   Biscuits. 

Warm  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  beat  it  to  a  cream,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
caster-sugar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  orange-sugar;  add  one  wineglassful  of  Madeira 
wine  and  a  little  salt,  then  stir  eight  ounces  of  flour  in  the  mixture,  and  work  till 
smooth.  Dust  some  flour  over  the  table,  and  roll  the  paste  out  very  thin;  cut  it  into 


750  PASTRY. 

long  thin  fingers,  which  prick  all  over  with  a  fork.  Dust  some  flour  over  a  baking- 
sheet,  arrange  the  biscuits  on  it,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  brisk  oven.  Serve  on  a 
glass  dish.  The  biscuits  should  be  kept  perfectly  dry  in  baking-tins. 

Brandy   Snaps. 

Rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  each  pound  of  flour  used,  a  half  pound 
of  moist  sugar,  a  couple  of  ounces  of  ginger,  a  dessertspoonful  of  allspice,  the  grated 
peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and  the  juice  of  a  whole  lemon,  also  beat  in  half  a  pound  of 
molasses.  Spread  this  paste  thinly  over  some  buttered  baking-sheets,  and  bake 
lightly  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cooked,  cut  into  squares,  and  serve. 

Almond   Cakes. 

Take  some  Valencia  almonds,  and  put  them  in  a  large  basin  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  a  little  essence  of  lemon  and  mixed  spice.  Mix  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
together  with  the  yolks  of  fifteen  eggs  to  every  pound  of  the  almonds  used,  then  stir 
in  the  whites  of  the  eggs  whipped  till  quite  stiff,  and  lastly,  work  in  thoroughly  a 
little  sifted  pastry  flour.  Have  ready  a  sufficient  number  of  buttered  fancy  moulds, 
and  bake  until  a  light  brown  in  a  moderately  quick  oven. 

American   White   Cake. 

Work  a  couple  of  ounces  of  butter  into  a  cream,  beat  up  the  whites  of  half  a 
dozen  eggs  in  half  a  pint  of  milk,  adding  a  pound  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  mixing  the  butter  with  the  flour, 
and  rubbing  it  in  thoroughly,  then  make  into  a  dough  with  the 'milk  and  eggs.  Butter 
a  square  cake-tin,  and  pour  in  the  mixture,  baking  in  a  quick  oven  for  an  hour.  Then 
brush  over  the  top  with  the  white  of  eggs,  and  sift  caster-sugar  over  it,  replacing  in 
the  oven  for  two  or  three  minutes. 


Apricot   Cakes. 


Roll  out  a  piece  of  puff-paste  or  trimmings,  and  spread  over  a  baking-sheet,  first 
winding  it  on  a  rolling-pin  and  then  unwinding.  Spread  some  apricot  marmalade 
evenly  all  over  the  paste.  Then  cut  some  of  the  rolled  paste  into  thin  narrow  strips 
and  roll  it  like  a  cord.  Arrange  these  strips  over  the  marmalade,  finishing  off  the 
ends  and  soldering  to  the  edge  of  the  paste  by  moistening  with  water.  Lay  icing- 
sugar  along  the  bars  in  some  fancy  designs  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
When  done,  cut  into  oblong  pieces,  say  two  by  three  inches  and  pile  one  upon  another 
on  a  dish  decorated  with  almonds  cut  into  various  shapes  and  colored. 


PASTRY.  751 

Bride   Cakes. 

Beat  some  warmed  butter  to  a  cream,  with  sugar;  then  beat  a  dozen  or  so  eggs, 
two  at  a  time,  and  when  all  are  in  the  batter,  whisk  for  nearly  an  hour  and  stir  in 
gradually  a  pound  of  sifted-flour,  add  a  pound  and  a  half  each  of  raisins  and  currants, 
both  chopped,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pounded  almonds,  half  a  pound  of  candied  peel 
minced  very  fine,  and  the  grated  rinds  of  an  orange  and  a  lemon,  together  with  a  gill 
of  brandy.  Pour  this  mixture  into  a  tin  lined  with  buttered-paper  and  bake  until 
quite  done.  Turn  upside  down  until  quite  cool,  then  apply  icing  and  ornamentation. 

Carnival   Cakes. 

Beat  into  a  gill  of  milk  a  couple  of  eggs,  adding  gradually  half  a  pound  of  flour. 
Let  it  stand  for  three  hours,  and  then  work  into  it  enough  flour  to  make  a  good 
dough;  roll  out  thin  and  cut  into  rounds  nine  inches  in  diameter,  then  cut  four  paral- 
lel lines  to  within  one  inch  of  the  sides  so  as  to  form  handles  by  which  the  cake  may 
be  lifted.  Place  in  hot  fat  and  fry  to  a  light  yellow;  pile  on  a  dish  and  sprinkle  sugar 
over  them.  The  cakes  should  be  eaten  cold. 


Chantilly   Cake. 


Stand  one  basin  in  another  the  larger  one  containing  hot  water,  and  break  in  five 
eggs,  put  in  a  teacupful  of  caster-sugar,  and  whisk  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  re- 
move the  basin  from  the  hot  water,  and  whisk  for  a  few  moments  longer ;  sift  in  half 
a  dozen  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  stirring  till  quite  smooth.  Butter  the  inside  of  a 
cylinder-mould,  sprinkle  caster-sugar  over  it  and  pour  in  the  cake  mixture,  and  if  it 
fills  the  mould,  tie  on  a  strip  of  buttered  paper  around  it  so  as  to  come  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  above  the  top  of  the  mould,  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Whip  up  half 
a  pint  of  rich  cream  with  a  little  caster-sugar  till  it  is  quite  firm,  when  it  may  be  fla- 
vored to  taste.  Turn  out  the  cake  when  cooked,  fill  the  hollow  with  cream,  and  serve. 

Chestnut   Cakes. 

Put  about  twenty  or  thirty  chestnuts  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  and  cook 
until  the  skins  can  be  easily  removed.  Skin  them  and  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with 
two  or  three  ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  well-whipped  cream,  and  pound  well;  then 
rub  the  mass  through  a  fine  sieve,  using  care  to  see  that  the  mixture  is  not  too  wet. 
When  all  has  been  passed  through,  put  it  into  a  basin  and  mix  in  half  its  weight  in 
sifted  crushed  loaf-sugar,  slightly  flavored  with  vanilla.  Form  the  mixture  into  small 
cakes,  placing  them  on  a  well-buttered  baking-sheet,  make  a  slight  incision  on  the  top 
of  each,  brush  them  over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  bake  to  a  good  color  in  a  hot 
oven.  When  done,  remove  them  from  the  baking-sheet,  and  serve. 


752 


PASTRY. 


Chous   Crisped   (Pralined)   with  Almonds. 

Pour  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  milk  and  water  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  bring  them  to  the  boil ;  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and 
work  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour  to  form  a  soft  paste.  Place  the  saucepan  back 
on  the  fire,  and  mix  until  all  the  lumps  are  broken  up  and  the  paste  is  perfectly 
smooth,  and  let  it  dry  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes;  then  mix  in  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  two  or  three  eggs,  and  stir  these  well  in,  adding  three  ounces  of  crushed 
loaf  sugar,  a  little  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped  cream,  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  orange-flower  water.  Work  the  paste  into  small  cakes,  decorate  them  with 
blanched  and  chopped  almonds,  brush  over  with  egg,  dust  with  powdered  sugar, 
place  them  in  a  slow  oven,  and  bake  to  a  light  color.  Then  serve  at  once.  When 
mixing  the  paste,  care  must  be  had  not  to  mix  it  too  thick. 

Chous    Filled   with   Cream. 

Pour  one-half  pint  of  water  into  a  saucepan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  one 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  piece  of  lemon  peel  and  one  pinch  of  salt;  boil  these  together 
and  then  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  stir  till  thick  and  cooked.  Allow 
the  paste  to  get  cold  and  then  work  into  it  a  sufficient  number  of  eggs  to  make  it 
thin  enough  to  drop  from  a  spoon.  Place  a  lump  of  lard  in  a  deep  fryingpan  and 
make  it  hot,  but  not  quite  to  the  point  of  boiling.  Then  with  a  spoon  drop  the  paste 
into  it  in  lumps  about  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg.  When  it  is  lightly  browned  and  well 
swollen,  remove  the  cakes,  drain  them,  scoop  out  a  little  of  the  top  of  each  to  form  a 
hollow  and  allow  them  to  get  cold.  Whip  some  cream  to  a  stiff  .froth,  put  a  small 
quantity  into  the  hollow  of  each  piece,  arrange  them  in  a  fancy  dish,  and  serve. 

Christmas   Cake. 

Rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  or  butter  and  lard  mixed,  into  a  pound  of 
finely-sifted  flour,  into  which  have  been  mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  a 
pinch  of  salt;  when  the  fat  has  all  been  thoroughly  worked  in  add  half  a  pound  each 
of  well-washed  dried  currants  and  mixed  candied  peel  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
moist  sugar,  together  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  spice.  Form  into  dough  with 
water  and  place  in  a  greased  cake-tin,  baking  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Cinnamon    Cakes. 

Work  well  together  two  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of  sugar  and  one  pound  of 
butter;  beat  the  yolks  of  three  and  the  whites  of  six  eggs  with  a  little  rosewater  and 
make  all  into  a  dough,  reserving  only  a  small  quantity  of  the  eggs.  Form  the  dough 
into  cakes,  brush  them  over  with  the  egg,  sprinkle  over  a  little  cinnamon,  sugar  and 


PASTRY.  753 

chopped  blanched  almonds.     Butter  some  baking-sheets,  lay  the  cakes  on,  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven. 

Citron   Cake. 

Mix  with  one  pound  of  warm  butter  one  pound  and  two  or  three  ounces  of  sugar; 
when  well  worked  together  add  one  pound  and  four  ounces  of  flour,  six  eggs  and  the 
yolks  of  four  more.  Cut  into  long  shavings  four  ounces  of  candied  citron,  form  these 
into  layers  with  the  cake  mixture  in  a  papered  tin,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Cocoanut  Cake,   Large. 

Beat  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  warm  butter  with  one  cupful  of  caster-sugar,  and 
when  creamy  beat  in  three  teacupfuls  of  flour  with  which  has  been  mixed  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda;  add  essence 
of  lemon  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  firmly  beaten  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Spread  on 
greased  pans  and  cover  the  tops  with  icing  in  which  the  grated  cocoanut  has  been 
stirred.  Ice  the  top  with  plain  icing  and  sift  a  little  cocoanut  over  it.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Cocoanut  and   Orange   Cream   for   Cakes. 

Beat  two  eggs,  add  two  cupfuls  of  whipped  cream,  two  cupfuls  of  grated  cocoa- 
nut,  two  ounces  of  caster-sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  one  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges; 
beat  all  together.  A  little  grated  cocoanut  should  be  spread  over  as  well. 

Coffee   Cake. 

Make  a  paste  with  the  following  ingredients:  seven  ounces  of  dried  and  sifted 
flour,  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  seven  ounces  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
potato  flour,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  the  whites  of  six  eggs  well  whisked,  one  whole 
egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy  and  a  little  salt.  Put  in  a  buttered  cylinder-mould 
and  bake.  While  it  is  cooling  beat  up  the  whites  of  four  or  five  eggs  and  sift  n  them 
half  a  pound  of  caster-sugar,  whip  this  over  the  fire  until  thick,  then  remove  and 
continue  whipping  until  it  is  cold;  add  half  a  wineglassful  of  extract  of  coffee  to  give 
it  a  dark  color.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  basin,  work  with  a  spoon,  and  pour 
the  coffee  mixture  in  it  as  soon  as  it  becomes  creamy.  When  the  cake  is  cold  divide 
in  thin  slices,  mask  each  layer  with  the  coffee  mixture,  build  the  cake  to  its  original 
form,  mask  it  all  over  with  more  of  the  coffee  mixture,  smooth  over  and  decorate. 
Put  it  on  a  dish  on  a  folded  napkin  and  fill  the  hollow  with  the  remainder  of  the 
preparation. 

Conde   Cakes. 

Roll  out  to  eight  turns  about  half  a  pound  of  puff-paste.  Cut  into  strips  four 
inches  wide  and  mask  the  top  with  almond  paste;  cut  the  strips  again  into  oblongs 


754 


PASTRY. 


one  and  a  half  inches  wide  and  sprinkle  over  the  top  with  a  little  sugar,  flavored  with 
vanilla.  Lay  them  on  baking-sheets  a  short  distance  apart  and  bake  in  a  slack  oven. 
When  they  are  cooked,  trim  around  the  edges,  and  serve. 

New  Year's    Cookies. 

Warm  slightly  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  beat  it  until  creamy  with 
one  pound  of  caster-sugar;  beat  three  eggs  well  and  mix  them  with  the  butter;  then 
stir  in  slowly  one  pint  of  the  best  sifted-flour  and  one  tablespoonful  of  caraway  seeds. 
Stir  one  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  in  one  teacupful  of  milk  until  well  dissolved,  then 
strain  it,  stir  in  one-half  teacupful  of  cider  with  it  and  mix  gradually  in  with  the 
other  ingredients.  Work  the  mixture  well,  adding  more  flour  if  required  to  bring  it 
to  the  desired  stiffness.  Sprinkle  some  flour  over  the  table,  place  the  paste  on,  roll 
it  out  and  cut  into  round  cakes.  Butter  a  baking-sheet,  lay  on  the  cakes  and  bake 
them  in  a  quick  oven.  When  a  trifle  browned,  arrange  the  cakes  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
hot. 

Cornstarch    Cakes. 

Mix  in  a  basin  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cornstarch,  one-half  breakfast  cupful  of 
wheat-flour,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt.  Dissolve  one 
teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  in  one-half  teacupful  of  boiling  water  and  pour 
it  into  three  teacupfuls  of  sour  milk;  mix  it  with  the  dry  ingredients  and  add  two 
eggs  well  beaten.  After  buttering  some  small  cake-tins,  pour  the  preparation  into 
the  depth  of  about  one  and  one-half  inches  and  then  bake  for  twenty-five  minutes  in 
a  quick  oven. 


Country   Cakes. 


Place  in  a  basin  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  partly-melted 
butter  and  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs,  beat  well  until  a  thick  cream  is  obtained; 
then  take  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  beat  up  with  one  pound  of  finely-sifted  lump- 
sugar,  and  when  it  becomes  frothy,  mix  all  together.  Place  the  paste  in  tins  and 
bake  in  a  brisk  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

Cream  Cakes. 

Grease  thoroughly  with  butter  eight  jelly-cake  tins,  and  have  a  hot  oven  ready 
so  that  the  cakes  may  be  put  into  it  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  mixed.  Stir 
two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  flour  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  sugar  and  rub  them  well 
together;  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  two  dessertspoon- 
fuls of  cream  of  tartar  on  a  plate,  and  with  the  back  of  a  spoon  rub  out  the  lumps, 
and  mix  them  with  the  sugar  and  flour.  Make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  flour,  and 
drop  in  and  mix,  one  at  a  time,  the  yolks  of  eight  or  nine  eggs;  whip  the  white  of  the 


PASTRY. 


755 


eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  this  into  the  batter.  Place  an  equal  portion  of  the 
batter  in  each  of  the  eight  cake-tins,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  seven  minutes.  While 
the  cakes  are  in  the  oven  put  one  pint  of  milk  and  one  teacupful  of  salt  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  let  boil;  beat  two  eggs  very  lightly  and  stir  them  into  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  When  the  milk  boils,  take  it  from 
the  fire,  allow  it  to  cool  for  a  minute  or  so,  then  pour  it  over  the  mixture  of  eggs, 
flour  and  sugar,  stir  well  together  and  pour  back  into  the  saucepan;  keep  on  stirring 
and  let  it  boil  for  one  minute.  Remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  and  drop  into  it 
twelve  drops  of  essence  of  almonds.  Take  the  cakes  from  the  tins,  place  them  on 
a  dish,  one  on  top  of  the  other,  with  a  layer  of  cream  from  the  saucepan  between 
them,  sprinkle  a  little  white  powdered  sugar  over  the  top. 

Cream   Puffs. 

Warm  slightly  one  pound  of  butter,  and  beat  it  well  with  one-half  pound  of 
caster-sugar,  then  mix  in  two  eggs.  Put  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  of  sifted  flour 
into  a  basin,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  stir  in  the  beaten  mixture  and 
work  until  it  is  quite  smooth.  Shape  the  dough  into  cakes  and  bake  in  a  sharp  oven. 
Beat  two  eggs  with  four  ounces  of  caster-sugar  and  one  pint  of  milk,  then  stir  them 
in  with  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour.  When  smooth  turn  the  mixture  into  a 
stewpan,  and  stir  over  a  moderate  fire  until  thick.  When  cooked  cut  the  cakes  in 
halves,  scoop  out  a  little  soft  paste,  and  fill  them  with  cream.  Arrange  them  neatly 
on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  spread  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Boston  Cream  Puffs. 

Put  one-half  pint  of  water  into  a  saucepan  with  one-fourth  pound  of  lard,  and  a 
little  salt,  and  then  boil.  Add  one-fourth  pound  of  flour,  or  more,  if  required,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes  longer,  or  until  it  becomes  a  smooth  paste.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  and  mix  in  five  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  Drop  small  quantities  of 
the  mixture  with  a  spoon  onto  slightly-buttered  baking  tins,  allowing  an  inch  or  so 
of  distance  between  each.  Put  the  sheet  into  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes.  Open  the  puffs  by  making  an  incision  in  the  sides,  and  fill  them  with  cream. 

Delicate   Cake. 

Mix  one  pound  of  caster-sugar  with  an  equal  amount  of  warm  fresh  butter,  and 
add  by  degrees  fourteen  whites  of  eggs;  mix  a  half  pound  of  cornmeal  and  a  like 
quantity  of  white  flour  together,  and  beat  in  with  the  rest,  then  put  in  a  teacupful  of 
milk,  a  teacupful  of  brandy,  a  little  lemon  juice,  and  flavor  to  taste,  beating  thor- 
oughly. Put  in  a  greased  mould,  and  bake  until  done  in  a  moderate  oven. 


756  PASTRY. 

Dessert   Cakes. 

Mix  well  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  beaten  to  a  cream  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  caster-sugar,  a  similar  amount  of  ground  rice,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder.  Beat  up  thoroughly  three  eggs,  and  then  stir  them  into  this  mixture. 
Butter  some  small  cake-tins,  and  pour  in  this  preparation,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  ten  to  twelve  minutes. 

Eclairs   (Coffee   or   Chocolate). 

Put  into  a  saucepan  two  gills  of  milk  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  set  on  the  fire 
and  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon;  when  boiling,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  well-sifted 
flour,  and  stir  briskly  for  a  couple  of  minutes.  Stand  the  pan  on  a  table,  break  in  one 
egg,  mix  sharply  for  two  minutes,  break  in  a  second  egg,  mix  sharply  again,  and 
repeat  with  a  third  and  a  fourth  egg.  Place  a  small  tube  in  a  pastry-bag,  and  press 
out  on  a  baking-sheet  fifteen  eclairs  three  inches  in  length,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
for  twenty  minutes,  then  remove  them  and  let  cool.  Open  each  eclair  on  one  side 
with  a  pair  of  scissors,  and,  with  a  spoon,  fill  the  interior  with  cream.  Dip  the  eclairs, 
one  by  one,  with  the  hand  into  icing.  Lay  them  on  a  strainer  and  let  cool.  Dress 
on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Cream   for   Eclairs. 

Rub,  until  smooth,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  a  little  milk,  and  add,  whilst 
stirring,  one  pint  of  boiling  milk.  Whisk  three  eggs,  and  add  to  them  six  ounces  of 
sugar  and  the  above,  pour  all  into  a  saucepan  and  cook  for  five  minutes,  add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  When  cool,  flavor  with  almond,  lemon 
or  vanilla. 


Icing  for   Eclairs. 


Put  a  pound  and  three-quarters  of  granulated  sugar  in  a  saucepan  with  one  gill 
of  cold  water;  set  on  the  stove  and  mix  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  sugar  is 
thoroughly  melted;  when  boiling  remove  from  the  stove  and  pour  it  gradually  onto  a 
marble  slab;  spread  it  about  three  feet  square  and  let  it  cool  for  ten  minutes.  Put 
one  ounce  of  coffee  into  a  saucepan  with  a  breakfast  cupful  of  cold  water  and  boil 
until  reduced  to  about  two  tablespoonfuls,  strain  through  a  cloth  and  let  it  cool; 
begin  working  the  sugar  that  is  on  the  slab  with  a  spatula  as  rapidly  as  possible  in 
every  direction  until  it  begins  to  whiten;  add  the  coffee  essence,  mixing  thoroughly 
until  it  becomes  quite  hard;  remove  the  spatula,  detach  the  preparation  from  the  slab 
quickly  with  a  knife,  put  into  a  vessel,  cover  with  a  damp  cloth  and  let  it  rest  for 
half  an  hour.  Place  half  of  the  mixture  in  a  saucepan  on  the  hot  fire  and  mix  thor- 
oughly and  slowly  with  the  spatula  until  it  is  lukewarm,  adding  in  the  meantime  one 


PASTRY.  757 

teaspoonful  of  cold  water.     The  remainder  of  the  preparation  is  laid  aside  in  a  cool 
place  and  if  properly  taken  care  of  will  keep  for  a  fortnight. 

Family   Cake. 

Warm  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  moist  sugar, 
a  pound  of  molasses,  a  couple  of  eggs,  a  breakfast  cupful  of  sour  milk;  mix  together 
also  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  with  four  large  cupfuls  of  flour  and  place  in 
the  pan,  beating  them  well.  Then  take  half  a  pound  of  well-stoned  raisins  and  a 
pound  of  well-washed  currants,  dried,  flour  them  and  stir  in  with  the  other  prepara- 
tion. Place  on  a  greased  pan,  baking  in  an  oven  until  done,  and  serve. 

Feuillantines. 

Prepare  some  puff  paste,  roll  it  out  to  about  a  third  of  an  inch  thick  and  cut  into 
one-inch  strips  and  two-inch  lengths.  Spread  a  baking-dish  thick  with  butter, 
arrange  the  pieces  of  paste  on  it,  placing  them  on  their  sides  and  leaving  a  small  space 
between  them;  put  them  in  the  oven,  and  when  they  are  firm  and  the  sides  have 
spread,  glaze  them  with  white  of  egg  and  dust  with  powdered  sugar.  As  the  feuillan- 
tines  are  cooked,  set  them  on  paper  to  drain  off  any  extra  grease  they  may  contain; 
they  may  also  be  masked  separately  with  a  small  quantity  of  different-colored  jam. 
Arrange  on  a  fancy-edged  dish-paper  or  a  folded  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Flame   Cake. 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  with  half  a  pound  of  caster-sugar  for  twenty 
minutes;  warm  six  ounces  of  butter,  beat  till  creamy,  and  mix  it  in  with  the  eggs, 
adding  half  a  pound  of  the  best  white  flour,  and  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  one 
lemon.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  ten  eggs  to  a  froth,  and  mix  them  into  this  prepara- 
tion. Butter  a  shallow  cake-tin,  pour  in  this  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
When  it  is  done,  remove  from  the  pan,  leaving  it  until  the  following  day.  Just  when 
serving,  put  it  on  a  dish,  soak  it  in  brandy,  set  fire  to  it,  and  serve  at  once. 

Fruit   Cake. 

Put  two  ounces  each  of  flour  and  ground  rice  into  a  basin  and  mix  with  two 
ounces  of  butter;  rub  it  with  the  fingers  until  well  mixed  with  the  flour,  then  put  in 
one  ounce  each  of  chopped  preserved  cherries,  ginger  and  candied  citron-peel,  four 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  blanched  and  powdered  sweet 
almonds.  Separate  the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  first,  mix  them 
with  the  above  ingredients,  then  beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth  and  stir  them  in 
lightly  at  the  last.  Line  a  buttered  cake-tin  with  sheets  of  buttered  paper,  pour  the 
mixture  in  and  bake  it  in  a  good  oven;  when  cooked,  remove  the  paper  from  the 
cake.  Serve  it  cold. 


758  PASTRY. 

Galettes. 

Sift  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  onto  a  board;  make  a  hollow  in  the  center;  put 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  slightly  warmed  butter,  a  little  salt  and  half  a  pint  of  cold 
water.  Work  the  butter  well  with  the  water,  gradually  mixing  in  the  flour  so  as  to 
give  it  the  consistency  of  puff  paste.  Let  it  remain  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  in  the 
meantime  work  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  cloth  until  it  is  quite  firm,  then  give  it  a 
flat  square  shape.  Make  the  paste  into  a  flat  square  shape  also,  put  the  square  of 
butter  on  it  and  cover  it  over  with  the  edges  of  the  paste  that  project;  give  it  five 
turns  like  puff  paste  and  at  the  last  turn  make  it  about  one  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  it 
into  a  round  shape  with  scalloped  edges,  put  it  upside  down  on  a  baking-dish,  brush 
it  over  with  egg  and  mark  it  in  lines  with  a  sharp  knife.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  forty  minutes,  and  just  before  taking  it  out,  sprinkle  over  with  sugar  glaze.  It  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

American    Gingerbread    (Southern). 

Put  one  pint  of  molasses  into  a  copper  basin,  warm  it,  and  melt  half  a  pound  of 
butter  in  it;  then  mix  in  half  a  pound  of  moist  sugar  and  three  well-beaten  eggs,  add 
ground  ginger  to  taste,  one  pint  of  milk  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 
mixed  up  with  one  pound  of  flour.  The  milk  and  flour  should  be  added  alternately 
and  a  little  at  a  time.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  it  into  oval  buttered  pans  and 
bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

French    Gingerbread. 

Mix  a  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger  and  half  a  tablespoonful  each  of  ground 
aniseed  and  ground  cloves  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour;  then  mix  in  one  pound 
of  molasses  and  work  it  until  quite  smooth.  Cover  the  paste  over  with  a  cloth  and 
leave  it  until  the  following  day;  then  roll  it  out  and  with  a  round  tin  cutter  about  two 
inches  in  diameter  stamp  the  paste  out  into  rounds.  Butter  a  baking-sheet,  lay  the 
gingerbreads  on  it,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste  brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  and 
bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  The  cakes  should  be  kept  in  biscuit  tins 
in  a  dry  place. 

Spiced   Gingerbread. 

Prepare  a  dough  with  one  pound  of  butter  melted  in  one  quart  of  warm  molasses, 
half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  six  eggs,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  ground  ginger,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground  allspice,  two  ounces  of  ground  cloves,  three  pounds  of 
sifted  flour  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  saleratus.  Form  into  cakes  and  put  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  and  bake.  If  preferred  it  may  be  baked  in  loaves.  It  should  be  eaten  cold. 


PASTRY.  759 

Wafer   Gingerbread. 

Pour  seven  fluid  ounces  of  treacle  into  a  basin  and  with  a  wooden  spoon  mix  in 
two  ounces  each  of  warmed  butter  and  moist  sugar,  half  that  quantity  of  ground 
ginger,  and  lastly  eight  ounces  of  sifted  flour;  stir  well  until  quite  smooth.  Turn  it 
onto  a  slightly  greased  baking-sheet,  rolling  it  out  very  thin,  put  in  a  slow  oven  and 
bake.  Take  out  and  cut  into  squares  while  still  hot,  roll  them  into  shapes,  and  let 
them  get  cold. 

Gingerbread  with   Cocoanut. 

Put  nine  ounces  each  of  wheat  and  rice  flour  into  a  basin  and  mix  in  eight  ounces 
of  moist  sugar,  one  ounce  of  ground  ginger,  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons  and  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  candied  citron  cut  up  small.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  pound  of  molasses,  make  them  both  hot,  pour  them  into  the  flour 
mixture  and  stir  well.  Let  it  all  cool,  add  seven  ounces  of  cocoanut  grated  and 
pounded  in  a  mortar.  Beat  well  for  a  few  minutes,  put  the  mixture  in  small  lumps 
on  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  place  them  in  a  slack  oven,  and  bake  for  about  forty-five 
minutes. 

Ginger  Cake. 

Put  into  a  basin  a  breakfast  cupful  each  of  sugar,  butter  and  molasses,  with  three 
eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger,  a  saltspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  one  tablespoonful  of  buttermilk  and  mix  in  two  and  a  half  breakfast  cupfuls 
of  flour.  Add  a  little  allspice  if  desired.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  mould,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


Ginger   Loaf. 


Rub  six  ounces  of  butter  or  dripping  into  one  pound  of  flour,  put  it  in  a  basin 
and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  ginger  and  half  the 
latter  quantity  of  mixed  spice,  or  a  little  powdered  cloves  and  nutmeg.  When  it  is 
well-mixed,  add  three  well-beaten  eggs  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  treacle 
Work  this  vigorously,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  bicarbondate  of  soda  dissolved  in  a 
wineglassful  of  warm  water,  and  turn  it  into  a  well-buttered,  shallow,  square  tin,  only 
half  filling  it  to  allow  for  rising;  two  ounces  of  candied  peel,  finely  minced,  or  half  an 
ounce  of  caraway  seeds  may  be  added  if  desired.  Put  the  tin  in  a  moderate  oven 
and  bake  slowly  until  done. 

Ginger   Snaps. 

Put  one  pint  of  molasses  into  a  saucepan  with  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  ginger  and  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  boil  until  all  are 
thoroughly  mixed.  Let  it  cool  and  then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  it  into  a  soft 
dough;  work  it  we'll,  cut  it  into  small  cakes  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  done. 


760  PASTRY. 

Hazel-nut  Cakes. 

Put  four  ounces  of  blanched  and  shelled  hazel-nuts  and  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds 
into  a  mortar  and  pound  them  coarsely;  whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
mix  them  with  the  almonds,  also  six  or  eight  ounces  of  sugar  and  sufficient  flour  to  make 
the  whole  into  a  paste.  Roll  the  paste  out  as  thin  as  possible,  and  with  a  round  tin  cutter 
cut  it  into  small  cakes.  Butter  some  baking-tins,  place  the  cakes  on  them  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  each  other,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  cooked,  leave  the  cakes  until 
cold,  then  pack  them  in  tin  canisters. 


Hickory-nut   Cake. 


Beat  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  and  one-half  pound  or  so  of  sugar  into  a  smooth 
cream,  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  saltspoonful  of  cinnamon  and  nut- 
meg mixed,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  dissolved  in  hot  water,  then 
add,  and  mix  in,  in  small  quantities,  and  alternately,  the  whites  of  three  eggs  whisked 
to  a  stiff  froth,  and  one-half  pound  of  flour,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 
mixed  with  it.  Have  prepared  and  dredged  with  flour  one-fourth  pound  of  stoned 
and  chopped  raisins  and  one-fourth  pint  of  hickory-nut  kernels,  mix  them  quickly 
into  the  dough,  and  bake  at  once. 

Home-made   Cake. 

Place  half  a  pound  each  of  sugar  and  butter  in  a  bowl,  mixing  thoroughly  with 
the  hand  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  then  break  four  eggs,  leaving  the  whites  in  a 
basin,  and  drop  the  yolks  in  with  the  butter  and  sugar,  mixing  again  well;  then  beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  to  the  other  mixture.  Grate  in  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  nutmeg,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  and  mix  again  thoroughly;  stir  in  a 
couple  of  ounces  of  well-cleansed  currants,  and  a  similar  quantity  of  blanched  sweet 
almonds  cut  up  into  small  pieces;  mix  well  for  five  minutes  with  the  hand,  then  pour 
in  a  gill  of  brandy,  a  little  at  a  time.  Have  ready  a  two-quart  cake-mould,  drop  a  third 
of  the  mixture  into  the  mould,  spread  over  it  a  couple  of  ounces  of  candied  orange- 
peel  shred  into  thin  slices,  and  then  add  half  of  the  remaining  part  of  the  mixture; 
spread  on  top  of  this  a  couple  of  ounces  of  shredded  candied  citron-peel,  and  fill  in 
the  rest  of  the  preparation;  lay  a  piece  of  brown  paper  over,  and  place  the  mould  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours  until  it  becomes  a  golden  color,  then  remove,  and  let 
it  cool  in  the  mould.  Turn  the  cake  out  on  a  dessert-dish,  and  decorate  the  top  with 
a  border  composed  of  candied  fruits,  tastefully  arranged. 


Honey    Cakes. 


Put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  until  melted, 
then   stir   in   two  pounds  and   a  half  of  sifted  flour,   and  keep  stirring  until  lightly 


PASTRY.  761 

brown.  Turn  the  flour  out  of  the  saucepan  onto  a  paste-board,  and  make  a  hollow  in 
the  center;  dissolve  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  bicarbonate  of  soda  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  then  pour  it  into  the  flour  and  mix  well,  stir  in  enough  water  to 
make  a  soft  flexible  paste.  Knead  the  paste  well,  then  divide  it  into  small  portions, 
shape  them  round,  make  a  dent  in  the  center  of  each  with  the  tip  of  the  ringer,  lay 
them  on  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  and  bake  them  until  colored.  Put  half  a  pound  of 
honey  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  water,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  reduced  to  a 
syrup.  When  the  cakes  are  cooked  pour  the  syrup  over,  and  put  them  again  in  the 
oven  until  it  is  well  soaked  in.  Arrange  the  cakes  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Jelly  'Cakes. 

Beat  eight  ounces  of  sugar  with  five  eggs,  add  one-fourth  pound  of  melted  but- 
ter, one  teacupful  of  milk  and  twelve  ounces  of  flour  to  which  has  been  added  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking  powder.  Spread  this  over  some  jelly-cake  pans  and  when 
cooked  put  three  of  these,  one  on  top  of  the  other  with  jelly  in  between,  and  serve. 


Jelly   Roll. 


Put  one  pound  of  sugar  and  twelve  ounces  of  butter  into  a  basin,  beat  them  to  a 
cream,  add  eight  or  nine  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  sift  in  one  pound  of  flour,  and  work 
the  whole  to  a  smooth  batter,  adding  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  a  lemon.  Put  a 
sheet  of  well-buttered  paper  into  a  baking-tin,  spread  the  batter  over  this  to  about 
one-fourth  inch  in  thickness,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  to  a  light  brown.  Remove  it, 
mask  the  surface  with  thick  jelly,  roll  it  up  and  tie  it  until  it  becomes  set  and  fast. 
Take  off  the  strings,  brush  the  roll  with  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a 
little  syrup,  roll  it  in  granulated  sugar,  and  serve. 


Jersey   Wonders. 


Work  together  with  a  tablespoon  before  the  fire  one-fourth  pound  of  powdered 
sugar  with  one-fourth  pound  of  the  best  butter  until  they  are  well  incorporated.  Beat 
up  thoroughly  four  eggs  and  add  these  to  the  sugar  and  butter.  Sift  in  by  degrees 
one  pound  of  white  flour  and  a  grating  of  nutmeg.  Knead  this  together  for  some 
time,  cover  it  with  a  cloth  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place;  then  cut  up  the  mass  into 
small  pieces  about  the  size  of  an  apple,  roll  them  round  in  the  hand  to  prevent  them 
sticking  and  then  roll  out  each  ball  on  a  floured  paste-board  to  an  oval  about  one- 
third  to  one-half  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  with  a  floured  knife  three  parallel  slits  in 
the  middle  of  each,  but  not  through  at  the  ends,  cross  the  two  slips  with  your  fingers 
and  draw  up  the  two  sides  between.  Put  your  fingers  through  and  drop  each  wonder 
into  a  dish  of  boiling  lard.  Thev  will  rise  as  they  are  done  and  can  then  be  turned 
so  as  to  brown  them  all  over  equally.  Remove  them  with  a  fork  and  lay  them  on  a 
drainer  or  folded  paper  to  drain.  A  slight  sprinkling  of  powdered  sugar  improves  them. 


762  PASTRY. 

Ladies'    Bouchees. 

Place  a  small  quantity  of  paste  in  a  pastry-bag.  Butter  well  and  flour  a  baking- 
sheet,  and  form  a  sufficient  number  of  small  round  biscuits  the  shape  of  macaroons, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  powdered  sugar  and  place  in  a  brisk  oven  and  bake  for  twelve 
minutes.  Then  take  out  to  cool  for  fifteen  minutes.  Lift  from  the  pan,  lay  them 
upside  down  on  a  table,  and  make  a  small  cavity  half  an  inch  in  diameter  in  each, 
filling  with  the  cream.  Fasten  them  together  two  by  two,  to  enclose  the  cream,  and 
they  should  then  be  ball-shaped.  Then  they  may  be  dipped  carefully  and  separately 
into  a  thick  sugar  icing  and  laid  on  a  pastry  grating  to  dry  for  fifteen  minutes.  Dress 
on  a  dessert-dish  with  a  folded  napkin  or  ornamental  dish-paper,  and  serve. 

Raspberry   Ladies'    Bouchees. 

Put  the  yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs  into  a  basin  and  beat  them  up  with  one-half 
pound  of  sifted  crushed  loaf  sugar,  working  them  well  for  about  five  minutes.  Add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  broth,  and  mix  in  four  ounces  of  flour.  Turn 
the  mixture  into  a  biscuit-forcer  or  paper  funnel,  squeeze  out  rounds  about  one  and 
one-half  inches  in  diameter,  letting  them  fall  on  sheets  of  paper,  sprinkle  them  over 
with  powdered  sugar,  and  bake  them.  When  done  take  them  out,  mask  half  of  them 
with  raspberry  jam,  cover  with  the  other  half,  glaze  them  with  raspberry  icing,  by 
dipping  them  into  it,  holding  one  at  a  time  on  a  skewer,  drain,  place  them  in  a  hot 
closet  for  two  or  three  minutes,  take  them  out,  and  when  cold  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Lady   Cake. 

Take  one  pound  of  caster-sugar,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  the 
whites  of  fourteen  eggs,  and  mix  well  together.  Flavor  with  two  drops  of  oil  of 
bitter  almonds  and  bake  on  a  buttered  tin. 

Lady   Fingers. 

Prepare  the  desired  quantity  of  flour  and  butter  in  the  following  proportions  : 
Half  a  pound  of  butter  to  every  three  pounds  of  flour,  and  rub  well  together,  adding 
half  a  pound  of  fine  sugar,  with  about  thirty  drops  of  essence  of  lemon;  mix  with 
milk  into  a  firm  dough,  and  place  in  a  cloth  for  half  an  hour  to  settle  before  using. 
Beat  with  a  rolling-pin  until  quite  smooth,  roll  out  thin  and  cut  into  strips,  and  cut 
.these  strips  into  five-inch  lengths. 

Leaf  Cake. 

Blanch  and  pound  one-half  pound  of  sweet  almOnds  with  half  a  dozen  bitter 
ones;  rub  the  yolks  of  eight  hard-boiled  eggs  until  quite  smooth.  Mix  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  butter  with  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  and  when  quite  smooth  stir 


PASTRY.  763 

in  the  above  ingredients  with  one-half  pound  of  caster-sugar,  three  well-beaten  eggs 
and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  milk  to  make  a  consistent  paste.  Work  the  mixture 
thoroughly,  then  lay  it  on  a  paste-board  on  which  some  flour  has  been  sifted,  dividing 
it  into  six  equal  portions,  and  rolling  them  out  very  thin.  Butter  a  baking-sheet,  lay 
the  cakes  on  it,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  and  bake 
to  a  light  yellow  in  a  slow  oven.  When  cooked  slip  one  of  the  cakes  off  the  baking- 
sheet,  cover  it  with  a  coating  of  any  kind  of  preserve,  place  another  cake  on  the  top 
of  that,  coat  that  also  with  preserve,  and  so  on  till  the  last  cake  is  on  the  top.  Mask 
the  top  of  the  last  cake  with  the  finest  white  sugar  icing,  trim  all  evenly  around  the 
edges  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  serve  when  the  icing  is  quite  dry. 

Lemon    Cake. 

Beat  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar- together  with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs; 
when  smooth  add  the  whites  previously  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  stir  in  slowly 
seven  or  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  the  grated  peel  of  a  large  lemon.  Line  a 
cake-tin  with  buttered  paper,  pour  the  mixture  in,  and  bake  for  one  hour  in  a  moder- 
ate oven. 

Lemon   Cheese   Cakes. 

Put  four  or  five  ounces  of  butter  into  a  basin  to  melt,  and  work  in  four  ounces  of 
crushed  and  sifted  loaf  sugar.  Then  add  the  yolks  of  two  and  the  whites  of  one  egg, 
the  finely-chopped  peel  of  three  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  one  large  crushed  Savoy 
biscuit,  a  few  pounded  blanched  almonds,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy.  Line 
some  patty-pans  with  puff  paste,  put  a  little  of  the  lemon  mixture  in  each,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 

Lemon    Puffs. 

Whisk  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  together  with  one-fourth  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  then  beat  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  sprinkle  in  a  very  little  salt  and 
the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon;  whip  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  beat 
them  in  the  above,  and  stir  in  finally  one-half  pound  of  flour.  Pour  the  batter  into 
muffin-rings,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  They  should  be  baked  immediately  after  the 
batter  is  mixed. 

Lemon    Roll    Cakes. 

Slightly  warm  two  ounces  of  butter  together  with  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar; 
dissolve  one  tablespoonful  of  dry  yeast  in  about  one-half  teacupful  of  warm  milk, 
then  mix  it  and  the  butter  in  one-half  pound  of  flour,  adding  as  much  more  warm 
milk  as  will  be  required  to  make  a  light  dough.  Beat  the  dough  thoroughly  and  mix 
with  it  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon,  a  few  pieces  of  finely-shredded  lemon-peel  and 
two  well-beaten  eggs.  Divide  this  dough  into  two  equal-sized  lots,  place  them  on  a 


764  PASTRY. 

floured  paste-board  and  mould  them  into  long,  thin  rolls.  Put  them  on  a  baking-sheet, 
set  them  in  a  warm  place  until  risen,  then  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  cooked  the 
rolls  should  be  of  a  pale  yellow  color.  Sprinkle  lightly  over  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  serve. 


Lunch    Cakes,   Large. 


Put  into  a  basin  two  pounds  of  flour  mixed  with  a  half  pound  of  moist  sugar; 
form  a  hollow  in  the  center,  put  in  one  tablespoonful  of  thick  yeast,  add  a  third  of  a 
breakfast  cupful  of  warm  milk  not  hot  enough  to  scald  the  yeast,  then  stir  in  a  little 
of  the  flour  and  let  it  rise  for  about  forty-five  minutes.  Add  another  two-thirds  of  a 
breakfast  cupful  of  milk  warmed  sufficiently  to  dissolve  half  a  pound  of  butter,  stir  in 
one  and  a  half  pound  of  well  washed  currants,  a  small  quantity  of  chopped  peel,  one 
teaspoonful  of  ground  allspice,  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon.  Pour  the  preparation 
into  a  well-buttered  tin,  set  it  to  rise  in  a  warm  place,  and  afterward  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Turn  it  out  when  done,  and  serve  cold. 

Macaroon    Cake. 

Warm  some  butter,  mix  it  with  some  sugar,  work  to  a  cream;  beat  in  some 
eggs,  add  some  milk,  baking-powder,  and  enough  flour  so  that  you  will  be  able 
to  roll  it.  Work  the  dough  thoroughly  and  put  on  a  buttered  baking-sheet.  Place 
in  a  moderate  oven,  bake  slightly,  as  it  will  have  to  be  baked  again  when  used 
for  macaroon  paste. 

Macaroons    Flavored    with   Chocolate. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  ground  sweet  almonds,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  slightly 
warmed  chocolate  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar;  mix  them  to  a  stiff 
paste  with  the  white  of  the  eggs.  Shape  the  paste  into  round  balls,  place  them  on  a 
sheet  of  paper  leaving  a  space  between  each,  sift  over  some  fine  sugar,  and  bake  in 
the  oven  until  they  are  of  a  golden  color.  When  they  are  done,  take  the  paper  out 
of  the  oven,  dampen  it  a  little  so  that  they  will  be  removed  easily,  and  place  the 
macaroons  on  a  sieve  until  they  are  wanted. 

Macaroons    Flavored   with   Coffee. 

Mix  one  pound  of  ground  almonds  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  in  a  basin 
with  a  little  extract  of  coffee,  adding  the  whites  of  some  eggs  to  form  it  into  a  paste. 
Place  it  on  a  wafer-paper  in  the  shape  of  fingers  and  bake  in  an  oven  until  they  are 
of  a  light  pale  brown.  Take  them  out  when  they  are  done,  remove  them  by  damp- 
ing, and  place  in  paper-boxes  until  wanted. 


PASTRY.  765 

Macaroons   Flavored. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  light  together  with  one  pound  of  powdered 
white  sugar  and  whisk  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Beat  into  the  beaten 
eggs  and  sugar  the  grated  peel  of  one  lemon  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  nut- 
met.  Mix  in  lastly  and  in  small  quantities  the  frothed  whites  and  six  ounces  of  flour. 
Roll  the  mixture  into  small  balls,  rub  over  with  butter,  lay  them  on  a  buttered-paper 
leaving  a  space  between  each,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Macaroon   Mirletons. 

Break  into  a  powder  enough  macaroons  to  make  three  ounces  in  weight,  place  it 
in  a  basin  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two,  stir  in  four  ounces  of 
powdered  loaf  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  pounded  candied  orange-flowers  and  a  small 
sprinkling  of  salt.  Mix  these  for  a  few  minutes;  then  add  two  ounces  of  warmed 
butter  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  whipped  to  a  froth.  Have  some  pans  ready  and 
line  them  with  puff-paste,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  dust  them  over  with  powdered 
sugar,  let  it  melt  in  the  oven,  then  dust  over  coarse  sugar  and  bake  to  a  light  brown 
in  a  slake  oven.  When  they  are  done,  take  out  and  serve  them  either  hot  or  cold  as 
may  be  required. 

Swiss    Macaroons. 

Blanch  and  chop  one  pound  of  sweet  and  four  ounces  of  bitter  almonds,  place 
them  on  a  dish,  mix  with  them  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  place  them  in  a  cool 
oven.  When  they  are  lightly  browned  place  the  almonds  in  a  basin  and  mix  with  them 
a  pound  and  a  half  more  sugar,  and  enough  of  whisked  whites  of  eggs  to  knead  the 
whole  into  a  paste.  Spread  a  sheet  of  wafer-paper  over  a  baking  sheet,  mould  the 
above  mixture  into  small,  round  cakes,  dipping  the  finger  in  water  to  prevent  them 
sticking,  and  lay  the  cakes  on  the  paper.  Leave  a  space  between  each  cake  as  they 
will  spread  while  baking.  Place  two  thin  fillets  of  almonds  on  each  cake,  brush  them 
lightly  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  water,  and  lay  the  cakes  on  the  paper. 
When  they  are  cooked  leave  the  macaroons  until  they  are  cold,  and  then  trim  the 
paper  off  neatly  round  the  edges  with  a  knife. 

White    Macaroons. 

Sift  ten  ounces  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  into  a  basin,  and  mix  in  with  a  wooden 
spoon  six  ounces  of  blanched  sweet  almonds  cut  into  shreds  crosswise,  four  ounces 
of  ground  almonds,  a  small  quantity  of  essence  of  noyau,  and  lastly  the  whites  of 
two  eggs.  Make  these  into  a  paste,  and  with  a  spoon  lay  out  small  quantities  about 
the  size  of  walnuts,  on  sheets  of  paper,  keeping  them  apart.  Dip  a  finger  in  cold 
water,  place  it  in  the  center  of  each  macaroon  to  make  them  flat,  then  place  on  a 


766  PASTRY. 

baking-sheet  in  a  moderate  oven,  and   bake   until  they  are  lightly  browned.     Take 
them  out  and  let  them  get  cold  before  serving. 

Macaroons   with   Almonds. 

Blanch  and  pound  smooth  one-half  pound  of  sweet  and  one-fourth  pound  of  bit- 
ter almonds,  adding  a  very  little  of  the  white  of  an  egg  to  prevent  their  oiling.  If 
they  are  then  allowed  to  stand  all  night  they  will  do  so  much  the  better.  Beat  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  adding  gradually  and  in  very  small  quantities  three 
heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar;  continue  beating  well,  and  stir  in  gradually 
one  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mace,  nutmeg  and  cinnamon  finely  powdered,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  rose  water;  then  add  also,  by  degrees,  the  pounded  almonds.  The 
mixture  should  be  of  the  consistency  of  soft  dough — if  too  thick  it  will  be  heavy, 
and  if  too  thin  the  cakes  will  run  out  of  shape  in  baking;  if  it  is  not  too  thick, 
pound  a  few  more  almonds  and  stir  them  in.  Butter  a  tin  baking-sheet,  flour  the 
hands,  take  the  dough  up  with  a  knife  and  work  into  balls;  lay  on  a  battered  tin, 
bake  to  a  pale  brown.  Have  the  oven  hotter  at  the  top  than  at  the  bottom.  The 
macaroon  should,  in  baking,  rise  in  the  middle,  and  the  surface  should  crack.  Split 
almonds  laid  on  top  before  baking  will  improve  the  effect. 

Macaroons  with   Pistachio   Nuts. 

Blanch  and  chop  fine  ten  ounces  of  pistachios,  place  them  in  a  basin  with  ten 
ounces  of  sifted  crushed  loaf  sugar,  a  little  essence  of  noyau,  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Lay  out  small  quantities  about  the  size  of  walnuts  on  wafer  papers,  keep  them 
apart  and  with  a  moistened  finger  slightly  press  down  the  center  so  as  to  keep  them 
round.  Place  them  in  an  oven  to  bake.  Serve  when  cold. 

Madeleine   Cakes,   Printaniere. 

Rub  the  rinds  of  two  small  lemons  on  a  lump  of  sugar;  crush  it  very  fine  with  a 
roller,  mixing  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  in  with  it.  Put  two  ounces  of  this  into 
a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and  two  whole  eggs, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  all  together  with  a 
spatula,  and  in  two  minutes,  when  the  paste  is  well  mixed,  stir  it  again  for  about  a 
minute  only.  Place  the  saucepan  containing  the  preparation  on  a  very  slow  fire,  stir  it 
slightly  to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan,  and  as  soon  as  it 
becomes  liquid  take  it  off.  Butter  twelve  small  madeleine  moulds,  fill  them  with  the 
preparation,  lay  them  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Remove,  let  them  cool,  and  take  them  out;  cut  a  piece  from  the 
thinnest  part  of  the  top  of  each  one  to  serve  as  a  cover,  and  with  a  dessertspoon  scoop 
out  of  each  a  cavity  one  inch  deep.  Put  into  a  saucepan  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  one- 


PASTRY.  767 

half  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  a  piece  of  vanilla  bean  one  inch  long  and  split  in 
halves,  also  one  pint  of  sweet  cream  and  six  ounces  of  finely-grated  cocoa.  Stir  well 
with  the  spatula  for  two  minutes,  place  the  pan  on  the  hot  stove,  and  stir  constantly 
while  it  is  heating;  but  under  no  conditions  must  it  be  allowed  to  boil.  Remove  it 
from  the  fire  and  place  the  pan  in  a  cool  place  on  the  table  for  thirty  minutes,  strain 
it  through  a  sieve  into  a  freezer  and  freeze.  Fill  the  cavity  of  each  madeleine  with 
this,  replace  the  covers,  lay  them  on  a  wire  grating,  and,  with  a  brush,  gently  glaze  as 
follows:  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of  granulated  sugar  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
cold  water,  and  let  it  come  to  a  boiling  point;  remove  and  immediately  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  strawberry  juice,  mixing  well  together,  and  sprinkle  over  with  two  ounces 
of  well-chopped  pistachios.  Glaze  the  cakes  with  this  and  put  them  in  the  oven  for 
one  minute  or  more;  dress  on  a  dish  with  folded  napkin,  and  serve. 

Madeleine   Cakes  without   Butter. 

Put  three  eggs  in  a  basin  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  beat  them  until 
frothy,  then  mix  in  slowly  three  ounces  of  dried  and  sifted  flour,  and  grate  in  a  small 
quantity  of  lemon  or  orange  peel.  Grease  some  small  madeleine  moulds,  fill  them 
with  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  the  cakes  are  baked  take  them  out 
of  the  moulds,  and  keep  dry  in  biscuit  tins  until  wanted. 

Meringue   Cakes. 

Make  a  sponge  cake  of  the  following  :  Half  a  pound  of  finest  caster-sugar  and 
the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  beaten  together  until  the  sugar  is  quite  dissolved,  then  add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  warmed  to  melting,  one  gill  of  milk,  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  flour  and  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder.  Beat  these  well  and  spread 
thinly  on  a  greased  baking-sheet.  Put  into  a  moderate  oven,  leave  the  door  ajar,  and 
bake.  A  board  should  be  placed  under  the  tin  so  that  the  bottom  of  the  sheet  will 
not  bake  too  quickly.  When  nearly  done  cut  into  squares  and  cover  each  with 
meringue  or  icing  made  stiff.  Place  back  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then 
serve.  Sifted  sugar  may  also  be  sprinkled  over  the  icing  before  returning  to  the 
oven  to  finish  baking. 

Cream   Meringues. 

Take  the  whites  of  six  eggs  and  whip  them  to  a  white  froth,  and  until  they  are 
very  light  and  dry ;  then  mix  in  rapidly  but  gently  one-half  pound  of  caster-sugar. 
Take  some  paraffine-paper  and  spread  it  over  three  boards  about  nine  by  twelve 
inches  in  size;  then,  with  a  spoon,  take  the  mixture  out  and  drop  it  into  oblong  shapes 
on  the  paper  to  the  number  of  about  twelve  on  each  piece.  Place  them  in  a  warm 
closet  to  dry  for  two  hours;  then  take  them  from  the  board,  and  remove  the  soft  part 
with  a  spoon.  Meanwhile  take  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cream,  and  season  it  with  a 


768  PASTRY. 

little  vanilla  or  one  teaspoonful  of  wine,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  caster-sugar.  Whip 
it  into  a  stiff  froth,  then  fill  the  shells  with  it  and  join  them  together.  The  meringues 
must  not  be  exposed  to  any  great  heat,  or  they  will  spoil. 

Maraschino  Meringues. 

Put  one  pound  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan,  reduce  it  almost  to  the  crack,  and  let  it 
cool.  In  the  meantime  beat  the  whites  of  some  eggs  to  a  froth,  and  work  them  into 
the  sugar,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  maraschino.  Arrange  equal-sized  portions 
of  the  meringue  on  strips  of  paper,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bake  in  an  oven;  as  soon 
as  the  top  part  is  set  take  them  out,  place  two  together  with  the  moist  part  left  in 
them,  leave  them  in  a  hot  closet  to  dry  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Mille-Feuilles   Cakes. 

Roll  out  two  pounds  of  rich  puff  paste,  cut  it  into  sixteen  pieces  marking  each 
one  in  the  center  where  a  piece  is  to  be  removed,  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and 
bake.  Take  them  out  when  done,  lift  off  the  centers,  fill  them  with  any  kind  of  jam, 
replace  the  centers,  pile  the  pieces  one  on  top  of  another,  and  the  cake  is  then  ready 
for  serving. 

Molasses    Cake. 

Put  seven  or  eight  breakfast  cupfuls  of  flour  into  a  large  basin  and  rub  in  until 
quite  smooth  one-half  pound  of  butter;  then  mix  with  it  one-half  pound  of  sugar  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  ginger.  Dissolve  one  tablespoonful  of  bicarbonate  of 
soda  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  warm  water,  stir  in  with  it  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
sour  milk  together  with  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  molasses.  Work  the  dough  thor- 
oughly. If  it  is  a  little  too  stiff,  more  water  can  be  added,  or  if  not  stiff  a  little  more 
flour.  Put  the  dough  in  a  buttered  cake-tin  and  bake  in  rather  a  quick  oven.  When 
cut,  the  interior  should  be  quite  dark. 

Nelson    Cake. 

Roll  out  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  puff-paste,  cover  it  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
well-washed  currants,  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  little  spice;  sprinkle  over  a  small 
quantity  of  water  to  make  the  currants  and  sugar  bind,  cover  with  another  pound  of 
rolled-paste,  and  bake.  When  done,  ice  it,  let  it  stand  awhile,  and  serve. 

New    Year   Cakes. 

Place  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  ten  ounces  of  butter  into  a  basin  and 
beat  them  to  a  cream.  Add  three  well-beaten  eggs  two  ounces  of  caraway-seeds, 
one  grated  nutmeg  and  one  pound  of  flour.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  stir  in  one 


PASTRY.  769 

pint  of  milk  and  one  gill  of  rose-water  and  mix  well  again.  Add  two  pounds  more 
of  flour  and  work  the  whole  to  a  smooth  dough.  Roll  it  out,  cut  into  cakes  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  when  cold. 

Nougatinas. 

Blanch  and  chop  fine  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds.  Put  two  pounds  of 
powdered  white  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  in  a  sugar-boiler  over  a  moderate  fire 
and  stir  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  almonds,  stir  them  well  in  and  pour  the  nougatina- 
paste  on  a  well-oiled  marble  slab,  forming  it  into  an  oblong  cake  one  inch  thick. 
Cut  it  in  squares,  and  when  cold,  dip  these  in  melted  chocolate. 

Nut  Cake. 

Warm  one  teacupful  of  butter  in  a  basin,  beat  to  a  cream,  and  add  gradually  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  sugar.  When  the  mixture  is  quite  light  and  frothy,  stir  in  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  then  a  teacupful  of  milk,  add  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  flour  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda.  Now 
work  in  quickly  one  breakfast  cupful  each  of  stoned  raisins  and  blanched  nuts  very 
finely  chopped,  turn  the  mixture  into  well-greased  deep  baking-pans,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  thirty-five  minutes.  Turn  it  out  when  done,  and  serve  cold.  One 
and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  may  be  substituted  for  the  cream  of  tartar 
and  soda  if  preferred. 

Orange  Cake  (Large). 

Sift  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  flour  on  a  paste-board,  cut  eight  ounces  of  butter 
into  small  pieces,  lay  them  on  the  flour  and  work  them  in;  add  four  ounces  each  of 
sugar  and  blanched  and  pounded  almonds,  the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  that 
have  been  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  three  well-beaten  eggs,  and  sufficient  milk  to 
form  a  smooth  paste.  Knead  the  paste  until  all  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  mixed, 
and  then  roll  out  as  thin  as  possible  without  breaking.  Cut  it  to  a  round  shape, 
lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  on  a  baking-slab,  roll  the  trimmings  of  the  paste 
out  into  a  long  strip,  cut  it  lengthwise  into  three,  and  plait  them.  Moisten  round  the 
edges  of  the  cake  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  milk,  and  lay  the  plait  round.  Bake 
the  paste  until  lightly  browned  in  a  moderate  oven.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
together  with  the  grated  peel  and  strained  juice  of  three  oranges,  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
and  one  ounce  of  butter  broken  into  small  pieces.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  lined 
stewpan,  and  whisk  it  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  thickens,  but  on  no  account  let  it  boil, 
or  the  eggs  will  curdle:  then  move  it  away  from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool.  Whisk  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  snow,  and  stir  them  lightly  in  with  the  yolks.  When  the 
crust  is  nearly  cold,  spread  the  mixture  over  it,  garnish  in  a  circle  with  quarters  of 
oranges  from  which  all  the  white  pith  has  been  removed,  pile  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of 
well-whipped  cream  in  the  center,  and  serve. 


770 


PASTRY. 


Marzipan  Paste. 

Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  a  few  bitter  ones,  place  them  in  a  mortar 
and  pound  until  smooth,  adding  a  few  drops  of  rose-water  to  keep  them  from  oiling. 
Put  the  almond  paste  into  a  lined  saucepan  with  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it  will  not  stick  to  the  fingers  when  touched  by  them. 
Dredge  a  paste-board  well  with  powdered  sugar,  spread  the  paste  out  on  it  as  thickly 
as  possible,  and  cut  it  into  cakes  of  any  desired  shape  or  size.  Cover  a  baking-sheet 
with  white  paper,  sprinkle  it  over  with  sugar,  and  lay  the  cakes  on  it.  Place  them  in 
a  slow  oven,  and  bake  until  of  a  pale  yellow  color.  Store  and  keep  the  cakes  dry  in 
tins. 

.    Almond  Apricot   Pastry. 

Put  a  lump  of  butter  in  a  basin,  warm  it  and  beat  in  a  little  sifted,  crushed  loaf 
sugar,  into  which  put  the  required  quantity  of  almonds  blanched  and  pounded  with 
a  little  orange-flower  water,  and  then  add  the  whites  of  some  eggs  and  the  yolks  of 
twice  the  number,  one  at  a  time,  and  lastly,  dredge  in  by  degrees  a  little  dried  and 
sifted  flour.  Work  the  mixture  well  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth,  then  add  a  little 
essence  of  vanilla  to  flavor.  Put  a  border  of  rich  puff-paste  around  a  dish,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  smooth  it  on  the  top  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done  remove 
and  spread  a  layer  of  apricot  jam  on  top  of  it.  Put  the  whites  of  some  eggs  in  a 
basin  with  a  little  lemon  juice  and  icing  sugar  until  the  mixture  is  quite  thick  and  of 
the  consistence  of  butter.  Put  this  icing  over  the  jam,  smoothing  over  the  surface, 
and  set  in  the  oven  again  for  a  few  minutes  for  the  icing  to  set.  Take  out,  let  it  get 
cold,  cut  into  slices,  and  serve. 

Pistachio   Cake. 

Weigh  eight  eggs  in  their  shells  and  allow  an  equal  weight  of  caster-sugar  and 
the  weight  of  two  eggs  of  potato  flour  and  the  same  of  pistachio  nuts.  Separate  the 
yolks  from  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  beat  the  yolks  with  the  sugar;  beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  snow  and  blanch  and  pound  the  nuts,  stirring  in  gradually  half  of 
the  potato  flour,  and  when  well  beaten  half  of  the  whites  of  egg.  When  quite  smooth 
add  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  the  beaten  whites  of  egg  and  then  the  pistachios. 
The  potato  flour  should  be  sprinkled  in  very  gradually  or  it  will  become  lumpy.  Pour 
this  mixture  into  well-buttered  cake-tins  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  done  turn 
the  cake  out  onto  a  piece  of  white  paper  and  allow  it  to  get  cold;  then  mask  it  with 
lemon-flavored  icing,  smoothing  it  over  evenly  with  the  blade  of  a  knife,  and  place  in 
a  cool  oven  for  a  minute  or  two  to  dry  the  icing.  If  desired  the  cake  may  be  deco- 
rated with  fancy  designs  in  angelica,  preserved  cherries,  etc.  It  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place. 


PASTRY.  771 

Plum  Cake. 

A  raised  paste  should  be  made  with  three  ounces  of  butter,  ten  ounces  of  flour 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  three  eggs,  half  an  ounce  of  yeast  and  the  requisite 
quantity  of  milk;  when  risen  enough  turn  it  out  onto  a  well-floured  board  and  roll  it 
into  a  thin,  square  shape,  put  on  a  baking-sheet  and  place  a  rim  of  paste  around  the 
edge.  Allow  it  to  stand  for  about  twenty  minutes  and  brush  the  top  over  with 
butter,  sprinkle  in  a  few  bitter  almonds  blanched  and  finely  chopped  and  mixed  with 
a  quantity  of  cinnamon  powdered.  Cut  the  black-  plums  in  halves,  removing  the 
stones,  and  arrange  on  the  paste  with  the  skin  side  downward  and  putting  them  so  as 
to  overlap  each  other,  then  dust  them  over  with  caster-sugar  and  put  the  cake  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  bake  for  twenty  minutes  or  so.  When  done  sprinkle  over  with 
more  of  the  caster-sugar  and  allow  it  to  become  quite  cold,  when  it  should  be  cut  up 
into  squares  of  any  desired  size  and  shapes,  placed  on  a  dish,  and  served. 

Pop-Overs. 

Mix  to  a  smooth  batter  %two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  flour  and  milk  and  the  yolks 
of  a  couple  of  eggs,  together  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Butter  thoroughly  a 
dozen  small  earthenware  jars,  and  place  them  in  a  pan  in  the  oven  to  heat;  then 
beat  the  whites  of  a  couple  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  in  with  the  rest,  and 
afterwards  put  the  batter  into  the  heated,  buttered  jars,  and  set  them  in  the  oven 
and  bake  until  they  rise  well  and  are  of  a  brown  color  at  the  sides,  where  they  have 
risen  above  the  jars;  turn  them  out  into  cups,  and  serve  hot. 


Portuguese  Cake. 


Beat  in  a  basin  until  frothy  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  half  a  pound  of  caster- 
sugar;  stir  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  blanched  almonds  with  the  white  of  an  egg  to 
prevent  oiling,  rub  them  through  a  sieve  into  a  kitchen  basin,  (ground  almonds  will 
do  as  well)  and  mix  them  with  one  pinch  of  grated  orange-peel  (to  give  zest)  and 
the  juice  of  three  or  four  oranges.  When  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  are  frothy, 
mix  in  gradually  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  potato-flour  and  the  whites  of  six  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Butter  and  paper  a  baking-sheet,  pour  the  mixture  on  this  about  one 
inch  thick,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  the  cake  is  done,  allow  it  to  cool,  trim 
the  surface,  and  mask  first  with  a  thin  layer  of  apricot  marmalade,  and  then  with  a 
layer  of  orange-flavored  icing. 

Pound  Cake. 

Have  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  and  twelve  ounces  of  butter,  and  work  to 
a  cream;  then  add  twelve  well-beaten  eggs,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour,  and 
niace  and  nutmeg  to  suit  the  taste.  Form  into  a  dough,  put  into  small,  buttered  tins, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  quick  oven. 


772  PASTRY. 

Citron    Pound    Cake. 

Have  a  well-heated  oven,  cut  one-fourth  pound  of  candied  citron  into  small 
pieces.  Line  with  buttered-paper  two  cake  tins.  Sift  one  pound  or  so  of  flour.  Place 
one  pound  of  butter  in  a  large  bowl,  work  it  to  a  cream  and  beat  in  the  following 
ingredients  each  in  turn;  one  pound  each  of  powdered  sugar  and  flour,  one  teaspoonfui 
of  salt,  one  wineglass  of  brandy  and  eight  eggs;  then  add  the  citron  and  bake  the 
cake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  forty-five  minutes,  or  until  a  straw  can  be  thrust  into  it 
and  drawn  out  without  being  sticky. 

Cocoanut  Pound    Cake. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  basin,  warm  and  beat  to  a  cream,  mix  in  one 
pound  of  caster-sugar  and  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  a  cupful  of  mik  and  four 
eggs  beaten  separately.  When  these  are  mixed,  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bicarbonate 
of  soda  and  sufficient  flour  to  make  the  mixture  of  the  required  consistence;  mix  in 
the  grated  white  of  a  cocoanut,  put  in  a  sharp  oven,  an/d  bake  for  half  an  hour. 

Puff-Paste    Cakes. 

Prepare  one  pound  of  puff-paste  of  six  turns,  put  it  in  a  cold  place  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  roll  it  out  to  one-fourth  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  it  with  a  sharp  knife 
into  pieces  of  a  rectangular  shape  about  four  inches  long  and  two  inches  broad,  which 
cut  again  into  halves  across  from  one  corner  to  the  other;  mark  with  the  point  of  a 
knife  in  lines  converging  to  the  square  corner  so  as  to  resemble  a  fan.  Butter  a  bak- 
ing-tin, lay  the  pieces  of  paste  on  their  sides  on  it  leaving  a  small  space  between 
them,  and  bake  in  a  very  quick  oven.  Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish,  dust  over  with 
sugar,  and  serve. 

Raisin    Cake. 

Put  one  pound  of  butter  into  a  basin  to  warm,  beat  it  to  a  cream  and  add 
gradually  one  pound  of  sifted  flour,  the  same  weight  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  the 
yolks  of  half  a  dozen  eggs.  Stir  these  well,  and  when  thoroughly  mixed,  add  one 
wineglassful  of  brandy,  a  grated  nutmeg,  one  teaspoonfui  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  finally  the  whites  of  the  six  eggs  whipped 
to  a  firm  froth.  Work  until  the  mixture  has  a  light  creamy  appearance,  then  add  one 
pound  of  stoned-raisins  finely-chopped  and  sprinkle  over  with  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  flour  to  make  them  mix  more  easily.  Pour  the  cake  mixture  into  a  tin  or  mould 
lined  with  well-buttered  paper  and  bake  it  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  when  done,  turn  it 
out  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  A  few  rose-leaves  steeped  in  brandy  will  add  to  the 
flavor  of  the  cake. 


PASTRY.  773 

Ratafias. 

Small  biscuits  so  called  because  made  with  almonds,  taking  their  name  from  the 
liquor.  They  are  very  nice  for  garnishes  and  are  made  as  follows:  Blanch  and  pound 
in  a  mortar  one-half  pound  each  of  bitter  and  sweet  almonds,  adding  gradually  the 
whites  of  seven  eggs.  When  the  almonds  are  pounded  fine  sift  two  pounds  of  pow- 
dered sugar  into  the  mortar  and  work  it  well  with  the  pestle.  It  is  very  important 
that  the  sugar  should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  other  ingredients.  Wash 
a  bladder  very  clean,  cut  a  small  hole  at  one  end  of  it  and  fasten  by  binding  a  glass 
tube  the  size  of  a  quill  into  it;  or  use  a  biscuit  bag.  Put  into  the  bladder  or  bag  the 
ratafia  paste,  press  it  gently  through  the  tube  and  let  it  drop  onto  an  egg  wafer  paper, 
dropping  in  the  biscuits  so  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other.  Bake  them  on  tin 
baking-sheets  in  a  hot  oven.  Separate,  trim  off  the  egg  paper  with  scissors  and  set 
in  a  screen  to  dry. 

Savarin   Cake. 

By  many  cooks  this  cake  is  confounded  with  the  Baba  Cake;  but  there  is  no 
good  reason  for  associating  the  two  together.  Rub  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
butter  into  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  then  mix  in  five  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
four  well-beaten  eggs  and  sufficient  warm  milk  to  make  a  dough.  Knead  it  well, 
then  mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  leaven.  Blanch  and  chop  very  fine  two  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds;  butter  the  interior  of  a  cake-mould  and  spread  the  chopped  almonds 
over  it,  put  in  the  cake  mixture  and  place  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  When  well 
risen  set  the  cake  in  the  oven  and  bake  it.  Put  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  boil  until  it  is  reduced  to  two-thirds  its  orig- 
inal quantity,  then  pour  in  two  wineglassfuls  of  rum,  boil  it  up  and  remove  from  the 
fire.  When  cooked  turn  the  cake  out  of  the  mould  onto  a  dish  and  pour  the  sauce 
over  it.  It  may  then  be  served  either  hot  or  cold. 

Savory   Cake. 

Beat  four  eggs,  stir  them  with  two  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  in  one 
tablespoonful  of  minced  chives  and  a  little  salt.  Butter  a  shallow  tin,  pour  in  the 
cake  mixture  and  bake  it  in  a  brisk  oven  until  thoroughly  browned. 

Shortcakes. 

Rub  together  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  a  pound  of  flour,  mixing  in  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  caster-sugar,  a  beaten  egg  and  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Dust  a  board  with 
some  flour  and  roll  out  the  paste  quite  thin,  then  cut  into  small  fancy  shapes,  brush- 
ing over  the  top  of  each  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  beaten  white  of  egg,  and  dust 
some  caster-sugar  over  the  top;  then  butter  some  tin  dishes,  place  the  cakes  in  them 


774  PASTRY. 

and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  ten  to  twelve  minutes,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold, 
as  desired. 

Peach   Shortcake. 

Peel  one  quart  of  ripe  peaches,  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  mix  them  with  a  break- 
fast cupful  of  sugar,  and  set  them  in  a  cool  place.  Rub  eight  ounces  of  butter  in 
twelve  ounces  of  flour,  make  a  hollow  in  the  center,  then  pour  in  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  ice  water,  and  mix  it  up  soft.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  a  paste-board,  and  roll 
the  paste  out  on  it,  folding  and  rolling  it  out  three  or  four  times  to  make  it  flakey; 
gather  the  paste  into  a  lump,  let  it  stand  five  minutes,  then  roll  it  about  one-fourth 
inch  in  thickness,  and  bake  it  on  a  baking-sheet.  Split  the  cake  into  two  when  baked, 
spread  some  peaches  and  sugar  on  the  lower  half,  put  the  top  on,  the  cut  side  up,  and 
spread  more  peaches  and  sugar  over  that,  place  it  on  a  dish,  and  serve  with  cream. 


Strawberry   Shortcake. 


Sift  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  flour  and  three  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder  through  a  fine  hair-sieve  onto  a  marble  slab,  then  rub  in  three  ounces  of 
butter  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth,  add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  more  than 
one-half  teacupful  of  sugar,  and  stir  in  sufficient  milk  to  form  the  whole  into  a  stiff 
paste.  Mix  well,  dredge  the  paste  lightly  over  with  flour,  and  roll  it  out  very  thin. 
Divide  the  paste  into  six  equal-sized  squares.  Butter  a  shallow  baking-dish,  put  in 
one  square  of  the  paste,  spread  a  little  butter  over  it,  and  dredge  it  lightly  over  with 
flour;  place  another  square  of  paste  over  the  first  one,  flour  and  butter  that  also,  and 
proceed  in  the  same  way  with  the  remainder.  Put  the  cake  into  a  brisk  oven,  and 
bake  it  for  about  twenty  minutes.  When  cooked,  turn  the  cake  out  of  the  tin,  lay  it 
on  a  dish,  and  put  over  it  as  many  fresh  strawberries  as  will  cover  it,  strew  over  some 
powdered  sugar,  and  cover  with  another  layer  of  cake.  Finish  with  alternate  layers 
of  strawberries  and  cake,  making  the  last  layer  of  strawberries,  over  which  sift  more 
sugar.  Whip  about  one  pint  of  rich  cream  to  a  stiff  froth,  pile  it  all  around  the  cake, 
and  serve. 

Soda   Cakes. 

Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  with  one  pound  of  flour,  and  rub 
into  it  half  a  pound  of  warm  butter.  When  quite  smooth,  add  three  beaten  eggs, 
half  a  pound  of  currants  washed  and  dried,  half  a  pound  of  caster-sugar,  and  a  few 
caraway  seeds.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  put  in  buttered  tin,  and  bake. 


Spice   Cakes. 


Put  one  and  one-fourth  pound  of  flour  in  a  basin  and  rub  in  one  pound  of  butter 
with  the  hands  until  smooth,  mix  in  one  pound  of  well  washed  currants,  one-fourth 
pound  of  moist  sugar,  one-third  of  a  tablespoonful  of  pounded  spice,  one-half  table- 


PASTRY.  775 

spoonful  of  yeast  that  has  been  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  and  the  white  of  one  egg,  together  with  one  wineglassful  of  brandy.  Stir  the 
ingredients  well  and  stand  the  mixture  close  to  the  fire,  where  it  will  rise  for  thirty 
minutes  or  so.  Divide  the  cake  mixture  into  small  portions,  mould  these  into  nicely- 
shaped  cakes,  place  them  on  baking-sheets  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Leave  the 
cakes  until  cold,  then  pile  them  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Sponge-Cakes,   Large. 

Boil  one  pound  of  lump  sugar  in  a  teacupful  of  boUing  water,  and  when  boiling 
pour  it  over  six  eggs,  whisk  for  half  an  hour;  sift  in  slowly  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  grate  the  rind  of  one  lemon  and  mix  in.  When  well  worked  together  put  in  a 
greased  mould  of  any  suitable  shape  and  bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  a 
little  longer  if  required. 

Almond  Sponge   Cake. 

Take  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sweet  almonds  and  mix  the  whites  of  some  eggs, 
adding  a  little  grated  lemon  rind,  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  fifteen  or  sixteen  eggs,  well 
whisked.  Then  take  the  whites  of  a  dozen  or  so  eggs,  whip  them  to  a  froth  and  stir 
them  in;  sift  in  slowly,  beating  all  the  time,  a  small  quantity  of  dried  flour,  then  pour 
this  into  a  tin,  carefully  buttered  and  dusted  with  fine  sugar,  until  it  is  half  full;  put 
it  into  the  oven  and  bake  for  an  hour.  When  done  turn  it  out  and  set  it  on  the  sieve 
to  cool. 

Sponge   Cake,   Chantilly. 

Cut  off  the  top  of  a  stale  sponge  cake,  scoop  out  the  inside,  leaving  the  wall 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  this  on  a  glass  dish,  fill  the  hollow  with  one-half 
pound  of  cherries  (stoned  and  stalks  taken  off),  pour  over  them  a  wineglassful  of 
brandy,  and  then  replace  the  top  of  the  cake.  Put  one-half  pint  of  rich  cream  and 
one  ounce  of  powdered  white  sugar  into  a  large  bowl,  and  with  an  egg-whisk  whip 
the  cream  to  a  stiff  froth;  add  to  this  six  or  eight  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla,  and 
pour  it  over  the  cake  just  before  serving. 

St.  Honore  Cake. 

This  exceptionally  beautiful  dish  requires  much  skill  and  patience  to  prepare. 
Peel  neatly  two  medium-sized,  sound,  blood  oranges.  Separate  carefully  the  sec- 
tions to  prevent  tearing  the  skin,  for,  if  they  should  lose  any  of  their  juice  they  will 
be  of  little  use.  Lay  a  sheet  of  paper  over  a  tin  plate,  arranging  the  pieces  of 
orange  on  top,  and  leave  them  to  dry  for  hours  in  a  warm  place.  Wipe  neatly 
twenty-four  malaga  grapes,  leaving  on  each  one  about  a  third  of  an  inch  of  stem,  so 
that  they  will  remain  firm  while  using  them.  Beat  up  a  pint  and  a  half  of  sweet 


776  PASTRY. 

vanilla  cream,  and  lay  it  aside  in  a  cool  place  until  needed.  Roll  three  ounces  of 
tart-paste  into  a  round  piece  eight  or  nine  inches  in  diameter.  Lay  it  on  a  baking- 
sheet  ten  inches  wide,  and  prepare  a  chou-paste  as  follows:  Put  into  a  saucepan  one 
gill  of  cold  milk,  with  one  ounce  of  best  butter,  place  it  on  a  hot  fire,  and,  when 
boiling,  add  at  once  three  ounces  of  well-sifted  flour.  Stir- briskly  with  the  spatula 
all  round,  take  it  from  the  fire,  set  it  on  a  table,  and  add  immediately  one  saltspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  sugar,  mixing  well  for  one  minute  more.  Break  an  egg  in  it,  stir 
briskly  for  one  minute;  break  in  another,  mix  again,  and  then  another,  mixing  all  to- 
gether for  two  minutes.  Push  down  the  pastry  bag  a  small  tube,  pour  in  the  above 
preparation,  and  press  down  the  top  with  the  hands  onto  the  edge  of  the  paste  in  the 
baking-sheet,  so  as  to  form  an  even  border  half  an  inch  high,  and  with  the  remainder 
of  the  paste  press  down  onto  another  baking-sheet  into  twenty-four  small,  round  chou- 
pans  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  leaving  them  one  inch  apart.  Glaze  the  surfaces  with 
a  beaten  egg,  and  place  them  in  a  brisk  oven  to  bake  for  about  twelve  minutes.  Re- 
move, and  allow  them  to  get  thoroughly  cold.  Spread  over  the  paste  inside  the 
border  two  tablespoonfuls  of  apple  marmalade;  then  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  to 
bake  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Make  a  paper  cornet,  cut  off  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from 
the  point,  and  put  into  it  three  ounces  of  red  currant  jelly.  Press  this  out  gently,  di- 
viding it  equally  among  the  twenty-four  small  chous.  Make  one  pound  of  granulated 
sugar  into  a  rich  syrup.  Oil  two  square  feet  of  the  surface  of  a  marble  table  and  place 
at  hand  the  pan  containing  the  syrup.  Plunge  one  of  the  grapes  into  this,  remove  it  im- 
mediately with  a  fork  and  place  it  on  the  oiled  table.  Proceed  the  same  with  the  other 
twenty-three,  being  careful  to  lay  them  one  inch  apart  from  each  other.  Now  dip 
twelve  of  the  sections  of  prepared  oranges  into  the  syrup,  one  at  a  time,  and  lay 
them  on  the  oiled  table  exactly  the  same  as  the  grapes.  Dip  carefully  the  surfaces 
of  the  small  chou  into  the  syrup,  and  lay  on  the  same  oiled  table.  Then  take  the 
St.  Honore  bottom  in  the  baking-sheet,  and  proceed  to  'arrange  it  as  follows:  With 
the  syrup  standing  on  the  right,  lift  the  chous  up,  one  by  one,  dipping  one  side  of  each 
lightly  in  the  syrup,  arranging  them  on  top  of  the  chou-paste  border,  close  together 
to  form  a  crown.  Should  the  sugar  be  too  thick,  return  it  to  the  stove  and  allow  it 
to  boil  up  again;  then  take  it  off,  and  dip  the  thin  part  of  the  oranges  lightly  in  it, 
and  lay  them  over  the  small  chous,  the  thick  part  upward,  each  one  adhering  to  the 
other  until  they  form  a  crown.  Dip  the  tops  of  the  grapes  lightly  into  the  same 
sugar,  and  place  one  upon  each  joint  of  the  oranges,  with  another  in  the  center,  the 
stems  being  upward;  attach  to  the  small  chous  the  six  remaining  grapes,  dividing 
them  evenly.  Arrange  a  fancy  paper  on  a  dessert-dish,  and  lay  the  St.  Honore  over 
it  carefully;  then  take  the  frothy  part  of  the  whipped  cream,  transfer  it  to  another 
dish,  and,  with  the  whisk,  beat  briskly  for  five  minutes,  adding  half  a  gill  of  good 
cognac,  a  quarter  of  gill  of  kirsch,  and  three  ounces  of  well-pounded  and  sifted  maca- 
roons. Stir  well  together  for  two  minutes  longer,  and  fill  the  empty  space  of  the  St. 
Honore  with  three-quarters  of  this  preparation,  keeping  it  as  high  as  possible.  With 
the  use  of  the  pastry-bag  and  fancy-tube,  press  down  the  balance  of  the  cream,  and 


PASTRY.  777 

decorate  artistically  the  top  and  sides,  taking  care  not  to  put  any  on  the  oranges,  and 
then  send  the  cake  to  table. 

Tea   Cakes. 

Sift  one  pound  of  flour  onto  a  pasteboard,  make  a  well  in  the  center  of  it,  in 
which  put  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  one-half  pound  of 
slightly-warmed  butter.  Mix  all  well  together,  then  stir  in  four  well-beaten  eggs 
and  enough  cold  water  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Knead  the  paste  well  with  the  hands, 
then  roll  it  out  to  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  the  paste  into 
rounds  with  a  tin-cutter  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  butter  a  baking-dish,  lay  the 
pieces  of  paste  on  it,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  water  and  sift  a 
small  quantity  of  powdered-sugar  over  the  top  of  them.  Bake  the  cakes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  and  serve  when  cold. 

Vacherin. 

This  is  the  name  of  a  French  paste,  and  it  is  used  chiefly  for  making  a  case  to 
hold  chantilly  cream.  It  is  compounded  of  ground  or  pounded  almonds,  sugar  and 
the  whites  of  eggs.  The  following  recipe  is  for: 


Chantilly   Vacherin. 


Prepare  a  paste  by  beating  up  one  pound  of  ground  almonds  and  one  pound  of 
powdered  or  icing-sugar  with  as  many  whites  of  eggs  as  are  necessary  to  bind  it  and 
give  to  it  a  firm  consistence.  Cut  off  about  three-fourths  of  the  paste  and  roll  it  out 
into  a  flat  strip  long  enough  and  deep  enough  to  go  around  the  outside  of  a  charlotte 
mould  so  as  to  cover  the  side  and  overlap  at  the  extremities  of  the  strip.  Fasten  the 
ends  together  with  strong  icing-sugar,  and  then,  after  trimming  the  edges  all  round 
to  the  exact  size  of  the  mould,  place  it  in  a  quick  oven  and  bake  it  until  nicely 
browned.  In  order  to  keep  the  ends  together  while  it  is  baking,  tie  round  the  strip  a 
piece  of  broad  tape  or  string,  removing  it  as  soon  as  the  joint  is  strong.  Then  form  a 
flat  round  with  the  remainder  of  the  paste  and  place  that  on  the  top  of  the  strip  after  it 
has  been  removed  from  the  mould.  Stick  the  bottom  on  the  strip  with  icing,  and  then 
place  it  in  the  oven  again  to  set  and  brown  nicely.  When  the  case  is  strong  and 
cold,  turn  it  up  and  set  it  on  a  glass-dish  with  a  lace-paper  underneath  and  then  pro- 
ceed to  decorate  the  outside  of  the  case  with  tinted  meringue  applied  through  a  cor- 
net, halves  of  candied  cherries  and  beads  of  colored  meringue  as  fancy  may  dictate. 
When  all  ready,  place  the  case  in  a  drying-stove  until  the  meringue  is  well  set.  Be- 
fore serving,  fill  the  case  with  heaped  up  well-whipped  vanilla  cream  and  sprinkle 
some  variegated  nonpareils  over  the  cream.  The  base  may  be  garnished  with  maca- 
roons or  other  sweet  biscuits  and  the  vacherin  may  be  tinted  rose,  cream  or  lavender. 


778  PASTRY. 

Vanilla    Cake. 

Prepare  about  one  pound  of  fine  puff  paste,  roll  it  out  thin,  sprinkle  over  a  few 
drops  of  essence  of  vanilla,  fold  the  paste  over  and  work  it  in.  Place  it  on  a  baking- 
sheet,  have  it  six  inches  wide  and  two  and  one-half  inches  thick  or  thereabouts; 
surround  it  with  a  band  of  thick  paper  to  prevent  its  spreading  while  cooking,  brush 
the  surface  with  egg,  decorate  it  into  any  desired  form,  place  it  in  a  quick  oven  and 
bake  it  for  about  two  hours  and  a  half  or  more.  This  cake  must  be  allowed  to  remain 
in  the  oven  until  entirely  done,  otherwise  it  will  be  soft  and  uneatable.  When  done, 
sprinkle  over  some  sugar,  and  serve  cold.  If  the  vanilla  flavoring  is  not  liked,  the 
cakes  may  be  flavored  with  almost  anything  else,  such  as  chopped  orange-flowers, 
orange  or  citron  peel,  currants,  Parmesan  cheese,  or  any  flavoring  that  may  be  pre- 
ferred. 

Walnut   Cake   (Large). 

Warm  one-half  pound  of  butter,  and  beat  together  with  one-half  pound  of  sugar 
until  creamy;  then  sift  in  one-fourth  pound  of  flour  that  has  been  mixed  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Add  one-half  pound  of  peeled  and 
chopped  walnuts,  and  flavor  with  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence.  Whip  the  whites 
of  eight  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them  into  the  above  mixture.  Butter  a  cake-tin, 
pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done,  turn 
the  cake  out  onto  a  tin,  and  leave  it  until  cold. 

Wine   Cake. 

Put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  of  wine, 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  on  the  point  of  boiling.  Take  the  sweetened  wine  off  the 
fire  and  leave  it  till  cooled  to  blood  heat.  Beat  six  eggs  well,  and  mix  them  with 
the  wine,  then  stir  the  liquor  gradually  into  four  ounces  of  the  best  white  flour,  and 
beat  it  well.  Butter  a  cake-tin,  pour  in  the  cake,  and  bake  it  in  a  quick  oven. 
Remove  the  cake  from  the  tin  as  soon  as  baked. 


Genoese   Pastry. 


Warm  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  heat  it,  then  mix  in  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and 
whip  the  two  together  until  creamy ;  beat  in,  one  at  a  time,  four  eggs,  then  stir  in 
quickly  four  ounces  of  finely-sifted  flour,  and  work  it  till  quite  smooth.  Butter 
a  flat  tin  thick,  pour  the  mixture  onto  it  spreading  it  to  about  one-half  inch  in  thick- 
ness, and  bake  at  once  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven.  When  cooked  turn  the 
pastry  onto  a  sieve,  and  leave  until  cool,  the  underside  uppermost.  Spread  a  thin 
layer  of  apricot  jam  over  the  pastry,  then  a  layer  of  chocolate  icing,  and  put  it  to  dry 
for  a  minute  in  an  oven.  When  quite  cold  cut  the  pastry  into  various  fancy  shapes, 
and  serve. 


PASTRY.  779 

Neapolitan    Pastry 

Make  a  rich  puff  paste,  roll  it  out  to  about  one-half  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  it 
into  strips  about  two  inches  wide;  lay  these  on  a  baking-dish,  a  little  distance  from 
each  other  so  that  when  they  spread  they  will  not  join,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
Remove  and  mask  half  of  them  with  raspberry  or  strawberry  jam,  and  place  the  other 
half  on  top.  Ice  them  with  colored  icing,  arrange  tastefully  on  a  fancy  dish,  and 
serve. 

Royal   Pastry. 

Put  two  gills  of  water  in  a  large  saucepan  with  a  little  more  than  four  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  the  peel  of  one  lemon,  and  a  little  salt.  Boil  it 
till  the  butter  is  melted,  then  take  the  lemon  peel  out;  throw  in  sufficient  finely-sifted 
flour  to  make  a  stiff  paste,  stir  it  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  the  paste  can 
be  easily  detached  from  the  saucepan,  then  take  it  off.  Break  in,  one  at  a  time,  five 
or  six  eggs,  but  do  not  put  more  than  the  paste  can  absorb,  and  mix  each  one  in  before 
the  next  is  added.  Shape  the  paste  into  equal-sized  balls,  and  put  them  about  one 
inch  apart  from  each  other  on  a  baking-sheet.  Brush  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped 
in  beaten  egg  and  milk,  put  them  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  do  not  open  the  door 
till  they  are  done,  or  they  will  flatten.  Dry  them,  detach  them  from  the  baking-sheet 
with  the  point  of  a  knife,  make  a  small  hole  in  the  tops,  put  one  teaspoonful  of  jam, 
or  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  in  each,  and  serve. 

Wafers. 

A  variety  of  wafers  will  be  found  described  under  various  headings,  their  mode 
of  preparation  being  thoroughly  explained.  Should  it  be  desired  to  make  the  wafers 
exceedingly  thin  and  exact  in  size,  it  is  desirable  to  use  wafer-irons  or  tongs,  which 
are  of  square,  round,  oval,  or  oblong  shape,  the  faces  being  made  to  stamp  patterns 
or  letters.  The  following  will  be  found  excellent  recipes: 


Blanch  and  pound  to  a  pulp  in  a  mortar  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sweet  almonds 
and  beat  with  them  two  eggs  to  each  half  pound  of  the  almonds  used;  then  sift  grad- 
ually, while  beating,  some  powdered  sugar  and  a  little  fine  flour;  add  two  or  three 
drops  of  the  essence  of  lemon.  Butter  lightly  a  warm,  clean  baking-sheet  and  spread 
the  mixture  with  a  spatula  very  thinly  and  evenly  over  it  and  place  in  a  quick  oven 
and  bake  until  of  a  pale  brown  color.  Then  remove,  cut  the  paste  with  a  knife  into 
oblongs  and  roll  each  lengthwise  around  a  piece  of  round  stick  about  a  half  inch  in 
diameter.  Let  them  get  cold  and  hard  and  then  remove  the  sticks.  These  wafers 
are  very  useful  as  a  garnish  for  creams  and  other  light,  sweet  entremets. 


780  PASTRY. 

Chocolate   Wafers. 

Whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  then  mix  them  with  four  ounces  of  grated 
chocolate,  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  enough  flour  to  form  a  stiff  paste. 
Roll  out  thin,  cut  into  cakes  and  lay  on  a  baking-tin  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes. 
When  cooked  roll  them,  one  at  a  time,  around  the  handle  of  a  wooden  spoon. 

Cinnamon   Wafers. 

Sift  six  ounces  of  finely-powdered  white  sugar,  place  it  in  an  earthenware  basin 
with  six  or  eight  ounces  of  flour,  half  an  ounce  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  six  ounces 
of  melted  butter  and  one  well  beaten  egg.  Mix  all  these  with  a  small  quantity  of 
milk  to  a  thin  paste.  Heat  an  iron  plate  very  hot,  rub  it  over  well  with  butter,  put 
on  it  a  teaspoonful  of  paste,  fry  to  a  good  brown,  turn  it  and  fry  the  opposite  side 
brown  also;  then  roll  it  round  a  small  stick.  Proceed  in  this  way,  frying  the  paste 
and  rolling  it  round  the  stick  till  all  are  done.  Let  the  wafers  get  quite  cold  before 
removing  the  sticks. 

Wafers    Filled   with    Cream. 

Beat  together  one-fourth  pound  of  powdered  vanilla  sugar  and  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  until  frothy.  Dry  well  one-half  pound  of  flour  and  pass  it  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Blanch,  peel  and  chop  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  mix  them  together 
with  the  flour  into  the  beaten  eggs,  adding  gradually  two  more  beaten  eggs  and  a 
small  pinch  of  salt.  When  the  paste  is  quite  smooth  (it  should  be  liquid),  bake  a 
little  of  it  in  the  oven  to  test  its  consistency  Wax  and  sprinkle  with  flour  some  bak- 
ing-sheets, spread  thin  layers  of  the  above  mixture  over  them  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  When  done  divide  the  wafers  into  four-inch  squares  and  roll  them  into  the 
shape  of  cornets.  Have  in  readiness  a  decorated  gum-paste  stand  with  a  small  sup- 
port in  the  center  with  two  round  shelves  jutting  out  a  little  above  each  other.  Fix 
the  stand  on  a  round  glass  dish,  place  nine  of  the  cornets  side  by  side  round  the 
lower  shelf,  six  round  the  second  shelf  and  stand  a  vase  of  sweets  on  the  top;  use 
sugar  icing  to'make  the  cornets  adhere  to  the  stand.  Flavor  one  pint  or  more  of 
thick  cream  with  a  little  vanilla  and  whip  it  to  a  thick  froth;  then  fill  the  cornets  with 
the  cream  and  garnish  round  the  base  of  the  stand  with  macaroons  and  candied  fruits 
and  round  the  bottom  of  the  lower  shelf  with  candied  flowers.  Serve  as  soon  as 
prepared. 

French   Wafers. 

Put  one-half  pound  of  finely-sifted  flour  into  a  basin  with  one-half  pound  of 
crushed  sugar,  one  pinch  of  salt  and  one  tablespoonful  of  vanilla.  Beat  the  whites 
of  four  eggs  with  one-half  pint  of  whipped  cream.  Beat  them  gradually  in  with  the 
flour,  etc.,  and  work  the  whole  into  a  smooth  batter;  then  pour  in  one  wineglassful 


PASTRY.  781 

of  brandy  and  work  it  thoroughly  for  about  ten  minutes.  Heat  the  wafer  irons, 
brush  them  over  on  the  inside  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  clarified  butter,  pour  one 
good  tablespoonful  of  the  batter  on  the  bottom  or  under  sheet  of  the  wafer  irons, 
close  the  tongs  tightly  and  bake  the  wafers  on  both  sides.  They  must  be  of  a  very 
light  fawn  color,  and  when  done  are  to  be  immediately  rolled  into  shape  upon  a  stick 
made  for  the  purpose  about  five  inches  long  and  one  inch  in  thickness.  When  all  are 
done  the  wafers  should  be  packed  in  a  tin  box  and  kept  in  a  warm,  dry  place  until 
required  for  use. 

Lemon   Wafers. 

Beat  two  eggs  and  mix  with  them  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and 
flour,  the  juice  of  one  and  the  grated  peel  of  half  a  lemon.  Stir  the  above  to  mix 
well,  then  spread  it  in  small  thin  cakes  on  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  place  them  in  a 
slow  oven  and  bake  until  slightly  colored.  When  cooked  take  the  cakes  out  of  the 
oven,  roll  them,  one  at  a  time,  round  the  handle  of  a  wooden  spoon,  and  serve. 

Vanilla   Flavored   Wafers. 

These  are  made  the  same  as  wafers  with  pistachios,  mixing  half  a  stick  of  vanilla 
well  pounded  with  the  sugar,  and  half  a  glass  of  brandy  in  place  of  the  orange-flower 
water. 

American   Waffles. 

Boil  one  teacupful  of  rice  until  it  is  quite  soft;  stir  m  with  it  a  raw  egg,  one 
tablespoonful  each  of  flour  and  milk,  and  beat  all  together  to  a  smooth  paste.  Allow 
it  to  cool,  put  it  into  well-greased  waffle  irons,  and  cook.  When  the  waffles  are  done 
on  both  sides,  lay  them  on  a  hot  plate,  butter  them,  and  serve  hot. 

French   Waffles. 

Put  nine  ounces  of  flour  in  a  basin  with  one  teacupful  of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful 
of  vanilla  sugar,  one  wineglassful  of  noyeau,  and  the  yolks  of  eight  or  nine  eggs; 
when  well  mixed  stir  in  an  equal  number  of  whites  of  eggs  and  one  pint  of  cream. 
Cook  the  waffles  as  directed  for  flemish  waffles. 

Raised    Waffles. 

At  night  mix  together  one  pint  of  lukewarm  milk  in  which  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  have  been  melted,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid  yeast,  or  half  a  small  cake  of 
compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  one  gill  of  water,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  about  one  pound  of  flour.  When  this  batter  is  thoroughly  mixed,  cover 
it,  and  stand  it  over  night  in  a  warm  place.  In  the  morning,  heat  a  waffle-iron,  butter 
it,  put  in  the  batter  without  stirring  it  down,  and  then  bake  the  waffles.  Serve  with 
butter  and  powdered  sugar. 


Pastes. 

Almond   Paste. 

Blanch  some  Jordan  almonds  the  day  before  they  are  required  for  use  and  allow 
them  to  remain  in  cold  water.  Soak  two-thirds  of  this  quantity  of  clean  gum-dragon 
in  a  jar  with  a  little  water  long  enough  to  allow  it  to  absorb  all  the  water.  Pound 
the  almonds  to  a  pulp,  adding  a  little  lemon  juice  to  prevent  them  from  oiling. 
When  they  are  like  a  smooth  paste,  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Having  done  this,  put 
the  almonds  into  a  sugar-boiler  with  some  icing-sugar  and  stir  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  This  should  be  done  briskly  so  that  the  paste  should  not  be  allowed  to 
color.  When  it  does  not  stick  to  the  sides  of  the  pan,  it  may  be  taken  off  the  fire. 
The  gum  must  now  be  squeezed  through  strong  cloth,  rubbed  upon  a  slab  and  grad- 
ually worked  into  paste,  together  with  a  little  more  of  the  sugar.  This  kind  of  paste 
is  usually  employed  for  making  baskets,  etc.,  which,  when  filled  with  strawberries 
and  cream,  'or  any  other  kind  of  fruit  make  a  pretty  dish. 

Chopped   Paste. 

Put  one  quart  of  pastry-flour,  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful 
of  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  on  a  chopping-board  and  chop  them  all  together 
until  well  mixed;  add  three-fourths  of  a  breakfast  cupful  of  iced- water  and  continue 
chopping.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  lift  the  paste,  sprinkle  the  board  with  flour,  then 
roll  the  paste  out  thin  on  it.  The  paste  is  better  to  stand  on  ice  for  a  while,  as  it 
should  be  hard  before  being  used. 

Crisp   Paste. 

Sift  four  ounces  of  flour  and  two  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar;  mix  together 
and  work  them  into  a  paste  with  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Use  a  wooden 
spoon  to  mix  the  paste,  touching  it  as  little  as  possible  with  the  hands.  This  paste 
may  be  used  in  making  fruit  tarts;  it  should  be  baked  in  a  hot  oven  and  immediately 
before  putting  it  into  the  oven  should  be  brushed  over  with  well-beaten  white  of  egg 
and  sprinkled  with  powdered  white  sugar. 

Croquante   Paste. 

Mix  eight  ounces  of  fine  sugar  with  one  pound  of  flour,  then  stir  in  sufficient 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs  to  form  a  smooth  paste.  When  well-kneaded,  roll  it  out  in  the 

782 


PASTES.  783 

specified  shape  and  about  one-fourth  inch  thick.  Rub  the  shape  with  butter  and 
press  the  paste  closely  over  it  to  cut  the  pattern  well  through,  then  lay  it  on  a  bak- 
ing-tin, dip  a  paste-brush  in  the  beaten  white  of  egg,  and  brush  the  surface  of  the 
paste  over;  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  cooked,  remove  it 
carefully  from  the  tin,  and  cover  with  jam. 

Paste   for   Borders. 

Put  into  a  bowl  the  yolks  of  six  or  eight  eggs,  a  few  drops  of  water  and  a  little 
salt,  and  mix  in  flour  till  it  is  so  stiff  that  it  can  hardly  be  worked.  Beat  and  work 
it  till  quite  smooth,  and  keep  it  moist  until  required;  roll  it  out  quite  thin,  cut  it  in 
the  desired  shapes,  and  then  place  them  on  the  dish  before  they  get  too  dry.  Brush 
over  with  the  white  of  egg. 

Paste  for   Cheese   Cakes. 

Mix  with  one  pound  of  best-sifted  flour  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar.  Beat 
eight  ounces  of  butter  till  of  a  creamy  consistence,  then  sift  the  flour  and  sugar  gradu- 
ally into  it.  When  well  mixed,  work  in  the  whole  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the  well- 
beaten  whites  of  two.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Paste  for   Custards  or   Preserved   Fruits. 

Put  six  ounces  of  butter  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of 
water,  let  it  come  to  the  boil,  and  then  mix  into  it  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a  stiff 
paste,  Knead  and  beat  it  with  a  rolling-pin  till  smooth,  then  form  it  into  a  lump, 
and  cover  with  a  cloth  till  almost  cold.  Take  a  piece  of  the  paste  large  enough  for 
the  purpose,  knead  it  into  a  lump,  then  press  the  knuckles  of  the  left  hand  into  the 
top  nearly  in  the  middle,  and  with  the  right  hand  keep  working  the  paste  up  the  back 
of  the  left  hand,  shifting  it  round  and  round  meanwhile,  forming  the  paste  into  a  cir- 
cular shape  with  a  flat  bottom  and  upright  sides  like  an  ordinary  jam-pot.  The  paste 
ought  to  be  stiff  enough  to  keep  in  shape  when  the  hand  is  withdrawn  if  it  has  not 
been  pressed  too  thin  or  into  holes.  Trim  the  edges,  line  the  paste  with  paper  till 
half-baked,  then  remove  the  paper,  pour  in  the  custard  or  preserve,  and  finish  baking. 

Paste  for   Ornamenting    Tartlets. 

Rub  one  ounce  of  butter  into  four  ounces  of  flour.  Mix  it  to  a  stiff  paste  with  a 
little  cold  water,  rub  it  well  on  the  board  until  it  begins  to  string,  then  cut  it  into  four 
or  five  pieces  and  roll  them  out,  draw  it  into  fine  strings,  and  lay  them  across  the  tart- 
lets in  any  fancied  pattern. 


784  PASTES. 

Paste   for    Patties. 

Sift  one  pound  of  the  best  white  flour  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  onto  a  marble 
slab ;  mix  with  it  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  it  into  a 
stiff  paste  with  cold  water.  Squeeze  the  water  out  of  one  pound  of  butter  by  putting 
it  in  a  cloth  and  working  it  well  with  both  hands;  then  put  it  in  the  middle  of  the 
paste,  fold  the  edges  round  it,  and  roll  it  out.  Fold  the  paste  in  three,  turn  it  round 
and  roll  it  the  other  way.  Let  it  rest  for  twenty  minutes,  then  roll  it  twice  more,  and 
so  on  until  it  has  been  rolled  six  times.  Next  roll  the  paste  out  to  the  thickness  of 
one-half  inch,  and  with  a  plain  tin  cutter  two  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  cut  the 
paste  into  rounds;  the  cutter  should  be  dipped  into  hot  water  each  time  it  is  used. 
Place  the  rounds  on  a  baking-tin,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  beaten 
egg,  then  with  a  tin  cutter  about  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  cut  half  way 
through  the  center  of  each  round.  Bake  them  in  a  brisk  oven,  taking  care  not  to  let 
the  paste  brown  too  much.  When  the  patties  are  cooked,  lift  the  paste  where  the 
circle  is  marked,  that  being  to  form  the  covers,  scoop  out  some  of  the  paste  and  fill 
them  with  whatever  has  been  prepared  for  them. 


Paste    for  Oyster   Patties. 

Put  twelve  ounces  of  well-sifted  flour  in  a  basin,  and  mix  in  with  it  the  strained 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  form  a  light  dough.  Dredge  a 
marble  slab  with  flour,  put  the  dough  on  it  and  knead  it  well,  then  roll  it  out,  spread 
twelve  ounces  of  butter  over,  fold  it  again,  and  roll  out  four  times,  then  fold  it  in 
three  and  stand  it  in  a  cool  place.  In  about  two  hours'  time  roll  the  paste  out  to 
about  one-third  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  out  several  large  rounds,  and  the  same 
number  of  small  ones,  using  two  different  sized  paste  cutters,  which  should  be  dipped 
in  flour  each  time  to  prevent  their  sticking.  Lay  the  rounds  on  a  baking-tin  and 
bake  them  till  lightly  browned.  When  cooked  scoop  a  little  of  the  paste  out  of  the 
center  of  each  round,  fill  the  hollow  with  whatever  may  have  been  prepared  for  it, 
and  cover  with  the  smaller  rounds. 


Paste  for   Pies. 

Put  three  pounds  of  well-sifted  flour  on  a  board  or  table,  work  in  one  pound  of 
butter,  make  a  hollow  in  the  center,  and  work  in  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one  ounce  of 
salt,  and  a  breakfast  cupful  of  cold  water.  Should  the  paste  while  being  used  be  too 
hard  and  crack,  it  may  be  rolled  out  again  and  slightly  dampened  with  water  before 
being  worked  up.  If  preferred,  the  butter  may  be  mixed  in  with  the  liquids,  before 
being  introduced  into  the  flour,  which  must  be  well  worked  in,  adding  it  gradually. 
It  is  far  easier  to  make  this  paste  in  winter  than  in  summer. 


PASTES.  785 

Paste   for   Meat   and   Game   Pies. 

Use  eight  ounces  of  butter  to  one  pound  of  flour;  chop  one-half  the  butter  into 
the  flour,  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  enough  cold  water,  to  mix  it  to  a 
smooth  paste  just  soft  enough  to  roll  out.  If  ice-water  is  used,  the  paste  is  mixed 
with  a  knife  instead  of  the  hand,  as  it  can  be  kept  cooler,  and  will  be  lighter  and 
more  delicate.  In  making,  touch  the  paste  as  little  and  as  lightly  as  possible  with 
the  hands,  because  heating  and  pressing  heavily  upon  it  makes  it  dense  and  tough. 
After  the  paste  is  mixed  and  rolled  about  one-half  inch  thick,  dredge  it  with  flour, 
cut  half  the  remaining  butter  into  slices,  and  lay  them  on  the  paste,  leaving  a  space 
of  about  one  inch  all  around  the  edges,  dredge  the  butter  with  flour,  turn  the  edges 
in  all  round  to  enclose  the  outside  layers  of  butter,  and  then  double  the  paste,  and 
roll  it  out  about  one-half  inch  thick,  put  the  rest  of  the  butter  on  it  in  slices,  dredge 
again  with  flour,  fold  in  the  edges,  double  it,  and  roll  out  as  already  directed.  If  any 
paste  is  left  after  the  pie  is  made,  wrap  it  in  a  floured  cloth  and  keep  in  a  cool  dry 
place;  it  will  be  good  for  several  days,  and  only  requires  to  be  rolled  out  two  or  three 
times  before  using  to  make  it  quite  light. 


Paste   for   Savory   Pies. 


Boil  about  three  ounces  of  lard,  and  two  ounces  of  dripping  with  one  teacupful 
of  water.  While  this  is  hot,  mix  with  it  smooth  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  stiff 
paste.  Knead  it  well  and  beat  it  with  the  rolling-pin  till  quite  smooth.  Knead  it 
into  a  lump,  and  turn  a  pan  over  it  until  it  is  almost  cold.  Then  roll  it  to  a  proper 
thickness  on  a  floured  board  with  a  floured  rolling-pin.  Cut  out  a  piece  for  the 
bottom  of  the  pie,  a  piece  for  the  top,  and  a  long  narrow  piece  to  form  the  sides. 
Fasten  the  bottom  to  the  sides  by  brushing  egg  over  the  edges  and  then  pressing 
them  well  together,  joining  up  the  side  edges  in  the  same  way.  Fill  the  pie,  then  put 
on  the  cover,  brushing  the  edges  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  pinching  them  together. 
If  the  pie  is  made  in  a  tin  mould,  all  the  edges  must  be  fastened  together  in  just  the 
same  way.  The  tin  must  be  well  buttered  before  putting  the  paste  in,  and  when  the 
pie  is  baked  it  should  be  slipped  out  of  the  tin  and  put  back  into  the  oven  to  brown 
the  sides,  first  brushing  beaten  egg  all  over. 


Geneva    Paste. 

Rub  one  pound  of  fresh  butter  into  one  pound  of  finely-sifted  dried  flour  until 
the  butter  is  entirely  absorbed,  then  work  in  one  pound  of  sugar  and  four  ounces  of 
blanched  and  pounded  almonds,  adding  three  bitter  almonds  to  the  quantity  and  a 
little  salt.  Mix  with  sufficient  beaten  egg  to  make  a  stiff  paste.  This  is  useful  in 
making  Genevese  and  other  fancy  pastry. 


786  PASTES. 

Lard    Paste. 

Cut  some  lard  into  thin  slices  and  roll  these  in  a  little  flour;  continue  thus  until 
all  the  lard  and  flour  are  used,  then  mix  in  enough  cold  water  to  make  a  soft  paste. 
Lay  the  paste  on  a  floured  cloth  and  keep  it  in  a  cold  place  for  half  an  hour.  After 
that  put  it  on  a  floured  paste-board  and  roll  it  out  with  a  floured  rolling-pin  to  the 
thickness  of  one  inch.  Place  the  paste  again  in  a  floured  cloth  in  a  cold  place  and 
leave  it  half  an  hour  longer.  Roll  the  paste  out  very  thin,  doubling  it  over  six 
times.  The  paste  should  be  touched  as  little  as  possible  with  the  hands. 

Paste   Made   with   Cream. 

Mix  one-half  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  bicarbonate  of  soda  with  one  breakfast 
cupful  of  cream;  stir  in  gradually  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  paste.  Sprinkle  a  little 
flour  on  the  table,  and  roll  the  paste  out  on  it  to  about  one-half  inch  thick.  Cut 
about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  small  pieces  and.  put  these  on  the  paste;  sift  over  a  little 
flour,  double  the  paste  and  roll  it  out  thin.  It  is  then  ready  to  be  used. 

Puff  Paste. 

By  the  French  cook  this  is  styled  feuilletage,  and  is  prepared  as  follows:  Weigh 
out  the  flour,  previously  dried  and  shaken  through  a  sieve,  and  use  an  equal  amount  of 
the  best  fresh  butter.  In  the  summer  keep  this  butter  on  the  ice  till  wanted;  in  winter 
knead  it  in  a  cloth  to  make  it  supple.  Then  spread  the  flour  on  the  table  or  marble 
paste-slab;  make  a  bay  or  well  in  the  center.  Into  this  put  a  little  salt,  and  gradu- 
ally pour  in  water  whilst  the  flour  is  worked  in  by  a  circular  motion  of  two  fingers 
round  and  round  the  inside  of  the  well  until  sufficient  moisture  has  been  added  to 
work  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a  firm  pliant  dough.  If  this  is  well  and  correctly 
made  it  will  not  stick  either  to  the  table  or  to  the  hands.  Cover  the  paste  with  a 
cloth,  and  let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  to  settle,  but  first  be  quite  sure  that  the  paste  is 
stiff,  as  it  would  be  disadvantageous  to  work  in  more  flour  or  water  after  the  paste 
has  settled.  In  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  the  dough  will  be  ready  to  work.  Sprinkle 
the  slab  with  flour  by  means  of  a  dredger,  which  should  contain  very  dry  flour  only, 
or  the  perforations  in  the  lid  will  get  stopped  up,  place  the  paste  on  this,  and  roll  it 
out  with  a  rolling-pin,  which  may  be  either  plain  or  fitted  with  an  axle  and  two 
handles,  so  that  the  hands  remain  quiet  while  working  (either  answers  admirably). 
The  one  with  the  handles,  which  is  sometimes  preferred,  permits  the  operator  to  bear 
heavily  on  the  paste,  but  this  is  not  always  an  advantage.  Roll  out  the  paste  to  a 
square  not  more  than  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick.  Roll  out  the  butter  also  to  a 
square  shape,  and  lay  it  on  the  paste.  Fold  over  the  ends  and  then  the  sides  in  such 
a  manner  that  the  butter  is  entirely  wrapped  up.  Roll  this  out  with  the  pin,  pushing 
the  paste  forward  as  well  as  the  butter  in  its  interior;  continue  rolling  until  it  forms  a 


PASTES.  787 

long  strip,  not  more  than  one-eighth  or  one-sixth  inch  in  thickness,  preserving  the 
regularity  of  shape  as  much  as  possible.  Next  fold  it  over  in  three  layers,  and  when 
thus  folded  give  it  another  turn;  this  is  called  one  turn.  Roll  it  out  once  more  the 
same  way.  Every  time  this  process  is  repeated  adds  what  is  termed  a  turn  to  the 
paste;  the  very  most  required  at  any  time  for  the  lightest  of  French  feuilletage  being 
six  turns;  five  are  generally  recognized  as  good  enough  for  most  purposes,  and  many 
pastry  cooks  will  not  exceed  three.  A  very  famous  French  cook  advises  that  under 
all  circumstances,  whether  in  winter  or  summer,  the  paste  should  be  set  to  cool  for 
ten  minutes  between  each  two  turns.  The  greatest  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  the 
butter  from  escaping  from  the  paste.  This  happens  if  the  paste  is  too  soft,  rolled  out 
too  thin,  or  not  rolled  out  regularly  to  a  flat;  that  is,  if  it  remains  thicker  on  one  side 
than  on  the  other.  In  summer  it  is  very  difficult  to  make  a  good  paste  without  the 
help  of  ice  or  a  cool  cellar;  but  this  inconvenience  may  be  obviated  by  replacing  the 
butter  with  beef  suet.  This  suet  must  be  previously  well  picked  over,  and  then 
soaked  in  fresh  water,  well  drained,  and  then  pounded,  and  thus  made  into  a  fine, 
smooth  paste.  Should  it  require  to  be  made  more  supple  it  can  be  worked  in  the 
cloth,  as  prescribed  for  the  butter.  The  plan  of  making  puff  paste,  as  practiced  by 
the  English  professional  cooks,  differs  from  the  French  mode. 

Take  three  pounds  of  well-dried,  sifted  flour  and  the  same  quantity  of  butter; 
rub  a  fourth  of  the  butter  till  it  is  taken  up  in  the  flour,  then  mix  with  water,  adding 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  If  salted  butter  be  used,  it  must  be  washed  in  cold  water 
so  as  to  free  it  from  salt.  Let  the  paste  be  firm,  for  if  it  is  made  soft  it  will  not  be  a 
success.  When  you  have  succeeded  so  far,  roll  out  the  paste  on  a  slab  to  about  one- 
third  inch  thick,  and  spread  the  remainder  of  the  butter  over  it,  which  should  not  be 
too  hard  or  too  soft  but  spreadable.  This  done,  fold  over  and  roll  out  again;  repeat 
this  three  times,  then  roll  it  up  loosely,  cover  with  a  floured  cloth,  and  put  it  in  a 
cool  place  for  two  or  three  hours,  or  until  wanted  for  use.  You  will  understand  from 
this  that  puff  paste  consists  of  a  number  of  layers  of  butter  and  dough;  these  layers 
should  be  worked  without  breaking  through  into  each  other.  You  must,  therefore, 
use  your  rolling  pin  very  lightly,  for  if  you  use  it  too  heavily  you  will  perforate  the 
paste,  and  the  butter  will  run  out  in  cooking.  The  trimmings  of  puff  paste  or  pieces 
cut  away  should  not  be  used  again  with  the  original  mass,  as  the  cut  edges  would 
allow  the  butter  to  overrun  the  layers,  and  spoil  its  flakiness.  It  is  commonly  used 
for  making  patties,  pies,  or  decorating  tartlets,  etc.,  and  is  known  to  the  pastry  cook 
as  second  or  patten  paste.  Of  the  varieties  of  puff  paste,  the  following  may  be  con- 
sidered the  more  important: 

(i.)  Sift  two  pounds  of  very  dry  flour,  put  it  on  the  table,  make  a  hollow  in 
the  center,  th*row  in  a  little  salt,  and  a  little  piece  of  two  pounds  of  butter.  In 
making  this  paste  the  same  quantity  each  of  butter  and  flour  is  used.  Work  the 
butter  and  flour  together,  and  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  sufficient 
water  to  make  a  paste  of  the  consistency  of  the  butter.  If  the  paste  is  not  of  the 
right  consistency  the  butter  will  break  through  when  the  paste  is  turned.  When  the 


y88  PASTES. 

dough  has  been  lig.htly  worked,  mould  it  into  a  ball,  which  flatten  quickly  in  the 
middle.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  two  pounds  of  butter  on  the  table,  and  work  it 
with  a  little  water  to  extract  the  buttermilk,  then  roll  it  in  a  cloth,  and  squeeze  till 
all  the  moisture  is  out.  Flatten  the  butter,  put  it  in  the  paste,  and  fold  the  paste  well 
over  it.  Sift  a  little  flour  over  the  table,  and  roll  the  paste  out  with  a  rolling-pin 
into  a  long  strip.  Double  the  paste  in  three,  then  roll  it  out  again,  sprinkling  a  little 
flour  over  to  prevent  its  sticking.  Sprinkle  a  baking-sheet  with  flour,  double  the 
paste  in  three  folds,  put  it  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  leave  for  a  short  time  in  a  cool  tem- 
perature. Roll  the  paste  out  again  twice,  proceeding  as  before;  then  let  it  rest  again, 
and  give  it  another  two  turns,  which  will  make  six  in  all,  then  roll  it  out  to  a  long 
shape  and  fold  it  in  two.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Half  Puff  Paste.      :, 

This  is  made  as  for  puff  paste,  using  twelve  ounces  of  flour,  one-fourth  of  an 
ounce  of  salt,  ten  ounces  of  butter  and  one  teacupful  of  water,  keeping  the  paste 
very  firm. 

Puff  Paste   Made  with    Beef  Suet. 

To  prepare  puff  paste  with  beef  suet  chop  the  suet  very  fine,  put  it  in  a  mortar 
and  pound  to  a  pulp,  adding  gradually  sufficient  olive  oil  to  give  it  a  body  and  to 
make  it  as  easy  to  work  as  butter.  When  thoroughly  worked  up  mix  in  the  flour  as 
for  ordinary  puff  paste.  Lard  may  be  substituted  for  oil,  using  half  lard  and  half 
beef  suet. 

Puff  Paste  Made  with   Lard. 

To  prepare  puff  paste  with  lard  use  twelve  ounces  of  flour,  two  ounces  of  lard, 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  about  two  drachms  of  salt.  Work  these  into  a  paste,  let 
it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  then  roll  it  out,  brush  over  with  warm  lard,  fold  the  paste 
in  three,  roll  it  out  gently  again,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  and  continue  in  this 
way  till  twelve  ounces  of  lard  have  been  worked  into  the  flour.  It  is  then  ready  for 
use  in  the  ordinary  way. 

Puff  Paste  Made  with  Oil. 

Puff  paste  prepared  with  sweet-oil  is  made  in  the  same  v/ay  as  puff  paste  made 
with  lard,  using  the  same  quantity  of  oil  as  lard  and  working  it  in  in  the  same  manner. 

Rice   Paste  for  Sweets. 

Boil  one-half  pound  of  ground  rice  in  as  little  water  as  it  can  be  boiled  in  without 
burning  it,  strain  it  as  dry  as  possible,  and  beat  or  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  one  ounce 
of  butter  and  two  eggs  beaten  very  light. 


PASTES.  789 

Rice   Paste   for   Tarts. 

Sift  one-half  pound  of  ground  rice,  and  rub  it  into  one-fourth  pound  of  fresh  but- 
ter; mix  and  knead  this  into  a  little  paste  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water. 
Sprinkle  flour  over  a  paste-board  and  rolling-pin,  and  roll  out  the  paste  fairly  thin. 
Chop  one-fourth  pound  of  butter  into  small  bits,  and  stick  them  all  over  the  paste. 
After  this  fold,  and  roll  it  out  again  three  times,  each  time  sprinkling  flour  over  the 
paste  and  under  it,  all  over  the  paste-board  and  rolling-pin.  Cover  the  tarts,  brush 
the  paste  over  with  well-beaten  whites  of  eggs,  sprinkle  it  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
bake. 

Short   Paste. 

This,  as  has  already  been  explained,  differs  from  puff  paste  in  that  the  butter  or 
other  fat  is  worked  in  the  flour  before  wetting.  In  other  particulars,  one  short  paste 
may  differ  from  another  according  to  the  fancy  of  the  cook. 

Short    Paste   for   Savory    Pies. 


/ 


Sift  one  pound  of  dried  flour  onto  the  slab  or  table,  collect  it  altogether  in  a 
heap,  make  a  hole  in  the  center.  In  this  hollow,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  the 
yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs.  Put  in  a  small  stewpan  one  teacupful  of  water  and  four 
ounces  of  fresh  butter;  set  this  over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is  melted,  then  pour  it, 
little  by  little,  into  the  hollow  in  the  flour,  and  work  the  flour  in  with  two  fingers  until 
it  is  all  taken  up  and  worked  into  a  stiff  paste;  work  this  on  the  slab  with  both  hands 
till  it  is  well  kneaded,  then  roll  it  into  a  ball,  wrap  it  up  in  a  floured  cloth,  and  let  it 
stand  for  two  or  three  hours  in  a  cool  place;  by  this  time  the  dough  will  have  set  and 
be  ready  for  use.  The  rolling  out  should  be  done  lightly;  any  heavy  handling  spoils 
the  crust. 

Transparent   Paste   for   Tartlets. 

Warm  twelve  ounces  of  butter  without  oiling  it;  when  nearly  cold  again,  stir  in 
one  beaten  egg,  and  continue  beating  for  a  little  while;  sift  in  with  the  butter  and  egg 
one  pound  of  the  finest  dried  white  flour,  and  make  a  thin  paste  with  it.  Butter  some 
patty-pans  or  tart-dishes,  line  them  with  the  paste,  brush  over  a  little  water  and  sift 
some  fine  sugar  over;  bake  them  at  once  in  a  moderate  oven. 


Bakery  and  Breakfast  Dishes. 

Butter   Biscuits. 

Mix  up  half  a  pound  of  butter  with  two  pounds  of  sifted  flour,  adding  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt;  moisten  to  a  stiff  dough  with  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  mix  k  well. 
Remove  the  dough  from  the  pan  and  put  it  on  a  floured  paste-board  and  knead  thor- 
oughly; roll  it  into  a  large  thick  sheet  and  beat  hard  on  both  sides  with  a  rolling-pin 
or  break  it.  Then  cut  it  out  into  small,  round,  thick  cakes  with  a  tin  cutter,  beat 
each  cake  on  both  sides,  place  them  in  buttered  pans  and  bake  to  a  light  brown  in  a 
slow  oven. 

Buttermilk   Biscuits. 

Sift  into  a  quart  of  flour  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  adding  a  little 
salt;  make  a  hollow  in  the  center  of  the  flour,  pour  in  a  pint  of  buttermilk  and  form 
into  a  dough,  using  care  in  rolling  it  out  to  make  it  as  soft  as  possible,  pressing  per- 
fectly flat  with  the  hands  to  knead  it.  Let  it  lay  for  five  or  six  minutes  to  allow  the 
soda  to  dissolve  and  then  knead  it  again.  Cut  into  shape  with  a  cutter  and  dock, 
baking  on  a  greased  baking-sheet  in  a  moderate  oven  until  done. 


Biscuits  for   Coffee. 

Use  a  level  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  with  each  half  pound  of  flour  requisite 
and  a  little  sugar  and  butter,  making  a  rather  stiff  paste  by  adding  some  egg  beaten 
up  in  a  little  milk.  Work  it  well  until  quite  smooth  and  then  roll  it  out  thin,  cut  it 
into  biscuits  three  inches  long  by  an  inch  and  a  half  wide,  perforate  the  tops  with  a 
docker  and  place  in  a  moderately  quick  oven,  baking  to  a  yellow  color.  When  done 
remove,  and  serve  when  cold. 

Honey   Biscuits. 

Place  in  a  basin  half  a  pound  each  of  cornmeal  and  honey,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
candied  orange  flowers  and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  pounded  coriander  seeds.  Mix 
these  well  until  they  form  a  stiff  paste,  divide  into  proportions,  roll  them  into  balls, 
then  with  a  rolling-pin  roll  out  to  thin  oval  shapes  and  dock.  Butter  a  baking-tin, 
dredge  flour  over  it,  lay  the  biscuits  on  the  tin  a  short  distance  from  each  other,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  cooked  leave  them  until  cold  and  if  to  be  kept  put  them 
into  tin  canisters. 

790 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  791 

Lemon    Biscuits. 

Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into  three  and  one-half  pounds  of  flour,  mix  in  one  and 
one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  sugar,  and,  when  quite  smooth,  add  six  or  eight  drops 
of  lemon  essence,  one  teacupful  of  honey-water,  and  enough  milk  to  form  a  thick 
dough.  Divide  the  dough,  after  breaking  it  smooth,  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  flatten,  cut  out  with  a  biscuit-cutter,  place  the  biscuits  on  baking-sheets,  and 
bake  till  colored  lightly  in  a  moderate  oven.  Leave  the  biscuits  till  cold,  and  keep 
them  in  a  tin  canister. 

Milk   Biscuits. 

Rub  one  pound  of  salted  butter  into  four  quarts  of  the  best  wheat  flour  until 
quite  smooth,  add  one  pinch  of  salt,  and  stir  the  mixture  to  a  paste  with  milk. 
Divide  the  dough  into  small  equal  portions,  shape  them  into  balls,  prick  the  tops  with 
a  fork,  put  them  into  buttered-pans,  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  for  about  an 
hour.  When  very  light,  place  the  biscuits  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake.  When  crisp 
and  cooked,  take  the  biscuits  out  of  the  tins,  and  leave  them  until  cold.  If  they  are 
to  be  kept  for  any  time,  they  should  be  put  into  biscuit-tins. 

Oatmeal    Biscuits. 

Mix  with  one  pound  of  oatmeal  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
baking-powder,  rub  in  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and,  when  it  is  smooth,  stir  in  enough 
warm  water  to  knead  the  whole  into  a  paste,  turn  onto  a  table,  and  roll  it  out  very 
thin.  Cut  the  paste  into  rounds,  lay  them  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  bake  in  the  oven. 
When  they  are  cooked,  leave  the  biscuits  -until  they  are  cold,  then  pack  them  in 
biscuit-tins,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  cupboard.  They  are  served  at  luncheon  very 
often. 

Tea   Biscuits. 

Mix  in  the  following  proportions  the  desired  quantity:  Rub  six  ounces  of  lard 
and  a  similar  quantity  of  butter  into  five  and  a  half  pounds  of  flour;  make  a  bay,  and 
mix  in  two  pounds  of  sifted  sugar,  and  mix  into  a  dough  with  one  pint  of  milk  and  a 
half  pint  of  water;  mix  in  with  the  sugar  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  and, 
with  the  water,  a  teaspoonful  of  hydrochloric  acid.  Allow  the  dough  to  become  quite 
stiff,  and  break  well  with  the  biscuit-break;  roll  out  thin,  and  cut  into  pieces  with  a 
round  or  oval  cutter.  Cover  over,  and  leave  in  a  warm  place  to  rise;  when  it  becomes 
puffy,  place  on  buttered  baking-sheets  in  a  quick  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

Wine   Biscuits. 

Slightly  warm  four  ounces  of  butter  and  beat  it  to  a  cream  with  a  wineglassful 
of  wine.  Mix  eight  ounces  of  flour  with  eight  ounces  of  crushed-sugar,  then  mix  it 


792  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

to  a  paste  with  the  wine  and  butter,  stirring  in  also  four  well-beaten  eggs.  Sprinkle 
a  few  caraway-seeds  into  the  mixture,  work  it  till  quite  smooth,  then  turn  it  out  on  a 
floured-table  arid  roll  it  out  as  thin  as  possible.  With  a  round  tin-cutter  one  and  one- 
half  inches  in  diameter,  cut  some  biscuits  out  of  the  flat  of  paste.  Put  the  biscuits 
on  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  brush  the  tops  over  with  beaten  white  of  egg,  dust  some 
powdered-sugar  over  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  When 
cold,  take  them  off  the  baking-sheet,  and  serve  in  a  glass  dish.  Keep  them  in  a  bis- 
cuit-tin in  a  dry  place. 

American   Bread. 

Place  in  an  earthen  vessel  which  is  wider  at  the  top  than  at  the  bottom,  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  flour  and  half  a  pint  of  fresh  brewers'  yeast,  mixing  it  with  a  pint  of 
lukewarm  water,  when  it  may  be  set  one  side  for  three  or  four  hours  until  it  rises  and 
falls  again.  Place  a  little  salt  in  a  couple  of  quarts  of  water  and  mix  it  well  with  the 
above  and  add  about  nine  pounds  of  flour,  work  together  well  and  leave  it  until  light 
when  it  may  be  shaped  into  loaves.  It  should  first  be  put  into  a  hot  oven,  allowing 
it  to  cool  afterwards. 

American   Brown    Bread. 

Mix  together  two  parts  flour  and  one  part  each  of  corn-flour,  rye-meal  and 
molasses,  beat  thoroughly  and  add  a  well-beaten  egg;  mix  and  pour  into  a  buttered- 
tin  holding  about  two  quarts  and  let  it  steam  in  a  slow  oven  for  four  hours,  and  then 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  half  an  hour. 


Take  an  equal  quantity  of  corn-flour  and  rye-meal,  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of 
pumpkin,  a  little  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  half  a  cupful  of  yeast 
and  a  similar  quantity  of  molasses,  stirring  in  some  warm  water  until  it  forms  a  paste. 
Have  ready  two  well-buttered  iron-pans  and  pour  in  this  mixture,  smooth  the  top 
with  the  hand,  and  when  it  has  risen,  bake  in  an  oven  quickly. 

Corn    Bread. 

Scald  the  desired  amount  of  white  cornmeal  and  mix  with  it  an  egg  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  lard  to  each  breakfast  cupful  of  meal  used  and  a  little  milk 
or  cold  water,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  hot  water,  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
and  a  little  salt,  beat  all  together  thoroughly;  pour  this  batter  into  a  hot,  ungreased 
pan  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  quickly. 

Dyspepsia   Bread. 

Mix  the  desired  quantity  of  unsifted  wheat  meal  with  some  soft  warm  water,  with 
a  quarter  of  that  amount  of  molasses  and  fresh  yeast,  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of 
ammonia,  and  shape  into  loaves  and  bake  for  an  hour. 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  793 

Egg   Bread. 

Take  an  equal  amount  each  of  rice  and  hominy,  mash  them  .well  together  and 
add  the  yolks  of  some  eggs  well  beaten  with  a  little  flour  and  some  sweet  milk,  with 
a  lump  of  butter.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  well  and,  just  before  forming  into 
loaves,  add  them.  Bake  until  done  in  a  quick  oven. 

Gluten   Bread. 

Mix  a  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh,  moist  gluten,  three  and  a  quarter  drachms  of 
bicarbonate  of  ammonia,  a  little  salt  and  some  powdered  caraway  and  four  and  a  half 
ounces  of  wheaten  flour,  an  ounce  and  a  quarter  of  powdered  bran  and  four  ounces  of 
salt  butter.  Mix  well  and  place  in  flat  tin  pans;  bake  on  a  moderately  heated  hearth. 

Graham    Flour    Bread. 

Mix  six  breakfast  cupfuls  of  Graham  flour  with  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  half  a 
cupful  of  yeast,  and  work  to  a  dough,  adding  a  pint  of  scalded  milk  (cool),  and 
make  a  little  softer  than  white  bread.  Raise  till  light  and  then  stir  down,  pour  it  into 
well-greased  pans,  or,  if  stiff  enough,  shape  into  loaves,  let  it  rise  again  and  bake  a 
little  longer  in  a  slightly  cooler  oven  than  that  used  for  white  bread.  Graham  flour 
rises  more  quickly  than  white  bread. 

Household   Bread. 

Mix  in  following  proportions:  Ten  pounds  of  best  flour  into  half  a  gallon  of 
water;  when  well  mixed  add  half  a  pint  of  yeast,  knead,  cover  it  over  and  place  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise.  Make  it  into  loaves  or  rolls  and  bake. 

Bread   Made   with   Potatoes. 

Mash  some  boiled  potatoes  while  hot,  adding  a  little  tepid  water  and  an  ounce  or 
so  of  German  yeast  and  some  flour.  Let  this  ferment  in  a  warm  place  for  six  hours, 
and  place  in  a  pan  with  flour  and  a  little  salt,  mixing  the  whole  into  a  dough.  Stand 
for  another  three  hours  to  rise,  make  into  loaves  and  bake  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Oatmeal   Bread. 

Rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  and  when  it 
is  smooth  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a 
pound  of  oatmeal.  When  they  are  thoroughly  mixed  make  a  well  in  the  center,  in 
which  place  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brewers'  yeast,  cover  this  over  with  a  cloth  and 
stand  to  rise  for  an  hour.  Afterward  work  the  mixture  up  with  enough  warm  milk 


794  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

to  form  a  dough,  divide  it  into  portions  and  mould  it  into  cakes.  When  they  are 
cooked  split  the  cakes  open,  butter  them,  close  them  again,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  quickly. 

Pulled   Bread. 

Pull  the  pieces  of  crumb  from  a  loaf  of  bread  and  place  in  the  oven  to  brown. 
These  may  be  stored  in  tins,  but  are  considered  better  when  quite  fresh. 

Brioche. 

Prepare  a  sponge  of  German  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  mix  it 
with  enough  flour  to  form  a  batter.  When  it  has  risen  to  twice  its  original  size,  place 
it  one  side  and  put  on  a  paste-board  a  pound  of  flour,  make  a  bay  in  the  center  and  in 
it  put  a  pound  of  warmed  fresh  butter,  a  teacupful  of  milk,  ten  eggs,  a  little  salt  and 
the  sponge,  and  work  together,  adding  flour  as  needed.  Place  it  in  a  basin  with  a 
cover  and  stand  it  in  a  warm  temperature  for  three  hours.  Then  roll  out  and  fold 
three  times  in  succession;  remove  about  a  quarter  of  the  paste,  making  the  remainder 
round  and  slightly  flattened  at  the  top,  wet  the  bottom  of  the  smaller  piece  of  paste, 
making  a  ball  of  that  also,  flatten  it  and  put  on  top  of  the  larger  one;  then  glaze  over 
with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  set  on  a  buttered  tin  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Brioches    Flutes. 

Make  the  brioche  paste  and  lay  it  on  a  floured  board  and  cut  it  into  a  dozen  equal 
pieces.  Roll  each  one  separately  with  the  hands  until  about  ten  inches  in  length, 
rounding  into  shape.  Place  on  a  baking-dish  and  leave  in  a  hot  closet  for  ten  min- 
utes to  rise,  then  take  out  and  glaze  lightly  with  beaten  eggs,  sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar  and  put  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin. 


Brioche   Ring. 


Dissolve  in  a  teacupful  of  warm  water  a  half  ounce  of  German  yeast  and  mix 
into  a  stiff  paste  with  about  half  a  pound  of  flour;  put  in  a  pan  with  a  little  warm 
water  on  the  bottom  to  prevent  sticking,  cover  and  place  in  a  warm  place  to  rise. 
Mix  together  half  a  pound  of  flour,  about  eight  ounces  of  butter,  three  eggs,  a 
little  salt  and  sugar,  and  work  thoroughly  with  the  hands  for  twelve  minutes  or 
so;  after  which  add  three  eggs  gradually  when  quite  smooth  and  soft  and  work 
in  the  dough  for  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Pull  into  small  pieces,  put  in  a  basin 
and  let  it  rise  in  a  warm  temperature  to  nearly  double  its  original  size;  then  beat 
it  well  with  floured  hands  on  a  floured  table,  flatten  and  fold  it  several  times  and  put 
it  in  a  basin  in  a  cool  place  for  several  hours.  Then  roll  it  once  more  and  again 
place  in  a  cool  place  for  one  hour.  When  quite  firm  shape  into  a  ball,  place  on  a 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  795 

baking-sheet,  flatten  it  and  form  a  hollow  in  the  center,  making  a  ring;  glaze  it  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

Buns. 

Mix  half  a  pound  each  of  butter  and  sugar  with  three  pounds  of  sifted  flour, 
rubbing  them  together  thoroughly,  and  add  a  pound  of  currants  washed  and  dried, 
some  caraway  seed  and  three  ounces  of  yeast  and  set  the  paste  to  rise  for  half  an 
hour.  Mix  well  and  let  the  dough  stand  again  until  it  is  well  risen;  then  roll  out 
and  shape  into  small  cakes,  place  these  on  greased  baking-sheets  in  a  hot  oven,  and 
bake  until  done. 

Hot   Cross   Buns. 

Add  to  a  quart  of  warmed  new  milk  half  a  pound  of  flour,  a  couple  of  eggs,  and 
dissolve  in  it  two  ounces  of  German  yeast.  Stir  this  mixture  well  together,  cover 
over  the  pan  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  After  it  has  risen  and  again  fallen 
mix  with  it  four  pounds  of  flour  previously  rubbed  with  a  pound  of  butter,  a  half 
pound  more  of  the  sugar  and  half  an  ounce  of  mixed  spice,  using  enough  flour  to 
make  a  stiff  dough;  then  set  it  once  again  in  a  warm  place  to  rise,  having  it  well  cov- 
ered with  a  cloth.  When  it  has  risen  to  nearly  double  its  original  proportions  shape 
with  the  hands  into  balls  and  place  them  on  a  buttered  baking-tin,  leaving  space 
enough  between  them  to  prevent  their  becoming  joined.  Set  them  one  side  for  a 
few  minutes  and  then  cut  across  on  the  tops  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  brush  over  with 
a  little  milk  and  again  set  to  one  side.  After  the  lapse  of  a  few  minutes  more  place 
in  a  hot  oven  and  bake.  When  they  are  done  brush  the  tops  with  milk,  and  serve. 


Light   Tea   Buns. 


One  pound  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  an  equal 
amount  of  tartaric  acid  should  be  placed  together  in  a  bowl,  mixed  thoroughly  and 
then  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  then  rub  in  a  couple  of  ounces  of  butter,  until  it  is  quite 
absorbed,  add  a  little  sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants,  well  washed  and 
dried,  a  teaspoonful  of  caraway  seed,  and  then  beat  an  egg  into  a  pint  of  milk,  mix 
the  flour  into  it.  Butter  some  baking-tins,  place  the  dough  on  them  in  small  lumps, 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Cornmeal    Crackers. 

Put  two  pounds  of  cornmeal  into  a  basin  and  work  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
warmed  fat  or  butter ;  then  mix  in  one  pound  of  sugar,  pour  in  gradually  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  milk,  and  add  enough  wheat-flour  to  form  a  stiff  dough.  After  knead- 
ing it  well,  allow  it  to  stand  for  two  or  three  hours  in  a  warm  place.  Take  up  small 
pieces  of  the  dough  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  shape  them  like  shells,  brown  them  in 
boiling  fat,  and  serve  on  a  dish  with  a  folded  napkin,  or  ornamental  paper. 


796  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

Graham    Flour   Crackers. 

Mix  one  quart  of  graham  flour  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  Indian  meal  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  in  sufficient  water  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Roll  this  out 
very  thin,  cut  it  into  squares,  and  lay  them  on  a  baking-sheet;  dock  them  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven.  The  crackers  may  be  sweetened  if  desired. 

Lemon-Flavored    Crackers. 

Mix  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  butter  with  about  thirteen  pounds  of  flour, 
make  a  bay,  and  stir  in  two  and  one-fourth  pounds  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  ammonia, 
one-fourth  ounce  of  essence  of  lemon,  and  three  pints  of  water.  Work  well  together, 
roll  out  the  paste,  cut  it  into  small  rounds,  put  them  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Remove  when  done,  and  use  when  cold.  The  quantity  given  is 
useful  for  confectioners. 

Soda    Crackers. 

These  are  made  by  adding  from  one  to  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bicarbonate  of  soda 
to  either  of  the  foregoing  recipes,  or  in  the  following  way:  Make  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  flour  into  a  very  stiff  dough  with  sour  milk  in  which  one  saltspoonful  of 
bicarbonate  of  soda  has  been  dissolved;  work  into  this  one  dessertspoonful  of  lard 
mixed  with  butter;  beat  it  well  and  roll  it  out  very  thin.  Prick  well  with  a  fork  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 


Almond    Cracklings. 


Take  six  parts  of  blanched  almonds  to  four  of  ground  almonds,  together  with 
sifted  sugar  equal  to  the  quantity  of  almonds  used,  the  whites  of  some  eggs  and  add 
a  few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla.  Mix  them  together  in  a  basin  and  «se  a  dessert- 
spoon to  lay  out  pieces  the  size  of  a  walnut  upon  a  sheet  of  paper,  spread  or  baking- 
plates.  The  cracklings  should  be  placed  an  inch  and  a  half  apart  and  be  slightly 
spread  out  with  the  tip  of  the  finger  dipped  in  water.  The  circular  form  may  be 
preserved,  and  quarter  of  an  inch  is  sufficient  thickness.  Bake  until  of  a  light-brown 
color  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 


Philadelphia    Cracknels. 


Blanch  one-half  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  put  them  in  a  mortar,  pound  and  mix 
in  six  well-beaten  eggs,  one  at  a  time.  Warm  slightly  one  pound  of  butter  and  stir 
it  well  into  one  pound  of  caster-sugar;  grate  the  yellow  rind  of  two  lemons,  add  them 
to  the  butter  and  sugar  and  then  mix  the  whole  in  with  the  pounded  almonds.  Sift 
one  pound  of  flour  onto  a  paste-board,  then  mix  in  with  it  the  almond  paste  and  knead 
it  well.  Dredge  a  little  flour  over  the  paste  and  roll  it  out,  cut  into  any  desired 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  797 

shapes,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  and 
sprinkle  over  with  caster-sugar.  Place  the  cracknels  on  a  buttered  baking-tin  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  till  lightly  browned,  then  remove.  Care  must  be  ex- 
ercised to  see  that  they  do  not  burn. 

Crumpets. 

Put  two  ounces  of  flour  in  a  basin;  dissolve  one  ounce  of  German  yeast  in  one 
quart  of  warm  milk,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  when  the  yeast  is  dissolved, 
mix  the  flour  with  the  milk;  when  it  is  quite  smooth,  throw  a  cloth  over  the  pan  and 
let  the  batter  rise  in  a  warm  place,  this  will  take  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Place  in  the  oven,  until  quite  hot,  a  stone  slab  which  should  be  about  one  inch  thick 
and  the  size  of  an  ordinary  baking-sheet;  when  the  slab  is  hot,  oil  it  with  butter,  put 
some  tin  hoops  also  oiled  in  rows  onto  it;  take  out  carefully  large  spoonfuls  of  the 
batter  and  put  one  in  each  hoop;  shut  the  oven  quickly  and  bake  the  crumpets  in  a 
sharp  heat.  When  they  are  done  on  one  side,  remove  the  hoops  and  turn  the  crumpets 
over  that  they  may  bake  on  the  other  side. 

Flannel  Crumpets. 

Put  one  pound  of  sifted  flour  into  a  pan,  mix  into  it  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and 
put  it  in  front  of  the  fire;  warm  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  with  it  mix  the  flour  into  a 
smooth  batter.  Beat  up  two  eggs  well,  and  stir  them  into  three  dessertspoonfuls  of 
fresh  yeast,  or  two  dessertspoonfuls  of  dissolved  German  yeast,  beat  the  mixed  yeast 
and  eggs  into  the  batter.  If  the  batter  is  stiff  add  a  little  more  milk.  Cover  over 
the  pan  and  set  it  near  the  fire  until  it  rises  well;  then  pour  a  ladleful  of  it  onto  a  hot 
and  greased  baking-iron  and  bake  slowly.  When  one  side  is  done,  turn  and  do  the 
other  side.  Butter  the  crumpets,  cut,  and  serve  hot. 

Gluten  Gems. 

Put  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  gluten  into  a  basin,  mix  into  it  one  egg,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder,  and 
make  it  into  a  light  paste  with  one  pint  of  milk  or  water.  Put  the  mixture  into  well- 
buttered  small  tins;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Wheatmeal  Gems. 

Put  two  and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  fine,  granulated  wheat  into  a  basin 
with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  in  gradually  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  and 
one  breakfast  cupful  of  water.  Beat  the  batter  as  long  and  as  quickly  as  possible. 
Butter  some  iron  gem-pans,  make  them  very  hot,  and  fill  them  quickly  with  the  batter, 
beating  it  briskly  several  times  during  the  turning;  place  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and 
bake.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


798  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

Muffins. 

f 

Pour  into  a  basin  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  that  has  been  boiled,  and  mix  in 

two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one  half  teacupful  of  yeast,  adding  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  light  batter.  Place 
the  basin  in  front  of  the  fire  in  order  that  the  batter  may  rise,  leave  it  there  for  about 
six  hours,  then  put  in  one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  warmed  butter,  and  thoroughly 
mix  together.  Have  in  readiness  some  muffin-rings,  fill  them  two-thirds  full  of  the 
batter,  let  them  rise  again  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven 
until  done.  They  may  also  be  baked  in  muffin  rings  on  a  griddle,  in  which  case  the 
melted  butter  must  be  added  at  the  beginning,  and  the  rings  and  griddle  well 
greased.  Take  up  a  spoonful  of  the  batter  without  allowing  any  of  the  air  bubbles  to 
escape,  fill  up  the  rings,  and  when  the  muffins  are  cooked,  browned,  and  have  well 
risen,  turn  the  muffin  with  the  ring  and  brown  on  the  opposite  side.  They  should  be 
pulled  apart,  and  not  cut  when  required  for  use. 

Muffins,    French   Style. 

Dissolve  a  medium-sized  cake  of  yeast  in  warm  water,  put  one  ounce  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan  with  one-half  pint  of  milk,  and  warm;  beat  four  eggs  until  they  are 
frothy,  then  stir  them  in  with  the  milk.  Mix  the  yeast  with  the  eggs  and  milk,  and 
stir  in  gradually  one  quart  of  flour.  Butter  or  lard  some  muffin  rings,  and  set  them 
on  a  greased  baking-dish,  pour  some  of  the  batter  into  each,  and  set  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise.  When  well  risen,  bake  the  muffins  lightly  in  a  moderate  oven.  If  they 
are  to  be  served  hot  with  butter  inside  them,  they  should  be  pulled  asunder,  as  cutting 
them  with  a  knife  will  make  them  heavy. 

Rice  Muffins. 

Put  one  quart  of  flour  into  a  basin,  mix  in  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  bi- 
carbonate of  soda,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar;  then  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  sifted  crushed  loaf-sugar,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  into  a 
basin.  Stir  in  by  degrees  two  eggs  beaten  up  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk,  and 
work  well  until  the  paste  is  light  and  smooth.  Then  add  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of 
cold  boiled  rice.  Turn  the  preparation  into  well-buttered  tins,  place  them  in  the  oven 
and  bake.  When  done,  take  them  out,  and  serve  them  either  hot  or  cold. 

Rye  Muffins. 

Put  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  sifted  rye-meal  into  a  large  bowl,  and  add  an  equal 
quantity  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream 
of  tartar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  all  rubbed 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 


799 


together  through  a  sieve.  Beat  thoroughly  two  eggs,  mix  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
milk,  stir  this  into  the  dry  mixture,  and  work  it  to  a  rather  stiff  paste.  Dip  a  table- 
spoon in  cold  milk,  fill  it  with  the  batter,  drop  it  into  boiling  fat  in  a  fryingpan,  and 
fry  for  about  ten  minutes.  Take  out  the  muffins  as  they  are  done,  drain  them,  place 
them  on  a  napkin  spread  over  a  dish,  and  serve.  They  may  also  be  made  with  one 
and  one-half  breakfast  cupfuls  of  rye-meal  and  flour  in  equal  quantities. 

Toasted    Muffins. 

Take  a  quantity  of  muffins,  pull  open  the  side  (never  cut  them),  and  toast  them 
before  a  clear  fire.  When  done,  pull  them  apart,  when  both  halves  should  be  of  an 
equal  thickness.  Put  a  little  butter  on  each  piece,  close  them  together  again,  place 
them  on  a  hot  plate  with  a  cover,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  serve  very  hot. 

American    Rolls. 

Place  the  desired  amount  of  sifted  flour  in  a  deep  bowl,  make  a  hollow  in  the 
middle,  and  put  in  some  lukewarm  milk,  a  little  butter  dissolved  in  the  milk,  a  little 
salt  and  sugar  and  two  gills  of  yeast,  mix  in  enough  flour  to  make  a  firm,  smooth 
batter,  cover  the  bowl,  and  put  it  in  a  warm  place  until  the  batter  is  light  and  foamy, 
then  mix  in  some  more  flour,  knead  the  dough  for  five  minutes,  again  cover  it,  and 
let  it  stand  until  twice  its  original  size.  When  the  dough  is  light,  roll  and  cut  into 
thick  rounds,  set  two  together,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  browned. 

Butter   Rolls  for  Tea. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  light  bread  dough  into  a  basin,  mix  in  a  little  sugar,  a  lump 
of  butter,  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  half  a  teacupful  of  cream,  together  with  some  flour. 
Let  it  rise  in  a  warm  temperature  for  a  couple  of  hours,  then  knead  well  on  a  floured 
table  for  several  minutes  until  the  dough  is  full  of  air  bubbles  and  of  a  light  and 
silky  appearance.  Make  into  round  balls,  and  when  all  are  finished,  lay  them  flat, 
brush  half  of  them  with  melted  butter,  and  put  the  other  half  on  top,  press  in  the 
center,  and  brush  over  the  surfaces  with  melted  butter,  setting  them  one  side  to  rise 
again.  Then  put  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  them  for  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
utes; take  out,  cut  into  halves,  butter  them  inside,  and  serve  hot. 

French  Rolls. 

Mix  a  quart  of  flour  with  a  little  salt  and  two  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  lard  and 
two  of  yeast,  with  enough  milk  to  make  a  good  dough,  work  it  well,  and  set  out  to 
rise  for  the  night.  In  the  morning,  work  it  thoroughly  again  and  form  into  rolls;  let 
these  rise  again,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


8oo  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

Milk  Rolls. 

Scald  one-half  pint  of  milk  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  then  let  it  cool,  and  when 
cold,  stir  into  it  one-fourth  pound  of  flour  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar  mixed  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  yeast.  Put  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  flour  and  a  very  little 
salt  into  a  basin,  make  a  hollow  in  the  center,  and  pour  in  the  mixture.  Cover,  and 
let  it  stand  in  a  moderately-warm  place  all  night.  The  next  day,  work  in  one  ounce 
of  warm  butter,  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  six  hours  in  a  warm  place.  Form  the  dough 
into  oblong  rolls,  lay  them  in  a  baking-tin  far  enough  apart  so  they  will  not  run 
together,  and  let  them  stand  for  three  hours  longer,  then  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven, 
and  glaze  with  the  white  of  an  egg. 

Tea   or   Breakfast    Rolls. 

Sift  out  a  pound  of  flour  on  a  table  and  rub  into  it  four  ounces  of  butter ;  make 
a  hollow  in  the  center,  work  in  one  egg  and  a  tablespoonful  of  yeast  dissolved  in  a 
little  warmed  milk  ;  set  to  rise  in  a  warm  place.  Then  form  a  light  dough  and  let  it 
rise  once  again,  in  front  of  the  fire;  shape  into  rolls,  place  in  front  of  the  fire  again 
for  ten  minutes  or  so,  brush  them  over  with  egg,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

Vienna   Rolls. 

Dissolve  a  cupful  of  German  yeast  in  a  quart  of  lukewarm  milk,  stirring  in  a 
pound  of  fine  flour,  and  allow  it  to  sponge;  then  add  a  little  salt,  moist  sugar,  and 
make  into  a  stiff  dough;  allow  it  to  rise  for  four  hours,  and  then  work  it  well  on  a 
table  or  board  rolling  it  out  to  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  cut  into 
strips  about  six  inches  in  width;  these  should  be  cut  into  long  triangles  not  very  wide 
at  the  base.  Roll  them  up  commencing  at  the  bottom,  and  the  top  of  the  triangle 
will  come  in  the  center  of  the  roll.  Roll  a  little  with  the  hands  and  then  place  in  a 
baking-dish,  and  brush  it  over  with  melted  lard  or  butter.  Let  it  rise  on  the  pan  for 
half  an  hour,  and  then  bake  for  ten  minutes  or  until  it  has  become  lightly  colored. 

Oatmeal   Wafers. 

Mix  a  small  quantity  of  salt  into  eight  ounces  of  oatmeal  flour,  and  make  it  into 
a  dough  by  adding  one  teacupful  of  boiling  water,  Turn  it  onto  a  board  well 
sprinkled  with  meal,  knead  it  slightly,  roll  it  out  as  thin  as  possible,  cut  it  into  shapes, 
brown  first  one  side  and  then  the  other,  and  when  they  are  crisp  they  are  ready 
for  use. 

Graham    Flour   Wafers. 

Take  two  breakfast  cupfuls  each  of  graham  and  wheat  flour,  put  into  a  basin  and 
rub  one  and  a  half  teacupfuls  of  butter  into  it;  when  quite  smooth,  add  a  saltspoonful 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  801 

of  salt  and  three-quarters  of  a  breakfast  cupful  of  sugar,  stirring  in  gradually  sufficient 
water  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Sprinkle  some  flour  over  the  table,  place  the  dough 
on  it,  roll  it  out  very  thin,  and  then  cut  it  into  squares.  Butter  a  baking-sheet,  lay 
the  squares  of  dough  on  it,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Zweibach. 

Beat  six  eggs  together  with  three  ounces  of  powdered  sugar;  mix  one-fourth 
pint  of  fresh  yeast  in  one-half  pint  of  slightly  warmed  milk,  then  add  one-fourth 
pound  of  warmed  butter.  Stir  in  gradually  with  the  above  ingredients  sufficient  flour 
to  form  a  stiff  paste,  stirring  it  continually  and  mixing  it  very  smoothly.  Place  a 
cloth  over  the  pan  and  place  it  in  a  warm  temperature  until  the  dough  has  risen  to 
twice  its  original  height.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  the  dough  and  spread  it  well 
with  the  hands;  it  should  not  be  too  stiff.  Divide  this  into  several  small  portions, 
and  shape  them  into  long  and  rather  narrow  cakes  about  one  inch  in  thickness. 
Place  the  Zweibach  on  a  buttered  baking-tin,  brush  them  over  with  a  paste-brush 
dipped  in  milk,  and  bake  them.  When  cooked,  leave  the  cakes  until  the  following 
day,  then  split  them  open,  lay  them  out  flat,  the  crust  part  underneath,  and  stand 
them  in  a  moderate  oven  again  until  yellow  and  crisp.  These  cakes  may  be  eaten 
with  butter  while  hot,  if  liked,  or  left  until  cold,  and  eaten  as  dry  as  a  biscuit. 

Breakfast    Cakes. 

Dissolve  in  half  a  pint  of  warm  milk  half  an  ounce  of  German  yeast,  and  stir  in 
enough  flour  to  make  a  batter;  stand  to  rise,  and  then  warm  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  mixing  it  with  a  little  milk  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  together  with  the  yolks 
of  eight  eggs;  beat  up  well  and  make  into  a  dough,  with  the  remainder  of  two  pounds 
of  flour,  knead  lightly  and  form  into  cakes  about  two  inches  in  thickness,  place  them 
in  well-buttered  hoops,  laying  the  hoops  on  greased  baking-sheets,  and  when  the 
dough  is  nicely  risen,  place  in  a  warm  oven  and  bake.  When  cooked,  cut  into  thick 
slices,  and  butter. 

Buckwheat    Cakes. 

Heat  a  pint  of  water,  add  half  a  pint  of  buckwheat  flour  and  a  teacupful  of  yeast, 
and  let  it  stand  for  several  hours  to  sponge.  Then  add  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of 
melted  lard,  the  same  quantity  of  syrup,  a  little  salt,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Make  into 
thin  cakes  and  bake  on  a  griddle. 

Coffee   Cakes. 

Boil  until  soft  one  pound  of  rice,  mixing  with  it  two  pounds  of  flour  and  half  a 
pound  of  fine  cornmeal,  a  teacupful  of  fresh  yeast,  and  moisten  with  cold  water.  Let 
the  dough  rise  over  night,  then  make  into  small  cakes  and  bake  on  a  well-buttered 
baking-sheet. 


8o2  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

Cornmeal    Butter   Cakes. 

Place  one  pound  of  cornmeal  in  a  basin  with  one-half  pound  of  wheat-flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  and  one  pinch  of  salt.  Stir  slowly  into  the  above  in- 
gredients one  quart  of  milk,  or  milk  reduced  with  water,  and  then  add  one  teacupful 
of  melted  lard.  When  well  mixed  and  smooth,  spread  the  mixture  out  on  iron  plates 
in  thin  cakes  and  cook  them  over  a  slow  fire.  When  done  on  one  side,  turn  and 
cook  the  other.  These  cakes  are  very  palatable  when  served  hot. 

Flannel    Cakes. 

Mix  with  two  pounds  of  flour,  half  a  dozen  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  teacupful  of 
yeast  and  a  little  salt  with  enough  milk  to  form  a  thick  batter,  and  set  one  side  to 
rise.  Bake  in  small  well-greased  tins. 

Griddle    Cakes. 

Rub  together  a  pound  of  flour,  three  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt  and  make  it 
into  a  paste  with  some  sweet  buttermilk;  roll  it  out  and  cut  with  a  biscuit-cutter  into 
cakes  which  are  baked  on  a  griddle. 

Oatmeal  Cakes  (Small). 

Mix  a  little  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  salt  in  with  a  little  oatmeal  and  rub  it  in 
four  ounces  of  lard.  Add  one  teacupful  of  water  to  make  it  into  a  dough,  turn  onto 
a  board  sprinkled  with  meal,  and  knead  it  slightly.  Roll  it  out,  cut  it  into  rounds, 
put  them  on  the  griddle  and  when  they  are  done  on  one  side,  turn  them  over  to 
brown  on  the  other.  They  are  then  ready  for  use  or  may  be  put  away  in  tin  boxes 
and  kept  in  a  dry  place;  in  the  latter  case  they  should  again  be  made  crisp  by  hold- 
ing them  in  front  of  the  fire  before  serving. 

Oatmeal  Gruel. 

Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oatmeal  to  a  paste  by  adding  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
water;  stir  in  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  milk  or  water,  pour  it  into  a  saucepan  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  cook  for  half  an  hour.  When  it  is  done  turn  it  into  a  basin,  and  serve. 
It  may  be  strained  if  thought  necessary. 

Wheat  Flour  Gruel. 

Mix  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  it  into  a 
smooth,  thin  paste  with  cold  water;  then  mix  in  by  degrees  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  well 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  803 

cooked,  which  will  take  about  five  minutes.  Strain  the  gruel,  sweeten  it  to  taste,  and 
if  too  thick,  thin  it  with  a  little  milk.  The  gruel  may  either  be  flavored  with  lemon 
juice  or  grated  nutmeg,  or  a  small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon  may  be  boiled  with  it. 

Cracked- Wheat  Mush  (American). 

Brush  lightly  over  the  inside  of  a  flat-bottomed,  iron  saucepan  with  a  paste  brush 
dipped  in  lard — it  will  require  but  little — pour  in  two  quarts  of  water,  and  stand  it 
over  the  fire.  When  boiling  stir  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  cracked  wheat,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  keep  stirring  over  the  fire,  and  boil  it  for  ten  minutes;  then  move 
the  saucepan  to  the  side  and  keep  the  contents  simmering,  with  the  lid  on,  for  three 
hours.  As  it  is  not  the  wheat  itself  that  burns,  but  the  flour  mixed  up  with  it,  it 
would  be  better  to  wash  it  in  two  or  three  waters  before  boiling,  as  is  done  with  rice. 
When  sufficiently  cooked,  turn  the  mush  into  a  bowl,  and  serve  with  a  jug  of  cream. 

Graham-Flour   Mush. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  Graham  flour  into  a  basin  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  form  it  into  a  smooth  paste  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water;  then  mix  in 
gradually  nearly  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  Turn  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  and 
boil  it  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon>  When  cooked 
turn  the  mush  onto  a  dish,  and  serve  it  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Oatmeal   Mush» 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  coarse  oatmeal  into  the  top  part  of  a  double  boiler 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  nearly  one  quart  of  boiling  water,  boil  over  the  fire  for 
ten  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time  with  a  wooden  fork.  At  the  end  of  that  time  place 
the  upper  boiler  in  the  one  containing  hot  water  and  cook  for  an  hour  if  preferred 
soft,  but  if  liked  dry,  cook  for  three  hours.  Just  before  serving  remove  the  cover 
from  the  top  boiler,  stir  the  contents  once  and  leave  it  for  a  .few  minutes  so  that  the 
steam  may  escape. 

Cracked- Wheat    Porridge. 

Brush  over  the  inside  of  a  flat-bottomed  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of 
melted  lard.  Pour  in  four  pints  of  water  to  boil,  stir  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of 
cracked  wheat  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt;  stir  the  wheat  and  boil  it  for  a  few  min- 
utes, then  push  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  place  the  lid  on  and  allow  the 
contents  to  simmer  for  four  hours.  When  cooked  turn  the  porridge  into  a  bowl  and 
serve  it  with  a  jug  of  cream.  The  wheat  should  be  well  washed  before  being  cooked 
to  rid  it  of  the  flour,  which  is  generally  the  cause  of  burning. 


804  BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES. 


Milk    Porridge. 


Take  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  it  quite  smooth  with  one  breakfast  cupful 
of  water,  taking  care  to  see  that  there  are  no  lumps  left;  put  this  into  a  good  thick 
saucepan  and  add  to  it  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk,  one  teaspooriful  of  salt  and  a 
small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg.  Place  it  on  the  stove  and  keep  stirring  until  it 
boils;  allow  it  to  boil  for  ten  minutes  or  so,  and  it  is  then  ready  to  serve. 


Rice    Porridge. 


Put  one-half  pound  of  rice  into  three  quarts  of  boiling  water  and  let  it  swell  until 
it  is  quite  a  jelly,  then  add  to  it  one-fourth  pound  of  oatmeal  mixed  with  water  and 
stir  it  well  in;  add  also  one  ounce  of  finely-chopped  onion,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  one-half  ounce  of  bacon  fat,  lard  or  butter,  and  boil  all  together,  stirring  con- 
tinually. If  desired  the  quantity  of  oatmeal  may  be  larger;  it  may  even  be  the  same 
as  the  rice. 

Cream   Toasts. 

Cut  some  slices  of  bread,  about  one-third  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  trim  off 
the  crusts.  Have  ready  on  the  fire  a  bowl  half  full  of  boiling  water  with  about  one 
ounce  of  butter  in  it;  toast  the  slices  of  bread  a  pale  brown,  and  as  each  slice  is  done 
dip  it  in  the  boiling  water  and  butter  for  a  second,  sprinkle  on  a  little  salt  and  lay  it 
in  a  deep,  hot  dish  (the  one  in  which  it  is  to  be  served).  Pour  one  quart  of  milk 
into  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  thicken  with  one  ounce  of  cornmeal,  stir  in  two 
ounces  of  butter,  let  it  simmer  until  all  the  toasts  are  ready  and  stir  into  it  the  whites 
of  three  or  four  eggs  (which  should  have  been  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  before  the  bread 
was  cut).  Allow  this  to  come  just  to  the  boil  and  pour  it  over  the  toast,  lifting  the 
slices  one  by  one  to  let  the  mixture  run  in  between  them.  Cover  the  dish  well  and 
put  it  in  the  oven  for  two  or  three  minutes,  just  prior  to  serving. 


Egg   Toasts. 


Beat  together  one  egg,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  milk  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  soak  in 
this  six  small  slices  of  stale  bread,  and  when  soft  put  them  on  a  well-buttered  griddle 
and  brown  on  both  sides.  These  make  a  very  good  dish  for  tea,  served  hot.  They 
should  be  eaten  with  butter. 

Milk   Toast. 

Toast  slices  of  stale  bread  to  a  delicate  color;  meanwhile  heat  to  the  boiling  point 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  milk  to  saturate  the  toast,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
to  each  pint  of  milk.  When  the  milk  boils,  pour  it  over  the  toast,  and  serve  at  once. 
The  boiling  milk  may  be  thickened  with  a  little  flour. 


BAKERY  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES.  805 

French    Toast. 

Beat  up  a  little  egg,  salt  and  milk  in  a  basin  and  dip  some  thin  slices  of  bread  into 
this,  covering  well  on  both  sides,  then  plunge  the  bread  into  a  fryingpan  of  boiling 
fat  and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Remove,  drain  them,  and  they  are  ready  for  serving. 


Teas,  Coffees,  Etc. 


Chocolate. 

Chocolate  may  be  bought  in  cakes  and  may  be  had  either  sweet  or  plain.  Allow 
one  ounce  to  a  cupful.  Grate  the  chocolate  and  melt  it  over  the  fire  in  a  cupful  of 
water,  stirring  until  the  chocolate  is  dissolved;  then  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  keeping  on 
stirring  until  it  boils,  when  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Cocoa. 

(1)  Mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  prepared  cocoa  with  one   pint  of  water  and 
one  pint  of  milk,  let  it  boil   for  twenty  minutes,  whipping  all  the  time  with  an  egg- 
whisk. 

(2)  Put  one   teaspoonful  of   cocoa  into  a   cup,  add   a   little   boiling  milk  and 
stir  to  a  paste  and  sweeten  to  taste.      If  preferred,  the  cup   may  be  nearly  filled  with 
water  before  adding  milk. 

Black   Coffee. 

Grind  six  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee-beans  in  a  mill.  Put  the  coffee  on  the  filter 
with  the  strainer  over,  and  pour  on  three  cupfuls  of  boiling  water.  Put  on  the  cover 
and  let  it  infuse,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again. 

(2.)  Put  three  pints  of  cold  water  in  an  earthen  pot  on  the  range,  and  when  it 
boils  add  four  and  a  half  ounces  of  ground  coffee,  then  place  the  pot  on  the  corner  of 
the  stove  and  let  it  boil  for  three  minutes.  Take  a  small  piece  of  charcoal,  hot,  and 
put  in  the  coffee.  Let  this  stand  for  three  minutes  and  then  remove  the  skimmer 
from  the  top  of  the  coffee. 

(3.)  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  water  on  one  cupful  of  coffee,  stir  and  let  stand 
in  a  warm  place  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  boil  for  five  minutes. 

Breakfast   Coffee. 

Allow  one  tablespoonful  of  coffee  to  each  person.  The  coffee  when  ground 
should  be  measured,  put  in  the  pot,  and  boiling  water  poured  over  it  in  the  proportion 
of  three-quarters  of  a  pint  to  each  tablespoonful.  The  instant  it  boils  take  the  pot 
off,  uncover  and  let  it  stand  a  minute  or  two;  then  cover,  put  it  back  in  the  fire  and 
boil  again.  Let  it  stand  for  five  minutes  to  settle;  it  is  then  ready  to  pour  out. 

806 


TEAS,  COFFEES,  ETC.  807 

Iced   Coffee. 

Prepare  a  quart  of  coffee  as  for  Black  Coffee,  and  have  also  a  quart  of  well 
heated  milk,  but  not  boiled,  and  pour  the  coffee  and  milk  into  an  ice-cream  freezer, 
sweeten  with  a  little  powdered  sugar,  cover  the  freezer  and  place  it  in  a  tub  of  ice 
and  rock-salt,  a  little  higher  than  the  pot  of  coffee,  then  turn  the  handle  of  the  cover 
in  various  directions  for  five  minutes,  and  serve  in  coffee  glasses  with  powdered  sugar 
separately. 

Mazagrau. 

Make  the  coffee  exactly  as  for  Black  Coffee  and  have  half  a  dozen  goblets  half 
filled  with  clear  ice,  pour  in  the  coffee  and  add  a  pony  of  cognac  to  each  glass,  mix- 
ing well  with  a  spoon,  and  then  serve. 

Method  of  Roasting  Coffee. 

Procure  a  small  coffee-roaster  and  have  in  readiness  a  pound  of  Java,  thoroughly 
mixed  with  a  pound  of  Mocha,  put  it  into  the  roaster,  remove  one  of  the  lids  from  the 
stove,  and  place  the  roaster  over  a  moderate  fire,  then  turn  the  handle  constantly  but 
slowly  until  the  coffee  acquires  a  good  brown  color,  say  about  twenty-five  minutes  or 
so:  when  done  transfer  it  to  an  earthenware  jar,  cover  tightly,  and  it  is  ready  for  use 
when  required. 

Coffee  with  Whipped  Cream. 

Pour  into  each  cup  enough  sugar  to  properly  sweeten  the  coffee,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  or  a  little  more  of  boiling  milk.  Have  prepared  some  whipped  cream,  one 
pint  whisked  to  a  froth  being  required  for  a  dozen  cups  of  coffee.  Fill  the  cups 
partly  full  with  hot  coffee,  lay  on  top  of  each  a  spoonful  or  two  of  the  whipped 
cream,  stir  it  gently,  and  serve. 

Tea:    How   Made. 

Black,  green  and  Oolong  tea  are  prepared  as  follows.  First,  never  allow  the 
teapot  or  other  utensils  kept  for  the  preparation  of  tea  to  be  used  for  any  other  pur- 
pose, and  they  should  always  be  kept  scrupulously  clean.  Place  one  ounce  of  tea 
in  a  teapot,  with  two  gills  of  boiling  water,  and  infuse  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  to 
this  eight  gills  of  boiling  water,  and  after  the  lapse  of  a  few  minutes,  stir  with  a  tea- 
spoon and  allow  it  to  stand.  It  should  be  served  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Iced   Tea,    French   Style. 

Place  in  a  teapot  three  tablespoonfuls  of  tea,  pour  over  two  and  one-half  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  and  turn  it  into  a  freezer.  Sweeten  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 


8o8  TEAS,  COFFEES,  ETC. 

sugar,  tightly  cover  the  freezer,  place  it  in  a  tub  containing  broken  ice  and  salt  a 
little  higher  than  the  height  of  the  tea,  turn  it  sharply  by  the  handle,  all  round  in 
different  directions  for  five  or  six  minutes,  wipe  the  cover  of  the  freezer  well,  to  pre- 
vent any  ice  falling  in,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  ladle  pour  it  into  a  cold  pitcher  or  jar. 
Send  to  the  table  in  glasses  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  sugar  separately. 

Russian   Tea. 

Pour  little  water  over  three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  English  breakfast-tea  in 
a  tea  pot.  The  water  should  be  boiling  and  just  sufficient  to  cover  the  tea;  let  it  in- 
fuse for  a  minute  or  two,  then  draw  the  water  off.  Next  pour  in  half  a  pony  of 
Jamaica  rum,  together  with  three  pints  of  boiling  water,  infuse  for  four  minutes  and 
serve  in  a  cup,  with  a  decanter  of  old  Jamaica  rum  separately,  with  thin  slices  of 
lemon  and  some  powdered  sugar. 


Confectionery. 

Sugar   Boiling. 


Considerable  attention  to  this  art  should  be  directed  by  those  who  desire  to 
note  the  changes  that  take  place  in  sugar  at  different  degrees  of  heat,  the  expres- 
sions, "Boil  to  the  crack,"  "To  the  pearl,"  "To  the  thread,"  "To  the  blow,"  etc., 
must  be  well  understood  and  the  simple  method  of  determining  these  various 
conditions  should  be  committed  to  memory. 

Previous  to  explaining  the  "degrees"  of  sugar  boiling  it  will  be  best  to  describe 
suitable  vessels  for  holding  the  sugar  and  stoves  for  supplying  the  requisite  heat. 
Sugar  boilers  or  pans  are  made  in  a  number  of  shapes  from  the  old-fashioned  Scotch 
saucepan,  or  "goblet,"  to  the  deep  round  pan,  which  finds  the  greatest  favor  among 
confectioners,  whether  for  large  or  for  small  quantities,  the  pan  being  large  or  small 
accordingly.  The  stove  used  for  receiving  the  pan  should  be  fitted  with  a  ring  for 
the  round,  dome  bottom  of  the  pan  to  rest  in,  and  the  heat  may  be  derived  from 
either  fuel  or  gas. 

Another  necessary  implement  is  a  marble  pouring-plate,  which  should  be  laid  on 
a  table  and  supplied  with  different-sized  frames.  All  skilled  sugar  boilers  advise 
the  use  of  a  thermometer  graduated  from  50  degrees  Fahrenheit  to  350  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  but,  nevertheless,  very  few  skilled  boilers  use  them;  they  are  so  well 
accustomed  to  jndge  of  the  degree  to  which  the  sugar  has  arrived  by  very  simple 
tests,  which  will  be  described  further  on.  It  is  observed  that  while  the  sugar  is 
undergoing  the  process  of  boiling  it  is  very  nearly  impossible  for  a  learner  to  deter- 
mine the  exact  degree  which  the  sugar  has  attained  without  the  aid  of  the  thermome- 
ter, and  even  the  journeyman  confectioner  finds  it  very  useful. 

Place  in  the  pan  seven  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  broken  into  small  pieces  (white 
crystallized  sugar  will  answer  the  same  purpose),  and  add  one  quart  of  water;  set  the 
pan  over  the  fire  and  allow  its  contents  to  boil.  As  soon  as  the  bubbles  show  on  the 
surface,  lift  the  pan  from  the  fire  and  examine  the  contents  to  see  whether  the  sugar 
all  is  dissolved;  stir  with  a  spatula  and  crush  any  lumps  that  may  remain.  Place  it 
again  over  the  fire,  putting  a  cover  over  the  pan,  and  in  ten  minutes  remove  the  cover 
and  put  in  the  thermometer,  being  careful  that  the  lower  portion  of  it  shall  be 
thoroughly  imbedded  in  the  sugar. 

When  the  thermometer  indicates  215  degrees  to  220  degrees  the  degree  called 
"smooth"  is  reached  and  the  sugar  is  well  adapted  for  crystallizing  and  making  gum 
goods  and  liqueurs.  At  230  degrees  to  235  degrees  "thread"  it  is  used  for  liqueurs. 
Two  hundred  and  forty  to  245  degrees  "feather"  or  "blow"  quickly  follows,  requir- 

809 


8io  CONFECTIONERY. 

ing  very  close  attention  to  the  pan  in  order  to  avoid  having  the  sugar  boil  over;  this 
condition  is  suitable  for  candying  fruits  and  for  making  fondants  and  creams.  Two 
hundred  and  fifty  degrees  to  255  degrees,  "ball"  or  "pearl,"  serves  for  cocoanut  and 
other  candies,  cocoanut  ice  and  grain  sugars  generally.  Three  hundred  and  ten  de- 
grees to  315  degrees,  "crack,"  is  required  for  all  kinds  of  drops,  rocks,  taffies,  and 
clear  goods. 

The  hand  test  for  these  various  "degrees"  is  not  very  satisfactory,  although  it  is 
marvelous  with  what  accuracy  an  experienced  confectioner  will  judge  of  their  arrival. 
He  dips  a  clay-pipe-stem  into  the  sugar  when  it  is  boiling  and  draws  it  between  the 
finger  and  thumb;  if  the  sugar  feels  oily  it  has  reached  the  "smooth"  degree  (215 
to  220  degrees).  When  the  sugar  forms  small  threads  between  the  finger  and  thumb 
as  they  are  opened  out  it  has  reached  the  "thread"  degree  (230  to  235  degrees), 
which  may  be  either  small  or  large.  The  "feather"  degree  (240  to  245  degrees), 
so  quickly  follows  the  thread  that  no  test  is  necessary,  although  a  toss  of  a  little 
sugar  in  the  air  will  show  the  feathered  appearance.  The  "ball"  degree  (250  degrees 
to  255  degrees)  is  tested  by  dipping  the  sugar  on  a  pipe  stem  and  plunging  into  some 
cold  water,  and  when  you  take  it  out  the  sugar  should  work  up  like  putty.  The 
"crack"  (310  degrees  to  315  degrees)  is  the  most  important  degree  of  them  all,  as  it 
is  most  generally  wanted.  When  the  pipe-stem  is  withdrawn  from  the  sugar,  as  in 
testing  for  the  "ball,"  the  sugar  should  harden  readily  and  snap  off  when  bitten  by 
the  teeth.  The  next  degree  is  called  "caramel"  and  means  that  the  sugar  is  on  the 
point  of  burning. 

It  is  well,  before  proceeding  further,  to  make  some  reference  to  what  confection- 
ers term  "cutting  the  grain"  of  sugar.  Refined  sugar,  whether  lump  or  crystal, 
when  boiled  to  any  degree  above  the  "ball,"  or  250  degrees  by  the  thermometer,  is 
graining  and  would,  if  it  were  turned  out  into  a  pan,  become  a  solid  lump  of  hard, 
candied  sugar,  and  to  prevent  this  the  grain  must  be  cut  by  the  addition  of  cream  of 
tartar,  which,  in  its  action,  will  cause  the  sugar  to  become  pliable  while  hot  and  trans- 
parent when  it  becomes  cold;  therefore  it  is  necessary  to  use  cream  of  tartar  with 
all  sugars  intended  for  drops,  rocks,  taffies  and  clear  goods.  Some  sugar  workers 
prefer  to  use  crystallized  acetic,  or  citric  acid,  but  cream  of  tartar  is  the  best, 
safest  and  most  to  be  relied  upon,  the  quantity  varying  from  one  to  two  teaspoonfuls 
for  a. seven-pound  boil  of  sugar. 

Sugar  may  be  grained  by  boiling  it  to  the  "ball"  degree,  then,  without  adding 
the  cream  of  tartar  or  other  acid,  working  it  with  the  spatula  against  the  side  of  the 
boiler  until  the  sugar  becomes  opaque.  This  sometimes  requires  considerable  perse- 
verance in  order  to  bring  it  to  a  satisfactory  condition. 

With  the  knowledge  as  above  outlined  the  confectioner  should  be  prepared  of 
commence  manufacturing,  and  here  his  personal  adeptness  and  ingenuity  will  have 
to  serve  him. 

Rock  is  made  by  pouring  the  sugar  into  flat,  rectangular,  round  or  oval  tins; 
drops,  balls  and  lozenges  can  be  made  by  passing  the  cooling  sugar  through  a  ma- 


CONFECTIONERY.  81 1 

chine  with  cutting  rollers  or  by  pulling  it  into  long  rods  over  a  hook  and  then  cut- 
ting the  pieces  off  with  scissors  in  such  a  manner  as  to  have  the  edges  formed  cross 
or  lie  horizontally  as  in  cushions;  and  by  means  of  the  scissors  numerous  shapes  can 
be  cut  out,  such  as  diamonds,  squares,  wedges,  triangles,  etc. 

Chocolate    Bonbons. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  French  chocolate  in  a  sugar-boiler,  and  stand  on  the  stove 
till  the  chocolate  is  soft.  Dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  gum  arabic  in  a  tablespoonful 
and  a  half  of  hot  water,  mix  it  with  the  softened  chocolate,  stir  until  the  chocolate  is 
smooth,  then  mix  in  two  ounces  of  fine  icing  sugar.  When  well  mixed,  drop  the 
chocolate  from  the  spout  of  the  sugar-boiler  cutting  it  off  with  a  piece  of  wire  into 
pieces  the  size  of  Brazilian  nuts.  When  the  bonbons  are  dry,  pack  them  in  paper  in 
cardboard  boxes. 

Orange-Flower   Bonbons   in    Cases. 

Put  twelve  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  into  a  sugar-boiler,  and  boil  to  38  degrees  (see 
Syrups).  When  it  is  cool,  grain  it  with  a  spatula  until  it  is  perfectly  white,  then  add 
one  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers,  working  them  well  in,  fill  some  paper-cases  with 
the  mixture,  and  put  them  in  the  hot  closet  to  dry;  they  are  then  ready  for  use. 

Boston    Chips. 

Boil  the  required  quantity  of  sugar  to  the  crack,  flavoring  and  coloring  it  as 
desired;  turn  it  onto  a  greased  marble  slab,  and  let  it  cool.  Turn  in  the  edges,  and 
with  a  hook  fastened  in  the  wall,  pull  the  mass  until  it  is  quite  light  in  appearance. 
Run  it  through  a  machine  set  so  close  that  it  will  come  out  as  thin  as  a  wafer.  Cut 
it  into  fancy  shapes,  wind  them  round  an  oiled  stick,  and  let  them  get  cold  before 
packing  away  in  boxes. 

Candied   Fruit   or   Nuts. 

Boil  one-half  pound  of  loaf  sugar  in  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water.  The  syrup 
must  not  be  stirred,  and  must  boil  furiously.  Take  the  prepared  fruit  or  nuts  on  the 
point  of  a  large  needle  or  fine  skewer,  dip  them  into  the  syrup,  and  then  lay  them  on 
a  dish  that  has  been  slightly  buttered  or  oiled,  or  string  them  on  a  thread,  and  after 
dipping  them  in  the  syrup,  suspend  them  by  the  thread.  When  oranges  are  used, 
divide  them  into  sections  and  dry  them  on  a  sieve,  or  in  a  warm  room,  or  in  the  open 
air.  Cherries  should  be  stoned.  Walnuts  are  particularly  nice  prepared  in  this  way. 

Candied    Quarters   of  Oranges. 

Peel  the  oranges,  divide  them  into  quarters,  remove  the  pips  as  carefully  as  pos- 
sible, and  boil  the  fruit  gently  in  plenty  of  water.  Drain  them  thoroughly  on  a  sieve, 


812  CONFECTIONERY. 

then  place  in  a  stewpan  with  syrup  at  twenty-eight  degrees,  and  let  them  boil  slowly 
for  ten  minutes.  Turn  them  into  a  basin  with  the  syrup  and  leave  till  the  following 
day;  then  drain  the  syrup  from  the  oranges,  boil  it  and  pour  over  them  again.  Pro- 
ceed in  the  same  way  the  three  following  days,  giving  the  syrup  in  all  what  is  called 
four  fashions.  Remove  the  quarters  of  oranges  carefully  from  the  syrup,  put  them 
on  wire  sieves  and  set  them  in  the  screen.  When  they  are  dry,  dip  them  in  semi- 
grained  sugar  and  dry  again.  When  quite  dry  (they  should  not  stick  to  the  fingers 
when  touched),  take  the  sieve  of  oranges  from  the  screen  and  leave  them  until  cold, 
then  pack  away  in  boxes  between  layers  of  white  paper. 


American   Candy. 


Pour  one  pint  of  water  and  one-fourth  pint  of  vinegar  over  six  pounds  of  sugar 
and  leave  it  until  fully  dissolved.  Place  a  sugar-pan  over  the  fire  and  let  the  contents 
boil  fast  till  thick  enough  to  put  into  ropes.  Mix  in  them  one-fourth  pound  of  butter 
and  boil  hard  for  two  minutes;  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  dry  soda  and  remove  the 
candy  from  the  fire.  Allow  it  to  stand  until  the  effervescence  ceases  and  then  stir 
in  a  flavoring  of  vanilla.  Turn  it  out  onto  greased  dishes,  and  with  the  tips  of  the 
fingers  pull  it  until  it  is  white. 

Cream   Candy. 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one  teacupful  of 
water  and  two  pounds  of  lump  sugar  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  the  mixture  for  twenty 
minutes.  Before  removing  it  from  the  fire  add  a  little  extract  of  vanilla  or  essence  of 
lemon,  and  pour  it  into  a  flat  tin  dish,  stirring  it  until  quite  cold.  It  is  then  ready 
for  use. 

Nut   Candy. 

Put  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  sugar  into  a  sugar-boiler  with  one  teacupful  each 
of  vinegar  and  water  and  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon.  Set  the  boiler  on  the  fire 
and  stir  until  boiled  to  the  crack  (see  Sugar  Boiling).  Drop  it  in  small  quantities 
on  a  well-buttered  baking-sheet,  put  half  a  blanched  kernel  on  each,  and  when  nearly 
cold  add  more  syrup.  When  the  required  number  are  done,  dry  them  on  a  sieve  over 
the  fire,  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Rock   Candy. 

This  is  really  crystallized  sugar  in  its  simplest  form.  Place  some  clarified  sugar 
in  a  sugar  boiler,  and  boil  to  the  feather,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid  or  spirits 
of  wine  in  order  to  assist  the  separation  of  the  crystals  from  the  more  hardened  por- 
tions of  the  syrup.  Pour  the  syrup  into  moulds,  and  let  it  remain  in  the  hot  closet  at 
a  temperature  of  from  90  to  100  deg.  of  heat;  leave  it  there  for  eight  or  ten  days, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  crystal  desired.  In  the  process  of  crystallizing,  the  im- 


CONFECTIONERY.  813 

purities  contained  in  the  sugar  are  left  behind  in  the  water,  and  the  sugar  is  rendered 
as  nearly  pure  as  possible.  When  the  crystallization  is  complete,  pour  off  the  surplus 
syrup,  turn  the  mould  upside  down,  and  let  it  remain  until  fully  drained.  The  moulds 
are  made  of  strong  tin  or  copper,  and  must  be  considerably  smaller  at  the  bottom 
than  at  the  top,  and  pierced  with  small  holes  round  the  sides  in  uniform  rows,  tier 
above  tier,  and  sewn  with  coarse  thread  across  the  mould  from  side  to  side,  after 
which  they  must  be  pasted  up  with  paper,  or  covered  with  potter's  clay  all  over  the 
outside,  in  order  effectually  to  close  the  holes  and  prevent  the  syrup  from  leaking 
out.  When  quite  drained,  remove  the  paper  from  the  sides,  warm  the  mould  equally 
round  the  outside,  and  strike  the  edge  of  it  with  a  sharp,  hard  knock  upon  the  table, 
when  the  sugar  will  relieve  itself  from  the  mould.  Place  the  mould  upon  a  sieve  or 
board,  and  set  it  in  the  hot  closet  until  it  is  perfectly  dry.  This  candy  may  be  tinted 
a  rose  or  scarlet  color  by  adding  a  little  prepared  carmine  or  cochineal  before  boiling. 
The  purer  the  sugar  used  for  making  the  syrup  the  whiter  the  candy  will  be. 

Peanut    Candy. 

Dissolve  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  saltspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  in  two  gills 
of  cold  water;  then  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire  and  cook  till  brittle,  adding  and  stirring 
in  about  one-half  ounce  of  butter.  Shell  some  peanuts,  and  rub  off  as  much  of  the 
inner  skin  as  possible.  Put  a  layer  of  them  two  deep  at  the  bottom  of  some  well- 
buttered  tins,  and  when  the  candy  is  ready,  pour  it  over  and  leave  till  cold.  Then  cut 
it  or  break  it  into  pieces  of  a  convenient  size. 

Vanilla   Candy   Tablets. 

Put  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  into  a  sugar-boiler  with  just  enough  water  to  dis- 
solve it.  Boil  the  sugar  to  the  ball  degree,  then  pour  in  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid  and 
flavor  with  essence  of  vanilla.  Work  the  sugar  against  the  sides  of  the  pan  with  a 
silver  spoon,  using  the  back  part  of  the  bowl,  thus  giving  it  an  opalized  appearance. 
When  through  working  the  sugar,  pour  it  into  a  tin  dish,  leaving  it  until  it  is  nearly  set, 
then  mark  the  tablets  out  with  the  back  of  a  knife  on  the  surface  of  the  sugar.  Be- 
fore the  sugar  is  poured  in,  the  tin  should  be  lightly  brushed  over  with  the  oil  of 
almonds.  Dry  the  sugar  in  the  screen,  and  when  it  is  hard,  snap  it  in  two  where  it 
is  marked. 

Walnut   Candy. 

Crack  the  walnuts  and  shell  them  carefully.  Pound  or  chop  one  and  one-half 
pints  of  the  kernels.  Mix  three-fourths  of  a  teacupful  of  vinegar  and  one  and  one- 
half  teaspoonfuls  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water  with  one  and  one-half 
pounds  of  brown  sugar,  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire  and  cook  until  quite  stiff.  Pour 
a  thin  layer  of  this  syrup  into  buttered-tins,  then  add  the  pounded  or  chopped  wal- 


814  CONFECTIONERY. 

nuts,  spreading  them  evenly,  pour  over  the  remainder  of  the  syrup  and  let  the  candy 
stand  until  cold;  then  cut  it  into  squares. 

Caramels. 

(1)  Boil  some  syrup  and  flavor  with  either  liquors,   essences,   or   some  strong 
extract  of  coffee;  then  hold  it  over  a  very  slow  fire  in  a  saucepan  in  order  to  allow  it 
to  cook  slowly  for  about  two  or  three  minutes;  in  this  way  it  will  acquire  flavor,  but 
little  or  no  additional  color.      Oil  a  slab,  pour  the  caramels   on   it,    and  when   it   has 
cooled  a  little,  mark  it  with  the  back  of  a  knife   in   the   shape   of  a   small    square   or 
lozenge.     When  quite  cool,  break  in  pieces. 

(2)  Take   one-fourth   pound   of   chocolate   broken   up,    two   pounds  of  brown 
sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  and  one-half  pint   of   milk.      Pour  the 
milk  into  a  preserving-pan  and  add  the  other  ingredients  to  this.     Allow  it  to  boil 
for  at  least  half  an  hour,  stirring  frequently.     When  it  is  done,  a  crust  of  sugar  will 
form  on  the  spoon  and  on  the  side  of  the  pan.     Pour  in  a  tablespoonful  of  extract  of 
vanilla  or  other  flavoring;  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  rapidly  until  the  caramel  be- 
gins to  thicken.     Then  pour  it  quickly  into  buttered-pans,  and  when  nearly  cold,  cut 
into  small  squares. 

Orange    Caramels. 

Peel  the  oranges  carefully,  removing  all  the  white  part  of  the  rind;  separate  them 
into  sections  without  breaking  the  skin  and  lay  them  in  confectioners'  sugar  for  a 
short  time.  Make  a  syrup  of  loaf  sugar  and  very  little  water,  boil  it  till  a  very  little  of 
it  tried  in  water  is  brittle,  then  dip  the  pieces  of  orange  separately  and  quickly  into  it 
and  lay  them  on  a  well-oiled  tray  to  dry.  They  should  be  very  carefully  removed 
from  the  trays  when  dry,  as  the  caramel  is  easily  broken. 

Philadelphia   Caramels. 

Put  three  and  one-half  pounds  of  sugar  into  a  sugar-boiler  with  one-fourth  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
cocoa  paste,  and  one  ounce  of  white  wax  of  paraffin;  pour  in  one  pint  of  rich  cream, 
and  boil  over  a  clear  fire  to  the  crack.  Have  ready  a  well-greased  marble  slab  with 
iron  bars  on  it,  pour  over  the  mixture,  and  let  it  get  cold.  Cut  it  into  cubes  or  other 
shapes,  wrap  them  up  separately  in  wax  paper,  and  lay  them  away  in  boxes. 

Raspberry    Caramels. 

Put  six  pounds  of  sugar  and  one-half  gallon  of  cream  into  a  sugar-boiler,  stir 
well,  and  add  four  pounds  of  glucose,  boil  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  butter,  and  boil  it  to  the  crack.  Add  two 


CONFECTIONERY.  815 

tablespoonfuls  of  raspberry  extract,  stir  well,  turn  the  mixture  out  onto  a  well-oiled 
plate,  and  allow  it  to  cool.  Mark  it  in  the  desired  shapes,  break  it  when  cold,  put 
the  pieces  away  into  bottles  or  boxes,  and  let  them  remain  in  a  dry  place  until 
required  for  use. 

Vanilla   Caramels. 

Mix  well  together  two  pounds  of  the  best  white  sugar,  one  ounce  of  gelatine  dis- 
solved in  two-thirds  a  breakfast  cupful  of  cold  water,  one-half  ounce  of  pure  paraffin 
wax,  one-half  pint  of  cream,  and  one  pound  of  glucose  (though,  if  the  caramels  are 
made  in  the  summer  time,  the  glucose  may  be  reduced  to  eleven  ounces).  Put  this 
mixture  over  the  fire,  and  stir  it  constantly  until,  when  a  little  is  dried  in  cold 
water,  it  forms  a  ball  if  rolled  through  the  fingers,  then  stir  in  a  flavoring  of  vanilla, 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  pour  into  well-buttered  tins,  let  cool,  and  cut  it  into  three- 
fourth  inch  squares.  Wrap  them  separately  in  oiled  paper,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
place  until  wanted. 

Chestnut   Glace   with    Caramel. 

Select  one  quart  of  chestnuts,  slit  the  skins  with  a  knife,  place  them  in  a  frying- 
pan  on  a  slow  fire,  and  roast  them,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  get  brown,  then  remove 
the  skins.  When  they  are  quite  cold,  stick  a  wooden  peg  or  splint  into  each  chest- 
nut. Boil  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  pint  of  water,  and  dip  each  chestnut  into  it. 
Try  the  sugar  by  dipping  a  skewer  first  into  the  sugar  and  then  in  cold  water;  if  it 
comes  off  easily,  it  will  not  stick  to  the  teeth.  In  a  broad  flat  basin,  put  some  brown 
sugar,  and  push  the  ends  of  the  skewers  into  it,  leaving  the  chestnuts  uppermost  to 
drain,  and  when  they  are  cold,  arrange  them  tastefully  on  a  compote-dish. 

Chestnut   Glaces   with   Sugar. 

Into  a  stewpan  partly  filled  with  water  put  one-half  pound  of  crushed  loaf-sugar, 
not  having  more  water  than  the  sugar  will  absorb,  and  boil  it  to  the  crack.  Then  boil 
the  requisite  quantity  of  chestnuts  until  soft,  and  peel  them,  taking  care  not  to  break 
them.  Take  them  on  the  point  of  an  iron  skewer,  one  at  a  time;  dip  them  first  into 
the  syrup  and  then,  quickly,  into  cold  water.  As  the  chestnuts  are  done,  slip  them, 
off  the  skewer  onto  a  wire  sieve,  and  dry  them  in  a  warm  place. 


Acid    Drops. 


Put  three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  sugar-boiler  with  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar,  and  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water,  and  boil  them  to  the  crack.  When  the  pan  is 
removed  from  the  fire,  stir  in  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  pour  the  sugar  onto  an 
oiled  marble  slab,  sprinkle  over  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  tartaric  acid  and  work 
it  in.  Place  it  on  an  oiled  tin  sheet  to  keep  warm  ;  take  a  small  quantity  at  a  time, 


816  CONFECTIONERY. 

roll  it  out  to  the  shape  of  a  pipe-stem,  cut  it  into  small  pieces  with  a  pair  of  scissors, 
roll  them  round  in  the  hands,  or  the  paste  may  be  passed  through  a  drop-machine; 
dust  over  with  fine  sugar,  and  put  them  away  in  boxes. 


Cough   Drops. 


Prepare  a  decoction  of  two  ounces  of  dried  horehound,  half  that  quantity  of 
camomile,  the  same  of  boneset,  and  two  ounces  of  mullein-flowers,  by  placing  them 
all  in  a  saucepan,  covering  them  all  with  water,  and  boiling  them  for  ten  or  twelve 
minutes.  Turn  the  whole  into  an  earthenware  or  porcelain  bowl,  cover  closely, 
and  let  them  remain  until  cold.  Strain  and  pass  the  liquor  through  a  hair-sieve, 
measure  it,  and  to  each  pint  allow  two  pounds  of  sugar  Put  the  sugar  and  liquor 
into  a  saucepan,  boil  them  to  the  crack  degree,  let  it  cool,  pour  it  onto  a  greased 
marble  slab,  turn  it  at  the  edges,  and  cut  it  into  tablets,  or  pass  it  through  a  drop- 
machine.  Dust  them  over  with  fine  sugar,  put  them  in  boxes,  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place. 


Millefleur   Drops. 


For  all  sugar  drops  the  sugar  should  first  be  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  then 
through  a  very  fine  one  to  sift  out  all  the  powder  that  is  not  required  in  making  them. 
Put  the  necessary  quantity  of  sugar  into  a  basin,  and  mix  in  by  degrees  with  a  spoon 
sufficient  water  to  make  a  paste  of  such  a  consistency  that  it  will  easily  drop  from  the 
spoon  and  leave  none  sticking  on  it.  Pour  the  paste  into  a  bright  sugar-pan,  place  it 
on  the  stove  and  stir  it  with  a  spatula  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  on  the  point  of 
boiling.  Then  remove  it  at  once,  and  stir  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  essence  of  mille- 
fleur  to  flavor  it,  and  with  a  wire  in  the  right  hand,  and  the  pan  in  the  other,  drop  off 
small  pieces,  cutting  them  with  the  wire  and  allowing  them  to  fall  on  thick  cartridge 
paper,  a  marble  slab,  or  a  tin  or  copper  plate.  This  is  the  old-fashioned  and  homely 
style  of  making  drops.  Place  the  drops  away  to  cool  for  about  two  hours,  and 
remove  them  from  the  paper  or  plate  by  draining  the  former,  and  by  using  a  thin 
spatula  for  the  latter;  pack  them  away  in  bottles  or  boxes,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool 
dry  place  until  they  are  wanted. 


Strawberry   Drops. 


Pass  a  quantity  of  ripe  strawberries  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  mix  with  them 
some  coarsely  sifted  sugar.  Put  the  paste  into  a  sugar-boiler  with  a  lip  to  it,  and  stir 
it  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  then  let  the  drops  fall  slowly  from  the  lip  of  the  pan  on 
to  a  baking-sheet,  leaving  a  small  space  between  each.  When  cold,  place  the  drops 
onto  a  sieve,  and  dry  them  in  a  hot  closet.  Keep  them  packed  in  canisters. 


CONFECTIONERY.  817 

Vanilla   Drops. 

Cut  up  as  fine  as  possible  two  vanilla  beans;  place  them  in  a  mortar  with  a 
little  sugar  and  pound  them  to  a  powder.  Sift  this  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix 
with  it  one  pound  of  coarsely  sifted  sugar.  Put  this  in  a  basin  and  add  gradually, 
stirring  with  a  spoon,  sufficient  water  to  make  the  paste  of  such  a  thickness  that  it 
will  fall  from  a  spoon  and  none  of  it  remain  sticking  to  it.  Turn  the  paste  into  a 
liquid  sugar-pan,  place  it  on  the  stove,  and  stir  well  with  a  spatula  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved  and  makes  a  slight  noise.  When  on  the  point  of  boiling,  remove  the  pan 
and  work  well  with  a  spatula  until  when  dropped  the  paste  will  retain  its  former 
shape  and  not  spread  too  much.  With  the  pan  in  the  left  hand  and  a  piece  of  wire 
in  the  right,  let  the  drops  fall  on  a  smooth  tin  or  cartridge  paper;  harden  then  in  a 
hot  closet  for  two  or  three  hours,  remove  from  the  tin  or  paper  and  pack  them  away 
for  use.  Vanilla  beans  are  used  in  preference  to  the  essence,  as  the  latter  is  apt  to 
make  the  paste  greasy. 

English   Rock. 

Put  seven  pounds  of  moist  sugar  and  one  quart  of  water  into  a  sugar-boiler,  boil 
it  to  the  crack,  turn  it  out  onto  an  oiled  slab,  and  spread  over  and  work  in  thoroughly 
four  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  not  blanched,  form  the  mass  into  a  roll,  and  let  it  get 
cool.  Cut  it  into  slices  about  one-half  inch  in  thickness,  and  when  perfectly  cold  it 
should  be  packed  away  in  tins. 

Vanilla  Lozenges. 

Cut  up  four  or  five  vanilla  beans,  place  them  in  a  mortar  with  a  small  quantity 
of  sugar,  and  pound  them  to  a  powder;  sift  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  up  with 
two  pounds  more  of  sifted  sugar  on  a  slab.  Form  a  hollow  in  the  center,  and  pour 
in  sufficient  dissolved  gum — or  about  one-half  pound  of  gum  Arabic  dissolved  in  one 
breakfast  cupful  of  water — to  make  a  stiff  paste,  and  roll  it  out  to  about  one-eighth 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Sprinkle  the  surface  with  starch  powder,  and  fine  sugar, 
smooth  it  with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  cut  it  up  into  lozenges,  place  them  on  wooden 
trays  on  the  stove,  and  allow  them  to  dry.  Pack  them  away  in  tin  boxes  for  use. 

Strawberry  Marzipan. 

Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and  boil  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  of 
.powdered  sugar  to  the  ball  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  put  the  blanched  almonds  into  a 
mortar,  and  pound  them  to  a  fine  paste,  mixing  them  with  the  sugar.  Crush  in  a 
muslin  bag  one-half  pound  of  picked  strawberries,  squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  add  to 
it  the  paste  of  the  almonds  and  syrup;  mix  it  thoroughly  together,  put  the  mixture  in 
a  pan,  and  place  hot  ashes  under  it.  Continue  stirring  until  the  mixture  is  sufficiently 


8i8  CONFECTIONERY. 

done,  that  is  when  a  small  piece  laid  on  the  back  of  the  hand  may  be  taken  off  again 
without  sticking.  Spread  it  on  a  slab,  and  when  perfectly  cold  cut  it  into  any  de- 
sired shapes. 

Nougat. 

This  is  described  as  a  cake,  confection  or  sweetmeat  made  of  almonds  or  other 
nuts.  When  freshly  prepared  it  is  so  elastic  that  it  can  be  moulded  into  cups,  baskets 
or  any  other  shapes.  The  following  recipes  give  a  variety  of  favorite  modes  of  pre- 
paring and  using  nougat: 

1 I )  Put  eight  ounces  of  fine  powdered  sugar  into  a  copper  egg-whipping  bowl 
and  mix   in   the  whites  of  three  eggs,  whipping  continually  over  a  clear  fire  until  the 
paste  is  of  the  consistency  of  thick  batter.     Add  one-half  pound  of  almonds  blanched 
and  cut  into  small  pieces,  two  ounces  of  chopped  candied  orange  peel,  one  table- 
spoonful   of  vanilla  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal.     Mix  thoroughly 
and  spread   it  out   upon  two   pieces  of  wafer-paper  to  about  one  inch  in  thickness, 
cover  with  two  more  pieces  of  paper,  using  a  flat  plate  or  board  with  a  small  weight 
on  top   to  keep  them  level.     Put  them  in  an  oven  of  very  moderate  heat  and  bake 
for  a  few  minutes.     Take  them  out,  and  when  nearly  dry  cut  them  up  into  narrow, 
oblong  squares.     They  are  then  ready  for  use. 

(2)  Put  one-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar   into  a  copper  egg-bowl,  add  the 
whites   of  two  eggs  and  one  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water.     Set  the  pan  over 
a  slow  fire  and  whisk  well  until  the  mixture  is  of  the  consistency  of  stiff  batter.     Mix 
in  one-half  pound  of  almonds,  blanched  and  shred  very  fine,  stir  well  and  put  the 
paste  on  sheets  of  wafer-paper  spread  over  a  baking-sheet  in  the  form  of  small  ovals. 
Put  them  in  a  very  moderate  oven  and  dry  slowly.     They  will  be  ready  for  use  when 
firm.     Take  care  to  keep  them  as  white  as  possible. 

(3)  Put  a   little  orange-flower  water  into  a  saucepan  with  fourteen  ounces  of 
honey  and  boil  to  the  ball  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling).     Meanwhile  whisk  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  two  pounds  of  blanched  and  finely-chopped  sweet 
almonds  and  one-fourth  pound  of  confectioner's  sugar  and  beat  them  together  with 
the  honey  into  a  smooth   paste.     Put  a  sheet  of  wafer-paper  on  a  board,  spread  the 
paste   over  about   one-half  inch   thick,  cover  with   another  sheet  of  paper  and  put 
another  board  on   top  with  a  weight  on  it.     When  quite  cold  cut  into  shapes,  and  it 
is  ready  for  use. 

(4)  Blanch    five    ounces  of    sweet  almonds    and    cut    them   into  fine  threads. 
Roast  the  kernels  of  three  ounces  of  Brazilian  nuts  and  peel  them,  chop  the  nuts 
and  one  and  one-half  ounces  of  candied  lemon  peel,  mix  them  together  with  the 
almonds    and    three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  confectioner's  sugar.      Whip  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  other  ingredients  and  work  all  to 
a  paste.     Spread    the  nougat  on  a  sheet  of  wafer-paper,  cover  with  another  sheet 


CONFECTIONERY.  819 

of  the  same  paper  and  press  well  between  two  sheets  of  iron  or  tin,  and  put  the 
paste  in  the  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Leave  the  nougat  till  cold  before  cutting 
it  up. 

(5)  Blanch  four  pounds  of  almonds  and  put  them  in  a  cool  oven  where  they 
will  dry  and  keep  slightly  warm.  Put  two  pounds  of  confectioner's  sugar  into  a 
copper  pan,  add  one  pound  of  white  honey,  put  the  pan  on  the  fire,  skimming 
frequently,  and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  syrup  and 
a  few  drops  of  citric  acid.  When  the  sugar  is  at  the  crack  degree  (see  Sugar 
Boiling),  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  add  a  few  drops  of  extract  of 
roses  or  orange-flower  water  and  a  very  little  vegetable  carmine,  turn  the  whole 
out  onto  a  well-oiled  marble  slab  and  with  a  flat  spoon  scrape  it  all  into  the 
center  until  it  forms  a  mass  that  can  be  easily  worked.  Take  it  up  in  the  hands 
and  work  it  on  a  hook  in  the  same  way  as  for  twisted  sugar  (see  Sugar),  but 
without  allowing  it  to  get  cold,  and  working  in  the  almonds  and  two  handfuls  of 
pistachio  kernels.  Have  ready  a  low,  square-shaped  wooden  case  spread  with 
large  slips  of  wafer-paper,  put  the  mixture  in,  smoothing  it  over  on  top  so  as  to 
give  it  an  even  thickness  of  about  two  inches  and  cover  over  with  more  wafer- 
paper.  Put  the  lid  on  the  case  with  a  heavy  weight  on  top  so  as  to  push  the 
nougat  close  down,  let  it  remain  for  about  ten  minutes,  turn  it  out  of  the  case, 
divide  it  into  long  squares,  cutting  it  in  pieces  with  the  aid  of  a  crescent-shaped 
cleaving-knife. 


Nougat   Baskets. 


Blanch  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  almonds,  cut  them  into  shavings,  and  place 
them  near  the  fire  to  be  thoroughly  dried  and  warmed  through.  Put  three-fourths  of  a 
pound  of  the  best  confectioner's  sugar  over  a  moderate  fire  with  just  enough  water  to 
keep  it  from  burning,  keep  stirring  it  till  the  sugar  begins  to  bubble,  then  stir  in  the 
almonds,  mixing  them  well  with  the  sugar.  Have  ready  some  well-oiled  shallow 
moulds,  line  them  with  the  nougat,  trim  the  edges  nicely  with  a  good-sized  pair  of 
scissors,  notch  the  edges,  and  when  the  nougat  is  quite  cold,  take  them  out  of  the 
shapes  and  fill  up  with  whipped  cream,  laying  a  strawberry  on  top.  Small  handles 
made  of  candy  may  be  put  across  each. 

(2).  Blanch  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  cut  them  into  long 
strips,  and  dry  thoroughly  in  a  warm  oven  for  five  or  six  hours.  Take  half  the  weight 
of  the  almonds  (when  they  are  dry)  of  sugar,  put  it  into  a  sugar  pan,  add  the  juice  of 
two  lemons,  and  stir  it  well  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  all  dissolved.  Boil  quickly 
for  a  few  minutes  but  without  letting  it  take  color.  Remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of 
the  fire  and  add  the  almonds.  Have  ready  a  basket  mould  in  three  parts,  oil  well  and 
spread  the  mixture  quickly  over,  thinly  but  evenly,  seeing  that  it  is  quite  cool  before 
taking  it  off  the  mould.  Spread  a  charlotte  mould  over  with  the  remainder  of  the 
paste,  and  fix  it  firmly  upside  down  on  a  dish.  Fix  the  bottom  part  of  the  basket  on 


820  CONFECTIONERY. 

the  charlotte  mould,  and  adorn  the  upper  edge  of  the  basket,  first  with  a  border  of 
puff  paste,  baked  lightly,  and  then  with  a  circle  of  preserved  green  gages  glazed  with 
sugar,  fixing  two  rings  of  gum  paste  for  handles.  Surround  the  base  of  the  mould 
with  a  circle  of  small  cakes,  fill  the  hollow  of  the  basket  with  vanilla  ice-cream  and  it 
is  ready  for  use.  This  makes  a  handsome  table  ornament,  but  requires  great  experi- 
ence to  prepare. 

Honey   Nougat. 

Place  a  pound  and  a  half  each  of  sugar  and  strained  honey  in  a  saucepan  over  a 
very  gentle  fire,  and  stir  it  until  quite  brittle,  which  can  be  found  out  by  putting  a 
little  cold  water  in  the  sugar.  Add  the  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs  and  stir  them  in. 
If  the  mixture  is  not  sticky  stir  in  a  little  flavoring  of  orange  essence,  and  then  mix 
in  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  dried;  blend  it  all  well  together 
and  spread  it  two  inches  thick  on  oiled  papers;  lay  it  between  two  boards,  put  a 
heavy  weight  on  top  and  leave  until  quite  cold.  Then  cut  in  strips. 


Nougat  with   Apricots. 


Roll  out  one-half  pound  of  puff  paste  to  one-sixteenth  inch  in  thickness  and 
bake.  When  quite  cold  spread  over  apricot  jam  to  about  an  inch  in  thickness. 
Meanwhile  put  one-half  pound  of  well-chopped  and  dried  sweet  almonds  into  a  basin 
with  eight  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  snow, 
mix  them  thoroughly  and  spread  the  mixture  over  the  jam.  Put  the  sheet  of  paste, 
etc.,  into  a  moderate  oven  and  let  it  remain  until  firm  and  slightly  browned.  Take  it 
out,  and  when  quite  cold  cut  it  into  pieces  or  squares;  put  them  on  a  napkin  spread 
over  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Pistachio    Paste. 

Blanch,  drain  and  put  into  a  mortar  one  pound  of  pistachios,  pound  them  to  a 
pulp,  adding  a  little  orange-flower  water  to  prevent  oiling,  after  which  rub  them 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve  onto  a  plate.  Put  one  ounce  of  gum  tragacanth  previously 
well  soaked  and  squeeze  through  a  cloth  on  a  marble  slab  and  work  it  with  the  hand 
until  it  is  of  a  white  and  elastic  appearance,  when  it  may  be  mixed  in  with  the 
pistachio  pulp  and  half  a  pound  of  finely-sifted  icing  sugar,  beating  thoroughly  all 
the  while  and  adding  more  of  the  sugar  until  the  paste  becomes  quite  firm,  compact, 
and  elastic. 

Brazil-Nuts   Pralines. 

Put  one  pound  of  shelled  Brazil-nuts  into  a  pan  over  the  fire  with  a  little  water 
and  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  and  let  them  boil  until  they  begin  to  sparkle,  then  re- 
move the  pan  from  the  fire  and  with  a  wooden  spoon  stir  the  nuts  well  until  the  sugar 
begins  to  feel  gritty;  put  them  over  a  slow  fire  in  order  to  dissolve  the  sugar  again 


CONFECTIONERY.  821 

and  keep  on  stirring  that  the  nuts  may  get  well  covered  with  sugar,  and  when  they 
turn  reddish  and  are  sufficiently  well  covered  with  sugar  take  from  the  fire,  pour  them 
onto  a  sieve,  cover  the  sieve  with  a  clean  cloth  and  place  it  in  the  oven;  this  will  dry 
the  sugar  on  the  nuts  and  cause  them  to  look  glossy. 

Colored   Sugars. 

Rub  the  required  quantity  of  powdered  sugar  through  a  fine  sieve  onto  a  piece 
of  paper,  turn  it  into  a  round-bottomed  pan,  place  it  on  the  stove  to  warm,  stir  it  well 
until  the  sugar  is  nearly  dry,  turn  it  out,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Flavored  Sugar. 

Rub  the  required  quantity  of  powdered  sugar  through  a  fine  sieve  on  a  sheet  of 
paper,  turn  it  into  a  round-bottomed  pan,  set  it  on  the  stove  to  warm,  and  whisk  in 
any  kind  of  flavoring  essence  desired. 

Sugared  Flowers. 

Boil  some  sugar  to  the  crack  degree.  If,  when  a  fork  is  dipped  into  the  pan,  it 
throws  off  the  sugar  as  fine  as  threads  when  taken  out,  it  is  ready,  and  the  flowers 
may  be  put  in.  Rub  the  inside  of  some  teacups  with  salad-oil,  and  put  into  each  cup 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  flowers  and  sugar;  let  them  stand  until  cold,  turn  them  out, 
and  serve  piled  one  on  top  of  the  other. 


Preserves,   Jams,   Etc. 

Almond   Milk. 

When  almonds,  either  bitter  or  sweet,  are  pounded  together,  and  water  added, 
the  liquor  resulting  is  of  a  milky  appearance,  and  is  commonly  known  as  "almond 
milk."  Mix  four  ounces  of  almonds  to  every  pint  of  water,  straining  over  half  a 
pound  of  fine  sugar,  boil  up  once,  and  put  in  bottles  for  future  use.  This  prepara- 
tion will  keep  good  for  a  week. 

Bottled  Red  Currants. 

Pick  from  the  stalks  some  currants  barely  ripe,  and  of  the  red  variety;  pack 
them  very  closely  into  bottles,  fill  up  the  bottles  with  twenty-two  degree  syrup. 
Place  them  in  a  pan  with  hot  water,  and  let  their  contents  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Then 
take  the  bottles  out  of  the  water,  cork  them,  and  when  cold  they  are  ready  for  storing. 

Bottled    Fruits. 

For  every  pound  of  fruit  allow  six  ounces  of  coarsely  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  half 
a  teacupful  of  water.  Prepare  the  fruit  by  removing  the  stalks,  etc.,  put  it  into  a  pan 
with  the  sugar  and  water,  and  boil  it  over  a  slow  fire  for  ten  minutes.  Warm  some 
wide-mouthed  glass  bottles  near  the  fire,  then  dip  a  thin  stick  in  sulphur,  light  it,  and 
hold  a  bottle  mouth  downwards  over  it,  The  bottle  will  become  full  of  smoke,  and 
by  this  means  all  the  air  in  it  will  be  exhausted.  Fill  the  bottles  at  once  with  the 
fruit,  smoking  each  bottle  first  and  then  filling  it.  Cork  the  bottle  air-tight  and  place 
in  a  dry  cupboard. 

Bottled   Greengages. 

Select  greengages  that  are  not  too  ripe,  make  small  holes  all  over  them,  put  them 
in  wide-mouthed  bottles,  fill  the  bottles  with  thin  syrup,  cork  and  tie  down;  place 
them  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  bring  it  gently  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  until  the  fruit 
turns  brown.  Remove  from  the  fire,  leave  the  bottles  in  the  water  for  a  day,  boil 
again  for  ten  minutes,  and  the  fruit  is  ready  for  use. 


Bottled    Pineapple. 


Peel  the  rind  smoothly  and  carefully  off  some  pineapples,  pick  out  all  the  discol- 
ored  parts,  and  cut  off  the   heads   and  stalks.     Cut  the  pines   in  slices,   and  pack 

822 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  823 

them  closely  in  wide-mouthed  bottles  or  glass  jars;  fill  each  one  with  syrup  boiled  to 
the  twenty-six  degree;  cork  them,  and  tie  down.  Put  the  bottles  in  a  saucepan  of  water, 
placing  straw  round  them  to  prevent  their  knocking  together  and  breaking,  and  boil 
them  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  remove  from  the  fire,  and  leave  the  bottles  in 
the  water  until  cold,  dip  the  ends  in  bottle-wax,  and  store  them  away  for  use. 

Bottled  Plums. 

Select  the  required  quantity  of  plums,  prick  them  all  over  and  drop  them  into  a 
preserving-pan  with  some  syrup  of  thirty-two  degrees  just  removed  from  the  fire;  when 
the  plums  are  all  in,  put  the  pan  on  a  hot  screen  or  over  a  charcoal  fire,  until  the 
syrup  has  become  quite  hot,  then  take  out  the  plums  carefully,  put  them  in  a  basin, 
and  let  them  remain  there  for  twenty-four  hours  or  so;  then  put  them  into  wide- 
mouthed  bottles  and  boil  up  the  syrup  again,  skim  it  thoroughly  and  when  it-  has  be- 
come nearly  cold,  pour  it  into  the  bottles  over  the  plums;  cork  the  bottles,  tie  down 
well,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  water  to  the  beginning  of  the  necks  of  the 
bottles,  boil  for  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  when  cold,  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Bottled    Raspberries. 

Remove  the  stems  and  unsound  berries  from  the  fruit,  put  the  fruit  into  bottles, 
and  pour  over  sufficient  syrup  at  twenty-six  degrees  to  fill  them,  place  the  bottles  in  a 
large  saucepan  with  water  to  half  their  height,  and  simmer  gently  for  five  minutes. 
Allow  the  bottles  to  cool,  pour  off  all  the  syrup  into  a  sugar-boiler,  and  turn  the  fruit 
from  one  bottle  into  that  of  another,  so  as  to  have  two  lots  in  one  bottle.  Add  to 
the  syrup  one-fourth  of  its  bulk  in  raspberry  juice,  boil  up  once,  skim  it  well,  pour  it 
into  the  bottles  over  the  fruit,  cork  them  down  when  cold,  and  the  raspberries  are 
then  ready  for  use. 

Bottled   Strawberries. 

Remove  the  stalks  from  some  freshly-gathered  ripe  strawberries,  put  them  in 
wide-mouthed  glass  bottles,  and  fill  them  up  with  syrup  that  has  been  boiled  to  twenty- 
six  degrees  (see  Sugar  Boiling) ;  put  the  bottles,  without  corking  them,  into  a  large 
saucepan,  put  in  cold  water  to  half  their  height,  and  stand  the  saucepan  over  the  fire. 
When  boiling,  move  the  saucepan,  with  the  bottles,  from  the  fire,  and  leave  them  to 
cool  a  little.  Strain  the  syrup  off  the  strawberries  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  one- 
fourth  of  the  quantity  of  strained  red  currant  juice,  boil  it  up  and  skim  it.  Fill  up  the 
bottles  with  the  fruit  by  emptying  one  bottle  into  another,  then  fill  them  up  with 
syrup.  Cork  the  bottles,  tie  them  down,  and  keep  in  a  dry  store  cupboard. 

Brandied    Fruits. 

Take  equal  quantities  of  ripe  and  sound  fruit,  such  as  apricots,  peaches  and 
plums,  and  prick  them  several  times  with  a  fork  through  to  the  stones.  Put  loaf 


824  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

sugar  in  a  lined  vessel,  allowing  one  pound  of  sugar  to  one  pound  of  fruit,  pour  in  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  just  about  as  much  as  the  sugar  will  absorb,  and  place  it 
over  the  fire  until  small  transparent  bubbles  rise  to  the  top.  Put  the  mixed  fruits  into 
the  syrup,  and  simmer  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  just  beginning  to  soften,  then 
take  it  off,  as  the  fruits  must  still  remain  firm.  Leave  them  in  the  syrup  until  cold, 
or  until  the  following  day,  then  take  them  out,  and  place  on  a  wire-sieve  to  drain. 
Boil  the  syrup  until  somewhat  thickly  reduced,  and,  when  it  is  cold,  mix  with  it  an 
equal  quantity  of  pale  brandy.  Place  the  fruit  in  jars  or  glasses,  and  pour  the  syrup 
over  them. 

Apple    Brandy. 

Apple  brandy  is  a  spirit  made  wholesale  in  the  United  States  from  apples,  and  is 
more  familiarly  known  as  Apple  Jack.  To  five  barrels  of  good  rectified  spirit,  add 
one  gallon  of  syrup  of  gum-arabic,  one  pound  of  oil  of  apple  and  half  a  pound  of  oil 
of  pear.  Let  it  remain  for  some  time  in  the  barrel,  then  stir  well,  and  filter. 

Apricot   Brandy. 

Mix  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  little  water  with  every  two  dozen  apricots 
used;  boil  up  and  then  remove  and  place  in  jars,  and  when  cold,  fill  them  up  with 
brandy.  Cover  over  securely  and  allow  them  to  remain  for  several  days,  when  they 
are  ready  for  use.  They  may  be  carefully  and  thinly  peeled  before  putting  into  the 
syrup,  although  this  is  not  generally  done. 

Brandy    Peaches. 

Split  some  large  peaches  in  halves,  put  them  in  a  lined-pan  with  some  syrup  and 
boil  for  two  or  three  minutes;  then  take  them  out,  peel  the  skins  off,  put  them  back 
again  in  the  same  syrup  and  let  them  simmer  for  five  minutes;  then  take  the  pan  off 
the  fire  and  leave  peaches  in  it  till  the  next  day.  Drain  the  peaches  and  arrange 
them  carefully  in  jars.  Boil  their  syrup  to  the  feather  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling), 
then  mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  white  brandy,  and  when  nearly  cold,  pour  it 
over  the  peaches.  When  the  syrup  is  quite  cold,  cork  the  jars  and  tie  bladders  over 
the  tops.  Keep  them  in  a  cool  place. 

Plums   in    Brandy. 

Use  eight  pounds  of  half  ripe  plums,  prick  them  all  over  and  place  over  the 
fire  in  cold  water  as  soon  as  the  water  boils  and  the  fruit  rises  to  the  surface,  take  out 
with  a  skimmer  and  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water.  Then  clarify  two  pounds  of 
loaf  sugar,  boil  it  to  the  little  thread,  put  in  the  plums  and  boil,  then  remove  them 
from  the  pan  and  let  them  stand  in  their  syrup  over  night.  The  next  day  take  them 
out  of  the  syrup,  boil  this  once  and  put  the  plums  in  again  and  boil  once  more,  then 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  825 

let  them  stand  all  night.  Repeat  this  operation  the  next  day  and  the  following  day, 
drain  the  plums  and  put  them  into  bottles,  boil  the  syrup  to  candy  height,  let  it  cool, 
and  when  quite  cold,  add  to  it  three-fourths  of  its  own  quantity  of  the  best  brandy, 
mix  thoroughly  with  the  syrup,  strain  it  and  pour  it  over  the  plums.  Cork  the  bot- 
tles thoroughly. 

Prunes  in  Brandy. 

Pack  the  plums  in  layers  in  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  strewing  a  liberal  quantity 
of  powdered  sugar  over  each  layer;  fill  it  up  with  the  best  brandy,  cork,  and  stand 
the  bottle  in  the  corner  on  a  warm  stove.  After  a  few  hours  time,  remove  the  bottle, 
and  after  letting  it  stand  for  a  short  time,  the  plums  are  ready  for  use,  although  they 
are  somewhat  improved  by  longer  keeping. 

Raspberry  Brandy. 

Blanch  about  twenty  bitter  almonds,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces.  Pick  care- 
fully over  two  pounds  of  ripe  raspberries  to  remove  all  the  stems  and  leaves,  and  place 
them  in  a  quart  bottle  with  the  almonds  and  one  pound  of  crushed  sugar.  Fill  the 
bottle  up  with  brandy  and  cork  it  tightly,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  place  for  a  month. 
Shake  the  bottle  occasionally,  If  possible  the  bottle  should  be  exposed  to  the  sun. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  it  may  be  removed  to  a  dry  store-cupboard.  The  brandy 
ought  to  be  kept  ten  or  twelve  months  before  it  is  used. 

Candied  Nectarines. 

Cut  the  nectarines  to  extract  the  stones,  put  the  fruit  in  a  pan  with  half  their 
weight  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  one  gill  of  water  to  each  pound  of  sugar;  boil  over 
a  good  fire  until  the  syrup  is  clear,  carefully  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises.  Skim 
out  the  nectarines,  put  them  on  flat  dishes,  cover,  and  let  them  remain  for  a  day. 
Put  the  pan  with  the  sugar  over  the  fire  and  boil  until  it  is  thick,  then  add  the  fruit 
and  boil  slowly  until  quite  hot.  Take  them  out  again,  put  them  on  a  dish  and  let 
them  remain  for  one  day  longer.  Boil  the  syrup  again,  add  the  fruit,  and  let  it  re- 
main for  a  short  time.  Place  them  on  a  sieve  to  dry,  sprinkle  them  over  with 
powdered  sugar  turning  frequently  until  dry  and  candied  when  they  will  be  fit  for 
use.  Candied  nectarines  will  keep  for  some  time. 

Candied  or  Crystallized  Nuts. 

Put  one  breakfast  cupful  of  sugar  and  same  of  water  into  a  sugar  boiler,  and  boil 
to  the  crack  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling).  Put  the  boiler  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water  to  keep  the  syrup  hot,  and  dip  in  the  required  quantity  of  blanched  nuts,  stick- 
ing them  on  the  point  of  a  needle,  or  thin  skewer  to  do  so;  then  put  them  on  a 
slightly  buttered  dish  and  let  them  cool.  If  not  sufficiently  coated  with  the  syrup, 
dip  them  again.  When  dry  they  are  ready  to  serve. 


826  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Candied   Pears. 

Peel  and  core  some  pears  and  let  them  simmer  in  syrup,  with  a  little  lemon  juice 
in  it,  for  ten  minutes;  turn  the  pears  out,  pour  the  syrup  over  them,  cover  the  basin 
and  leave  them  till  next  day.  Strain  the  syrup  off  the  pears,  boil  it  and  pour  over 
them  again.  Repeat  this  operation  the  two  following  days,  giving  in  all  four  boilings. 
Drain  the  pears  on  a  cane  sieve,  then,  when  quite  free  from  moisture,  put  them  a  little 
apart  from  each  other  on  wire  trays,  rest  them  on  dishes  and  put  them  in  a  screen  at 
a  slow  heat  to  dry  them.  Take  the  pears  off  the  trays  when  cold  and  dry  and  pack 
them  in  boxes  lined  with  white  paper 

Candied    Plums. 

Stone  and  cut  in  halves  some  good  plums  of  a  nice  shape,  lay  them  in  a  shallow 
dish,  dredge  plenty  of  powdered  sugar  over  and  put  in  a  moderate  oven,  keeping  the 
door  closed  for  half  an  hour;  then  remove  and  lay  the  plums  separately  on  glass 
plates  to  dry. 

Strawberry    Conserve. 

Take  some  fresh  and  very  ripe  strawberries,  pick  them  over,  crush  them  in  a 
cloth  and  wring  out  the  juice.  To  each  dessertspoonful  of  juice  allow  six  ounces  of 
sugar.  Boil  the  sugar  to  the  pearl  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  then  remove  it  from 
the  fire  and  pour  the  juice  into  it,  and,  if  necessary,  a  little  carmine.  Stir  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  the  conserve  begins  to  get  dry  and  white,  then  put  it  into  moulds 
or  paper  cases. 

Dried    Grape    Fruit. 

Cut  the  fruit  into  seven  or  eight  pieces  lengthwise,  pick  out  the  pips,  place  the 
fruit  in  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  water  and  boil  until  it  becomes  soft.  Put  the 
pieces  on  a  sieve  and  drain  them  well;  then  put  them  into  a  pan  with  some  syrup  at 
twenty-eight  degrees  and  let  them  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Turn  the  fruit  with  the 
syrup  into  a  basin  and  leave  them.  On  the  following  day  strain  the  syrup  off  the 
fruit,  boil  it  up  again  and  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  Repeat  the  same  operation  on  the 
three  following  days.  On  the  fourth  day  arrange  the  pieces  of  fruit  on  a  wire  tray 
and  place  them  in  the  screen  to  dry.  Dip  the  pieces  of  fruit  into  grained  sugar,  ar- 
range them  a  short  distance  from  each  other  on  the  tray,  and  put  them  again  in  the 
screen.  When  thoroughly  dry  lift  the  fruit  from  the  screen  by  pushing  the  fingers 
through  underneath,  for  by  doing  it  in  this  way  it  is  not  so  likely  to  break  the  sugar. 
Pack  the  fruit  for  preserving  between  layers  of  cardboard  in  paper  boxes. 

Dried   Greengages. 

Select  some  perfectly  sound  greengages,  cut  off  the  brown  end  of  the  stalks  but 
leave  the  remainder  on;  prick  them  all  over  with  a  pin,  then  put  them  in  a  pan  with  suf- 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  827 

ficient  syrup  of  twenty-two  degrees  for  them  to  float;  set  them  over  a  smothered  fire  and 
leave  for  ten  minutes.  Turn  the  greengages  and  syrup  into  a  large  jar  and  cover 
them  with  vine  leaves.  On  the  following  day  strain  off  the  syrup,  boil  up  again, 
skim  it  and  pour  it  back  on  the  greengages.  Repeat  the  operation  of  boiling  for  the 
two  following  days.  Take  the  greengages  out  of  the  syrup  and  lay  them  a  short 
distance  from  each  other  on  a  wire  drainer  placed  on  a  baking-sheet;  put  them  in  a 
screen  and  dry  them  slowly.  Boil  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  to  the  pearl  degree, 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  work  it  against  the  sides  of  the  pan  with  the  bowl 
of  a  spoon  until  it  has  a  dull  white  appearance,  then  throw  in  the  dried  greengages. 
Toss  them  about  to  give  them  a  good  coating,  then  lift  them  carefully  out  with  a 
fork  and  place  on  the  drainer,  the  stalk  side  upward.  Dry  the  greengages  slowly  in 
a  screen,  then  pack  them  away  in  boxes  between  layers  of  paper 

Dried    Peaches. 

Cut  some  peaches  into  halves  and  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  some  syrup 
at  twenty-two  degrees;  let  them  simmer  for  a  few  minutes  till  the  skins  can  be  easily  re- 
moved; take  them  out,  peel,  and  put  them  back  in  the  syrup;  boil  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  turn  all  into  a  basin  and  let  it  remain  till  the  following  day.  Drain  the  syrup 
off  the  peaches,  boil  it  up  again,  then  pour  it  over  them.  Repeat  this  for  the  two 
following  days.  Put  the  peaches  on  drainers,  dip  a  camel's  hair-brush  in  prepared 
cochineal  or  carmine,  paint  the  peaches  lightly  over  and  set  them  in  the  screen  to 
dry.  Boil  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  sugar  to  the  pearl  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling), 
drain  the  juice  of  a  lemon  in  with  it  and  work  the  sugar  at  the  side  of  the  pan  with  a 
spoon  until  it  becomes  whitish,  then  put  in  the  peaches  and  shake  them  gently  about. 
Take  each  piece  out  with  a  fork,  arrange  them  on  a  brass  drainer  and  set  them  in  the 
screen  at  a  moderate  heat  to  dry.  In  about  an  .hour's  time,  pack  the  peaches  in  card- 
board boxes  with  a  sheet  of  white  paper  between  each  layer. 

Dried    Pineapple. 

Peel  and  cut  out  any  discolored  parts  of  a  pineapple,  cut  them  in  slices  one- 
fourth  inch  thick,  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  some  syrup  at  twenty-two  degrees 
and  let  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Put  the  pineapple  and  syrup  in  a  white-lined  pan  and 
leave  them  till  the  following  day.  Strain  the  syrup  off,  boil  it  and  pour  it  over  the 
pineapple  again.  Proceed  in  the  same  way  the  two  following  days.  On  the  fourth 
day  take  the  slices  from  the  syrup,  drain  them  well  and  put  them  apart  from  each 
other  on  wire  trays.  Stand  the  trays  in  dishes  to  catch  the  dripping  and  array  these 
in  the  screen.  When  dry,  remove,  and  when  cold,  pack  in  boxes  between  sheets  of 
white  paper. 

Ginger  Sugar. 

Put  in  a  mortar  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  with  two  ounces  of  ground  ginger, 
mix  well,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  bottle,  cork  down  tightly,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


828  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 


Apple  Ginger. 


Take  an  equal  quantity  of  apples  and  sugar,  adding  some  water  to  make  a  syrup. 
Chop  the  apples  very  fine  with  a  little  green  ginger,  or  if  the  green  ginger  is  not 
available,  use  the  dry.  Put  this  mince  into  the  syrup,  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  few 
lemons,  and  boil  slowly  for  two  hours,  or  until  it  has  a  clear  appearance. 


Grapes  Glazed  with  Sugar. 


Boil  some  syrup  as  for  candying;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 
Divide  a  few  bunches  of  grapes  into  clusters,  dip  them  into  the  candy,  and  lay  them 
until  dry  on  dishes  slightly  greased. 


American  Crab-Apple  Jam. 


After  removing  all  stalks  and  unsound  parts  from  the  fruit,  wipe  them  well,  and 
spread  out  before  the  fire  to  make  sure  that  the  peels  are  thoroughly  dried.  Then 
weigh  the  fruit  and  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan,  together  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
preserving-sugar,  and  enough  white  wine  to  moisten.  Allow  this  to  boil  well,  skim 
well,  and  while  it  is  boiling,  put  in  a  few  pieces  of  lemon  peel,  chopped,  or  a  small 
quantity  of  cloves,  and  continue  boiling  until  the  fruit  begins  to  break,  then  place  it 
in  large  glass  jars.  Tie  down  when  cold. 


Apple  Jam. 


Take  some  good  apples;  pare  and  core  them,  cutting  into  small  pieces,  and  put 
in  a  preserving-pan  with  enough  water  to  coveff  them.  Boil  until  they  are  reduced  to 
a  pulp,  then  pass  through  a  hair-sieve.  Use  one  pound  of  pulp  to  every  twelve 
ounces  of  preserving-sugar,  and  boil  and  skim  until  no  more  scum  arises,  and  place 
in  pots.  When  cold,  cover  with  paper  and  seal  with  brandy-soaked  paper  cut  to  fit 
the  inside  of  the  pots.  Tie  over  with  paper  in  the  usual  way. 


Cherry  Jam. 


Select  for  this  fairly  ripe  fruit.  Make  a  small  hole  in  each  and  remove  the  stone, 
breaking  the  cherry  as  little  as  possible.  Add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  preserv- 
ing sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit.  Put  them  into  a  preserving  pan,  place  it  on  a  good 
fire  and  boil,  stirring  it  constantly  from  the  start.  Allow  it  to  boil  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  then  take  out  a  little  and  place  it  on  a  cold  plate  to  test.  If  it  jellies  or 
sets,  the  jam  is  done  and  must  be  put  into  jars  at  once.  Remove  the  jars  to  a  cool 
place  and  tie  them  down.  It  will  not  be  necessary  to  skim  the  jam  while  it  is  boil- 
ing, as  all  the  scum  will  boil  away. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  829 

Cherry  Jam   Made  Without  Sugar. 

Remove  the  stems  from  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cherries,  Wipe  them  with  a  cloth 
to  free  them  from  all  dust,  and  remove  the  stones.  Break  the  stones,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes.  Strain  the 
liquor  from  the  stones  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  put  it  back  into  the  saucepan  with 
the  fruit  and  boil  the  whole  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  thick  jam,  stirring  at  the  same 
time  with  a  wooden  spoon;  a  little  cinnamon  and  powdered  cloves  may  be  added  to 
the  jam  if  the  flavor  is  liked.  When  sufficiently  reduced — that  is,  when  the  jam  is 
boiled  to  a  thick  pulp — place  it  in  the  jars.  Leave  it  until  cold  and  then  cover  with 
a  thin  round  of  paper  dipped  in  brandy  and  then  with  a  larger  round  tied  firmly  round 
the  pots.  This  jam  will  keep  for  several  months. 

Cranberry  Jam. 

Take  a  quantity  of  berries,  wash  them  thoroughly  and  allow  their  weight  in 
sugar.  Put  the  sugar  with  water — about  one-half  pint  of  water  to  each  one  pound  of 
berries — into  a  preserving-pan,  set  it  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  con- 
stantly and  skimming  off  the  froth  all  the  time.  Add  the  berries  and  finish  boiling 
until  they  are  quite  soft  and  of  a  good  color.  When  done  warm  some  glasses  or 
jars,  put  in  the  preserves  and  tie  down  with  some  pieces  of  paper  steeped  in  brandy 
laid  on  the  top  of  each.  The  jars  should  be  opened  only  when  wanted  and  be  re-cov- 
ered if  all  is  not  required  at  once,  as  exposure  to  the  air  spoils  the  jam. 


Currant  Jam. 

Put  one  pound  each  of  black,  red  and  white  currants  into  a  preserving-pan  and 
boil  for  a  few  minutes;  then  add  two  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  and  boil  all 
together,  crushing  the  fruit  with  a  wooden  spoon;  after  boiling  gently  for  half  an 
hour,  fill  the  jars  with  the  jam,  cover  over  and  put  away  for  use. 

Black   Currant  Jam. 

Remove  the  currants  from  the  stalks,  taking  care  that  they  are  quite  clean  and 
fully  ripe.  The  currants  should  be  gathered  in  dry  weather.  Put  them  in  a  preserv- 
ing-pot with  powdered  white  sugar  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound 
of  currants.  Set  the  pan  over  the  fire  and  boil,  stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  burn- 
ing ;  cook  for  half  an  hour  and  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises,  then  take  the  pan  from 
the  fire  and  when  the  jam  has  cooled  a  little,  put  it  into  pots.  When  quite  cold 
lay  over  the  pots  pieces  of  white  paper  soaked  in  brandy,  and  cover  so  as  to  keep 
them  air-tight. 


830  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Red   Currant  Jam. 

Pick  from  the  stalks  some  ripe  red  currants,  weigh  them,  and  to  every  pound  of 
currants  allow  one  pound  of  sugar ;  place  the  mixture  on  the  stove,  not  over  too  hot  a 
fire,  stirring  occasionally  until  it  boils,  and  removing  the  scum  as  fast  as  it  arises.  Let 
the  jam  cool  a  little,  put  into  jars,  and  cover  when  quite  cool. 

Red  and  White   Currant  Jam. 

Select  fruit  that  has  been  carefully  picked,  remove  the  stalks,  weigh,  and  put  into 
a  preserving-pan  with  an  equal  weight  of  preserving-sugar,  and  boil  for  nine  minutes. 
Pour  the  jam  into  jars  and  cover  with  paper  soaked  in  brandy,  and  then  with  a 
bladder  or  prepared  paper. 

Gooseberry  Jam. 

Weigh  out  seven  pounds  of  gooseberries,  wipe  them  well  with  a  cloth,  cut  off 
the  stalks  and  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  seven  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  pint 
of  water,  and  boil  over  a  clear  fire.  When  the  gooseberries  are  soft,  remove  the  scum 
that  forms  at  the  top,  pour  them  into  jam  jars,  cover  them  first  with  paper  dipped  in 
brandy  and  then  with  bladder  or  parchment  paper,  tie  down  tightly,  and  keep  them 
in  a  dry  cupboard  until  needed. 

Grape  Jam. 

Take  the  required  quantity  of  ripe  grapes,  remove  the  stalks,  and  wipe  them  with 
a  damp  cloth  to  free  them  of  any  impurities,  then  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
stew  over  a  gentle  fire  until  reduced  to  a  soft  pulp.  Pass  the  pulp  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve,  weigh  it,  and  return  it  to  the  preserving-pan  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar.  Stir  the  jam.  over  the  fire,  and  boil  it  for  about  twenty 
minutes  longer.  When  ready,  turn  the  jam  into  jars,  leave  it  until  cold,  then  put  in 
each  jar  a  round  of  brandied  paper,  cover  them  with  parchment,  and  tie  down.  Keep 
in  a  dry  cupboard. 

Grape    Fruit  Jam. 

Cut  the  fruit  into  halves  and  squeeze  the  juice  into  a  basin,  then  place  the  rinds, 
having  first  removed  the  pips  into  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  water,  and  boil  them  until 
soft,  then  drain  and  steep  them  in  cold  water  for  several  hours.  Next  drain  all  the 
water  off  the  rinds,  scrape  the  insides  to  remove  all  the  white  pith,  and  cut  them  into 
shreds.  Put  into  a  pan  one  pound  of  sugar  for  each  pound  of  fruit,  and  boil  it  to  the 
feather  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  then  put  in  the  shredded  peel,  and  the  juice 
strained  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Boil  the  fruit  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes, 
stirring  constantly,  and  then  turn  it  into  jars.  When  the  jam  is  cold,  dip  some  round 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  831 

pieces  of  paper  cut  to  the  size  of  the  jars  into  brandy,  put  them  over   the  fruit,  then 
cover  each  jar  with  parchment,  and  tie  down  securely. 

Greengage  Jam. 

Select  sound  ripe  greengages,  split  them  down  the  sides  and  remove  the  stones; 
put  the  fruit  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  little  water,  stew  them  until  quite  tender,  then 
rub  the  fruit  through  a  sieve,  put  the  pulp  in  the  preserving-pan  again,  and  for  every 
six  pounds  of  fruit,  put  in  four  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar.  Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon 
and  boil  very  fast,  skimming  off  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When  the  jam  drops  from  the 
spoon  like  a  thick  jelly,  it  is  done.  Fill  jars  with  it,  let  it  cool,  then  cover  with 
rounds  of  writing  paper,  dipped  in  brandy,  and  then  with  bladder.  This  jam  should 
be  kept  in  a  dry  cupboard  until  wanted. 

Nectarine  Jam. 

Peel  the  nectarines,  cut  them  in  halves,  crack  the  stones,  then  blanch  and  cut  the 
kernels  into  small  pieces.  Put  the  pieces  and  broken  stones  into  a  saucepan  with 
one-half  pint  of  water  for  every  pound  of  the  fruit,  and  boil  till  reduced  to  one-half 
its  quantity,  then  strain  the  liquor.  Place  the  fruit  in  a  preserving-pan,  and  add  an 
equal  weight  of  granulated  sugar.  Add  the  liquor  from  the  stones  and  kernels  with 
eight  blanched  and  chopped  bitter  almonds  for  each  one-fourth  pound  of  kernels. 
Place  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  the  contents  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  reduced 
to  a  stiff  consistency.  Turn  the  jam  into  jars,  and  leave  for  several  hours  until  quite 
cold,  then  sift  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  over  the  top  of  each,  cover  with  rounds  of 
white  paper  that  have  been  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  tie  round  the  jars  with  twine,  and 
pack  them  away  for  use. 

Peach  Jam. 

Procure  ripe  clingstone  peaches,  peel  them,  crack  the  stones  and  blanch  the  kernels. 
Put  the  kernels  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them  well.  Put  the  skins  and  broken  stones  in 
a  pan  with  twice  the  quantity  of  water  required  for  the  jam,  and  boil  it  till  reduced 
one-half.  Then  strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  the  peaches  in  a  pre- 
serving-pan with  the  pounded  kernels,  and  for  every  pound  of  fruit  put  in  one  pound 
of  preserving-sugar,  and  a  teacupful  of  the  liquor  from  the  stones,  etc.  Boil  the  mix- 
ture, keeping  it  well  stirred  until  reduced  to  a  stiff  consistency.  Fill  some  jars  with 
the  jam,  and  let  them  stand  until  the  following  day.  Then  sift  a  small  quantity  of 
fine  sugar  over  each,  cover  them  with  rounds  of  paper  that  have  been  dipped  in  beaten 
egg,  and  tie  round  with  twine.  Keep  the  jars  in  a  dry  store-cupboard  for  use. 

Pear     Jam. 

Peel  some  ripe  pears,  cut  them  into  quarters,  take  out  the  cores,  weigh  them, 
and  put  them  into  an  earthenware  jar,  packing  them  closely;  put  the  jar  into  a  sauce- 


832  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

pan  of  water  on  the  stove,  cover  the  jar  with  a  piece  of  strong  paper  tied  over,  and 
let  the  water  round  the  jar  boil  till  the  fruit  is  soft  enough  to  break,  then  put  the  same 
weight  of  sugar  as  there  is  of  fruit  on  the  stove  with  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  water  to 
each  pound  of  sugar,  and  boil  and  skim  till  it  is  a  clear  syrup;  put  the  fruit  into  it 
and  stir  till  it  boils,  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time;  then  let  it  get 
a  little  cool,  put  it  into  jars,  and  when  quite  cold,  cover  as  for  other  marmalades. 

Plum  Jam. 

Have  ready  twelve  pounds  of  large  ripe  plums  peeled  and  divided  into  halves, 
crack  their  stones,  blanch  the  kernels  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar.  Put  the  parings 
and  cracked  stones  into  a  pan  with  the  juice  of  some  very  red  beet-root,  which  has 
previously  been  pressed  out  in  a  mortar,  and  six  pints  of  water.  Boil  this  until  it  is 
reduced  to  half  the  original  quantity,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve;  put 
the  fruit  in  a  preserving-pan  with  the  strained  liquor  and  pounded  kernels,  and  thirteen 
and  one-half  pounds  of  coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar,  place  the  pan  over  a  moderate 
fire,  and  stir  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  stiff  jam,  then  turn  it  into  pots  and  let  it  stand  for 
several  hours;  when  quite  cold,  sift  into  each  jar  a  small  quantity  of  caster-sugar,  and 
cover  with  rounds  of  paper  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  tie  securely  and  put  them  away  for 
future  use. 

Pineapple  Jam. 

Select  pineapples  just  ripe,  peel  and  trim,  cutting  into  slices,  and  afterwards  into 
small  squares.  Weigh  the  fruit,  and  for  each  pound  allow  one  pound  of  caster-sugar. 
Place  the  fruit  in  a  preserving-pan,  stirring  it  constantly  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden 
spoon  until  .the  juices  are  all  extracted  and  quite  hot,  then  add  the  sugar  gradually, 
stirring  the  while  until  set;  turn  the  jam  into  jam-jars  and  leave  them  in  a  cool  place 
until  the  following  morning;  put  in  each  jar  a  round  of  brandied  paper,  cover  with 
parchment,  tie  down  and  put  away  in  a  dry  cupboard. 

Raspberry   and    Cherry  Jam. 

Put  eight  pounds  of  raspberries  into  a  preserving-pan  with  four  pounds  of  stoned 
cherries  and  boil  them  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  scum,  if  any  has  gathered, 
and  add  nine  pounds  of  sugar.  Boil  again  for  about  an  hour  or  until  the  jam  hangs 
from  the  spoon,  skim  it  again,  pour  it  into  pots,  cover  them  when  cold,  and  they  will 
be  ready  for  use. 

Rhubarb  Jam. 

Peel  and  trim  several  stalks  of  rhubarb,  weigh  them  and  allow  to  each  pound  of 
rhubarb  one  pound  of  sugar  and  one  lemon.  Take  a  large  bowl  and  pare  as  thin 
as  possible  the  yellow  rind  off  a  lemon  into  it;  then  cut  off  and  throw  away  the  white 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  833 

part  of  the  skin  and  slice  the  pulp  of  the  lemon  into  the  bowl,  taking  out  and  throw- 
ing away  the  seeds.  Cut  the  rhubarb  into  pieces  about  one-half  inch  thick,  place  it 
in  the  bowl  on  the  top  of  the  lemon  and  place  the  sugar  on  top  of  the  rhubarb,  al- 
lowing it  to  stand  all  night.  The  following  morning  empty  the  bowl  into  a  preserv- 
ing-pan, place  it  on  the  stove  and  let  it  boil  very  slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour; 
then  move  the  pan  from  the  stove,  let  the  jam  cool  a  little  and  put  it  into  jars.  When 
quite  cold  put  a  piece  of  white  paper  soaked  in  brandy  on  top  of  the  jam  in  each  jar, 
and  cover  so  as  to  keep  it  air-tight. 

Strawberry  Jam. 

Take  some  small  or  crushed  strawberries  being  careful  to  throw  out  all  the  de- 
cayed ones,  remove  the  hulls  and  see  that  the  fruit  is  clean.  Weigh  it  and  to  every 
two  pounds  of  fruit  add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  sugar.  Put  both  fruit  and  sugar 
into  a  preserving-pan  and  crush  it  slightly  with  a  masher  or  a  wooden  spoon.  Then 
put  the  pan  on  the  stove  and  let  it  get  hot  gradually  and  boil  a  little  of  the  jam  to 
put  to  cool  on  a  saucer,  which  jellies  as  it  cools.  It  ought  to  be  stirred  occasionally 
during  the  boiling  and  any  scum  that  arises  must  be  taken  off.  When  the  jam  is  done 
remove  the  pan  from  the  stove,  let  it  cool  a  little  and  put  into  jars.  When  quite  cold 
lay  a  piece  of  white  paper  soaked  in  brandy  on  the  top  of  each  jar  and  fasten  them 
with  a  cover  of  paper  dipped  in  the  slightly-beaten  white  of  egg.  Keep  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 


Carefully  pick  over  the  strawberries  and  half  the  quantity  of  raspberries;  put  the 
fruit  into  a  preserving-pan  and  boil  it  for  quarter  of  an  hour.  Skim  the  fruit  and 
mix  with  it  some  coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar,  using  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  every  pound  of  fruit.  Boil  the  mixture  for  an  hour,  or  until  it  coats  the  spoon, 
stirring  it  constantly  and  skimming  as  often  as  required.  Fill  some  jam  pots  with 
the  jam  and  leave  it  until  cold.  Cover  the  jars  with  paper  the  inner  side  of  which 
has  been  brushed  over  with  the  white  of  egg.  Keep  the  jam  in  a  dry  store-cupboard. 


Apple  Jelly. 


Pare,  core  and  slice  some  good  apples  into  a  preserving-pan  with  enough  water 
to  cover  them.  Place  on  the  fire  and  boil  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  mash,  then 
pour  the  mixture  into  a  flannel  bag  so  that  the  liquor  cannot  drain  off.  For  each 
pound  of  filtered  apple  juice  take  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  boil  and  remove  any  scum 
that  may  arise.  When  boiled  sufficiently  the  syrup  should  cling  to  the  wooden  spoon; 
or  a  little  dropped  on  a  cold  plate  should  set  soon.  Put  in  pots  and  tie  down  as 
with  jam. 


834  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Calf's-Feet  Jelly. 

Secure  an  unskinned  calf's  foot,  cut  it  through  the  joints,  chop  the  long  bone 
and  take  away  the  fat;  wash  it  well,  place  it  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water  and 
boil  for  ten  minutes.  Strain  off  the  water  and  wash  it  again.  Put  it  in  an  enamelled 
saucepan,  cover  it  entirely  with  cold  water  and  stew  it  gently  for  six  hours,  skimming 
it  constantly.  When  done,  drain  the  stock  into  a  basin,  allow  it  to  get  cold,  and  then 
skim  off  the  fat.  In  using  the  jelly  be  careful  not  to  mix  the  sediment  with  it. 

American    Crab-Apple  Jelly. 

Prepare  the  apples  by  removing  the  stems  and  unsound  parts,  if  any,  and  wipe 
them  dry;  cut  them  in  halves,  and  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan  with  enough  water 
to  cover  the  bottom.  When  the  fruit  is  quite  soft  pour  off  the  water,  and  for  every 
pint  allow  one  pound  of  preserving-sugar.  Place  this  in  a  preserving-pan  with  some 
slices  of  lemon-peel,  and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  half  an  hour  or  so,  removing  the  scum 
as  it  rises.  Have  one  ounce  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  some  water,  and  just  before  re- 
moving the  jelly  from  the  fire  stir  the  gelatine  in  rapidly.  Fill  some  moulds  or 
glasses  with  the  jelly,  and  place  them  on  ice  to  set.  It  will  keep  for  a  considerable 
time.  When  required  dip  the  mould  for  an  instant  in  hot  water,  wipe  dry  and  turn 
out  onto  a  glass  dish,  If  placed  in  jelly-glasses  they  can  be  served  in  them.  The 
fruit  may  be  used  for  a  number  of  other  purposes. 

Cranberry  Jelly. 

Wash  a  quantity  of  cranberries  thoroughly.  Measure  them,  and  to  every  quart 
add  one  pound  of  sugar  and  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water.  Put  this  in  a  preserving- 
pan,  and  place  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Then  pass  the 
jelly  through  a  strainer,  and  when  quite  cool  put  it  into  pots  ready  for  use. 

Black   Currant  Jelly. 

Pick  the  currants  and  pass  them  through  a  cane  sieve,  thus  obtaining  all  the 
juice.  Put  the  juice  in  a  preserving-pan,  boil  it  up,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  fine 
hair-sieve.  Weigh,  return  it  to  the  preserving-pan,  and  for  every  three  pounds  of 
currants  put  in  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar  that  has  been  boiled  down  to  a  strong 
blow  degree;  skim  the  liquor  and  boil  quickly  till  reduced  to  a  jelly  that  will  drop  from 
the  spoon  in  a  kind  of  congealed  state,  then  turn  it  into  small  glass  jars.  Cut  some 
round  pieces  of  white  paper  that  will  fit  inside  the  jars,  dip  them  in  brandy  and  lay 
one  carefully  in  each.  Soak  some  bullock's  bladder  in  water  until  it  becomes  elastic 
and  can  be  easily  stretched,  then  fit  a  small  piece  of  it  tightly  over  each  jar,  and  tie 
firmly  around  the  edges  with  strong  twine.  Keep  the  jars  of  jelly  in  a  dry  cupboard 
till  wanted. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  835 

Currant  Juice  Jelly. 

Put  an  ounce  of  gelatine  into  a  half  pint  of  cold  water,  and  soak  it  for  two  hours; 
then  pour  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water  over,  and  mix  until  it  is  dissolved;  add 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  loaf  sugar  very  finely  powdered,  and 
the  same  of  any  currant  juice.  Pass  through  a  napkin  into  moulds,  and,  when  cold, 
place  on  the  ice  to  set.  When  stiff  it  is  ready  for  use.  Another  method  is  to  pour 
in  a  layer  of  the  jelly  and  let  it  harden;  then  a  layer  of  strawberries,  and  continue 
alternately,  until  the  mould  is  full  or  the  jelly  all  used  up. 

Red   Currant  Jelly. 

Select  fine,  large,  red  currants,  pick  from  the  stalks  and  place  in  a  preserving-pan 
over  a  moderate  fire;  break  the  currants  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  juice  is  ex- 
tracted; then  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  to  every  breakfast  cupful  of  juice  add 
half  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put  both  juice  and  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan,  set  it  on  the 
stove,  and  let  it  come  gradually  to  a  boil.  Then  boil  for  ten  minutes,  and  when  a 
little  cool,  put  into  glasses  or  moulds,  and  when  quite  cold,  turn  out. 


Fruit  Jelly. 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  apple  rings  in  one  quart  of  water,  also  four  ounces  of  tam- 
arinds and  one  pound  of  prunes  in  another  saucepan  with  the  same  quantity  of  water. 
Peel  and  core  one  pound  of  pears,  and  stone  one  pound  of  dates  and  half  a  pound  of 
raisins.  When  the  tamarinds  and  prunes  are  tender,  remove  the  stalks  and  stones, 
put  them  with  their  cooking  liquor  into  a  preserving-pan  and  add  the  apple  rings,  also 
their  cooking  liquor,  together  with  the  pears,  dates  and  raisins;  put  in  with  the  above 
four  pounds  of  coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar  and  one  quart  of  water.  Stir  the  whole 
over  the  fire  and  boil  until  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  a  thick  syrup;  then  put  in  half  a 
pound  of  gelatine  that  has  been  soaked  in  water  for  several  hours,  and  continue  boil- 
ing until  very  thick.  Turn  the  jelly  into  small  jars  and  cover  them  while  hot. 

Gooseberry  Jelly. 

Take  the  required  quantity  of  ripe  gooseberries,  wipe  them  and  put  them  in  a 
preserving-pan  with  a  little  water  to  keep  them  from  burning,  and  let  them  stew  at 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  tender;  then  mash  them,  strain  the  juice  through  a  sieve  and 
for  each  pound  of  it  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  crushed  loaf  sugar.  Put  it  into 
a  stewpan,  reduce  until  it  will  drop  from  the  spoon  in  lumps,  and  turn  into  jars;  tie 
these  over  tightly,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place  until  wanted. 


836  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Grape  Jelly. 

Remove  the  stems  and  put  the  grapes  into  a  large  stone  jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  warm  water  over  the  fire,  let  the  water  come  gradually  to  the  boil  and 
keep  it  boiling  until  the  juice  flows  freely  from  the  fruit,  stirring  it  now  and  then  with 
a  wooden  spoon.  When  the  juice  is  out  of  the  skins,  empty  the  jar  into  a  jelly-bag 
and  let  the  juice  drip  through  without  squeezing  the  bag.  To  every  quart  of  juice  add 
a  pound  and  a  half  of  loaf  sugar,  broken  small,  and  let  it  dissolve  in  the  juice;  then 
put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  preserving-pan,  and  boil  until  clear,  skimming  off  all  scum  as 
it  rises.  Take  from  the  fire,  let  it  cool  a  little,  and  put  into  jars  and  cover  air-tight. 


Guava  Jelly. 

Peel  and  cut  into  quarters  about  a  hundred  ripe  guavas,  plunge  them  into  a  bowl 
of  water,  wash  thoroughly,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  water  to 
cover,  and  boil  for  two  hours,  or  until  they  are  perfectly  tender  and  break  easily  when 
touched.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  pressing  the  fruit  so  as  to  obtain  as  much  as 
will  come  through  easily,  and  allowing  it  to  drip  for  a  day  or  so  if  required.  Pour 
the  juice  into  a  pr«eserving-pan,  and  boil  well,  skimming  often;  add  by  degrees  suffi- 
cient sugar  to  sweeten,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  squeeze  in  the  juice  ot  ten  large  limes, 
boil  until  all  the  scum  is  risen,  and  the  jelly  is  clear,  pour  it  while  warm  into  jars, 
cover  them  over  tightly,  and  let  the  jelly  get  cold.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 


Pineapple  Jelly. 


Select  pineapples  that  are  perfectly  ripe,  pare  them  as  thin  as  possible  and  re- 
move the  eyes;  grate  the  pineapples,  and  to  every  breakfast  cupful  of  the  grated  fruit 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar,  allowing  it  to  stand  for  three  hours.  Place 
it  then  on  the  stove  in  a  preserving-pan,  and  let  it  come  slowly  to  a  boil,  and  con- 
tinue boiling  very  gently  until  the  fruit  is  quite  soft;  then  pour  it  while  hot  into  a 
jelly-bag,  and  have  the  syrup  drain  through  without  squeezing  into  an  earthenware 
basin,  leaving  it  in  the  bag  until  the  syrup  has  drained  from  it.  Then  to  each  break- 
fast cupful  of  syrup  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar,  and  boil  slowly,  skim- 
ming at  frequent  intervals.  After  it  has  been  boiling  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
take  a  small  quantity  of  it  up  in  a  saucer  to  cool;  if  it  is  stiff  the  jelly  is  done,  if  not, 
continue  the  boiling  operation  for  a  time  longer.  When  done,  let  it  cool  until  it  is 
lukewarm,  then  pour  into  glasses.  When  quite  cold  and  set,  cover  the  glasses  with 
white  paper  wet  with  brandy,  dip  some  more  pieces  of  white  paper  into  beaten  white 
of  egg,  and  fasten  over  the  tops  of  the  glasses  to  keep  out  the  air.  They  should  keep 
until  wanted  if  carefully  prepared  in  this  manner. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  837 


Quince  Jelly. 


Choose  some  fine  ripe  quinces  ;  peel,  core  and  cut  them  up  and  place  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  just  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  them,  and  stew  gently  until  ten- 
der but  not  red.  Strain  the  juice  from  the  quinces  without  pressing  them,  measure  it, 
and  for  each  cupful  allow  an  equal  quantity  of  crushed  loaf  sugar.  Pour  the  juice 
into  a  preserving-pan,  and  boil  it  for  twenty  minutes,  then  add  the  sugar,  and  boil  it 
until  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  jelly,  stirring  it  well  all  the  time.  Skim  the  jelly 
and  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag.  Pour  it  into  small  jars,  and  when  quite  cold,  cover 
it  with  papers,  and  tie  down. 

Rhubarb    Jelly. 

Select  eight  pounds  of  nice  ripe  red  rhubarb,  wipe  the  stalks,  cut  them  into  con- 
venient lengths  and  put  them  in  a  stone  or  earthenware  jar  with  the  thinly-pared 
rinds  of  three  large  lemons.  Cover  the  jar  and  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the 
rhubarb  is  tender.  When  cooked  strain  the  juice  from  the  fruit  into  a  lined  sauce- 
pan, squeeze  the  juice  of  three  lemons  into  it  and  boil  very  gently  for  half  an  hour. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  strain  the  juice  through  a  jelly-bag  and  measure  it  and  for 
every  breakfast  cupful  allow  one  and  one-fourth  breakfast  cupfuls  of  coarsely-c'rushed 
loaf  sugar.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  juice  and  boil  the  mixture  for  forty- five  min- 
utes, keeping  it  well  stirred  and  skimmed  all  the  time.  Pour  the  jelly  into  jars  and 
leave  it  until  the  following  day;  then  put  into  each  jar  a  round  of  paper  that  has  been 
dipped  in  brandy  and  cover  them  with  parchment,  tying  them  down  tightly.  Keep 
the  jelly  in  a  drv  store-cupboard. 

Lemon    Mixture   for   Puddings. 

Pare  as  thin  as  possible  the  rinds  of  four  large  lemons  and  mince  them  fine; 
squeeze  the  juice  out  of  half  a  dozen  lemons  and  strain  it.  Put  one-half  pound  of 
butter  into  a  saucepan  to  melt,  then  put  in  the  peel  and  juice  with  two  pounds  of  loaf 
sugar,  the  beaten  whites  of  eight  and  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  stir  the  mixture  over 
a  very  slow  fire  until  thick;  then  pour  it  into  a  jar,  mix  in  one  wineglassful  of  whisky 
or  brandy,  cover  with  the  parchment  and  tie  down  tightly. 


Apple   Marmalade. 


Take  the  apples  to  be  used  after  cutting  them  into  quarters  and  peeling  them, 
and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  water  and  powdered  sugar.  Leave  them 
over  a  slow  fire  until  reduced  to  a  pulp;  then  still  further  reduce  by  simmering  until 
the  marmalade  clings  to  the  spoon.  Cool  and  serve  in  a  compote-dish  or  store  away 
in  jars  to  keep.  If  required  for  immediate  use,  sprinkle  some  sugar  over  the  top  and 
glaze  with  a  hot  salamander. 


838  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Apricot   Marmalade. 

Select  some  quite  ripe  apricots,  stone  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Put  into 
a  preserving-pan  two-thirds  as  much  sugar  as  the  quantity  of  apricots  used,  and 
mix  in  with  the  apricots,  set  the  pan  over  the  stove  and  allow  the  marmalade  to  reduce 
slowly  till  it  coats  the  spoon  and  falls  in  large  drops  from  it.  Add  some  of  the 
kernels  of  the  apricots  blanched  in  hot  water  and  dried,  and  pour  it  into  jars  as  you 
would  jams.  Apricot  marmalade  and  apricot  jam  are  virtually  the  same  thing. 

Cherry   Marmalade. 

Remove  the  stones  and  stems  from  the  required  number  of  cherries;  crush  the 
stones,  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water,  and  boil  them  until  the  flavor  is 
extracted.  Put  the  fruit  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  small  quantity  of  water  and  boil 
until  it  is  reduced  to  a  pulp,  stirring  it  occasionally  with  a  wooden  spoon  to  prevent 
it  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  and  burning.  Put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf 
sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit  into  the  strained  water  in  which  the  stones  have  been 
boiled,  and  boil  until  small,  transparent  bubbles  appear  on  the  top.  Mix  the  clari- 
fied sugar  with  the  fruit  and  continue  stirring  it  over  the  fire  until  thick  and  smooth 
Turn  the  marmalade  into  small  glasses  or  jars,  allow  it  to  get  cold,  then  tie  them  over, 
and  put  in  a  dry  store-cupboard  until  required. 

Red   Currant   Marmalade. 

Take  two  quarts  of  ripe  red  currants,  pick  off  the  stalks  and  put  them  in  a 
preserving-pan  with  two  breakfast  cupfuls  of  raspberry  juice,  and  boil  gently.  When 
the  currants  begin  to  break  mix  one  pint  of  syrup  boiled  to  the  candying  degree  with 
them  and  boil  the  whole  until  reduced  to  a  thick  pulp.  Skim  the  marmalade,  flavor 
with  rose-water,  and  pour  into  jars.  When  the  marmalade  is  cold,  cover  the  jars  w'th 
brandied  papers  and  tie  down  tightly.  Keep  in  a  cool  place. 


Lemon   Marmalade. 

Soak  six  or  eight  ounces  of  lemon  peel  in  brine  for  several  days.  Before  pre- 
serving, soak  the  peels  in  pure  water  until  the  taste  of  the  salt  is  entirely  extracted 
and  boil  till  soft  enough  to  pierce  with  a  straw.  Place  in  a  copper  preserving-pan 
nine  pounds  of  preserving-sugar  and  one  quart  of  water,  when  boiling,  put  in  the 
lemon-peel  and  three  pounds  of  apples  cut  in  slices.  Stir  all  over  the  fire  until  very 
thick.  When  done,  turn  the  marmalade  into  jars  and  leave  till  very  cold.  Cover 
them  tightly  and  keep  in  a  dry  cupboard  until  wanted  for  use. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  839 

Orange   Marmalade. 

Squeeze  out  all  the  juice  from  the  required  number  of  Seville  oranges  and  strain 
it,  pour  over  the  pulp  of  the  oranges  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it,  and  let  it  steep 
for  an  hour.  Afterwards  strain  the  liquor  off  from  the  oranges  and  mix  it  with  the 
juice.  For  each  quart  of  juice  allow  three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  boil  it  to  the  bubble 
(see  Sugar  Boiling),  mix  in  the  orange  juice  and  boil  it  for  about  fifteen  minutes, 
keeping  it  well  skimmed.  Turn  the  marmalade  into  pots,  and  when  cold,  cover  and 
tie  them  down. 

Peach   Marmalade. 

Put  some  ripe  autumn  peaches  that  have  been  peeled  and  stoned  in  layers  in  a 
deep  dish,  cover  them  thickly  with  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  leave  them  for  twenty- 
four  hours.  Place  the  peaches  in  a  preserving-pan  putting  in  one  pound  of  sugar  for 
each  pound  of  peaches.  Boil  till  thick,  then  pass  them  through  a  fine  hair-sieve. 
Crack  the  stones,  peel  a  few  of  the  kernels,  boil  them  in  a  little  thin  syrup  and  mix 
with  the  marmalade.  When  cold,  put  it  in  a  glass-dish,  and  serve. 


Pineapple   Marmalade. 

Small  pineapples  should  be  used  for  this,  and  they  should  be  peeled,  and  all 
eyes  and  discolored  portions  carefully  removed;  then  cut  into  small  pieces,  weigh 
them,  and  use  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  for  every  pound  of  the 
fruit;  place  the  pieces  of  pineapple  in  an  earthenware  jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan 
of  water  and  boil  until  they  become  quite  clear.  Place  the  sugar  in  a  preserving-pan 
with  a  teacupful  of  water  for  each  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  add  the  fruit,  when  the 
whole  may  be  boiled  for  half  an  hour.  Then  move  the  pan  off  the  fire  and  let  the 
marmalade  cool,  when  it  should  be  placed  in  jars.  Put  a  round  of  white  paper 
soaked  in  brandy  on  each  jar,  then  cover  with  heavy  paper  tying  it  down  well. 


Plum   Marmalade. 

Stone  and  peel  some  ripe  plums  and  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish  and  cover  them 
thickly  with  caster-sugar,  place  in  a  cool  spot  and  leave  until  the  following  morning. 
Put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  one  pound  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  for  every  pound 
of  the  fruit  used,  weighing  them  after  they  have  been  stoned,  and  boil  until  they  are 
reduced  to  a  pulp;  crack  some  of  the  stones  and  boil  the  kernels  in  the  marmalade, 
then  turn  the  marmalade  into  jars  and  leave  it  until  quite  cold.  Cover  over  with 
paper,  and  tie  down  tightly. 


840  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 


Quince   Marmalade. 


Peel  and  cut  into  thin  slices  four  pounds  of  quinces;  place  them  in  a  preserving- 
pan  with  two  pounds  of  peeled  and  sliced  apples  and  two  quarts  of  water  in  which  a 
little  lemon  juice  has  been  squeezed.  Place  the  cover  on  the  pan  and  boil  the  con- 
tents quickly  till  softened;  then  put  in  three  pounds  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  of  a  thick  paste.  Remove  the  pan  from  the 
fire,  pour  the  marmalade  into  jars  and  leave  it  until  cold.  Place  brandied  paper  in 
each  jar  and  tie  them  down. 


Raspberry    Marmalade. 


To  each  pound  of  raspberries  allow  one-half  pound  of  sugar.  Hull  and  pick 
the  raspberries,  pass  them  through  a  sieve  and  place  the  pulp  over  the  fire;  stir  it 
continually  until  it  is  reduced  to  one-half.  Have  ready  some  clarified  sugar  boiled 
to  the  ball  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  and  when  the  raspberry  pulp  is  reduced  to 
half  its  original  quantity  pour  it  over;  stir  them  well  together,  give  the  marmalade  a 
few  boils,  take  it  from  the  fire,  allow  it  to  cool  a  little  and  put  it  into  pots.  When 
quite  cold  lay  over  the  marmalade  in  each  pot  a  piece  of  white  paper  dipped  in 
brandy  and  cover  air-tight. 

Rhubarb   Marmalade. 

String  and  cut  into  very  small  pieces  four  stalks  of  rhubarb.  Peel  thin  half  a 
dozen  oranges  and  cut  the  rind  into  thin  shreds;  free  the  oranges  from  all  the  white 
pith,  cut  them  into  slices,  and  remove  the  seeds.  Put  the  rhubard  into  the  pan  with 
the  oranges,  their  peels  and  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar 
and  stand  the  pan  over  a  slow  fire.  Stir  the  mixture  until  reduced  to  the  usual  con- 
sistency of  marmalade;  then  turn  it  into  jars  and  leave  it  till  the  following  day.  Place 
in  each  jar  a  round  of  white  paper  that  has  been  dipped  in  brandy,  cover  them  with 
parchment  and  tie  down.  This  marmalade  is  delicious,  and  will  keep  for  quite  a  long 
time. 

Mince-meat. 

This  word  evidently  takes  its  original  meaning  from  the  French  and  signifies 
anything  that  is  minced  or  chopped  up  fine.  From  the  following  recipes  it  will  be 
seen  that  mince-meat  may  be  prepared  in  a  variety  of  ways,  many  cooks  having  a 
special  recipe  according  to  their  own  fancy  and  from  which  they  make  their 
mince  pies. 

(i)  Mix  together  one  pound  each  of  raisins,  cleaned  currants,  apples,  boiled 
pickled  beef- tongue  and  flesh  from  calf's  feet,  all  finely  chopped;  also  one-half  pound 
each  of  chopped  beef  suet  and  candied  peel,  one-half  pound  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  841 

of  mixed  spices,  moistening  with  three  tumblerfuls  of  wine  and  brandy  in  equal  pro- 
portions, together  with  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons. 

(2)  Cut  off  about  two  pounds  from  the  inside  of  a  boiled  sirloin  of  beef,  remove 
the  skin  and  add  about  five  pounds  of  beef  suet  and  mince  fine.  Then  add  eight 
good-sized  apples  peeled,  cored  and  chopped,  six  pounds  of  cleaned  currants,  the 
grated  crumb  of  a  small  loaf  of  bread,  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  sugar,  one  ounce 
of  grated  nutmeg,  one-half  ounce  of  cloves,  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon  and  orange, 
moistening  with  the  juice  of  six  oranges  and  three  lemons  and  two  tumblerfuls  each 
of  brandy  and  sherry  wine.  Pack  away  in  jars. 

Lemon   Mincemeat. 

Boil  four  ripe,  thin-skinned  lemons  in  one  quart  of  water  until  reduced  to  one 
pint,  then  squeeze  and  strain  the  juice  of  the  lemons  into  two  pounds  of  powdered 
sugar;  mince  the  rind  and  pulp  of  the  lemons  taking  care  to  remove  all  the  seeds, 
stone  and  chop  one  pound  of  raisins  and  mince  fine  two  pounds  of  suet,  mix  them 
with  the  lemons,  adding  two  pounds  of  well-washed  and  dried  currants,  one  ounce  of 
mixed  ground  spices,  one-half  pint  of  brandy  and  port  wine  in  equal  quantities,  and 
the  water  in  which  the  lemons  were  boiled.  The  mince-meat  should  be  kept  in  a  jar 
tightly  covered  until  wanted  for  use. 

Orange  Ratafia. 

Take  six  thick-skinned  Seville  oranges,  cut  off  the  yellow  rinds  as  thin  as 
possible  and  put  them  in  a  jar.  Cut  the  six  oranges  into  halves,  squeeze  the  juice 
from  them,  strain  it  and  add  it  to  the  peels  in  the  jar;  put  in  one  pound  of  powdered 
sugar  and  stir  in  the  orange  juice  till  quite  dissolved,  then  pour  over  it  two  quarts  of 
brandy.  Close  the  jar  air-tight,  let  it  stand  for  one  month,  strain  it,  put  it  into 
bottles,  and  cork  them  well. 

Apricot    Paste. 

Make  a  very  firm  apricot  jam,  pour  it  upon  a  clean  baking-sheet,  and  put  it  in  a 
very  slow  oven  to  dry.  When  set,  stamp  out  or  cut  into  any  shapes,  such  as  rings, 
ovals,  etc.,  and  place  in  trays  to  be  dried  on  a  screen.  Cover  with  paper.  When 
quite  dry  they  should  be  dusted  with  fine  sugar  and  packed  in  tin  boxes  for  use  when 
required. 

Chestnut  Paste. 

Boil  some  chestnuts  in  water  until  they  are  soft.  Then  peel,  skin  and  rub  through 
a  sieve;  pound,  and  to  every  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pounded  chestnuts  add  one- 
fourth  of  a  pound  of  marmalade  (cherry,  orange,  or  any  other  sort  that  may  be  pre- 
ferred), and  one  pound  of  sugar.  When  weighed,  boil  to  the  feather  degree  the 


842  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

requisite  quantity  of  sugar;  that  is,  the  degree  of  heat  at  which  if  a  skimmerful  of 
sugar  be  taken  up  and  shaken  the  sugar  will  emit  large  sparks  which  will  adhere 
together  on  rising.  When  the  sugar  is  at  this  degree,  mix  it  thoroughly  with  the 
pounded  chestnuts  and  marmalade,  place  in  moulds,  and  bake. 

Lemon    Paste. 

Squeeze  the  juice  out  of  some  lemons,  then  boil  the  rinds  until  very  tender. 
Drain,  scrape  out  all  of  the  pulp,  place  the  rinds  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them.  Put 
the  paste  onto  a  sieve,  press  it  through  with  a  spatula  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
reduce  until  thick,  weigh  the  pulp,  and  for  every  pound  use  two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar. 
Clarify  the  sugar  and  boil  to  the  feather  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  then  mix  in  the 
lemon  paste  and  boil  up  again.  Spread  the  paste  on  plates,  put  it  in  the  stove  for  a 
day,  then  remove  it,  cut  it  into  strips,  and  shape  it  into  any  form  desired. 

Candied   Pear   Paste. 

Boil  some  pear  marmalade  till  greatly  reduced  in  quantity.  Color  half  of  it  with 
a  few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal,  turn  each  half  on  a  clean  plate,  and  leave  till  they 
are  cold.  With  some  tin  cutters  cut  the  paste  into  squares,  diamonds,  ovals,  leaves, 
rings,  etc.;  dip  each  with  a  fork  in  a  carameled  syrup,  place  them  out  of  hand  on  a 
trellised  wire  drainer,  and  leave  them  till  dry. 

Plum    Paste. 

Put  into  a  preserving-pan  some  stoned  plums  with  a  little  water  and  boil  to  a 
pulp,  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  pressing  gently  into  a  pan  and  boil,  stirring  well  until 
the  contents  become  a  thick  pulp.  Then  weigh  it,  and  to  each  pound  use  ten  ounces 
of  sugar ;  place  the  sugar  in  a  preserving-pan,  clarify  and  boil  it  to  the  feather;  add 
the  fruit  pulp,  and  boil  for  about  a  minute  longer,  and,  when  done,  pour  onto  a  flat 
sheet  of  tin,  spread  it  with  a  knife,  and  place  it  in  a  warm  closet  for  a  day.  Shape 
the  paste,  and  put  into  boxes  or  tins,  with  paper  between  each  layer,  when  it  will 
keep  until  wanted. 

Quince    Paste. 

Put  the  required  number  of  quinces  in  water  till  they  are  soft,  then  pound  and 
pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Weigh  the  pulp,  and  put  into  a  preserving-pan  an  equal 
weight  of  crushed  loaf  sugar,  boil  it  to  the  feather  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling),  add 
the  mashed  quinces,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  boiling  gently.  Pour  the  paste 
into  shallow  tin-dishes,  and  leave  it  until  set.  Cut  the  paste  into  leaves,  rings,  etc., 
place  them  on  a  wire  tray,  and  dry  in  a  screen.  Pack  in  boxes  between  layers  of 
paper.  If  liked,  the  paste  may  be  colored  by  adding  a  little  liquid  carmine  to  the 
pulp  before  it  is  mixed  with  the  sugar. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  843 

Pickled   Grapes. 

Select  large  but  not  ripe  grapes,  cut  into  small  bunches,  and  fill  a  stone  jar  with 
them,  putting  vine  leaves  between  the  bunches.  Dissolve  one  pound  of  bay  salt  and 
a  little  common  salt  in  one  quart  of  cold  water,  put  it  into  a  copper  pan,  boil  and 
remove  the  scum  as  it  rises  to  the  top.  When  it  has  boiled  for  quarter  of  an  hour, 
let  it  stand  until  cool.  Pour  the  liquor  over  the  grapes,  put  more  vine  leaves  on  the 
top,  and  tie  down  with  a  folded  linen  cloth.  Boil  two  quarts  of  vinegar  together 
with  one  quart  of  water  and  one  pound  of  brown  sugar  for  a  few  minutes,  skim,  and 
let  it  stand  until  quite  cold;  strain  the  grapes.  Dry  the  jar,  put  fresh  vine  leaves  at 
the  bottom  between  the  layers  of  the  grapes  and  on  the  top,  and  pour  the  clear 
pickle  over  all.  Tie  a  thin  piece  of  board  in  a  piece  of  flannel,  lay  it  on  the  top  of 
the  jar,  cover  it  with  bladder  and  then  with  leather,  and  tie  it  down  tightly. 

Pickled   Peaches. 

Allow  to  fourteen  pounds  of  peaches  weighed  after  peeling,  three  quarts  of 
vinegar  and  six  pounds  of  brown  sugar.  Mix  together  in  a  plate  or  saucer  a  table- 
spoonful  of  blades  of  mace,  two  ounces  of  stick  cinnamon  broken  up  into  small 
pieces,  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves.  Lay  at  the  bottom  of  a  two-gallon  jar  about  one 
quart  of  the  peaches,  cover  with  sugar,  and  sprinkle  over  a  portion  of  the  mixed 
spices.  Then  lay  in  more  peaches  covering  as  before  with  sugar  and  spices.  Pro- 
ceed in  this  manner  till  the  jar  is  full  or  till  all  the  peaches,  sugar  and  spice  are  used. 
Then  pour  in  the  vinegar,  put  a  plate  or  saucer  over  the  fruit  to  keep  it  well  under 
the  vinegar,  tie  a  cloth  tight  over  the  top  of  the  jar,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  in  a  sauce- 
pan half-full  of  cold  water.  Let  the  water  boil  till  the  peaches  are  soft  enough  to 
pierce  with  a  straw. 

Pickled  Pears. 

Peel  six  pounds  of  pears,  stick  two  cloves  in  each,  put  them  in  a  lined  preserv- 
ing-pan in  which  three  pounds  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  one  pint  of  vinegar  are  boil- 
ing. Cook  the  pears  till  tender,  then  turn  all  into  stone  jars.  When  cold  tie  them 
down. 

Pickled  Plums. 

Select  plums  not  too  ripe,  prick  them  well  all  over  with  a  fork,  arrange  them  in 
layers  in  a  jar  with  cinnamon  and  cloves  and  orange-peel  between  each  layer,  cover 
over  with  vinegar,  and  soak  them  in  this  for  twenty-four  hours,  at  the  end  of  which 
time  strain  off  the  vinegar  into  a  saucepan,  boil  it  up  quickly  for  about  ten  minutes, 
and  let  it  become  cool,  then  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  After  the  lapse  of  twenty-four 
hours  again  strain  the  vinegar,  boil  it  for  ten  minutes  with  some  sugar,  six  ounces  to 
every  quart  of  the  liquid,  pour  it  over  the  fruit,  and  leave  it  until  cold.  Cover  the 
jars  with  stout  paper,  tie  securely,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 


844  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Preserved   American   or    Siberian   Crab-Apples. 

Gather  the  apples  just  prior  to  their  becoming  ripe,  select  carefully,  cut  the  stems 
short,  and  then  plunge  the  fruit  into  boiling-water  for  a  few  minutes  until  the  skin  of 
any  one  of  them  begins  to  crack.  Take  from  the  fire,  strain  through  an  earthenware 
colander,  and  they  may  then  be  easily  peeled.  Great  care  must  be  taken  when  peel- 
ing the  apples  to  keep  them  very  clean  and  perfect  in  shape.  Before  starting  to  do 
this  make  a  thin  syrup  of  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  to  about  one  pint  of  water,  and 
keep  it  boiling  hot  until  all  the  apples  are  peeled  and  dropped  into  a  large  glass  jar. 
When  a  sufficient  number  are  done  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  them,  and  store  away  in 
a  cool  pantry.  The  following  day  strain  off  again,  place  the  syrup  in  a  stewpan 
with  one-fourth  pound  more  sugar  to  each  pint;  then  boil  and  skim.  Return  the 
apples  to  the  jar  and  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  a  second  time.  If  on  the  day  following 
the  syrup  looks  clear,  and  the  fruit  is  soft,  they  may  be  considered  ready  for  tying 
down,  though  there  will  be  no  harm  in  repeating  the  boiling  process  once  or  twice 
more  in  order  to  insure  immunity  from  mould. 

Preserved   Apples. 

Core,  pare  and  slice  some  pippins  and  put  to  each  pound  of  apples  half  a  pound 
of  preserving-sugar,  and  to  each  eight  pounds  thus  sweetened,  one  quart  of  water  to- 
gether with  a  few  cloves  and  the  thin  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon.  Stew  till  the  apples 
are  clear,  and  put  up  in  wide-mouthed  bottles  or  jars  for  future  use. 

Preserved   Cherries. 

The  large  red  variety  of  cherries,  usually  used  for  pies,  and  the  Morello  cherry 
are  the  best  for  preserves.  They  should  be  fresh  and  sound,  and  the  larger  the  better. 
Remove  the  stems  and  stones  from  the  cherries,  being  careful  not  to  bruise  them. 
Then  weigh  the  cherries,  and  allow  their  own  weight  in  sugar ;  shake  the  sugar  over 
the  cherries,  and  stir  in  with  them  and  allow  them  to  stand  all  night  in  order  that  the 
sugar  may  harden  the  cherries  slightly.  In  the  morning  put  all  into  the  preserving- 
pan,  place  on  the  stove,  allow  it  to  get  hot  gradually,  and  boil  gently  until  the  cher- 
ries look  clear,  skimming  off  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When  the  cherries  have  become 
quite  clear,  remove  the  pan  from  the  stove,  cover  it  over  and  let  the  preserve  cool. 
When  cold,  put  it  into  glass  jars,  dip  pieces  of  white  paper  in  brandy  and  place  on 
the  tops  of  the  jars,  and  cover  them  tightly  so  as  to  keep  out  the  air.  Keep  in  a 
cool,  dark  place. 

Preserved   Chestnuts. 

Take  the  brown  skins  off  some  chestnuts  and  put  them  in  boiling  water  until  the 
light  skins  can  be  removed.  Have  some  syrup  ready,  put  the  chestnuts  in,  stand  by 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  845 

the  fire  and  let  simmer  for  several  hours,  every  little  while  adding  a  little  more  syrup. 
The  syrup  should  thicken  while  simmering,  otherwise  it  would  get  mouldy.  Heat 
the  chestnuts  two  days  in  this  manner,  then  take  out  and  drain.  Boil  some  syrup  to 
the  blow  degree  in  a  small  pan,  and  when  it  is  cool,  work  it  until  it  has  a  gloss.  Dip 
the  chestnuts  in  this,  drain  on  a  wire-sieve  and  dry  in  a  oven  for  two  minutes. 

Preserved   Cucumbers. 

Select  small,  well-formed  cucumbers,  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes;  take  out  of 
the  water  and  pierce  with  a  needle  in  three  or  four  places  and  let  drain.  Allow  to 
every  pound  of  cucumber  one  pound  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  water;  put  all  in  a 
stewpan;  add  one  stick  of  ginger  and  the  rind  of  a  lemon;  simmer  at  side  of  the  fire 
for  about  five  minutes.  Then  take  out  the  cucumbers  and  place  in  a  jar;  skim  the 
syrup  and  pour  over  them;  cover  the  jar  tightly  and  let  stand  for  two  or  three  days. 
Strain  off  the  syrup,  give  it  another  boiling,  pour  it  again  over  the  cucumbers,  tie  a 
bladder  on  the  jar  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

Red   Currant   Preserve. 

Pick  four  pounds  of  red  currants  from  the  stalks  and  put  them  into  a  pan  over 
the  fire  to  dry;  next  press  them  through  a  sieve  and  put  back  again  over  the  fire,  stir- 
ring constantly  until  the  liquor  becomes  so  clear  that  the  bottom  of  the  pan  can  be 
seen  Melt  six  pounds  of  sugar  over  the  fire  and  boil  to  the  ball  degree,  which  is  as- 
certained by  dipping  the  finger  into  cold  water,  then  instantly  into  the  boiling  sugar, 
and  back  immediately  into  the  cold  water.  If  the  sugar  will  roll  from  the  finger  in  a 
little  ball,  can  be  crumbled  between  the  fingers,  and  will  stick  to  the  teeth  if  bitten, 
the  sugar  is  boiled  to  this  state.  Then  pour  the  sugar  over  the  currants  and  keep 
stirring  them.  In  a  short  time,  remove  from  the  fire  but  continue  stirring  until  the 
liquor  bubbles,  then  turn  it  into  moulds. 

Fruit  Preserved  in   Ginger  Syrup. 

Put  one  pound  of  finely-broken  white  ginger  into  a  saucepan  with  more  than  suf- 
ficient water  to  cover  it  and  boil  until  the  water  is  highly  seasoned  with  the  ginger; 
then  add  any  firm  fruit,  boil  until  done,  turn  all  into  a  jar  and  leave  for  four  or  five 
days,  giving  it  a  frequent  stir.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  half  a 
pint  of  brandy,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  pour  in  a  little  of  the 
ginger  water  and  boil  to  a  syrup.  Skim  well,  add  the  fruit,  boil  for  ten  or  twelve 
minutes,  remove  from  the  fire  and  leave  for  a  week;  then  strain  off  the  sugar,  boil  up 
again,  put  the  fruit  back  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Turn  the  preserve  into 
pots,  cover  with  paper  soaked  in  brandy  and  then  with  wet  parchment,  and  leave  for 
a  month  before  using. 


846  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Preserved    Fruit   Juice. 

The  juice  of  fruit  may  be  kept  for  some  time  by  putting  it  in  tins  the  same  as 
whole  fruits.  Mash  the  fruit,  press  it  to  extract  as  much  of  the  juice  as  possible  and 
then  pass  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Measure  the  juice  and  put  it  in  a  pan  with 
three  pounds  of  preserving-sugar  to  each  quart.  Fill  some  jars  with  the  syrup,  cover 
them,  stand  them  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water  to  three  parts  their  height,  and  boil 
for  half  an  hour.  Leave  the  jars  in  the  water  until  cool,  then  seal  and  put  them  away 
for  use. 

Preserved   Gooseberries. 

Put  into  a  preserving-pan  five  pounds  of  gooseberries  with  one  pound  of  sugar 
dusted  over  them  and  set  the  pan  on  the  fire;  when  the  juice  commences  to  come  out 
take  off  the  pan.  Repeat  this  process  for  two  days  more,  then  take  the  gooseberries 
out  of  the  syrup,  drain  them  on  sieves  and  place  them  to  dry  either  before  the  fire  or 
in  the  sun,  the  latter  for  preference.  After  taking  out  of  the  pan,  they  may  be 
dipped  in  fine  sugar  and  packed  away  in  boxes. 

Preserved   Grapes. 

Select  grapes  that  are  ripe  and  quite  sound.  Pick  off  the  stalks  and  weigh  the 
fruit  and  to  every  pound  of  grapes  allow  one  pound  of  sugar.  Squeeze  the  pulp  out 
of  the  skins,  putting  the  pulp  in  one  bowl  and  the  skins  in  another.  Put  the  sugar 
into  a  preserving-pan  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  water  to  each  pound,  and  let  it  boil 
until  clear,  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When  it  is  quite  clear  put  the  pulp  of  the 
grapes  into  it  and  boil  for  two  minutes;  then  turn  it  out  into  a  hair-sieve  and  rub  it 
through  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon  to  get  the  pips  out.  Put  it  back  into  the 
preserving-pan  without  the  pips,  add  the  skins  and  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes,  or 
until  the  skins  fill  and  look  plump;  then  let  it  cool  and  put  it  into  jars  and  cover 
them  to  keeo  out  the  air. 

Preserved  Lemons. 

Select  sound  and  moderately  thick-skinned  lemons,  remove  a  piece  about  one- 
half  inch  in  diameter  from  the  stalk  end,  and  with  a  blunt  knife  remove  all  the  in- 
sides.  Place  the  peels  in  cold  water,  leave  them  for  a  day  or  two,  changing  the 
water  three  or  four  times  a  day,  then  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  more  cold  water 
and  boil  until  quite  tender,  keeping  the  pan  covered  and  boiling  slowly.  Prepare  a 
syrup,  using  about  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  water  to  each  pound  of  fruit; 
add  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  clarify  the  syrup,  skim,  and  allow  it  to  get  cold.  Put  in 
the  peels  and  boil  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  quite  clear.  They  are  then  ready  for 
packing  away. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  847 

Preserved  Nectarines. 

Pare  some  nectarines,  cut  them  in  halves  to  remove  the  stones,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire.  As  soon  as  the 
fruit  floats  on  top,  take  them  out  and  put  on  a  strainer  to  drain.  Weigh  them  and  to 
every  pound  add  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  clarified  sugar;  put  the  fruit  and  sugar  into 
a  preserving-pan,  boil  until  the  syrup  is  nearly  clear,  then  place  them  with  the  syrup 
on  one  side  to  cool.  Let  the  whole  remain  for  a  day,  then  drain  off  the  syrup 
and  boil  till  it  becomes  quite  thick;  add  the  fruit  and  boil  for  a  short  time.  Repeat 
this  once  more,  and,  lastly,  pour  the  whole  into  a  deep  dish  and  let  it  remain  for  two 

days.      Put  it  into  pots  or  jars,  cover  them  tightly,  and  the  preserve  is  ready  for  use. 

i 

Preserved  Peaches. 

Take  some  large,  juicy  peaches,  peel  and  quarter  them.  Crack  half  the  stones 
and  blanch  the  kernels.  Weigh  the  peaches,  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish  mixing  with 
them  the  blanched  kernels,  and  one  pound  of  powdered  white  sugar  to  every  pound 
of  peaches;  cover  and  let  them  remain  all  night.  Next  day  put  all  the  contents  of 
the  dish  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  boil  them  till  they  look  clear,  and  are  quite  soft, 
removing  all  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When  the  fruit  is  soft  and  clear,  take  the  pan 
from  the  fire,  let  it  cool  a  little,  and  then  put  the  preserve  into  jars.  When  quite 
cold  lay  a  piece  of  white  paper  dipped  in  brandy  on  top  of  the  preserve  in  each  jar, 
and  cover  the  jars  air-tight. 

Preserved    Pears. 

Pears  for  preserving  should  be  firm  and  rather  sour;  if  they  are  small  they 
should  be  preserved  whole;  if  medium-sized,  cut  them  in  halves;  if  large,  in  quarters. 
Peel  them  with  a  silver  knife,  dropping  each  pear  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  as  soon  as 
peeled  to  keep  the  color  nice.  When  the  pears  are  all  peeled  and,  if  necessary,  cut, 
weigh  them,  allowing  an  equal  weight  of  sugar;  put  the  fruit  in  a  saucepan  on  the 
stove  with  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it  completely  and  let  it  boil  gently  until  soft 
enough  to  yield  slightly  to  gentle  pressure  with  the  fingers.  While  the  pears  are 
boiling  put  the  sugar  in  a  preserving- pan;  to  each  pound  of  sugar  add  two  breakfast 
cupfuls  of  cold  water,  and  to  every  five  or  six  pounds  of  the  juice  the  thinly-pared 
rind  of  two  lemons  and  two  ounces  of  green  ginger  root  scraped  and  scalded;  boil 
the  syrup,  taking  off  the  scum  as  it  rises.  When  the  fruit  is  tender  put  it  in  the  pre- 
serving-pan with  the  syrup  and  boil  till  the  pears  look  clear,  then  remove  from  the 
fire  and  let  the  preserve  cool  in  the  syrup  and  then  put  in  jars,  fastening  so  as  to  be 
air-tight. 

Preserved  Pineapple. 

Select  thoroughly-ripe  pineapples,  peel  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Weigh  them, 
and  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  to  each  pound  of  the  fruit 


848  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

and  place  them  in  a  preserving-pan  in  layers,  with  sugar  between  each  layer,  leaving 
them  over  night.  On  the  following  morning  put  the  pan  over  rather  a  slow  fire,  and 
when  the  pineapples  are  very  hot,  but  not  soft,  remove  them,  drain  each  slice  and  lay 
on  a  dish.  Continue  boiling  the  syrup  until  thickly  reduced.  Pack  the  slices  in  glass 
jars,  pour  in  a  half  wineglassful  of  rum  and  enough  of  the  syrup  to  fill  them  and  let 
them  get  quite  cold,  after  which  put  in  each  jar  a  round  of  white  paper  dipped  in 
brandy,  cover  with  parchment  and  tie  securely.  Keep  in  a  dry  place  until  wanted 

Preserved    Plums. 

Procure  some  full-grown,  quite  ripe  plums,  prick  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water  over  the  fire;  take  off  immediately  when  the  water  is  on  the  point  of 
boiling,  drain,  put  them  into  clarified  sugar,  boil  thoroughly  and  allow  them  to  settle 
and  boil  once  more.  If  they  shrink,  and  do  not  take  the  sugar,  prick  them  again 
without  taking  them  from  the  syrup  and  boil  again;  skim  the  syrup  and  remove  the 
pan  from  the  fire,  allowing  it  to  stand  over  night.  The  following  day  add  to  the  fruit 
and  syrup  in  the  pan  some  sugar  boiled  to  the  blow  degree  and  boil  them  once  more, 
place  in  the  stove  and  let  them  stand  there  all  night.  The  following  day  drain  the 
plums  from  the  syrup,  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  powdered  sugar,  and  dry  in  the  stove. 

Preserved   Prunes. 

Wash  well  two  or  three  pounds  of  prunes,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
enough  water  to  cover  them,  adding  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon;  set  the  pan  over  a 
slow  fire  and  cook  gently  until  the  fruit  is  quite  tender,  then  remove,  and  pass 
through  a  sieve.  To  each  pound  of  the  pulp,  use  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar; 
place  the  sugar  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  little  water,  and,  when  it  is  melted,  add  the 
pulp.  Boil  it  for  fifteen  minutes  longer,  skimming  frequently.  Keep  the  preserves 
in  jars  or  pots  until  used. 

Preserved   Quinces. 

Carefully  peel  and  core  the  required  quantity  of  quinces,  removing  both  from 
parings  and  fruit  everything  that  is  not  perfectly  good.  Cut  the  quinces  either  into 
quarters  or  across  into  slices,  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan  over  the  fire  in  a  very  little 
water,  and  cover  them  with  the  parings.  Place  the  cover  on  the  pan  to  keep  the 
steam  in,  and  allow  the  fruit  to  simmer  till  soft.  Take  out  the  slices  or  quarters  of 
quinces,  and  strain  the  liquor  in  the  pan  through  a  jelly-bag.  Put  the  strained  juice 
once  more  over  the  fire  in  a  pan,  together  with  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  to  every  pint 
of  juice,  and  keep  stirring  this  until  the  sugar  has  entirely  melted  and  has  come  to 
the  boil,  then  let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes,  skimming  off  the  scum  as  it  comes  to  the 
surface.  Put  in  the 'quinces,  and  let  them  simmer  in  the  syrup  for  twenty  minutes. 
When  they  look  clear  and  are  well  sweetened,  lift  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  first  tak- 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  849 

ing  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  put  them  into  glass  jars.  Allow  the  syrup  to  cool  a 
little,  and  pour  it  over  them  warmed.  When  quite  cold,  lay  a  piece  of  white  paper 
dipped  in  brandy  on  top  of  the  preserves  in  each  jar,  and  cover  the  jars  air-tight. 

Preserved  Raspberries. 

Large  raspberries  are  best;  they  should  be  quite  ripe,  and  care  should  be  exer- 
cised to  see  that  there  are  no  insects  in  the  hollows  of  the  fruit.  Weigh  them,  and  to 
every  pound  of  raspberries  allow  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  raspberries  and  sugar  in 
alternate  layers  in  a  preserving-pan,  being  careful  to  have  a  layer  of  sugar  at  the  bot- 
tom and  also  at  the  top,  and  let  them  stand  in  the  sugar  all  night.  In  the  morning, 
pick  off  the  stems  from  some  ripe  red  currants,  bruise  them,  and  squeeze  the  juice 
out  through  a  cloth.  Add  one  breakfast  cupful  of  this  juice  to  every  two  pounds  of 
raspberries  and  sugar  weighed  together;  add  the  currant  juice  to  the  raspberries  and 
sugar  already  in  the  pan,  put  it  on  the  stove  and  stir  gently  until  it  boils.  Re- 
move all  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  continue  stirring  to  keep  the  raspberries  from  stick- 
ing, but  be  careful  not  to  break  them.  Continue  to  boil  until  clear,  let  them  cool  a 
little,  and  put  them  into  jars.  When  cold,  cover,  and  stand  them  away  in  a  cool  dark 
place. 

Preserved    Strawberries. 

Put  two  pounds  of  strawberries  at  the  bottom  of  a  preserving-pan,  pour  over  two 
breakfast  cupfuls  of  red  or  white  currant  juice,  cover  with  finely-crushed  loaf  sugar 
and  again  with  a  sheet  of  paper,  place  the  pan  at  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it 
remain  until  the  strawberries  are  slightly  warm.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  take 
the  strawberries  out  carefully  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain. 
Add  a  little  more  sugar  to  the  syrup,  boil  it  to  the  pearl  degree  (see  Sugar  Boiling), 
put  back  the  fruit  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Remove  the  straw- 
berries, put  them  carefully  into  a  basin,  pour  over  the  syrup  and  let  them  remain  for 
a  couple  of  days.  Take  them  out  again,  drain,  put  the  syrup  back  in  the  pan,  add  a 
little  more  sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  currant  juice  and  boil  again  to  the  pearl 
degree,  put  in  the  strawberries,  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  put  them  carefully  into 
jars,  pour  the  syrup  in  so  as  to  not  quite  fill  the  jars,  let  them  get  cold,  cover  over 
first  with  paper  soaked  in  brandy,  then  with  thick  paper  or  a  bladder,  put  the  jars  in 
a  cool  place  and  let  them  remain  until  wanted.  For  preserving  strawberries  only  the 
largest  fruit  should  be  used. 

Strawberry  Shrub. 

Hull  twelve  pounds  of  ripe  strawberries,  crush  and  mash  them  and  squeeze  the 
juice  from  them  through  a  cloth.  Put  the  juice  in  a  pan  over  the  fire  together  with 
the  strained  juice  of  half  a  dozen  good-sized  lemons,  bring  it  to  the  boil  and  let  it 


850  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

boil  fast  for  five  minutes;  then  add  six  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  and  when  this  has  melted 
let  it  boil  for  six  minutes  longer.  Remove  it  from  the  fire,  let  it  cool,  skimming  as 
it  cools,  and  when  quite  cold  mix  in  one  and  one-half  pints  of  brandy  or  whiskey. 
Bottle  it  being  very  particular  to  see  that  the  bottles  are  perfectly  clean.  They 
should  first  be  well  washed  in  soda  and  water  and  then  rinsed  out  with  boiling  water. 
Cork  the  bottles  with  new  corks  soaked  in  cold  water.  Cut  them  off  even  with  the 
top,  seal  with  sealing-wax  or  bees-wax  and  rosin  melted  together  in  equal  quantities, 
and  lay  the  bottles  on  their  sides  in  dry  sawdust. 


Sugared    Quinces. 


Select  good,  firm  quinces,  rub  them  over  with  a  damp  cloth  in  order  to  remove 
the  dust,  cut  each  one  into  eight  pieces  and  remove  the  cores.  Place  the  quinces  in 
a  preserving-pan  on  the  stove,  pour  over  them  enough  boiling  water  to  cover,  and 
allow  them  to  boil  slowly  until  they  are  tender;  then  drain  off  the  water  and  let  them 
get  cold.  Weigh  the  quinces  and  allow  an  equal  weight  of  sugar.  The  peels  and 
cores  should  have  been  tied  in  a  muslin  bag  and  boiled  with  the  quinces.  When  the 
quinces  are  quite  cold  put  them  and  the  sugar  into  glass  or  earthenware  jars  in  alter- 
nate layers,  first  sugar,  then  quinces,  and  so  on  and  cover.  When  covering  make 
sure  that  the  air  is  entirely  excluded.  Look  at  them  from  time  to  time  to  see  whether 
any  show  signs  of  fermentation;  if  there  is  any,  place  the  jars  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and 
loosen  the  covers,  let  the  water  boil  until  the  quinces  are  well  scalded,  then  cover  the 
jars  down  carefully  as  before. 


Chocolate   Syrup. 


Mix  half  a  pound  of  scraped  chocolate  cake  with  one  quart  of  water,  add  four 
pounds  of  loaf-sugar,  and  stir  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  chocolate  is  dissolved  and  the 
sugar  syruped. 

Currant  Syrup. 

Select  red,  white  or  black  currants  taking  care  that  the  fruit  is  fully  ripe,  and 
pick  over  carefully  to  free  from  any  rotten  ones.  Mash  the  currants  in  an  earthen- 
ware crock  with  a  vegetable  masher  and  let  it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours,  at  a  tem- 
perature of  from  75  to  85  degrees,  Fahrenheit.  Keep  the  crock  covered  with  a  cloth, 
stirring  the  contents  once  in  a  while;  then  press  out  the  juice  through  a  sieve, 
measure,  and  leave  it  for  the  night.  In  the  morning  add  one  wineglassful  of  brandy 
to  every  pint  of  juice;  allow  this  to  macerate  for  a  few  hours  and  then  filter.  After 
filtering  put  the  juice  into  a  sugar  boiler,  and  stir  in  a  pound  and  a  half  of  crushed 
loaf  sugar  for  every  pint,  heat  to  boiling,  skim  and  stand  in  clean  bottles  previously 
rinsed  out  with  a  little  brandy.  Cork  well,  and  capsule  or  wax  over. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC.  851 

Red  Currant  Syrup. 

Place  the  required  quantity  of  freshly-picked  red  currants  in  a  bowl  and  mash 
them  with  a  wooden  spoon;  cover  the  bowl  and  let  them  stand  for  three  or  four 
hours.  Strain  the  juice  through  a  jelly-bag,  measure  it  and  put  into  a  sugar  boiler 
with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  lump  sugar  to  each  pint  of  juice.  Boil  until 
reduced  to  a  clear  syrup  keeping  it  well  skinned;  then  take  off  the  fire  and  leave 
until  cold.  Pour  the  syrup  into  small  bottles,  pour  a  little  fresh  salad  oil  on  the  top 
of  each  to  preserve  it,  and  put  them  in  an  upright  position  in  a  dry  cupboard  until 
required, 

Raspberry    Syrup. 

• 

Put  six  pounds  of  raspberries  into  an  earthenware  pan,  press  them  gently,  sprinkle 
with  four  ounces  of  crushed  loaf  sugar,  and  let  them  remain  for  ten  or  twelve  hours. 
Pass  the  juice  through  a  very  fine  sieve,  measure  it,  pour  it  into  a  preserving-pan,  and 
boil  for  twenty  minutes  skimming  frequently.  To  each  breakfast  cupful  of  the  juice 
add  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  roughly  crushed;  boil  until  the  liquor  commences  to 
thicken,  pour  it  into  an  earthenware  bowl  to  cool,  and  then  into  bottles.  Cork  and 
seal  them,  and  stand  them  in  a  dry  place  until  wanted. 

Strawberry  Syrup. 

Put  six  pounds  of  perfectly  ripe  and  dry  strawberries  into  a  bowl,  pour  over 
them  six  quarts  of  cold  water  in  which  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  tartaric  acid 
has  been  mixed,  and  let  them  stand  for  twenty-four  hours.  Strain  the  liquor  care- 
fully off  the  fruit,  measure  it  and  for  each  pint  use  one  pound  of  finely-crushed 
loaf  sugar.  Pour  the  syrup  into  bottles,  cork  them,  tie  down  with  twine,  and  dip 
the  nozzle  in  melted  rosin.  Keep  the  syrup  in  a  dry  store-cupboard. 

Essence  of  Vanilla. 

Cut  three  vanilla  beans  into  very  small  shreds,  put  them  into  a  bottle  with  one 
pint  of  brandy,  and  cork  the  bottle.  Shake  the  vanilla  occasionally  and  in  the 
course  of  three  months'  time  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Extract  of  Vanilla. 

Cut  and  chop  very  fine  two  or  three  vanilla  beans,  or  pound  them  in  a 
mortar.  Stir  in  with  them  a  small  quantity  of  powdered  sugar.  Put  the  vanilla  and 
sugar  into  a  pint  bottle,  add  to  it  one  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  allow  it  to  stand 
all  night.  The  next  day  pour  on  it  one-half  pint  of  spirits  of  wine,  cork  it  well, 
and  let  it  stand  for  a  month,  shaking  it  well  every  day. 


852  PRESERVES,  JAMS,  ETC. 

Vanilla  Flavoring. 

Steep  one  dram  of  freshly-sliced  vanilla  bean  in  one  pint  of  ninety-five  per  cent, 
alcohol  for  twenty  days.  At  the  end  of  that  time  filter  the  liquor,  and  bottle  it  ready 
for  use. 

Vanilla  Sugar. 

Cut  up  one  pound  of  Mexican  vanilla  beans,  place  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  pound 
of  loaf  sugar,  and  pound  them  to  a  fine  powder.  Sift  the  sugar  through  a  fine  hair- 
sieve,  turn  what  is  left  in  the  sieve  into  the  mortar,  and  pound  again.  When  all  is 
finely-powdered  and  sifted,  put  the  sugar  in  bottles,  and  keep  them  tightly  corked. 


Pickles  and   Condiments. 

Bottled   Tomatoes. 

Cut  off  the  stems  and  green  parts  from  four  or  five  pounds  of  ripe  tomatoes, 
divide  them  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  onions,  two  bay- 
leaves,  three  or  four  cloves,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  them,  stirring  at  the 
same  time  until  tender,  then  turn  the  pulp  onto  a  fine  sieve  with  a  basin  underneath 
to  catch  the  liquor  as  it  runs  through.  When  all  the  juice  has  drained  from  the 
tomatoes  put  it  in  the  stewpan,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity. 
Pass  the  pulp  through  a  sieve,  but  do  not  allow  the  onions  or  bay-leaves  to  go 
through,  and  mix  it  with  the  reduced  liquor.  Turn  the  conserve  into  wide-mouthed 
bottles,  cork  them  and  tie  them  down.  Place  the  bottles  in  a  saucepan  with  some 
straw  between  them  to  prevent  their  breaking  and  cold  water  up  to  their  necks,  and 
boil  them  for  thirty  minutes  or  so.  Afterward  leave  them  in  water  off  the  fire  until 
cold.  Wipe  them,  dip  their  nozzles  in  bottle-wax,  and  place  them  in  a  dry  store-cup- 
board for  future  use. 

Burnt   Onions. 

Peel  one-half  pound  of  onions,  place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  breakfast  cupful  of 
water,  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Add  eight  ounces  of  moist  sugar  and  simmer  gently 
until  the  mixture  is  almost  black.  Pour  in  one  gill  of  boiling  vinegar,  stirring  well 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  It  may  be  poured  into  bottles 
and  kept  if  required. 

Cayenne    Pepper. 

For  this,  thick-skinned,  fine,  long  red  peppers  must  be  used.  Spread  about  one- 
half  pound  of  them  on  a  tray,  and  dry  in  the  open  air,  but  not  in  the  sun;  then  re- 
move all  the  stalks,  place  them  in  a  mortar  and  pound  them  thoroughly.  Put  the 
cayenne  into  jars  and  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  The  mortar  should  be  covered  over 
with  a  cloth  while  pounding  in  order  to  prevent  the  dust  from  flying  into  the  eyes  of 
the  operator. 

Chow-Chow. 

Cut  into  small  pieces  two  heads  of  white  cabbage  and  boil  them  until  they  are 
quite  tender;  then  take  two  heads  of  cauliflower,  cut  them  up,  place  them  in  a  sep- 
arate pan,  and  boil;  also  one  quart  of  small  onions,  a  dozen  small  cucumbers,  one-half 
gallon  of  small  tomatoes  and  six  roots  of  chopped  celery;  cooking  all  in  separate 

853 


854  •   PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

pans.  Then  put  two  gallons  of  vinegar,  four  ounces  each  of  ground  mustard  and 
mustard  seed,  a  small  pot  of  French  mustard,  two  ounces  of  turmeric  and  one  ounce 
of  cloves  into  a  pan  and  set  this  over  the  fire.  When  it  boils  mix  all  the  vegetables 
together  and  pour  the  liquor  over  them.  Let  it  get  cold  and  then  put  it  into  jars; 
cover  these  over  and  tie  down. 

Chutney. 

Remove  the  peelings  and  cores  from  two  or  three  pounds  of  green  cooking- 
apples,  chop  them  up,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  three  breakfast  cupfuls  of  vine- 
gar, and  boil  them  to  a  pulp.  Pour  this  pulp  out  into  a  basin  and  when  cold  mix  in 
one  ounce  each  of  garlic  and  chillies,  two  ounces  of  shallots,  all  finely  minced,  one 
ounce  of  ground  ginger,  two  ounces  of  salt,  four  ounces  each  of  mustard  seed  and 
tamarinds,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  stoned  and  chopped  raisins,  and  one  pound 
of  moist  sugar,  and  stir  all  well  together.  Place  the  chutney  in  bottles,  lay  them  near 
the  fire  for  several  days,  cork  them  up  and  keep  in  a  cold  place  until  required.  This 
is  always  best  for  preserving  them. 

Mango  Chutney. 

This  can  be  prepared  by  using  the  refuse  from  mango  sauce  with  the  addition  of 
a  little  thick  syrup,  a  few  dried  dates,  hot  spices  and  ground  stoned  raisins.  Put  the 
mixture  into  a  saucepan  and  simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  syrup  is 
absorbed  and  the  chutney  is  of  the  required  consistence.  Allow  it  to  get  cold,  put  it 
into  bottles,  cork  down  securely,  and  the  chutney  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Tomato   Chutney. 

Pick  and  wipe  on  a  cloth  five  pounds  of  ripe  tomatoes,  put  them  in  an  earthen- 
ware jar  with  one  breakfast  cupful  of  salt  and  one-half  pint  of  vinegar,  cover  the  jar 
to  keep  out  the  air,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  allow  it  to  remain  for 
six  hours.  Turn  the  contents  of  the  jar  out  onto  a  sieve  and  pass  it  through  taking 
care  not  to  have  any  of  the  seeds  or  skin.  Put  two  ounces  each  of  shredded  garlic 
and  red  peppers  into  a  saucepan,  add  two  ounces  of  ginger  also  cut  up  small 
and  two  pounds  of  sugar  made  into  a  syrup  with  one  quart  of  vinegar;  add  the 
tomatoes  and  bring  the  whole  gently  to  the  boil.  Remove  the  pan,  let  the  chutney 
cool,  put  it  into  bottles,  cork  them  down  and  stand  them  in  a  warm  place  until 
wanted. 

Extract  of  Garlic. 

Peel  one  teacupful  of  cloves  of  garlic,  put  them  in  a  bottle,  pour  in  half  a  pint  of 
spirits  of  wine,  and  cork  tightly.  Shake  the  bottle  occasionally  for  eight  or  ten  days 
and  the  extract  will  then  be  fit  for  use.  A  very  small  quantity  of  the  extract  will  be 
found  sufficient  for  flavoring. 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  855 

Gherkins. 

Put  some  gherkins  into  a  stone  jar  and  cover  them  with  strong  brine  adding  a 
small  piece  of  alum  to  prevent  them  losing  color.  When  they  have  been  soaking  for 
seven  or  eight  days  take  them  out,  put  them  into  fresh  water  and  leave  them  for  two 
or  three  days  in  that.  Boil  some  malt  vinegar  in  a  saucepan  and  let  it  get  nearly 
cold.  Take  the  gherkins  out  of  the  water  and  put  them  in  a  large  pan,  pour  the  cold 
vinegar  over  them,  and  they  are  ready  for  use.  Cloves,  allspice,  cinnamon  and  mus- 
tard may  be  added  to  the  vinegar  before  boiling,  if  desired. 

Herb  Flavoring  for  Sauce,  Soups  and  Stews. 

Remove  all  the  stalks  from  one  ounce  of  dried  thyme,  sweet  basil,  marjoram  and 
bay-leaves,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  one  ounce  each  of  grated  nutmeg,  ground 
mace,  cloves,  and  white  pepper.  Pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  bottle. 

Cucumber  Catsup. 

Pound  some  cucumbers  in  a  mortar;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  leave  them  for  several 
hours  to  extract  the  juice.  Strain  off  the  liquid  by  twisting  in  a  towel,  season  well, 
and  boil.  Pour  into  bottles  and  cork  tightly  until  wanted  for  use. 

Mushroom   Catsup. 

Break  up  the  required  quantity  of  mushrooms,  put  them  in  a  tub,  salt  over  and 
leave  for  two  days.  Afterwards  take  out  all  the  juice  and  strain  into  a  saucepan;  for 
every  pint,  put  in  one  ounce  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper-corns,  six  cloves  and 
a  third  of  an  ounce  of  ginger.  When  boiling,  move  the  catsup  to  the  side  of  the  fire 
and  let  it  simmer  gently. 

Oyster   Catsup. 

Pound  two  dozen  oysters  with  three  anchovies  in  a  mortar  and  season  with  one- 
fourth  ounce  each  of  ground  cloves,  cayenne  pepper  and  ground  mace.  Mix  their 
liquor  with  them,  turn  them  into  a  lined  saucepan,  pour  in  a  pint  of  white  wine  and 
two  wineglassfuls  of  brandy.  Place  the  catsup  over  a  slow  fire  until  boiling,  then 
strain  it  through  a  fine  silk-sieve.  When  cold,  pour  the  catsup  into  bottles  and  keep 
them  tightly  corked  for  use. 

Tomato   Catsup. 

Cut  a  number  of  tomatoes  into  slices,  put  them  in  a  deep  earthenware  pan  in 
layers,  sprinkle  over  a  layer  of  salt  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  salt  for  twelve 
hours.  Put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  preserving-kettle  and  allow  them  to  boil  until 


856  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

they  are  quite  soft;  then  strain  and  squeeze  the  juice  from  them  in  a  thin  linen  cloth. 
Put  the  strained  juice  over  the  fire  with  mace,  cloves,  grated  horse-radish  and  garlic 
to  taste  and  let  it  boil  rapidly  for  thirty  minutes  or  so.  Remove  it  from  the  fire, 
allow  it  to  get  cold,  then  bottle  it,  corking  the  bottles  well  and  dividing  the  spice 
equally  among  the  bottles.  The  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  salicylic  acid  will 
effectually  prevent  fermentation  and  mould.  Eight  grains  stirred  in  after  or  while 
boiling  will  be  sufficient  for  one  quart.  A  piece  of  blotting-paper  made  to  fit  tightly 
over  the  catsup  and  saturated  with  a  concentrated  solution  of  salicylic  acid  in  rum  or 
brandy  will  help  to  keep  it  good.  The  acid  is  entirely  harmless,  with  no  taste  or 
smell  and  can  be  obtained  in  powder  or  crystals,  the  latter  being  preferred.  When 
this  is  used,  care  must  be  taken  never  to  employ  tin  or  metallic  vessels  as  when  it 
comes  in  contact  with  the  metal  it  turns  dark.  Porcelain-lined  vessels  are  the  best. 


Walnut    Catsup. 


Put  one  hundred  green  walnuts  into  a  mortar  and  beat  them  well  until  bruised, 
then  put  £hem  into  a  jar  with  six  ounces  of  chopped  shallots,  a  head  of  garlic,  one- 
half  pound  of  salt,  and  two  quarts  of  vinegar.  Stir  the  contents  of  the  jar  twice  a  day 
for  a  fortnight,  then  strain  off  the  vinegar,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  three  anchovies, 
one  tablespoonful  of  cloves,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  peppercorns  and  one-fourth  of  an 
ounce  of  mace.  Boil  the  vinegar  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  it  off  and  leave  it  until 
cold.  Pour  the  vinegar  into  bottles,  being  careful  not  to  get  any  of  the  sediment 
mi-xed  up  in  it.  Cork  the  bottles  tightly  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  store-cupboard. 


Parsley  Juice   for    Coloring. 


Put  some  leaves  of  parsley  into  a  mortar  to  pound.  Squeeze  the  juice  off  into  a 
jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan,  surround  it  with  boiling  water,  but  do  not  let  the 
water  boil  over  the  edges  (a  bain-marie  is  best),  and  keep  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
till  the  juice  is  warm.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Tomato    Picalilli. 

Chop  fine  one-half  bushel  of  tomatoes  and  squeeze  them  dry,  put  them  into  a 
large  bowl,  and  mix  in  a  couple  of  dozen  minced  onions,  a  dozen  chopped  green  pep- 
pers, four  ounces  of  mustard,  a  little  less  than  a  pint  of  salt,  a  large  root  of  finely- 
grated  horseradish,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  each  of  powdered  cloves  and  allspice. 
When  thoroughly  macerated,  put  the  mixture  into  a  stone  jar,  pour  over  enough  vine- 
gar to  cover,  making  a  slight  hollow  in  the  mixture  to  enable  the  liquor  to  get  to  the 
bottom  of  the  jar,  cover  it  well,  and  let  it  remain  until  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly 
saturated.  It  is  then  ready  for  use. 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  857 

Pickle   of  Brine. 

Pickle  of  brine  is  the  name  usually  given  in  this  country  to  the  liquor  in  which 
substances  used  for  food  are  soaked  in  order  to  give  them  certain  flavors,  or  to  assist 
in  their  preservation.  These  are  commonly  known  to  French  cooks  as  marinades, 
under  which  heading  some  special  recipes  will  be  found.  The  butcher  preserves  meat 
in  brine,  which  is  described  under  that  head.  The  preservation  of  vegetables  and  fruit 
is  described  under  pickles,  but  the  following  recipes  for  the  manufacture  of  pickling 
liquor  used  by  cooks  for  various  purposes  will  be  found  useful: 

(i.)  FOR  BEEF. — Dissolve  nine  quarts  of  salt  in  eighteen  gallons  of  water,  and 
add  two  pounds  of  coarse  brown  sugar  and  eight  ounces  of  saltpeter.  Boil  and  skim 
well.  Let  the  beef  get  thoroughly  cold  and  firm  after  killing,  and  let  as  much  of  the 
blood  as  possible  drain  out  before  putting  it  in  the  pickle.  The  brine  should  be 
boiled  up  and  skimmed  occasionally,  then  it  will  last  for  many  months,  and  suffice  at 
one  time  to  pickle  about  half  an  ordinary  ox. 

(2.)  FOR  HAMS. — For  a  large  ham,  allow  eight  ounces  of  bay  salt,  four  ounces 
of  common  salt,  and  one  ounce  each  of  saltpeter  and  black  pepper.  Rub  the  ham 
well  with  this  mixture  every  day  for  four  days.  At  the  end  of  that  time  pour  eight 
ounces  of  treacle  over  the  ham,  rubbing  it  well  in.  Leave  it  for  a  month,  rubbing 
and  turning  occasionally,  after  which  soak  the  ham  in  cold  water  for  twenty-four 
hours,  then  hang  it  up  to  dry.  When  cooked,  the  ham  should  be  put  in  cold  water 
and  placed  over  a  slow  fire. 

(3.)  FOR  PORK. — Put  in  a  boiler  as  much  water  as  will  well  cover  the  pork. 
When  it  boils,  mix  in  salt  by  degrees.  To  ascertain  whether  there  is  salt  enough  in 
the  water,  put  an  egg  in,  and  when  it  floats,  there  is  sufficient.  Pour  the  brine  in  an 
earthenware  jar  and  let  it  cool.  It  is  then  ready  to  pour  over  the  pork. 

(4.)  FOR  TONGUE. — Crush  eight  ounces  of  common  salt  with  two  ounces  of 
saltpeter,  and  mix  them  with  one  pound  of  treacle.  When  the  tongue  is  prepared, 
rub  it  over  with  the  above  mixture.  It  should  be  kept  in  pickle  for  a  fortnight,  being 
turned  and  well  rubbed  occasionally. 

(5.)  FOR  MACKEREL. — For  one  pint  of  vinegar  allow  one-third  teacupful  of 
beer,  three  bay  leaves,  one-half  ounce  of  ground  allspice,  one-fourth  ounce  each  of 
salt  and  pepper,  and  one-third  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper.  Mix  all  these  ingre- 
dients together,  and  pour  them  over  the  fish.  A  sufficient  quantity  of  pickle  should 
be  made  to  cover  the  fish  completely. 

(6.)  FOR  SALMON. — Mix  with  one  quart  of  the  cooking  liquor  of  the  fish  three 
gills  of  vinegar,  four  blades  of  mace,  four  bay  leaves,  three  pieces  of  whole  ginger, 
one-fourth  ounce  each  of  black  pepper  and  allspice,  and  a  little  salt.  Boil  the  liquor 
for  half  an  hour,  then  pour  it  over  the  fish,  which  should  be  laid  in  a  deep  dish  or  jar, 
and  cover  it  with  another  dish  to  keep  the  air  out. 


858  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

Pickled   Beet-Roots. 

Slice  and  cut  into  squares  as  many  cold  cooked  beet-roots  as  needed  and  place 
them  in  wide-mouthed  pickle  bottles;  boil  enough  vinegar  to  cover  them,  a  blade  of 
mace,  half  an  ounce  of  ginger  root  and  a  little  scraped  horseradish  to  each  pint;  pour 
in  while  hot  and  cork  and  tie  down  with  wet  bladder  while  cooling. 

Pickled    Red    Cabbage. 

Take  three  red  cabbages,  trim  them  and  remove  the  stalks;  cut  them  into  thin 
slices  and  lay  on  a  dish  and  cover  with  salt,  leaving  them  there  for  twelve  hours;  at 
the  expiration  of  which  time  wash  and  salt  off  the  cabbage,  draining  well,  and  place 
in  a  stone  jar,  mixing  in  some  thyme,  mint  and  parsley  and  peppercorns;  pour  in 
enough  strong  white  vinegar  to  cover,  place  the  lid  on  the  jar  and  let  it  remain  there 
for  four  weeks,  when  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Pickled   White    Cabbage. 

Take  four  large  cabbages  and  remove  all  tough  portions  and  the  stalks,  cut  them 
into  slices,  put  them  in  an  earthen  jar  or  wooden  tub,  sprinkle  over  a  half  pint  of  salt 
and  allow  it  to  stand  over  night.  The  next  day  draw  off  the  brine,  put  the  cabbage 
over  the  fire,  with  four  peeled  and  chopped  onions,  four  ounces  of  mustard  seed,  two 
ounces  each  of  ground  mustard-seed,  celery-seed  and  turmeric,  one  ounce  each  of 
whole  mace,  cloves,  allspice  and  pepper,  two  pounds  of  brown  sugar  and  enough  vin- 
egar to  cover  the  whole.  Boil  well  until  the  stalks  of  the  cabbage  are  tender,  then 
cool  and  pickle,  keeping  in  air-tight  jars. 

Pickled    Cauliflowers. 

Take  two  cauliflowers  which  have  been  cut  up,  one  pint  of  small  onions  and 
three  medium-sized  red  peppercorns;  dissolve  one-half  pint  of  salt  in  water  enough  to 
cover  the  vegetables,  and  after  allowing  them  to  stand  in  this  all  night  drain  off  the 
water.  Boil  two  quarts  of  vinegar  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  mustard  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  turmeric,  then  put  in  the  vegetables  and  boil  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  or  until  the  cauliflower  is  tender.  Put  the  cauliflower  into  wide-mouthed 
bottles  or  jars  and  pour  the  hot  vinegar  over  them. 


Pickled  Celery. 


Cut  the  stalks  from  three  heads  of  celery  into  equal  lengths;  wash  these 
thoroughly  in  plenty  of  water,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  cover  them  with  brine  sufficiently 
strong  to  bear  an  egg,  and  leave  them  for  a  week  or  ten  days.  At  the  end  of  that 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  859 

time  refresh  the  celery  by  placing  it  in  plenty  of  clean  cold  water,  and  set  it  on  a 
sieve  where  it  may  remain  until  it  is  dry.  Boil  enough  vinegar  to  cover  the  spices 
with  any  kind  that  may  be  desired.  Place  the  celery  in  a  jar,  pour  over  it  the  boiling 
vinegar,  and  leave  it  until  the  vinegar  is  cold;  then  cover  the  top  of  the  jar  with 
stout  brown  paper,  and  tie  it  down  tightly.  Place  it  in  a  dry  cupboard,  and  use  it  as 
required. 

Pickled  Corn. 

Pluck  the  corn  while  still  unripe  and  about  the  size  of  the  little  finger.  Peel  off 
the  leaves,  and  lay  the  ears  in  a  pickle-jar,  with  a  few  small  pieces  of  basilicum  and 
a  few  bay-leaves  mixed  with  them.  Put  enough  vinegar  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire 
to  cover,  and  when  boiling  pour  it  over  the  corn.  When  the  vinegar  has  cooled  tie 
a  piece  of  wet  parchment  or  thick  paper  over  the  top  of  the  jar,  and  leave  for  a  fort- 
night or  so  before  using  the  pickle. 

Pickled   Cucumbers. 

Select  two  or  three  dozen  large  cucumbers,  cut  a  piece  out  of  the  sides  and  scoop 
out  the  seeds  with  a  spoon.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  cucumbers  be  not  over- 
ripe or  yellow  at  the  ends.  Place  in  a  vessel  of  salted  water,  and  let  them  remain 
for  nine  days,  or  until  they  become  yellow,  stirring  them  up  every  two  or  three  days, 
then  take  them  out,  put  into  a  saucepan  with  a  good  supply  of  vine  leaves,  both 
under  and  over,  pour  in  the  brine  in  which  they  were  soaked,  place  the  saucepan 
over  the  fire  and  boil  slowly  for  about  five  hours,  take  them  out  and  drain  dry. 
Stuff  the  cavity  of  each  with  a  little  horseradish,  garlic,  capsicum,  mustard  seed 
and  peppercorns,  care  being  taken  to  keep  each  ingredient  as  separate  as  possible 
without  mixing;  continue  in  layers  until  the  cavity  is  filled  up,  then  place  in  its 
proper  position  the  piece  that  was  cut  out,  and  sew  it  up.  Then  into  a  saucepan 
pour  one  gallon  or  so  of  vinegar,  enough  to  cover  the  cucumbers;  add  to  each  gallon 
one  ounce  each  of  cloves  and  mace,  two  ounces  each  of  long  pepper,  ginger  in  slices, 
and  Jamaica  pepper,  and  three  ounces  of  mustard  seed,  all  tied  in  a  muslin  bag;  also 
add  a  root  of  a  horseradish  cut  lengthwise  into  strips,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
cloves  of  garlic.  Place  the  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  boil  for  about  five  minutes;  re- 
move the  bag  of  spice,  pour  the  whole  over  the  cucumbers  in  jars  sufficient  to  cover 
them,  tie  them  over  securely  and  let  them  remain  for  five  or  six  days,  when  they  will 
be  ready  for  service. 

Pickled  Cucumbers  (Like  Mango  Pickles). 

Take  young,  but  fully  grown,  cucumbers,  cut  a  small  piece  out  of  the  side  of 
each  and  scoop  out  the  seeds,  cover  with  salt  and  let  stand  for  one  night.  Cut  up 
into  small  pieces  an  equal  quantity  of  horseradish,  shallots  and  caper;  mix  them  to- 
gether with  quarter  their  bulk  of  mustard  seeds,  the  third  of  a  grated  nutmeg,  one 


86o  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

teaspoonful  of  bruised  cloves  and  a  small  quantity  of  white  pepper.  On  the  follow- 
ing day  dry  the  cucumbers  on  a  cloth  and  stuff  with  the  above  mixture.  Fix  the 
pieces  that  were  taken  out  of  the  sides  in  their  places  and  bind  them  with  twine  to 
keep  them  in  position.  Put  in  large  jars,  packing  them  closely  together,  and  pour 
over  enough  vinegar  to  cover  them.  Tie  a  piece  of  strong  paper  over  each  jar  and 
put  in  a  cool,  dry  place  till  wanted. 

Pickled   Eggs. 

Put  twenty  eggs  into  a  net,  then  into  a  saucepan  with  more  than  enough  boiling 
water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  for  thirty  minutes;  then  plunge  them  into  cold  water, 
remove  the  shells,  and  put  them  into  a  jar.  Pour  six  breakfast  cupfuls  of  brown 
vinegar  into  a  saucepan;  add  half  an  ounce  each  of  bruised  mace,  white  ginger,  cori- 
ander seeds,  cardamons  and  cloves,  and  ten  chillies,  also  one  ounce  of  sugar,  and  boil 
for  a  few  minutes.  Let  the  pickle  get  cold,  pour  it  over  the  eggs,  and  cover  over. 

Pickled     Garlic. 

Take  one  pound  of  garlic,  remove  the  skin,  divide  them  into  cloves,  put  them  on 
a  flat  dish  or  board  and  sprinkle  over  with  salt.  Let  them  remain  for  two  or  three 
days,  then  wipe  and  put  them  in  the  open  air  to  dry.  Put  one  ounce  each  of  pepper- 
corns and  bruised  mustard  seeds  into  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  more  of  vinegar  and 
add  a  little  salt,  set  the  pan  on  the  fire,  boil,  skim  well  and  plunge  the  garlic  in, 
taking  care  that  it  is  entirely  covered  with  the  vinegar.  Let  it  remain  in  for  three 
minutes,  allow  the  liquor  to  cool,  and  put  it  in  a  large  jar.  Tie  the  jar  down  securely 
with  skin  or  wet  parchment,  and  it  can  then  be  stored  for  use. 

Pickled    Lemons. 

Wipe  two  dozen  or  so  of  lemons,  rub  them  well  with  salt,  put  them  in  a  bowl, 
cover  with  more  salt,  and  allow  them  to  remain  for  four  or  five  days,  turning  occa- 
sionally. Take  them  out  to  dry  on  a  sieve  in  the  sun,  and  pack  in  jars,  sprinkling 
over  evenly  two  ounces  each  of  bruised  white  ginger  and  white  peppers,  one-fourth 
ounce  red  peppers,  and  one-half  ounce  each  of  coriander  and  mustard  seeds.  Pour 
over  enough  vinegar  to  cover,  let  them  remain  .for  three  weeks,  then  add  enough 
vinegar  to  make  up  for  the  quantity  absorbed,  tie  down,  and  the  pickle  will  be  ready 
for  use  in  six  weeks,  though  if  left  for  six  months  it  will  be  much  better. 


Pickled   Mangoes. 


Remove  the  peel  from  as  many  mangoes  as  may  be  required,  cut  them  into 
halves  to  remove  the  stones,  rub  well  with  salt,  and  put  them  in  the  sun  for  two  or 
three  days  Wipe  well,  and  stuff  each  with  a  mixture  of  two  cloves  of  garlic,  two 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  861 

cloves,  one  stick  of  cinnamon,  a  few  slices  of  green  ginger  and  green  peppers,  and  a 
few  onion  seeds  pounded  together  in  a  mortar;  fasten  the  heads  together  with  thin 
thread  or  cotton,  put  them  into  wide-mouthed  bottles,  pour  over  sufficient  vinegar  to 
cover,  cork  down  tightly,  and  stand  them  in  the  sun  for  about  twenty  days.  One  or 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  mustard  oil,  if  poured  over  the  pickle  before  adding  the  vinegar, 
will  prevent  its  spoiling.  The  pickle  will  not  be  ready  for  use  until  it  has  been  in  the 
bottles  for  two  or  three  months,  or  possibly  four  months. 

Pickled   Mushrooms. 

Secure  sufficient  small  fresh  mushrooms,  cut  the  stalks  off  short  and  remove 
the  skins  with  a  piece  of  flannel  dipped  in  salt.  Place  them  in  a  stewpan  together 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  pounded  mace  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  ground  pepper  for 
each  pint,  dredge  with  salt  and  toss  over  a  moderate  fire.  After  the  juice  has  run 
from  them,  and  has  all  dried  up,  pour  in  enough  vinegar  to  cover;  boil  for  about 
three  minutes,  then  turn  all  into  jars  or  wide-mouthed  bottles.  On  the  day  follow- 
ing, cover  the  jars  or  bottles  with  parchment,  tie  down  securely,  see  that  they  are 
perfectly  air-tight  and  stow  them  away  in  a  dry  cupboard  for  future  use. 

Pickled   Onions. 

Put  the  desired  quantity  of  small  onions  into  hot  water  and  then  peel  them; 
place  them  in  fresh  salted  water  with  a  small  piece  of  alum  in  it,  and  leave  them  until 
the  following  day;  drain  off  the  water,  add  more  fresh  water  with  more  salt  and  alum 
and  leave  them  a  day  longer.  Afterwards  drain  and  put  them  into  jars,  placing  in  each 
jar  one  or  two  blades  of  mace,  one  or  two  red-peppers,  a  few  white  peppercorns  and 
a  small  quantity  of  horseradish.  Pour  in  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  the  onions  well, 
cork  the  jars,  cover  with  parchment,  tie  them  down  and  keep  in  a  dry  store-cup- 
board. In  a  month  they  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Pickled   Onions   and   Cucumbers. 

Peel  twelve  cucumbers  and  three  large  onions,  cut  them  all  into  thick  slices  and 
sprinkle  over  with  salt.  Leave  them  thus  for  a  day,  then  drain  well,  put  them  in  a  stone- 
jar,  pour  over  sufficient  boiling  vinegar  to  cover  and  keep  them  in  a  warm  place  for 
a  day.  Drain  off  the  vinegar  again  and  repeat  the  process  till  both  the  onions  and 
cucumbers  are  quite  green,  adding  a  little  pepper  and  ginger,  the  last  time  of  boiling. 
Tie  down  and  pack  away  in  a  cool  place. 


Pickled   Spanish   Onions. 


Peel    some   onions,   cut  a    small  round   piece  out  of    the  bottom   of    each   and 
scoop  out  a  little  of  the  inside.     Put  them  in  a  vessel  with  salt  and  water  to  cover 


862  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

and  let  them  remain  for  two  or  three  days,  changing  the  water  two  or  three  times. 
Afterwards  drain  and  stuff  the  onions  as  follows:  First  put  in  a  little  ground  mustard- 
seed,  then  some  ginger  with  a  little  mace  and  shallot,  add  more  mustard  and  fill  up 
with  grated  horseradish.  Replace  the  bottom  pieces  and  bind  the  onions  round 
with  string  to  keep  them  in  place.  Make  a  strong  pickle  of  white  vinegar,  mace, 
ginger,  nutmeg,  sliced  horseradish  and  a  little  salt;  put  in  the  onions  and  let  them 
boil  up  three  times  care  being  taken  that  they  do  not  boil  too  much,  for  in  that 
case  they  would  lose  their  firmness  and  would  not  keep.  Put  them  with  the 
pickle  into  jars,  leave  them  till  the  following  day,  then  strain  off  the  liquor,  boil 
it  up  and  pour  it  over  the  onions  again.  When  the  pickle  is  cold,  tie  the  jars 
over  first  with  wet  bladder,  and  then  with  leather  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  dry 
store-cupboard  for  use. 

Pickled   Oysters. 

Thoroughly  cleanse  and  beard  four  dozen  oysters,  put  them  into  a  saucepan, 
strain  their  liquor  over  them,  season  well  with  salt,  allspice,  cloves,  and  mace,  and 
boil  for  a  few  minutes.  When  plump  pour  one-half  pint  of  vinegar  over  the  oysters, 
boil  them  up  again,  turn  them  into  earthenware  jars,  and  leave  until  cold ;  then  cover 
over  each  jar  with  stout  paper,  tie  down,  and  put  them  in  a  dry  cupboard  for  use. 

Pickled    Tomatoes. 

Put  enough  vinegar  to  cover  a  peck  of  tomatoes  into  a  saucepan  with  one  ounce 
each  of  black  pepper  and  cloves,  and  two  ounces  of  mustard  seed.  Prick  one  peck  of 
tomatoes  all  over,  and  let  so  much  of  the  juice  as  possible  run  into  the  saucepan  with 
the  vinegar ;  boil  well,  stirring  often,  and  allow  the  liquor  to  get  quite  cold.  Put  the 
tomatoes  in  layers  in  a  deep  pan  with  salt  sprinkled  over  them,  and  at  the  end  of 
three  days  wash  off  all  the  salt.  Put  them  back  into  the  deep  pan  or  jar,  pour  over 
the  vinegar  taking  care  that  it  is  quite  cold,  cover,  and  in  the  course  of  ten  or  twelve 
days  the  pickle  will  be  ready  for  use. 

French    Pickles. 

Slice  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  cover  them  plentifully  with  salt,  and  leave  them 
for  one  night.  Cut  one-fourth  peck  of  onions  into  slices,  and  put  a  thick  layer  of  them 
in  a  metal  kettle;  then  put  in  a  layer  of  the  tomatoes,  a  layer  of  onions,  and  so  on  until 
all  are  used.  Sprinkle  between  each  layer  some  of  the  following  spices:  Four  ounces 
of  white  mustard  seed,  one  ounce  each  of  cloves,  allspice,  and  celery  seed,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
mixed  mustard.  Cover  the  above  ingredients  with  vinegar  and  boil  them  well  for  one 
hour.  At  the  end  of  that  time  pack  the  pickles  in  jars,  and  pour  the  vinegar  over  them. 
When  cold,  tie  some  stout  paper  over  the  jars,  and  keep  in  a  dry  store-cupboard. 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  863 

Green    Pickles. 

Make  a  brine  of  salt  and  water  strong  enough  to  float  a  fresh  egg,  and  put  in  it 
the  vegetables  to  be  pickled,  green  tomatoes,  gherkins,  snap  beans,  cucumbers,  etc., 
and  let  them  remain  in  it  for  a  fortnight  (a  longer  time  will  not  hurt  them).  They  must 
be  well  covered  with  grape  leaves,  and  sufficient  weight  must  be  put  on  them  to  keep 
them  well  down  under  the  brine.  When  the  vegetables  are  taken  out  of  this  brine 
they  must  be  steeped  in  weak  vinegar  for  several  days,  then  put  over  the  fire  in  two 
quarts  of  strong  vinegar  (which  quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  four  quarts  of  vegeta- 
bles), two  ounces  of  long  pepper,  two  ounces  of  mustard-seed,  one  ounce  of  celery- 
seed,  one-half  an  ounce  each  of  cloves  and  mace,  three  red  pepper  pods,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  horseradish,  and  sugar  to  taste;  when  this  boils  have  the  pickles 
drained  from  the  weak  vinegar  and  put  into  jars,  and  pour  the  vinegar  over  them 
boiling  hot. 

Mixed    Pickles. 

Mix  in  equal  quantities  some  small  cucumbers,  sliced  green  tomatoes,  cauliflower 
picked  into  small  flowerets  and  small  button-onions.  Put  them  in  a  large  vessel,  cover 
with  strongly-salted  water  and  let  them  steep  for  twenty-four  hours.  Then  drain  the 
brine  from  the  pickles,  scald  it  and  dissolve  in  it  a  piece  of  alum  the  size  of  a  nutmeg. 
Pour  the  boiling  brine  over  the  pickles.  When  cold  strain  the  brine  off  and  prepare 
as  many  quarts  of  vinegar  as  there  are  quarts  of  brine.  To  each  quart  of  vinegar 
allow  one  breakfast  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  one  teacupful  of  flour  and  four  ounces  of 
ground  mustard.  Boil  the  sugar  and  vinegar.  Mix  the  flour  and  mustard  smooth 
with  a  very  little  water,  then  stir  the  boiling  vinegar  gradually  into  it.  When  quite 
smooth  pour  it  over  the  pickles.  When  cold  tie  stout  paper  over  the  jar. 

Mustard   Pickles. 

This  name  is  given  to  a  variety  of  pickles  containing  mustard.  Several  recipes 
of  this  kind  will  be  found  among  those  here  given. 

Piccalilli. 

Bruise  four  ounces  of  mustard-seed,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  three  pints  of 
vinegar  and  boil  it,  remove  from  the  fire  and  let  it  get  cold.  Cut  four  ounces  of 
ginger  into  slices,  separate  four  ounces  of  garlic  into  cloves,  put  them  into  a  jar  with 
one-half  ounce  each  of  turmeric  and  whole  pepper  and  a  little  saffron.  Strain  the 
vinegar,  boil  it  up  again  and  pour  it  while  boiling  over  the  contents  of  the  jar,  then 
cover  the  jar  close  and  leave  it  till  the  vinegar  is  cold.  Prepare  whatever  vegetables 
may  have  been  selected  for  the  pickle,  wash  them  well,  rub  them  over  with  salt  and 
dry  them  in  the  sun  for  a  day  or  two.  When  ready  put  the  vegetables  in  the  vinegar, 


864  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

cover  and  tie  the  jar  over  with   parchment  and  put  it  in  a  dry  store-cupboard.     In 
about  six  weeks  the  pickles  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Green   Nectarine   Pickles. 

Put  a  thin  layer  of  salt  on  a  dish,  over  this  put  a  layer  of  green  nectarines,  then 
salt  and  more  fruit,  and  continue  in  this  way  until  as  much  fruit  is  used  as  is  desired. 
Cover  over  with  a  thick  coating  of  salt  and  let  it  remain  for  four  or  five  days.  Care- 
fully take  out  the  fruit,  wipe  dry  and  place  in  the  sun  for  two  or  three  days,  turning 
frequently;  then  pack  away  in  jars.  Have  ready  a  mixture  sufficient  to  cover  the 
fruit  composed  of  one  ounce  each  of  white  ginger,  red  peppers,  allspice  and  cloves, 
one-half  ounce  of  sugar,  one  shallot  and  six  green  peppers  to  each  quart  of  vinegar. 
Let  the  vinegar  boil  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  remove  from  the  fire,  add  and  dissolve 
in  it  a  very  small  quantity  of  alum,  which  will  help  to  make  the  fruit  crisp;  when 
cold  pour  this  over  the  fruit,  then  cover  the  jars  and  put  away  for  use. 

Spanish   Pickles. 

Pull  in  pieces  the  flower  of  a  small  head  of  cauliflower  and  cut  in  pieces  about 
one  inch  long  eighteen  large  white  cucumbers.  If  the  cucumbers  are  fresh  let  them 
steep  in  brine  for  twenty-four  hours;  but  if  they  have  been  kept  in  brine  soak 
them  for  three  days  in  pure  cold  water  before  cutting  them  up.  Put  the  pieces 
of  cucumber  and  cauliflower  over  the  fire,  cover  with  water,  add  a  little  salt  and  let 
them  simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Cut  twelve  small  onions  in  quarters,  put 
them  in  a  little  fresh  milk  and  water  over  the  fire,  add  a  little  salt  and  let  them  cook 
,till  just  tender,  but  not  soft.  Steep  four  green  peppers  in  weak  brine  for  twelve  or 
fourteen  hours.  Let  all  drain  till  next  day,  then  put  them  into  a  pan  with  one-half 
ounce  each  of  light-colored  turmeric,  celery  seed  rolled  and  white  mustard,  two  ounces 
of  the  best  English  table-mustard  and  one  saltspoonful  of  prepared  corn  starch, 
blended  with  a  little  vinegar  and  eight  ounces  of  loaf  sugar.  Add  sufficient  vinegar 
to  cover  and  let  it  boil  till  it  begins  to  thicken.  Let  it  cool  a  little  and  then  put 
it  in  glass  jars  with  glass  tops. 

Green   Tomato    Pickles. 

Select  fully-grown  green  tomatoes  just  before  they  begin  to  open,  slice  them  and 
put  them  in  layers  in  large  jars,  strewing  plenty  of  salt  over  each  layer.  Allow  them 
to  remain  for  ten  or  twelve  hours,  then  put  them  in  a  preserving-pan,  adding  for 
every  five  pounds  of  tomatoes  one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one-half  pound  of  sliced 
small  onions,  two  sliced  green  pepper  pods,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  peppercorns  and 
cloves,  half  a  stick  of  cinnamon  and  one-fourth  teaspoonful  each  of  cayenne  pepper, 
also  one  quart  of  vinegar.  Drain  the  tomatoes,  put  them  in  with  the  above  ingre- 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  865 

clients  and  allow  the  whole  to  simmer  gently  at  the  side  of  the  fire.  When  the  toma- 
toes are  tender  turn  them  with  the  pickling  ingredients  into  jars,  leave  them  cold,  and 
then  paste  stout  paper  over  the  top  of  each  jar.  The  pickle  will  be  better  preserved 
if  the  jars  are  small.  Pack  them  away  for  use  in  a  cool,  dry  store-cupboard.  This 
forms  an  excellent  relish  for  cold  meat  or  cheese. 

Walnut   Pickles. 

Put  a  quantity  of  the  green  rinds  or  outer  shells  of  ripe  walnuts  into  a  tub  that 
has  a  tap,  sprinkle  them  with  water  and  prop  the  tub  up  on  the  side  opposite  to  the 
tap.  Place  a  vessel  under  the  tap  to  receive  the  liquor  which  will  soon  begin  to  drip 
from  it.  When  a  sufficient  quantity  has  passed  through  add  to  one  gallon  of  it  a 
stick  of  horseradish,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  couple  of  bay  leaves,  a  good-sized 
onion,  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  each  of  bruised  ginger,  allspice  and  black  pepper  and 
two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  salt.  Put  it  over  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for  twenty 
minutes;  strain  and  allow  it  to  stand  until  cold.  Then  stir  it  up  and  put  it  into  bot- 
tles, placing  an  equal  quantity  of  the  spices  that  were  boiled  in  it  into  each  bottle 
and  corking  them  well. 

Potato   Yeast. 

Have  in  readiness  a  kettle  containing  three  quarts  of  boiling  water;  peel  and 
thoroughly  wash  three  large  potatoes  and  place  them  into  a  basin  to  soak.  Next 
put  half  a  teacupful  of  flour  into  a  bowl  with  an  equal  amount  of  sugar  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt;  over  these  grate  the  potatoes  quickly  and  stir  the  whole  well  with  a 
wooden  spoon  so  that  it  will  not  become  of  a  dark  color,  which  it  will  attain  if  not 
done  very  quickly.  Pour  a  pint  of  the  boiling  water  over  the  grater  into  the  bowl, 
stirring  it  into  the.  mixture,  and  add  enough  more  of  the  boiling  water  to  make  the 
mixture  of  the  consistency  of  thin  starch.  Should  the  preparation  refuse  to  thicken 
put  in  a  double  boiler  over  the  fire  and  stir  it  constantly  until  it  does  thicken;  then 
pour  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  bowl  and  let  it  cool.  When  lukewarm  all  through 
stir  in  a  breakfast  cupful  of  yeast,  place  a  light  covering  over  the  bowl  and  set  in  a 
warm  but  not  hot  place  and  let  it  remain  there  until  it  is  light  and  covered  with  a 
white  foam.  When  it  commences  to  rise  beat  it  well  and  when  it  has  thoroughly 
risen  pour  it  off  into  wide-mouthed  earthen  jars,  let  it  remain  for  twelve  hours,  then 
cover  the  jars  over  tightly  and  put  in  a  cool  place.  Half  a  pint  or  so  of  the  yeast 
should  be  put  into  a  glass  jar  for  making  the  succeeding  lot  of  potato  yeast.  The 
jars  should  always  be  well  shaken  before  the  yeast  is  used  and  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place. 

Preserved   Green-Corn. 

Select  very  full  ears  of  tender  corn,  remove  the  husk  and  silks,  cut  the  corn 
from  the  cob  with  the  back  of  a  knife,  pack  it  in  glass  jars,  filling  them  and  pressing 


866  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

the  corn  down,  and  then  close  them  with  rubber  and  porcelain-lined  covers.  Place 
some  laths  across  the  bottom  of  a  large  boiler,  and  fill  it  with  jars  of  corn,  laying  a 
little  straw  or  hay  against  each  to  prevent  them  from  knocking  against  one  another 
during  the  boiling.  Pour  in  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  the  jars  to  half  their 
height,  place  the  boiler  over  the  fire  with  a  cloth,  and  the  cover  over  it,  and  boil  the 
corn  continually  for  three  hours,  being  careful  to  see  that  there  is  water  enough  to 
furnish  a  full  volume  of  steam.  Take  up  the  jars  and  screw  the  covers  as  tightly  as 
possible.  When  the  jars  are  cold  again  screw  the  covers,  and  keep  the  corn  in  a  cool, 
dark  place. 

Mango,   Preserved. 

Put  a  hundred  or  so  medium-sized  green  mangoes  into  a  bowl  of  cold  water  to 
steep;  grate  off  the  outer  coat  very  fine,  cut  them  lengthwise  in  order  to  remove 
the  stones,  and  throw  them  into  weak  lime-water.  Put  them  into  a  preserving-pan 
with  enough  water  to  cover,  parboil,  skimming  frequently;  then  turn  them  out  onto  a 
sieve  and  drain.  Have  ready  a  sufficient  quantity  of  syrup,  made  of  eight  pounds  of 
sugar,  put  in  the  mangoes  and  let  them  simmer  in  this,  removing  all  the  scum,  until 
the  sugar  commences  to  crystallize;  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  allow  the  con- 
tents to  cool,  put  the  mangoes  and  syrup  into  wide-mouthed  bottles  or  jars,  and  cork 
down  when  quite  cold.  Let  them  remain  for  two  or  three  days,  and  should  the  syrup 
be  getting  thin,  reboil  it,  adding  the  mangoes  for  a  few  minutes  at  the  end  of  the 
boiling,  and  bottling  again.  This  process  should  be  repeated  until  there  is  no  further 
sign  of  fermentation,  corking  down  when  quite  cold.  This  preserve  will  remain  good 
for  a  number  of  years  if  kept  in  a  cool  dry  place.  Enough  syrup  should  be  prepared 
at  first,  so  that  on  the  completion  of  the  boiling  there  will  be  enough  to  cover  the 
mangoes. 

Preserved    Mushrooms. 

Choose  the  largest  button-mushrooms  and  wash  them  in  vinegar,  place  them  on 
a  fine  sieve,  sprinkle  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  and  allow  them  to  drain.  Then 
place  them  in  a  deep  dish  in  a  cool  oven,  and  in  about  an  hour's  time  drain  them 
again.  Pour  all  the  juice  that  ran  from  them  into  a  lined  stewpan,  mix  with  a  blade 
or  two  of  mace,  and  then  boil  until  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity;  move  it  from 
the  fire  and  let  it  get  cold.  Put  the  mushrooms  into  large  earthenware  jars,  and  pour 
the  cold  liquor  over  them.  Melt  some  suet  in  a  stewpan,  and  pour  a  layer  of  it  on 
each  jar;  when  cold  and  hardened  cover  the  jars  with  bladder,  tie  them  down,  and 
keep  them  in  a  dry  store-cupboard. 

Preserved   Parsley   for   Winter   Use. 

Tie  some  fresh-washed  parsley  in  bunches,  having  first  carefully  picked  it  over, 
put  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt  and  boil  for  three  or  four  min- 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  867 

utes;  then  place  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  Dry  it  slowly  in  front  of  a  brisk  fire,  and  when 
sufficiently  so  to  almost  crumble,  put  it  into  bottles.  When  the  parsley  is  required 
for  use,  soak  it  in  warm  water  for  two  or  three  minutes.  Although  not  equal  to  fresh 
parsley,  it  answers  very  well  when  the  other  cannot  be  procured. 

Preserved   Tomatoes. 

Procure  eight  pounds  of  perfectly  sound  green  tomatoes  and  put  them  in  a  pre- 
serving-pan with  the  thinly-pared  rind  and  strained  juice  of  four  or  five  lemons  and 
two  ounces  of  whole  ginger.  Place  them  over  a  brisk  fire  until  tender,  then  put  in 
eight  pounds  of  coarsely-crushed  loaf  sugar  and  boil  the  whole  quickly  until  thickly 
reduced,  stirring  it  frequently  and  keeping  it  well-skimmed.  When  the  preserve  is 
sufficiently  cooked,  remove  the  ginger,  turn  it  into  jars,  and  when  cold,  tie  over 
tightly  for  future  use. 

Preserved  Truffles. 

Wash  well  and  scrub  the  required  number  or  quantity  of  truffles  which  should  be 
quite  black  and  freshly  gathered,  peel  them  carefully  rather  thin,  pack  them  closely 
in  bottles,  cork  them  tightly,  place  them  in  the  bain-marie  or  in  a  saucepan  of  water 
and  cook  them  gently  for  an  hour  or  so.  Allow  the  bottles  to  cool  before  taking 
them  out;  put  them  in  a  dry  place  and  the  truffles  will  remain  good  for  a  long  time. 

Removing   Salt    from   Butter. 

Place  three  or  four  pounds  of  salted  butter  in  a  bowl,  pouring  over  it  sufficient 
water  to  cover  and  beat  until  the  water  is  slightly  colored;  then  pour  off  the  water 
and  add  some  more  and  keep  on  in  this  manner  until  the  water  remains  quite  clear 
after  the  beating. 

Aristocratic  Sauce. 

Mix  one  pound  of  anchovies,  and  about  one-half  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves, 
mace  and  Jamaica  ginger  with  one  pint  of  juice  that  has  been  pressed  from  some 
green  walnuts  and  permitted  to  settle,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  them  until 
the  anchovies  are  dissolved,  strain  the  boiled  liquor  into  another  saucepan,  add  six 
shallots,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  soy,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  vinegar,  and  one-half 
breakfast  cupful  of  port  wine.  When  boiled,  leave  the  sauce  until  cold,  then  put  it 
into  bottles,  and  keep  it  corked  until  wanted  for  serving. 

Cardinal   Fish   Sauce. 

Mix  together  one  pint  of  vinegar,  one  gill  of  port  wine,  one  tablespoonful  of 
anchovy  liquor,  one  dessert  spoonful  of  walnut  catsup,  one-fourth  ounce  of  cayenne, 
two  drams  of  cochineal  and  three  cloves  of  garlic.  Let  it  stand  for  four  days,  giving 


868  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

it  about  six  good  stirrings  during  that  time.     Strain  it  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  put 
it  in  small  bottles. 

Chef  Sauce  for  Steaks,  Etc. 

Peel  six  shallots,  cut  them  into  halves,  put  them  in  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  with 
one-half  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  soy;  pour  in  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  mushroom  catsup,  shake  the  contents  of  the  bottle  well,  and  fill  it  up 
with  the  best  vinegar.  Shake  the  bottle  occasionally  for  two  days,  then  leave  it  un- 
touched for  four  days  longer.  Pour  off  one-half  pint  of  the  sauce  into  a  smaller 
bottle,  which  keep  corked  for  present  use;  fill  up  the  larger  bottle  again  with  more 
vinegar,  cork  it  tightly,  and  leave  it  for  about  a  month  before  using  the  sauce. 

Gourmet's  Sauce. 

Macerate  together  for  two  or  three  weeks  two  quarts  of  good  mushroom  catsup, 
one  quart  each  of  walnut  catsup  and  port  wine,  one-half  pint  each  of  chili  vinegar 
and  soy,  one  breakfast  cupful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  four  ounces  each  of  bruised 
garlic  and  white  pepper,  one  ounce  of  bruised  chillies,  and  one  ounce  each  of  mace 
and  cloves.  Strain  through  a  coarse  muslin,  and  bottle  for  future  use.  This  sauce 
is  improved  by  keeping. 

Governor's   Sauce. 

Cut  one-half  peck  of  green  tomatoes  in  slices,  lay  them  in  a  deep  dish,  strew 
over  them  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  salt  and  leave  them  for  one  day.  Then 
drain  them  free  from  their  liquor,  lay  them  in  a  saucepan  with  three  or  four  chillies 
either  green  or  red,  three  finely-chopped  onions,  one  tablespoonful  of  grated  horse- 
radish, two  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  one-fourth  ounce  each  of  cloves  and  allspice  and 
one-half  teaspoonful  each  of  white  and  cayenne  pepper.  Pour  in  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  vinegar  to  cover  them  and  cook  them  over  a  slow  fire.  When  the  toma- 
toes are  soft  turn  them  with  the  vinegar  and  other  ingredients  in  small  stone  or 
earthenware  jars  and  leave  them  till  cold;  then  close  the  jars  well,  sealing  them 
air-tight,  and  pack  them  away  for  use. 

Harvey   Sauce. 

Prepare  twelve  fluid-ounces  of  sauce  made  with  mushroom  and  walnut  cat- 
sup, garlic,  soy  and  sprats,  using  in  proportion  one-half  gallon  each  of  the  cat- 
sup to  one-half  pint  of  soy,  four  ounces  of  garlic  and  one  and  one-half  pounds 
of  sprats,  and  boiling  these  together  for  fifteen  minutes  and  straining.  Put  this 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  more  soy  and  one  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  and  stir 
over  the  fire  till  warm. 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  869 

Hot   Sauce. 

Scald  ripe,  sound  tomatoes,  peel  and  weigh  them;  to  five  pounds  add  one 
pound  of  onions  peeled  and  sliced,  five  ounces  of  fresh  red  peppers,  weighed  after  the 
seeds  are  taken  out  and  then  chopped  fine,  four  ounces  of  brown  sugar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt  and  one  pint  of  vinegar.  Put  all  these  ingredients  over  the  fire  in  a 
porcelain-lined  pan  and  boil  slowly,  stirring  frequently  to  prevent  burning,  and  after 
the  sauce  begins  to  boil  it  must  be  stirred  almost  incessantly.  It  should  be  boiled 
until  it  is  about  the  consistency  of  apple  sauce.  When  it  has  cooked  enough  remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  let  the  sauce  cool  in  it,  then  bottle  it  and  cork  the  bottles  tight. 

Worcestershire   Sauce. 

Dissolve  three  ounces  of  sugar  in  one  pint  of  vinegar  over  the  fire,  then  take  it 
off  and  mix  in  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  Indian  soy  and  walnut  catsup,  one-half 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  one  nutmeg  cut  in  thin 
slices,  twelve  cloves,  one-half  tablespoonful  of  ground  ginger,  three  or  four  cloves  of 
garlic  and  a  small  piece  of  lemon  peel.  Turn  all  the  ingredients  into  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle  and  let  it  stand  for  a  month,  shaking  it  well  every  day.  Strain  off  the  sauce 
into  smaller  bottles  and  keep  them  tightly  corked  till  required. 

French   Spice. 

Mix  together  one-half  ounce  of  thyme  and  bay-leaves,  and  one-fourth  ounce  each 
of  marjoram  and  rosemary ;  place  the  herbs  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  in  a  slow  oven. 
When  very  dry  put  the  herbs  in  a  mortar  with  one  ounce  of  nutmeg  and  one  ounce  of 
cloves,  one-half  ounce  of  peppercorns,  and  one-fourth  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper;  and 
pound  all  until  very  fine,  then  sift  it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve.  Put  the  spice  into 
bottles,  cork  well,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  store-cupboard  for  use. 

French   Sausage   Spice. 

Mix  together  in  a  mortar  five  pounds  of  ground  black  pepper,  two  and  one-half 
pounds  of  ground  ginger,  one  pound  each  of  ground  nutmegs  and  cloves  and  one-half 
pound  each  of  ground  anise-seed  and  coriander-seeds.  Preserve  in  a  well-corked 
bottle. 

Kitchen  Spice. 

Mix  together  two  pounds  of  ground  black,  pepper,  one  pound  of  ground  ginger, 
four  ounces  each  of  ground  allspice,  nutmegs  and  cinnamon,  one-half  ounce  of  ground 
cloves  and  three  pounds  of  salt.  This  is  very  nice  for  seasoning  sauces,  soups  and 
gravies,  and  should  be  preserved  in  a  tightly-corked  bottle. 


87o  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

Mixed  Spice. 

Pound  two  ounces  each  of  allspice,  cloves  and  cinnamon,  one-half  ounce  each  of 
ginger  and  nutmeg  and  two  ounces  of  coriander-seeds.  When  well  powdered  they 
must  be  kept  in  a  tightly-corked  bottle. 

Savory   Spice. 

Mix  together  equal  parts  of  cloves,  mace,  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  all  finely 
ground  beforehand.  Put  in  a  well  corked  bottle. 

Spiced    Tomatoes. 

For  two  pounds  of  ripe  tomatoes  allow  one  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one-half  pint 
of  cider  vinegar  and  one-fourth  of  an  ounce  each  of  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Put  all 
these  ingredients  into  a  pan  and  allow  them  to  simmer  slowly  at  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  tomatoes  are  cooked.  When  ready  take  the  tomatoes  out  and  put  them  on 
a  dish,  leaving  the  syrup  to  go  on  simmering.  When  the  tomatoes  are  quite  cold 
return  them  to  the  syrup  and  boil  gently  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Afterwards  put 
them  in  jars,  allow  the  syrup  to  keep  on  boiling  until  well  reduced,  then  move  it  from 
the  fire  and  let  it  get  cold.  Pour  the  cold  syrup  over  the  tomatoes,  cover  the  jars 
with  parchment,  tie  them  down  tightly  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  store-cupboard. 

Tomato    Paste. 

Secure  some  ripe  tomatoes,  cut  them  into  quarters  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  or  three  cloves  of  garlic,  a  handful  of  basil  and  a  lump  of  salt;  pour  in  just 
enough  water  to  keep  them  from  burning,  and  stew  gently.  When  cooked  turn  the 
tomatoes  onto  a  fine  hair-sieve,  leave  them  until  all  the  water  has  run  from  them, 
then  pass  their  pulp  through  the  sieve  into  a  lined  saucepan.  Season  the  pulp  to 
taste  with  pepper  and  boil  it  until  reduced  to  a  thick  paste.  It  must  be  stirred  con- 
stantly with  a  wooden  spoon.  When  ready  turn  the  paste  into  small  jars,  allow  it  to 
cool,  then  tie  them  over  with  heavy  paper  and  put  them  away  for  future  use.  This 
paste  makes  a  very  good  sauce,  and  in  Italy,  where  it  is  used  much,  it  is  called 
conserva. 

Celery   Vinegar. 

Pour  over  one  ounce  of  celery-seeds  one  quart  of  the  best  vinegar,  having  the 
celery-seeds  dried  and  pounded,  and  let  them  steep  in  it  for  ten  days,  shaking  it 
every  day;  then  strain  and  pour  into  small  bottles.  It  is  very  good  for  flavoring. 


PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS.  871 

Fine  Herbs  Vinegar. 

Take  equal  quantities  of  tarragon,  burnet,  chervil  and  cress,  all  of  which 
should  have  been  gathered  the  day  before.  Fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  or  jar  with 
this,  adding  also  two  cloves  of  garlic  and  a  green  pepper.  Cover  the  whole  with 
vinegar,  cork  the  bottle  tightly,  and  place  it  in  a  warm  temperature  for  a  fortnight. 
Strain  the  vinegar  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  pressing  the  herbs  well.  Then  filter 
through  paper  until  quite  clear.  Pour  into  bottles  and  keep  tightly  corked. 

Garlic  Vinegar. 

Peel  and  chop  three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  garlic,  pound  three  cloves  and  grate 
half  a  nutmeg;  put  them  all  into  a  bottle,  pour  over  a  pint  of  vinegar,  cork  the  bot- 
tle, shake  it  every  day  for  a  week,  strain  and  put  into  small  bottles,  and  cork  securely. 

Horseradish  Vinegar. 

Put  three  ounces  of  finely-chopped  horseradish  into  a  jar  or  a  bottle,  add  one 
drachm  of  cayenne,  one  ounce  of  bruised  onions,  a  small  quantity  of  black  pepper  and 
celery-seeds,  pour  over  one  quart  of  vinegar,  let  remain  for  fourteen  days,  then  filter 
off  all  the  liquor,  put  it  in  bottles,  cork  them  down,  and  the  vinegar  is  ready  for  use. 
This  can  be  employed  to  advantage  in  mixing  mustard,  or  as  a  relish  for  cold  meats, 
salads,  etc. 

Tarragon    Vinegar. 

Gather  the  shoots  of  tender  tarragon  the  day  before  they  are  wanted.  Put  into 
a  gallon  jar  as  many  as  they  will  hold  without  pressing  them  down,  add  the  thinly- 
pared  rind  of  two  lemons,  also  half  a  dozen  cloves,  fill  the  jar  with  white  wine  vine- 
gar, cork  it  tightly,  and  allow  it  to  stand  in  the  sun  for  two  or  three  weeks.  Strain 
the  vinegar  through  a  cloth,  squeezing  the  tarragon  leaves  well,  and  wringing  them  in 
the  cloth,  filter  it  through  paper,  and  then  bottle  it. 

Tomato  Vinegar. 

Cut  three  dozen  large,  ripe  tomatoes  into  quarters,  but  do  not  separate  them;  rub 
one-half  pound  of  salt  over,  put  them  into  a  large  jar,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  oven,  or  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  day  or  two.  Then  put  in  one-half  pint  of  mustard  seed,  a 
sliced  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  little  each  of  cloves,  mace  and  grated  nutmeg.  Pour 
over  them  two  quarts  of  boiling  vinegar,  tie  a  piece  of  parchment  or  bladder  over  the 
jar,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  place  for  six  days,  shaking  it  well  every  day  Afterwards 
place  the  jar  in  a  dry  store-cupboard  for  two  or  three  weeks;  then  strain  the  liquor, 
and  when  clear  put  it  into  small  bottles  and  keep  them  tightly  corked. 


872  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 

Walnut  Vinegar. 

Prepare  some  brine  sufficiently  strong  to  float  an  egg,  then  put  some  green  wal- 
nut shells  in  it,  and  allow  them  to  soak  for  fourteen  days.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
drain  the  shells,  and  leave  them  in  the  sun  for  nine  days.  Place  the  shells  in  a  large 
stone  jar,  cover  them  well  with  boiling  vinegar,  and  leave  them  for  a  week.  Drain 
the  vinegar  off  the  shells,  boil  it  up  again,  and  pour  it  over  the  shells.  Keep  the  jar 
closely  covered  until  ready  to  use  the  vinegar. 


Cheese  and   Fruits. 

Brie   Cheese. 

This  is  a  large,  flat,  soft,  round  cheese,  from  three-fourths  of  an  inch  to  one  inch 
thick,  and  ten  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  made  in  the  district  of  Brie,  about  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Paris.  It  is  the  most  popular  Parisian  cheese,  many  millions  being 
sold  in  that  city  every  year.  Brie  is  made  from  new  milk,  though  a  cheese  termed 
"  faxjon  Brie"  is  made  from  partially  skimmed  milk.  When  sufficiently  firm  to  be  re- 
moved from  the  mould  the  cheese  is  placed  in  a  separate  apartment  until,  after  turn- 
ing daily,  it  is  covered  with  a  white  mould;  it  then  is  placed  in  another  apartment  to 
take  the  blue  and  red  mould — the  latter,  however,  which  improves  the  flavor,  is  not  to 
be  had  in  all  dairies.  One  gallon  of  rich  milk  makes  a  large  cheese.  Brie  is  ready 
to  eat  in  about  six  weeks. 

Camembert    Cheese. 

Next  to  Brie,  this  is  the  most  popular  French  cheese.  It  is  small  and  round, 
and  weighs  about  eleven  ounces,  and  is  covered  with  blue  mould  on  the  top  of  a  white 
one.  Camembert  is  chiefly  made  in  the  Calvados,  in  Normandy,  which  is  the  center 
of  a  large  and  important  industry.  The  milk  is  placed  warm  in  wooden  tubs  pro- 
vided with  lids,  brought  to  a  curd  in  two  and  one-half  hours,  removed  by  the  help  of 
large  ladles  into  the  metal  moulds,  about  five  inches  high  by  four  inches  in  diameter, 
and  turned  in  from  six  to  eight  hours,  then  turned  again  the  following  day,  and  finally 
removed,  the  curd  being  meanwhile  upon  straw  or  rush  mats.  When  firm  enough  the 
cheeses  are  salted  in  the  hand,  turned  daily  on  shelves  until  covered  with  white  mold, 
removed  to  another  apartment  to  take  the  blue  mold,  where  they  are  ripened  and 
ready  for  use  in  from  five  to  six  weeks.  Temperature  and  humidity,  as  effecting  the 
growth  of  the  fungi,  are  all  important  in  the  manufacture  of  this  cheese. 

\ 

Cheddar   Cheese 

Is  one  of  the  very  finest  of  cheeses.  It  is  pale  in  color,  mellow,  and  when  good 
resembles  a  hazelnut  in  flavor.  The  cheddar  principle  pervades  the  entire  cheese- 
making  districts  of  America,  Canada  and  New  Zealand,  but  no  cheese  imported  by 
us  can  equal  the  cheddars  of  Somerset  and  the  West  of  Scotland.  Cheddar  cheeses 
are  made  from  100  to  150  pounds  in  weight,  but  the  Wilts  loaf  and  the  West 
Gloucester  cheeses  of  England  are  made  upon  a  principle  closely  resembling  the 

873 


874  CHEESE  AND  FRUITS. 

cheddar.  The  curd  is  brought  in  an  hour  at  from  eighty  to  eighty-five  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, broken  down,  gently  heated  by  the  addition  of  hot  whey  until  the  curd  has 
become  firm  and  shotty.  The  whey  is  then  removed,  the  curd  pressed,  cut  up,  piled, 
aired  to  induce  the  formation  of  acid,  again  cut,  salted,  ground  and  vatted.  It  is 
then  pressed  and  finally  removed  to  the  curing-room,  where  it  remains  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  from  sixty-five  to  seventy  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  is  regularly  turned  until  it 
is  ripe. 

Cottage   Cheese. 

Pour  some  boiling  water  into  a  pan  of  clotted  sour  milk.  Stir,  turn  it  into  a 
colander,  pour  a  little  cold  water  over  it,  salt  and  break  it  up.  A  richer  way  is  to 
put  equal  parts  of  buttermilk  and  thick  milk  into  a  kettle  together  over  the  fire,  heat 
it  until  nearly  ready  to  boil,  pour  into  a  linen  bag  and  let  it  drain  until  the  next  day. 
Then  remove,  salt  and  put  in  a  little  cream  or  butter,  according  to  whether  it  is  thick 
or  not,  and  make  up  into  balls  the  size  of  an  orange. 

Cream   Cheeses. 

Are  made  from  new  milk,  milk  and  cream  mixed  in  varying  proportions,  and  even 
"strippings,"  the  last  of  the  milk  drawn  from  the  cow  at  each  milking,  and  less 
creamy  than  the  first;  but  the  genuine  cream  cheese,  made  from  pure  cream,  cannot 
be  compared  to  these  weaker  substitutes. 

Dutch   Cream   Cheese. 

Put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  into  a  basin  with  three  whole  eggs  and  beat  well,  then 
mix  with  them  one  pint  of  buttermilk.  Take  three  quarts  of  milk  fresh  from  the 
cow,  pour  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  place  it  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  mix  in  the 
above  mixture.  Boil  up  once,  remove  from  the  fire,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  until  the 
curd  has  formed.  Turn  the  curd  into  a  fine  hair-sieve,  put  a  weight  on  top,  and  leave 
it  thus  for  twenty-four  hours.  Serve  the  cheese  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Gorgonzola   Cheese. 

For  one  reason  or  another  this  excellent  cheese  was  a  long  time  in  finding  its  way 
from  the  north  of  Italy  to  England,  although,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  it  is  considered  by 
many  epicures  as  superior  to  the  famous  Stilton  cheese.  In  some  particulars  it 
resembles  Stilton,  but  not  in  shape,  being  flat  and  broad.  When  cut,  it  represents,  if 
it  is  ripe,  a  yellow  color,  with  rich  green  veins.  Unfortunately,  the  large  existing 
demand  for  it  has  led  to  the  substitution  of  weak,  gummy,  altogether  inferior  makes. 
Gorgonzola  should  be  firm  and  creamy,  with  the  two  flat  surfaces  as  nearly  level  as 
possible;  those  of  inferior  quality  sink  in  the  center,  and  are  of  weak  substance. 


CHEESE  AND  FRUITS.  875 

Gruyere    Cheese. 

This  is  a  very  large  round,  flat,  thick  cheese,  and  cuts  firm,  with  large  holes,  or 
"  vesicles  "  as  they  are  called,  containing  at  times  a  little  moisture.  The  odor  of 
Gruyere  is  very  peculiar,  but  the  nutty  flavor  of  a  good  sample  is  only  equalled  by 
Cheddar.  The  best  qualities  are  imported  from  Fribourg.  The  process  employed  in 
making  Gruyere  is  unique,  but  there  are  two  qualities,  the  better  being  called  Em- 
menthaler,  the  difference  being  in  the  quality  of  the  milk. 

Neufchatel  Cheese. 

Of  all  the  foreign-made  salted  milk  cheeses  that  reach  our  shores,  this  favorite  is 
the  smallest.  The  cheese  known  as  Bondon  is  a  species  of  Neufchatel,  but  it  is 
usually  so  exceedingly  salt  and  dry  to  the  taste  that  it  is  not  a  favorite.  The 
ordinary  Neufchatel  is  imported  direct  from  the  Department  of  Seine-et-Oise,  in 
France,  is  very  rich  and  well  flavored,  weighing  from  five  to  six  ounces  each,  the 
best  samples  being  blue  veined. 

Parmesan    Cheese. 

As  the  name  indicates,  this  cheese  is  a  native  manufacture  of  Parma  in  northern 
Italy.  It  possesses  such  a  sweet  taste  that  it  is  everywhere  employed  by  cooks  for 
culinary  purposes,  especially  when  grated.  The  milk  from  which  this  cheese  is 
made  is  drawn  from  cows  which  are  kept  in  sheds  the  year  around  and  fed  in  summer 
on  cut  grass  and  in  winter  on  fine  hay.  The  cream  skimmed  from  the  milk  is  used 
for  butter,  or  the  making  of  cream  cheese,  so  that  Parmesan  is  not  of  a  very  buttery 
character,  and  the  rennet  is  added  to  the  skimmed  milk  at  a  temperature  of  from 
eighty-six  to  eighty-nine  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  the  whole  is  then  placed  over  a 
slow  fire  and  the  temperature  raised  to  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees,  the 
curd  separating  meanwhile  into  small  lumps.  Saffron  is  occasionally  added  to  the 
milk  before  heating,  which  gives  it  a  yellowish  green  hue,  and  the  curd  is  then  put 
under  pressure.  These  cheeses  are  of  mammoth  size,  shaped  in  large  flat  hoops,  the 
edges  are  then  rounded,  the  weight  being  in  the  neighborhood  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty  pounds.  They  are  of  a  dark,  almost  black  color  on  the  outside,  which  is 
brought  about  by  dressing  with  coloring  and  rubbing  with  linseed  oil  until  a  good 
surface  is  procured.  Parmesan  cheese  takes  about  three  years  to  ripen,  and  as  its  size 
requires  a  considerable  time  in  its  consumption,  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  cut- 
surfaces  with  paper  steeped  in  sweet  oil. 

Pont-l'Ev6que   Cheese. 

This  is  a  milk  cheese  named  after  the  place  where  it  is  manufactured.  It  is  con- 
sidered inferior  to  Brie  cheese,  but  it  has  a  very  good  local  reputation  and  deserves 
to  be  better  known. 


876  CHEESE  AND  FRUITS. 

Port   du   Salut   Cheese. 

This  great  favorite  should  be  better  known  in  this  country.  Its  flavor  is  very 
palatable  and  mild,  the  substance  pasty  and  soft  and  it  possesses  all  the  qualities  of 
the  best  cheeses.  It  is  shaped  into  round  cakes,  weighing  from  five  to  eight  pounds 
each,  and  they  are  stamped  with  the  name  of  the  place  of  their  manufacture. 

Pot    Cheese. 

Place  one  quart  of  buttermilk  and  two  quarts  of  sour  milk  in  a  saucepan,  and 
set  it  over  the  fire  till  it  is  scalding  hot;  then  take  it  off  and  with  a  skimmer  remove 
the  curd  from  the  whey.  Place  the  curd  in  a  muslin  bag,  tie  and  hang  it  up  to  drain 
for  an  hour  or  so.  Moisten  the  curd  slightly  with  cream,  stir  in  a  little  salt,  work  it 
well  with  the  hands,  then  mould  it  into  small  balls.  Pile  these  on  a  dish,  cover  them 
over,  and  set  in  a  cool  place  till  ready  to  serve. 

Potted   Cheese. 

Cut  about  a  pound  of  Cheshire  cheese  into  dice,  and  put  these  in  a  mortar  with 
six  ounces  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-powdered  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  mace;  then  pour  over  four  or  five  wineglassfuls  of  sherry,  and  after  it  has  stood  for 
two  or  three  minutes  to  soak,  pound  all  well  together.  Work  it  into  a  smooth  paste, 
and  place  it  in  jars,  putting  clarified  butter  over  the  top. 

Pounded   Cheese. 

Chop  about  one  pound  of  good  dry  cheese,  place  it  in  a  mortar  with  three  or 
four  ounces  of  butter,  and  pound  to  a  smooth  paste.  Mix  with  it  one  teaspoonful 
each  of  made  mustard,  ground  spice  and  curry  powder,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of- 
black  pepper.  Stir  one  wineglassful  of  sherry  into  the  mixture.  Next  cut  some 
slices  of  bread  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  cutting  each  slice  into  halves 
lengthwise;  spread  the  cheese  mixture  over  them,  and  sprinkle  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
per over  each.  Arrange  them  on  a  dish  over  which  has  been  an  ornamental  paper, 
or  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve.  The  cheese  mixture  can  be  kept  in  a  cool  place  for 
several  days,  if  pressed  down  into  jars  and  covered  with  paper. 


Roquefort   Cheese. 


This  cheese  is  peculiar  from  the  fact  that  it  is  made  of  ewe's  milk,  though  some 
manufacturers  are  now  using  the  milk  of  the  cow.  Naturally  therefore  it  possesses  a 
peculiar  pungency  and  flavor,  though  in  other  particulars  it  somewhat  resembles  other 
veined  cheeses.  Upon  the  continent  Roquefort  takes  precedence  of  many  other  makes, 


CHEESE  AND  FRUITS.  877 

whether  foreign  or  native;  but  in  this  country  it  is  not  so  generally  liked.  It  should 
not  be  cut  until  it  is  well  advanced  in  the  process  of  decay,  and  then  its  excellence  can 
not  be  gainsayed.  The  mould  is  procured  by  the  introduction  of  mouldy  bread- 
crumbs, and  by  pricking  to  admit  the  air. 

Sage  or  Green  Cheese. 

This  is  a  variety  of  cream  cheese  made  by  adding  sage  leaves  and  greening  to 
the  milk.  The  following  is  a  very  good  recipe:  Pound  the  tops  of  fresh  young  sage 
leaves  with  an  equal  quantity  of  spinach  leaves,  and  squeeze  out  the  juice.  Add  this 
to  the  extract  of  rennet,  and  stir  into  the  milk  a  sufficient  quantity  to  suit  the  taste. 
When  the  curd  comes,  break,  salt  it,  fill  the  vat  high  with  it,  press  for  a  few  hours, 
and  then  turn  the  cheese  every  day. 

Stilton  Cheese. 

This  is  the  king  of  English  cheeses,  and,  therefore,  as  it  commands  a  large  price, 
subject  to  worthless  imitations.  Although  Stilton  takes  its  name  from  a  town  of  that 
name  in  Huntingdon,  it  is  chiefly  manufactured  near  Melton  Mowbray,  in  other  parts 
of  Leicestershire,  and  in  Nottinghamshire.  It  is  made  in  the  shape  of  a  cylinder, 
twice  as  long  as  broad,  weighing  about  twelve  pounds,  and  having  a  very  rough, 
irregular  whitish  rind.  When  it  is  cut,  the  substance  should  be  white,  friable,  yet 
mellow,  and  marked  with  greenish  blue  veins.  According  to  the  prevalence  of  these, 
the  cheese  will  be  judged;  but  as  Stilton  takes  from  three  to  six  months  to  ripen, 
many  experiments  have  been  tried  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  age,  though  the  cheese 
itself  may  be  young.  Rich  new  milk,  to  which  a  proportion  of  cream  is  added,  the 
quality  varying  in  proportion  to  the  skill  used  in  its  manufacture.  The  milk  is  set  at 
ninety  degrees  Fahrenheit,  the  curd  is  broken  down  in  about  an  hour,  and  removed 
into  large  strainer  cloths,  from  which  the  whey  gradually  escapes.  As  the  curd  be- 
comes firm,  it  is  broken  up  and  aired  until  it  is  sufficiently  acid  for  salting  and  placing 
in  vats.  The  vats,  hoops  or  moulds,  are  filled  by  hand,  and  turned  regularly  until 
the  cheese  can  be  removed,  and  it  is  then  covered  with  a  clean  binder  every  day  until 
the  crust  commences  to  form,  when  it  goes  into  the  curing-room,  and  there  it  ripens 
better  when  the  temperature  is  well  maintained  at  from  fifty-three  to  fifty-five  degrees. 

"Strohl"  Cheese. 

Rub  together  six  ounces  of  butter  and  six  ounces  of  flour,  and  add  six  ounces  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne,  and  after  this  is  well  mixed, 
add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  one  tablespoonful  of  raw  cream,  working  all  together 
well.  Roll  the  paste  out  thin,  divide  it  into  strips  about  five  inches  long,  put  these 
on  a  baking-sheet,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven.  When  they  are  done,  put  them  on  a 
dish  with  a  folded  napkin  on  it,  and  serve. 


878  CHEESE  AND  FRUITS. 

Almonds  and  Raisins  for  Dessert. 

The  finest  quality  of  Valencia  raisins,  in  good  bunches,  with  a  purple  bloom  on 
the  fruit,  are  requisite  for  this  purpose.  Pile  up  the  bunches  on  the  dish  in  the  form 
of  a  pyramid  upon  a  lace-pattern  dessert  paper,  and  strew  well-blanched  almonds  over 
and  between  the  bunches. 

Salted   and    " Deviled"   Almonds. 

Blanch  and  dry  in  a  cloth  as  many  Jordan  almonds  as  may  be  required,  put  them 
into  a  fryingpan  with  a  little  butter  and  fry  them  until  they  are  of  a  delicate  fawn 
color.  Then  pour  them  into  a  colander  and  sprinkle  them  over  immediately  with 
fine  table  salt,  tossing  them  as  they  are  sprinkled.  Serve  hot  or  cold  in  little  trays 
with  cheese.  To  devil  them,  mix  with  the  salt  twice  the  quantity  of  cayenne  pepper 
and  sprinkle  as  before. 

Boiled    Chestnuts. 

Wash  thoroughly  two  or  three  pounds  of  chestnuts,  make  two  cuts  through  the 
stem  end  of  the  shells,  crossing  each  other  so  that  the  shells  can  be  easily  stripped 
off;  tie  the  nuts  in  a  napkin  and  boil  in  salted  water  until  tender.  Take  them  up, 
turn  them  into  a  fresh  napkin  laid  in  a  salad-bowl  and  serve  hot  with  fresh  butter  and 
salt.  Claret  wine  should  go  with  them. 

Roasted  Chestnuts. 

Split  the  skin  on  one  side  of  some  chestnuts,  put  in  a  pan  with  a  perforated 
bottom,  stand  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  they  are  done  wrap  them  in  a  cloth  for 
a  few  minutes.  Serve  them  with  salt  and  butter. 

Oranges    for    Dessert. 

Peel  the  oranges  and  trim  off  the  white  part,  being  very  careful  not  to  break  the 
fruit.  Put  some  powdered  sugar  in  a  dish,  about  one-half  pound  for  two  dozen 
oranges,  and  pour  over  it  sufficient  cochineal  to  give  it  a  bright  pink  color;  place  it 
in  front  of  a  fire  until  well  dried.  Roll  the  oranges  in  the  sugar,  giving  them  a  good 
coating  all  over,  then  arrange  them  carefully  in  a  raised  glass  or  dessert  dish  and 
serve.  Oranges  colored  in  this  way  are  a  great  improvement  over  the  ordinary  way 
of  serving  them. 

Oranges   and  Bananas  for  Dessert. 

Peel  four  bananas  (the  red  kind  if  possible),  cut  them  across  into  rather  thin 
slices  and  arrange  them  in  a  glass  dish;  strain  the  juice  from  two  oranges,  pour  it 


CHEESE  AND  FRUITS.  879 

over  the  bananas,  sprinkle  them  plentifully  with  powdered  sugar  and  serve  imme- 
diately. Or  peel  the  oranges,  slice  them  and  arrange  the  slices  in  the  dish  among 
the  slices  of  bananas.  Cream,  either  whipped  or  plain,  may  be  served  with  this  dish, 
also  sugar. 

Peaches  for  Dessert. 

Wipe  the  peaches  carefully  and  lightly  over  with  a  clean  cloth;  put  a  circle  of 
them  on  a  dish,  then  over  these  a  narrower  circle,  and  so  on,  finishing  off  with  one  at 
the  top  and  using  peach  leaves  and  moss  to  garnish  and  build  them  with.  Put  a 
circle  of  the  moss  and  leaves  round  the  base  of  the  peaches.  Vine  or  artificial  peach 
leaves  may  be  used  if  the  genuine  ones  cannot  be  obtained. 


Pineapple  for  Dessert. 


Prepare  a  thick  cushion  of  paper,  called  tampion,  in  a  fancy  dish,  cover  it  well 
with  dyed  moss  and  real  or  artificial  vine  leaves,  stick  the  stalk  of  the  pine  in  the 
middle  of  the  paper  and  garnish  around  with  any  other  fruit  desired. 


Walnuts  Prepared  for  Dessert. 


Crack  the  upper  half  of  the  shells  of  the  required  quantity  of  walnuts,  and  re- 
move them  carefully  without  damaging  the  kernel.  Dip  the  exposed  half  of  the  nut 
into  boiling  water  to  facilitate  peeling  off  the  skin.  Place  each  nut,  as  soon  as  peeled, 
in  slightly  acid  water,  which  should  also  be  cold  and  salted.  When  ready  to  serve, 
drain  the  nuts  on  a  cloth.  For  dishing  the  nuts  a  pasteboard  stand  should  be  made 
with  raised  graduated  tiers,  and  covered  with  green  paper.  Arrange  the  walnuts  on 
this,  using  some  moss  to  keep  the  nuts  in  position. 

Watermelon  with  Brandy. 

Cut  out  and  remove  a  piece  of  the  center  of  a  watermelon;  and  pour  in  the  side 
one  pint  of  brandy;  replace  the  piece  of  melon  in  its  former  position  and  put  the 
melon  on  the  ice-box  for  six  hours.  Set  it  on  a  dish  and  send  to  the  table  either 
whole  or  cut  in  slices. 

Watermelon  with  Champagne. 

Proceed  as  with  brandy,  using  champagne  instead  of  brandy, 

Watermelon  with  Rum. 

Prepare  the  same  as  watermelon  with,  brandy,  using  rum  instead  of  brandy,  and 
proceed  as  before. 


Index. 


Preface.  PAGE. 
A  few  suggestions  with  regard  to  the  kitchen.  i 
Menus,  or  Bills  of  Fare v-vi 


Seasons. 

Seasons  for  fish vii-  ix 

"        for  poultry,  game  and  meats ix-  xi 

"        for  vegetables  and  fruits xi-xir 

"       market  list..  xr 


Bakery  and  Breakfast  Dishes. 

Biscuits,  butter 

'  buttermilk 

1  for  coffee 

'  honey 

'  lemon 

<  milk 

'  oatmeal 

'  tea 


wine 

Bread,  American 

"      American  brown. 
"      Boston  brown.. 


corn 

"      dyspepsia 

"  egg 

"  gluten 

"  graham  flour 

"  household 

"  made  with  potatoes. 

"  oatmeal 

"  pulled 

Brioche.. 


rings 

Buns 

"     hot  cross 

"     light  tea 

Crackers,  cornmeal 

"  graham   flour.. 

"  lemon-flavored 

"  soda 

Cracklings,  almond 

Cracknels,   Philadelphia  . 

Crumpets 

"         flannel 

Gems,  gluten 

"      wheatmeal 

Muffins. 

"        French  style 

"        rice  ._ 


rye 

"       toasted  

Rolls,  American 

"   butter  for  tea. 


795 
795 
796 
796 
796 
796 
796 
797 
797 
797 
797 
798 
798 
798 
798 
799 
799 
799 


PAGE. 

Rolls,  French  ................. ..... 799 

"      milk . 800 

"      tea  or  breakfast 800 

"      Vienna 800 

"      oatmeal  wafers 800 

Wafers,  graham  flour 800 

Zweibach. 801 

Breakfast  Dishes. 

Cakes,   breakfast 801 

"        buckwheat 801 

"        coffee 801 

"        cornmeal   butter 862 

"         flannel 802 

"         griddle 802 

"         oatmeal  small 802 

Gruel,  oatmeal 802 

"        wheatflour 802 

Mush,  cracked  wheat,  American 803 

"        graham  flour 803 

"        oatmeal 803 

Porridge,  cracked  wheat 803 

"          milk 804 

"          rice 804 

Toasts,  cream 804 

"         egg 804 

"         milk... 804 

"         French .__  805 

Beverages. 

Chocolate 806 

Cocoa 806 

Coffee,  black 806 

"        breakfast 806 

"       iced 807 

"       Mazagrau 807 

"       roasting 807 

"        with  whipped  cream 807 

Tea,  how  made 807 

"    iced. 807 

"    Russian 808 

Beef. 

Beef,  a  la  Mode - 142 

"     boiled 142 

'"      braised ' 142 

"           "        a  la  Mode 143 

"           "         Providence 143 

"          "        rib... 143 

"      Chateaubriand 143 

"      corned,  American  style 144 

"           "          boiled  and  spinach 144 

"           "          hashed 144 

"      croquettes 144 

"      cutlets ---  145 


88 1 


882 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Beef,  fricadelles 145 

"      fricandeau 145 

"      grenadins 145 

"      hashed 146 

"      heart  (bullock's) -.. 146 

»           "            "           roasted 146 

"          "            "          stewed 146 

khulash 147 

kidneys 147 

"        fried _ 147 

"            "     with  Champagne 147 

"         rissoles 147 

"         stewed 148 

liver  and  rice,  boiled 148 

Macedoine 148 

marrow 148 

"        bones 148 

"         fritters 149 

minced 149 

"         Spanish  style 149 

Neapolitan 149 

oxtails,  boiled 150 

braised  with  chestnut  pure"e 150 

broiled 150 

stewed 151 

pa  ates,  blanquette  with  truffles 151 

croquettes 151 

curried 151 

fricassee  with  truffles 152 

'        paupiettes 152 

pot-pie 152 

pie,  steak  with  oysters 152 

pudding  and  kidneys 153 

rissolettes 153 

roast,  American  style 153 

"      on  the  spit 153 

"      ribs - 153 

smoked 154 

"          with  cream 154 

smothered 154 

spiced 15-4 

steak,  fried  American  style 154 

'        Hamburg 155 

'               "         fried  with  Russian  sauce  155 

1        loin,  broiled _._  155 

'        minced,  fried 155 

'        porterhouse,  double,  broiled 155 

'        rib,  broiled 155 

'        sirloin  broiled 156 

'        with  anchovy  butter 156 

stewed  .    156 

tenderloin 156 

"          braised  and  larded 156 

"           broiled 157 

"                 "      cheron 157 

"           Florentin \ 157 

"           larded . 157 

"           minions,   Lorillard 157 

"                 "           Pompadour , 158 

"                 "           sauted,  Bearnaise  ..  158 

noisettes,   plain 158 

"           Rossini 159 

"  with    p  u  r  €  e    of 

mushrooms 159 

stewed  with  oysters 159 

tournedos,  New  York  style...  159 

"            plain 159 


PAGE. 

Beef  tongues,  boiled . 160 

"                          "      with  chestnuts 160 

41                      braised 160 

"                      broiled  in  cases  (slices) 161 

financiere 161 

gourmet's  style 161 

minced 161 

scalloped 162 

stewed 162 

terrapin  style 162 

Tripe 162 

a  la  mode  de  Caen 163 

and   onions. 163 

baked  with  potatoes 163 

Bordelaise 164 

broiled 164 

"       with  tartar  sauce 164 

Creole  style 164 

curried 164 

fricassee 165 

Lyonnese ..  165 

poulette  style _.  165 

stewed 165 

"     Vinaigrette 166 

"     Vol-au-vent  of  tendons 166 

Cheese  and  Fruits. 

Cheese,  Brie 873 

Camembert 873 

Cheddar 873 

cottage 874 

cream 874 

cream  (Dutch) 874 

Gorgonzola 874 

Gruyere 875 

Neufchatel 875 

Parmesan 875 

Pont  1'Eveque 875 

Port  du  Salut 876 

pot 876 

potted 876 

pounded 876 

Roquefort 876 

sage  or  green 877 

Stilton 877 

Strohl 877 

Fruits  for  Desserts. 

Almonds  and  raisins 878 

"          salted  and  deviled 878 

Chestnuts,  boiled 878 

"             roasted 878 

Oranges 878 

"        and  bananas 878 

Peaches 879 

Pineapple 879 

Walnuts 879 

Watermelon  with  brandy 879 

"             with  champagne 879 

"             with  rum 879 

Cold  Service. 

Aspic  of  beef  tenderloin 384 

"             "      tongue  in  jelly 384 

"           cravfish  with  salad 384 


INDEX. 


883 


PAGE. 

Aspic  of  chicken  cutlets  .. ..  385 

'                "         fillets  with  jelly 385 

'          game  in  jelly 386 

'           goose 386 

'           goose  fat  livers 387 

'           ham,  boiled,  cold 387 

1           lamb  cutlets ...__._ 387 

'           lobster 388 

'           oysters 388 

'           partridges 388 

'           pigeons 389 

pike 389 

prawns 390 

'           quails,  empress 390 

'           salmon 390 

'           sole  fillets  -_. 391 

'           trout _._ 391 

Ba  lotines  of  partridges 3QI 

Boned  (galantine)  chicken  with  jelly 392 

'                              ducks,  stuffed 392 

'                           eels 393 

grouse 393 

partridges... 393 

'                            pheasant 394 

'                            plovers 394 

1                            quails 394 

'                            snipes 395 

'                            turkey,  American  style 395 

Chaudfroid  of  chicken : 396 

goose,  fat  liver  cutlets 396 

lark  galantines 396 

partridges  with  truffles 397 

pheasants 397 

pigeons -  397 

plovers 398 

quails 398 

salmon 398 

snipes 399 

turkey .. 400 

woodcock 400 

Cutlets  of  partridge 400 

Head  Cheese,  calf's . 401 

pig's , 401 

"         veal,  jellied 401 

Je  ly,  chicken  in 401 

of  pig's  feet  and  ears 402 

"      "      head  in  jelly 402 

"  trout  in  fish  jelly 403 

Mackerel,  cold,  green  Mayonnaise  sauce 403 

Mayonnaise  of  chicken 403 

"                 eels 403 

"                 perch 404 

"                  salmon 404 

"                  salmon  with  aspic  jelly 404 

"                 soles 405 

"                 trout 405 

"                 turbot 405 

"                 turkey  with  aspic  jelly 405 

Pickled  beef  palates 406 

salmon 406 

"      Turkish  style 406 

tongue 406 

Pot  ed  beef 407 

beef   tongue 407 

chicken 407 

crayfish 407 

eels 407 


PAGE. 

Potted  fish 408 

"      game 408 

'«      goose 408 

"       goose  fat  livers 408 

ham 409 

hare. 409 

larks 410 

liver 410 

lobster 410 

mackerel 410 

mushrooms 410 

mutton 411 

partridges 411 

pheasant 411 

pigeons 411 

pig's  head 412 

pork 412 

rabbit 412 

reed  birds < 413 

salmon 413 

shrimps 413 

tongue 413 

trout 413 

turkey 414 

turkey  livers 414 

"       veal 414 

"       venison 415 

Pressed  chicken 415 

Salmon,    Montpelier 415 

Terrine  of  chicken  livers 415 

"          "partridge.. 416 

"          "veal -._ 416 

Tongue,  beef,  cold . 417 

"          calf's  with  Macedoine 417 


Confectionery. 


Boiling  sugar 809 

Bonbons,  chocolate 811 

"          orange-flower  in  cases 811 

Boston   chips 8n 

Candied  fruit  or  nuts Sn 

"        quarters  of  orange 811 

Candy,  American 812 

"         cream 812 

"         nut 1 812 

"         rock 812 

"        peanut 813 

"         vanilla  tablets 813 

"         walnut 813 

Caramels 814 

"         orange 814 

"         Philadelphia 814 

"         raspberry 814 

"         vanilla .  815 

Chestnut  glace  with  caramel 815 

"  "        with  sugar 815 

Drops,  acid 815 

"       cough 816 

"       millefleurs 816 

"       strawberry 816 

"       vanilla 817 

English  rock 817 

Lozenges,  vanilla 817 

Marzipan,  strawberry 817 

Nougat _ 818 

"       baskets 819 


884 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Nougat  honey 820 

"       with  apricots 820 

Pistachio  paste 820 

Pralines,  Brazil-nuts 820 

Sugars,  colored 821 

"        flavored 821 

Sugared  flowers 821 

Desserts,  Cold. 

Bavarois,  almond 653 

"          apple -.. _._  653 

"  chocolate 653 

"  fruit  with  cream 654 

"  strawberry 654 

Blanc-Mange,  chocolate  with  cream 654 

"  citron 655 

"  quince 655 

"  strawberry ...  655 

"  Waldorf  style 656 

Charlotte,  Chantilly  ...I 656 

"  French 656 

"  fruit 657 

"  oranges 657 

"  raspberry 657 

"  russe 658 

"  «<      burnt  almond 658 

"  "      with  coffee 658 

Chartreuse  of  oranges 658 

"  strawberry 659 

Chestnuts,  sugared 659 

Compote  of  apples 659 

"  cherries 660 

"  chestnuts 660 

"  cranberry . 660 

"  currants, red . 660 

"  figs 661 

"  fruits  with  iced  champagne 661 

"  greengages 661 

"  gooseberries,  green 661 

"  grapes 661 

"  hazel-nuts 662 

"  lemons 662 

"  nectarine 662 

"  oranges 662 

"  peaches 662 

peaches  with  rice 663 

"  pears 663 

"  pears,  princess 663 

"  pineapple 664 

"  plums 664 

"  prunes 664 

"  raspberry 664 

"  strawberries 664 

"  walwuts 665 

Cream  almond 665 

"       apple 665 

"       Bavarian 665 

"       brandy 665 

41       caramel 666 

"       Chateaubriand i 666 

"       chestnut 666 

«'       coffee 666 

«'      confectioners' 667 

««      diplomatic 667 

*  flavored  with  cinnamon 667 

*  "  "      coffee 667 


PAGE. 

Cream  flavored  with  lemon 668 

"       flawn 668 

"       floating  islands  of 668 

"       for  fruit  pies 668 

"       ginger 669 

"      gooseberry 669 

"      jelly  with  fruit - 669 

lemon 670 

Neapolitan 670 

noyau 670 

paste  flavored  with  coffee 670 

•'            "            "      lemon 671 

pastry 671 

peach 671 

pineapple 671 

pistachio 672 

plombiere  with  bananas 672 

raspberry 672 

roman 672 

royal 672 

strawberry 673 

"           with  whipped 673 

"           frozen  with  whipped 673 

raspberries  with  whipped 673 

'•       Swiss ! 674 

"       vanilla 674 

"       Versailles 674 

"       whipped 674 

"              "         flavored   with    brandy,  cof- 
fee, etc   675 

"               "         Newport 675 

'•              "         red  currant 675 

"              "        vanilla 675 

"       with  burnt  sugar 676 

"           "    chocolate 676 

•'           "    orange 676 

Crusts,  strawberry 676 

Custard,  arrowroot 677 

baked 677 

chestnut 677 

chocolate-apple 677 

cold 677 

flavored  with  rum 678 

French 678 

in  cups  or  glasses 678 

lemon 678 

macaroon 678 

peach 679 

tapioca —  679 

vanilla,  large  and  small 679 

vanilla  cup 679 

wine 680 

Flawn  of  fruits,  Viennese  style 680 

"         "    strawberry 680 

Fruit  bowl ___ 680 

Fruits  glazed 681 

"      rice 681 

"      salad 6«i 

"      vol-au-vent 68 1 

Iced  raspberries 682 

"     strawberries 682 

Jelly,  anisette  with  pears 682 

"      arrowroot.. 682 

"      brandy 683 

"      calf's  "foot 683 

"      champagne 683 

"                  "          in  glasses 683 


INDEX. 


885 


PAGE. 

Jelly,  cherry 684 

""    claret __  684 

"      constantine 684 

"      crystal 684 

"      Dantzig,  sweet 685 

"      for  cake 685 

"      French,  sweet 685 

"      gelatine 68s 

"      Jamaica 686 

"      Kirsch 686 

"      Kiimmel 686 

"      lemon 686 

"      Madeira 687 

"      Maraschino 687 

"      marbled 687 

"      noyau 688 

"      orange 688 

"      peach 688 

"      pear 688 

"      plain 689 

"      port  wine 689 

"      Princess  Victoria 689 

prune 689 

raspberry 690 

red 690 

rhubarb  border  with  whipped  cream. .  690 

rum , 691 

Russian 691 

stock 691 

St.  Petersburg 691 

strawberry . 692 

tapioca 692 

"      vanilla 692 

"      Venetian 692 

"      with  fruit  champagne 693 

"          "     whipped  cream .  693 

Lemon  froth... 693 

Maraschino   cheese 693 

Meringues . 694 

almond 694 

apple . . 694 

chocolate  - 695 

Florentine 695 

Italian 695 

kisses 695 

lemon 696 

peach 696 

pineapple 696 

shells 696 

strawberry 697 

Orange  baskets 697 

"        butter. 697 

"        salad 698 

Oranges,  French  style 698 

Peaches,  frosted 698 

Pear  salad 698 

"     stuffed 698 

Pies,  apple 699 

"    apple  custard 699 

"     apricot 699 

"    bananacream 699 

"     cherry 700 

"     cocoanut 700 

"        "  custard 700 

"     cranberry 700 

"     cream . 700 

"     currant 701 


Pies,  custard 701 

"     fruit „ 701 

"     gooseberry 701 

"     lemon 701 

"         "       cream 702 

"     mince .   702 

"         "       lemon - 702 

"     peach 703 

"     pumpkin 703 

"     raspberry 703 

"     rhubarb 703 

Pineapple  glace 703 

"          salad 704 

Pistachios,  glazed 704 

Prunes,  Russian  style 704 

Pudding,  Amer jean  black 704 

"         Baden  Baden 705 

"        chestnut  with  fruits  ...    705 

"        chocolate 705 

"                "        with  almonds 705 

"         diplomatic 705 

"        gelatine ..  706 

"         lemon  jelly 706 

"         maraschino 706 

"        meringue 707 

"         peach 707 

"         Princess 707 

"         sponge-cake 708 

Rhubarb  with  meringue 708 

Rice,  boiled  and  cream 708 

"        "         with  apricots 708 

Snow,  lemon 709 

"      orange 709 

Sponge,  lemon 709 

"         peach 710 

"        strawberry 710 

Stewed  apples 710 

"             "      and  rice 711 

"         figs 711 

"        greengages 711 

"        peaches 711 

"              "         conde" 711 

"         pears 712 

"             "     and  rice 712 

"        plums 712 

"        pomegranates 712 

"         prunes 712 

"        quinces.- 713 

"         rhubarb ..  713 

Tarts,  apple  and  custard 713 

"           "       open —  713 

"       cranberry 713 

"       cream 714 

"            "     chocolate 714 

"      currant 714 

"      gooseberry-and-cream 715 

"      jelly 715 

"       lemon 715 

"       meringue 715 

"       peach 715 

"       pear 716 

"       pineapple — 716 

"       plum . 716 

"       raspberry -  716 

"              "         with  cream 716 

"       strawberry 7*7 

Tartlets,  almond 717 


886 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Tartlets,  cherry - 717 

fancy 717 

gooseberry 718 

orange 718 

paganini -._ 718 

peach . 718 

pear 719 

plum 719 

Roman 719 

rhubarb 720 

strawberry ._  720 

vanilla 720 

Walnut  salad 720 

Walnuts   sugared 721 


Desserts,  Hot. 

Apple  float 612 

Apples  fried 612 

"       baked 612 

Apricot  snowballs 612 

Bananas   baked 613 

Charlotte,  apple 613 

"  peach 613 

"  pear 614 

"  pineapple.. 614 

Conde1  apricots 614 

Croquettes,  apple 614 

"  rice 615 

Crusts,  fruit 615 

"      pineapple 615 

Custard  apple 616 

"  "     with  vanilla 616 

Dumplings,  apple,  baked 616 

"       boiled.. . 617 

currant 617 

fruit 617 

lemon 617 

peach,  baked 617 

pear 618 

Eggs,  cheese  cakes 618 

Duchess 618 

snow  with  coffee  cream 618 

Turkish  style . 619 

Flawn  apricot 619 

cherry 619 

peach 619 

pear : 620 

Fritters,  almond  custard 620 

.  "        apple 620 

apricot 621 

banana 621 

bonne  femme 621 

cream 621 

French 622 

lemon 622 

orange, 622 

"       custard 623 

peach 623 

pear 623 

pineapple  -_ 624 

Portuguese 624 

rhubarb 624 

rice 624 

souffle's 625 

strawberry 625 


PAGE 

Fritters,  vanilla 625 

Lemon  patties 626 

Omelets,  apricot 626 

"        celestine 626 

"        jelly 626 

"         kirsch 626 

"        lemon 627 

"         rum 627 

"         souffle 627 

Orange  meringue 628 

"       puffs 628 

Pancakes 628 

"        apple 628 

"         Casino  style '629 

"        currant . 629 

"         gooseberry 629 

"         New  England 629 

"         rice 630 

"         with  apricot  jam 630 

"         with  macaroons 630 

Pears,  baked 630 

Puddings,  Adelaide 631 

"          Albemarle 631 

"         almond 631 

"        and  rice _ 631 

apple  and  almond 632 

"      custard. 632 

apricot 632 

bird's  nest -  632 

biscuit 632 

Bombay -  633 

Boston — -  633 

brandy,  with  brandy  sauce   633 

bread,  baked 633 

"        with  cream  sauce 634 

cabinet    ..  634 

California,  baked 634 

caramel ..  635 

cheese,  baked 635 

cherry   -- 635 

chestnut 635 

Christmas 635 

Clifton 636 

cottage 636 

cream - 636 

cocoa 636 

cornstarch . 637 

custard 637 

•«         cup 637 

egg  snow 637 

flame 637 

fruit 638 

"     with  rum  sauce 638 

German 638 

ginger 638 

gooseberry 639 

imperial 639 

jelly - 639 

lemon 639 

"      souffle 640 

macaroon — 640 

mousseline 640 

Neapolitan -  640 

orange,  baked 641 

pineapple 641 

plum 641 

"     Scotch 642 


INDEX. 


887 


PAGE. 

Puddings,  quince 642 

raspberry 642 

ratafia,  baked 642 

rice,  baked 643 

boiled '____ 643 

and  fruit 643 

and  tapioca 643 

with  apples 643 

with  walnuts 644 

rum 644 

sago,  baked 644 

sherry  sponge 644 

strawberry 645 

tapioca,  custard 645 

vanilla 645 

"      souffle" 646 

Rice  balls,  Italian 646 

"     boiled 646 

44    cake 646 

"     cheese  cakes 646 

"     conde 647 

"    creamed 647 

"     French  style , 647 

"     puffs ' 647 

Souffles , 648 

cheese . 648 

cherry 648 

chestnut , —  648 

chocolate _  649 

coffee 649 

cream 649 

custard. 650 

gooseberry 650 

lemon 650 

orange 650 

pistachio 651 

strawberry 651 

vanilla 651 

Timbale  of  pear  with  raisins 651 

Vol-au-vents,  Chantilly . 652 

"                with  strawberries _  652 


Eggs- 


Eggs,  Andalusian . 572 

'     and  artichokes 572 

'     andcream 572 

'     and  ham 572 

1    and  olives 572 

'     astripe 573 

4    Aurora 573 

'     baked _ 573 

4     Bar-le-duc --  573 

4    boiled — 574 

1     bonne  femme 574 

4     Bourgeoise  style 574 

'     Canada 574 

1     Catherine 574 

'     Columbus 575 

'     Creole  style - ---  575 

4     cromeskies 575 

"     croquettes - 575 

"     curried 575 

44    deviled— _ ..— 576 

44     Easter --  576 

44    fried 576 

4<    fried  for  garnish . 577 


PAGE. 

Eggs,  fried  in  batter 577 

"     fried  in  brown  butter ,  577 

41     fried,  provincial  style 577 

4'     fried  with  bacon__ 577 

"     fried  with  black  butter 578 

41     fritters... 578 

41     hard-boiled  with  Madeira  sauce 578 

41      in  aspic 578 

44       "cases 579 

"       "  cocottes 579 

"  crusts 579 

.'.'Wi —  579 

"  shells 579 

Italian  style 580 

Leon  XIII 580 

loaf,  Princess  style 580 

Lyonese  style 580 

maitre  d'hotel 580 

married 581 

matelote  of 581 

omelet,  American 581 

44      anchovy 581 

bacon 582 

beef,  smoked 582 

cepes _ 582 

cheese  baked 582 

cheese  Parmesan 582 

chicken  liver 582 

crab 583 

crayfish 583 

egg  and  truffle 583 

green  peas.. 583 

ham _.  583 

kidney 584 

lobster 584 

mushroom 584 

oyster 584 

Parsley _  585 

Plain • 585 

potato 585 

prawn 585 

salmon 585 

sardine  ., _  586 

sausage 586 

savory 586 

shallot 587 

shrimp 587 

Spanish 587 

tomato 587 

truffle 587 

with  fine  herbs 588 

on  toast 588 

Parisian  style 588 

peasant   stvle 588 

Philadelphia _ 588 

poach;  how  to 589 

poached  Bourguignonne 589 

with  anchovy  sauce 589 

"    bechamel  sauce 589 

"    celery  sauce 589 

"     mushrooms 590 

41     wine  sauce 590 

poulette  style 590 

Queen  style 590 

Scotch  woodcock 591 

scrambled 591 

"         with  cream  and  mushrooms.  591 


888 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Eggs,  scrambled  with  smoked  beef 591 

"              "     truffles 591 

shirred 591 

Spanish 591 

stuffed 592 

"      with  anchovies 592 

sultana 592 

surprise 592 

tartlets,  curried 593 

Trenton _ 593 

turban  of 593 

Tuscany  _. 593 

Two  Brothers 593 

Valencienne  style 593 

Vol-au-vent 594 

Washington 594 

with  asparagus 594 

w        "     cheese  and  parsley 594 

"         "     cream 594 

«         "     kidneys 595 

"         "     tomato  sauce 595 

Farinaceous. 

Cheese  biscuits 596 

"         patties 596 

"        straws 596 

Dumplings,  German 597 

"             hard 597 

"             Indian 597 

Fondu  of  cheese 597 

Hominy,  boiled 598 

"        cakes 598 

"        croquettes 598 

"        fried ., 598 

Macaroni,  baked 599 

"           Bolognese  style 599 

"          curried 599 

"          Genovese  style 599 

Italian  style 600 

Milanese  style : 600 

Neapolitan  style 600 

stewed 601 

timbales 601 

with  cheese 601 

cream 601 

gravy  _._ 602 

ham 602 

•'                    kidneys 602 

"                   tomatoes 602 

Noodles 602 

"        baked 603 

'          with  Parmesan  cheese 603 

Nudels 603 

"       Dampf-nudels,  Polish  style 603 

Pastes,  Italian 604 

"        macaroni 604 

Pilau,  Indian 604 

"       rice 604 

"       Turkish 604 

Polenta  and  cheese 605 

"         timbales,  Milanese 605 

Ravioles,  baked 605 

11             for  soups 606 

Rice  border 606 

"     case  or  croustade 606 

"     croquettes,  Italian  style 607 


PAGE. 

Rice  croustades,  Queen  style 607 

'«     curried ' 607 

"    fried 607 

"     in  Turkish  style 608 

"     menagere 608 

"     Milanese 608 

"     patties 608 

Rissotto 608 

"       Milanese 609 

Spaghetti 609 

"         Italian  style 609 

"         Neapolitan  style 609 

"         with  cheese 610 

"         with  cream  sauce 610 

Welsh  rabbit 610 

"           "       baked 611 

"           "        Oscar  style 612 

Fish. 

Anchovies 47 

"            serve 47 

"            stuffed 47 

"             with  olives 47 

Bass,  baked  plain. 48 

"      boiled 48 

"      broiled 48 

"      fried  with  bacon 48 

Black  bass,  fried 49 

Bloaters,  broiled   ... 49 

Blue  fish,  baked,  Italian  style 49 

Bouillabaisse 49 

Carp,  baked 49 

"      baked,  Mariniere 50 

"      boiled 50 

"      pickled 50 

"      stewed 51 

Catfish,  stewed  with  tomatoes 51 

Codfish,  baked 51 

'         baked  with  cream 51 

'         balls 51 

'        boiled,  with  cream  sauce ..  52 

'             "         with  Hollandaise  sauce 52 

1         cleaning 52 

'         fillets,  Hollandaise 52 

1        fried 52 

1        fried,  maitre  d'hotel 53 

'        hashed 53 

'        matelote  of 53 

1        stewed 53 

Cod's  head,  baked 53 

Cod,  salted,  Biscayan  style 54 

"        "        boiled— -. -  54 

"        "            "       with  egg  sauce  .' 54 

"         "        with  brown  butter 54 

Cod's  tongues,  boiled,  with  egg  sauce 54 

fried -  55 

"            "           poulette  style 55 

•'             "           with  black  butter  sauce 55 

Eels,  braided,  royal  style 55 

'      brochettes  of 55 

'      broiled 56 

'      fricassee  of 56 

'      fried 56 

'      matelote  56 

'             "             Normandy  style 56 

'      stewed,  American  style 57 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Eels,  stewed,  Bordelaise  style 57 

"             "       poulette  style 57 

Fish  attelettes 57 

"     curried 58 

"     cutlets. 58 

"     fritters 58 

"     Normandy  style 58 

"     pickled 59 

Flounders,  baked 59 

"             "       Italian  style 59 

"         boiled 59 

"         fricassee  of 59 

"         fried 60 

Haddock,  baked 60 

"         boiled,  with  lobster  sauce.. 60 

"         broiled 61 

"        fried  fillets 61 

"         maitre  d'hotel 61 

"         smoked,  baked 61 

"                 "        broiled 61 

"                "        fried 61 

Halibut,  baked 61 

"       boiled 62 

"       broiled 62 

"       steaks  fried 62 

Herrings  fresh,  broiled,  maitre  d'hotel 62 

"               "           "          with  mustard  sauce  62 

"               "      matelote.. 63 

"              "      stewed . 63 

"         smoked . 63 

Kingfish  boiled 63 

Mackerel,  baked 63 

"          boiled 64 

"          boiled,  marinaded 64 

"          broiled 64 

"               "         Normandy  style 64 

"              "        with  black  butter 64 

"     Spanish  broiled 65 

Perch,  boiled 65 

"       broiled 65 

"      fried 65 

"       German  style 65 

"       Normandy 66 

"       Silesian  style 66 

Pike,  baked 66 

"      boiled,  Dubois 67 

"      boiled  with  caper  sauce 67 

"      fillets,  fried 67 

"      financiere 67 

"      fried 67 

"      pickled 68 

Pompano,  broiled 68 

Salmon,  baked  with  cream  sauce 68 

boiled .- 68 

"     with  oyster  sauce 69 

"     slices  with  piquant  sauce 69 

Bouchees 69 

boudins  of 69 

broiled 70 

croquettes 70 

curried 70 

cutlets 70 

English  style 71 

fried 71 

in  papers 71 

with  caper  sauce 71 

with  Milanese  sauce 71 


PAGE. 

Salmon,  cutlets  with  oyster  sauce 72 

"       fillets,  Parisian  style 72 

"  "     with  Ravigote  sauce 72 

"       fried 72 

'•       kippered  broiled 73 

"  "          fried 73 

"       in  matelote 73 

"       maitre  d'hotel 73 

"      patties 73 

"       vol-au-vent 74 

Salmon  trout,  baked 74 

"  "     boiled 74 

"  "    modern  style 74 

Sardines,  baked 75 

'         broiled 75 

'          curried . 75 

'          deviled 75 

'          maitre  d'hotel 76 

1          Piedmontese 76 

Shad,  baked 76 

"  "      American  style 76 

•    "     broiled 76 

"     broiled  with  sorrel 77 

"     fried 77 

"    planked 77 

Shad's  roes,  broiled 77 

"         "  «•       with  bacon 78 

"         "       croquettes 78 

"         "       fried ._ 78 

Sheep's  head,  boiled 1 78 

"  "       fillets  fried 78 

Skate,  boiled  with  black  butter 79 

"       fillets  baked 79 

"       Italian  style , 79 

"       stewed  with  caper  sauce 79 

Smelts,  baked 79 

"        Bearnaise 80 

Boulangere 80 


fried 

in  matelote 

sauted  in  brown  butter, 
stuffed  -. 

Toulouse.. 


80 
80 
80 
So 
81 

Sole,  baked  with  white  wine 81 

"    broiled . Si 

'     Colbert  style 81 

•     fillets  fried 82 

'  incases 82 

'  Joinville 82 

Orly 82 

'  Parisian  style 83 

'  provincial  style 83 

'  Rouennese 83 

'  with  anchovies 83 

"  with  oysters 83 

"  with  Ravigote  sauce 84 

"     Marechal 84 

"     Normandy  style 84 

"     paupiettes  of 84 

"     stewed  with  oyster  sauce 85 

Trout.baked 85 

"       Beyrout 85 

"       boiled 85 

"       broiled 86 

"  "      with  bacon 86 

"      brook 86 

"       croquettes 86 


890 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Trout,  fillets  Aurora 86 

"      sauted.. _.  86 

fried 87 

Hussar  style 87 

in  papers 87 

Venetian  style 87 

with  remoulade 88 

Turbot,  baked 88 

"        boiled  with  lobster  sauce 88 

"        broiled 88 

"        fillets  with  cream  sauce 89 

"         with  black  butter 89 

Vol-au-vent  of  fish,  Normandy 89 

White  bait,  deviled 89 

"         "      fried 90 

Whitefish,  fillets  baked 90 

Fish,  Shell. 

Clam  fritters 91 

Clams,  scalloped 91 

"       steamed 91- 

"       stewed 91 

"       Little-Neck  served  raw 92 

"       soft,  ancient  style 92 

"         "    fried 92 

"          "     Newburg  style 92 

"           "     stewed 93 

Crabs 93 

buttered 93 

croquettes 94 

deviled 94 

in  shells 94 

minced 94 

Queen  style 95 

Ravigote 95 

stewed 0,5 

soft-shell,  broiled 95 

"             fried 95 

"             stewed,  with  okras 96 

oyster,  fried 96 

'          "         stewed,  poulette  style ; 96 

Crayfish,  boiled  in  court  bouillon 96 

"         Bordelaise  style 96 

"         Mariniere 97 

"        patties 97 

"         timbale  of 97 

Edible  snails 98 

"           "     baked 98 

"           "     Bourgoyne . 98 

Frog's  legs,  baked 98 

"         "      broiled 99 

"         "      fricasseed 99 

"         "      fried 99 

"         "      stewed 99 

Lobster,  American  style 100 

"        baked 100 

"        boiled 100 

"         Bordelaise 100 

"         broiled 101 

"               "       Ravigote 101 

"        buttered 101 

cream 101 

croquettes 102 

curried 102 

cutlets 102 

deviled..  102 


PAGE. 

Lobster,  fricassee 102 

'•         fried 103 

"         fritters 103 

in  casserole 103 

in  shells 103 

Newburg 103 

on  skewers 104 

patties 104 

rissoles 104 

scalloped 104 

stewed 105 

"              "      Bordelaise 105 

"         vol-au-vent 105 

Mussels,  fried 105 

"         in  shells 106 

"         matelote 106 

"        poulette  style 106 

scalloped , 107 

stewed,  Mariniere 107 

Villeroy 107 

Oysters 107 

American  style 108 

baked 109 

"     in  their  shells 109 

"     on  toast 109 

bouchees 109 

broiled no 

"      breaded no 

"       in  the  shell no 

cocktails no 

cromeskies no 

croquettes no 

croustade in 

curried in 

fricassee m 

fried 112 

"      and  bacon 112 

"      deviled 112 

'•      patties 112 

"      truffled 113 

fritters 113 

in  cases 113 

Indian  style 113 

in  the  shell 114 

patties 114 

pie 114 

poulette 114 

scalloped . 115 

spiced 115 

steamed 115 

stewed 115 

"       Baltimore  style 110 

stuffed 116 

vol-au-vent 116 

with  cream 116 

"     Parmesan  cheese 117 

Prawns,  boiled 117 

"       buttered 117 

Scallops,  baked 117 

"         fried 117 

"        stewed 118 

Shrimps  and  boiled  rice 118 

'         buttered-. 118 

'         cromeskies 118 

'         Normandy  style 118 

'         patties  or  bouchees. 119 

'         scalloped 119 


INDEX. 


891 


PAGE. 

Shrimps,  stewed 119 

Terrapin _  119 

diamond  back  or  salt  water _  119 

baked 121 

baked,  Maryland  style 122 

fricassee 122 

steaks 122 

stewed 122 

"       Baltimore  style 123 

"       Maryland  style 123 

vol-au-vent.- 123 

Turtle  fins,  financiere 123 

"       stewed 124 

Game. 

Ducks,  canvas-back 338 

1             "           "     broiled 338 

'             "           "     roasted 338 

'         ruddy,  broiled 338 

'             "       roasted 338 

'         teal  broiled 339 

'            '    deviled 339 

'            '     gourmet  style 339 

'            '     roasted 340 

'         wild,  broiled 340 

'            '      fillets 340 

'            '          "     with  orange  sauce 340 

'            '      roasted , 341 

'            '      salmis 341 

Game,  bouchees 341 

croquettes 342 

cutlets 342 

deviled 342 

fillets  in  case 343 

pie 343 

salmis 343 

souffles 344 

vol-au-vent 344 

Goose,  wild,  baked  with  mushroom  or  celery 

sauce 344 

Grouse,  broiled 345 

cutlets  fried 345 

larded 345 

pie 346 

roasted 346 

salmis 346 

stewed 347 

supreme,  Richelieu  style 347 

Guinea  fowls,  broiled 347 

"             "       roasted,  larded 348 

Hares 348 

back  with  poivrade  sauce 348 

baked 349 

broiled 349 

civet 349 

civet  Bourgeoise 350 

"       French  style 350 

fillets  fried  with  quenelles 350 

•'      larded,  minute  style 351 

"      with  poivrade  sauce 351 

gibelotte 351 

pie 3Si 

roasted  with  cream  sauce 352 

salmis 352 

stewed '. 352 

timbales 353 


PAGE. 

Larks,  ballotines  of 353 

broiled 353 

in  cases 353 

patties 354 

Portuguese  style 354 

roasted 354 

scalloped  in  a  croustade 354 

Ortolans,  broiled  in  papers 355 

fried 355 

"        incases 3155 

«        patties 355 

"        perigordine 356 

"        provincial  style 356 

"        roasted 356 

Partridges,  boiled  with  cream  sauce 356 

"            braised 357 

"                "        and  cabbage 357 

"                "        financiere 357 

"                "        perigueux 357 

"         with  truffles 358 

broiled,  American  style 358 

"          cutlets  with  Colbert  sauce  358 

chartreuse 358 

croustades 359 

fillets  financiere 359 

"      Toulouse - 3159 

"                "      with  truffles 360 

«             pie 360 

"             Princess  Beatrice  style 360 

"            purge  of 361 

"             roasted 361 

"              '"         Perigord 361 

•<                «        stuffed  with  truffles -  361 

"                "        salmis... 362 

"             sauted,  hunter's  style.- 362 

"            stewed 362 

"                "        chipolata 362 

"                "         Montmorency 363 

"                "         Spanish  style ..  363 

Pheasant,  braised '-  363 

"              "         financiere 364 

broiled 364 

fillets,  Maintenon 364 

"        fried  with  truffles 365 

legs,  deviled 365 

Perigueux 365 

roasted 365 

salmis 365 

Soubise 366 

Plovers,  braised 366 

"      broiled 366 

"       fried,  with  truffle 366 

"      roasted 367 

"      salmis,  Maison  d'Or 367 

Prairie  chicken,  fricassee 367 

«            "        roasted,. 368 

"            "        stewed 368 

Quails,  broiled 368 

"       with  bacon 368 

Crapaudine 369 

larded 369 

in  cases 369 

Jardiniere 369 

roasted 37° 

salmis 370 

with  green  peas 370 

Rabbit,  deviled --  37° 


892 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Rabbit,  fillets,  Valencienne  style 371 

"      jugged 371 

pie 371 

"       roasted,  with  olives 372 

"       sauted 372 

"      stewed 372 

"  "       with  fine  herbs ^ 372 

Reed  birds,  broiled 373 

"      fried 373 

"         "      roasted 373 

Snipes,  broiled 373 

"         fillets,  in  cases 373 

"         roasted 374 

"         salmis 374 

Squirrels,  American  style 374 

"  broiled 375 

Venison  chops,  broiled 375 

'  "  "      with  chestnut  puree._  371; 

'  "        fried 375 

1         collops r 375 

1         cutlets,  braised 376 

'  "          broiled 376 

1         fillet,  roasted 376 

1  "      St.  Hubert 376 

forequarters,  roasted 377 

jugged,  with  poivrade  sauce 377 

leg,  roasted 377 

roasted 377 

saddle,  baked 378 

"         Polish  style 378 

"         roasted ___  378 

shoulder,  roasted,  French  style 378 

steaks,  broiled 379 

"         hunter'sstyle 379 

stewed 379 

Widgeons,  grilled 379 

"  roasted 380 

Woodcocks,  broiled 380 

fillets,  in  surprise 380 

"       Lucullus 380 

"      on  toast 381 

"       with  truffle  puree 381 

in  croustades 381 

minute  style 382 

Perigueux 382 

roasted 382 

salmi 383 

Woodhens  broiled 383 

"  Russian  style 383 

Garnishings. 

Bouquet  garnished  to  prepare 545 

Croquettes,  to  prepare 545 

Crouton  of  fried  bread 545 

Croutons 545 

"         bread  for  entrees 546 

"  "  "  entremets., 546 

"  "soup 546 

"  "  "  "  conde 546 

Dumplings  for  broth .. 546 

"  sago  for  soup,  German 546 

Egg  balls  for  soup 547 

"  "  "  "  turtle 547 

Eggs  poached  for  soup 547 

Forcemeats,  American 547 

"  balls _ 547 


PAGE. 

Forcemeats,  balls  for  soup.. 548 

"       "    turtle  soup 548 

chicken 548 

chicken  for  patties 548 

game . 548 

goose  fat  liver 549 

ham      549 

hare  s  liver 549 

lobster 549 

mushrooms 550 

partridge 550 

pheasant 550 

pies  for 550 

pigeons 550 

pike 551 

pork  with  bacon 551 

rissoles 551 

shrimps 551 

suckling  pig  for "    .  5151 

truffle 552 

turkey  or  veal  for 552 

veal 552 

veal  for  balls  or  stuffing 552 

"       "    mock  turtle  soup 552 

"       "    stuffing  fish 1553 

"       "    turkey  (boiled) 553 

Garnish,  admiral 5153 

"         artichoke  bottoms 1553 

Bayard 553 

"         beefmarrow 553 

"         Bordeaux,  Bordelaise 554 

"         cardoons  for 554 

"         carrots  for 554 

"         cepes  for 5154 

"         chambord 554 

"         chicken  livers 555 

"         chipolata 555 

chivry 555 

"         commodore ccc 

/»  i  -jjj 

crayfish 555 

"         Durand 555 

"         D'Uxelles 556 

"         financiere 15:56 

"         Flemish 556 

game 556 

"         godard 556 

"         gourmet 557 

green  peas 557 

"     puree 557 

"         leeks 5157 

"         mariniere 557 

"        matelote 558 

Milanese 558 

Montebello 15158 

mushroom 558 

mushrooms  stewed 558 

Normandy 558 

olives . 559 

onion  for  fricassee . 559 

Parisian 559 

peasant 559 

providence 559 

provincial 560 

Regency 560 

Rouennese 560 

smelts 560 

Soubise 560 


INDEX. 


893 


PAGE. 

Garnish  St.  Nazaire 560 

supreme 561 

tomatoes 561 

Toulouse 561 

turtle 561 

truffles 562 

turnips 562 

Valencia 562 

Vanderbilt 562 

vegetable  for  soups 562 

Parsley,  fried 563 

Puree  of  chestnuts 563 

Quenelles,  beef  marrow 563 

"            calf's  liver 563 

"             chicken 563 

"             Dutch 564 

"             for  soup  entrees 564 

"             herb  and  forcemeat 564 

"             turtle 564 

Ravioles  of  game  in  consomme 565 

Salpicons 565 

"         crayfish 565 

"        financiere 565 

"         hunter's  style 565 

"         Montglas 566 

"         shrimps 566 

"         with  Madeira 566 

Stuffing,  anchovy 567 

"         for  birds 567 

chestnut 567 

"          for  turkey 567 

"          with  truffles 568 

chicken 568 

"         livers  for  birds 568 

for  ducks 568 

for  fish 568 

for  fowls 568 

giblet  for  turkey 569 

goose 569 

pickled  pork  for  turkeys 569 

potato 569 

poultry  galantines 569 

rabbits 570 

suckling  pigs 570 

truffle  and  chestnut 570 

"        for  turkey 570 

turkey  boiled  or  rabbit 570 

"         roasted 571 

Turkish  for  poultry 571 

veal . "- 571 

Yorkshire  pudding 571 

Ice-Creams  and  Ices. 

Bavarois  lemon 722 

"         maraschino 722 

"         pineapple 722 

"         pistachio 722 

Charlotte  iced 723 

"         panachee 723 

Ice-Cream 723 

almond  and  raspberry -•--  723 

apricot  and  pistachio 724 

banana 724 

brown  bread 724 

caramel 724 

chestnut 725 


PAGE. 

Ice-Cream  chocolate ___ _._  725 

"         citron 725 

"        coffee 725 

French 725 

fruit 725 

ginger 726 

hazel-nut . 726 

hickory-nut 726 

kirsch 726 

lemon 726,  727 

macaroon 727 

maraschino 727 

orange 727 

Neapolitan 727 

New  York 728 

nougat 728 

nut 728 

peach 728 

pear 729 

pistachio 729 

Plombiere 729 

plum 729 

Portuguese 730 

punch 730 

ratafia 730 

sherbet 730 

strawberry 730 

vanilla 731 

"      and  chocolate 731 

"         "     strawberry 731 

walnut 731 

wine 732 

Ice  cups 732 

"  granites,  lemon 732 

"        "          orange 732 

Mousse  caramel 732 

"       chestnut 733 

"       Charlotte 733 

"       strawberry . 733 

"       with  coffee 734 

Parf ait  with  chocolate 734 

Puddings  (Iced)  Alexandria 734 

"                     cabinet 734 

frozen  fig 735 

iced 735 

"                      Nesselrode 735 

nut 735 

"                       plum 736 

Punch  in  surprise 736 

"         Kirsch 737 

"         maraschino 737 

"         Roman 737 

"         strawberry 737 

Sherbets,  American 737 

"         carnot 73$ 

cherry,  white 738 

cream 738 

Kirsch 738 

lemon 739 

orange 739 

pineapple 739 

strawberry 739 

Waldorf   style 739 

with   champagne 74° 

Souffle  ices 74° 

"         "    vanilla  and  chocolate 740 

"         "    with  brandy 740 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Soufflfe  ices  with  maraschino 741 

"         "    with  meringue 741 

"        "    with  vanilla 741 

Tutti  frutti 741 

Water  ices,  apple 742 

"      apricot 742 

"      cherry,  red 742 

"      lemon 742 

"      Madeira... 742 

"      melon 743 

"     orange 743 

peach 743 

"      pear . 743 

pineapple 743 

"      pistachio 744 

"      raspberry 744 

"      strawberry _  744 

"      vanilla 744 


Lamb. 

Lamb  Bulletin,  with  peas 

"      blanquette 

"      breast,  braised 

"  "         Milanese  style 

"        broiled 

"        stewed 

brochettes 

chops,  broiled 

"         in  papers 

"         fried 

"         Maintenon  style 

"         with  brown  sauce 

"         with  champagne -_ 

"         with  Perigueux  sauce 

croquettes 

curried 

cutlets,  broiled 

"        Duchess  style 

"        fried 

"         in  papers 

"        Jardiniere 

"         Villeroy 

"         with  asparagus 

"         with  spinach 

epigrammes,  with  asparagus  tops 

"  with  macedoine 

fricassee 

hashed 

haunch,  roasted 

kidneys,  broiled,  maitre   d'hotel 

"  "          with  Colbert  sauce. 

deviled 

"          fried,  with  bread  croutons.. 

"         stewed 

leg,  boiled 

liver,  broiled 

"      fried 

minced  with  poached  eggs 

pilau 

quarter  (fore),  roasted 

"       (hind),  roasted 

"  "         with  celery 

saddle, roasted  

"      and  leg 

shoulder  braised 

"  "       African  style 


167 
167 
167 
1 68 
1 68 
1 68 
1 68 
168 
169 
169 
169 
169 
169 
170 
170 
170 
170 
171 
171 
171 
172 
172 
172 
173 
i73 
173 
173 
174 
'74 
'74 
174 
'74 
175 
'75 
175 

*75 
176 
176 
176 
176 
176 
177 
177 
177 
177 
178 


PAGE. 

Lamb,  shoulder  braised,  Flemish  style 178 

"                 "       Rouennese . 178 

"          roasted  and  mint  sauce 178 

stewed  with  tomatoes 178 

sweetbreads  baked 178 

"            fricassee 179 

"            in  cases 179 

"             in  shells 179 

"             stewed 179 

"            timbale  of 180 

"             with  villeroy  sauce 180 

tongues  boiled 180 

"        glazed 180 

"        pickled 181 

"        stewed 181 

Mutton. 

Sheep's  brains  poulette 182 

"             "       with  remoulade  sauce 182 

Mutton  breast,  baked 182 

"       braised 182 

"       boiled  with  caper  sauce 183 

"      stewed 183 

chops  braised 183 

"     breaded  and  sauted 183 

"     broiled 183 

"           "       Brittany  style 184 

"           "       provincial  style 184 

"       Soyer 184 

"     fried 184 

"         "     Soubise  style 184 

"     Maintenon  style .  185 

cromeskies .  185 

curried 185 

"       forcemeat  balls 185 

cutlets  braised 186 

"       broiled 186 

"  "       with     carrots,    maitre 

d'hotel 186 

"           "       with  macedoine  of  veg- 
etables   186 

"           "       with  mushroom  sauce  187 

"           "       with  string  beans 187 

"           "       with  tomato  sauce 187 

"       financiere  style 187 

"       fried,  Soubise  style 188 

"       Indian  style... 188 

"      Jardiniere 188 

"       maitre  d'hotel 189 

"       Marshal  style 189 

"       Rachel  style 189 

"       Venetian  style 190 

deviled 190 

fillets,  fried 190 

"      minute  style 190 

"      roasted 191 

fore  quarter,  roasted 191 

fricasseed 191 

"            with  egg-plant 191 

haggis „ 191 

"       imitation 192 

haricot . , 192 

hashed 193 

"       and  fried  eggs 193 

"       zingara  style 193 

haunch  roasted 193 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Sheep's  hearts  stewed 193 

Irish  stew 194 

Mutton  kidneys,  bacon  rolls 194 

"            "         broiled,  maitre  d'hotel 194 

"            "        curried 195 

"            "        deviled 195 

"             "         French  style 195 

"             "        fried 195 

"             "         fried  with  curry  sauce 195 

"            "        in  border 196 

"             "        on   skewers 196 

"        in  terrine 196 

"        stewed 196 

leg  boiled  with  caper  sauce 196 

"         "          "       oyster  stuffing 197 

"   braised 197 

"        "        boned,  Milanese  style.  197 

"   provincial  style 

"   roasted 198 

"        "         boned  and  stuffed 198 

"        "         Portuguese  style 198 

loin  in  papers 199 

"   roasted  rolled 199 

"        "          stuffed 199 

minced 200 

neck,  Brittany  style 200 

"     stewed,  Duchess  style 200 

on  skewers 201 

"         patties  minced 201 

"        pies 201 

"        pilau,  Sultana  style 201 

"         rissoles 202 

"         saddle,  braised 202 

"            "         in  surprise 202 

"            "         roast 203 

"            "             "     with  chestnut  puree-.  203 
"         shoulder   boned,   Prince   of   Wales 

style 203 

"         shoulder  braised,  boned 203 

"                "         spiced 204 

"                "        stewed 204 

"        steak,  Florentine 204 

"         stew 204 

"            "     farmer's  style 205 

"             "     Turkish 205 

"        timbale 205 

Sheep's  tongues  braised  with   lettuces 206 

"            "        grilled 206 

"            "        in  papers 206 

"            "        stewed 206 

"      trotters  casserole  with  rice 206 

"             "         poulette 207 

"            "         vinaigrette 207 


Pastry. 


Almonds 745 

"        to  blanch 745 

"         to  color 745 

"        to   pound 745 

Almond  croquettes 746 

Baba 746 

"     with  Madeira 747 

"         "     vanilla  cream  sauce 747 

Biscuits,  almond 747 

"       sponge 747 

"        champagne 747 


PAGE. 

Biscuits,  chocolate  _______  .  _________________  748 

cream  ____________________________  748 

orange  ___________________________  748 

pistachio  ________  .....  ____________  748 

raspberry  ______________  .....  _____  749 

vanilla  _________  .....  _____________  749 

walnut  and  jam  ___________________  749 

wine  finger  _______________________  749 

Brandy  snaps  ______________________________  750 

Cakes,  almond  _____________________________  750 

"         American  white  ____________________  750 

"        apricot  _____________________________  750 

bride  _______________________________  751 

carnival  ____________________________  751 

Chantilly  _________________  .....  _____  751 

chestnut  ________  ___________________  751 

chous  crisped,  pralined  with  almonds.  752 

"      filled  with  cream  ______________  752 

Christmas  __________________________  752 

cinnamon  ________________________  .__  752 

citron  ----  ........  ----  .....  ----  .  ----  753 

cocoanut  ________________  .....  ______  753 

"          and  orange  cream  for  cakes  753 

coffee  ------------------------------  753 

conde  ------------------------------  753 

cookies,  New  Year's  ________________  754 

cornstarch  __________________________  754 

country  ____________________________  754 

cream  _____________________________  754 

cream  puffs  ________________________  755 

"          "      Boston  _________________  755 

delicate  ____________________________  755 

dessert  -----------------------------  756 

Eclairs,  coffee  or  chocolate  __________  756 

"          cream  for  ___________________  756 

"          icing  for  ____________________  756 

family  -----------------------------  757 

feuillantines  ________________________  757 

flame  ______________________________  757 

fruit  -------------------------------  757 

galettes  ----------------------------  758 

gingerbread,  American,  Southern  ____  758 

"            French  ________________  758 

"            spiced  _________________  758 

"            wafer  _________________  759 

"             with  cocoanut  _________  759 

ginger  cake  ------------------------  759 

"       loaf  -------------------------  759 

"      snaps  ------------------------  759 

hazel-nut  __________________________  760 

hickory-nut  ________________________  760 

home-made  _________________________  760 

honey  ______________________________  760 

jelly  _______________________________  761 

jelly  roll  ___________________________  761 

Jersey  wonders  _____________________  761 

ladies  bouchees  _____________________  762 

"            "          raspberry  ____________  762 

lady  ________________________________  762 

"      fingers  _________________________  762 

leaf  _________________________________  762 

lemon  ______________________________  763 

"      cheese  ________________________  763 

"      puffs  _________________________  763 

"      roll  ___________________________  763 

lunch  ________________  i  ______________  764 


macaroon 


896 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Cakes,  macaroon  flavored  with  chocolate 764 

"                "                  "         with  coffee 764 

"                "                  "         with  lemon 765 

"                "             Mirletons 765 

"                "             Swiss 765 

"                "            white 765 

"                "             with  almonds 766 

"                "             with  pistachio  nuts 766 

"        Madeleine,  Printaniere 766 

"                "              without  butter 767 

"         Meringue 767 

"                "            cream 767 

"                "            maraschino 768 

"         Millefeuilles 768 

"         molasses 768 

Nelson _ 768 

New  Year 768 

Nougatinas 769 

nut 769 

orange 769 

paste,  Marzipan 770 

pastry,  almond  apricot 770 

pistachio 770 

plum 771 

pop-overs 771 

Portuguese 771 

pound 771 

"       citron 772 

"       cocoanut 772 

puff-paste 772 

raisin 772 

ratafias 773 

Savarin 773 

savory 773 

short 773 

"     peach 774 

"     strawberry 774 

soda 774 

spice 774 

sponge 775 

"        almond 775 

"        Chantilly 775 

St.  Honor6 775 

tea 777 

Vacherin,  Chantilly 777 

vanilla 778 

walnut,  large 778 

wine 778 

Pastry,  Genoese 778 

"         Neapolitan 779 

"         royal 779 

Wafers 779 

almond 779 

chocolate 780 

cinnamon 780 

filled  with  cream 780 

French 780 

lemon 781 

vanilla  flavored 781 

Waffles,  American 781 

'         French 781 

'         raised 781 

Pastes,  almond 782 

"         chopped 782 

"         crisp 782 

"         croquante 782 

"         for  borders 783 


PAGE. 

Pastes,  for  cheese  cakes 783 

custards  or  preserved  fruits 783 

ornamenting  tartlets 783 

patties 784 

"       oyster 784 

pies 784 

"     meat  or  game 785 

"     savory 785 

Geneva 785 

lard... 786 

made  with  cream 786 

puff 786 

"     half 788 

"     made  with  beef  suet 788 

'      lard 788 

"        "         "      oil 788 

rice  for  sweets 788 

"    for  tarts 789 

short 789 

"     for  savory  pies 789 

transparent  for  tartlets 789 

Pickles,  Condiments,  Catsup,  Etc. 

Bottled  tomatoes 853 

Burnt  onions 853 

Cayenne  pepper 853 

Chow  chow 853 

Chutney 854 

"         mango 854 

"         tomato 854 

Extract  of  garlic 854 

Gherkins 855 

Herb  flavoring  for  sauces   etc 855 

Catsup  cucumber 855 

"         mushroom 855 

"        oyster 855 

"         tomato 855 

"         walnut 856 

Parsley  juice  for  coloring 856 

Picalilli,  tomato 856 

Pickle  of  brine 857 

"   for  beef 857 

"           hams 857 

"           pork 857 

"           tongue 857 

"           mackerel 857 

"           salmon 857 

Pickled  beet-roots 858 

"         cabbage,  red 858 

"                "         white 858 

"  /     cauliflower 858 

"         celery 858 

"         corn 859 

cucumbers 859 

"            like  mango  pickles 859 

eggs 860 

garlic 860 

lemons 860 

mangoes 860 

mushrooms 861 

onions 861 

onions  and  cucumbers 861 

onions,  Spanish 86 1 

oysters 862 

tomatoes 862 

Pickles,    French 862 


INDEX. 


897 


PAGE. 

Pickles,  green 863 

"         mixed 863 

"         mustard 863 

"         nectarine,  green 864 

"         Spanish 864 

"         tomato,  green 864 

"         walnut 865 

Potato  yeast 865 

Preserved  green-corn 865 

••         mango 866 

"         mushrooms 866 

"         parsley  for  winter  use 866 

"         tomatoes 867 

"         truffles 867 

Removing  salt  from  butter 867 

Sauce,  aristocratic 867 

cardinal  fish 867 

chef  for  steaks 868 

gourmet's 868 

governor's 868 

Harvey 868 

hot 869 

Worcestershire 869 

Sp  ce,  French 869 

"         sausage 869 

kitchen 869 

mixed _ 870 

savory 870 

Spiced  tomatoes 870 

Tomato  paste ,. 870 

Vinegar,  celery 870 

"         fine  herbs 871 

"         garlic 871 

"         horseradish 871 

"         tarragon 871 

"        tomato 871 

"         walnut 872 

Pork. 

Bacon  and  eggs . 209 

and  spinach 209 

boiled  and  cabbage 209 

broiled 210 

broiled,  and  liver 210 

fried 210 

preparing  for  breakfast 210 

salted,  dried  and  smoked 210 

with  macaroni 211 

Pork,  baked 211 

broiled,  with  Chili  sauce 211 

chops,  broiled 212 

curried 212 

cutlets  and  anchovy  sauce 212 

"        fried 212 

Pij,'s  ears,baked 213 

1        braised 213 

'       '       Lyonese 213 

'     feet,  boiled 213 

'        broiled 213 

'        crepinettes 214 

'        fricasseed  (and  ears) 214 

'        stewed 214 

'        stuffed,  Perigueux 215 

fillets,  or  tenderloin,  broiled 215 

"         "                     "             hunter's  style 215 

Ham 215 


PAGE. 

Ham,  baked „_ 216 

"         "      stuffed 216 

"     braised 216 

"     boiled 216 

"      boned 217 

broiled 217 

cooked  in  Madeira  or  champagne 217 

croquettes 217 

deviled 217 

fried 217 

frizzled 218 

pie  and  chicken 218 

roasted 218 

"     steaks 218 

Pork,  hashed 219 

Pig's  head,  baked 219 

"         "       boiled 219 

"      kidneys,  maitre  d'hotel 219 

"            "          stewed 219 

Pork,  leg,  roasted 220 

"       loin,  Bordelaise,  roasted 220 

"         "      French  style,  roasted 220 

"       marinaded,  roasted 220 

"       minced 221 

"       pickled 221 

"           "        baked,  and  beans 221 

"        boiled,  and  cabbage 221 

"       pie __  222 

"       ribs,  stewed  and  stuffed 222 

"       saddle,  roasted 222 

Sausages,  baked 223 

"         Bologna 223 

"          country 223 

"          deviled _.  223 

"         Frankfort 223 

"         fried  meat 224 

"         ham 224 

"         pork 224 

"             "     boiled  in  white  wine 225 

"        smoked 225 

"        stewed  with  cabbage 225 

"         Westphalian 225 

Pork  shoulder,  roasted 226 

Suckling  pig 226 

"          '"     baked 226 

"           "     timbale 227 

Pig's  tails,  boiled 227 

Poultry. 

Capons 276 

"         boiled 276 

"             "      barded,  with  mushrooms 276 

"         braised 277 

"             "         Chipolata  style 177 

"             "         financiere 277 

"             "         Godard  style 278 

"             "         with  sweetbreads  and  truffles  278 

"         pie 278 

"         roasted 279 

"         roasted  with  noodles 279 

"         stewed,  French  style 279 

Chicken 279 

"         bechamel  sauce 282 

"         boiled 282 

"            "       Providence  style 282 

"            "       royal  style 283 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Chicken,  boiled,  stuffed 283 

"  "       with  onions 283 

"  "       with  poulette  sauce 283 

"  "      with  rice 283 

"  "       with  tarragon  sauce 284 

"         braised 284 

"  "       Montmorency  style 284 

"  "      printaniere * 284 

"         broiled 285 

"  "        cutlets 285 

"  "        with  bacon 285 

"         Capilotade  of 285 

"         croquettes 286 

"  "  Perigourdin 286 

"  "  Queen  style 286 

"         curried 286 

"  "       Creole  style 287 

"  "       Spanish  style 287 

"         custard 287 

"         cutlets 287 

"        deviled 287 

"         fillets  braised 287 

"  "       epigrammes 288 

"  "       fried  with  mushrooms 288 

"       larded 288 

"       Perigord 289 

"       Princess  style 289 

"      sauted 290 

"  "       royal  style 290 

"       with  truffle  sauce 290 

"       Villeroy 290 

"       with  asparagus 291 

"       with  mushroom  puree 291 

fricassee 291 

"         American  style 292 

"         bonne  femme - 292 

"         peasant  style 292 

fried 293 

"     Marengo 293 

"     Mercier 293 

"     Vanderbilt 293 

"     with  okras 294 

fritters 294 

giblet  pie 294 

giblets,  stewed • _  294 

grilled,  hunter's  style 295 

hashed 295 

in  shell 295 

legs,  broiled 295 

"     deviled 296 

"     in  papers 296 

"     Perigueux 296 

livers  incases 296 

"     on  skewers 297 

"     stewed  in  Madeira  wine 297 

"          "       with  mushrooms 297 

minced,  Polish  style 297 

"  with  eggs 298 

patties 298 

pot-pie 298 

pilau,  Turkish  style 299 

quenelles,  stuffed 299 

rissoles 299 

roast 300 

"     Maryland  style 300 

"     with  chestnut  stuffing 300 

"         "    oyster  sauce 300 


PAGE. 

Chicken,  saut6d 301 

"             "         Bordelaise  style 301 

"             "         Hungarian  style 302 

"             "         Marengo 302 

"         with  tarragon 302 

seal  loped 302 

souffle 302 

stewed 303 

'   cardinal 303 

'       matelote 303 

'       Milanese 304 

'       stuffed  Godard 304 

'       Villeroy 304 

'        with  asparagus 305 

'            "     mushrooms 305 

'           "     tomatoes 305 

supreme  of 305 

'              "  fillets 306 

1              "Rothschild 306 

'              "  Toulouse 306 

timbale 307 

turban,  Cleveland 307 

truffled 308 

"         vol-au-vent 308 

"                "            Toulouse 308 

"         Waldorf  style 309 

Duck  braised 309 

"              "       Empress  style 309 

"               "       with  mushrooms _  309 

"     deviled 310 

"     giblets  stew'ed 310 

"     hunter's  style 310 

"     pie 310 

"     roast 311 

"         "     with  orange  sauce ...  311 

"     salmis 311 

"     stewed 311 

"          "      with  chestnuts 311 

"          "         ••     olives 311 

"     with  marinaded  cucumbers 312 

Ducklings  curried 312 

"           fillets  with  green  peas 312 

"           roasted 313 

"               "         with  apple  sauce 313 

Giblet  pie . 3*3 

Goose,  deviled 313 

"         fat  liver  attereaux 314 

"           "       "     croquettes 314 

"           "       "     fried  with  truffle  sauce 314 

"           "       "     in  shells 314 

"         giblets  stewed  with  apples 315 

"         legs  deviled 315 

"         livers  stewed 315 

"         pat^  of  foies  gras 316 

"         pie i 316 

"           "giblet 316 

"         roasted  and  chestnut  stuffing 317 

"         smoked 317 

"        stewed 317 

Gosling,  baked 317 

"         braised. 3*8 

Pigeon 318 

"         Bourgeoise 3r8 

"         braised 319 

«         broiled 319 

"             "         crapaudine 3r9 

"            "         in  papers 3X9 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Pigeon,  Chartreuse ... —  320 

'          curried . 320 

4         cutlets 320 

'  "        fried 321 

'          Duchess 321 

1          epigrammes . 321 

1          financiere 322 

'         f  ricandeau 322 

'          fricaseed 322 

4         fried 322 

4  "     with  celery 323 

4          pie 323 

'          roasted 323 

4  "        stuffed  with  chestnuts 323 

4         salmis 324 

4          stewed  with  green  peas 324 

stuffed 324 

4          timbale  with  truffles 325 

Squab,  American  style 325 

'         ballotines 325 

'          broiled 325 

4  4<         on  toast  with  bacon 325 

'         chipolata 326 

4          compote 326 

4         crapaudine 326 

4          pie 326 

4          roasted ...  327 

Turkey ,.  327 

"         boiled 328 

"       English  style.. 328 

"       stuffed  with  celery 328 

44       with  oyster  sauce 329 

Bo  u  rgeoise 329 

braised 329 

"         stuffed  with  truffles 330 

4<         with  chestnut  puree,  larded.  330 

breasts,  Spanish  style 330 

croquettes 33 1 

fillets,  Milanese 331 

fricassee 331 

giblets 331 

41        on  skewers 332 

44         stewed  with  turnips 332 

hashed 333 

"         royal 333 

"         with  cream 333 

legs  broiled 333 

"    deviled 333 

minced  with  poached  eggs 333 

patties 334 

pie 334 

roast _  334 

44     financiere 335 

"     stuffed  with  bacon  and  truffles  335 

44          "       with  chestnuts 335 

41  "       with  oysters 336 

44     Turkish  style .._  336 

scalloped 336 

stewed,  with  celery 337 

"         with  noodles 337 

Toulouse 337 

Preserves,  Jams,  Marmalades,  Etc. 

Almond  milk 822 

Bottled  currants,  red 822 

44         fruits..  822 


PAGE. 

Bottled  greengages . ...  _„_  822 

44         pineapple _____.._ 822 

14         plums , 823 

14        raspberries ...    823 

"         strawberries 823 

Brandied  fruits 823 

Brandy, apple 824 

44         apricot 824 

4'        peach 824 

41        plum 824 

44        prune 825 

44         raspberry 825 

Candied  nectarines 825 

"          nuts,  prystallized 825 

44         pears .  826 

"          plums 826 

Conserve  of  .strawberries 826 

Dried  grape  fruit 826 

•'      greengages 826 

"       peaches 827 

44       pineapple 827 

Ginger  sugar 827 

14        apple .-  828 

Grapes  glazed  with  sugar 828 

Jam,  American  crab-apple 828 

'     apple _  828 

'     cherry 828- 

'        "        without  sugar 829 

'     cranberry 829 

'     currant 829 

4        4I         black 829 

'         "         red 830 

4         "         red  and  white 830 

'     gooseberry 830 

4     grape 830 

'     grapefruit 830 

1     greengage . 831 

'     nectarine 831 

'     peach 831 

'     pear 1 831 

'     plum 832 

'     pineapple 832 

1     raspberry  and  cherry 832 

4     rhubarb 832 

4     strawberry 833 

4             '•             and  raspberry 833 

Je  ly,  apple 833 

'       calf's  feet 834 

'      crab-apple,  American 834 

'      cranberry 834 

'       currant,  black 834 

'             "        juice .-.  835 

red 835 

'     fruit 835 

'    gooseberry 835 

'     grape...- 836 

'     guava 836 

'     pineapple 836 

'     quince 837 

'     rhubarb , 837 

Lemon  mixture  for  puddings- 837 

Marmalade  apple 837 

apricot 838 

cherry 838 

currant,  red 838 

lemon 838 

orange ---  839 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Marmalade,  peach 839 

44            pineapple 839 

44             plum 839 

44            quince 840 

"            raspberry 840 

41             rhubarb 840 

Mince-meat 840 

"             lemon 841 

Orange,  ratafia 841 

Paste,  apricot  — 841 

"     chestnut 841 

44     lemon 842 

"     pear,  candied 842 

"     plum 842 

"     quince 842 

Pickled  grapes —  843 

"        peaches 843 

"        pears 843 

"        plums 843 

Preserved  American  crab-apples 844 

apples 844 

cherries 844 

chestnuts 844 

cucumbers 845 

currants,  red 845 

fruit  in  ginger  syrup 845 

"     juice 846 

gooseberries 846 

grapes 846 

lemons 846 

nectarines 847 

peaches  , 847 

pears 847 

pineapple 847 

plums 848 

"        prunes - 848 

"         quinces 848 

"         raspberries 849 

"         strawberries . 849 

Strawberry  shrub 849 

Sugared  quinces 850 

Syrup  chocolate 850 

"     currant 850 

"     currant,  red 851 

"     raspberry 851 

"     strawberry , —  851 

Vanilla  essence 851 

"       extract 851 

"      flavoring 852 

•'       sugar 852 

Salads. 

Dressed  salad 418 

Dressings  for  salad 418 

"           cream  for  salad 418 

"               "        for  cucumber  salad 4f9 

Salads,  anchovy 419 

"         asparagus,  German  style 419 

"        bacon 419 

"        beef 419 

"         beet-root 420 

"         Bohemian 420 

"         Brunswick 420 

"        cabbage,  red  and  celery 420 

"        cabbage,  white 420 

"        cauliflower 421 


PAGE. 

Salads,  celery 421 

"         celery  with  mayonnaise 421 

"         chicory 421 

44         chicken 421 

41        chiffonade 422 

crab 422 

crayfish  with  aspic 422 

cress 422 

dandelion 423 

"       .    contoise 423 

demi-devil 423 

Dumas 423 

Dutch __  423 

egg 424 

egg  and  beet-root 424 

French 424 

game 424 

green  pea 425 

herring  salted 425 

Japanese 425 

Jardiniere 425 

leek 426 

lettuce . 426 

and  tomato 426 

lobster 426 

"         mayonnaise 427 

macedoine 427 

meat,  cold  and  potatoes 428 

mussel 428 

onion  and  tomato 428 

"       Spanish 428 

oyster 428 

potato 429 

prawn 429 

radish 429 

Russian .  429 

"       with  caviar 430 

salmon 430 

salsify 430 

sardine 430 

scallop 430 

shrimp 431 

sorrel 431 

Spanish 431 

string  bean 431 

tomato 431 

14         and  artichoke 432 

41       and  cucumber 432 

44       in  surprise 432 

"       with  mayonnaise 432 

41        tongue 432 

truffle 433 

41       and  celery 433 

vegetable 433 

Waldorf 433 

"         watercress          .. 433 

Sauces  and  Butters. 

(See  also  STOCKS.) 

Butter,  anchovy 498 

black  or  brown 498 

crayfish 498 

creamed 498 

drawn 498 

garlic,  sauce 499 

horseradish 499 

lobster 499 


INDEX. 


901 


PAGE. 

Butter,  maitre  d'hotel 499 

"         olive  and  anchovy 499 

"         Ravigote 499 

"         sardine 500 

"         shrimp 500 

"         tarragon 500 

"         thickened 500 

Flavoring  garlic  for  gravies 501 

"                "      for  salad  (chapon) 501 

Gravy, chicken .. 501 

coloring  for 501 

fish - 501 

game,  for  mutton 502 

goose,  roasted 502 

meat 502 

shallot 502 

thick,  with  fine  herbs 502 

turkey 503 

veal 503 

venison 503 

wild  fowl 503 

Liaison  of  butter , 504 

"       and  cream 504 

of  egg 504 

of  flour .  504 

of  roux 504 

Sauce,  Admiral's 505 

"      Allemande  or  German 505 

"      American 505 

"      anchovy 505 

"             "           and  caper 505 

"             "          butter 506 

asparagus 506 

Aurora 506 

Bearnaise : 506 

bechamel 506 

"             brown 507 

Beyrout 507 

Bigarade 507 

blanquette 507 

Bordelaise .____  508 

Bourgeoise 508 

Brittany 508 

brown 5°8 

butter,  black 508 

"         brown 509 

"         drawn 509 

"         with  parsley 509 

caper,  for  boiled  mutton 509 

"      for  fish 509 

cardinal 509 

celery 509 

"      for  boiled  fowls 510 

"      for  game 510 

champagne 510 

Chateaubriand 510 

chestnut,  for  turkey 510 

chicken  liver 511 

Chili 511 

chives 511 

Claremont 511 

Colbert 511 

crab 511 

Crapaudine 512 

crayfish 512 

cream 512 

"      for  venison <;i2 


PAGE. 

Sauce,  cream,  with  vinegar  ________________  512 

"      currant,  red  _________________________  512 

jelly  ----------------  .......  _  513 

currant  jelly,  red  for  game  ___________  513 

"      curry  ------------------------------  513 

"      deviled  _____________________________  513 

"      Diplomatic  __________________________  513 

"      Duchess  ____________________________  513 

"      Dutch  or  Hollandaise  ________________  514 

"      D'Uxelles_._  .....  __________________  514 

"      East  Indian  _____________________  ____  514 


"     for  fowl  ________________________  514 

financiere  __________________________  515 

"  for  fish  ___________  _________  515 

"  "   game  __________________  515 

fine  herbs  ___________________________  515 

Flemish  ____________________________  515 

for  crabs  _____________________  !  _______  516 

goose  ___________________________  516 

hare  or  rabbit  roasted  ____________  516 

loin  of  veal  ______________________  516 

roasted  meats  ___________________  516 

salmon,  cold  _____________________  516 

suckling  pig  -----------  ......  ----  517 

French  ________  _____________________  517 

fricassee  ____  -----------------------  517 

game,  chaudfroid  ____________________  517 

garlic  _______________________________  517 

Geneva  ----------------------------  517 

gherkin  _____________________________  518 

giblet  ----------------  ......  .  .....  ...  518 

Godard  ----------------------------  .  518 

gooseberry  ____________________  _____  518 

green  ------------  ----  .....  ---------  519 

half  glaze  ____________________________  519 

ham  ________________________________  519 

Hanover.-  .....  _____________________  519 

Hollandaise  or  Dutch  _______________  514 

horse-radish  __________________  ______  519 

Italian  ______________________________  520 

jardiniere  ___________________________  520 

kidney  _____________________________  520 

lemon  for  boiled  fowls  _______________  520 

"        "    fish  ______________________  521 

lobster  ______________________________  521 

Madeira  ______________________________  521 

Maintenon  __________________________  521 

maitre  d'hotel  _______________________  521 

marshal's  ___________________________  521 

matelote  ____________  ________________  522 

mayonnaise  ________________________  522 

Milanese  ___________________________  522 

mint  -.._  ___________________________  522 

Montglas  ___________________________  523 

mushroom  --------------------------  523 

"  brown  ____________________  523 

"          white  ____________________  522 

muskateer  __________________________  523 

mussel  ______________________________  523 

"       mustard  .....  _________________  524 

"      piquant  _________________  ------  524 

Neapolitan  _________________________  524 

nonpareil  __________________________  524 

Normandy  ____________  _______________  524 

olive.  ................  ______________  52S 

onion  ______________________________  525 


902 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Sauce,  onion,  for  boiled  fowl... 525 

"           "      with  vinegar 525 

"      oyster .- 525 

"            "      for  boiled  poultry 526 

"      oyster  plant 526 

"      Palestine  bourgeoise 526 

"      papillote 526 

"      parsley  and  butter 526 

"            "           "     lemon 527 

"      Perigueux f__  527 

"      piquant 527 

'            "         red  (Spanish) 527 

"      poivrade 528 

"      Polish 528 

"      Pompadour 528 

"      Portuguese 528 

"      port  wine 528 

"      poulette 529 

il      Princess 529 

"      provincial 529 

Prussian 529 

Queen's 529 

ravigote 530 

regency 530 

remoulade 530 

Robert 531 

royal 531 

salmis 531 

shallot 531 

shrimp 531 

Sicilian 532 

sorrel 532 

Soubise 532 

Spanish  (Espagnole)  ._ , 532 

supreme 533 

tarragon- 533 

tartare 533 

tomato 533 

Toulouse 533 

truffle 534 

Valois 534 

Veloute 534 

Venetian -  534 

Victoria 534 

Villeroy 535 

vinaigrette 535 

walnut 535 

white 535 

wine  for  fish 535 

woodcock,  liver 536 

yellow 536 

Sweet  sauces,  apple 537 

"            arrowroot 537 

apricot 537 

"             brandy  butter 537 

"            caramel 537 

"             Chaudeau 538 

"             cranberry 5,38 

cream  burnt 538 

cherry 538 

chocolate 538 

cinnamon 539 

currant  jelly, black 539 

"           "       red 539 

diplomatic.. 539 

English 539 

fruit 539 


PAGE. 

Sweet  sauces,  English  fruit  for  batter  pudding  540 

German 540 

ginger 540 

golden 540 

hard 540 

kirsch 541 

lemon  butter 541 

lemon  for  puddings 541 

Madeira  sweet 541 

marmalade 541 

plum  pudding 542 

prune 542 

raspberry 542 

"  butter 542 

Sabayon 542 

"  with  Madeira 543 

sweet 543 

Swiss 543 

transparent 543 

vanilla 543 

"  cream ._ 543 

"  yellow  for  puddings 544 

Side  Dishes. 

Anchovy  tartines 125 

Bones,  deviled 125 

"       marrow 125 

Bouchees,  beef  palates 125 

"            queen  style 125 

"            sardines 126 

Canapes ..  126 

"         artichoke  bottoms  for 126 

caviar 126 

cheese 126 

crab 127 

egg 127 

eggs  and  caviar 127 

lobster 127 

Lorenzo 128 

Madison 128 

olive  and  anchovy 128 

olive  and  caper 129 

oyster 129 

sardines 129 

smoked  salmon 129 

"         tricolor 129 

Caviar,  on  toast 130 

"       with  eggs 130 

Celery,  curling 130 

"       frizzled 130 

"       serving  in  a  glass 131 

Olive  custards 131 

Olives,  stuffed  with  anchovies 131 

"             "           "      chestnuts 131 

Onions,  dressed  raw 132 

Patties 332 

"       beef  marrow 132 

"       Dauphine 132 

"       Dresden 133 

"       financiere 133 

11       Fontange 134 

"       lent 134 

"       vol-au-vent 134 

Salad,  cheese 134 

"      cucumber 135 

Sandwiches,  Aberdeen 135 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Sandwiches,  Adelaide 135 

anchovy 135 

beef  tongue 136 

cheese 136 

"       Roquefort 136 

chicken  and  ham   ... 136 

goose 136 

"      fat  liver 137 

pickle .  ... 137 

sardine 137 

sausage  (German)...  . 137 

savory 137 

shrimp 138 

4             turkey 138 

"             veal." 138 

"             Welsh  rabbit 138 

Sardines  in  eggs 138 

Toasts,  anchovy 139 

"      beef  marrow 139 

"          "    tongue 139 

"      egg  and  anchovy 139 

"      lobster 140 

"      salmon 140 

"      sardines 140 

"              "      and  anchovy 140 

'•      ehrimp 141 


Soups. 


Beef  tea 9 

"     jelly : 10 

Bisque  of  clams 10 

"           crabs ... 10 

"           crayfish 10 

"            lobster 1 n 

"            oysters n 

"            tomatoes n 

Broth,  barley . 12 

"       beef  with  vermicelli 12 

"       chicken 12 

clam-juice 12 

jelly,  Palestine  style 12 

"     with  macaroni 13 

mutton 13 

plain 13 

tapioca 13 

""       thickened  with  eggs 14 

"       veal 14 

"       vegetable 14 

Chowder  catfish 14 

"        clam 14 

"         corn 15 

Consommfe 15 

chicken 15 

Duchess 15 

fish 16 

printanier 16 

royal 16 

with  green  peas 16 

"     pearl  barley 16 

"     quenelles 17 

"     rice  and  cream 17 

Cream  of  barley 17 

"        "cauliflower 17 

"        "celery -  18 

"         "game 18 

"         "  lentils  ._  18 


PAGE. 

Cream  of  lettuce . ; 18 

1         '    lima  beans 19 

'         •    mushrooms 19 

'             potato 19 

'             rice 19 

'            sorrel 19 

'            tapioca 20 

'            tomato ..  20 

Purees,  asparagus .  20 

'         bean,  red 20 

'          cardoons 21 

1          carrot __  21 

'         celery 21 

1         herbs  with  vegetables 21 

'          vegetable 22 

Soups,  American 22 

Andalusian 22 

asparagus _  22 

barley , 23 

bean,  black 23 

•'      white 23 

bonne  femme .  23 

Brunoise 24 

cabbage 24 

carrot 24 

celery _.  24 

"      and  onion 25 

cheese 25 

chicken 25 

Creole  style 25 

Holland  style 25 

Portuguese  style 26 

Queen  style 26 

with  leeks _  26 

chiffonade 26 

clam 26 

clear 27 

"     with  nudels 27 

Colbert 27 

corn  and  tomato 27 

crab 28 

croute-au-pot 28 

Duchess 28 

duck's  giblet 28 

farmer's 29 

fish 29 

Flemish 29 

game 29 

gourmet's 30 

green  pea 30 

herb  with  Parmesan  cheese 30 

hunter's 31 

Italian 31 

Julienne 31 

lamb 32 

lark 32 

leek 32 

lettuce 32 

macaroni 33 

macedoine  — . 33 

Milanese .-  33 

mullagatawny 33 

mussel — . 34 

Neapolitan 34 

noodle  -_. 34 

okra 35 

onion — 35 


904 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Soups, onion,  Spanish. 35 

"        ox-tail -.^ 35 

"        oyster... 36 

"         Parisian 36 

"         Parmesan  cheese  quenelle 36 

"         pea 36 

"         peasant 37 

"         Pomeranian ..  37 

"        potato .— _: 37 

"         Pot-au-feu,beef.- 37 

«             "       "         French 38 

"         Princess 38 

Quenelle 38 

rice-and-pea 39 

"       tomato 39 

Russian,  Julienne 39 

sago 40 

sanitary 40 

Solferino --  40 

sorrel 40 

Soubise 40 

Spanish,  Parisian  style 41 

tapioca,  with  tomatoes 41 

terrapin 41 

"         mock 42 

tomato 42 

tnrnip  and  rice .....  42 

turtle,  from  dried  turtle 42 

"        mock,  French  style 43 

"        preserved,  green 43 

"         stock 43 

vegetable 44 

vermicelli 44 

"         Queen  style 45 

"         with  tomato  puree 45 

white 45 

"         Windsor 45 

"         wine 46 

"         with  noques . 46 

"        without  meat  (lean) 46 

Stocks. 

(See  also  SAUCES.) 

Game  fumet 491 

Glaze  for  cold  fowls 491 

"  "  hams  and  tongues 491 

"  "  partridges  or  woodcocks 491 

"  "  turkeys 491 

Half  glaze  (demi  glaze) 492 

"  "  yellow,  for  cakes 492 

Jelly,  for  cold  dishes 492 

"  savory,  as  mayonnaise 492 

Marinade 492 

"  for  beef 493 

"  for  fish 493 

"  for  game 493 

Mirepoix 493 

Stock 493 

"  crayfish 494 

"  dark 494 

"  first 495 

"  French,  clear 495 

"  game 495 

"  general 495 

"  gravy 496 

"  mixed 496 


PAGE. 

Stock,  second 496 

"       veal   or  veal  blond 496 

Veal. 

Attereaux  of  veal  and  ham 228 

Veal,  blanquette  and  ham 228 

"            "          with  mushrooms  in  croustade  228 

"             "           with  noodles 228 

"             "           with  peas 228 

"     Boudins 229 

Calf's  brains,  croquettes 229 

"             "       in  matelote 229 

"             "       in  scallop  shells 229 

"            "       poulette  style 230 

"             "       withblackorbrownbutter_.-_  230 

Veal,  breast,  braised,  Milanese 230 

"          "         poulette 230 

"          "         roasted 231 

"     Brisotin      ., 231 

"           "         Nantaise 231 

"     broiled,  Venetian  style 231 

"     cannelon  of 231 

"     chops,  broiled 232 

"         "        fried 232 

"     chump,  Bourgeoise 232 

"          roasted 233 

collops ...  233 

"         provincial 233 

"         with  stuffed  peppers 233 

cream  of 233 

croquettes . 233 

curried,  Indian  style 234 

cushion,  Bordelaise 234 

"         Duchess..' 234 

cutlets 235 

"         baked,  with  sweet  herbs 235 

"         braised,  larded,  with  string  beans  235 

"         broiled 235 

«'                "       with  colbert  sauce 236 

"         broiled  with  tomato  sauce 236 

"         curried ...  236 

"         Dauphin 236 

"         financiere 236 

"        forcemeat 237 

"         fried  with  tomatoes 237 

"         in  papers 237 

"         in  surprise 238 

"         Lyonese 238 

Maintenon 238 

Marechal 238 

Milanese 239 

Perigueux 239 

provincial 239 

sauted         240 

Spanish  stvle 240 

St.  Cloud.l 240 

Calf's  ears,  financiere 240 

"          "      fried  with  tomato  sauce 241 

"       feet  as  mock  terrapin 241 

"         "     boiled --.  241 

"         "     fricassee 241 

"       fritters 241 

"       grilled 242 

"      stewed 242 

"       with  piquant  sauce 242 

"      with  poulette  sauce 242 


INDEX. 


905 


PAGE. 

Veal  fillet,  braised _ ..-  242 

"     roasted  with  fine  herbs 242 

"     with  brain  fritters 243 

fricadelles 243 

fricandeau 243 

"  with  puree  of  sorrel 244 

grenadine,  chipolata 244 

"  "  with  puree  of  green  peas —  244 

"     ham 245 

"     haricot 245 

"     hashed 245 

Calf's  head,  boiled 245 

"         "          "         with  vinaigrette  sauce  ...  246 

«         "         braised 246 

"         "         financiere 246 

«         "        hashed 246 

«         "        in  tortue 247 

•<         "        royal  style 247 

"         «        stewed 247 

Veal  in  the  saucepan 248 

"     Italian  style 248 

"     kernel,  braised,  with  bechamel  sauce  ..  248 

"        "         in  ballotines 249 

"         "        Jardiniere 249 

"         "        sauted 250 

"     kidney,  broiled  maitre  d'hotel 250 

"        fried 250 

"         fritter 250 

knuckle,  braised 251 

leg  baked  with  cream  sauce 251 

"    in  surprise 251 

Calf's  liver 252 

"         "     and  bacon  in  paper  cases 252 

braised 252 

Brittany  style 253 

broiled'with  bacon 253 

curried 253 

French  style ---  253 

Milanese  style 253 

minced 254 

stewed  Bourgeoise 254 

Veal  loaf 254 

"      loin  braised 255 

"         "     farmer's  style 255 

"         "     roasted 255 

"     minced,  Turkish  style 255 

"          "         with  macaroni 256 

»  "  "     mushrooms  and  cream —  256 

"     Mlreton ...   256 

"     Moutglas  with  croutons 256 

"     neck  braised  with  truffles 257 

•'         "     St.  Clair 257 

"     patties --         -- ------  257 

"     paupiettes 257 

"     pie,  French  style 258 

"       "     kidney 258 

"       "     with  oysters 258 

quenelles 258 

rissoles   259 

rolled 259 

round,  roasted 259 

sausages 259 

scalloped 260 

shoulder,  roasted 260 

spiced 260 

steak,  broiled, 260 

stewed-.  260 


PAGE. 

Veal,  stewed,  Bourgeoise 261 

"                  breast 261 

"                     "      Nantaise 261 

"                       "      with  turnips 261 

"                  fillet .  262 

"                   kernel 262 

"                   knuckle 262 

"                   loin 263 

"                   Marengo 263 

"                   neck 263 

"                  provincial 264 

"                  Solferine 264 

"                   with  oyster  plant 264 

Calf's  sweetbreads  aiguillettes 264 

attereaux 265 

braised 265 

"       Montglas 265 

"       Pompadour 266 

broiled  colbert 266 

"       maitre  d'hotel 266 

collops  with  green  peas-._  266 

cream -  266 

cromeskies 266 

croquettes,  royal 267 

curried 267 

cutlets 267 

English  style 267 

financiere 268 

fricandeau 268 

fried  with  Perigueux  sauce  268 

in  cases 269 

in  shells 269 

in  white  sauce 269 

larded 269 

Montebello 270 

Parisian  style 270 

patties  and  mushrooms —  270 

pie,  financiere 271 

Piedmontese 271 

rissoles 271 

scalloped,  Richelieu 272 

stewed,  Catalane ^  272 

Timbale 272 

toulouse 273 

vol-au-vent  financiere 273 

Waldorf 274 

"              "            with  black  butter  ..   274 

"              "                "     mushrooms 274 

"     tendons,  curried 274 

"    timbales 274 

Calf's  tongue  and  brains  stewed 275 

"            "       with  tomato  sauce -  275 


Vegetables. 


Vegetables 434 

Artichokes,  Barigoule 435 

boiled,  plain 435 

ptM-e"e  of 436 

raw 436 

bottoms,  stuffed 436 

Asparagus,  boiled 436 

croustade 436 

Pompadour 437 

with  cream 437 

tops,  with  cream 437 


906 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Beans,  black,  boiled 437 

"         Lima,  boiled 437 

"             "       sauted 438 

"         string,  boiled 438 

«             "         Bretonne 438 

"             "         English  style 438 

"             «'         sauted  in  butter 438 

"             "         with  cream 438 

"             "         with  gravy 439 

"             "         with  parsley  and  butter 439 

"         white,  and  boiled  pork 439 

"             "       and  cream 439 

"            "       stewed 439 

Beet-roots,  baked 440 

"           preparation  for  the  table 440 

"           sauted  in  butter 440 

"           with  cream 440 

Brussels  sprouts,  boiled 440 

'•              "         maitre  d'hotel 44° 

"              "        sauted 441 

"              "            "       with  cream 441 

Cabbage  and  cream 441 

"        boiled 441 

"        stuffed 441 

"         with  cream 442 

"       red,  pickled,  with  oysters  ._, 442 

"       stewed 442 

Cardoons,  baked,  with  breadcrumbs 442 

"           Spanish  style 442 

"           with  beef  marrow 443 

"           with  cheese 443 

"           with  veloute  sauce ...  443 

Carrot  fritters 444 

"         housekeeper's  style 444 

"         maitre  d'hotel 444 

"         mashed 444 

"         poulette  style 444 

'•         stewed  in  sugar  and  cream 444 

"         withfineherbs 445 

Cauliflower,  boiled 445 

"                "     American  style 446 

fritters 446 

gratinated 446 

in  mayonnaise 446 

mashed 446 

stewed 447 

with  cream  sauce 447 

with  Parmesan  cheese 447 

Celery,  boiled 447 

"         braised 448 

"         fried  .-_ - 448 

"        stewed .-  448 

"         with  marrow 448 

Cepes  in  shells 448 

Chestnuts,  boiled  as  a  vegetable 449 

Corn,  boiled 449 

"     cakes 449 

"    fritters 449 

"    grated 45° 

"     mashed 45° 

"     roasted 45° 

"     stewed  with  cream 450 

Cucumbers  as  cardoons 450 

"            bechamel 451 

"             French  style 451 

"             fried 451 

"             stewed-- -. - --  451 


PAGE, 

Eggplant,  boiled 451 

"       with  Parmesan  cheese 452 

broiled 452 

fried 452 

"     with  Parmesan  cheese .._  452 

fritters 453 

Lyonese 453 

mashed 453 

poulette  style 453 

stewed  ._ ... 453 

"       with  onions 454 

'          stuffed 454 

Endive,  stewed  with  cream  sauce 454 

Green  peas,  ancient  style 455 

"          boiled .  455 

"  Bourgeoise .  455 

"  buttered •,   .  455 

41  English  style 455 

"  peasant  style 456 

"  puree  of 456 

"  stewed  with  bacon 456 

"  stewed  with  Spanish  sauce 456 

Green  peppers,  stuffed  and  baked 457 

Leeks,  baked 457 

"      puree  of 457 

Lentils  and  bacon 457 

"        curry 458 

"        with  onions 458 

Lettuces,  baked  and  stuffed 458 

"        braised 458 

"         stewed 459 

"         stuffed,  braised 459 

Mushrooms,  baked  in  cups 459 

"  baked,  stuffed 459 

boiled  in  cream 460 

Bordelaise .  460 

broiled  on  toast . 460 

croustades  of 460 

deviled 460 

fricassee  of -__  461 

fried  on  toast 461 

in  cases 461 

patties 461 

"  pie 461 

"  puree    462 

"  .sauted 462 

"  "       Bordelaise 462 

"  stewed 462 

"  "        stems 462 

"  "         with  cream . 463 

"  under  glass  with  cream 463 

Okras,  sauted  Creole  style 463 

Onions,  baked 463 

"         boiled  with  cream 463 

fried 464 

glazed 464 

mashed,  Brittany  style 464 

"         Soubise  style ._  464 

steamed,  stuffed 464 

stewed 465 

"       stuffed 465 

Onions  Spanish,  baked,  stuffed 465 

"  "        boiled 465, 

"  "        fried 465 

Oyster-plant,  boiled ¥ 466 

"         "  fried -  466 

"         "  poulette 466 


INDEX. 


907 


PAGE. 

Oyster-plant,  sauted 466 

Parsnips,  baked 466 

"        boiled 467 

"        broiled ._  467 

"        fried 467 

"        fritters 467 

"         mashed 467 

Potatoes  and  onions  sauted .  467 

"         and  parsley 468 

"         baked 468 

"             "       with  breadcrumbs 468 

"        balls _ 468 

"        Barigoule 468 

"         boiled 469 

"     new 469 

borders 469 

broiled : 469 

browned 469 

cake 470 

casserole  of 470 

cheesecakes 470 

chip 470 

creamed 471 

croquettes 471 

croustade 471 

curried 471 

Duchess 472' 

for  entrees 472 

fried 472 

gastronomical 472 

Genevoise  style 472 

glazed _  473 

in  cases 473 

in  the  oven 473 

Julienne  style 473 

Loulou 473 

Lyonese 474 

maitre  d'hotel 474 

mashed 474 

nests 474 

provincial 475 

quenelles 475 

rissoles 475 

Sarah 475 

sauted 475 

stewed 476 

straws 476 

surprise 476 

Waldorf _.  476 

sweet,  broiled 476 

"      roasted 477 

"      scuffled 477 

"      waffles 477 

Pumpkin  fritters 477 

"         mashed « 477 

"        stewed 477 

Sorrel,  lean . 478 


PAGE. 

Sorrel,  purde  with  hard-boiled  eggs 478 

"      stewed 478 

Sourcrout 478 

"        boiled 479 

*        with  apples 479 

"            "     goose,  Roumanian 479 

"            "     pork  and  sausages 479 

Spinach 479 

"       a  la  mode 480 

"       croustades 480 

"       minced * 480 

"       with  cream 480 

Squash,  boiled 481 

"       mashed 481 

"       stewed . —  481 

Succotash 481 

Sweet  peppers,  sauted 481 

Tomatoes,  Andalusian  style 482 

"            and  eggs 482 

"            baked _ 482 

"            Bock  style 482 

"            broiled 482 

"            deviled _ 482 

"            fried 483 

"            Marseilles  style 483 

u            on  toast... 483 

"            pilau 483 

"            stewed 484 

"                "        sweet- 484 

"            stuffed __ 484 

"            with  sago 484 

"            with  spaghetti r 484 

Turnips,  glazed 485 

"        in  batter 485 

"        mashed 485 

'•        stewed,  with  sugar 485 

"        stuffed 485 

"        with  cream 486 

Turnip  tops - — —  486 

«     boiled _.  486 

"     mashed 486 

Tr   ffles -  486 

baked 487 

boiled 487 

broiled 487 

cooked  in  champagne 487 

in  cases 487 

in  croustades 488 

Italian  style 488 

stewed,  on  crust 489 

stuffed 489 

timbale  of 489 

Vegetable  macedoine 489 

"          puree _ 489 

Watercress,  German  mode . — . —  490 

«•         stewed 490 


LIBRARY  USE 


40  Giannini  Hall  -  Tel.  No.  642-4493 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  BEFORE  CLOSING  TIME 
ON  LAST  DATE  STAMPED  BELOW 

SEP  13  1974 

LD62-10m-4,'72                                 General  Library 
(Q1636slO)9412  —  A-32                  University  of  California 
Berkeley 

J 


